Bathroom exhaust ventilation. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet: operating principle, typical diagrams and installation features

At the time of interior planning and finishing works in the bathroom, you need to pay attention to a very serious issue, this properly functioning ventilation device. Well-designed ventilation in the bathroom and toilet not only serves as the main air exchange, but also guarantees the flow of fresh air into the room.

With the help of a well-equipped ventilation system, the nasty stench and excess moisture are eliminated from the bathroom and toilet. Therefore, thanks to a well-thought-out and clearly installed system of proper ventilation, owners who have such an air hood installed in their apartment do not have to worry about the appearance of various molds and damp odors.

Ventilation system.

The building regulations prescribed in the reference books clearly establish the necessary standards that must be followed to achieve good result, when ventilating bathrooms with a high concentration of humid air.

According to the standards, ventilation ensures the supply of fresh condensate in the amount of 25 cubic meters per hour for bath and toilet rooms, and for a room with combined bathrooms, the norm will be 50 cubic meters per hour. These are average standards for ventilation systems. Sometimes such standards may be recommended to be increased to 150 cubic meters per hour.

Depending on the method of air ventilation, ventilation can be divided into natural and forced system . In the first option, ventilation of the room is carried out due to the difference that occurs due to different air pressures outside and inside the room.

Air flows through doors and windows, as well as special openings for ventilation in the toilet and bathroom. True, it should be noted that due to the special interior design bathroom premises, application natural way Ventilating a room does not always provide the desired result. To arrange a natural method of ventilation in the room, you need to make an opening connecting the opening for natural ventilation in the house with the bathroom.

When implementing forced or artificial ventilation of sanitary facilities, use specialized fans , providing an intense flow of fresh air, ensuring good air exchange.

Often, an electric fan directs air flows from the sanitary unit to the street, while fresh air penetrates into the bathroom from the rest of the apartment.

Very often, owners install a small one in the toilet with their own hands. electric fan - an ventilator, even considering that the house has excellent natural ventilation, this is done to speed up the cleaning of the air space in the room from disgusting odors.

If the owners cannot get good, natural ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, forced ventilation in the premises must be installed.

Types of ventilation.

Ventilation is divided depending on its application into:

Exhaust type of ventilation installed indoors.
Supply type of ventilation.
Mixed ventilation in rooms.

Exhaust ventilation of premises , described by us earlier - this is when fresh air enters the room through external sources, squeezing out the old air mass due to a difference in pressure.

Supply type of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet rooms It is performed in a different way: the air mass heated from the outside is squeezed out through special vents.

During operation mixed system air ventilation uses a controlled flow of air mass in rooms for various purposes.

The ventilation system may or may not have a duct to ventilate the air flow, thus it is divided into ducted and ductless.

If possible, duct ventilation should be avoided. The best way out in this case is to slightly widen the hole in the wall, which serves as an exit to the common ventilation duct. multi-storey building, and install a small fan in it to extract air.

In separate toilet and bathroom rooms, if there is only one hole for ventilation with access to the general ventilation in the house, another hole with a fan is made between the bathroom and toilet.

Installing a special channel for ventilation makes sense in those places where increased ventilation of the room from polluted or humid air is necessary.

Diagnostics of the ventilation system.

Before improving ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, you need to very carefully familiarize yourself with its structure and diagnose its condition.

How to check ventilation in the easiest way, finding out if everything is ok her. To do this, we first examine air draft, you need to bring a burning match or splinter to the ventilation hole. Oscillations or displacement of the flame towards the ventilation duct are proof that everything is in order with the air draft. In hot or calm weather, air draft is significantly reduced compared to windy or cool weather. It is advisable to carry out such diagnostics both open and closed door in the bathroom; in addition, for a more improved effect, you need to open a window facing the street in the apartment. If the supply of fresh air decreases, it is best to install means that will complement the ventilation system. Usually, in this case, to improve the ventilation process, special grilles are installed in the doors of the bathroom and toilet, due to which a normal supply of fresh air is provided when the doors are tightly closed.

Even if there is good air draft in the system, it is not always possible to draw a conclusion about the normal functioning of ventilation. How to make ventilation in the toilet and bathroom work normally, the solution is quite simple. To do this, you need to check the working condition of the air exchange channel, which may have stopped functioning normally as a result of unprofessional repair work or due to some unidentified reasons. Completely eliminating various blockages and clutter in the channel may be changed in better side operation of the air ventilation system.

Fan characteristics.

By purchasing vent fan , it is imperative to assess the noise that comes from the operation of the device. During normal operation, the amount of noise should not exceed 35 decibels. At the same time, in the room, as a result of air circulation, fresh air should refresh the room 5 to 8 times in one hour. To calculate the performance of the device, you need to multiply the space of the room, calculated in cubic meters, by 5, and increase the resulting result by 20%. Fans differ in installation method; devices of the same type are installed in the ventilation duct itself; there are also radial devices mounted at the outlet of the duct. Such fans have a discreet appearance, as they are hidden from the inside. Radial type models usually have a decent appearance in order to fit into general interior rooms.

Fan models can also be very different:

Conventional axis instruments , the air mass is supplied along the axis of the structure using blades used for ductless devices.
IN diametrical devices For low performance, a drum-type wheel is used.
Centrifugal models have an increased efficiency coefficient in operation, as well as a high noise level.
Centrifugal axial fans They make less noise, but give the same effect during operation as centrifugal models of devices.

By improving ventilation in the toilet and bathroom, in some cases timers and gyrostats are mounted on fans, with the help of which it is possible to extend the operation of the device to achieve greater results.

Devices whose power is extremely weak cannot effectively remove odors and moisture, but it is also not advisable to operate high-power models. Devices with high power can produce such a high-intensity air flow that the air will not come from outside, but from various holes for ventilation, in which case stale air will again enter the room.

Ventilation system design.

If for some reason there is no ventilation system in the room, you need to immediately ventilate the bathroom; this is not a very complicated process.

High-rise buildings are designed in such a way that the ventilation shaft is located behind the wall of the bathroom or toilet room. It is not very difficult to install correctly forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. It is necessary to make a neat vent, if there was none, then attach an axial-type radial fan from inside the hole, and connect it to electricity in compliance with all standards and requirements for the operation of electrical devices in conditions of high humidity.

