Your own steam room in the house with your own hands. Sauna at home in the bathroom: professional advice

Sometimes you really want to leave the hustle and bustle of the city and go to the country. Silence, walks, doing your favorite things - what could be better! If comfort is provided at the dacha, you want to come again and again. One of the comfortable living conditions at the dacha is a bathhouse.

Construction can, of course, be entrusted to professional builders. However, to build and improve a bathhouse on summer cottage quite capable on my own. This eliminates additional expenses and allows you to carry out finishing and landscaping in full accordance with your desires and preferences. Therefore, this task is not easy, but quite within the capabilities of a novice builder. A self-built bathhouse will delight the owners even more. So, how to build a bathhouse yourself?

Firstly, as with any construction, you first need to decide on the project and the materials from which the bathhouse will be built. The choice of the main material for construction depends on the geographical location and operating conditions, as well as on one’s own capabilities.

Bathhouses are made of brick, aerated concrete and other stone materials; some prefer frame bathhouses, however, many novice builders prefer to build a bathhouse from wood. This lightweight and durable material does not require a serious and expensive foundation, but has excellent characteristics. With proper care, operating the bathhouse will not cause much trouble.

And of course, preference should be given to timber - a bathhouse made of this material will retain all the advantages of a wooden structure and eliminate the problems and additional costs that may arise when building walls from logs. Building walls from timber is similar to working with a construction set - it can have different geometric dimensions and cross-sections (rectangle, square, semicircular), and also, in the case of profiled timber, there are grooves for fastening. Building from timber is easy and convenient - what could be better for a novice builder!

How to choose a place to build a bathhouse.

One of the most important points- choosing the location of the future building. The location must satisfy both existing legislation and ease of use. Basic recommendations that can help you make your choice:

• if there is a body of water nearby, you should not place the bathhouse too close to it, as the building will be in danger of flooding;
• it is necessary to decide how the bathhouse will be located relative to the house: a separate building or will it be attached to it, since each option has its own positive and negative sides;
• it is believed that it is better to build a bathhouse in the backyard, in relative privacy;
• It is necessary to provide for mandatory ventilation during construction, as well as to provide for wastewater disposal;
• It is highly not recommended to determine the location next to a nearby road;
• when placing a building, it is necessary to take into account the cardinal directions and the direction of the wind: the best place is the southern part of the site, protected from the wind so that it does not disturb vacationers, it is better to have windows facing west;
• It is desirable that the bathhouse be located at some distance from other buildings, and if it is an extension to the house, it is imperative that during construction it is necessary to comply with fire safety rules, as, indeed, when constructing a separate building;
• when determining the location of the bathhouse and its size, it is necessary to observe the distances established by the rules from the boundaries of the site, so that the neighbors do not experience discomfort in the future and do not make claims to the owner;
• It is recommended to maintain a distance to the water intake (well or borehole) of no more than 20 meters.

At the beginning of construction, it is highly advisable to make a project that should, among other things, determine the optimal area of ​​construction.

It is believed that the estimated area for 1 person should be approximately 5 sq.m. Thus, if the expected number of visitors to the bathhouse is 4 people, its total area should not be less than 20 sq.m.

The minimum composition of the premises is as follows: steam room, washing room, relaxation room and dressing room. It is important to determine the most convenient location of these rooms relative to each other, as well as their geometric dimensions.

First you need to complete several diagrams and drawings:

— general plan of the building;
— drawings of each room separately;
— diagram of the foundation;
- roofing diagram;
- plan for fastening and laying out timber;
— plan for the installation of the floor and ceiling of the bathhouse;
— installation diagram of the furnace, taking into account its design features.

All the necessary drawings can be completed independently, and can also be found in many open sources. As a rule, bathhouses made of timber have similar designs and you can easily choose the most suitable one. If you wish and have the necessary budget, you can entrust the design to a professional architect or builder.

Selection of building materials.

Below is a list of materials that will be needed to build a bathhouse from timber:

a) timber 150x150 mm, although it is possible to use timber with a cross-section of 100 mm or 200 mm;

b) batten(edged board 150x50 mm 4 meters long is perfect);

c) hardwood boards for ceiling construction (usually lining with a width of 100 mm and a thickness of 20 mm or more is used);

d) material for wall decoration (as a rule, the same lining is used);

e) material for vapor barrier (an excellent option would be to use a vapor barrier film);

e) waterproofing (it is advisable to use penofol, although polyethylene film is suitable);

g) ceiling insulation (mineral wool materials are a good option);

h) sheet asbestos for insulating wooden structures from temperature influences, including for walls near the stove and elements located next to the chimney;

i) cement, sand and crushed stone for foundation construction (recommendation - cement should be purchased before starting construction);

j) roofing material for the roof, which can be selected based on personal preferences and the main thing is that it fits seamlessly into the surrounding roofs of other buildings;

l) insulation for the inter-crown space (it is better to use jute, although moss or tow are perfect).

The best time to start construction is spring, since after the completion of the main construction work it is necessary for the timber to dry and shrink. This requires at least 6 months.

Do-it-yourself sauna - step-by-step instructions.

Step I – preparing the area for construction.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to clear the site - remove bushes, stumps, remove debris and everything that will interfere with the foundation work.

Step II - building the foundation.

It is best to build a bathhouse made of timber on a columnar foundation, which is inexpensive and excellent for the construction of small wooden and frame buildings.

When constructing it, you first need to dig the estimated number of holes for installing supports. Their number is calculated as follows: supports must be installed in the corners of the building and at the intersections of walls, as well as with a certain step along their perimeter.

The pitch is selected taking into account the type of soil and the estimated total weight of the structure. The depth of the holes should be 1-1.5 meters, although it may vary depending on the depth of soil freezing in a given area. To perform this type of foundation, in addition to the materials listed above, you will need asbestos-cement pipes and fittings.

At the bottom of the pit it is necessary to pour a mixture of sand and crushed stone 10-15 cm thick. Then install an asbestos-cement pipe of the required length into it, strictly vertically, and secure it. Several reinforcement bars should be placed inside the pipe.

After this, pour concrete solution into the pipe and into the free space between the walls of the pit and the pipe.

After pouring the solution, you need to wait a few days, then lay a half-brick thick wall between the pillars.

Step III – erection of walls and arrangement of the roof.

The traditional material for the construction of bathhouse walls is timber measuring 150x150 mm. Before laying the first crown, it is imperative to put waterproofing on the foundation. The lower part of the crown must be treated with an antiseptic. Most often, the timber is laid out using the “paw” method.

The first crown must be carefully aligned according to geometric parameters - all angles must be exactly 90 degrees. After the first crown is erected, they begin laying the beams for the set of walls. When laying out the walls, you need to make openings for future doors and windows and be sure to insulate each row with the selected thermal insulation material.

To connect the crowns, dowels are used - metal or wooden pins.

After the walls are removed, the roofing is installed. Depending on the chosen roof shape, it is necessary to fix the rafters, which are attached to the upper crown with brackets.

When installing a single-pitched sloping roof, the rafters are secured either by two external or one external and one internal supports. When erecting a gable roof, it is necessary to securely support the rafters from below to the wall, and connect them together from above to form a roof ridge.

Sheathing boards are attached to the fixed rafters, then hydro- and vapor barriers and insulation are laid on them.

The roof installation is completed by installing the selected roofing material.

Step IV - interior finishing work.

Interior decoration must begin with the installation of communications - sewerage, water supply, electricity. You should worry about sewerage even when designing and constructing the foundation.

It is necessary to dig a drainage well next to the future bathhouse, which includes a sewer pipe buried in the ground with a slope to remove wastewater from the washing compartment.

After the sewerage installation is completed, a finishing floor is made, which is made of wood or concrete. Concrete floors are more durable and are most often faced with tiles or porcelain stoneware.

If a wooden floor is chosen for interior decoration, it is usually made to leak. To do this, floor boards are nailed to the installed joists with a small gap, or a small drain hole is installed in the floor, covered with a grate.

In this case, the floor must be made with a slight slope towards the drain. Then the water that gets into the drain will be through sewer pipe discharged into a drainage well.

After installing the sewer system, it is necessary to perform insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier of the walls and ceiling using appropriate materials, install electricity and water supply.

After installing windows and doors, then finish the room using, for example, lining.

After finishing is completed, you need to install the necessary electrical appliances.

Step V - installation of the stove and shelves.

There are a great many options for placing shelves; you just need to follow the recommended dimensions and the fact that they should be made of hardwood. The installation principle is simple - a stable frame is mounted, usually made of timber, and boards are attached to it.

The stove must be installed in full compliance with fire safety requirements. Wooden structures must be insulated from the high temperatures of the operating stove and chimney. If the furnace is heavy, it must be installed on a specially equipped foundation. This is determined on a case-by-case basis depending on the oven selected.

The stove is selected depending on the preferences of the owner. This can be a traditional wood-burning heater, a metal wood-burning or electric stove; sometimes it is advisable to choose a gas stove for a sauna.

Step VI - choosing accessories

There are many accessories for a bath.

The main ones are:

— brooms (oak, birch and others);
- containers (buckets, basins);
- a wooden ladle for adding water;
— wooden gratings for the floor and much more.

Can add additional personality interior decoration premises, which remains at the discretion of the owner - here, depending on desires and financial capabilities, you can give free rein to your imagination.

It should be added that all of the listed accessories can be made independently. The bathhouse is a great place to spend time in a pleasant, friendly company or with your family. It will be much more pleasant to realize that all this was done with your own hands, including useful and necessary equipment: for example, hangers, lamps or ventilation grilles.

Enjoy Your Bath!

Video about building a bathhouse yourself.

When designing baths, you should take into account many factors - from location to area. Financial opportunities also play a significant role; if the bathhouse is planned primarily as a place for family recreation, then it is not necessary to build a palace.

For full functioning, 2-3 rooms are enough - a dressing room, a steam room and a washing room. The last two rooms are sometimes combined into one to save space.

Layout of a small bathhouse

In an effort to reduce the space occupied by a bathhouse, you should not be too zealous - there are certain standards. So, two people should fit freely in the steam room, taking into account the fact that they use brooms. If it is very crowded, then you will hardly be able to enjoy going to the bathhouse.

Features of the layout of a bathhouse with a small area

Small log sauna

The layout of a small bathhouse begins with the choice of material for its construction - it can be a log, timber, brick or foam blocks. Wooden construction is the most preferable, as it allows you to breathe easily and freely, and naturally maintains a balance between humidity and high air temperature.

What you should especially pay attention to:

• Foundation - the weight of the structure does not require the construction of a powerful foundation; the best option is a strip or support-pile foundation. There will be no need to carry out significant excavation work for them;
• The convenient arrangement of the rooms inside will facilitate both the process of visiting the bathhouse and the preparation for it;
• It is advisable to install the stove in the dressing room so that it can be lit without interfering with others going into the steam room or washing room. The firebox must be protected from the possibility of accidental fire;
• An important point is ventilation. It is carried out through windows and doors. It is better to give preference to wooden window structures - this is an environmentally friendly material that emits pleasant aroma. In addition, it is a source of natural air exchange;
• Small baths are built according to the same rules as their large-scale counterparts - the shelves are located along a blank wall, the door threshold is high, and the frame is low. This is important so that less steam comes out when opening;
• There should be no locks, and all doors in the bathhouse open outward.

The useful area of ​​the bathhouse cannot be less than 10 square meters. meters, otherwise it will be impossible to steam in it and wash comfortably.

Convenient bath layout for two people

Bathhouse project of 3 rooms

It is not always possible to build a spacious bathhouse and you have to be content with modest dimensions. But even if it is not possible for two people to be in the steam room at the same time, then the presence of a separate washing room will allow the structure to be used for its intended purpose.

