Do-it-yourself sewer pipe installation in an apartment. We make sewerage in the apartment

Dismantling the old sewer system In an apartment, the procedure is in many ways more responsible than in a private house. After all, in case of mistakes, not only your home, but also your neighbors’ apartments may suffer. For this reason, many owners hire a professional team to work with sewerage, whose services are not the cheapest. But if you want to save money and are the happy owner skillful hands, you can replace your apartment sewer system yourself.

The first thing you should do on the way to new system in-house sewage system is to draw a future network. It is important to do this even if you plan to replace pipes and some plumbing equipment, and not remodel sewer scheme, changing the position of sanitary fixtures and the location of pipes.

It is not necessary to draw up a drawing, as is done in design organizations, but the diagram should be as detailed as possible.

The plan should show:

• lengths of all pipes to scale;
• be sure to indicate the diameters of the pipelines, their number, as well as the number and locations of all connecting elements and water seals;
• sketch out the sanitary equipment and its location;
• riser location;
• the number of pipes and the distance from them to the walls;
• location of inspection hatches;
• pipeline slope.

In order to correctly draw up a plan for arranging a drainage system, as well as implement it, it is necessary to take into account the nuances of installing internal sewer network.

Rules for arranging sewerage in an apartment

Since the sewerage replacement will take place in apartment building, in which apartments located above each other have a common riser, then do not forget to notify your neighbors about the upcoming work. After all, you will cause them a number of inconveniences, which is better to warn them about.

In addition, you will have to agree with the organization that maintains the house to turn off the water supply. So, you will at least protect yourself from the activities of forgetful neighbors related to the bathroom.

From a purely technical point of view, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.

1. Many experts do not recommend replacing a cast iron riser unless absolutely necessary, since this material is really durable, and dismantling a cast iron pipe is difficult. difficult process, which, if necessary, is best left to professionals.

   

2. Modern material, most suitable for installation on our own, are pipes and fittings made of plastic.

   

   

3. An important condition when installing wiring is to maintain a slope for each linear meter pipeline. The amount of slope depends on the diameter of the pipe. If the cross-section of the pipes is 5 cm, then the slope should be about 3 cm, with a diameter of 11 cm - 2 cm. Changing the slope should not be allowed either in a larger or smaller direction, because this will ultimately lead to blockage.

   

4. The diameter of the pipes depends on their purpose. The riser, which will receive waste in large portions, should have a cross-section of 100-110 mm. This applies, for example, to a vertical pipe that collects wastewater from a toilet, washing machine and dishwasher.
   If the installation of the latter is not planned, and the bathroom has a separate riser, then the vertical pipeline receiving water from the kitchen can have a diameter of 5 cm. For sewer wiring, it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 4-5 cm.
5. It is important to consider that the sewer system is subject to dynamics during operation. For this reason, when making a socket connection, it is necessary to insert the smooth end of one pipe into the socket of the other not completely, leaving a gap of 10 cm.
   This compensates for the increase in pipe length as temperatures rise. Another dynamic is related to the creation in the pipeline internal tension, which is regulated by two types of fastening the riser using clamps, which will be discussed below.
6. On pipes that drain water from kitchen sinks and dishwashers, it is recommended to install grease traps.

   

7. Of all the plumbing fixtures, the toilet should be located at the lowest point of the intra-apartment sewer network.
8. It is mandatory to have water seals after the plumbing, in which liquid remains, preventing the penetration of fetid odors into the room.

   

   Water seal for sewerage

9. If, during the operation of the old network, a characteristic odor emanated from the plumbing drains, and during the flushing of water from the toilet or washing machine a loud squelching sound was heard from the pipes, this indicates poor ventilation boner Perhaps it's clogged fan pipe. Then you need to call a locksmith from the organization servicing your home. However, in some cases, simply cleaning the ventilation is not enough. Then the riser is equipped with a check valve.

   

After all the measurements have been made, a diagram has been drawn up, taking into account all the nuances, and the necessary materials have been selected and purchased, you can begin the dismantling process if we are talking about replacing the old network.

Dismantling the old network

Used pipes can only be removed when the water supply is turned off.

They start by dismantling the riser. It’s easier if this vertical pipe is replaced at the same time for all neighbors. However, this option is rare.

It is much more common to change the system in only one apartment. Let's consider this option.

Work related to dismantling the riser is dangerous and requires a certain skill, so it is better to invite a specialist to carry it out. In any case, you can’t do without a partner.

Step 1. Secure the riser from above using two half-brackets connected to each other with studs mounted into the wall. A rubber gasket must be placed between the half-brackets and the pipe itself. This measure will allow, when removing part of the riser, not only to avoid the fall of its section coming from the neighbors living above, but also to compensate for the vibration that will appear during the dismantling process.

Step 2. First, all plumbing fixtures are separated from the sewer network. The bathroom is emptied as much as possible.