The vent for aesthetics is covered with a beautifully crafted grille. If living space has a divided sanitary unit, and the ventilation hole is located on the wall between two rooms; the second fan is installed in the manner described above. In some cases, it is very convenient to use decorative grilles specifically designed for installing fans in them.

It is much more difficult to install ventilation in the bathroom and toilet when the ventilation shaft borders another room; in this case, installation of a duct hood is provided. To begin work on the device, you need to select a place for the vent in the bathroom and toilet. After this, you need to think over a plan for installing a ventilation box, through which the air masses will go into the shaft.

Ventilation ducts differ in the following characteristics:

Rectangular box or round shape, made of plastic.
Hard and soft type boxes made from corrugated iron.
Box rectangular shape, made of ordinary or galvanized sheet.

Plastic products lightweight and very simple to install forced ventilation in the bathroom. They are much more durable than hardware, have a lower price and are easier to maintain. For this reason, today on the market building materials Plastic products are actively replacing metal products. As for the use of corrugated products, their use occurs extremely rarely, and this does not have any impact on the overall picture.

It is best to install the box before the main repair work begins, but the installation of electrical equipment and grilles on the vent is carried out after the main finishing. On final stage The installed equipment is checked.

Errors that are possible when installing ventilation.

Sometimes it happens that the newly installed forced ventilation in the bathroom malfunctions and does not meet its requirements. This is a consequence of improper installation of the device and some errors made during installation. Even before installation work begins, you need to clearly know how to make ventilation in the bathroom and toilet.

Here are some mistakes that are often made at work:

The ventilation channel is not designed correctly, which creates difficulties for air flow.
Rupture of sealed connections of the ventilation duct.
Wrong installed fans, while they make a lot of noise.
The ventilation duct stretches through the rooms, creating unnecessary noise with its operation.

Most of these unpleasant problems can probably be prevented. How to properly make ventilation, for this you need to pay attention at the stage of drawing up and thinking through a plan for the future installation of the structure. If all this was not done, and unpleasant problems arose during the operation of the ventilation system, in this case a complete rework of the entire structure may be required.

Another way to make forced ventilation function properly is to use various noise absorbers and installation of a more powerful fan .

The bathroom and toilet, where unpleasant odors and condensation accumulate, are most in need of an exhaust system. A high-quality hood ensures a normal indoor microclimate that meets sanitary and hygienic requirements. To do this, you need to study the rules for installing a fan.

- a finely organized structure that affects the microclimate of the room. The appearance of mold in the bathroom indicates a malfunction of the ventilation system or the insufficiency of the existing one, errors in self-installation or miscalculations during design. Rising from hot water steam creates condensation, which accumulates on the walls and eventually turns into fungus. Redecorating will temporarily get rid of stains, so the problem is solved at the root. It is also necessary to ensure air exchange, since organizing a healthy microclimate for a person during baths and other procedures is impossible without this.

Sanitary requirements and standards

According to SNIP and others regulatory documents, to create forced air exchange in rooms with high humidity, provide fresh air, adhering to the following indicators:

6–8 m3/hour per 1 cubic meter of area for a bathroom;
8–10 m3/hour - for a combined bathroom.

The outflow of exhaust air from the bathroom and toilet is more than 30 cubic meters per hour. To equip bathrooms in apartments and private houses, low-noise household fans with a noise level of no more than 30 dB are used.

Calculation of equipment performance

Before purchasing equipment for installing forced ventilation of toilets and bathrooms, calculations are carried out. Knowing the exact volume and purpose of the rooms, they choose the equipment that is optimal for productivity (read more about how to calculate everything and install forced ventilation). Each room has its own air aeration rate. The value indicates how many times the air supply will be refreshed in one hour.

Attention

A bathroom with a toilet belongs to rooms with high humidity levels; the permissible maximum reading for the aeration ratio is equal to 10.

To calculate the productivity and usefulness of the hood, calculate the volume of the room by multiplying the height by the area. The resulting value is multiplied by the air exchange rate. The result, indicated in m3/h, indicates the minimum extractor power for the bathroom. For example, for a bathroom of 9 square meters. meters with a wall height of 2.5 meters, perform the following calculations:

Room volume: 2.5x9=16.8 m3.

Air exchange rate for a bathroom.

Capacity: Vvent = 16.8 m³ x (6…8) = 100…135 m³/h.

According to calculations, for a bathroom of 9 square meters. m will require a fan with a power of 100…135 m³/h. For ventilation systems with a reverse draft effect, in order to overcome the exhaust resistance, the calculated fan performance is increased by 30%. Openings for air intake are provided in advance, for which a two-centimeter gap is left between the door and the floor, lattice structures are installed at the bottom of the doors leading to the bathroom, or drilled holes.

How to properly make a forced system with your own hands?

The ventilation ducts in the walls of the bathroom are usually not enough for the necessary air exchange, so fans are installed to increase the efficiency of aeration. Design and installation are carried out independently, with preparatory work. For this:

Compare the diameter of the exhaust device with the size of the opening in the wall.
The narrow entrance to the ventilation hole is widened using a perforator.
A plastic or corrugated pipe is inserted into the wide entrance.
The gap between the pipe and the wall is sealed with polyurethane foam.

Installation location

For the most productive operation of ventilation, you need to choose a powerful installation and choose a place for installation. The hood is designed to remove warm moist air, the hood is mounted at the top of the wall opposite the front door. To ensure access of fresh air into the room, a grille is built into the lower part of the door or a gap is left under the door, which allows fresh air to enter the room from the apartment. It is forbidden to install the fan near a sink, bathtub, toilet or other sources of high humidity, as this will cause a short circuit. For the same reason, the device is placed under the ceiling. To reduce noise, install a silicone gasket between the device and the wall. The electric hood is not installed in the toilet above the door, so as not to reduce the air flow.

The fan is not installed near heating devices so that it does not overheat.