Proper design of the interior space makes it functional:

• Dressing room - area will be 2.7 square meters. meters. It can be used both as a locker room and as a rest room. But its main purpose is to prevent the penetration of cold air;
• The plan of a small bathhouse necessarily includes a washing area - an area of ​​1.7 square meters. meters. There are two options - install a shower stall or equip a simple shower. The second is to place stools and basins, and pour water into them from a tank located behind the stove. With such a volume, you can fit everything you need in it. It will be heated by a stove chimney;
• And the most important room is the steam room. Its area is 1.14 square meters. meters. The heater is placed in the corner, so it will give off some of the heat to the washing area. It will not be possible to place a lounger, so you will have to steam on a stool or bench.

Note! If a residential building does not have a bath or shower, then a small bathhouse is an excellent solution. She will combine business with pleasure.

Project of a small bathhouse of two rooms

Small frame bathhouse made of timber

If you don’t want to huddle in tiny rooms, then combining a steam room and a washing room can get a good result. The external size of the bathhouse can be 3.6 * 2 meters - this is quite enough.

How to build small sauna with your own hands on a plot of land, this is only possible if you have a carefully thought-out project:

• Dressing room with a total area of ​​2.4 sq. meters - here you can already turn around. The dimensions allow you to place a tiny table where you can enjoy drinking tea. The role of the locker room remains;
• The steam room and washing room are combined to create a room of 3 square meters. meters. The shower will have to be sacrificed, but now there will be a full-fledged sun lounger and a bench for washing. Basins with water are placed on it. Excess moisture from the shower is not needed, it will make the air heavier and make breathing difficult.

To ensure that the benefits of bathing procedures in this project are not reduced, the following instructions must be followed:

• Install a more powerful stove that can heat two rooms at once;
• Do not spray water around the steam room - this will increase the humidity;
• Bathing procedures begin in the steam room, and only then begin washing.

Photo of a small bathhouse on the lake shore

In both layout options, the door should open outward, and the building itself should be installed no less than 5-10 meters from the permanent house. These are mandatory fire safety requirements. The ceilings in the bathhouse should not be more than 2.2 meters, and the door frame should not be more than 1.5 meters. Otherwise, it will not retain heat.

The stove can be any - electric, wood or gas. But the latter is not very desirable. Electric is easy to install and makes it easier to control the temperature level.

But the best one is wood-burning. It creates a unique spirit and aroma of the bathhouse.

Price wood stove not that high

A bathhouse is the dream of almost every owner suburban area. But the size of the plot does not always allow for the construction of a large and spacious structure, and then you have to be content with the small. But this does not make the bathhouse any less functional.

With the right approach to planning, it turns out useful and convenient. The video in this article will tell you in more detail about small bathhouses and their advantages.

Small bathhouse: how to build it yourself, layout, video instructions, plan, photo and price

How to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands

The primary task facing every owner suburban area- this is the construction of a small bathhouse located not far from the country house. Our article will talk about how to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands, which would fit perfectly into the space of a small household plot.

The starting material used for the construction of such a structure is most often traditional wood beams. For those wishing to deviate from established traditions, the following common Construction Materials, like brick, silicate and foam blocks or natural (artificial) stone.

Structural features

The bathhouse, measuring 3x3 m, is a small one-story building that can accommodate 2-3 people at a time. His effective area usually does not exceed 8‒8.5 m² and is distributed as follows:

Note that the dressing room in such a bathhouse is also used as a relaxation room. Despite the limited size of the room, it is usually possible to fit a small table and 2-3 benches. The table can be made folding, which allows you to free up as much space in the dressing room as possible while lighting the stove and cleaning the room.

When choosing the design of a bathhouse building, one should not exclude from consideration the option of a small-sized structure that is simply attached to the main residential building.

What to build a bathhouse from?

The simplest and cheapest manufacturing method wooden bath made of timber is considered to be the use of a standard frame structure installed on a lightweight strip-type foundation.

A bathhouse made from traditional “round timber” also looks good, which is well-sanded and selected according to suitable diameter logs Forest moss is usually used as insulation in these structures, laid between the individual crowns.

In addition to timber and round timber, profiled or laminated timber can be used to construct a bathhouse. In any case, the material you choose must be well dried (that is, subjected to a shrinkage procedure in advance). Thanks to this, you will be able to start using the sauna building immediately after finishing it.

Note! When erecting a structure made of brick or stone, the strip foundation for a bathhouse must be designed for a heavy load.

Work order

The construction of a bathhouse from the material you have chosen is usually carried out in the following order:

Foundation preparation

Basically, the type of foundation is not a whim of the customer, but is selected based on many factors. Often, for the construction of a bathhouse, a pile or columnar foundation is made. In some cases, it may be necessary to make a slab foundation. We will consider only one type of foundation, which is more universal and applicable in most cases.

The strip foundation for a log house made of three-meter timber is made shallow, which is also acceptable when using rounded logs. The procedure for its preparation is as follows:

1. First, a square of appropriate dimensions is marked, after which trenches 10–15 cm wide are dug to a depth exceeding the soil freezing mark.
2. The bottom of the dug trench is covered with a layer of sand about 15 cm thick, which is then spilled with water and thoroughly compacted. After compaction is completed, the bottom of the trench is filled with crushed stone, after which it will be possible to proceed to the preparation of formwork, assembled from ordinary unedged boards.
3. Imported or self-made concrete mixture is poured into the finished formwork, which should include moisture-resistant cement.
4. The foundation is waterproofed using suitable rolled material (roofing felt, for example).

Walling

When assembling a box from 100×100 beams for lower crowns It is advisable to use larch or aspen blanks that have a larger cross-section (150×150 cm, for example). The base frame is attached to the foundation using special plates, the counterpart of which is fixed to the lower beam of the frame.

The construction of the foundation is carried out using one of the well-known methods, which involves the use of the method of joining beams (logs). Given the relative lightness of three-meter beams, the assembly of the frame is most often done manually and without assistants.

To reliably connect the crowns to each other (without gaps), pre-prepared wooden dowels and a special jute seal are used.

Manufacturing of roof, ceiling and floor

When arranging a roof for a 3x3 meter bathhouse, preference is usually given to one of the simplest structures: single-pitch or gable. The optimal angle of inclination of the roof is selected taking into account the brand of material used as a roofing covering (inexpensive roofing felt or slate are most often used for these purposes). You can see a sample of roofing arrangement in the photo located at the end of the article.

At the next stage of work, the ceiling is installed, made in the form of flooring, laid directly on the walls of the building. The floor covering is fixed on special logs placed directly on the foundation.

Interior decoration of the building

Before finishing the bathhouse, the walls and ceiling of the building are reliably insulated; in this case, special attention is paid to the steam room. To finish it, it is advisable to use natural types of insulation material (mineral wool, for example) and then apply a layer of foil to it. Note that the foil in this case is used as a reflector capable of retaining heat inside the steam room.

After installation of the insulation and foil is completed, the walls and ceiling of the room are sheathed with clapboard made from special types of wood (linden or aspen).

As for the dressing room, it is not at all necessary to use expensive materials to decorate it; the walls of this room can simply be impregnated with special waterproof varnishes that perfectly highlight the texture of the wood.

How to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands - building a small sauna

Learn how to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands. The article describes how and from what materials to build such a small bathhouse.

Do-it-yourself small sauna

A small do-it-yourself sauna is a great option when the area near the house or in the yard of the dacha is limited. In addition, with this solution you can significantly save your budget, but as a result you will get a full-fledged vacation spot, which will not only relieve stress after a hard day, but improve your health and have a pleasant time with family and friends.

Examples of projects

Ideally, the bathhouse includes 4 rooms in its design:

You can expand the functionality of some rooms by combining them with each other. At the same time, the comfort of your stay is not lost. Overall size the structure will largely depend on how many people will be inside at the same time.

• 1.20 mx2.50 m. Very compact solution. In this case, the bathhouse consists of only two rooms: a steam room and a dressing room. The dimensions of the first are 1.20 m×1.50 m, the second - 1 m×1.20 m. There is no rest room, but in the dressing room you can easily change clothes. The washing room can be combined with a steam room. This size will be enough for one person.
• 2.50 m×2.50 m. In terms of the number of rooms - the same as the first option. The size of the steam room is 2.50 m×1.50 m, the dressing room is 1 m×2.50 m. At the same time, it will be possible to organize additional space for storing firewood. In such conditions, two people can comfortably fit.
• 3 m×3 m. This option can be planned in different ways. If you want the steam room to accommodate three people, then it can be made 3 m x 1.50 m in size; the washing room can be made separate by placing a shower stall there. The size of this room will be 1 m × 1.50 m. There is also a dressing room of 2 m × 1.5 m. You can combine a washing room and a steam room, then there will be space that can be used as a relaxation room, which will also serve as a dressing room.
• 4 m×3 m. In this case, you can separate 4 m2 for the steam room (for example, 2 m × 2 m). The washing room will occupy 1 m × 1.50 m, leaving 2 m × 3 m for the rest room. In such conditions, four people can comfortably fit. They will be able to be in the steam room at the same time, and also enjoy communication in the waiting room.
• 4 m×4 m. In such an area you can already turn around well. The steam room can be left measuring 2 m × 2 m. A separate dressing room can be made measuring 2 m × 1.50 m. The rest room in this case is 4 m × 2 m (one side will be 2.50 m). The washing room can be combined with a rest room; for this, an electric boiler and a shower stall are installed. They can be placed in one of the corners of the room, which does not take up much space.

These are indicative examples. You can easily vary the size of the premises within accessible limits. You may want to reduce the steam room because... there is no need for 4 people to be there at the same time. At the same time, it will be possible to expand the space of the rest room.

Choosing material

Various materials can be used to build walls. Much will depend on the project you choose, as well as the amount of money planned. For example, you can use ordinary brick. You can read how to build a brick sauna here. The following points will be positive:

• availability;
• ease of delivery;
• relative ease of construction;
• long service life (with proper care - up to 150 years);
• ease of maintenance;
• possibility of combination with the main structure;
• when using new brick there is no need for cladding;
• freedom to choose the form of construction.

The negative aspects include:

• high cost of material;
• the need for good ventilation, because brick has poor vapor conductivity;
• lighting such a bathhouse takes more time than building made of wood;
• high costs for interior decoration.

Along with brick, foam block is often used. This is a more progressive material; it has properties characteristic only of it:

• light weight with large size;
• high laying speed;
• ease of adjustment of block shapes;
• good thermal insulation;
• relatively low price;
• excellent sound insulation;
• environmental friendliness;
• If you follow the recommendations, there will be little glue consumption.

There is also a fly in the ointment:

• uneven pores can be a problem when hanging furniture;
• Shrinkage may occur over several months;
• poor bending resistance.

The most favorite manufacturing method is a rounded log. A lot can be said about its advantages, here are just a few:

• high environmental friendliness;
• nice appearance;
• low heat capacity;
• no need for interior and exterior finishing;
• pleasant internal atmosphere.

The negative side is:

• unprofitable to use in small buildings;
• some complexity of construction;
• high cost of material;
• long shrinkage time.

One of the cheapest and fastest options is the construction of a frame structure. Minimal construction skills will be required for this method. The advantages are:

• no need for a massive foundation;
• availability of materials;
• relatively low cost compared to other options;
• ease of care;
• very fast heating of the steam room with good insulation;
• ease of laying communications;
• seismic resistance;
• no shrinkage.

One of the disadvantages is the need to organize good sound insulation. High level of noise – transmission of various vibrations, which can cause inconvenience. It is also important to ensure good ventilation so that moisture does not accumulate inside, which will lead to the development of fungus and mold.

Strip foundation

In the case where a really small bathhouse is planned, there is no point in sinking the foundation to the level of soil freezing. This will only increase the overall cost of the project. With proper manufacturing and waterproofing, you won’t have to worry about the walls being cold. This type of foundation will be relevant for any of the listed building options.

• The first thing that needs to be done is to clearly define the territory that will be allocated for construction.
• Next, debris is removed. In addition, you will need to remove upper layer soil with grass to make it easier for you to carry out further tasks.
• Using pegs, the boundaries of the future building are marked.
• Special holders are made to make it easier to navigate with excavation. To do this, two pieces of board 50x50 cm (or whatever is at hand) are sharpened on one side and connected using a transverse crossbar from a board 10 cm wide, its length should be about 70 cm. You will need 8 such structures. They are installed two at each corner of the house. Between them two fishing lines are stretched to the width of the future foundation. Be sure to check that all angles correspond to 90°. This way you get clearly defined lines that will be difficult to move even if you hit them.