Step 3. Cut off the pipe going to the tee, leaving small area pipeline. This measure will make it easier to dismantle the tee in the future.

Note! Cutting old pipes must be done carefully not only if you plan to preserve the riser or at least the tee. The reason for caution is the fragility of cast iron. During dismantling, vibration is created, which can damage the riser itself, and a fragment can clog the pipe.

Step 4. 2 oblique cuts are made in the center of the riser so that the maximum distance between them is 12 cm.

Step 5. By inserting wedges first into the lower and then into the upper cut, using a chisel and hammer, carefully remove the section of pipe between the cuts.

Step 6. While one person is holding on top old pipe, the other cleans the top joint of old pipes. If the sealing is done using sulfur, then you can heat the joint with a burner. The sulfur will melt and can be removed with a knife.

Step 7. Rock the pipe together with the crosspiece in order to then pull them out of the socket of the pipe going to the neighbors below. This joint can also be secured with sulfur.

Step 8. Clean the socket of the pipe going to the neighbors from the old sealant.

The old riser has been removed and you can begin installing a new one.

Installation of a new riser

If you removed not only part of the riser, but also the tee, installation of the vertical pipe can be done according to the following scheme.

Step 1.

Step 2. Now a tee is installed in the socket.

Note! In some cases, the connection between the cross and the socket may not seem strong enough. This can be corrected by using special silicone or plumbing tow.

Step 3. Mark the axis of the riser on the wall with a pencil.

Step 4. Assemble the riser without rubber seals and install it in place for testing. At this point, you can mark the mounting locations of the fasteners on the wall. IN standard apartments 3-4 clamps are enough. If there are any errors in the assembly of the riser, they are corrected.

Note! Don't forget about the inspection hatches on the riser. They will help in inspecting the vertical pipe for blockages and cleaning it.

Step 5. Mount the brackets into the wall.

Note! It is advisable to use brackets, since it is not recommended to install the pipe close to the wall.

Step 6. Assemble the riser for finishing, this time using rubber seals and hermetic lubricant. At the top it is connected to a cast iron pipe with a cuff, and the lower part is inserted into the tee. Fix the riser to the wall with clamps.

There are 2 types of fixation.

1. Used near sockets rigid mount, carried out using tightly tightened clamps with rubber gaskets.
2. Additional fixation can be achieved with a floating connection, which is made with the same clamps. In this case, a rubber gasket is not used, and the fasteners are not tightened too much.

The installation of the riser is complete. You can start wiring.

Video - Replacing a sewer riser

Dwell in detail on the dismantling of old horizontal sewer pipes doesn't make sense. The main thing is to free the pipes from the concrete and carefully disconnect them from the tee. Since the pipeline is old and there is no need to maintain its integrity, dismantling it is much easier.

The principle of installing new wiring is not much different from installing a riser.

Step 1. First, draw the axis of future pipes on the wall with a pencil, observing the slope. Often a groove is made in the wall, in which wiring secured with clamps is laid.

Note! The width of the groove should be slightly larger diameter pipeline laid in it.

Step 2. Roughly assemble the pipeline without gaskets and attach it to the wall.

Note! The sockets must face the movement of water.

Step 3. Assemble the pipeline from its entry point into the tee to the plumbing fixtures. All connections are made using rubber seal and sealant. The ends of the pipes must be chamfered and free from irregularities.

Hidden plumbing and sewerage

Step 4. Fix the pipe to the wall using clamps, which should be located at a distance of no more than half a meter from each other.

Note! Some of the clamps must rigidly fix the pipe, while in others the pipeline must have a floating stroke to compensate for the vibration of the pipes during the movement of water.

Step 5. The toilet is connected to the riser using a corrugated pipe with a diameter of at least 10 cm.

Step 6. Connect the rest of the sanitary equipment to the wiring.

After installation, carry out first visual inspection for tightness. Then you can turn on the water and use it to accurately check the strength of the connections.

Video - How to connect metal-plastic pipes

Checking pipe joints

To make sure that the pipes are tightly connected to each other in the outlet and riser, you must proceed as follows.

1. Drain the bathtub by closing the overflow hole.
2. Release the drains and simultaneously open the hot and cold valves. cold water at full capacity.
3. Plug the toilet drain hole. It is convenient to use a plunger for this.
4. Fill the toilet with a bucket of water to the brim and open the drain.
5. Ask the neighbors above to drain the water to check the tightness of the riser.

If the work is done efficiently, there should be no water at all at the joints.

Such difficult work has to be done to replace the sewer network inside the apartment. If you doubt that you can do it efficiently and in short term, then contact a specialist. After all, the neighbors also don’t come and wait while you figure out the nuances of dismantling the old and installing a new network on site.

