Insulation of a timber house from the inside: choice of material and sequence of work. Stages of insulating a house made of timber from the inside. What is the best way to insulate a timber house from the inside?

Among the advantages of houses made of timber are the naturalness of the wall material, environmental friendliness and good ventilation. Despite the advantages, over time the thermal conductivity of such buildings decreases, larger gaps form in the walls, and drafts begin to appear. Warm air quickly leaves the home. To solve this problem, additional insulation of a timber house is necessary.

You need to insulate your home with non-flammable, environmentally friendly and durable material. To choose the right one, you should familiarize yourself with the features of each insulation. You can do the job efficiently only after familiarizing yourself with the main points regarding insulation.

The first step is always to prepare the surface for further work. First, you need to evaluate the walls and check how well all previous activities were carried out. Small cracks and defects may form at the joints. It is better to fix all this at the first stage. After construction, the house will shrink, because the lack of caulking, small cracks are sealed up.

The initial stage includes the removal of all foreign elements that may interfere with insulation wooden house from timber. If the work is done inside, all hanging structures are removed and the surface is cleared. External measures include the removal of all nearby plantings that touch the house. In both cases, dust and dirt are removed.

After cleaning the walls, they are treated with a fire retardant solution and an antiseptic. Coat several times, use a roller for this. The brush can be used to get into hard-to-reach places. After the walls have dried, their condition is assessed and the need for additional caulking is required. Cracks are repaired with jute fiber and a chisel.

Important! No thermal insulator will make a house better if it has large cracks and chips. Work does not begin until they are completely eliminated.

Insulation of walls in a timber house

After carrying out the above measures, you can begin insulating the walls. The material is selected, the possibility of carrying out work outside and inside is assessed. The optimal option is being considered. To choose the right one, you need to familiarize yourself with the pros and cons of each method.

Advantages and disadvantages of internal and external wall insulation

The first advantage of internal insulation is its low cost. No special equipment is required here to rise to great heights. The turnaround time is much shorter. You can make the walls much smoother. You can perform the necessary actions at any time of the year.

But there are disadvantages:

  • You have to sacrifice living space if bulk insulation material is used.
  • The dew point shifts, moisture condensation takes place in a different plane. If the work is done incorrectly, this can lead to freezing of the walls, or their constant moisture. The offset of the point will be inside the room. For external insulation - outwards.
  • There is a risk of mold formation and blackening of the walls.
  • The cracks and joints that are located outside the house will still have to be sealed.

The main advantage of external insulation is higher efficiency. The materials used will preserve more heat. The dew point moves outward, so the walls will not become moldy. The useful volume of the room does not decrease. Disadvantages: high cost compared to internal work; seasonality and weather dependence.

Choosing a material for external insulation of a timber house

For high-quality insulation It is worth considering the characteristics of each insulation. They differ in characteristics, service life, degree of environmental friendliness and installation features. The price of products varies greatly.

Mineral wool and its analogues

Using this insulation, you can carry out work inside and outside the house. The material is “breathable”, which is necessary for wooden walls. The material is not destroyed by rodents and insects, and mold does not grow on the surface.

In addition to the above, there are advantages:

  • relatively low thermal conductivity;
  • high degree of sound insulation;
  • ease;
  • ease of work;
  • low cost;
  • environmental cleanliness.

The main disadvantage is the ability to accumulate moisture. If the wool is wet, its characteristics drop significantly. It dries out long time, sometimes not completely. After this the composition becomes heavy. If the fixation was not secure enough, it may move downward under its own weight.

Facade insulation timber house should only take place using ventilated facade technology. Installation of reliable vapor barrier is required.

It’s worth figuring out how to insulate a house made of timber in order to prevent typical mistakes during work. You can use polystyrene foam for external and internal insulation. The advantages are low cost, low thermal conductivity. Installation is simple and convenient. It has good hygroscopicity.

Additional Information! When purchasing, you should pay attention to the tightness of the grains in the block. The higher the strength, the better the insulation performs its functions.

The main disadvantage is high flammability. This is especially important to consider when work is carried out in a wooden house. Birds and small rodents love to eat foam.

This insulation is similar in properties to the previous one. It is distinguished by its execution technology, due to which performance characteristics grow significantly. The cost is also higher.

Advantages:

  • high performance characteristics;
  • does not accumulate moisture in the structure;
  • not destroyed by rodents or mold;
  • has high strength;
  • The installation process is simple and fast.

Among the disadvantages is the high cost. You can use not any, but only a certain one for fixing to the walls. adhesive composition. It is necessary to install high-quality ventilation of the room, because EPS does not allow air to pass through and the natural ventilation of a wooden house will be disrupted.

Foamed polyethylene

Foil polyethylene can be wrapped with a protective membrane on one or both sides. It is used for insulation outside and inside the house. It is usually used not as the main one, but as an additional insulation. When answering the question of whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of 200x200 mm timber, it is worth considering not the thickness of the walls, but how well they retain heat. Perhaps you need minimal insulation to create an ideal indoor microclimate.

Has advantages:

  • low cost;
  • ease of installation;
  • hygroscopicity;
  • high noise insulation;
  • high performance characteristics.

Disadvantages include flexibility. Reliable gluing to the surface will be required so as not to reduce the quality of the work performed. Gluing can only be done with special compounds.

Spray polyurethane foam

In fact, the material is ordinary polyurethane foam. It is applied from a special container, not with a gun. A positive feature is the possibility of insulation inside and outside the house. Moisture is not absorbed into the surface. Has high thermal insulation characteristics. There is no need to pre-prepare the walls, just apply the composition to the cleaned surface and it will remain hanging until it hardens. No fasteners or sheathing are needed. The layer will be continuous.

The disadvantage is the price of the insulation. It is significantly higher than its analogues. Without the use of special equipment, the work cannot be completed. Further processing is required, since the composition is destroyed under the influence of sunlight. He becomes fragile.

The composition is used to insulate the outside of objects. It does not react to negative environmental factors, is durable, and does not require fastening. The material is highly hydrophobic. Seamless connection can be made. There is no need for further restoration. The material allows air to pass through well, so additional ventilation is not needed.

The service life declared by the manufacturers is 15-20 years, but after 5-7 years the composition loses about 30% of its thermal insulation characteristics.

Fire safety is low. To use it, you need special equipment, which is expensive.

Windproof boards Isoplat based on wood fiber

Such plates are quite popular in Europe.

They have advantages:

  • provide high wind protection;
  • high paper permeability. It is advisable to use the material in places with a cool climate. In hot weather, it will interfere with normal ventilation of the premises;
  • good thermal insulation properties. The indicator is higher than the level of basalt wool;
  • high strength. The material adheres well to the surface of the house, but it is not easy to break;
  • reliability. The material does not lose its characteristics after some time of use. Properties are maintained throughout the entire service life. Exposure to sunlight does not affect the quality of the insulation;
  • high heat capacity.

Advantages windproof boards obvious, but there are some drawbacks. Their cost is much higher than that of traditional insulation. It is advisable to use them only in places with cold climates, because they do not allow air to pass through well.

Folgizol

The material stands out among traditional insulating materials due to its characteristics. It has a high degree of thermal insulation and sound insulation. To compare, approximately 10 mm of foil insulation provides the same heat retention as 45 mm of mineral wool or 150x150 mm of brick. Sound and vapor barrier indicators are also excellent.

The composition weighs very little, its installation is convenient. It is elastic, it will not be difficult to close any curves in the walls. It is resistant to any chemical influences, protected from mold and mildew, and is not attractive to insects and rodents. The service life is 80 years, during which the performance characteristics will not decrease. Not used in production harmful to humans substances. No odor, no toxicity.

The disadvantage is low vapor permeability. For wooden structure this is not very good - the walls will stop “breathing”. Answer the question of how to insulate timber house, one sentence will not work. There are many options, something for everyone.

SIP panels

The panels are perfect as a base for walls. In comparison, it would take 2.5 m of brick to achieve the same degree of heat loss as 15 cm of panels.

Picture 8. Heat transfer resistance of materials.

Other positive characteristics:

  • high degree of sound insulation. The thickness of the material is small, but the penetration of noise from the street is almost completely eliminated;
  • low weight of material;
  • high construction speed. When using SIP panels, it will take 3 weeks to build a cottage with an area of ​​about 50 m2.