At the stage of laying the foundation, provision is made for the supply of necessary communications. This could be a water supply and sewer drain for washing water.

Pile foundation

There are several ways to build a foundation. Piles can be bored or driven. In the first case, a well is drilled, formwork is made, reinforcement rods are lowered and the entire space is filled with concrete. In the second option, ready-made concrete, wooden or metal posts with a pointed end are driven in immediately. The most suitable options for a small bath will be screw ones. They consist of a metal base in the form of a pipe and blades that help immerse the supports into the ground. You can purchase them or make them yourself. If you chose the second option, then you need to act like this:

• The first step is to find out to what depth the soil freezes. To do this, you can contact the appropriate service.
• Pipe blanks with a diameter of 110 mm are purchased. The thickness of its wall should be more than 3 mm. The total length should be such that it can be sunk below the freezing level by 50 cm and at the same time so that it is 30-40 cm above the ground surface. Additionally, you can buy blanks for screws. It is also necessary to make a square cap on the pile. It should be 25x25 cm in size and 5-6 mm thick.

In each of the described options, separate supporting elements for the stove should also be provided, especially if you plan to use a heater. This is very important, because its weight can be large, which can lead to damage to the floor and joists.

Construction of brick walls

For a bathhouse, it is better to use red brick, which has undergone heat treatment and has a lower thermal capacity. To calculate the amount of material needed, you need to calculate the area of ​​each wall. To do this, the width is multiplied by the length. Then you need to divide this number by the area of ​​one brick. The area of ​​the masonry joints can be neglected, because you will still need to make a reserve in case of battle or marriage.

The wall can be erected using several methods:

• in two bricks with external insulation.
• with air gaps, they are about 6 cm;
• with a layer of insulation between two rows of bricks.

Work begins with the construction of corners. This is an important process because... It is they who will subsequently ensure the correctness of the entire structure. In order to maintain the vertical level of the future walls, two metal profiles of 5x5 cm and a length equal to the height of the future walls are dug into the corners. They are leveled and secured with jibs. A fishing line is stretched between them to the height of one row. After it is laid, the line is rearranged to the height of the next one. The thickness of the seam should be about 20-25 mm. It should be applied at a distance of no more than a meter so that it does not have time to dry. Additionally, the plane is checked using a bubble level. If the second and third types of masonry are chosen, then it is necessary to ensure a bandage between the two walls. This is achieved by laying two bricks transversely opposite each other at certain intervals. Also, each row should be offset by half a brick to ensure the overall interweaving of the entire plane.

Above the windows or doorways a jumper must be installed. Usually it is reinforced concrete. You can purchase it ready-made or pour it directly on site. It should extend beyond the openings by at least 25 cm. Supports are installed and mounted on them. wooden plank. Two rows of bricks are laid out on edge. Between them there are reinforcement rods, which should also extend 25 cm beyond the opening, and it is better to bend them to intertwine them with the existing masonry. Concrete is poured inside. After complete hardening (usually 10-12 days), the lower supports can be dismantled and the logs removed.

Walls made of foam blocks

The general installation principle will be the same as in the previous case. You should also start with the corners, which must be accurately and clearly set.

In the same way, guides are made from profiled pipes. But there are some nuances:

• In order to achieve the best adhesion, the base row is laid on cement mortar. It is better to make the ratio with sand 1:3. It is very important to maintain a horizontal plane so that all other rows also lie correctly.
• All other rows are fixed with special glue.
• The thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 5 mm. Only in this case will it be possible to achieve ideal thermal insulation.
• Every 3 rows, a metal mesh is placed in the seam, which serves to provide additional rigidity.
• Foam blocks are placed on the edge.
• Lintels over doors and windows are made in the same way as in the case of brickwork.

Log walls

This is exactly the option that comes to mind when it comes to a bathhouse. To make it, you will need to stock up on rounded or profiled logs. It is better to make external walls from this material. Because The structure is small, it is good if the partitions are framed.

After the construction of the walls is completed, primary caulking. During which the hanging insulation is simply driven into the joints. Complete shrinkage of the building can last more than 1.5 years.

Frame walls

After the foundation is erected, an additional foundation is made for such a structure. It is carried out according to the example of the grillage discussed above. For the corner posts we will need exactly the same timber as for the base. In addition, you will need to stock up on edged boards with a length equal to the height of the future walls, a width equal to the width of the grillage and a thickness of 5-10 cm.

• At the base, it is imperative to check the diagonals so that they are the same. It is attached to the concrete foundation using anchor bolts. It is advisable to recess the head. For this purpose, a countersunk groove is made in advance. Waterproofing made of bicrost or roofing felt is laid under the grillage on a concrete foundation.

Erection of the roof

For small buildings, the ideal solution is a pitched roof. It is necessary to plan its production at the design stage. It is very important to be able to raise one wall higher than the other. When this is done, in the case of a wall made of brick and foam block, waterproofing made of bicrost or roofing material is laid on the upper end. Additional beams are mounted on it, which will serve as a Mauerlat. They are attached to the base using anchor bolts or walled-in studs. Beams are laid on top onto which the sheathing will be placed. They can be secured to the Mauerlat using metal corners.

In another option, the walls are made the same. Ceiling beams are laid on the Mauerlat. On one side are installed vertical boards, which will form a pediment, descend from them rafter legs on another wall. At the point where they adjoin the Mauerlat, they are cut to the required angle. They are secured with metal corners. To make it easier to maintain the roof in one plane, the two outermost elements are installed first. A string is stretched between them, which will serve as a level.

The ceiling must be insulated. A vapor barrier is attached to the top of the ceiling crossbars. Thick foil can play this role. Insulation in the form of mineral wool is placed in the space between the beams. Additionally, it is covered with plastic film. WITH inside The filing is made using wooden lining or polished edged boards.

Finish line

An integral part of every sauna is the stove. It can be made independently from sheet material or a large-diameter metal pipe. In another embodiment, it is laid out of brick, but in this case it can take up large space. For small spaces, it is better to use electric options that are purchased ready-made.

A shelf is installed inside the steam room. It's better not to use it conifers wood, because When heated, it may release resin, causing burns. Good stuff for her there will be aspen, larch, linden or oak. If the space is small, a width of 40 cm will be sufficient; it is more convenient when there is a footrest. The fastening material must be flush so as not to burn the skin (it must also be made of stainless material). It is better if the entire structure is assembled on dowels.

For wiring, you must use a double braided cable. It is better if it is non-flammable (usually the marking has the prefix “ng”). Be sure to lay the conductor in the corrugation. There are no switches installed in the steam room itself. The lamps used are waterproof with an IP68 index.

Make sure there is good ventilation. To do this, you can install an adjustable supply valve, as well as anemostats with output to the gable through the roof. This will be enough to ensure that all moisture is removed after taking a steam bath.

As you can see, there are no restrictions on what you can build a small bathhouse from. Choose the option that suits you best.

Small sauna with your own hands - how to build

This article tells you how to build a small sauna. Find out more about preferred materials, sizes and other options.

What and how to build a simple bathhouse in the country?

Washing in a country bathhouse is a pleasure available to everyone. Its construction does not require large financial investments. In a minimal plan, such a structure is erected in a few days.

In this article we will look at the topic of how to build the simplest bathhouse in your country house quickly and inexpensively.

Let's start by studying ready-made options, and discuss the designs of walls, floors, stoves and sewers that are popular among craftsmen.

Design Features

The main conditions for the comfort of any bath are:

• Walls, floor and ceiling well protected from heat loss.
• Reliable insulation of structures from water and steam.
• Compact, quick heating oven.
• Effective sewerage and ventilation.

Examples of country baths

In photo No. 1 we see a simple bathhouse, reminiscent of Diogenes’ barrel. You can only take a steam bath in it. You won't be able to wash yourself here because there is no sewage system in the building. However, if desired, it is not difficult to do. To do this, you need to install a standard shower tray in the corner of the bathhouse and lead the drain pipe into the septic tank.

An important advantage of this design is its low weight, allowing it to be placed on a plank terrace.

The construction of the simplest bathhouse from the container category is shown in photo No. 2.

It consists of one steam room. For washing, the owner needs to attach a canopy with summer shower or supplement the room with sewerage, and the stove with a tank for heating water.

Improvising on the theme of a barrel-shaped bath, let’s pay attention to cellular polycarbonate. You can quickly and easily assemble an original design from it. In order for it to retain heat well, you will need two large sheets of this material and a frame made of metal or wooden blocks. A mineral wool insulation 10 cm thick is laid between them.

The ends of the building can be made from boards, stuffed onto an insulated wooden frame. Place such a bathhouse anywhere: at your dacha, on a polar ice floe or on the top of Everest and you will always be comfortable in its steam room (photo No. 5).

A small Russian bathhouse, made from scraps of timber, can be installed on oak posts. We see an example of such a structure in photograph No. 6.

More large structures need their own foundation. There are three possible options here:

1. Rubble concrete tape.
2. Brick columns.
3. Piles made of asbestos cement pipes.

Do not forget that the type of foundation affects the choice of material and wall design. Pile and columnar foundations are used to install a wooden frame, as well as for bathhouses made of timber or logs (photos No. 7 and No. 8).

The “tape” of rubble concrete is suitable for any walls (made of gas silicate blocks, logs and frames).

A cheap, reliable and simple version of a bathhouse is obtained using a technology called “clay mortar”. For such a structure you will need little: a truck of firewood, a cart of straw and a dump truck of clay (photo No. 10).

The best shape for a wood burning structure is round. It eliminates the need to reinforce masonry corners and looks aesthetically pleasing and original.

By borrowing from birds the technology of building nests from branches and clay, you can build such a simple and warm bathhouse (photo No. 11).

Recommendations for choosing finishing, insulation, sewerage installation, flooring, roofing and stove

For the exterior finishing of a frame bath, we can recommend the following materials:

• Wooden blockhouse.
• Metal tiles or corrugated sheets.
• Plastic siding.
• Cement particle board (CSB).
• OSB board.
• Flat slate.

It is best to use ecowool as insulation. It does not accumulate moisture, does not rot and does not burn. If ecowool is not available in your region, then you can buy regular mineral insulation in the form of a semi-rigid slab. It is easily and simply placed in the spaces between the frame posts.

To protect mineral wool from water vapor and reduce heat loss, the walls are lined with sheets of foil polyethylene. After this, a frame of slats is attached to them and trimmed with wood: alder, linden or pine clapboard (photo No. 13).

We do not recommend installing OSB board indoors. This material releases toxic gases when exposed to high temperatures.

Options for steam and thermal insulation of walls of a frame structure, as well as a bathhouse built from blocks or logs, are presented in Figure No. 1.

Building a simple bathhouse with your own hands includes sewerage. It can be made from standard plastic pipes laid out in cesspool or drainage well.

The water intake funnel is placed in the center or in the corner of the room, and the floor is made in the form of expanded clay concrete screed with a slope towards the drain. Before concreting, you need to compact the soil and cover it with several layers of waterproofing. Wooden flooring is an excellent option, but in a bathhouse it quickly rots and requires replacement. Instead, we recommend making gratings from wooden slats and laying them on a concrete screed. After washing, they can be removed, taken outside and dried.

The design of the bath ceiling is standard. First, a vapor barrier film is “attached” to the rafters and counter-battens (3x4 cm) are stuffed. A clapboard cladding is attached to them. The gaps between the rafters are filled with insulation and covered with under-roofing film. It protects it from weathering and atmospheric moisture (Fig. No. 2).

A counter-lattice is stuffed onto the film, creating a ventilated gap between the roof and the insulation. The work on installing the ceiling and roof is completed by installing the main sheathing and laying the roofing material (slate or metal tiles).

The main “detail” of any country bathhouse is the stove. It should provide rapid heating of the air and maintain a high temperature. A metal stove heats up the fastest.