Diagnostics of the condition of the ventilation duct

Before installing ventilation, carefully study the condition and design of the ventilation shaft. To do this, check the draft - first with the windows and doors open, then tightly closing the sources of fresh air. A sheet of paper, a lit match, and a lighter are leaned against the ventilation shaft. A tongue of flame shifted towards the ventilation duct and a piece of paper stuck to the hole indicate the presence of draft. To improve draft, check the ventilation shaft for debris remaining after repairs. Removing the obstruction will significantly improve the performance of the entire exhaust system.

How to connect: choosing a circuit

Looking at a typical apartment in a new building, it becomes clear that standard built-in ventilation is not able to cope with the removal of moisture from the bathroom. The exception is a private house, where there is a window in the toilet. Often, when organizing forced ventilation, you need to find out the duration of the operation of the exhaust system. Typically, the fan is connected to a light switch, activating the device while the person is in the bathroom. But this is not enough to ventilate the room. The next method is to connect the device to an independent switch. But the visitor often forgets about such a trifle as the need to turn the device off or on. Therefore, it is necessary to install a fan with a humidity meter. The devices operate autonomously, remove excess moisture from the room, and do not require human intervention.

How to install the fan?

When starting to install the ventilation system, read the instructions for the device. It contains step by step guide for installation, which simplifies the work. In the absence of manufacturer’s instructions or translation into the native language, the actions are performed in the following order:

remove the outer cover;
the places where the fan contacts the wall are lubricated polymer glue, liquid nails or silicone;
insert the device into the opening in the wall, completely hiding it working part, consisting of blades and an engine;
the body is pressed tightly to set the glue;
to protect against insects and debris from entering the room from the ventilation shaft, a mosquito net is installed;
the cover is put in place, secured with self-tapping screws or dowels, which are supplied in the kit;
The final stage is laying the wire and connecting the fan to the power supply.

Components and materials of the system in apartments and private houses

Ventilation system for combined or separate bathrooms in small apartments- This is a fan inserted into a hole in the wall. In large apartments there are air ducts made of plastic and metal, mounted behind a suspended ceiling. In private homes it consists of the following elements:

Air duct. Rectangular pipe 0.5, 1 or 2 meters long. Installed under the ceiling, do not require extra space.
Fan- external, protruding above the surface, or built-in. The first is used for ventilating a small room, the second - in complex multi-pass systems.
Swivel elbow for connecting corners of rectangular pipes. Vertical and horizontal models are produced.
Connection fitting. Connects straight sections of the ventilation system.
Check valve. Prevents insects and debris from getting into the room from the ventilation shaft (do it yourself?).

Operating rules

To extend the service life of equipment, preventive measures are regularly carried out.

The ventilation system is inspected for debris, dust and dirt are removed from the fan blades. This will ensure complete air exchange, and the device will operate at maximum power.
Periodically check the draft in the bathroom and toilet, wash the mosquito net warm water with detergent.

Untimely maintenance and cleaning of the exhaust system leads to failure of the entire system.

Experts advise people who are faced with installing a ventilation system in a toilet and bathroom for the first time to ensure the supply of fresh air. Otherwise, the efficiency of the exhaust device is reduced to zero (?).
There is no need to buy expensive large systems. It is enough to select a device, having first correctly calculated the required power.
The presence of an ionizer, air purifier, air conditioner, or household humidifier does not eliminate the need to install ventilation, since none of the listed devices contributes to the flow of fresh air.
It is recommended to pay attention to the power of household electrical wiring when installing the fan. The device is characterized by two main parameters - power and pressure. These parameters depend on each other and are taken into account to avoid cable damage due to network overload.
After installation is complete, you need to check the operation of the fan by leaning against a sheet of paper or holding a switched-on lighter. If the flame does not change position, a specialist is called to fix the problem, especially when there are attachments built into the system - sensors, thermometers, remote controls, external interfaces.

The issue of installing an exhaust fan is approached responsibly. When choosing a device, the manufacturer, equipment quality, performance and size are taken into account. By installing a hood in the bathroom, you can prevent the appearance of condensation and unpleasant odors, and provide the room with clean, dry air.

Useful video

Below you can see detailed instructions for connecting and installing forced ventilation in the bathroom.

In contact with

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is an indispensable condition, since it is in these rooms that the general humidity of the air is increased and unpleasant odors are usually present. If the ventilation system is not installed or does not work efficiently enough, then in the bathroom rooms not only will persistent odor, but a favorable microclimate will quickly be created for the development of mold and mildew, which are very difficult to combat.

Everyone knows that steam and heated air rise upward, and if they do not find a way out, then most of the evaporation will sit on the surface of the ceiling and the top of the walls, where black spots of microflora colonies can most often be seen. We must not forget that any fungus reproduces by spores that are released into the air. Together with the air, they are then inhaled by household members, and this can lead to allergic reactions and illnesses. respiratory system, asthma and other serious ailments.

Basically, the question of how to carry out an effective one arises before the owners of private houses, since in high-rise buildings this is laid out in advance in the building design, and the ventilation ducts are routed to the bathroom and kitchen areas. However, the information can also be useful for apartment owners - the “standard” ventilation system does not always fully cope with its responsibilities, and certain adjustments need to be made to its operation.

Types of ventilation systems

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with existing systems ventilation of premises.

Ventilation systems are divided into two main types - natural and forced.

Natural ventilation works only due to the free movement of air from an area of high pressure to a lower one, that is, without the use of special instruments and devices. Exactly similar type ventilation is designed in most apartments multi-storey buildings. The size of ventilation windows (vents) in the bathroom and toilet (separate or combined) and in the kitchen, the configuration and throughput of the ventilation risers are designed in such a way as to create a natural movement of air from the living spaces with the required volume of air exchange.

Forced ventilation involves the installation of fans. Very often, just such a system is installed in bathrooms and kitchens of private houses. However, some homeowners in high-rise buildings, wanting to improve the ventilation of the premises, install a fan in the apartment.

In addition, forced ventilation systems are divided, depending on their main functions, into the following types:

Exhaust ventilation. In this system, the air rising to the ceiling is drawn in with the help of a fan and discharged through special channels to the street. Typically, this scheme is used in conjunction with a natural ventilation system. This is the most common option for private construction conditions.

For example, this illustration shows an option that is carried out through the intake of air from the street, with its further forced removal through the kitchen and sanitary premises.