The material is usually not used as insulation. It can be used to build a full-fledged home. Disadvantages include flammability and the presence of additives that are not considered environmentally friendly. The panels are susceptible to attacks by rodents.

Interventional insulation

The correct choice of interventional insulation depends on the needs in each individual case.

You can identify important points that you should pay attention to:

  • If the house is being built in the fall, jute should be used. Synthetic materials are not used. There is almost no shrinkage of structures in winter; condensation forms. Therefore, the insulator must allow air to pass through well. Synthetics do not have this property.
  • If there are people in the family with allergies, it makes sense to purchase linen materials. They do not have an allergenic effect. Linen is not used in cool climates. For example, he will not be able to endure the Siberian winter.
  • If in the house for a long time not planned to be produced external cladding, it makes sense to use synthetic insulation models. They do not deteriorate when exposed to active sunlight.

Good interventional insulation has a number of advantages:

  • equal thickness over the entire surface;
  • not exposed to rodents and insects;
  • after fixing with logs, it does not erode;
  • different thicknesses of products allow you to select the optimal sample for each joint;
  • insulators retain positive characteristics regardless of the time of year.

The disadvantages of inter-crown insulation appear if the wrong composition is chosen. For example, when a non-porous product is selected, and the wall stops allowing air to pass through, ventilation will be impaired. Any options are suitable for a wooden house, because the walls themselves allow air to pass through, and insulation cannot greatly limit this property.

Additional Information! It is advisable not to use interventional insulation as the main ones. If your home loses a lot of heat, you can use them to achieve initial insulation. It is advisable to select other modern materials as the main ones.

Rules for external insulation of a wooden house

Any tree absorbs moisture. Even impregnation cannot completely eliminate the hygroscopicity of wood. If ventilation is properly arranged in the home, then the moisture will quickly evaporate without having a negative impact on the building, and a comfortable microclimate will remain. If the gas exchange process is disrupted, the tree swells, and fungus and mold develop.

To avoid encountering the problems listed above, you need to follow the rules:

  • do not insulate damp walls;
  • use only vapor-permeable insulation;
  • thermal insulation materials must be covered on both sides with waterproofing, if it is not present in the layer of the insulation itself;
  • leave a gap between the final finish and the insulation.

If the walls are only going to be painted after insulation, or only the seams are insulated, the paint or sealant should also be chosen to be vapor-permeable. You can use acrylic-based compositions. Before insulation, the surface should be well prepared, cleaned, and repaired.

Additional Information! It is important to ensure that no wood-boring beetles remain in the wall, which can severely destroy the building. Under the additional layer they will continue to destroy the structure; nothing will stop them from reproducing. Over time, the wood will completely deteriorate and become unusable.

Hinged ventilated facade

They have a number of advantages. Among them are the absence of the possibility of dampness and a reduction in the amount of building materials. The insulation of the structure is very effective. Any finishing work on top can be carried out, there are no restrictions. The building does not overheat in summer due to proper ventilation.

The downsides are the need for inspection load-bearing structures. The work must be carried out by specialists; it will be difficult to carry out all the actions correctly on your own.

If you decide to do the work yourself, proceed in the following sequence:

  • Arrangement of sheathing. The bars are installed such that insulation materials fit between them normally. The maximum thickness is considered to be 10 cm. The distance between them should not be more than 60 cm, although it should be calculated based on the size of the insulation. Secure with self-tapping screws.
  • Installation of insulation. It is advisable to use elastic plates. The distance between the bars will be such that they fit tightly between the beams.
  • Installation of wind protection. It is attached to the bars using a stapler. Attach to the insulation with double-sided tape.
  • Installation of the second sheathing. Bars measuring 5x5 cm are enough. They are fixed to the wooden bars of the first sheathing.
  • Installation of a block house and other materials for external cladding.
  • Final surface treatment. All components are sanded and adjusted to remove wood fibers. After completing this type of work, a layer of paint or varnish is applied.

Wooden houses are insulated with thermowood, block house, plank, and wood-look porcelain tiles.

Laying insulation under siding

The main thing is the absence of gaps between the material. Place them evenly without bending them. The material should not bulge or go beyond the boundaries of the bars. Initially, you need to prepare the surface: remove all elements that may interfere with the process: drainpipes, lanterns and more. Then the surface is cleaned of contaminants.

The frame that will hold the siding elements must be impregnated with an antiseptic. It is advisable to use wooden blocks rather than metal elements. The metal collects condensation, which will turn into ice in winter. As a standard, bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm are taken.

Mineral wool, suitable as insulation, weighs quite a lot. It is secured between the installed beams using dowels. On top insulation material a film is installed that protects from steam from the inside and water from the outside. Secure with a stapler.

First, the insulation lathing is performed. The bars are arranged vertically in level. Insulation is laid inside, and a counter sheathing is placed on top. Its pitch is 40-50 cm. The bars are vertical. The last action will create a ventilated gap between the sheets and fix the mineral wool sheets.

Polyurethane foam spraying method

To install this type of insulation, special tools are used. The composition comes from 2 containers containing polyol and polyisocyanate. They are mixed in a sprayer and fall on the walls.

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

  • After preparatory work wooden sheathing is installed. The distance is 30 cm.
  • The space between the bars is filled with foam. Application is done from bottom to top.
  • If you need to move to another place, the gun turns off. If it is necessary to apply several layers, the next one is performed only after the previous one has hardened.
  • The insulation should not protrude beyond the boundaries of the sheathing. Any irregularities after application are carefully removed with a knife.
  • After the insulation hardens, the walls are covered with reinforcing mesh.
  • Finishing is in progress.

It is difficult to do the work yourself, even if you have special equipment. Usually specialists are involved.

Internal insulation

Expanded clay or sand are used as the simplest materials for floor insulation in a wooden house. They are placed in a layer on top of the subfloor, which is used as an additional base. The surface is not exposed to fungi and microorganisms. The main disadvantage is the loss of hygroscopicity over time.

Insulation of floors

From modern materials For floor insulation, you can use mineral wool, ecowool, fiberglass, polystyrene foam or penoplex and others. It is worth considering the pros and cons of each composition in order to make the right choice.

When insulating the floor in a house made of timber, it is important to take into account the purpose of the room, the average temperature and humidity. Don't forget about the load on the surface.

The work is divided into stages:

  • The subfloor is laid along the joists. The main advantage of the design is that the insulation material is not subject to any mechanical load. You can use any insulation composition. Make from unhewn boards with a cross-section of at least 25x150 mm. The tree must be treated with an antiseptic.
  • Wooden logs should not reach the walls by about 3-4 cm. They can be placed on a foundation, a wooden pad or posts (depending on what is available). A rough beam with a cross section of 50x50 mm is attached to them and nailed to it at the bottom rough boards. There should be no large gaps between them. You can use screws for fastening.
  • Insulation is being installed. Glass, eco-, mineral wool or other insulation materials fit tightly onto the wooden base between the lags. The remaining space is filled with polyurethane foam.
  • A layer of waterproofing is laid. Wet areas of the house must be insulated, or in the case of hygroscopic compounds (fiberglass, mineral wool, ecowool). If sprayed insulation is used, waterproofing may not be installed.

Waterproofing is found in the form of impregnation, paint or adhesive. Depending on the choice, it is fixed on the surface layer of the resulting pie.

  • Vapor barrier is installed. Immediately overlapping the previous layer. The edges protrude 10-15 cm beyond the borders and are glued to the joists. The joints are closed with metallized tape.
  • The finished floor is laid and final finishing is carried out. It needs to be fixed at a distance of several cm from the rough. To do this, use boards 10-14 cm wide and 3-4 cm thick. They should have channels at the bottom for natural ventilation.

Wall insulation

You should not insulate the walls of a house from the inside with materials that do not allow air to pass through: polystyrene foam, penoizol, extruded polystyrene foam. They are able to create a “greenhouse” effect. You will have to spend money on installing air conditioners to remove moisture from the walls. It is optimal to use mineral wool.

After carrying out the preparatory work, impregnating the walls with an antiseptic solution, a wind and waterproofing layer is installed. It will prevent weathering and moisture penetration from the outside of the home. It is better to use a vapor diffusion membrane for this.