To accumulate heat and create steam, it must be equipped with a compartment for stones. There are many options for stoves for simple baths, so we will not dwell on them in detail. Let's just say that the easiest way to make a heat generator is from a large-diameter steel pipe, an old gas cylinder or barrel (photo No. 15). Another easy-to-use material is a steel sheet 3-5 mm thick (photo No. 16).

Mastering the simplest techniques welding work, you can assemble such a structure without outside help.

A simple do-it-yourself bathhouse - options and construction features

Options for simple baths made of various materials, photos of examples and their descriptions. Recommendations for building a simple bathhouse at the dacha with your own hands.

Almost everyone loves the sauna - with its powerful heat that forces the body to work harder, the tart pine or birch smell, and the amazing healing effect.

The relaxation that comes after visiting her can be compared to a good rest. Unfortunately, in the metropolis there are very few opportunities to visit a bathhouse or sauna - both the lack of free time and the long distances to the nearest public institution interfere.

Let's try to figure out whether such an option as a sauna at home in the bathroom is possible, what legal documents are required and whether it is possible to make a home steam room with your own hands.

We will talk about a city apartment, because with suburban housing everything is a little simpler. On a summer cottage they usually build a bathhouse - a separate house with several compartments, one of which is occupied by a sauna or steam room.

Urban housing extremely rarely involves having your own plot of land (unless you are the owner of a cottage in the private sector), so the only place where you can place a sauna or steam room is your own apartment

As a rule, typical housing is equipped with a bathroom with a shower or bathtub. Usually this is enough to monitor your own hygiene: those who like to soak in some water choose a bath, and those who are constantly in a hurry choose a shower.

Everything seems to be fine, then why do you need a sauna? Why does almost every second Finnish apartment have a separate room with temperatures reaching 100ºC?

In fact, a sauna is a place where you can put your body, thoughts and emotions in order. The relaxation that comes after visiting the steam room can be compared to a professional massage: all muscles and organs relax.

It has been scientifically proven that regulars of steam rooms have stronger immunity, a positive attitude, excellent physical fitness and get sick much less often. Even the above is enough to understand why many cannot imagine life without a “hot” holiday.

A visit to the sauna is a great occasion to meet a friend or relative whom you haven’t seen for a long time, or, on the contrary, a great place to be alone

Choosing a place: bath, kitchen or balcony?

When you live in a private house, you don’t have to make such a strict choice - you can use the basement, the attic, the extension, or one of the free rooms with equal success.

In a city apartment, everything is different: the attic and basement are public (although in Finland, for example, these rooms are equipped as a sauna for the entire house), it is prohibited to use them for your own needs (only for storing things, and even then not in all houses).

You can build an extension - but this applies exclusively to residents of the 1st floor, and construction on central streets is prohibited, and for peripheral houses a lot of approvals will be required, and therefore money.

What remains are the premises that are parts of the apartment, the so-called “living” area. Balconies, loggias and glazed verandas have recently also begun to be classified as “residential” meters

Let's look at the legal documents and see what is allowed by law. It turns out that placing saunas in living rooms and kitchens is strictly prohibited (by the way, the ban also applies to basements of high-rise buildings). What remains is a balcony (loggia), a corridor or a bathroom.

If you live in the north, your balcony will require high-quality thermal insulation, since the outer wall of the house usually freezes. The corridor needs redevelopment, and only if it has sufficient area. The pantry is usually used as a dressing room - this frees the living space from bulky cabinets.

Therefore, a sauna in the bathroom should be considered more rational decision, provided that the footage and legal norms allow, which you will have to get to know more closely.

Do you need permits?

When reconstruction work is planned in an urban residential building, you need to remember the regulatory documents dictating special conditions. This also applies to a sauna - its construction is permitted, but there are a number of regulatory standards and restrictions.

You can refer to documents such as “Residential multi-apartment buildings” or “Architectural and planning solutions for multi-apartment residential buildings”, where you will find a list of rules and recommendations for the design and construction of saunas

There is a lot of useful information there, without knowledge of which you can receive an administrative penalty in the future.

In wooden apartment buildings(1-2-story) construction of a sauna is strictly prohibited, but in monolithic or brick with reinforced concrete floors, regardless of the number of floors and the number of entrances, it is allowed.

Particular attention is paid to the type of stove - a necessary device for sauna equipment. It is recommended to use a factory-made unit, with a passport and technical characteristics, including automatic shutdown after 8 hours of operation and when heated to 130ºС

The stove should not be gas or wood-burning, but must be electric - this is also a necessary condition. Accordingly, it is necessary to enter the premises power cable three-phase type.

Any violation (wood burning, lack of protective shutdown) is punishable by a fine with subsequent correction of shortcomings.

A number of requirements relate to the premises themselves. For example, if you have a studio apartment with an area of ​​less than 38 m², you can say goodbye to the idea of ​​a home sauna.

The area regulations apply to “two-room apartments” and “three-room apartments”: a two-room apartment is at least 54 m², a three-room apartment is 68 m². The area of ​​the steam room itself is small.

For example, Moscow legislation regulates a “patch” of up to 2 m³, designed for a maximum of 2 people. Such a strict restriction was introduced due to a weak ventilation system, which is sufficient for residential premises, but not enough to maintain a steam room

One of the requirements relates to the materials from which the sauna casing is made. It should be environmentally friendly wood, treated against fungus and mold.

Preference is given to aspen, linden, oak, that is, deciduous species. Wooden frame must be equipped with a fire-fighting device. Usually this is a pipe with many holes, fixed like a cornice (along the perimeter of the ceiling).

It is assumed that, in the event of a fire, spraying water from the holes should extinguish the fire and prevent a fire in the apartment.

In addition, it is necessary to attach a fire sensor to the ceiling, which, in the event of force majeure, transmits a signal to the Ministry of Emergency Situations.

Before visiting the BTI, you need to collect a package of documents, which includes copies of documents for the apartment, a floor plan, an extract from the house register with a copy of the personal account, a drawing of redevelopment or other design changes (usually performed by a licensed construction company).

Be prepared that it will take a lot of patience, time and effort to visit the following authorities (without guarantee of approval):

• fire service;
• HOA or other housing authority responsible for your home;
• housing inspection;
• Rospotrebnadzor department;
• architectural and construction supervision inspection.

This list is not final, since the number of approvals depends on the specific region. Remember that permission for conversion will be required even if you want to install a purchased sauna cabin instead of a shower stall.

Which sauna is best for an apartment?

At first glance, it seems that apartment saunas are not in demand, therefore, the choice is not that big. In fact, thanks to the hot steam and dry heat lovers of the Scandinavian countries, the range of factory models is quite diverse.

Let's start with the fact that all structures can be divided into 3 large groups:

• ready-made prefabricated factory-made models (from lining or panels), with a technical passport, warranty and professional installation;
• frames made to order according to the provided sketch (indicating the dimensions, type of stove, number of seats, etc.);
• buildings made independently according to ready-made or personally drawn up drawings.

The manufacturer is responsible for the operation of the first type along with you, and the remaining two points are solely on your conscience.

If a flood or fire occurs, as a result of which the residents of neighboring apartments suffer, the administrative violation will gradually turn into a criminal case - we advise you to consider all possible risks.

It’s much easier for residents of the private sector - if anyone gets hurt, it’s only the owner of the premises and his family.

Types of saunas for city residents

Considering in detail the technical nuances of each type, we can name more than 10 types of apartment saunas, but we will focus on the four most popular.

Cabin with electric oven

Externally (both in shape and size) this type of structure resembles a shower stall. It can be installed either against the wall or in a corner - front and corner models are sold

The installation of such a cabin (as well as another type of sauna) is considered as a refurbishment of the bathroom, since it will require modernization of communications. Accordingly, the collection of permits cannot be avoided.

There is a clever way to simplify installation: instead of reinstalling pipes, use flexible hoses - then there will be no need to visit authorities. All technical guarantees, as mentioned above, are assumed by the manufacturer.

Infrared model

The last few years have shown that this The best decision specifically for indoor use.

IR radiation is gentle heat rays that do not burden the cardiovascular system and are safe for humans and surrounding objects

Like hot wet air steam rooms, they remove toxins from the body and excess liquid, stimulate the work of all organs.

Compact mini-sauna (“barrel”)

An excellent alternative to the classic option if there is a shortage of free space in the bathroom.

Any free corner is suitable for installing a mini-sauna in the bathroom: its height is no higher than human height, and its area does not exceed 1 m³. The power of the heating device is approximately 2 kW.

Models made of cedar wood, equipped with a built-in steam generator, are common.

Convenient compact designs are often purchased for health purposes: strengthening the heart muscle, immunity, restoring skin elasticity, fighting cellulite

Despite its small size and simple operation, it is better to entrust the installation to a company that sells compact saunas.

Control is facilitated by a convenient remote control; some models are equipped with additional devices that make the procedure more enjoyable, for example, a balm sprayer.

Hamam - Turkish steam room

Not every apartment is suitable for building a hammam, exotic for our country. We don’t even consider standard 2-3-room options, but two-story housing with a separate entrance and a large area is quite suitable.

The fact is that one of the features of a Turkish bath is a domed ceiling with a height of at least 2.7-3 m. The main “working” apparatus is a steam generator, the floor covering is heated using the “warm floor” system

The room must be completely isolated from other rooms, equipped with good exhaust hood, sewerage, hot and cold water supply.

This is a good option for detached cottages for 2-4 families with free space.

Making a steam sauna with your own hands

To build a sauna in the bathroom you will need 1.5-2 m² of free corner area, wooden beams and lining, electric oven or IR heater, electrical cable, fastening material.

First of all, even before assembling the frame, it is necessary to draw a separate line of electrical communications, or rather, two lines: one is intended to power the stove, the second is for the lighting device. It is better to place all wires on the outside of the structure, in a specially insulated sleeve.

Make sure that the wires are new, straight, without twists or kinks - this is the key to safety. IR heater power – 1.5-2 kW, electric ovens– from 3 kW.

The cost of electric stoves for home saunas directly depends on the power. For example, models with a power of 6-9 kW can be purchased for 9-10 thousand rubles - for use on an area of ​​1.5-2 m² this is quite enough

Bright lighting is not required, as rest and relaxation involve calm, soft light. For a small area, one built-in lamp of 40-60 watts is suitable.

In addition, take care of ventilation in advance. It is recommended to embed the hood into the wall opposite the one next to which the stove is located.

A hole in the ceiling on the opposite side will also work.

The first thing you need to build is a strong frame, which forms the basis of the entire structure. Externally, the frame resembles a corner cabinet in both shape and size

You will need thick support beams measuring 50 x 50 mm, some of which are installed vertically, others horizontally (for tying and fixing). Adjacent supports are connected by 3-4 transverse parts.

For the ceiling perimeter, boards are used instead of beams. The door frame is also assembled from beams, leaving space for lining in the upper part. To finish the floor, either hardwood or ceramics are used (as in the entire room).

The next stage is the thermal insulation of the cabin. One of the practical and inexpensive options is rolls or mats of universal mineral wool for interior work, at least 50 mm thick

Polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene are not used as insulation for a home sauna, since heating may release volatile components that are harmful to health.

To ensure better thermal insulation, a layer of mineral wool is attached to the top. aluminum foil. Thin sheets of foil are attached to the beams using a construction stapler

The walls and ceiling, lined with insulation, are covered with lathing made of thin beams 20x40 mm. The lathing will serve as the basis for finishing with clapboard.

Coniferous trees are not suitable for a sauna, so it is better to use aspen or linden, which also does not heat up too much and is ideal for constructing benches

After lining the outer and inner parts, you can begin to equip the door.

The perimeter of the door is made of the same material as the walls; the central part can be decorated with impact-resistant glass - transparent, frosted or with a sandblasted pattern

Upon completion of the construction work, they proceed to the manufacture of benches, which are placed along one wall like a ladder. For a small cabin, two benches are enough.

Linden is recognized as the best material for benches - it has a fresh light yellow tint, is easy to process, and does not heat up much at elevated air temperatures.