– in this system the fan works to supply air, and its output for a full ventilation cycle is done naturally through ventilation ducts. In practice, in residential construction, such a scheme is rarely used - here it is more important to create conditions for the effective release of air to the outside in the required volume.
The supply and exhaust system involves both the injection of air into the premises and its forced removal from them. Characteristic for volumetric structures, for houses large area, in which the possibilities of natural inflow and outflow of air are clearly insufficient.

Fan types

Since the exhaust ventilation system is the most effective for a residential building, with a natural flow of air through “clean” living spaces and forced air exhaust through the kitchen and bathroom, it is worth saying a few words about exhaust fans. They are divided into types according to their installation locations - axial, channel, roof and radial.

Axial wall-mounted (overhead) fans.

An axial fan consists of a housing in the form of a cylinder, inside of which there is a wheel with cantilever blades mounted on the axis of an electric motor. When rotating, the blades capture air and activate its removal from the room.

This type of device is mounted in a ventilation duct window on the wall (or ceiling) of the bathroom or toilet. It is very easy to install due to its well-thought-out design, and looks quite aesthetically pleasing, so it can be called the most popular for installation both in a private home and in apartment conditions.

Duct fans.

Duct axial fans have been used in household practice not so long ago and not as widely as overhead axial fans, since their independent installation is quite complicated. However, sometimes it is impossible to do without them, for example, in cases where the area of the ventilated room is more than 15 m².

Duct fans are also installed in cases where they want to reduce the noise level from the operation of the device in a bathroom or other rooms of a private house.

This type of fan can be installed in various areas of the ventilation duct. It is placed in a special box-shaped housing, or it can itself be connecting element for two parts of ventilation pipe. It is very important that free access to the device is provided, since it must be cleaned and lubricated periodically.

There are three types of air ducts in which duct fans are installed: flexible, semi-rigid and rigid.

Flexible channels are quite easy to install, which is why they are chosen most often. However, they are less reliable and have a much shorter service life than rigid or semi-rigid ducts. A thrifty owner will certainly choose reliability.

Radial fans.

A radial fan consists of a motor located on the axis of rotation of a wheel with blades, which is placed in a closed metal box with a characteristic spiral shape.

During operation, the fan blades begin to rotate, capturing air from the room, which flows from the fan through the outlet of the casing into the air duct.

For installation in residential buildings, it is recommended to choose radial fans with backward-curved blades. Although they have slightly lower indicators of the generated pressure, such devices are distinguished by better “linearity” in adjustments, a larger operating range and, most importantly, are not so noisy compared to fans with forward-curved blades.

Radial fans tolerate increased loads well and are quite economical to operate.

Roof fans.

As can be understood from the name of these devices, they are installed on the roofs of apartment buildings and private residential buildings.

The design of a roof fan includes such elements as an engine, a wheel with blades on the axis of rotation, vibration-isolating (damper) pads, and a device for automatic adjustment.

A roof fan can have an axial, multi-blade or radial design. The latter is most in demand, as it is the least demanding and provides high performance at minimum costs for electricity.

Ventilation coercive systems can operate in both automatic and manual modes, have one level of pumping or several speeds.

Unregulated ventilation has only two mode positions: “on” and “off”.
A system with several speeds that are selected by a switch will become more flexible.
The most economical to operate are fans with adjustable speed, in which the blade wheel is given a rotation speed corresponding to the required current load on the system. The speed change occurs quite smoothly, with the help of special automatic monitoring and control units.

Basic standards and requirements for the organization of ventilation

It's time to move on to the issue of choosing what you need and choosing a toilet. But he'll get up right away main question about him the most important characteristic– productivity, that is, the ability to pump a certain volume of air per unit of time.

It will be difficult to understand this aspect if you first do not familiarize yourself with the basic standards for organizing ventilation in a residential building or apartment.

In this matter, it is necessary to rely on the main governing documents - the relevant sections and annexes of SNiP 41-01-2003 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.08.01-89* (“Residential buildings”).

According to the requirements of this document, a forced artificial ventilation system must be installed in those rooms where it is required by sanitary standards, but natural ventilation, that is, a window or vent, is absent or ordinary ventilation is not enough.

In order not to refer the reader to the SNiP tables, below is generalized information that will be required to calculate ventilation.

Room type	Ventilation standards		Notes
	Air flow from outside	Exhaust air outside
Residential premises	The air exchange rate is not less than 0.35 times/hour, but the intake is not less than 30 m³ per person.	-	The calculation is based on the total volume of the entire apartment (house) or on the number of people actually living
Residential premises	3 m³ for every 1 m² of residential area	-	The calculation is based on the area of living quarters of the house
Kitchen
· with electric stove	-	Not less than 60 m³/hour
· with 2-burner gas stove	-	Not less than 60 m³/hour
· with 3-burner gas stove	-	Not less than 75 m³/hour
· with 4-burner gas stove	-	Not less than 90 m³/hour
Bathroom	Inflow from residential premises	Not less than 25 m³/hour
Separate restroom	Inflow from residential premises	Not less than 25 m³/hour
Combined bathroom (bathtub + toilet) individual	Inflow from residential premises	Not less than 50 m³/hour

There are, of course, standards in SNiP for more specific visits: dryers, ironing rooms, dedicated laundries and others. But in the context of this article, they are not particularly interesting to us - we will talk about average apartments or houses. You can completely limit yourself to the above values.

But why do we need to know the indicators of forced natural ventilation in residential areas? But the fact is that an apartment or house should be considered as a single balanced “organism”. In order to be effective, and the bathroom, toilet and kitchen areas are constantly ventilated with air coming from the living area, the exhaust devices installed in them must be able to cope with this task. Simply put, the volume of extracted air cannot be less than that of incoming air. There is such a thing as the air balance equation, and when selecting ventilation units it is necessary to strive for maximum compliance with it.

∑Qin. = ∑Qout.

∑Qin.– the required total volume of air supplied with supply ventilation.

∑Qout– required performance exhaust ventilation.

Failure to comply with this equality in one direction or another can cause undesirable consequences - stagnation of air, penetration of odors from the kitchen, and even worse - from the restroom, into living rooms, accumulation of dampness in corners or on window slopes, unpleasant drafts and other negative phenomena.