Video - Laying plastic sewerage

All wastewater from the apartment's numerous plumbing fixtures is discharged through sewer pipes. Developers undertake their installation, but homeowners have to deal with repairs and replacement of utilities. Sometimes a new building requires laying a sewer system from scratch. The installation work can be entrusted to plumbers, but if there is free time and the desire to save money, then the sewage system in the apartment is installed with your own hands and independently. The main thing is to know how to install pipes and connect plumbing.

The first stage is planning

Before laying pipes and installing plumbing, it is necessary to plan the sewer system. The scheme includes the following elements:

• locations of plumbing fixtures: toilet, sink, shower, bathtub, dishwasher, bidet;
• length and diameter of pipes;
• distance from walls to plumbing and pipes;
• riser location;
• diameter of siphons for connecting sinks and bathtubs;
• quantity connecting elements(fittings);
• location of inspection points.

If there are no plans to connect new points, then you do not need to change the existing sewerage layout. This will make it easier to calculate the required material. The length of all pipes is measured on site; if they pass through a wall, then the size of each section will be required.

The diameter of sewer pipes is not chosen arbitrarily; there are recommendations for their size:

• for the riser section – 110 mm;
• for a toilet – 110 mm;
• for baths, sinks and other appliances – 50 mm.

To connect some devices, a 32 mm pipe is sometimes used.

You also don’t have to choose the slope yourself; pipes with a diameter of up to 50 mm are located at an angle of 3º, and 110 mm - 2º. This means that on an area of ​​1 meter the slope changes by 3 and 2 cm, respectively. Correct location The main ensures the movement of water in a gravity system.

Material selection

The sewage system in the apartment is installed from plastic; it is more difficult to work with cast iron pipes. Three types of polymer pipes are used: polyvinyl chloride, propylene and polyethylene. These products are similar in appearance and properties:

• smooth surface on which deposits do not accumulate;
• strength, corrosion resistance;
• a light weight;
• durability;
• installation does not require welding.

To connect pipes, special elements are required: bends, tees, metal transitions, cuffs. It's better to buy all required material from one manufacturer, this guarantees the accuracy of all diameters. Sealing the joints will require silicone grease, which is also purchased in advance. So, for work we will need:

• plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 and 110 mm;
• fitting;
• sealing cuffs;
• plastic clamps selected according to the cross-section of the pipes;
• inspection hatch, which is installed on a common riser;
• silicone sealant.

Tools:

• perforator;
• Bulgarian;
• hammer;
• hacksaw;
• chisel;
• adjustable wrenches of various sizes.

Sewer replacement begins with the riser. This is the most difficult area; drains from neighboring apartments pass through it, so while the pipe is being replaced, neighbors should be asked not to use the sewer for a while. Dismantling proceeds as follows:

1. Access is provided to the junction of the riser with the neighboring site. This may require breaking up part of the floor.
2. Part of the cast iron pipe is cut out with a grinder. If it is not possible to cut through completely, then it can be broken with a hammer. The work must be carried out carefully, since a broken piece of pipe may remain inside and block the entire pipe.
3. A tee is installed at the bottom of the riser near the floor. The straight plastic pipe chosen for the riser is connected at the top to the rest of the cast iron pipe using an adapter collar. Fastening with a tee is carried out with a socket. The tightness of the joint is ensured by a rubber ring and silicone sealant.
4. The pipe is attached to the wall with clamps. In the area of ​​the sockets the pipe is fixed rigidly, in other places the fixation is floating.

Having finished installing the riser, we begin wiring.

Installation of sewer system

All plumbing fixtures are disconnected from the pipes that need to be removed. After removing the old system, the location of the new highway is marked. When installing a pipeline, straight sections are preferable; bends and turns, which cause blockages, should be minimal amount. Correct installation sewerage with a small number of connections and a maintained angle of inclination ensures self-cleaning of the system. With each flush, the stream carries away the residue from the previous stream.

You can mark the slope of the pipes using a line on the wall or a cord attached to the highest and lowest point sewer system. Using this marking, the installation locations of the fasteners are determined; for pipes Ø 50 mm, clamps are placed every 50 cm. To relieve stress in the pipes, it is necessary to combine two types of fastening:

• rigid - the pipe is fixed with a clamp with a rubber gasket;
• floating - the fastener allows the pipe to move; it is performed without a rubber insert.

Before installing pipes, you need to chamfer them and clean the edges to avoid burrs. The inside surface of the pipe and fitting must be clean and dry. When making a connection, the end of the pipe is inserted into the socket until it fits tightly. To enhance the tightness, silicone grease is applied to the rubber ring. The bells must be positioned along the flow of water. During the operation of the sewer system, thermal deformation of the plastic occurs. To prevent the seam from losing its tightness when the material expands, leave a gap of 1 cm. This is done like this: the pipe is inserted into the socket until it stops, then a mark of 10 mm is made and the part is pulled back to this mark.