Pay attention to the location of the fasteners - all self-tapping screws and bolts must be attached from the bottom, since the metal can cause burns when heated.

The height of fixation of shelves or benches is chosen based on the size of the booth and your own convenience, however, the top shelf is usually mounted at a height of 1 m 10 cm

For safety reasons, the electric oven is fenced with a wooden grill.

As you can see, a small sauna in the form of a cabin takes up very little space and perfectly complements the interior of a bathroom in a city apartment

If you still don’t have a compact and convenient sauna at home, it’s time to think about purchasing one, and if you have enough skills and experience, then about building it yourself.

Hello, dear site visitors! We continue the series of articles from our readers. In this article, the author shares personal experience on how to build a log sauna with your own hands. The construction is not finished yet, so we wish him success! If you have recommendations or questions for the author, you are welcome to comment.

Part 1. Foundation

To build the bathhouse, I chose a relatively flat area with a slope of 20 cm on a six-meter section. First of all, after preliminary marking, I cut off the fertile layer over the entire area of ​​the future foundation. This is required to eliminate the processes of decay of plant residues and other organic matter in the basement.

Sandy soil predominates on the site, so the best option would be a height of 50 cm from the base and a width of 40 cm. The contour of the foundation is marked with ropes, which are attached to the improvised corners of the internal and external perimeter. To mark the perimeter, I took scraps of boards about 70 cm long and drove them into the ground, and screwed horizontal shelves on top with self-tapping screws with protruding screws for attaching the rope. It is better to choose a rope that is not prone to stretching; it will be easier to work with.

In addition to the lengths of the sides of the future foundation, the diagonals between the corners must be verified, which must be equal to each other with a tolerance of plus/minus 3-4 cm. You can read more about the methods of marking the foundation in this article. We continue to remove the fertile layer and dig a trench to create a sand cushion.

As a result, we get a fully prepared “pit”, where the bottom of the trenches is almost horizontal (we check it with a building level). The depth of the trenches is 20 cm, from the soil level in the highest place of the site 40 cm, in the lowest - 30 cm.

The dimensions of the foundation are determined by the center of the intersection of the logs. This will be the center line. If the diameter of the logs is about 20-22 cm, then we retreat 15-20 cm in both directions from the center line. This will be required to obtain “shelves” for attaching floor joists and rain tides. In addition, the mistake is practically eliminated when logs, due to miscalculations in the foundation, fall outward or inward, “hanging” in the air.

The bathhouse is connected to the strip foundation to eliminate multidirectional shifts of the bathhouse and stove. The size of the stove platform was chosen as 120*120 cm, as the average size for installing metal stoves under brick lining.

We begin laying sand in the trenches. At the same time, we moisten the sand and compact it. We pour water until puddles appear, after the moisture is absorbed, we begin to tamp. The process is repeated 3-4 times until your shoes leave no marks on the compacted surface of the sand.

A day later, after finishing the work, we once again go through the entire base under the foundation with a tamper. Of course, you can use a simpler option and connect a tamping machine to the work; this will speed up the process slightly. I have the simplest option: a 100 mm beam, a 20x20 mm sole and a handle. The appearance of the finished base and manual tamper is shown below.

We pour a sand cushion on top of the prepared site under the foundation to level the horizon and raise the site above the level of the site to prevent water from getting under the foundation.

If you hire a concrete truck, take care to additionally strengthen the formwork with diagonal stops outside and inside the proposed foundation. The pressure that is created when supplying the mixture is not enough to carry robust construction. The same applies to pouring the mixture from a concrete mixer. Only in this case you need to strengthen the place where you will drain or simply move the concrete mixer around the perimeter.

It is better to pour the entire volume of concrete at one time, so as not to get the effect of a layered pie. We cover the top of the foundation with a film that keeps our foundation moist to avoid cracks in the concrete. We periodically water the foundation with water, not allowing it to dry out.

After 7-10 days, we remove the formwork, unscrewing the screws, which will also be used in subsequent stages. The finished foundation looks like this. Layout: 2x6 meters – veranda; 4x4 meters – rest room; 2x2 meters – washing room; 2x2 meters - steam room. Location ventilation holes approximately 20 cm from the soil level; if necessary, you can buy plugs to close the holes in winter.

The approximate quantity and price of materials used in the construction of the foundation are indicated in the table below.

Part 2. Installation of log house and roof

To bandage a 6x4 meter log house and a chopped veranda you will need 25 bags of moss. When purchasing, make sure that the bag of compacted moss weighs approximately 20 kg. The moss must be elastic, that is, have optimal humidity.

We use “cuckoo flax,” which we collect in late autumn, when all living creatures go to “winter” in the soil and there is no risk of catching a snake with a bunch of moss. A small amount of sphagnum moss is allowed, which is shorter and crumbles when dry. If you completely use only sphagnum, then after a while it will simply fall out of the grooves.

The length of the moss strands should be at least 30 cm, so that when caulking, you can curl the ends and ensure sealing of the grooves. When drying, we sort the material, selecting twigs, foreign plants and cones. By the way, if a cone falls into a groove, then at a certain humidity it opens with such force, which is enough to lift the log and create a “cold bridge”. This is what log installers did in the old days, and even now this situation is not uncommon if the owner “offends” with money.

We install rolling logs. I have a small gap between the foundation and the log house, so I used half a log on one side and a 100 mm beam on the other.

We break through the place where the log comes into contact with the roofing felt with moss.

Mistakes were discovered that were caused by the reluctance of the hewers to do their work efficiently. The grooves were cut using a chainsaw, which made the gaps in the logs very large. Look, the edges of the grooves fit tightly to the body of the log, but in fact there is emptiness inside. Because of this, the amount of moss that will be used for caulking increases greatly. And this is if you do the caulking yourself, and the “shabashniks” only do the external treatment, no one will pierce the insides.

Material	Volume/quantity	Price
Edged fence board “inch” for sheathing, 300 mm	1 m 3	4500 rubles
Wood screws 50 mm	2 kg	300 rubles
Moss	25 bags	6250 rubles
Log house	1 piece	72,000 rubles
Board 50*150 six-meter	14 pieces	3600 rubles
Metal tiles, thickness 0.5 mm, length 4.2 meters (additionally ridge and wind protection)	12 sheets	31,000 rubles
Steam-Wind insulation	1 roll	800 rubles
Tongue board 20 mm	1 m 3	8500 rubles
"Belinka" base	2.5 liters	400 rubles
"Belinka" glaze composition	2.5 liters	600 rubles
Total:		127950 rubles

Part 3. Caulking of a log house

The simplest, but tedious job of caulking a log house. We use a mallet, iron and wooden caulking. The iron one has a blade thickness of 3 mm and a width of 50 mm, the wooden one is made from hard wood (I have dry birch) and is a consumable material.

Initial view of the groove.

We tuck the moss into the groove with a construction trowel. Previously I used a spatula, but it quickly failed and was not so elastic. Feel free to hammer the groove completely. There is an opinion among ordinary people that there is no need to make the seams tight and uniform, they say, the temperature in the bathhouse is enough to compensate for the losses. But judge for yourself, drafts in the steam room and washing room will not add comfort and the consumption of firewood will be 2-3 times higher.

We hammer the resulting roller with wooden caulk.

If necessary, if the groove is not tight enough, we make another roller of moss and punch it until we feel the hardness of the wood when struck with iron caulking.

Final view of the caulked groove.

To prevent birds from dragging moss and for aesthetics, we close the groove with a 100 mm wide jute tape, which will subsequently be treated with impregnation and a glazing compound to match the color of the log. Special “craftsmen” place logs only on jute or flax, but this is unacceptable for a bathhouse. If we have constant humidity in our house, then steam generation is encouraged in the bathhouse. Flax and jute absorb moisture, but do not dry out for a long time, the grooves rot and mold.

We receive logs prepared for grinding.

We caulk the corners especially carefully to prevent cold air from entering the bathhouse. Work, if you don’t hire specialists, will be in vain. When attracting "shabashniks" - from 70 to 150 rubles per linear meter.

Part 4. Sanding logs

So, the caulking is completed, the moss is tucked in and compacted in the grooves, we begin to prepare the log house for painting. Currently, the logs look very unpresentable - plane marks, chips and pulled out chips. In addition, the logs are heavily “tanned” in the sun and under the influence of slanting rains, and some of the knots require removal and sealing with mastic.

The ends of logs that were damaged during storage and transportation also require processing. Here the wood is the loosest, and therefore there is a high probability of rotting and further destruction of the log.

Tools for grinding logs:

• Bulgarian;
• flap sanding wheel;
• soft mop brush;
• putty knife.

The grinder used was the cheapest - 1200 rubles, made in China. It is worth noting that it passed all the tests with honor and remained operational even after passing 70 square meters of walls (we add to this the semicircular profile of the log). The only inconvenience is cleaning the stator, rotor and the inside of the angle grinder from wood dust. Of course, you can put a stocking on the instrument, but the incoming air is not enough for cooling. By the way, the work is very dusty and immediately stock up on glasses, closed on all sides, and respiratory protection - a respirator is enough. Working with an angle grinder requires utmost attention. High speeds and a removed protection cover can play a cruel joke on you. All you have to do is lose your vigilance and approach the grinding wheel too quickly, and you are guaranteed to get injured. I walked over the same place on my hand twice - the glove was in shreds and the skin was torn to the flesh.

The grinding wheel was used with 80 grit. After testing and selection, I settled on this value - 60 grit leaves too noticeable marks, and 100 grit clogs very quickly. The approximate consumption of petal circles is 1 piece per 3 square meters. You can continue to use the circle, but the pace of work will slow down and you will simply get tired.

Attention, bonus! I accidentally discovered that if a circle clogged with dust and resin is walked over the concrete of the foundation, the sandpaper is cleaned and the circle is ready for work again.

If you don't have the skill and work with caution, you can sand 6-10 squares of wall in a day. The prices of the “shabashniks” fluctuate between 400-500 rubles per square and plus they do not stand on ceremony with spending circles. Pay attention to the resin pockets. If you expose such an area, then treat it with a solvent, otherwise this resin will then appear even through a layer of paint.

I started working from the smallest wall, the logs are transformed before my eyes. I encountered a problem that when processing grooves, the edge of the grinding wheel leaves cuts on the bottom log. But with further processing, the cuts are ground off well and no marks remain.

There is especially a lot of fuss with the corners, the high speed of the grinder and the tightness slow down the process. Where the circle is not enough, you will have to switch to a slower processing method - a chisel.

When the grinding wheel has almost sat down, we pass the ends of the logs. It is irrational to use a new circle for the ends - you will have to throw it over a dozen logs.

We seal the ends with wood mastic. At first I used the color “pine”, but then I realized that it was more economical to use White color, since it will be painted under it.

After sanding, the interesting structure of the wood appears, with intricate patterns running throughout the log. Knots and unevenness of the log add log sauna a certain fundamentality, and I was even glad when I came across particularly gnarled specimens.

To get an idea of ​​what the wall would look like after painting, I stopped and prepped the logs. Based on all the combined criteria (quality and price), I chose the composition under the Belinka brand. I pre-treated it with Base, which had a drying time of 24 hours, and passed over the polished surface with the first layer of glaze composition No. 24 (rosewood). Agree, enchanting beauty! If you want to get a surface that is smooth to the touch, then after the first layer of the composition and it has dried, go over the log manually with sandpaper. This is true on the railings and on the front part of the bathhouse, where guests love to run their hands along the wall and evaluate the work of the master.

The drying time for the first layer is 12 hours; to be sure, I left it for a day and covered it with a second layer. A dark, noble matte shine appeared. Another trick is that after using the glazing composition, a little pigment remains at the bottom of the jar. We dilute it with a solvent until it looks very pale and go over the second layer of the dried coating. You can do the procedure at any time after coating. As a result, we get a surface that resembles a log additionally impregnated with wax. Very pretty.

Along the way, the ends were treated with glazing compound No. 11 (white), which favorably highlights the work already done.