Constantly foggy windows are a sign of poor ventilation.

An eternally damp surface of the glass on the windows is half the trouble, if only external sign quite a serious problem. , and what needs to be done in this case - read in the special publication of our portal.

To determine the right side of our equation, we will have to carry out calculations for the required air flow.

The most correct approach would be to calculate according to three parameters - according to sanitary standards for each resident, according to the air exchange rate for the volume of the entire house or apartment, and according to standards for each meter of living space. Then all that remains is to compare the results obtained and select the maximum indicator - this will become the required air flow value for high-quality ventilation.

Well, then, based on the obtained value, it will be possible to move on to the distribution of forced exhaust ventilation volumes in order to achieve the desired equality.

For example, calculation for a house with total area 120 square meters.

Having problems calculating the area of premises?

It is usually easiest to take the area from an existing house plan. If for some reason it is not there, you will have to calculate it yourself. A special publication on the portal discusses various examples- from the simplest rectangular rooms to rooms with an unusual complex configuration, and convenient online calculators are provided for quick and accurate calculations.

To make the calculations easier, you can make a small table:

House premises	Air flow from outside			Outdoor hood
Other data and calculation progress	According to sanitary standards for residents	According to the frequency of air exchange from the total volume of the premises	According to the standards per 1 m² of usable area	Minimum established	Necessary in real conditions
Number of residents	5 people	-	-	-	-
Living room	-	21 m²	21 m²	-	-
Bedroom 1	-	16 m²	16 m²	-	-
Bedroom 2	-	14 m²	14 m²	-	-
Children's	-	17 m²	17 m²	-	-
Dining room	-	15 m²	15 m²	-	-
Kitchen ( gas stove 4 burners)	-	12 m²	-	90 m³/hour	150 m³/hour
Hallway	-	5 m²	-	-	-
Hall	-	9 m²		-	-
Corridor	-	3 m²	-	-	-
Bathroom	-	6 m²	-	25 m³/hour	50 m³/hour
Bathroom	-	2 m²	-	25 m³/hour	50 m³/hour
Total area	-	120 m²	83 m²	-	-
Ceiling height	-	3.1 m	-	-	-
Volume in total	-	120 × 3.1 = 372 m³	-	-	-
Established norm	30 m³/hour	0.35 times/hour	3 m³/1 m²	-	-
Calculation	5 × 30 = 150	372 × 0.35 = 130.2	83 × 3 = 249	90 + 25 + 25 = 140	150 + 50 + 50 = 250
Need according to standards	150 m³/hour	130.2 m³/hour		140 m³/hour

So, of the three calculated values, we accept the maximum – 249 m³/hour, since it fully meets all the conditions. We round it up to 250 m³/hour, and bring to this value the total performance of exhaust ventilation in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet.

The kitchen should be given more space - it has a larger area and the ventilation standards in this room are stricter. In our case, it can be allocated 150 m³/hour. This can be a total of ventilation + kitchen, but only if the hood works with air exhaust to the outside, and not on the principle of recirculation.

The remaining 100 m³/hour can be evenly distributed between the bathroom and toilet (if you plan to install individual axial fans for each room). Or, in the case where these rooms are united by one exhaust system, you can install a common duct or radial fan of appropriate capacity. Obviously, such volumes of exhaust ventilation are quite sufficient in comparison with minimum standards, even with a good margin.

So, all conditions are fully met, and the required performance of the ventilation unit has also already been determined.

Other criteria for choosing a fan for the bathroom and toilet

It is very important to know what else you need to pay attention to when choosing an exhaust fan for bathroom rooms, in addition to its performance. These criteria include the following technical and operational parameters:

The level of noise generated during operation. The operation of any ventilation device is accompanied by mechanical and aerodynamic noise. These sound vibrations propagate through the air, through air ducts and the surfaces of the walls within which they are laid.

Mechanical noise arises from vibration of the wheel with blades, the electric motor and the casing in which the entire structure is installed.

Aerodynamic noise appears as a result of vortex formation inside the casing at the blade wheel, at the inlet and outlet of air, as it moves through air ducts, as well as during pulsations that occur.

Increased vibration and noise of a ventilation unit can negatively affect the well-being of the residents of an apartment or house.

Therefore, for fans installed in residential premises, there are certain restrictions on the noise pressure created, and this parameter itself must be indicated in the product data sheet (often even within a certain range of distance from the device).

If you purchase a fan with the ability to adjust the engine speed and, accordingly, performance, then you should give preference to a device that will cope with the necessary task of extracting the required volume of air not at its maximum, but by about 0.5 ÷ 0.7 of its intended capabilities. This way, the equipment will last longer, and the noise level will be significantly reduced - high speeds are most often the main cause of noise.

It should be noted that manufacturers install special silencers of one design or another on many fans - be sure to take this into account when choosing.

One more important point To reduce the noise level is to install a fan with provided straight sections to stabilize the air flow, reducing turbulent phenomena. For a duct or radial fan, it is advisable to leave such areas on both sides (for an axial fan, of course, this is impossible to fully observe). The length of each such section must be at least 1.5 times the outer diameter of the impeller (turbine).

Fan functionality. Exhaust ventilation systems can be automatic or standard.

Conventional axial fans can be manually operated, or they can be built into common system lighting the room, that is, when the lights are turned on, the exhaust fan also turns on.

The latter option is more convenient and economical, but some caution is required here so that when the device is turned off, the entire ventilation system of the house as a whole does not suffer. The outflow of air from the living area in the minimum required volume must be ensured at all times.

The automatic design of the device assumes the presence of an electronic unit with a timer on which the on time, operating modes and turn off time of the fan are set.

Device safety. Since the fan is powered by electricity, devices that are protected from moisture are selected for bathrooms, the packaging of which must have a corresponding label.

When choosing a fan, it is worth checking for a quality certificate for the product. It is necessary to purchase such devices in specialized stores, preferably models famous manufacturers, the brand of which itself provides a certain guarantee for the product. Do not hesitate to request that the necessary sales marks be placed in the product passport to ensure further warranty and service.