So you don't have to redo it ready-made system, it is worth carrying out a trial installation without sealed connections. Once you are satisfied that the installation is correct and all parts are present, you can perform final assembly.

1. Only straight plastic pipes can be cut. Most often, at home, the cut is made with a hacksaw, always at an angle of 90º.
2. If necessary, make a turn, it is better to use two 45º bends. They do not break up moving drains so dramatically, so they become clogged less often.
3. The toilet is connected to the system first, then the rest of the plumbing fixtures.
4. In difficult areas, a segment called revision is installed. It has a hole covered with a rubber cover, through which you can inspect the inner surface of the pipe.
5. Some plumbing is connected directly to the sewer, but there are devices that require the installation of a siphon. This is a device with a bend in the form of an elbow, inside of which there is always water for a water seal. Siphon does not work unpleasant odors from the sewer system to spread indoors.
6. Sewerage installation is carried out not only along the walls, but also in the groove. Before being placed in the wall, the pipes are wrapped soft material to reduce noise. To prevent cement from getting into the joints, they are sealed with tape. In the grooves, the pipes are fixed in a floating manner.
7. The ends of the horizontal bends are closed with plugs.

After installation it is necessary to check the tightness assembled system at all sections of the distribution throughout the apartment and at the junction with the riser. The reliability of the connection of the new riser with the neighbor's pipe is checked after draining the water in the upper apartment. To check, water is drawn into the bathroom, and then the plug is removed, both taps in the kitchen are opened, and the water in the toilet is drained. The reliability of the joints is easy to assess - they all must be dry.

Video

This video shows how to replace an apartment cast-iron sewer line in a Stalinka building with a plastic one:

Photo

Often, in the process of renovating an apartment, they not only do new finishing walls, floors and ceilings, but also the transfer of plumbing fixtures - sinks, bathtubs, washbasins or showers. And this, in turn, leads to the re-routing of the apartment sewer system, changing the network configuration, and replacing the elements from which the sewer system is installed.

Since the project is not always carried out beforehand by specialists from the design organization. Therefore, the transfer of networks may lead to a violation of current sanitary and building codes, which are presented to the sewerage device.

To prevent this, you should adhere to the recommendations set out in SNiP.

Let's find out in this article how to make a sewer system in an apartment to ensure drainage Wastewater from sanitary fixtures and not to violate current standards.

Principles of sewerage design

The main condition reliable operation Any sewer network requires a correctly selected diameter and slope of pipelines. It would seem - what could be simpler? I took bigger pipes, that's all. But this is not entirely true.

In order for wastewater, along with the contaminants it contains, to move freely through the pipes, you should choose correct slope. The slope is directly related to the diameter of the pipe. And the diameter of the pipe is dictated by the flow of wastewater.

If the selected sewer diameter turns out to be larger than required, the requirements for filling the pipeline and non-silting speed of drainage will not be met, which can over time lead to the appearance of silt deposits inside the pipe, which cause subsequent blockage.

In turn, a diameter less than the required one can lead to the fact that the water simply will not have time to leave, since the pipe will not be able to pass the required volume of water.

The fillability of pipes with water with a diameter of up to 200 mm should be approximately 0.6. Filling capacity is defined as the ratio of the liquid height to the pipe diameter (h/d):

Sewage diameters and slopes

In order not to rack your brains every time when connecting each sink or bathtub, we decided that for laying house sewerage It is enough to use certain diameters and slopes, which are guaranteed to meet all the requirements for the sewerage system - its slopes and diameter.

These diameters and slopes directly depend on the type of plumbing equipment that is connected to the sewer network and the per second costs from them. All these costs can be found in Table A.1 of Appendix A SP 30.13330.2012 “Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings”.

Thus, the highest second flow that sewer pipes in a residential building should be able to pass is approximately 1.6 l/s. This is the flow rate at which the drains move when you flush the toilet. To pass such a flow, pipes with an internal diameter of 100 mm are used.

From sinks, washbasins and shower cabins the costs are much lower and for their disposal, as a rule, pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm are sufficient.

In general, for laying sewerage in an apartment, you can use the slopes and diameters shown in the table below:

Device type	Connection diameter	Slope
		Nominal	Minimum
Sink
Urinal, washbasin, bathtub

A slope of 0.02 means that when laid, for every 100 cm of its length the pipe will drop by 2 cm. And with a slope of 0.035, for every meter of pipe the drop will be 3.5 cm.

If you stick to these diameters and slopes, you can't go wrong.

In general, sometimes it is convenient to use minimum slopes, which are very easy to determine. To do this, it is enough to divide one by inner diameter pipes in millimeters. In this way, you can quickly estimate offhand how much the sewer pipe will go down during installation in order to understand at what level to start laying. So, for example, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm can be laid with minimum slope 1/200 = 0,005.