I was completely satisfied with the result, so we continue the grinding we started. Since you will do all the work yourself, the quality will be at the highest level. If hired workers can ignore flaws, then the master himself will torment himself for even the smallest mistake. For example, knowing that somewhere at the bottom of the log I missed a cut, like a criminal returning to the scene of a crime, I examined my “jamb” again and again. Until he fixed it.

The log house is becoming more and more beautiful. Don’t forget to clean the logs from dust with a brush after work.

The following photo shows logs treated with Base and the ends sealed with white mastic.

Having appreciated the color and texture of the painted logs, I realized that inside the veranda it would look somewhat dark, and I conducted an experiment by painting the log with composition No. 11 (white).

White paint preserves the texture of sanded logs, and I decided to completely paint the veranda. Through the first layer, a slight yellowness of the pine appears, and there is no shine. Very similar to just bleached wood. But the second layer works wonders. Shine and a certain completeness appear. By the way, buy “Belinka Lazur”, since the white “Belinka Top Lazur” is intended for window frames and costs much more.

Now the bathhouse, with the exception of one wall, is covered in one layer and looks like a house with a negative of Khokhloma painting. The top cross beam is pleasing - it is a knotty fir tree, which gives the structure the appearance of matching the natural style.

We continue the construction of the bathhouse and move on to the stage of laying floors on the veranda. There is a roof over the room, but the absence of a pediment (for the airiness of the structure) does not prevent drops of slanting rain from entering. In winter, it is possible that snow will blow in and then melt during the thaw. Therefore, we will pay special attention to preserving the boards and joists, as well as giving the floor surface water-repellent properties along with a good appearance.

Part 5. Veranda floor

The logs will be 50*150 boards placed on edge. According to the universal formula, the thickness of the board is multiplied by a factor of 20, and we get the step between the logs in my case 1000 mm. But I decided to strengthen the structure somewhat and placed the logs in 600 mm increments. It turned out like this.

For the veranda (conditionally 2 meters by 6 meters) I purchased 16 six-meter boards, taking into account the joists and a reserve of one board. It cost me 4300 rubles and 500 rubles delivery. Blue stains and mold appeared on some boards, which can be easily removed by sanding and bleaching. Worst of all, several boards are infested with wood-boring beetles. Its larvae made several through holes, which I then sealed with mastic. Upon inspection, I didn’t find any more living creatures, and that’s where I calmed down - after drying, the wood doesn’t attract them much, and treatment with an antiseptic and biocide will discourage the beetle from any desire to approach my veranda. I laid a vapor-permeable film on the ground inside the foundation so that no plant had a chance to germinate inside the veranda. The boards were marked and sawed according to their location.

Afterwards, I removed the boards, numbering them by location, and began processing the joists. I used a powerful antiseptic made in Yaroslavl. I am a little familiar with the preparation of antiseptics and the composition of the purchased products inspired confidence in me. Wood preservation is declared for 45 years, subject to impregnation technology. It is required to use 500 grams of solution per square meter, i.e. Apply the first layer, and after 1-2 hours the second. The antiseptic is yellow, so the coating is clearly visible. When dry it becomes dark brown.

Next came the turn of processing the boards. First, I passed over the surface located below and on the sides of the boards with a flap emery wheel attached to a grinder to remove the lint. This way we ensure better absorption of the antiseptic. Then we grind the front surface with a wheel with 100 grit. I also used my long-suffering grinder of the lowest price category. If you are afraid of making ruts and holes, then try sanding part of the board with a hammered wheel to gain a little experience. Don't forget to chamfer the edges of the board.

Attention, bonus! To ensure that the floor surface is ideal to the touch and pleasant to the feet, walk on the sanded board with a gentle soap solution. Apply with a brush or roller. When dry, the raised residual pile will become hard and can be easily knocked off with sandpaper even in manual mode.

We lay the boards on the logs with a gap of 4 mm. As a “standard” we take an ordinary nail, which we place vertically between the boards.

Since my boards have natural humidity, maybe a little drier, there is a possibility of them warping during the drying process. That is why I decided to use screw nails rather than self-tapping screws for fastening. A self-tapping screw is a weaker fastener for lateral loads and can simply burst. To prevent rust from spreading to the boards, cover the head of the nail with wood mastic.

Do you see the nail? And he is here!

In the process of laying the boards, I begin to process them. I had the choice of using Alpina outdoor terrace oil or Belinka glazing compound as a coating. I liked the second option better. Firstly, both oil and Belinka Base penetrate deeply into the wood and protect it from moisture. Secondly, the tinting of oil and Belinka No. 24 are almost similar. Thirdly, oil and glaze composition, which do not have high abrasion resistance, should be renewed every two years. And fourthly, Belinka is cheaper. A large flow of visitors is not planned on the veranda and the maximum load is walking in slippers or barefoot.

After the first layer of Base has dried (24 hours), apply the second layer and give it another day to dry. And the culminating moment comes - coating with Belinka No. 24 glazing compound. If you want more effect and shine of the floor, then purchase Top Azure.

–––––– Six months have passed ––––––

It’s been a long time since my last story, and the construction of the bathhouse has gradually moved forward. Little by little, because you have to do everything yourself. I don't trust covens. I contacted them twice (assembling the frame and installing the roof) and was very dissatisfied with the result.

I looked at the bathhouse from the side and decided that another pediment was needed to protect the veranda space from rain. I placed the clapboard in different directions, leaving something like a window. There will be a stained glass window - polycarbonate with a pattern applied with special stained glass paints.

The fit of the boards to the gable turned out to be quite tight, so I will do without an additional plinth and leave it as is.

The pediment was painted the same color as the bathhouse, and a side board with pretend carvings was installed. The cost of the work was: lining - 2500 rubles; self-tapping screws – 200 rubles; paint - 200 rubles; wind carved board - 800 rubles. I think it’s quite inexpensive for such a result.

Last year I didn’t have time to paint the roof lining, I just covered it with base, and the temperatures started to drop below zero. Just the other day, having chosen a period without rain, I walked with two layers of white Belinka. I liked the result, but I’m thinking of securing it with a third layer.

And so, a new bathhouse construction season has opened. In the fall, I managed to capture several fine days with positive temperatures, which allowed me to finally make a window and a door. The technology for preparing openings is standard. We mark and cut out to form a spike on the log. For the window opening I used 100*200 timber, and for the door frame I used 100*250 timber. At the sawmill they met me halfway and made two six-meter blanks to special order. They charged ridiculous amounts of money - about 2,500 rubles including delivery.

On site, the timber was sawn into the required lengths. The window opening turned out to be clean 50*50 centimeters, the door was clean 70*160. So let’s really implement the ancient commandment - bow to the bathhouse when you enter. The upper level of the threshold will be 15 centimeters from the floor to keep warm in winter. I cut a groove on the beam to the size of the tenon on the log, plus a centimeter in width in each direction. I attached a 20 centimeter wide roll of insulation to the tenon, I think it was linen, I don’t remember what I bought. Vertical beam went in tight, and horizontal sections were used as spacers. The gap from the top post to the log is about 3 cm, filled with moss. There is also moss under the threshold and window sill, which, after installing all the components, was compacted to the state of almost a log.

A quarter is selected on the window for ease of installation of plastic. Spacers are installed in the door, since deformation is possible during the natural drying of the timber.

What's planned. The window is plastic with imitation of division into smaller windows. The photo shows my hooliganism, so to speak - instead of a window I inserted foam plastic and insulating tape made markings for the future product.

The door is metal with insulation along the leaf and jambs. At the company where the doors are made, the director is a good friend of mine, we discussed all the details and, I hope, we will get a good product. There will be a wooden overlay 1.5 centimeters thick along the door leaf. Using the overlay, I will age the wood, make an imitation of forged hinges and wooden crossbars. But that’s in the future, but now I’m busy landscaping the veranda.

We have one craftsman who makes tables and benches of fairly good quality and very inexpensively. This headset cost me only 7.5 thousand rubles. Following tradition, I covered it with Belinka base, Rosewood glazing compound and deck varnish from the same company.

Somewhere on the hundredth or two hundredth jump from the level of the veranda, I realized that I needed a porch. The plans were to make some kind of forged product with wooden steps, but for now I decided to limit myself to a temporary building. Although the temporary hut turned out to be quite nice and will still serve me until I get tired of it. On the sides I used logs that remained from cutting out the openings, and on the steps I used a 50*150 board. He placed stones from a nearby quarry on the base.

And now about the urgent matter. First, I apply caulking inside the log house. The logs have already settled in place. What is possible - dried up, what is needed - led, what wanted - sat down on its own permanent place. Accordingly, cracks have appeared inside that require careful sealing.

External inspection confirmed good quality caulking. Nothing fell out, the birds didn’t act up, and the moss lay as planned. When I cut out the openings, the moss compacted into one dense and hard strip, it was even difficult to disassemble, but such strips are good for filling cracks. I made another caulk from birch. The spatula turned out to be wider and larger; a two-kilogram sledgehammer fits perfectly with it. Moss flies into the cracks with a whistle, and where the log lies too tightly I use birch wedges. The process is long, but mandatory if you don’t want to steam in felt boots in winter. Secondly, I inspected the foundation. There are slight chips on the outside, but these are sagging during pouring and do not affect the quality. However, if I have free time, I will plaster and cover it with façade paint. I haven't chosen the manufacturer or color yet. Last year I installed ebb tides, which performed well even with a serious snow load. And thirdly, I will count the snow guards. When last year a crust formed on the roof after an icy rain and 50-60 centimeters of snow fell on it, there was a good surprise in the form of a huge dense snowdrift near the bathhouse after the first thaw.

Well, I’ll tell you what I do to keep my bathhouse warm and dry. A month ago I bought a metal stove from the Izistim company for 58,000 rubles. I took a long time to choose, tediously, read all the reviews and realized - this is what I need. Its parameters can be found on the company’s official website, where it is given detailed description. While the stove is standing on the street in front of the bathhouse, I still need to figure out how to carefully drag 130 kg of metal, especially since I don’t have floors yet and there are 600 bricks stacked on the ground. It turned out that these stoves are made literally right next door to me, so I had the honor of communicating directly with the manufacturers, who really helped with advice and recommendations. The pipe is planned to stand next to the stainless sleeve. The structure will be about 5 meters. I ordered a stainless steel pipe with a wall thickness of 1 mm there, from the Izistim company. Literally a week later I received my order. Laser welding, high quality and reasonable price. In terms of money, the pleasure amounted to 11,500 full rubles for a set of pipes of 5 meters. CRAFT company.

The complete kit includes a tee, a plug for cleaning the pipe from soot and removing condensation, and a type of adapter with a platform that will allow you to firmly fix the chimney in a brick pipe. The structure on the right in the photo is a horizontal section of pipe from the stove to the chimney. Heat-resistant stainless steel, 4 mm thick, was made at EasySteam for 4,300 rubles.

I purchased Kostroma clay brick grade 150, which is enough for lining a stove. The geometry of the brick is normal; if necessary, the edges can be rounded to give the products a more interesting shape. If you want more beautiful brick, then buy Vitebsk mark 200. Each brick cost me 25 rubles apiece.

I didn’t bother with clay, which still needs to be mined somewhere and a solution prepared, since I don’t have any special skills. I purchased the ready-made mixture " Stove house Makarovs" produced in Kostroma, Gzhel colors. They also have a white clay mixture for the aesthetes. It was not possible to find the stove makers - everyone was busy. The cost for craftsmen starts from 40 rubles per brick on the lining and 60 rubles per brick on the pipe. You can calculate the cost of the work yourself. I will do it myself, although the work will take longer.

Part 6. Oven

“And the battle begins again” - we continue the construction of the bathhouse and the improvement of the internal space. The heart of the sauna is the stove. My wishes for the climate of the future steam room and other rooms are extremely simple and unpretentious. Firstly, your feet and ears should be warm even in winter, and not steam with a hard plus in the head area and at the same time wearing felt boots so that your feet don’t freeze. Secondly, there must be inertia sauna stove to be able to stop flooding and steam without running around for firewood while maintaining the desired temperature at all times. It is advisable to keep the heat in the bathhouse for two or three days to dry the premises. And thirdly, hot water should not boil in the steam room, but should be located in the washing compartment in the remote tank.