The material will not allow the penetration of liquids and will not stop the movement of steam and air. The waterproofing layer is fixed to the walls using a construction stapler. The overlap at the joints is at least 10 cm and is taped.

  • A wooden frame is installed. The width between the racks is selected based on the width of the insulation. Make the distance 2 cm smaller than the plates so that the material fits tightly.
  • The thickness of the frame is 2-3 cm more materials to ensure ventilation. Mineral wool or other substance is laid.
  • Plastic dowels are used for fastening.

Answering the question of how to insulate a timber house for winter accommodation, it is worth taking into account climatic conditions. A variety of insulation materials that are attached according to the specified pattern are suitable. Upon completion of the work, a vapor barrier layer is installed. Typically the membranes are secured with staples.

The last stage is finishing. The layer should not interfere with the passage of air flow through the surface. It is advisable not to use plastic options.

Roof insulation

Work in the attic is carried out in the following sequence:

  • A vapor barrier layer is installed. The canvases are overlapped by 15-20 cm over the entire surface. They should be glued with tape and secured with staples to the beams. When using polyurethane foam or other similar compounds, this step is not necessary.
  • Insulation is being installed. If it is ecowool, the measures are carried out using the spraying method. In other cases, all boards are dismantled so that the material covers the entire surface attic space. When using mineral wool and similar substances, the installation must be tight.
  • Waterproofing is being installed. Be sure to overlap, adjacent strips are connected with waterproof tape.
  • Additional beams are installed on which the finishing coating is fixed.

Mistakes when insulating a timber house

The insulation of a log house from the inside is often carried out with errors, after which the material does not fulfill the task assigned to it.

The following typical deviations from the rules are common:

  • Lack of control over the condition of the walls. Over time, traces of various types of damage remain on wood. Before insulation begins, after which there will be no access to the surface of the walls, it is necessary to carry out all the specified measures. Only then proceed to the next stage.
  • Inattention to caulking of walls. Perhaps, thanks to a couple of defects in this part, the house began to leak. After correcting the problems associated with this item, the home becomes much warmer.
  • Insulation of the log house from the inside. If it is possible to carry out work outside, it should be done this way.
  • Wrong choice of thermal insulation material. Mineral wool, glass wool and any type of polystyrene foam are ideal for wood.
  • Improper storage of materials. Thermal insulation must be dry. Only then do the compositions perform their function completely.
  • Wrong choice of materials. Hard insulation is used for vertical surfaces, and soft analogues are used for floors and ceilings.

In addition to the listed errors, there is an incorrect choice of insulation thickness. For log house V middle lane Russia needs a couple of layers of materials 50 mm thick, which are laid one on top of the other. The material provided will help you understand how to properly insulate a house made of timber.











Timber cottages are being built quite actively in last years in Russia. There is a logical explanation for this phenomenon - timber buildings are built quickly, are inexpensive, and at the same time they are very comfortable and look great. However, walls made of timber shrink during the first few years of operation, as a result of which cracks may form on them. For this reason, the heat saving index of the cottage is significantly reduced and there is a need for insulation. External insulation for buildings made of wood is undesirable - wood without contact with open air begins to rot quickly, in addition, the appearance of a wooden house is lost, which has to be hidden behind the finishing. For these reasons, homeowners resort to insulating a log house from the inside.

Timber as a building material for cottages

Wooden building materials allow you to build beautiful, comfortable, reliable and environmentally friendly country houses. Modern timber easy to use and practical to use. It exists in several versions:

    Planed. A regular log is given a square or rectangular section, and the result is a planed beam. It's cheap, but it's in progress natural shrinkage may become deformed and crack. In addition, such material is not protected from rot, mold and blue stains.

    Profiled. It differs from the planed one by the presence of a recess on the working side, which allows the frame to be assembled using the “tenon in groove” or “comb” technology. Thanks to the presence of a sample, it is possible to build perfect walls without cracks or defects.

    Glued. The most expensive, but also the most quality material. It is created by connecting thin, well-dried lamellas. A special harmless glue acts as a connecting substance. Glued laminated timber practically does not shrink, does not crack, and is not exposed to the negative effects of moisture and insects.

In low-rise construction, laminated veneer lumber with a cross-section of 150x150 mm is most often used. This wood option attracts optimal ratio prices and quality. But in regions with cold winters, walls of this thickness may not be warm enough. This problem can be solved with the help of basic insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber from the inside.

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses made of laminated veneer lumber from construction companies presented at the exhibition of Low-Rise Country houses.

Insulation of timber houses

Before starting the insulation process, it is necessary to invite a specialist who will give a professional assessment of the condition of the walls, ceiling, floor and ceilings. For this purpose, the entire building is inspected from the outside and inside. As a result of the inspection, you will be given a recommendation - re-caulking will be enough, or the house needs to be insulated with insulating materials.

If you decide to insulate the cottage from the inside, you need to choose a good insulator for this, which has the following requirements.

    Efficiency. After installing the insulation, the house should become much warmer and more comfortable, and heating costs should decrease by an order of magnitude.

    Environmental friendliness. This indicator is especially important for internal insulation. They should not emit substances harmful to humans.

    Fire resistance. Most effective insulation materials ignite when exposed to open fire. You need to choose a material that either burns weakly or tends to fade out altogether.

    Durability. Sheet and roll insulators must be replaced periodically. But the less often you have to do this, the cheaper and easier it will be to maintain your home.

    Easy to use. How simpler technology installation, the cheaper each replacement of insulation will be.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house insulation services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Materials for insulating a timber house

Internal insulation of a timber house is most often carried out using the following materials:

  • polyrutan foam;

    Styrofoam.

Minvata

This is a very effective insulator, characterized by low thermal conductivity and good sound insulation qualities. It is quite safe in terms of fire, resistant to temperature changes, and has a low cost.

However, this material also has its drawbacks. At interior decoration it must be laid in a thick layer, otherwise condensation may accumulate with all negative consequences. In addition, mineral wool particles that come into contact with the skin can cause an unpleasant reaction. Therefore, you need to work with it in a special suit and a respirator.

Ecowool

Modern improved material. More effective than mineral wool. The main advantages are vapor permeability, which allows you to preserve the characteristics wood walls, and the ability to maintain thermal insulation qualities even when wet. Ecowool is environmentally friendly, durable and economical. The disadvantages here are: since ecowool is made from waste (usually from waste paper), its quality is quite difficult to control even at the production stage. In addition, laying such insulation requires the involvement of highly qualified specialists.

Polyurethane

Another option modern insulation with improved properties. This is the most effective insulation to date. Its thermal conductivity is minimal. This is achieved due to the porous structure of the material. It is applied by spraying, which prevents the formation of “cold bridges”. Polyurethane can be used to insulate vertical and inclined surfaces. It is vapor permeable and has the ability to extinguish upon fire.

One of the disadvantages is the difficulty of installing this material. It is also important that polyurethane is vapor-proof, which means that when using it it is necessary to arrange ventilation system.

Styrofoam

Traditional polystyrene foam has proven itself to be a reliable and effective insulation material. It is an excellent sound insulator, has self-damping properties, is easy to work with and is inexpensive. But at the same time, it is characterized by high water absorption and low vapor permeability. Among other things, rodents love it.

Stages of work on insulating internal walls

The insulation of the premises of a log house must be done very carefully and thoroughly. Poorly performed insulation work will result in cold and dampness still penetrating into the house, and the insulation will have to be re-laid.

Preparing the premises

First you need to remove the finish, dirt and dust from the walls. After that wooden walls treated with a special septic tank that protects the tree from mold and insects. In addition, it is necessary to treat the timber with a composition that reduces the level of flammability wood material. During preparatory work, all wiring must be separated from the walls. Then it can be returned to its place.

Caulking walls

At this stage, you should walk along the walls and cover absolutely all the cracks, including the smallest ones, with jute fiber. This procedure is external walls carried out every 2-3 years, and internally every time the insulation is replaced.

Vapor barrier

To prevent the wood from being damaged by accumulating condensation, it should be covered with a vapor barrier film before laying the insulation. Vapor barrier is especially important when insulating interior walls mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

Lathing

On next stage a frame is constructed that will hold the insulating materials - lathing. It must be installed before insulating a timber house from the inside with any rolled or sheet material. Liquid insulation, applied by spraying, do not require the construction of a frame. For the sheathing, bars with a section of 50 by 50 mm are used.

Laying insulation

The insulation is placed between the battens of the sheathing and fixed to the wall. It is important to cover the entire surface with insulating material so that there are no gaps between it and the sheathing bars. Particular attention should be paid to high-quality fastening of the upper and side edges of the insulation.

Ventilation system

In a house that is insulated from the inside, a microclimate that is too humid is created. As a result, condensation settles on decoration, furniture and other interior items. To avoid this, you need to immediately think about a good forced ventilation system when installing insulation.

Finishing work

After laying the insulation, the wall is covered with sheets of plasterboard. You can first lay a second layer of vapor barrier on the insulating material. After installing the drywall, the walls are decorated with any material to the taste of the homeowners. This could be a finish natural timber or any other option.

Video description

House made of timber insulated with mineral wool

Conclusion

A house made of timber must be warm and cozy. Having an idea of ​​how to insulate a log house from the inside, you can easily make it like this. The whole process is not very complicated, but you need to trust it to experienced craftsmen who will select the right insulation, install it efficiently and finish the job with an impeccable decorative finish.

An example of a pie for insulating profiled timber

Today, not only the owners of old wooden residential sectors, but also those who intend to build a new house are concerned about the insulation of houses inside. Already at the design stage, the question arises of creating a warm and cozy nest. The previously familiar brick or reinforced concrete faded into the background. These materials gave way to wood - profiled and laminated timber. With additional insulation, such a house will not be demolished.

Recommendations for installation and step by step videos presented below.

Insulation of walls from the inside of a log house must be divided into certain stages:

  • prepare the surface;
  • align the cracks;
  • create a vapor barrier;
  • install the sheathing on load-bearing walls;
  • lay insulation and seal it;
  • create a competent ventilation system;
  • carry out interior finishing.

Wall treatment

Before the main work begins, the walls inside must be treated with an antifungal and septic compound. Be sure to check for cracks. Everything needs to be processed - even the smallest of them.

Jute fiber is used to seal cracks. Using a special thin wide chisel, all the necessary cavities inside are filled with special fiber. For larger cracks, tape tow is used, which is twisted into a small roller.

Creating a Vapor Barrier

It is important to prevent the wood from accumulating moisture from the inside, which will subsequently lead to rotting of the walls of the log house. Therefore, before starting installation, it is necessary to install a waterproofing film over the entire insulated wall surface.

Lathing load-bearing walls

Video lesson


Laying and sealing insulation

  • When the sheathing is created, the installation of insulation begins. If it is mineral wool, then the width of the strip should be 1-2 cm greater than the distance between the vertical bars.
  • Mineral wool blocks are placed between the bars and anchors with large round heads are fixed to the base of the wall.
  • When the entire space between the sheathing is filled with insulation, thermal insulation can be improved. To do this, a second layer of film is installed over the bars on top of the cotton wool.

Interior decoration

  • Once the second layer of vapor barrier film is completed, you can begin finishing the walls.
  • The film must first be secured to the bars with staples using a stapler, which will make it possible to mount 3x4 cm bars on top of the staples on the film.

After installing the film, the paneling is carried out with wooden clapboard. This step will allow you to additionally insulate the room from the inside, and the desire to preserve the cozy, pristine interior of a house made of timber will remain.

In addition to wooden lining, planken will look quite decent. It looks like a small beam, and it is recommended to mount it horizontally.

Creating a ventilation system

When the insulation from the inside is ready, the air humidity in the rooms of the log house will increase slightly. To ensure a comfortable microclimate, it is advisable to create, so to speak, a forced ventilation system throughout the entire home.

Due to the attic space, ideally it is possible to connect, hidden to the eye, the circuit of the ventilation system. A low power fan can serve as a supercharger. By turning on ventilation for 25-30 minutes every day in the winter, you can simply maintain the air humidity level in the house - comfortable for the residents.

Insulation of floors

Insulation of floors in houses is very important. If the owners of ancient houses are still thinking about insulating the walls from the inside, then no one ignores the insulation of the floors. This is especially true for those owners who have at least once spent the winter in a house with an uninsulated floor. In addition to the obvious convenience, such insulation significantly reduces heat loss - by at least 20%.

The simplest option for floor insulation in a timber house is mineral wool.

Floor insulation with penoplex is also acceptable. If there was already a floor covering on the inside, then it will need to be dismantled. After which a rough coating is created from the base of the structure. The insulating layer (made of polyethylene) is installed directly on it. Next, the entire space between the joists is filled with insulation.

There are homeowners who decide to insulate the floors of their houses with polystyrene foam. The technique of this insulation, in fact, is no different from penoplex.

  • If polystyrene foam is chosen as insulation for the floor, and this is a type of polystyrene foam, then insulation work should begin by filling and leveling the “cushion” of gravel, up to a 40cm layer and carefully compacting it, as well as the next 10cm sand layer.
  • The next stage is a reinforced concrete subfloor, which needs 1-2 weeks to dry completely.
  • Waterproofing made of polyethylene film is laid on the dried layer of concrete, after which polystyrene is applied.

Insulation of ceilings

It should be noted that interior work on insulating ceilings in wooden houses is no less important than insulating walls and floors. The materials used are:

From all that has been said, the conclusion is logical and self-evident - there are many choices of materials and possibilities for insulating a house from the inside. Of course, when choosing a material, specific value will have financial capabilities, but armed with desire and following the recommendations of specialists according to the video steps, any work will be possible.

The climate of the CIS countries in general, and Russia in particular, is quite harsh. Winters are cold, metaphorically speaking, even unpredictable, and therefore the question reasonably arises of how to insulate a house made of timber? There is an answer to this question, and the technology for insulating a house using timber is quite simple and can be done even with your own hands.

However, insulating a log house from the inside is a process that requires careful preparation before its implementation. You should not only know how to insulate a house made of laminated veneer lumber, but also understand how the entire thermal insulation technology works.

Fortunately, there is nothing complicated either in understanding the technology or insulating a log house exclusively with your own hands.

1 Insulation of timber buildings

When creating a wooden house with your own hands, you should immediately expect one incredible common problem: without insulation of corners, floors and even walls, the building will simply be unsuitable for use in the autumn-winter period.

Buildings made of profiled timber, simply put, in almost all cases require subsequent insulation. This is usually done by special construction companies, erecting the building itself and carrying out turnkey insulation work in it.

However, proper insulation directly inside a timber building can be done with your own hands, without resorting to the expensive services of various specialized companies.

Insulated laminated veneer lumber is the key to comfortable living. But this insulation must be carried out following construction axioms. We are talking about such axioms as:

  1. Insulation between walls and siding is a primary task. The reason for this is the fact that the walls are in contact with the outside world, taking heat from inside the building and releasing it to the external environment;
  2. The next most important element of the building in which you need to do the insulation yourself is the floor. For the same reasons as the walls;
  3. Insulation of the roof of a building must be done exclusively using either mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. The choice between these two thermal insulation materials should be based on your own preferences;
  4. Insulation and finishing of door and window openings performed exclusively with construction foam. Old windows can be insulated with thermal insulation film;
  5. The insulation of a bathhouse made of timber is carried out as a last resort, since this procedure is secondary.

A building that is protected on all sides by thermal insulation materials will resemble a thermos, which always provides cozy coolness in the summer and warm warmth in the winter. Insulated laminated veneer lumber is the key to a happy pastime in any weather and climate in your own home.

1.1 Nuances of insulation work

Insulating profiled timber in a house requires a step-by-step, judicious approach. You should immediately identify and think through the primary goals for insulating profiled timber. Such as:

  • Choose the right insulation for installation under siding (even suitable);
  • Calculate correctly and extremely accurately required thickness thermal insulation material;
  • Calculate how the finishing will be carried out;
  • Describe all the stages and nuances of the technology for laying a building from profiled timber;
  • Carry out waterproofing measures in advance;
  • Protect the log house from possible exposure to harmful ultraviolet rays.

The actual finishing and insulation under the siding of a building made of profiled timber is carried out, as mentioned above, in stages:

  • The first step is to install a construction seal between the so-called “crowns” of the log house. In addition, it is important to install thermal insulation of butt joints in the corners;
  • If necessary, if there are reasons for this, make caulk for the log house;
  • Next, it is necessary to carry out external thermal insulation directly under the facade system (under the siding);
  • The last step is to do internal thermal insulation for plastering.