Video on how to lay a sewer with the required slope, you can see below:

Requirements for laying sewerage

It was already said above that each section of sewer pipes must ensure the passage of the necessary flows and have a certain slope. But there are still some sewer installation requirements that you should know before starting the sewer project.

One of the main rules (clause 8.2.2. SP 30.13330.2012) states the following:
“Sections of the sewer network should be laid in a straight line. Changing the direction of laying is done using special connecting parts.”

That is, you cannot take and bend, for example, a polymer pipe, simply by heating it with a burner. All changes in the direction of laying must be carried out using bends, half-bends, tees, and crosses.

Another rule (clause 8.2.5. SP 30.13330.2012) tells us that:
“Bilateral connection of drain pipes from bathtubs to one riser at the same level is allowed only with the use of oblique crosses. Connect sanitary fixtures located in different apartments on the same floor, to the same pipeline is not allowed.”

That is, in other words, you can connect the drain pipes from the kitchen appliances and from the bathroom plumbing to one riser, but for this you will need to use an oblique cross. A straight cross will not work here.

But it will no longer be possible to connect plumbing fixtures located in different apartments to one riser. And in fact, suddenly a blockage occurs, you will need to quickly take measures to clear it, but you won’t be able to get to the place of the blockage, since the owner of the apartment has simply left somewhere.

In addition to these requirements, when designing indoor sewage systems, the following rules should be taken into account:

1. Sewerage is allowed to be laid openly in underground areas, technical floors, as well as in special rooms for laying utility networks. In other cases, sewer pipes must be laid hidden in special attached boxes (for example, in plasterboard boxes), in false ceilings, under baseboards in the floor, in special shafts and grooves.
2. To provide fire safety SNiP prescribes the laying of sewer pipes from polymer materials hidden behind structures whose flammability level is not lower than G2.
3. Passages of sewer risers through interfloor ceilings must be done with sealing cement mortar over the entire thickness of the ceiling, and above the ceiling - to a height of 8-10 cm.

It seems that no questions should arise here, since each of the requirements is quite reasonable and is aimed at ensuring sanitary and fire safety standards in the premises.

Just below you can watch a video on how to make a pipe box in the bathroom and tile it:

Where can you not lay sewerage in a residential area?

In accordance with the current SNiP standards, laying sewerage is not allowed under the ceiling, in the walls or in the floor. living rooms, kitchens and sleeping areas. Therefore, before installing a sewer system in an apartment, you should make sure that the wiring diagram excludes network passages that are prohibited for its installation.

As a rule, when installing sewerage in an apartment, this requirement is rarely violated. And in fact, who would even think of laying a sewer under the ceiling in the bedroom or living room?

But now, if you own own home, in order to comply with this rule, it is necessary in advance, at the stage of the architectural planning project, to arrange the premises so that the rooms are above the rooms, and the bathrooms and baths are above the bathrooms and bathrooms.

Sewerage outlets for residential and public premises

If there are residential apartments and public premises (post office, store, etc.) in the same building, the sewer outlets for them must be arranged separately.

At enterprises, connect industrial sewerage systems transporting wastewater containing flammable and flammable liquids to the network domestic sewerage and gutters are not allowed.

But this rule is unlikely to be useful to you when relaying pipes inside your home. However, this requirement is very relevant where flammable liquids are discharged. In addition, this requirement results in a ban on flushing various solvents (acetone, gasoline, etc.) into the toilet during repairs

Where are sewer inspections and cleanings installed?

Clogging of the sewer during its operation is not such a rare thing, and therefore, in order to be able to quickly clean the internal sewer network, it is necessary to install special elements - cleaning and revisions.

Inspection differs from cleaning in that it is installed on sewer riser, and cleaning - on a horizontal section of the outlet pipeline. They are small hatches directly on the sewer pipe, closed with a lid held in place with bolts (on cast iron pipes) or threaded (on plastic pipelines).

If a blockage occurs, the plumber will need to open the revision or clean it out and destroy it with a plumbing cable:

Inspections and cleanings are not carried out at random, but in strictly defined places. The installation locations for cleaning and inspection are listed in clause 8.2.23. SP 30.13330.2012:

• on risers, if there are no indentations on them - in the lower and upper floors, and in the presence of indentations - also in the floors located above the indentations;
• in residential buildings with a height of 5 floors or more - at least every three floors;
• at the beginning of sections (along the movement of wastewater) of drain pipes when the number of connected devices is 3 or more, under which there are no cleaning devices;
• at network turns - when changing the direction of movement of wastewater, if sections of the pipeline cannot be cleaned through other sections;
• in passage tunnels.

As you can see, the installation locations for cleaning and revisions allow you to use them for cleaning plumbing cable short in length, located in close proximity to places possible blockage– before turns and indentations.