As I already wrote, the Sochi stove from the Izistim company with a mounted heat exchanger for heating water was chosen.

The heat exchanger is equipped with inlet and outlet pipes with a diameter of one inch. The design is intended to be covered with brick, which will simultaneously serve as a screen from hard infrared radiation emanating from the metal and the heat accumulator. Before installation, you need to heat the stove outside in a gentle mode to burn the factory paint and eliminate the burning smell when used directly in the bathhouse. A heat-resistant cord is laid on the door and ash pan, which is necessary for sealing. This has not happened before, but company managers listen to consumer recommendations through communication on the forum and make the necessary changes.

A cast iron grate is installed inside the combustion chamber. Additional sheets of metal are welded on the sides and end of the chamber to reduce the impact of the flame on the furnace walls to avoid deformation.

For relative draft, I installed a meter-long pipe and conducted the first tests of a metal sauna stove. The draft even with such a piece of pipe is quite good, only there is a slight emission of smoke from the door when it is opened and, accordingly, a small amount of soot on the glass.

The foundation for the stove is connected to the foundation of the bathhouse, and reinforcement was carried out during pouring. To begin laying, I leveled the surface with cement mortar so as not to damage the waterproofing. I laid two layers of roofing felt on the pedestal, on which I will begin laying bricks.

To rise above the floor level, and from the foundation it will be about 18-19 centimeters, we lay out the base under the stove three bricks high. There is a little trick. To save mortar and bricks, we lay out a “well”, and inside we simply place the worst brick and fill the remaining space with sand.

The sand will need to be slightly moistened and compacted so that it does not settle, but this is not necessary; the filling will not go anywhere.

Bricks produced in Kostroma, costing 24 rubles per piece. The geometry is normal, there are chips in the corners and edges, so you have to choose the front side of the stove. It doesn't prick well, it's better to cut it with a grinder. For the solution, the stove mixture "Makarov's Stove House" is used. The solution sets quickly, holds the brick well, and is easy to use. Bags of 25 kg, cost about 400 rubles per piece. One bag is designed for laying 60 bricks. The solution must be mixed with a powerful drill with an attachment; it is unlikely that you will be able to make a homogeneous mass with your hands. The mixture is well dried and you have to add quite a lot of water.

I “sealed” the top row of bricks along the base of the stove with mortar; I wanted to install the structure on metal nickels - the legs of the stove, it seemed to me, would push through the brick. But it turned out that in this case the neck with the door rises and a gap appears. Therefore, I later cleaned off the solution and discarded the lining.

I immediately tried on convection doors that would draw air from the relaxation room into the steam room for exchange. But, as it turned out later, they cannot be installed in this place; the decorative screen around the firebox would interfere.

The most difficult thing was to drag the stove into the bathhouse and not demolish anything along the way. The 130 kg structure was awe-inspiring, and I had to order two stronger loaders. If the first time a loader from the “legs and cap” category helped me drag the stove to the bathhouse, then the craftsmen really arrived. They moved me away and in 10 minutes they installed the “piece of iron” at the place of operation.

I installed a T-bend on the stove to determine the main pipe. The picture shows a view from the rear, where the “lambs” are located for removing the roof and subsequently cleaning the pipe from soot, although the manufacturers assured me that there was no soot.

The main pipe will run to the left of the furnace and will also sit on a foundation connected to a common strip. We continue laying and forming a pipe.

The pipe will be functional only after the T-shaped section enters, so we make its sides one and a half bricks long, and also fill the internal space with sand.

Inside the steam room in the furnace screen we install two more convection doors, but of a large size. This is necessary to quickly warm up the room. We do not cover the top of the stove with bricks, leaving space for stones. When the convection doors are open, air is taken from the floor, passes near the stove body and exits through the stones already heated. The air flow can be adjusted using the damper. The doors are hung from the side that is convenient for you.

I bought the doors from the Izistim company; they modernized the design by adding a stainless steel frame the width of the brick. Now it has become convenient to install the doors, without additional fastening with wire. Small gaps are left around the perimeter (except for the bottom) of the doors, which compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

The main pipe, so that it passes between the rafters and does not take up much space, is located in line with the “face” of the stove screen. The T-adapter goes a little to the side. Izistim made it for me in abundance. But, as it turned out, the size was the most suitable, as they say, neither decrease nor increase. A 4 mm stainless steel product cost 4,500 rubles.

It's time to hang the heat exchanger. I bought galvanized angles, bends and couplings per inch, attached them to general design, wrapping the thread with flax treated with heat-resistant sealant (red in the photo).

The brickwork reached the top of the firebox. We install a support angle of 50*50 mm with an overlap of 8-10 cm on the brick. There is a thermal gap of about 2 cm around the firebox.

The front side is almost finished, the convection doors are set higher than planned, but for air exchange this is even more convenient; the air coming from the relaxation room into the steam room will not overheat. Contact with the heated oven is minimal.

We slowly cover the heat exchanger with masonry and make pipe outlets to connect to the remote tank. The holes are not very neat and then I will cover them with disks from of stainless steel or other decor that is not afraid of moisture. This is a wall in the washing room; it is planned to lay brick up to the ceiling.

The facade of the stove is finished, the next row will be a “mantelpiece” so that the hot air from the firebox, when it is opened, does not go directly to the ceiling, but has some obstacle. Yes, and you can put interior decoration items on the shelf.

The wall in the washing room is finished, the pipe connections are made. All that remains is to buy stainless pipes and make connections to the hanging tank.

It's time to fire the pipe. Tying the masonry from the steam room side. The T-adapter is connected to the sleeve through a tee. A cover is installed at the bottom of the tee to drain condensate and clean the pipe from soot.

From the side of the steam room, the stove looks like this: the T-shaped adapter is covered with a brick screen on top. A 40*40 corner was taken as supports.

I will cover the free cavity above the stove and the adapter with stones for decoration and evaporation of various incense; no other function is provided for these stones. And perhaps I’ll cover the pipe with a sheet of stainless steel iron to avoid harsh thermal radiation from the highly heated metal.

We continue to build the pipe. In the place where the ceiling passes, we form a fluff in order to maintain fire safety distances from the “smoke” to the wooden structures. As expected, the front and side walls of the stove reached almost to the future ceiling.

According to calculations, the main pipe should pass in the middle between ceiling beams. And so it happened. The pipe has “grown” to the roof and it’s time to make an opening.

And the “face” of the stove looks like this. Convection doors are located in one row with pipe cleaning. It’s still stained with clay, but you can already understand what I want.

Next we prepare the roof for the passage of the pipe. From the inside, the roof was drilled into the corners of the future passage with a margin of one centimeter. I used a grinder to cut out metal tiles on the roof. I got a passage almost strictly in the center of the ridge, which is convenient for later closing the hole from rain. And the snow will not put pressure on the brickwork.

First of all, we insert a stainless pipe sleeve into the opening, then we begin laying.

You should not be content with just the level; you will have to run down so that the pipe is visually level. “Otter”, the rain protection is made of almost half a brick. And so the pipe, not yet cleared of clay, takes its proper shape.

The pipe was cleaned of clay and coated with varnish for exterior work on stone and brick in three layers. Each layer hardens in about four parts at a temperature of +200°C. This produces the effect of a wet stone and seals the pores. The temperature at the top of the stove will be approximately the same as the outside air, if only a little warmer, so the varnish is frost-resistant and can withstand sudden temperature changes. The result was the effect of wet stone and sealing of pores on the brick and seams, which will protect the material from washing out.

The pipes were covered around with material that was left over from making the castings. The approach to the brick is about 1 centimeter under the “otter”. The very first rains showed the effectiveness of the design.

Firstly, clean the oven from clay. Do not use water. This way you will only rub the mortar inside the brick and will not be able to get rid of the stains. If you don’t want to spoil the outer part of the brick, then be patient, use rags and brushes. You can use fine sandpaper.

Secondly, coat the oven with heat-resistant varnish, it is enough to use the composition up to 1500 ° C, you will not heat the screen any more, even if you want.

And thirdly, place an umbrella on the pipe to prevent precipitation from getting inside.

A little trick: to prepare the solution, take rainwater, thereby avoiding salt stains on the bricks when the clay dries.

And, I will be happy to answer all your questions, since the report from the scene is far from complete and you may be interested in some nuances. We’ll help, take photos, show you.

To be continued! ( 1 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)

Building a bathhouse from a log frame is not an easy task, but the construction technology, choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen. This material explains all the key points that will help in building a log bathhouse: from laying the foundation to interior decoration.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camp heaters. And in the 21st century, the Russian bathhouse has not become some kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries-old competition with bathtubs and showers. Get rid of many ailments, remove from the body harmful substances accumulated in city everyday life, give the body good rest- all this is achieved by visiting the bathhouse for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it is designed in general - you will find answers to many “bathroom” questions in this article.

Place and layout of the bathhouse

One of the important additions to the bathhouse itself at all times was a pond with fresh water, located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. The special charm of the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrasting ablution - after steaming in a Russian bathhouse, running out of it and plunging into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, the natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with a fire in the bathhouse, which occurred quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Today, there is no particular need to link a dacha bathhouse to a natural body of water, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the dacha.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bathhouse: distance from the road, the presence of natural or artificial fencing from outside spectators (dense bushes, tree crowns, fences, outbuildings), fire distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.

The main rooms of the bathhouse are the dressing room, washing room and steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m2 per bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m2 per person. In addition, the dressing room should have space for furniture (a locker for clothes, a bench for sitting) and for storing fuel (a box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need space for containers with hot and cold water, a stove and space for sun loungers.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people) a bathhouse of the following dimensions is suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing room - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bathhouse of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bathhouse is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the area is significant, then the bathhouse can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, rest rooms, etc.

In temperate and cold climate zones, it would be correct if the entrance to the bathhouse is located in the south, and the window openings are on its western (southwestern) side. This entrance location will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in winter season, because snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow sunlight to illuminate its premises longer.

Construction of a bathhouse - stages

There are several of them:

1. Procurement of basic materials.
2. Selecting and laying the foundation.
3. Creating a foundation for a stove (if necessary).
4. Creation of the floor and sewer system of the bathhouse.
5. Assembling a log bathhouse.
6. Roof construction.
7. Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
8. Caulking bath walls.
9. Laying or installing a stove, installing a chimney.
10. Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse.
11. Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

The classic and most successful construction material for a Russian bathhouse has been and will remain wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging in bathhouses, removing excess moisture outside.

What wood is suitable for building a bathhouse? As a rule, baths are built from round timber of pine or spruce with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bathhouse - oak, larch and linden. For example, lower crowns and floor joists made of oak will allow you to get a truly durable bathhouse. A nuance - the oak must be cut down “in its sap” (that is, not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4) following the first oak crown are best made of larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to stockpile wood for building a bathhouse? Round wood, wood for interior decoration, must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bathhouse - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, i.e. the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion when selecting wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the coniferous round timber, dryness, sanded surface, absence of rotten areas and places of wood-boring beetle damage.

Bathhouse foundation

The main types of foundations for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the type of foundation chosen, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - preferably to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying a foundation of any type: clearing the site of debris, completely removing the top layer of soil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

1. Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid or fluid-plastic clay.
2. Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (silty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
3. Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bathhouse

Installed on slightly heaving soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bathhouse, as well as at the junction of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of laying the columnar foundation is at least 1.5 m.

The pillars for such a foundation can be easily made directly at the site where the bathhouse was built; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, bound with concrete mortar. The main (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation are usually square shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary - rectangular, section 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made of two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth; coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100-150 mm), filled with water and compacted.

When building a bathhouse with your own hands, you can also make foundation pillars yourself. To do this, you will need a collapsible formwork made of boards, coated on the inside with a non-hardening lubricant such as Emulsol. You need to place iron reinforcement inside the assembled formwork, then pour the concrete mixture.