But the whole procedure is not over. An important mistake is the lack of thermal insulation for roofing systems. Such a mistake can result in inevitable heat leakage from the roof in winter. Moreover, there may also be problems such as:

  • Failure of all roofing material;
  • Ice and large icicles will constantly form, an example of this is;
  • Energy costs to maintain heat in the building will increase sharply.

Among the many different insulation materials, experts advise choosing between mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Despite the fact that polystyrene foam is not the safest insulation under siding for wooden buildings, it is more than effective.

Polystyrene foam structurally consists of 97% air, which affects the thermal insulation value (for polystyrene foam it is unusually high). Mineral wool also has an important advantage: it is extremely resistant to fire, and it can be installed under siding wooden buildings most secure.

2 Production of thermal insulation

Consistent production of thermal insulation for timber buildings begins with the creation of a vapor barrier. And in order to isolate materials from steam, either roofing felt or plastic film should be used. In rarer cases, you can limit yourself to ordinary aluminum foil.

The selected insulation material is placed on top of each other to create a complete seal. In this case, all existing joints are glued with construction self-adhesive tape.

The next step is to install a frame made of boards, the thickness of which should not exceed 50 millimeters and a width of 100 millimeters. The boards should be nailed to the wall and a distance between them should be left that is an order of magnitude smaller than the width of the insulation material.

The next stage is thermal insulation and. This is done simply: after the frame of the building is knocked down, you can proceed directly to laying the insulating material. Thermal insulation boards are carefully inserted between the boards. Glass wool is then installed in exactly the same way.

To create wind insulation, polyethylene film is used, which has a high vapor permeability rate. If it was not possible to purchase such a film, then you can take roofing felt instead. It is important to remember that the wind barrier layer is in all cases nailed on top of the thermal insulation material to the building frame.

The last step is just to create the skin. For this purpose they take wooden boards with a thickness exceeding 2.5 centimeters. Boards made of oak, pine or larch are ideal.

2.1 The need for external insulation

Insulating a wooden building is not as easy to understand a process as it seems. The entire insulation system in such cases has both a base, a basis, and branches. One of the branches is external thermal insulation, which is recommended by leading experts in the field of thermal insulation work.

Such insulation has a number of significant advantages:

  1. In the future, if necessary, it will be possible to change the façade of the building;
  2. Thermal efficiency increases sharply;
  3. Thermal insulation material will protect absolutely all walls from external influence climate;
  4. The interior space of the building will remain completely unchanged and free.

Only the owner of the building needs to decide whether or not to do external insulation, as is the case with. However, in this case, it is better to rely on the opinions of experts and carry out this type of insulation work in order to guarantee a comfortable stay.

2.2 Instructions for insulating a timber building (video)

Log houses require insulation. Severe winters make us think about the need for heat conservation; rising tariffs for gas, electricity, solid and liquid fuels force us to insulate houses correctly with the greatest efficiency. At the same time, the wood inside the insulating layer must be healthy, not rot, not suffocate, otherwise there can be no question of any durability of the building.

Insulation at the design stage

The efficiency of the construction and subsequent operation of a residential building, bathhouse, garage and any other building directly depends on a well-designed project. At the design stage, everything must be taken into account, including insulation. The question has been resolved - what is the best way to insulate the building from the outside or from the inside. Which way is the most profitable?

Insulation of walls with inside has obvious advantages:

  • monitoring the condition of the wood, timely preventive measures to treat or replace the wood in certain places where rotting or other problems have appeared;
  • comfortable home microclimate, warm, dry;
  • Possibility of saving heating costs.

Along with the advantages, there are obvious disadvantages of internal insulation of the house:

  • loss of usable area due to the frame for insulation;
  • loss of control over the condition of the wood;
  • direct contact of wood with cold leads to a shift of the dew point inside the insulation cake, this causes the formation of mold, rot, and fungal colonies.

Important! You should be aware of these problems even at the stage of designing a house in order to choose the right insulation material and correctly resolve the question of which insulation is better.

Usually they resort to external insulation. Advantages:

  • more efficient due to the favorable arrangement of materials for the release of internal vapors, the insulation layer is laid according to technological requirements from materials with weak permeability to materials with increased permeability;
  • improvement appearance buildings, if the log house is assembled without a trace (dovetail cut, oblique paw) and if the wood is old and has lost its original beauty;
  • wood control;
  • extra meters of usable space.

On to the cons external insulation include the impossibility of observing changes in the wood, however, following the technology will allow you to forget about the condition of the tree, since it is guaranteed against damage.

Thermal insulation from the inside

To ensure that internal insulation does not harm the health of the tree, you need high-quality, well-ventilated insulation with vapor permeability and a composition suitable for the similar properties of the wood from which the timber is made.

Important! Do not use expanded polystyrene, it practically does not allow moisture to pass through, and condensation will inevitably form at the junction with wood. This material also prevents the wood from breathing.

Expanded polystyrene has a high thermal insulation rate, but is not suitable for insulating wood, neither outside nor inside.

You need to use basalt and fiberglass materials, they are vapor permeable, and with good ventilation, moisture will leave them. Fiberglass is not an environmentally friendly material; suspended particles accompany working with it, any touch causes them to fly up in the fixed position of the material, therefore finishing with plasterboard or fiberboard is required.



All slab or roll insulation require a frame that steals space. But if you use jute, linen, felt or flax-jute material, a frame is not needed; the material is stapled to the wall. Natural materials of natural origin do not cause allergies, are easy to install, and do not require special measures, respirators, protective clothing and gloves.

Important! Flax and jute do not require installation of a vapor barrier, no films, so as not to disturb natural ventilation indoor air.

Usage fiberboard slabs also has certain advantages. The material is environmentally friendly, absorbs excess vapor and releases it back, regulating humidity, and is well compatible with wood. Fiberboard serves as an excellent rough finish; wallpaper, tiles, panels or plaster are applied and the room is ready.

Installing metal profiles for the frame provides the ventilation gap necessary for moisture to escape from the timber.

Exterior works

Insulation is carried out using ventilated facade technology; the main condition for preserving wood is high-quality ventilation. The choice of insulation for the external method is much wider. Possible application:

  • glass wool;
  • polystyrene foam;
  • stone wool;
  • extruded polystyrene foam.

Important! It is better to use slabs; roll insulation often slides down. Stiffer slab materials, standing on top of each other, retain their original shape better and longer.

The insulation process is labor-intensive, time-consuming, complex and associated with risk; high walls need to be insulated to the very top; high-quality scaffolding and compliance with safety regulations are required.

Technologically, the insulation process looks like this.

  1. The surface of the walls is cleaned of dust and dirt.
  2. Laying a vapor barrier layer; when using extruded polystyrene foam as insulation, a vapor barrier is not needed.
  3. Installation of material, rolls, mats, foam;
  4. Installation of a waterproofing layer (except for extruded polystyrene foam).
  5. Finishing the facade with decorative materials.

The fastening of the material depends on the type. Cotton rolls or mats, attached to dowels, bars, polystyrene foam is attached with adhesives.

Important! Do not use polyethylene for vapor barrier, there is no monetary savings, a special film costs the same, but there will be a lot of losses, cellophane will not allow the wood to breathe.

Other options

It is reasonable to carry out insulation measures under the siding. The siding sheathing serves as a frame for the insulation. But not only siding is good for cladding. Brick, lining, porcelain stoneware, torn stone belong to the new generation of finishing materials and perfectly decorate a house.

Foam insulation has many disadvantages. The main disadvantage of the material is that it creates obstacles natural circulation air. For brick concrete walls Styrofoam will do. For wooden ones - no.



The best option would be linen mats and mineral wool. Mineral wool is somewhat more expensive than polystyrene foam, but:

  • has low thermal conductivity;
  • inertness to fire;
  • resistance to biological effects;
  • long service life.

The main thing is that with mineral wool the tree breathes. The disadvantages of the material include:

  • may crumble into fibers over time;
  • may swell from direct contact with water;
  • may sag, rolling down.

Installation of house insulation materials under siding requires a ventilated space 5 cm thick.

Mineral wool is isolated from the timber with a vapor barrier film. For insulation materials that are not afraid of water and do not get wet, a vapor barrier is not needed. A pie with ecowool looks like this - timber, sheathing, inside of which there is ecowool, that's all.

The ventilation gap is made on the sheathing. They do it according to the level - then the siding will lie down, preferably evenly!

dom-brus.com

  1. Why houses made of timber?
  2. When not to insulate
  3. Thermal insulation materials
  4. Insulation algorithm

Why houses made of timber?

When planning the construction of a log house, we almost always expect to get an original wooden exterior as a result. Along the way, not only a residential building is made from logs, but also the entire architectural ensemble of the yard, including such minor buildings as: a well, a firewood shed, a gazebo and even a dog kennel.

And under such conditions, the arrangement of a ventilated or wet facade (usual options for external insulation) fundamentally kills the very idea of ​​​​wooden housing construction. That is why enterprising owners agree to rob their own interior space with their own hands, insulating the walls not from the outside, but from the inside of the building.

Let us add that with this type of thermal protection, the requirements for insulation increase significantly, and some of the materials that are successfully used on facades are considered unacceptable for interior work.

When not to insulate

In other words, before you start the insulation process, you should think carefully about how much you need it and what kind of activities should be planned.

Summer house



If you plan to use your home only in the warm season, and only heat it in winter so that the communications do not freeze, you do not need any insulation. Even a standard timber thickness of 150 mm will provide the necessary comfort.

Cabin for the weekend

Also, those who come to the dacha only on weekends should not think about insulation. Even the most severe frosts with such an operating schedule will not allow you to eventually recoup even half of the funds invested in such an event.

It’s better to overpay an extra hundred rubles when warming up the house than to invest in the purchase of isovers and ecowool, simultaneously calling into question the very environmental component of the house. Believe me, you don’t need to be a genius to put two and two together and understand that there will be no benefit from such insulation.

House in the south

It's funny to say, but they insulate their good-quality log houses even residents of the south, those climate zones where the default temperature rarely crosses -10°C and the batteries are kept barely warm.

Against this background, fussing with mineral wool looks like an attempt to somehow make use of extra funds that are unnecessary for the home budget.

If all of the above does not apply to you, move on.

Thermal insulation materials

Well, now let’s take a little look at the most popular heat-protective materials from the point of view of PR people. Many of them simply won’t suit you, while others can hardly be called insulation at all.

Let's get started!

Expanded polystyrene

As soon as we talk about any kind of insulation, everyone immediately remembers polystyrene foam. And indeed, foamed styrene beads glued into slabs have truly outstanding thermal insulation characteristics.

For example, it is three times warmer than pine timber, which is what is used in the construction of wooden houses. Well, or as much as ten times more effective than brick. This is a fact and no one denies it, but we cannot recommend foam plastic for insulation of wooden buildings.

The vapor transparency of this product confidently approaches zero, and its environmental characteristics do not stand up to criticism. Add fear of fire to this list and you will understand that residential wooden housing and polystyrene foam are incompatible things.

Penoplex

But this brand, like insulation, is imposed on us every day by PR people. Specially trained people on many forums prove that anything, anywhere can be insulated with penoplex. Including log huts, and even indoors.

Just for checking penoplex It turned out to be ordinary polystyrene foam. Yes, perhaps of higher quality than its artisanal counterparts, but still foam, that is, a material that has no place inside your rooms.

Penofol



Another advertised brand is penofl. So you can’t immediately tell by the name that this brand hides good old foil insulation, that is, foil-coated polyethylene foam. The task of such insulation is to reflect radiant heat, to be the “face” of the entire thermal insulation pie, and not to hide behind the “backs” of the skin.

In the same form in which we are advised to use it, penoflom can serve as a good vapor barrier membrane- no more.

Please note that despite its outstanding thermal insulation characteristics, this roll material has too little thickness to seriously affect the heat transfer resistance of the entire wall pie.

But we didn’t build a log, vapor-transparent house just to spoil the whole effect with some kind of membranes?

Polyurethane

But polyurethane foam or otherwise polyurethane foam will suit you very well, but only the one that results in a vapor-permeable, open cell. We will not delve into its thermal insulation characteristics; they are even slightly better than those of polystyrene foam; we will only dwell on those shortcomings due to which polyurethane foam has never become widespread.

  1. The first one is cost. If we take only raw materials into account, polyurethane foam will already cost 2-2.5 times more than mineral wool. And if we add here the services of builders, the cost finished insulation and will completely go beyond the bounds of reason.
  2. The second is dependence on the contractor. You shouldn’t even think that you can spray polyurethane foam with your own hands. This requires not only experience, but also expensive equipment, which is simply irrational to buy for personal use.
  3. Well, the last one is environmental factor. Despite the fact that polyurethane does not support combustion, it smolders remarkably, releasing hydrocyanic acid. And, you see, few people want to live next door to such poison.

Ecowool

And this material, despite all its advantages, is also most likely not suitable for most of our readers. Of course, compared to polyurethane foam, it is somewhat cheaper, and it does not have any environmental problems, but there is just the same dependence on builders.

The manufacturer provides two options for applying ecowool. But the manual method when working with walls and other enclosing structures does not stand up to criticism and is not worth the money spent on the material.

And the one where spraying equipment is used is traditionally expensive and involves “idling” in queues, because during the season, there are many more people who want to insulate themselves with ecowool than those who can help them with this.

In a word, see for yourself. If time permits and finances allow, you can insulate your mansion with this insulation.

And yet, most developers use wooden houses to insulate minslab. Basalt insulation differs little in its thermal insulation characteristics from the same polystyrene foam and at the same time does not exceed it in price.

Yes, mineral wool is an allergen, and it is afraid of moisture, but these shortcomings can be easily eliminated. But environmental cleanliness, vapor transparency and the ability to carry out installation independently are constant factors and they are what allowed basalt slabs gain well-deserved popularity.

If your home really needs thermal insulation, and your budget does not allow you to invest in spray insulation, mineral wool is your chance to protect your home from frost.

sait-pro-dachu.ru

Features of the procedure

Proper insulation of a log house will significantly increase its thermal efficiency and eliminate cold bridges that invariably arise between the elements of the timber.

What is the best way to insulate?

Lnovatin

Linen felt has good adhesion and provides uniform insulation of the entire surface of the inter-crown gap. In addition, it has soundproofing abilities.

It is worth noting the ease of installation of flax fiber.

Jute

Tow

Felt

Artificial

An important point - sealants are not suitable as the only insulation when primary caulk. They should be combined with elastic synthetic insulation, and also used to eliminate cracks in the timber itself after shrinkage.

Review of manufacturers

Despite its artificial origin, the material is characterized by vapor permeability, fire resistance and chemical inertness.

Among the reputable manufacturers of sealants for inter-crown insulation, one can note the products of “Conseal”, Neomid “ Warm seam", Weatherall and Wepost Wood. These materials are characterized by high performance characteristics.

How to do the work yourself?

When using synthetic insulation, it is recommended to apply a layer of sealant over it.

If you plan to use penofol (insulation based on foamed polyethylene with a foil layer) or mineral wool, a vapor barrier layer is not needed.

It is important to eliminate all loose joints between the heat insulator during the installation process.

www.stroy-podskazka.ru

Features of choosing insulation

Before insulating a timber house from the inside, you need to select a suitable insulating material.

Characteristics that insulation must have:

  • low thermal conductivity;
  • low weight;
  • vapor permeability;
  • non-shrinkability;
  • non-flammability;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • cheapness.

Mineral wool materials

Insulation of the walls of a log house is most often done with mineral insulation.

Advantages:

  • light weight;
  • fire safety;
  • high vapor permeability;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • pest resistance;
  • the presence of a foil layer (allows you to eliminate the installation of a vapor barrier);
  • affordable price.

Thermal insulation basalt wool inside a timber house

Features of insulators with different bases:

  • Basalt wool is a non-shrinking material in the form of slabs (ISOLAYT, ISOLIGHT-L ROCKWALL, PAROC, Nobasil), non-hygroscopic, withstands temperatures up to 1000 °C.
  • Fiberglass plates and rolls (Izover, Knauf, URSA) have a high water absorption rate. The use of vapor barrier membranes and waterproofing is required. Shrinkage of the material creates voids that affect thermal insulation.
  • Ecowool - cellulose fibers (Isofloc, Termex, Ekovilla), slightly flammable, with antifungal and antibacterial properties due to the presence of boric acid. When water is added to a container with cotton wool, a composition is formed that is best applied to vertical surfaces using special equipment. Such adhesive compositions make it possible to thermally insulate geometrically complex structures.

Expanded polystyrene and penoplex

The materials are similar in chemical composition to polystyrene foam. Made from polystyrene granules. Penoplex has a more finely porous structure that is resistant to mechanical stress. Expanded polystyrene is closer in structure to polystyrene foam.

Advantages:

  • Moisture-resistant insulation - does not require additional waterproofing.
  • Non-toxic - there is no release of formaldehyde resins during operation.
  • Low weight makes it easier to carry out installation work.
  • Resistance to fungi and mold. Doesn't rot.

Flaws:

  • High flammability. Treatment with fire retardants does not improve the properties of the material.
  • Low vapor permeability.
  • Destroys when interacting with dichloroethane and benzene. When gluing to an insulated surface, the adhesive composition must be selected without containing solvents.
  • The material is additionally treated with chemical compounds to prevent the formation of mouse nests and insect infestation.

Thermal insulation of internal walls with foam plastic

Insulating a log house from the inside requires the use of vapor-permeable materials, so the use of expanded polystyrene and penoplex is undesirable. The resulting condensation between the insulator and the wood will lead to rotting of the wooden frame, mold will form, and fungus will appear.

Penoizol

Urea foam is produced in three forms:

  • Liquid - resin, phosphoric acid and foaming agent after mixing are supplied under pressure to the insulated surface using special device. After hardening, a material similar to expanded polystyrene is formed.
  • In sheets - liquid material is poured into molds. It is then used as slab insulation.
  • In the form of granules - obtained from defective sheets. It is used for insulating ceilings and floors.

Advantages of penoizol:

  • Low thermal conductivity.
  • Seamless filling eliminates the formation of cold bridges.
  • Non-flammability.
  • Moisture resistance.
  • High noise absorption rates.
  • Adhesion to all types of surfaces.
  • Possibility of filling voids in walls and ceilings without dismantling the structure.
  • Once cured, it is non-toxic.
  • Saving time when performing work.
  • Resists microorganisms.
  • Low vapor permeability.
  • The liquid insulator is applied using special equipment.
  • The material is processed at temperatures from +5°C and above.
  • Release of harmful substances during the process of spraying onto the surface and during the hardening period.

Insulation with foam insulation inside a timber house

Stages of internal insulation of a timber house

If it was not possible to sufficiently insulate a house made of timber from the outside, then in order to reduce energy costs to maintain a healthy microclimate in the premises, it is necessary to carry out a number of manipulations with the involvement of specialists or do the work yourself. The following stages can be distinguished:

  • preparatory work;
  • floor insulation;
  • insulate walls;
  • insulation of the ceiling and roof.

Preparing the room for insulation

Before carrying out the main work, perform:

  • Removing dust and dirt from the surface of the log house.
  • Elimination of chips, gaps, cracks by:
    • flax tow;
    • jute fiber;
    • polyurethane foam;
    • compositions based on polymers.
  • Treating wood with a liquid fire-retardant compound.

Wall insulation work

To understand how to insulate walls from the inside in a log house, you need to understand the processes that will occur after installing the insulating “pie”.

Warm air, steamy, from the room will tend to the cold zone - to the wall and ceiling. When a cold surface is reached, condensation occurs (dew forms). Getting wood and insulation wet is an undesirable process.


Layered “pie” for thermal insulation of a wooden house

How to properly insulate a house to prevent structural destruction, insulating materials, formation of a favorable environment for microorganisms:

  • Organization of the ventilation gap. It must be made at least 30 mm between the wall and the insulation layer. On the insulated surface, a lath is made of timber.
  • Attaching a waterproofing (vapor-permeable) membrane to the ventilation grille with a stapler.
  • Installation of a box for placing insulation between the bars.
  • Insulation laying “by surprise”. The insulator size must exceed linear dimensions cells by 1.5–2 cm (for mineral wool).
  • Make installation vapor barrier film. This step can be eliminated when choosing foil insulating material.
  • Organization of the outer decorative layer.

Timber, wood materials used for internal insulation premises are treated with a fire-retardant compound before installation.


Scheme for attaching insulation to a wooden wall

Waterproofing

The main mistake when deciding how to properly insulate a house made of timber arises from confusion: where and in what sequence vapor barrier and waterproofing materials are installed.

Waterproofing membranes perform the function of protecting the insulating layer from condensation or moisture penetrating through the ceilings. The porous structure of the film allows leaking steam to escape from the insulation, but protects the protection from water penetration.

You can buy material with different characteristics on the market.

Types of waterproofing:

  • Pseudo-diffusion - vapor permeability 20–300 g/sq.m.
  • Diffusion (Tyvek Soft, Izospan AM, Delta Vent) and superdiffusion (Eurobarrier) membranes: vapor permeability 400–1000 g/sq.m. The difference is the ability to release steam. The prefix “Super” means improved properties of the material.
  • Volumetric separators diffusion membranes(Delta Trela) – polypropylene non-woven material with a three-dimensional volumetric structure. Ideal when working with metal roofing. The disadvantage is the high price.

The material is attached between the wall (ceiling) and the insulation. To avoid confusion during installation, manufacturers mark the surface of the material. The membrane installation technology is carried out according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Vapor barrier

Steam in a room is the result of human activity: breathing, cooking, cleaning, hygiene procedures. Convection of moist air, its movement from a warm zone to a cold one, is the cause of condensation on cold walls.

To insulate the house from the inside, film protection is installed, which:

  • prevents steam from entering the insulating layer,
  • prevents the formation of condensation.

Vapor barrier films cover the insulating layer on the decorative side.

Types of vapor barrier:

  • PVC film is a cheap material that stretches and tears easily. It is advisable to insulate walls during seasonal living.
  • Reinforced polyethylene is more durable due to the reinforcing viscose fibers.
  • Foil materials - a thin layer of metal is applied to fiberglass, paper, polyethylene foam. Helps reflect heat into the room. This material is good for insulating baths and saunas.

Installing a vapor barrier will prevent condensation and steam from entering the insulating layer

The films are fastened with an overlap (~15 cm) using a stapler onto the frame for the insulation. The joints and the area of ​​the brackets are taped with a special tape.

The foil material is secured with reinforced aluminum tape. Holes for wiring and pipes must be sealed.

The use of vapor barrier materials inside the house impairs the removal of vapors from the premises. The presence of properly organized ventilation and airing will create a good microclimate.

Insulation of floors and ceilings

Regardless of how to insulate the house from the outside or from the inside, work to block the flow of cold from the floor, ceiling (ceilings) must be carried out. Heat leakage through these surfaces amounts to up to 25% of the total volume. Measures to reduce heat loss are carried out as the foundation or ceiling is constructed.

The technology for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces is the same:

  • Attached to the joists cranial bars, on which the subfloor is laid.
  • Treatment of wood with bio-, fire protection.
  • The waterproofing is laid on the resulting surface and attached to the sides of the joist.
  • Insulation (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, penoizol) is laid between the joists.
  • Attaching the vapor barrier.
  • Installation of finished floor.

A floor insulated with foam insulation does not require the use of a vapor barrier film. Can I use foam? Yes, but using waterproofing.

Roof insulation

In the presence of attic floor Installation of thermal insulation is carried out similarly to the insulation of walls indoors. The procedure for performing the work is identical. Nuances:

  • It is important to choose the right insulation and thermal insulation thickness.
  • The use of polystyrene foam is not permitted.
  • Steam and waterproofing are laid overlapping in the horizontal direction.
  • The ventilation gap must be at least 40 mm.
  • The roofing is done with perforated soffits.
  • Requires installation of a ventilated ridge.

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Stages of work

Insulation of walls from the inside of a log house must be divided into certain stages:

  • prepare the surface;
  • align the cracks;
  • create a vapor barrier;
  • install the sheathing on load-bearing walls;
  • lay insulation and seal it;
  • create a competent ventilation system;
  • carry out interior finishing.

Wall treatment

Before the main work begins, the walls inside must be treated with an antifungal and septic compound. Be sure to check for cracks. Everything needs to be processed - even the smallest of them.

Jute fiber is used to seal cracks. Using a special thin wide chisel, all the necessary cavities inside are filled with special fiber. For larger cracks, tape tow is used, which is twisted into a small roller.

Creating a Vapor Barrier

It is important to prevent the wood from accumulating moisture from the inside, which will subsequently lead to rotting of the walls of the log house. Therefore, before starting installation, it is necessary to install a waterproofing film over the entire insulated wall surface.

Lathing load-bearing walls

Video lesson

  • To obtain the correct, even corners, corner posts are pre-made. The height of the room is measured and a wooden beam of the same length is cut. Its cross-section: 5×10cm.
  • After this, another block of the same length is cut, but with a cross section of 5x5cm. This rail is located along the edge of the 5x10cm beam and is secured with self-tapping screws.
  • It turns out to be a stand with the letter “G”.
  • Such racks are made for each of the corners inside the room using self-tapping screws. The vertical position of the racks is controlled using a level.
  • Upon completion of the racks, vertical bars are mounted on the plane of the wall between them every 60 cm. Their cross section is 5x5 cm.

Laying and sealing insulation

  • When the sheathing is created, the installation of insulation begins. If it is mineral wool, then the width of the strip should be 1-2 cm greater than the distance between the vertical bars.
  • Mineral wool blocks are placed between the bars and anchors with large round heads are fixed to the base of the wall.
  • When the entire space between the sheathing is filled with insulation, thermal insulation can be improved. To do this, a second layer of film is installed over the bars on top of the cotton wool.

Interior decoration

  • Once the second layer of vapor barrier film is completed, you can begin finishing the walls.
  • The film must first be secured to the bars with staples using a stapler, which will make it possible to mount 3x4 cm bars on top of the staples on the film.

After installing the film, the paneling is carried out with wooden clapboard. This step will allow you to additionally insulate the room from the inside, and the desire to preserve the cozy, pristine interior of a house made of timber will remain.

In addition to wooden lining, planken will look quite decent. It looks like a small beam, and it is recommended to mount it horizontally.

Creating a ventilation system

When the insulation from the inside is ready, the air humidity in the rooms of the log house will increase slightly. To ensure a comfortable microclimate, it is advisable to create, so to speak, a forced ventilation system throughout the entire home.

Due to the attic space, ideally it is possible to connect, hidden to the eye, the circuit of the ventilation system. A low power fan can serve as a supercharger. By turning on ventilation for 25-30 minutes every day in the winter, you can simply maintain the air humidity level in the house - comfortable for the residents.

Insulation of floors

Insulation of floors in houses is very important. If the owners of ancient houses are still thinking about insulating the walls from the inside, then no one ignores the insulation of the floors. This is especially true for those owners who have at least once spent the winter in a house with an uninsulated floor. In addition to the obvious convenience, such insulation significantly reduces heat loss - by at least 20%.

The simplest option for floor insulation in a timber house is mineral wool.

Floor insulation with penoplex is also acceptable. If there was already a floor covering on the inside, then it will need to be dismantled. After which a rough coating is created from the base of the structure. The insulating layer (made of polyethylene) is installed directly on it. Next, the entire space between the joists is filled with insulation.

There are homeowners who decide to insulate the floors of their houses with polystyrene foam. The technique of this insulation, in fact, is no different from penoplex.

  • If polystyrene foam is chosen as insulation for the floor, and this is a type of polystyrene foam, then insulation work should begin by filling and leveling the “cushion” of gravel, up to a 40cm layer and carefully compacting it, as well as the next 10cm sand layer.
  • The next stage is a reinforced concrete subfloor, which needs 1-2 weeks to dry completely.
  • Waterproofing made of polyethylene film is laid on the dried layer of concrete, after which polystyrene is applied.

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Preliminary work

To carry out the work you will need:

  • special tool;
  • vapor barrier film;
  • thermal insulation materials;
  • instructions for carrying out work;
  • preliminary preparation.

Ensuring perfect insulation of timber walls from the inside is possible only after high-quality surface preparation (read also the article Cladding a timber house from the inside: secrets, tips, recommendations).

Need to be eliminated:

  • cracks;
  • gaps;
  • chips.

Highly recommended Special attention pay attention to the condition of the walls, evaluate the quality of the insulation work already carried out, if any. The choice of material and further actions depend on the quality of processing of joints, joints of beams, corners.

The most common defects:

  • lack of insulating material;
  • thinning of the caulk layer.

Attention! All work on wall insulation will be nullified in the absence of insulation of the foundation, which it is advisable to do at the excavation stage. If the foundation is not insulated, it will need to be excavated and insulated.

Features of preparatory work

The most common materials used to correct chips, cracks and other defects are:

  • flax tow or jute fiber;
  • polymer compositions;
  • polyurethane foam.

You should not neglect this stage, relying on the properties of the advanced finishing materials used and the quality of the beams. Compliance with construction technology is the basis for a successful result.

The most common mistake that accompanies the insulation of the walls of a log house from the inside is an attempt to speed up the process. Even the most expensive material is not able to retain heat in a room if all sorts of defects that arose during the shrinkage process are not repaired.

To eliminate cracks, you need to carry out the following work:

  • thicken;
  • caulk.

One of the most popular and available materials The fiber used to seal cracks is jute fiber. If you do the work yourself, you will need a special chisel; use it to easily fill the recesses.

For large cracks ideal option considered to be a ribbon tow that must be rolled into a roller.

Wood processing

Insulation of a log house inside requires compliance with mandatory sanitary and hygienic requirements, which help prevent the spread of fungi and mold. There are more than enough antiseptics on sale at various prices, which are recommended to be purchased in accordance with the specific climate conditions.

Every centimeter must be thoroughly treated with an antifungal agent, paying special attention hard to reach places: cracks, corners. If necessary, the treatment should be carried out twice (read also the article Timber and larch, features of lumber made from this tree).

Stages of insulation

Selection of materials

Requirements for materials used for insulation:

  • ease of use;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • safety for humans and the environment;
  • fire safety;
  • durability.

To carry out work, it is necessary to purchase exclusively safe materials that prevent negative impact per person. For this purpose, you should carefully study the factory instructions, which contain comprehensive information, including regarding installation.

There are special thermal insulation materials that are coated with a film during the production process; their prices vary accordingly, but the advantage is obvious: a reduction in the duration of installation work and no costs for vapor barrier.

Attention! The insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the inside is carried out according to the same rules as the insulation of a house. Only materials need to be selected whose condition is not affected by high temperature.

Vapor barrier of walls

If thermal insulation without film is used, after carrying out the preparatory work, you can safely proceed to vapor barrier. The main purpose of this stage is to prevent moisture condensation on the surface of the walls due to sudden changes in temperature conditions.

The traditional method of vapor barrier, which provides the desired effect and has a low price, is a vapor barrier film.

High-quality vapor barrier prevents the settling of excess moisture. The spread of fungus and mold is excluded. Carrying out this type of work will ensure a long service life of the building and a normal microclimate in the room.

Insulation of floors

In addition to the walls, insulating a house made of 150x150 timber from the inside involves carrying out appropriate work on the floor. This type of work has been considered mandatory since the appearance of the first houses made of timber. An insulated floor reduces overall heat loss by 20%, which is a very high figure in construction.

The simplest and affordable option It is considered that the floor is insulated with mineral wool; if for some reason the floor is already covered, do not hesitate to dismantle it, otherwise it will be very problematic to retain heat. First of all, the subfloor is laid out, a waterproofing film and insulation are laid on it. Expanded polystyrene is popular.

This requires preliminary preparation:

  • it is necessary to backfill and level the gravel bed, approximately 40 cm;
  • the layer is thoroughly compacted;
  • sand is poured on top - 10 cm;
  • poured reinforced concrete, which takes about two weeks to dry completely;
  • Polyethylene film is laid on the finished base and only after that polystyrene is laid.

Insulation of ceilings

Ensuring thermal insulation of the ceiling is an equally important stage, especially in areas with northern climatic conditions.

The most common materials that do not require special training to work with are:

  • polyplex or foam;
  • polyethylene foam;
  • mineral wool;
  • expanded clay

In addition to special modern materials, many people prefer classic version- sawdust.

The advantages of this material are obvious:

  • availability;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • ease of use.

To ensure a long service life of sawdust, you should definitely use a special antifungal agent; it is also useful to use a fire retardant to increase fire resistance.