TOP 9 best bathroom fans

	Name	Rating
The best overhead fans
#1	Vents VNV-1 80 KV	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Cata E-120 GTH	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	Electrolux EAFR	⭐ 97 / 100 1 - vote
#4	Soler & Palau Silent-100 CZ Design	⭐ 96 / 100
The best duct fans
#1	Blauberg Turbo 315	⭐ 99 / 100 1 - vote
#2	Vents Quietline 100	⭐ 98 / 100
#3	Era Profit 5	⭐ 97 / 100
Best LED Fans
#1	Cata E-100 GLT	⭐ 99 / 100
#2	Blauberg Lux 125	⭐ 98 / 100

Self-installation of ventilation

Installing a fan in the bathroom or toilet of an apartment is quite simple, since the ventilation system in multi-storey buildings is already installed, and the device will only enhance the exhaust air exhaust along with unpleasant odors and humidity.

It is more difficult to install a ventilation system in a private house. But doing it yourself is also quite possible. Of course, it is best to install all elements of the system during the construction stage, but it is often necessary to carry out these installation work and in a ready-made building.

Ventilation system elements

If the type of ventilation system is determined, then you need to prepare all the elements necessary for it according to pre-determined dimensions.

The fan is the main component of the system and can be built into the wall or ceiling, as well as into the air duct. The device is usually built into the air duct in case of planned installation of a complex ventilation system. For example, if the bathroom and toilet are separated (or even separated) from each other, then each room can have its own ventilation hole, from which ducts or pipes are diverted, then connected to a single air duct equipped with a duct or radial roof fan.
Air ducts can be made of plastic or metal and have a round or rectangular cross-section. Each of them has its own advantages, for example, the rectangular version is more convenient to attach to the ceiling or wall; it can be ideally positioned above a hanging or suspended ceiling. The round cross-section provides more efficient air removal, since it does not have internal corners, delaying its smooth movement or causing turbulence.

Rectangular ducts are easier to attach to walls and flow, but round ducts are less noisy.

Swivel elbows are used when using rigid boxes. They are installed in complex structures, when changing the direction of air ducts, when exiting through a wall or ceiling, and in other cases, in accordance with the installation plan.
Couplings are used to connect individual sections of the air duct.
A check valve is installed to avoid reverse air flow when the fan is turned off, or, for example, when there is strong wind outside.
Elements for securing air ducts. To do this, you can use homemade or ready-made brackets (clamps), which are usually installed every 500÷700 mm, depending on the location.
Ventilation grilles installed at the inlet and outlet openings of the system will be required in cases where a duct fan installed between two parts of the air duct is selected. One ventilation grille will be needed to mount it on the outlet of the system when installing a surface-mounted axial fan.

Ventilation system installation

Installation of the ventilation system is carried out differently, depending on the chosen design, and whether it is being updated or installed anew. Therefore, before proceeding with installation, you should draw up detailed diagram, which will be easier to work with.

If you decide to update an already installed ventilation system, then it is best, if possible, to replace the air duct with a new one. If this cannot be done, it will be necessary to thoroughly clean the old air duct of debris and deposits on the stacks.
Before laying the ventilation duct, you need to determine in advance the installation location of the fan. The optimal location for installing the device will be the wall opposite the doorway. In this case, the ventilation system will work more efficiently due to the natural flow of air in the form of a draft.
The next step is to cut a new one in the wall or, if necessary, expand it to required sizes an existing ventilation window.
The ventilation duct is led out into a hole, then gradually installed, laid in accordance with the diagram and fixed in the attic of the building, or passed through the attic floor and roof.
If the channel is led out to the street through outer wall, then it is recommended to install a pipe into the ventilation hole on the street side, which is raised vertically by at least 500÷1000 mm. If on through hole Install only a protective grille, then the room will not have time to heat up when the heating system is operating - all the heat will quickly escape through the ventilation in a draft.

A ventilation pipe leading through the roof of a building requires a device reliable waterproofing. For this purpose, you can use special waterproofing cuffs that are put on the pipe and secured to the roof.

Another option for installing the system would be to mount the fan in the ceiling and connect it to a flexible ventilation duct (corrugated pipe), which connects to an outlet covered by a protective grille installed under the roof soffit. This installation method is possible both in combination with a suspended ceiling and without it, since the box can easily pass through the attic.

In the case of installing a complex ventilation system, when the bathroom rooms are separated and the ventilation needs to be connected to one common air duct, you can proceed as shown in this diagram. Inserts with pipes are installed in the common ventilation duct, which will go into the rooms through the suspended ceiling, and the air duct itself can be led outside through the wall. In this case, two fans can be installed, one for each room or one, ducted or installed on the street side and covered with a special casing.

After installing and securing the air ducts, you need to carefully install the axial overhead fan itself, which is inserted into the box and secured to the wall in a convenient and, of course, reliable way for each specific case. The presence of vibration loads should be taken into account so that the fastening elements do not become loose over time.
Before finally attaching the invoice axial fan in the window, you need to connect the device to the power supply. It is recommended to enclose the wire connecting the fan to the switch in a special plastic cable channel fixed to the wall, which can be placed along the ceiling or hidden above a suspended structure.

The fan is connected to the power supply through connecting terminals, which must be hidden under a special cover or casing to prevent them from being actively exposed to high humidity.

Depending on the design, the terminal block is located differently, but the fan is always accompanied by a connection diagram that will help you navigate this issue.

If you decide to connect the fan to the light switch, then this connection should be made approximately as shown in this diagram:

Connection in this way is carried out in a distribution box specially installed for this purpose, where the “neutral” and “phase” wires of the fan and lighting are connected, respectively, using a terminal. The “phase” is interrupted at the switch, and from it there is already a connection to both devices.

By the way, if you think about it carefully, such a scheme is very irrational. Let's simulate a situation - a person took a bath or shower, dried himself, got dressed, left the bathroom and turned off the light behind him. During this time, excess moisture can hardly be completely removed by the fan, and a “pillar of steam” remains in the room. The situation is similar with using the restroom. With such a connection, it would be wiser to provide a time delay of at least 5 ÷ 10 minutes by installing a simple time relay in the fan circuit.

By the way, if you wish, you can find on sale electronic timer light and ventilation control devices designed specifically for these purposes.