To cast foundation pillars inside holes dug for them, sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing felt or thick cardboard is used. From the material chosen for the sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm is created, placed in the foundation pit larger diameter- from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is filled with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent the concrete pillar from rising when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then a concrete mixture is poured, which must be thoroughly compacted. Using wire handles pre-fixed to the sliding formwork, it is lifted by swaying by 400 mm, sand is poured on the outside and a new portion of concrete is poured.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation; they are durable, not subject to rot, and their outer surface is quite smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete; their underground part must be coated with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

In the spaces between the foundation pillars of the external walls of the bathhouse and the internal walls of the steam room, brick walls are laid out; their thickness is sufficient - brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried 250 mm into the ground.

The foundation pillars and brick walls between them are raised to a height of 300-400 mm from the ground level; they need to be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. During casting, metal embedments of the required shape are installed at the ends of the pillars - they are designed to fasten the bathhouse frame to the foundation.

When building a bathhouse on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a strip monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

1. Marking a construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
2. Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
3. Add a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70-100 mm).
4. Installation of formwork.
5. Laying reinforcement.
6. Pouring concrete mixture.

The reinforcement laid at the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross-section of at least 12 mm; it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifted to its middle using brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in the proportion 5:3:1 (crushed stone: sand: cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). Calculate the volume of concrete required for pouring strip foundation, quite simple, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

• 0.3 x 0.4 x 22 = 2.64 m3

One of the difficulties in preparing a dry concrete mixture is the lack of scales at construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will be useful to you: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of crushed stone, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation cast into it protrudes 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be pierced repeatedly with a bayonet shovel or a wire probe, and the outer side of the formwork must be tapped with a hammer (we eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait until the foundation is completely cured, approximately 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, after pouring the concrete, the formwork must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the expiration of the period allocated for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to waterproofing it and lifting it in brick rows (if lifting the bathhouse is not required, then after waterproofing we proceed to the cement screed). You will need the following materials:

1. Ruberoid.
2. Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), with a cross-section from 32 to 57 mm.
3. Masonry mesh.
4. Red brick.
5. Masonry mortar.

Roofing felt (roofing felt) is cut into strips sufficient for laying on a concrete foundation, then laid on top of the foundation on bitumen mastic(for roofing felt - tar mastic). The brick is laid using a single-row ligation method: masonry mortar is laid on a layer of roofing material, the first brick row is placed on it “in a butt” (across the foundation axis), then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar is laid and the next brick row is laid, but “in a spoon” (along the axis foundation). Each new row of brickwork is accompanied by a laying of masonry mesh, laying “in a spoon” and “in a poke” alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bonded rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired foundation height.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (mortar composition sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and bath floor

We create the foundation for the stove and assemble the sauna frame. If capital masonry of the heater is planned, it requires an independent foundation, that is, not connected to the main foundation.

The floor in the bathhouse can be clay, earthen, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the bath floor - their task is to relieve bathhouse visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring is raised above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of a wooden bathhouse floor is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rot and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. Wooden flooring wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance, and may require replacement after 6-8 years. It would be more practical for bath flooring tile- it is easier to care for, it is not susceptible to moisture, which easily flows down its surface.

The floors in the bathhouse rooms must be placed at different levels: the steam room floor is 150 mm above the level of the washing room floor (we retain heat), the washing room floor is 30 mm below the floor level in the dressing room (we protect it from water).

Since installing a concrete floor covered with ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to install a concrete floor in a bathhouse. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of medium-fraction crushed stone, laid sequentially. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay roofing felt on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

1. First option- laying a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope towards the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it needs to be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can begin tiling work.
2. Second option- 50 mm cement screed containing perlite (expanded sand). Mixture composition: perlite: cement: water as 5: 1: 3. After a full week has passed since the perlite concrete was laid, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope towards the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Observe the proportion of water exactly!

If the base of the bathhouse is raised significantly above the ground level (from 300 mm), square-section wooden logs (side 150 mm) will be required for flooring. If the dimensions of the bathhouse premises do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the supports for the logs will be the frame logs. For large sizes, additional supports for floor joists will be required; they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700-800 mm. Support pillars for logs it is necessary to place them on a multi-layer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm thick.

Important! Before forming the base to support the logs, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove and build a sewerage system.

The wood for the logs can be oak, larch or coniferous trees; the logs should be treated with tar or an antiseptic before installation.

The flooring solution in this case is as follows: the concrete space between the foundation is covered with roofing felt with the walls overlapping to the height of the floor, covered with slag or expanded clay (a layer of 200 mm of foam can be laid between the layer of roofing felt and bulk insulation), a subfloor of 29 mm is attached to the underside of the joists edged board. Then a PVC film, foil mineral insulation, and another layer of film are laid for vapor barrier. Pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with fine filler on top, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we lay ceramic tiles.

Don't forget to bring the foundation for the stove to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm tongue-and-groove boards made of coniferous wood.

An important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic building materials - this condition is especially true for a steam room!

Bath sewage system

To drain wastewater from a bathhouse you will need: a pit with a water seal, a well for wastewater and pipes that drain dirty water into the pit and then into the wastewater well.

The pit is torn off from the outside of the bathhouse foundation, and gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are inserted into it from the steam room and washing room (metal pipes will quickly rust).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth should be 700 mm, and its cross-section should be 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, and a 110 mm drain pipe(s) from the bathhouse is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drainage, containing at least 2 m3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the further the better. A pipe is supplied to it from the pit, laid at a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After inserting the drain pipe, the main drainage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, and soil is poured on top - in a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully compact each layer.

Before leading the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bathhouse. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit; the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the drain hole.

To prevent freezing in winter, the pit must be covered with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), felt should be placed between them, and the top cover should be covered with expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

Log house, roofing and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bathhouse to order from professional performers; its production is quite difficult. The finished log house in disassembled form must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. The crowns are fastened with steel 25 mm tenon brackets with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The roof structure of the bathhouse includes rafters, sheathing is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of the final roof structure depends on the roof covering with which it will be covered. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the frame (preferably the penultimate one) using tenon brackets. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the installation of a single- or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10° to 60°) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Single-pitch rafters located at an angle are secured with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are connected to each other, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bathhouse can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing felt, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap of at least 500 mm on the walls.

The attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

We make a blind area along the perimeter of the foundation: we completely remove the top layer of soil, go deeper by 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the base of the bathhouse, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) and then level it. We lay expansion joints (19 mm board covered with resin or bitumen, in increments of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), fill with a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - cover with a layer of dry cement of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bathhouse must be covered with bitumen to waterproof it.

Caulking for a sauna log house

Performed to insulate a log house - sealing the cracks between its logs, the material for caulking is traditionally flax tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made ones made from jute and flax fibers: flax batting and felts - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory-made caulking materials over natural ones is their resistance to moths and fungi, and it is easier to work with factory-made material, since it is produced in the form of a continuous strip of a given thickness and width.

The caulking of a log house is carried out during its assembly - the caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the roof is built, full caulking is carried out - on the outside and inside of the log house, and after a year - caulking again (the log house settles - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet; you can make them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking shovel looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, the thickness of the handle is 30 mm, the width of the blade at the base is 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has a round shape: the diameter of the handle is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the diameter of the striking part is 70 mm, its length is 100 mm.

Caulking is done in two ways - “set” or “stretched”. The second way to caulk is as follows: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it there with the help of a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap them around the roller and drive it into the groove using a spatula and a roller - with force, until you are completely sure that the groove (slot) is filled.

The first method of caulking log houses is designed to cover large grooves (slots). We twist the material for caulking into 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the gap. Loops are collected in a quantity sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Rules for caulking:

• First, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only then along the lower edge;
• We begin caulking work from the cracks of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the cracks of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the adjacent one in the nearest wall (from right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

Under no circumstances should you caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the frame to warp and you will have to disassemble/assemble it again. Let us remind you once again: caulking is done in a “bottom-up” direction along the perimeter of the log house.

Installing a stove

There are many design options for bathhouse stoves; they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel, or use built-in heating elements and heated by electricity; they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick kilns in bathhouses they are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”, masonry seams must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness to achieve the greatest efficiency of the stove. Only red brick is used for laying the stoves. The furnace of the stove is led into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are located in the washing room (steam room), and the distance from them to the walls of the washing room must be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast iron or metal stove, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

Heaters installed for those who like to steam are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). Rubble, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the heater chamber. The design of these stoves is extremely simple - similar to kitchen stoves, heaters differ from them by having a larger pipe or the presence of a chamber with stones.

To obtain the highest temperature in the steam room, you need to add cast iron pigs to the stones in a percentage ratio of 80:20 (stones: pigs). For every 1 m 3 of steam room you will need at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron pigs.

By maintaining a distance of 40-50 mm in the furnace between its walls and the water heating boiler, the effect of all-round blowing of the boiler with hot gases and rapid heating of water is achieved.

For better draft, you need to bring the chimney as close to the roof ridge as possible. When laying a chimney through the attic, be sure to fluff the pipe 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass near roofing sheathing and rafters closer than 150 mm (fire safety standards).

Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse

To wash one bathhouse user, at least 8 liters of hot water are required. This amount can be provided in several ways: heat a container of water on a heater, use a gas water heater, or install an electric heater - a boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bathhouse leads from the main house - the water from such a pipeline system must be drained in winter, otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or borehole by installing a submersible pump to pump it in and equipping such a water supply system with purification filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bathhouse, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

You need to extend an independent line to the bathhouse to supply electricity, and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For the air supply you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum cable right away, settling on two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a supporting cable. But it is extremely difficult to carry out installation work with it, because it is too thick (minimum cross-section - 16 mm2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of a bathhouse according to fire safety standards, you need to attach it to special anchor clamps - considering the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is air supply with a VVGng copper cable attached to a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from the cable on a plastic-insulated wire; its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core VVGng cable (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), stretched over the air to the bathhouse, the optimal cross-section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what electrical equipment the owner of the dacha will want to power from it in future.

All junction boxes, sockets and switches, electrical panel should only be outdoor installation. According to fire safety rules, it is prohibited to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing/steam room - only in the dressing room. Don’t joke about the possibility of a short circuit in a wooden structure - all internal wiring of the bathhouse should be done only in a non-flammable corrugated hose, secured with special clips, cable passage through the partitions should only be through a steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in the junction box, socket or lamp so that they enter there from the bottom or side, but not from the top - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps - a metal body, only a glass shade. All connections of the internal cable routing are made only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

To work in the electrical panel and install an RCD, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you are not one yourself!

Installation of partitions, ceilings, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

Internal partitions in the bathhouse can be brick or wood, followed by heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be made of brick, or there are brick inserts in it made of single brick masonry - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior finishing is usually carried out in cases where the bathhouse itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the finishing scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing external and internal finishing, you will have to rebuild ventilation system baths, because log logs will be covered with cladding and will not be able to provide full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - rough and finishing. The rough ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From inside the washing room/steam room, insulation and a vapor barrier film are attached to the rough ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered with a finishing finish - linden, pine tongue and groove board (20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

You need to install windows in the bathhouse small size(on average 500x700 mm) and cut them in low - enough so that the person sitting on the bench can look out through them. The windows in the bathhouse are always double glazed, depending on the size - with a window or completely hinged - for quick ventilation.

Doors in bathhouses must be installed so that they open outward for fire safety reasons. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter; the boards are fastened with dowels. The size of the sashes must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than needed for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when the humidity increases, the sashes will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. The optimal door size in the washing compartment of a bathhouse is 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor (it’s uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep you warm). The hinges for hanging the door leaves are brass, opening into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles are wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, width is 500-800 mm. The distance between the “floors” of two-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to the ceiling covering is 1100 mm.

The lying surface is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, and a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a cross-section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - using nails, the heads of which are recessed into the wood; from below - using screws. For fastening, choose nails and screws made of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the shelf structure are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero-grade sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas are more dense and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to choose boards and timber without any knotty areas or with a minimum number of them.

Fire precautions

Protect the bathhouse premises from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the furnace firebox, make sure the stove doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing means nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure you can open the doors of the steam room and washing room freely when lighting the sauna. Do not block passages or the space in front of doors and windows.