The distance between inspections and sewer cleanings is determined according to Table 4 of SP 30.13330.2012:

Distance between inspections and cleaning depending on the type of wastewater, m				Type of cleaning device
Pipeline diameter, mm	Industrial uncontaminated drains and drains	Household and industrial, close to them	Production containing a large number of suspended solids
				Cleaning
				Cleaning
200 or more

Inspections and cleanings are installed so that they are easily accessible. If the network is laid under the ceiling, then the cleaning should be carried out to the floor above, and if the network goes under the floor, the inspection hatch is located in a small recess in the floor, closed by a lid (hatch).

Installation of hatches for sewerage maintenance

In order to provide access to the sewerage system for its maintenance, hatches should be installed in certain places to allow access to cleanings and inspections if necessary (clause 8.2.13. SP 30.13330.2012). The size of the hatch should be no more than 0.1 square meters.

Installing plumbing fixtures in the basement

In some cases, it may be necessary to install a sink or other plumbing fixture in the basement or ground floor. In this case, the side of the plumbing fixture is lower than the neck of the hatch sewer well and if it floods, the basement may be filled with sewage.

To prevent this from happening, such plumbing fixtures are connected to a separate sewerage system that is not connected to the sewerage system of the rooms above, and an automated shut-off valve is installed at the outlet, which, in the event of flooding, closes the outlet, preventing wastewater from entering it. external network and basement flooding.

Instead of an electric valve, you can install a pump that will turn on when water is used and pump the wastewater to a higher level, as shown in the figure below:

Length of sewer outlet to first well

If you have your own home, you should know that the maximum distance from cleaning to the axis of the first well in the direction of movement of wastewater in the external sewer network is regulated by the values ​​​​given in Table 5 of SP 30.13330.2012:

Why do you need a water seal?

To prevent the stench from the sewer network from penetrating inside our apartments, engineers came up with a very simple, but very effective solution– connect all plumbing fixtures to the sewer through a water seal.

A water seal is a bend in a pipe that drains drainage from a plumbing fixture, in the shape of the Latin letter S. You can see what a water seal looks like in cross-section in the figure below:

The design of the water seal is simply genius. After draining the water, a small amount of liquid remains in it, which reliably blocks the pipe, preventing odors from leaking through it from the sewer.

However, in some cases, a water seal may not prevent unpleasant odors from entering the room. Typically, this happens in two cases:

• the water in the water seal has dried up and air from the sewer began to freely penetrate into the room;
• the water seal failed.

In the first case, everything is clear - if you do not use a plumbing fixture for a long time, the water in the water seal simply dries out, opening the way for unpleasant odors. Therefore, if you are planning to go somewhere for long time, you can protect yourself from drying out by pouring it into the toilet or sink vegetable oil, which will prevent water from evaporating and protect the water plug from drying out.

In the second case, everything is somewhat more complicated. The water seal may fail due to the fact that when moving along the riser large mass water, a vacuum is formed behind it, which can cause a breakdown. The water from the water seal will simply be sucked out by this vacuum.

If the sewerage system in your apartment is leaking, this problem must be resolved immediately. But not everyone can afford the challenge good master, and someone wants to try to cope on their own. It happens that constant cleaning of pipes does not produce results due to their advanced age or incorrect angle of inclination. The problems may be different, but the solution is the same - searching through the entire system.

If you do not have the required experience, installing a sewer system in an apartment will be a serious challenge. The slightest mistake can end badly, so you should think carefully before getting to work yourself. If you do decide, follow all instructions carefully to achieve the expected result.

Stages of installing sewerage in an apartment

Drawing up a diagram

Before going to the store and starting work, be sure to draw a diagram of the installation of all equipment. If the sewer system is working properly, it is enough to simply redraw what is already there. If the arrangement of elements, material or diameter changes, ask a specialist to check the circuit; it will cost less than correcting errors in an already installed system.

Incorrect angle of inclination of pipes leads to rapid clogging of the sewer system. Many people mistakenly think that the larger this parameter, the better all waste flows off. But for proper operation the system needs to create a self-cleaning effect so that liquid sewage washes away more solid ones. The thinner the diameter, the greater the angle of inclination. To create the desired angle, make a vertical section of pipe to the desired level. A few specific meanings:

There are a few details to consider:

• The angle in the horizontal plane should not exceed 120 degrees.
• The rigid connection for the siphon should not be more than 1.5 m, and the corrugated one 0.8 m.
• Mandatory elements in the diagram: location of the central riser, all fittings and bends, indications of dimensions and location relative to the walls.
• If pipes pass through rooms other than the bathroom and kitchen, draw them too.
• To connect a washing machine and dishwasher there is no need to observe the angle of inclination, since water is removed from these devices with additional effort.
• It is better to avoid right angles, as they will cause blockages more often.

Purchasing the necessary parts

Pay attention to the type of plastic the pipes are made from. Three types are especially popular now.

• Polyethylene. Cheap, but it is not completely sealed and does not withstand high temperatures. We do not recommend using it.

• PVC. Withstands temperatures up to 80 degrees. It can only be cleaned with ultrasound and a plunger, but it is inexpensive and has low hydraulic resistance.

• Polyisopropylene. Durable and heat resistant. You can clean it with a cable and any chemicals, except for alkali and acid concentrates.

Plastic pipes make noise during operation, so think about insulation in advance. Any neutral sealant is suitable for polyisopropylene, but only silicone is used for PVC.

Choose pipes of the required length so as not to cut them later. Sometimes it’s even worth changing the design to save time and materials.

Preparation for installation

To avoid trouble when dismantling and installing a sewer system, do all of the following.

• Warn neighbors above and below not to use the toilet and water.
• Organize the shutdown of the riser valves in the basement.
• Cover the walls and floor of the toilet or bathtub with polyethylene.
• Choose clothes that you won't mind throwing away.
• Strengthen the riser at the top. It is recommended to install 2 half-clamps on anchors with a diameter of more than 12 mm.
• When working with plumbing, a lot of dirt always forms, so stock up on garbage bags.

First, try on the pipes, pay attention to all difficult places for installation, and draw up a work plan. Mark on the walls the places where pipes are connected and where anchors are installed to make it easier to install the system.

Try to assemble the entire pipeline by simply connecting its parts together. Cut the pipes to the required length, leaving 10-15 mm in reserve on the free side. Use a miter box and a hacksaw, maintaining a 90 degree angle, otherwise you will not achieve a complete seal.

Dismantling

When replacing plastic pipes with new ones made of the same material, they can simply be removed. If you need to dismantle cast iron, you will have to use a diamond-coated grinder. Professionals sometimes use a hammer, but when large volume work, you will spend a lot of time with such a tool. First, the pipes are disconnected from the walls and the plumbing is removed, while marking the location of the bathtub, sink and other items with a pencil. Before starting work, do not forget to turn off the water and warn your neighbors.

If you perform dismantling with a hammer, you need to apply strong blows on the protruding parts to split and loosen them. Wear safety glasses or cover your eyes as pieces of cast iron may cause eye damage.

When cutting cast iron, be sure to wear a respirator, as the resulting dust is very harmful to health.

You should start disassembling the pipeline from the “tee”, the junction of the apartment sewerage system with the riser.

• Disconnect the pipes leading to the tee.
• Make a neat cut 10 cm from the riser. Be sure to use a grinder or a hacksaw, as using a hammer can damage important parts of the riser. Sometimes it is not possible to remove the “tee” the first time. If it does not give in, make a second cut. Insert a wedge, chisel, or flathead screwdriver. Then strike carefully and precisely. Gradually loosen the pipe. In particular difficult cases you will have to heat the junction with the riser.
• Clean the bell of any excess. This will allow you to install the new riser pipe efficiently.
• Disassemble the remaining pipeline.
• Plug all holes with rags. If everything is done carefully, you can turn on the water in the house.

Installation

It is customary to start work from the riser and connect the pipes to the toilet, bathtub and other plumbing at the end.

• Install the adapter from cast iron to plastic. The installation principle depends on the design of the cuff.

• Insert the first section into the cuff and check that everything is in place.
• Apply a thin layer of sealant inside the pipe and outside the connected pipe. Unlike rubber gaskets, plastic ones also need to be processed. Wrap the joint in plastic. Then level the sealant layer using a brush or piece of cloth. In order for the pipes to hold well, you first need to insert them all the way, and then move them 10-15 mm back.
• Assemble the entire system, the toilet is installed last.

• Check for leaks.

Conclusion

Sewerage in an apartment with your own hands is not as simple a matter as some may think. Try just making a diagram first. If you are not confident in your abilities, do not get started. Correcting errors will cost more than calling a professional. If you decide to do all the work yourself, we hope that the above tips will be useful to you.

An old sewer can cause a lot of trouble for apartment owners, as it often becomes clogged and sometimes even emits an unpleasant odor. Of course, replacing it is quite expensive, however, by doing this work yourself, you can save a lot. To help in this matter, next we will look at how to install a new sewer system in an apartment with your own hands.

Sewage device

First of all, you need to familiarize yourself with the sewerage system. The system includes several elements:

Scheme - sewage system in an apartment

Slopes

The most important thing when installing a sewer system is to correctly slope the outlet pipes. The fact is that at small slopes the liquid will not drain, but at large slopes the water will drain quickly, but at the same time solid waste will remain in the system. Thus, no matter how paradoxical it may sound, excessive “leaking” leads to constant blockages of the system.

According to SNiP requirements, when installing a pipeline, the following minimum slopes must be observed:

• With a pipe diameter of 50 mm - 3 cm per meter;
• 110 mm – 2 cm per meter;
• 200 mm – 0.7 cm per meter.

Concerning maximum slope, then it should not exceed 15 cm per meter. An exception is the bends of plumbing fixtures, the length of which should not exceed one and a half meters.

Note! The connection of sewer pipes is allowed to be made at right angles only in a vertical plane.

Pipe diameters

As a rule, sewer pipes in an apartment with a diameter of 50 mm are used. The exception is drain pipes from the toilet and riser, the diameter of which is usually 110 mm.

It must be said that sometimes there are risers with a diameter of 150 or even 200 millimeters. Therefore, before purchasing a replacement, you should measure the old riser.

Materials for the sewer system

Before installing sewerage in an apartment with your own hands, you need to purchase everything necessary elements. And to do this, you first need to decide on the pipe material.

Usually, internal sewerage made from the following materials:

• Cast iron– quite durable and fireproof, but has a number of disadvantages, such as heavy weight and high cost. Therefore, cast iron systems are Lately practically not used.
• PVC– is the most common material for sewer systems. Disadvantages include instability to exposure high temperatures. In addition, they are quite noisy, however, soundproofing the sewer pipes in the apartment can solve this problem.
• Polyethylene – this material It should not be considered as an option for sewerage, as it is unstable to deformation, is not heat-resistant and does not provide reliable sealing of the system.
• Polyisopropylene– not such a smooth material as polyvinyl chloride, moreover, its price is slightly higher PVC pipes. However, it can withstand temperatures up to 130 degrees, and is also resistant to mechanical and chemical influences.

Sewer replacement

Preparation

Now let’s take a closer look at how to properly install a sewer system in an apartment. You should start with preparatory work. Of course, first of all you need to prepare the premises - take out the furniture and lay the floor.

Mandatory condition for replacement old sewer is to securely secure the old riser under the ceiling. You should not rely on interfloor fastenings, as over time they rust and weaken. Therefore, when dismantling the riser, all the upper sections may end up in your apartment.

The fastening can be done using a clamp with a pin, which must extend at least 120 mm into the wall. To ensure reliable installation, the stud must be cemented.

In addition, you should notify your neighbors in advance about upcoming work in your apartment and turn off the water.

Scheme

If you just need to replace the sewer pipes in your apartment, then you don’t have to carry out the diagram. But if the location of plumbing fixtures is changed, then first of all you should decide on paper how to lay the sewer system in the apartment. This will allow you to avoid mistakes during work and calculate in advance required amount materials.

The diagram should show:

• All premises in which work will be performed.
• Dimensions of rooms and pipelines.
• All service elements, such as inspection and cleaning bends, fittings, etc.
• Location of the central riser.

After the scheme is completed, you can proceed directly to work.

Dismantling

First of all, you need to dismantle the old system yourself. If the sewer is plastic, then the work will not be difficult, but if it is cast iron, then some difficulties may arise.

You can only break pipes with a hammer in a private house on the ground floor. In all other cases, the easiest way is to make cuts in the socket and wedge them with a screwdriver or chisel. Another option is to warm up the joints blowtorch and loosening to disconnect the pipes.

To disassemble the riser, you first need to cut off its lower part. The whole difficulty lies in the fact that cast iron elements are very heavy. Therefore, the work must be done carefully.

After the main part of the system has been disassembled, it is necessary to free the plumbing fixtures from the sewer and dismantle them if the plumbing fixtures will also be changed.

Rough editing

Next, rough installation is performed, which is carried out without sealing the connections. You just need to insert the ends of the joints into the sockets with gaskets. At this stage, the pipes are cut in accordance with the dimensions in the diagram and taking into account a margin of 10-15 mm.

The pipes must be cut strictly at 90 degrees, so it is better to perform the operation in a miter box. A hacksaw is usually used for cutting. After cutting off excess sections of pipes, you should cut off the chamfer with a mounting knife, since burrs can cause permanent blockages in the system.

Note! Only straight ends of pipes can be cut, since cutting the socket will make the pipe unsuitable for installation.

At the stage rough editing All tees/splitters must be positioned correctly. The installation locations of plumbing fixtures should be marked on the walls with a pencil.

Finish installation

The work is performed in this order:

• A plastic-cast iron adapter is inserted into the riser outlet located under the ceiling.
• Then the first section of the riser should be inserted into the cuff and sealed with sealant.
• Tees for wiring are installed in the lower part of the riser. At this stage, the toilet pipe is adjusted to the exact size and the toilet itself is installed in place.
• Next, according to the same principle as assembling the riser, the rest of the pipeline is installed.
• Then the plumbing fixtures are put into place and their siphons are installed.
• To complete the work, siphon outlet pipes are inserted into the sewer pipes.

So, the sewage system in the apartment is ready. After the sealant has hardened at the pipe joints, you should check the pipeline for leaks.

Advice! In order to encounter clogging of the system as little as possible, special meshes should be used on plumbing fixtures. Such a simple filter in the apartment sewer systems will prevent hair and large objects from penetrating into them, which can form a blockage.