When installing a duct fan, you need to carefully consider connecting it to the power supply, especially if the ventilation duct is planned to be routed through the attic. An electrical cable will need to be laid through the ceiling, and along its entire length, all its possible connections, as well as the passage through the ceiling, must be reliably insulated.

If the system is mounted under the ceiling of the premises, then the air duct along with the fan can be hidden above the suspended ceiling. In this case, a ventilation hole can be arranged in the ceiling, where the air duct is brought out and fixed, and then this window can be covered with a decorative and functional grille.

Video: how to install an exhaust fan in a bathroom or toilet yourself

Checking the installed system

After completing the installation of the ventilation system, it is necessary to check it. In order to carry out such control, you do not need any tools - just bring a piece of paper or a lit candle to the grille of the switched on fan. If the paper sheet is attracted to the grate and the candle flame leans towards it, then we can say that the fan is working quite efficiently.

If it is necessary to increase draft, then a small artificial draft can be stimulated. To do this, a narrow slit-like window is cut out at the bottom of the bathroom door or a series of holes are drilled. These openings are then closed on both sides with a specially designed ventilation grille. It, depending on the design and type of holes made, is inserted into the through opening, can be glued to the door or screwed with self-tapping screws.

IN country house, as in any other building intended for long-term stay of people, there are rooms with high humidity. They should be addressed Special attention when installing an air exchange system. Ventilation in a toilet in a private house has its own characteristics that must be taken into account to organize effective air exchange, protection from unpleasant odors and excess moisture.

Ventilation in the toilet of a private house: regulatory requirements

The main indicator used when calculating ventilation is the amount of air passing through the cross-section of the pipe in 1 hour. This is the so-called air exchange rate.

For a bathroom, the required value depends on the type and number of plumbing fixtures:

for a toilet is taken to be 50 m3/hour;
when placing a shower, bathtub or jacuzzi - 75 m3/hour;
if there is a bidet or sinks, it requires 25 m3/hour;

The given values are necessary to determine the total air exchange. But you need to take into account that, as a rule, all plumbing fixtures are not used at the same time. Therefore, when installing forced exhaust, the fan power rarely exceeds 110 m3/hour.

Approximately for a combined bathroom, an average air exchange rate of 50 m3/hour can be taken.

Features of ventilation devices in the bathroom of a private house

The type of ventilation system is determined further. There are two types of systems used in bathrooms:

natural;
forced.

With natural air exchange, air movement occurs under the influence of temperature differences. The operation of forced ventilation in the toilet of a private house is ensured by a special fan installed in the air duct.

Natural ventilation

A 2-3 cm gap between the floor and door leaf, which is provided when installing the door. Sometimes special doors are used for this purpose, having ventilation holes or bars.

Exhaust ducts are vertical ventilation shafts, to which ventilation is supplied in the toilet of a private house through the wall - in its upper part or through holes in the ceiling of the bathroom.

When installing natural system air exchange, the following recommendations should be observed:

Forced ventilation

Often, cottage owners are faced with the problem of excess humidity in bathrooms due to insufficient natural ventilation.

This is especially true for rooms in which a shower stall is installed, since in this case an air exchange rate of more than 75 m3/hour must be ensured. In addition, in summer the difference between indoor and outdoor temperatures is not large, and there may be problems with traction.

Therefore, most often a forced system is used to ventilate a bathroom in a private house.

The flow of fresh air can be organized in the same way as with natural ventilation - through the gap between the door and the floor. Air circulation is enhanced by using an exhaust fan.

There are many fans various shapes and power, but they all have the same operating principle.

When the installation of the ventilation system is completed, you can check the effectiveness of its operation. This can be done using a burning candle or match: bring it to the ventilation hole and observe, if the flame bends, then the system is working.

November 16, 2019 No comments

Installation household fan on your own: which device to choose for a specific ventilation system.

The bathroom and toilet must be provided with good ventilation. It is in these rooms that the level of air humidity is significantly increased and odors are present, usually unpleasant. No amount of air flavoring can help.

When the ventilation system is either absent altogether or does not work quite efficiently, then in the designated rooms a persistent unpleasant odor eats into objects, and the walls become covered with fungus and black mold due to dampness. For pathogenic fungal microorganisms, such a microclimate is considered the most favorable. Over time, household members will also be affected by fungal diseases.

You should not wait for the consequences of unremovable dampness to appear. It is necessary to install a ventilation system, and then maintain it in working order and cleanliness.

Installation of an effective ventilation system is of more interest to owners of mansions, and in projects apartment buildings The ventilation system plan was laid out initially. Ventilation ducts designed for the bathroom and kitchen are usually separated. However, the originally planned exhaust air exhaust system is not always able to cope with its purpose. This serious defect can occur in any ventilation systems, that is, installed both in multi-apartment buildings and in private houses.

Ventilation systems can be divided into two types:

natural ventilation;
artificial ventilation.

When air masses move without additional influence, this is called natural ventilation. Air moves from an area of high pressure to an area of higher pressure low pressure. Special devices“they don’t push” him.

Features of natural ventilation

Typically, apartments in apartment buildings are ventilated in this way. Vents ( ventilation windows) in the toilet and bathroom (sometimes these rooms are combined), as well as in the kitchen, are designed specifically for the natural movement of air in the required volume. The efficiency of air exchange directly depends on the configuration of the vents and the throughput of the risers.

What is forced ventilation

The ventilation system contains a fan. In private homes, such systems are installed everywhere in kitchens and bathrooms. But even in high-rise buildings, not all apartments are properly ventilated. Therefore, their owners, intending to improve air circulation, install fans.

Depending on the main design features and functionality, forced ventilation systems are also grouped.

Features of exhaust ventilation

Air currents, rising to the ceiling, are drawn in by a fan and discharged outside. Special channels are provided for their output. Most often, such units become an addition to the natural ventilation system. When designing private buildings, such systems are used almost everywhere.

Features of supply ventilation

The fan in such a system supplies air into the room rather than exhausting it. The air escapes naturally, in full cycle For ventilation, both the fan (at the inlet) and the ventilation ducts (at the outlet) are involved.

This scheme is more suitable for some types of industrial areas, rather than for residential premises. After all, there must be an exit of air to the outside with the required efficiency, and such ventilation systems will not be able to ensure the extraction of air masses if conditions for this are not initially created (insufficient throughput ventilation duct or its incorrect location, preventing normal circulation).

Features of the supply and exhaust system

A minimum of two fans are used. Air is forced into the room on one side, and on the other it is also artificially removed. It is advisable to install such ventilation:

in houses with significant square footage;
in volumetric structures;
in buildings where air stagnation is unacceptable;
in rooms where the natural inflow/outflow is weak, it needs to be strengthened.

Disadvantages of the system: additional costs when using it and constant drafts.

What type of fan is suitable for a particular room?

For a residential building, it is best to choose an exhaust ventilation system. Air enters the room naturally and is removed using a fan. Exhaust fans are divided into the following types:

channel;
axial;
radial;
roof

Axial wall fans (also called overhead fans)

The design includes:

cylinder-shaped body;
a wheel inside the body (it has cantilever blades);
the axle of the electric motor (the wheel is mounted on it);
rotor and stator.

The air is captured by the rotating blades and the activated air flow is expelled from the room to the outside.

Prices for overhead fans

Duct type fans

Axial duct fans appeared in citizens' homes not so long ago. And they are not installed as often as overhead fans. The reason for this unpopularity is the difficulty of DIY installation. But sometimes they become indispensable and ideally suited for specific conditions. For example, if the square footage of the room in which ventilation needs to be controlled exceeds 15 m².

Radial fans

The design of this unit is:

engine;
axis of rotation of a wheel having blades;
a metal box of a spiral shape (reminiscent of the shell of an ancient ammonite mollusk), closed.

Fans are installed on the roofs of mansions and apartment buildings.

Roof fans are often used in private homes.

Ventilation installation requirements

When choosing a fan for the toilet and bathroom, you need to take into account the main characteristic - performance. This is the ability to pump air in a certain volume per unit of time (usually m³/h).

It is necessary to take into account the relevant annexes and sections of SNiP 2.08.01-89* and SNiP 41-01-2003. These sanitary standards and rules regulate the installation of utilities, including ventilation, in residential premises.

According to these requirements, forced ventilation can be installed only in those rooms where air circulation is insufficient according to sanitary standards. There are no windows with openable vents, ventilation is poor, and air circulation through the ventilation duct is also not effective.

Not every fan can be installed in specific rooms, since the level of noise it creates must be taken into account. The passport must contain sound pressure indicators.

You should also definitely pay attention to the presence of a quality certificate for the selected fan. It is advisable to purchase the device in a specialized store, choosing a model from a well-known brand. Such a brand in itself is an indicator of quality. Of course, if it's not counterfeit.

This work is labor-intensive, but not difficult. IN multi-storey building there is already a ventilation system, even if it is not functioning very well. The installed unit will only enhance the hood. Exhaust air, filled with unpleasant odors and moisture, will quickly leave the room.

But in a private house, installing a ventilation system is much more difficult. Although here you can solve the problem on your own. Naturally, it is best to install all elements of the ventilation system during construction. However, such useful changes can be made to a finished building; to do this, it is enough to have installation skills.

What elements does the ventilation system consist of?

First you need to decide what type of ventilation system will be installed. Next, you need to prepare all the required elements, determining their sizes in advance. Here are the elements you will definitely need.

Firstly, fan. This is the main component of the system. It is built in:

to the ceiling;
into the wall.

This unit is built directly into the air duct if it is planned to install a complex ventilation system. For example, a toilet and a bathroom - different rooms. Then separate ventilation openings should be installed in each room, and ducts and pipes should be diverted from them. And only later will these elements need to be connected to a single air duct.

Secondly, The material for its manufacture is metal or plastic. The cross-section is round or straight. Each system has its own advantages. For example, the rectangular version is easier to attach to the wall or ceiling. Above a suspended or suspended ceiling, its location looks ideal. But the round cross-section provides air removal more efficiently, because there are no internal corners.

Third, parts for securing air ducts. Brackets are used (ready-made clamps or homemade elements). They are installed approximately every 0.5-0.7 m, it depends on the location.

Fourthly, swivel knees. Used when using a rigid box. Intended for:

for installation of complex structures;
when it is necessary to output through the ceiling or wall;
if the direction of air flow changes.

Fifthly, couplings. Will be required to interface individual sections of the air duct.

At sixth, check valve. Necessary to prevent reverse flow of air masses after turning off the ventilation system. You will also need a check valve if there is strong wind outside.

Seventh, ventilation grates. They must be present at the inlet and outlet of the ducted fan system. And if a surface-mounted axial fan is installed, then the grille is mounted on the outlet.

Installation methods

The method of its installation will depend on what fan design is chosen. First of all, carefully draw up a diagram; it will simplify the task.

The ventilation system was already installed, but it needed to be updated. Then it is advisable to replace the air duct by installing a new one. If this is not possible, then the old air duct is cleaned:

from garbage;
from layers on the inside.

Paving ventilation duct, you should determine in advance exactly where the fan will be installed. Optimal place- This is the wall that is located opposite the door.

Ventilation window:

installed if it was not there;
expanded if it is necessary to increase the efficiency of the previous system.

The air duct pipe is led into the hole. The outer end reaches the attic or is brought out through the attic floor to the roof. A ventilation hood is installed on top.

If you are planning a channel exiting to the street through an external wall, it is recommended to install a pipe (from the street) into the hole. This pipe rises vertically by about 0.5-1.0 m, more is possible.

You can mount the fan in the ceiling and connect it to a corrugated pipe (this is a flexible air duct). The corrugated pipe is connected to the outlet, which is covered with a protective grille and is located under the roof soffit (that is, under the roof overhang).

Once the air duct is installed and secured, you can begin installing the axial overhead fan. It is inserted into a box and securely fixed to the wall. How it will have to be attached will depend on the specific situation.

The overhead axial fan is fixed in window opening and connects to the power supply. It is advisable to place the cable extending from the fan to the switch into a plastic cable channel. It is mounted on the wall and placed along the ceiling. And so that the cable is not noticeable, it is hidden above the suspended structure.

Video: Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet: