Reinforcement of an armored belt on aerated concrete, important tips. Armopoyas

Reinforced belt(armopoyas) - a reinforced concrete layer that is laid along the entire perimeter of the building. The installation of an armored belt with reinforcement and formwork increases strength load-bearing walls. This allows you to increase the strength and service life of the structure. As practice shows, it is practically not subject to destruction even during soil subsidence or shifting. Armopoyas are also called seismic belts, reinforced concrete or unloading belts.

Why do you need an armored belt and support frame?

The building materials that are used for construction today have many advantages. However, most of them are characterized by insufficient rigidity and negatively perceive point forces.

Reinforced belt (reinforced belt) - a reinforced concrete layer that is laid along the entire perimeter of the building

In order to strengthen buildings made of brick or block materials, you need to know how to make formwork for an armored belt. Most often they resort to this during:

• construction of a shallow foundation;
• building a house on a site with a slope;
• close location of the building to the reservoir;
• construction work on subsidence soil;
• construction of structures in seismically active zones.

The production of armored belts is carried out using several technologies: with disposable or removable formwork. Using ready-made blocks of permanent formwork, you can quickly assemble a form for pouring concrete. Typically, in this case, polystyrene foam blocks are used - this way the formation of cold bridges is excluded.

Disposable and removable formwork can be done by hand. In the latter case, boards are used instead of ready-made blocks - this significantly reduces the cost of construction.

When is an armored belt device necessary?

Soil shrinkage, wind loads and temperature fluctuations have a significant impact on the condition of the building. In order to make the building invulnerable to negative factors environment, additional reinforcement will be required. The maximum efficiency is demonstrated by the seismic belt when constructed from gas silicate blocks (they are especially vulnerable to bending type deformations.)

Belt reinforcement with four-bar mesh

The armored belt takes the main load and helps to increase the service life of the structure. You need to use it:

• to evenly distribute the load on the building frame;
• when attaching timber to the tops of walls (an armored belt under the roof prevents the occurrence of excessive vertical loads);
• in order to correct mistakes made during masonry;
• fixing a closed line, which is the basis for fastening the roof;
• ensuring high rigidity of the building.

Formwork for armored belts also simplifies the process of pouring foundations, walls, ceilings and other reinforced concrete structures. This system consists of a deck in contact with concrete, scaffolding and fastening elements. Formwork is made from various materials:

• rolled, sheet steel;
• aluminum;
• boards, chipboard or plywood;
• plastic and its varieties.

DIY foundation formwork

What is the structure of a reinforced belt?

A long-lasting and reliable foundation requires a lot of building materials. To avoid wasteful expenses, experts recommend using a special calculator for calculating armored belts. You can find it on thematic sites - you just need to enter the basic parameters of the future foundation. The exact calculation of the armored belt is carried out based on the following data:

• tape length;
• tape width;
• desired foundation height;
• number of reinforcement threads;
• reinforcement diameter.

IN modern construction Several reinforced belts are used. Each armored belt design presented below differs in its installation method and purpose. It is recommended to take into account the features of each of them for durable and competent construction:

• the first belt (grillage) is poured simultaneously with the strip foundation (concrete is poured into the trench at 300-400 mm) This is the key to the strength of external and capital interior walls;
• the second belt is laid on top of foundation blocks 200-400 mm high. Since it distributes the load on the foundation from the entire house, it is important to use reinforcement during the construction of each floor of multi-story buildings;

The third belt is designed to tighten the walls and prevent cracks from appearing in the future

• the third belt is designed to tighten the walls and prevent cracks from appearing in the future. The arrangement of armored belt formwork promotes uniform load distribution over window and doorways– it is laid on top of silicate blocks, under interfloor slabs;
• the armored belt under the roof takes on the entire load from the roof, negative impact strong wind and precipitation. It is performed under the roof beams to strengthen the beams using anchor bolts.

How to make formwork for armored belts

If you have chosen a more economical formwork method, it is important to install wooden panels in such a way that their position is not disturbed due to concrete pressure.

You need to pass the anchors through the wood and install plugs on them using electric welding. Filling the interfloor reinforced belt is much faster:

• a 6 x 100 mm screw is attached to the bottom of the wooden panel;
• the distance between the screws should be about 700 mm;
• the shield is applied to the wall, a hole is drilled into which a screw is inserted;
• recommended hole diameter is 6 mm.

Top part The formwork is also installed quite simply, according to a similar scheme, but instead of a screw, a self-tapping screw is used. A hole is drilled in the brick or face masonry seam into which the reinforcement is driven. Next, the self-tapping screw and reinforcement are tied together with binding wire. The distance between the fastening elements should be maintained within 1-1.5 m. After the reinforced belt has hardened, the formwork can be removed. In the warm season, concrete sets in a day; in winter and autumn it will take more than two days.

Formwork for armored belts under floor slabs

It is important to control the level of the upper edge of the formwork - differences should not exceed 1 cm. From this point of view, it is more rational to use permanent or combined formwork.

If you plan to further insulate the facade with foam plastic - permanent formwork made of polystyrene blocks will become an element of the insulating layer. The only difference between the manufacturing technology of such formwork and removable formwork is the connection of several parts for the armored belt of the floor. They should be fastened in such a way that during the concrete hardening process the solution does not move them apart.

How to properly fill an armored belt

A high-quality installation of an armored belt consists of proper laying of the reinforcement frame and filling the forms with concrete. The most reliable is considered to be a frame made of metal rods (8-10 mm cross-section), fastened together with wire and laid horizontally in a mold. It is important to fasten the frame with a ring of binding wire every 50 cm.

In order for the construction of a reinforced belt to be as effective as possible, it is necessary to pour the solution so that the entire reinforcement frame is completely immersed in concrete. After pouring, make sure that the metal rods do not come into contact with the formwork: in order to adjust the height, you can place pieces of brick or other material under the frame construction material. At the final stage, all that remains is to pour the concrete into the molds and compact it. After it has completely “set”, the forms are disassembled.

Pouring the armored belt with concrete

To strengthen the foundation and load-bearing structures of the future building, it is not necessary to have special skills. Using the following recommendations, you will learn how to properly fill the armored belt so that the building is stable and durable, despite any external negative factors.

• under the floor beams will last much longer if you first level the walls and clean them of residues concrete mortar;
• choosing material for fastening wooden shields, it is important to use self-tapping screws. They, unlike nails, can be quickly removed using a cordless screwdriver;
• fiberglass reinforcement is resistant to low temperatures, but at extreme high temperatures the material begins to melt - this must be taken into account when choosing building materials;
• When reinforcing brickwork, ensure complete sealing of the joints. Fill the resulting gaps with a thick solution containing polyurethane foam or special film;
• It is especially important to carry out the formwork in one step (you can find out more about how to properly reinforce a strip foundation with your own hands on this website);
• the main condition for reinforcement is a closed structure. Strengthening should not be interrupted under any circumstances;

• there are several conflicting opinions about whether it is possible to weld reinforcement for the foundation. Experts say that the strength and rigidity at the weld joint are somewhat reduced.
• it is preferable to use high-quality concrete of at least M200 grade;
• correct reinforcement of corners implies fastening reinforcement only using bent elements;
• during hot periods, you need to generously moisten the treated surfaces with water - this way you will prevent cracks from appearing in the frozen solution.

In order for the Mauerlat to hold tightly at the installation site, it is best to equip it with an armored belt. In this case, the structure becomes more rigid and durable, and can be used as a reinforced support.

Why do you need an armored belt, is it needed under the roof?

The role of this reinforcement in achieving the overall strength of the building is difficult to overestimate. First you need to figure out why exactly the armored belt is used under the Mauerlat.

Any building is subject to a number of loads:

1. Vertical. They are created by the weight of the roof, as well as atmospheric phenomena such as snow, wind and rain.
2. Spacers. They are provoked by rafters resting on the wall. This load acts to move the building apart, increasing as the roof load increases.

Certain modern materials They perceive very poorly the point impact that destroys them. These include expanded clay concrete walls, for whom the installation of an armored belt under the roof is necessary measure. Therefore, when constructing buildings from similar materials the presence of such a design is a natural detail. However, there are situations when difficulties arise with its installation. In such cases, the Mauerlat is attached to foam blocks or expanded clay blocks with chemical anchors.

The reasons for this approach may be the following:

• Drilling holes for studs in cellular blocks may cause them to break or crack.
• Hanging rafters is created different load in a number of directions: this can lead to the moving apart of the blocks, as well as deformation of the walls and roof.
• When laying rafters directly on foam concrete blocks An ideal roof level position is required. Otherwise, due to the resulting point load, the foam blocks may undergo various types of destruction. To avoid such phenomena, it is customary to equip the Mauerlat with an armored belt.

Brick walls have high mechanical strength. The Mauerlat is attached to them with conventional anchors and embedded elements. The only exceptions are regions where seismic activity is observed: there the question of whether an armored belt is needed under the roof usually does not arise. In this case, the presence of an armored belt under the Mauerlat is also mandatory for brick buildings.

The purpose of the reinforcing belt in practice comes down to the following functions:

1. The walls do not deform in the event of soil movements, or when uneven shrinkage occurs. The building parameters are maintained within the original limits.
2. Helps to align walls horizontally and correct errors when laying them.
3. The structure becomes more rigid.
4. All loads occurring on load-bearing walls are distributed evenly.
5. good mechanical strength reinforcing belt allows it to be used for reliable fixation of the most important elements, including the Mauerlat.

Parameters and features of the reinforcing belt under the Mauerlat

In order for the structure to be durable, you need to carefully calculate the dimensions of the armored belt under the Mauerlat:

1. When making an armored belt with your own hands, the height for the reinforcing belt is usually 20 cm (at least 15 cm). It definitely should not exceed the width of the wall.
2. If possible, the width of the wall and the belt should match.
3. When calculating the length, measure the distance to the desired walls.
4. The cross-section of the structure must be no less than 25x25 cm.

It is very important that the belt is continuous, with the same strength indicators of the individual component sections. It is most convenient to make a monolithic belt under the Mauerlat from concrete. It should be poured in one go, with insertion inside the reinforcement. Its diameter must be at least 10 mm: the individual elements are firmly fastened and bandaged. An armored belt made of brick under the Mauerlat is used quite rarely.

The parameters of the reinforced belt for expanded clay concrete blocks are based on their thickness. For clarity, it is better to consider an example of the calculation of these structures. As SNiP states, the thickness of the reinforcing layer is 1/3 narrower than the load-bearing wall. Therefore, if we take the wall thickness as 40 cm, then 1/3 of it will be equal to 133 mm: minimum value The thickness of the armored belt in this case will be 300 mm (if you round off the number 267).

As a result, a wall with a thickness of 400 mm will have the size of the inner part of the U-shaped block within 300 mm, which will also act as formwork. On brick walls The outer formwork is made of half a brick, and boards are used to make the inner formwork.

Installation of formwork

Several methods can be used for this:

1. From wooden planks or slabs. They are fixed to the walls using bars, fastened from above. When dismantling the formwork, the upper parts are dismantled: the lower elements are left inside the fill.
2. Using side stops.
3. U-shaped blocks. To ensure that the belt is continuous, the blocks are cut at the corners of the house.
4. By outside walls can be laid in 100 mm blocks in one row. Several rows of bricks, laid on edge, or boards are laid along the inside.
5. Using working longitudinal rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm. There must be at least 4 of them.
6. Intermediate jumpers equipped with reinforcing clamps. The diameter of the products is 6-8 mm, with a placement step of 20-40 cm. It is not recommended to use a large step, since the working rods may shift during concrete pouring. As a result, the integrity of the reinforcing belt is compromised.
7. Fastened with binding wire. Welding connections are prohibited, as this weakens the reinforcement and makes the structure susceptible to corrosion.
8. Threaded rods. They are equipped with holes that are pre-drilled in the formwork. The diameter of the stud should be slightly smaller internal section tubes. When placing a pin inside the tube, you need to ensure that its ends pass through the pre-made holes. The entire product is tightened with nuts, using large washers as spacers. Only the tubes should remain inside the concrete monolith. To achieve this, after pouring and pre-hardening of the reinforced belt, the nuts are unscrewed, the formwork is dismantled, and the studs are knocked out.

It is important to take into account the need to insulate the wall opposite the reinforced belt, especially if the formwork is made of boards. This eliminates the risk of concrete freezing in winter time. To orient the upper edge of the formwork, a strictly horizontal plane and water level are selected.

As for laying the mesh, at the corners and at the interface areas it is subject to additional reinforcement using curved reinforcement. The recommended overlap size is 300-400 mm. Such reinforcement is best done composite reinforcement, which is both cheaper and lighter. In addition, such products do not rot, do not rust, have greater tensile strength and are easy to use.

Filling the armored belt

To make the structure as strong as possible, pouring must be done in one step. For this purpose, concrete grade of at least M200 is used. Usually it is necessary to pour a significant amount of solution, so it is best to prepare a concrete pump in advance.

At self-cooking the solution is one part of M400 cement, three parts of washed sand and three parts of crushed stone. The formwork can be dismantled 4-5 days after pouring; Full maturation of concrete occurs in 3-4 weeks.

When pouring concrete, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

1. It is impossible to do without the formation of internal voids. To remove them, piercing the solution using reinforcement or vibration is used.
2. It is important to moisturize concrete. This way it becomes stronger. This procedure is carried out every day while the concrete hardens.

Attaching the Mauerlat to the armored belt

Before attaching the Mauerlat to the armored belt, in order to avoid rotting or burning of the support beam, it is treated with special impregnations. To achieve solidity of the Mauerlat, straight locks or oblique cuts are used to splice it.

This is done as follows:

• The support beam is equipped with holes.
• The Mauerlat is attached using pins or anchors.
• During the installation process, it is necessary to go through a layer of roofing material.
• Large washers and nuts are used for fastening.
• It is recommended to secure the tightening using locknuts.
• To cut off protruding parts, use a grinder.

Embedded studs

Sometimes, in order to secure the Mauerlat, studs with a diameter of 12 mm or more are pre-installed on the armored belt, protruding 3-4 cm above the Mauerlat. The installation step of such studs is 100 cm: they are attached to clamps with knitting wire.

As for the question of the feasibility of making a Mauerlat in the presence of a reinforcing belt, then indeed, theoretically, the rafters can be fixed to the belt. However, in practice this will require a significant number of additional measures. So it’s much easier to go the traditional route of using a reinforced belt under the Mauerlat.

Armored belt is a mandatory element when building a house, performing many important functions. We will talk about the types, purpose and technology of making a reinforced belt with our own hands in our article.

IN general view reinforcing belt is a monolithic reinforced concrete structure, encircling the load-bearing or at least external walls of the building. There are several names for this element: seismic belt, unloading belt, reinforced belt, reinforced belt, etc. In any case, it is a frame or mesh made of reinforcement, filled with concrete. Required condition for any armored belt - it should not be interrupted, and therefore the filling is done in a circular manner without interruptions, at a time.

The armored belt performs several main functions:

1. Strengthens the walls and prevents them from moving apart.
2. Evenly distributes the load on the walls of the lower floor from the walls of the upper floor.
3. Allows you to avoid uneven shrinkage of the building and the formation of cracks.
4. Levels the masonry due to distribution liquid concrete strictly in the horizontal plane.
5. Sometimes point loads occur due to distortions or builder errors, and the use of an armored belt allows you to avoid these harmful phenomena.

Depending on the construction method, the number of storeys of the building, the type of foundation and the geological features of the area, from one to 4 reinforced belts are used.

When an armored belt is not needed

Let’s say right away that interfloor and under-roof armored belts are always needed. When monolithic foundation on a cushion slab, a grillage and a base armored belt are not needed.

They are also not used in the construction of wooden and frame-panel houses, although sometimes pile grillages are used when the house stands on marshy soil, and also when they want to further strengthen an already not so strong structure.

The pile grillage performs the functions of a basement armored belt, so its construction is quite rational. If a grillage is not made for a prefabricated strip foundation, then the second belt can also be omitted, there will be no benefit from it, and such a house will not stand for long.

Types of reinforced belts

There are 4 main types of armored belts:

1. Grillage, or sub-foundation armored belt, as well as pile grillage.
2. Armo-belt between the foundation and walls of the building, basement armo-belt.
3. Reinforced belt along the top row of walls, on which floor slabs will be laid (interfloor belt).
4. An unloading belt under the roof, to which the Mauerlat will be attached.

If the number of floors of a building increases, the number of interfloor belts increases accordingly. Now it’s worth considering each of the listed reinforced belts separately.

Grillage

The grillage is the lower, most often underground armored belt on which the walls rest strip foundation. Also called a grillage is an armored belt that connects individual pillars or piles of a columnar or pile foundations. In this case, it most often plays the role of a plinth belt.

If the reinforced belt serves as a support for the walls of a strip foundation, then it is necessary to dig a trench under it to a depth that must be determined by the engineer, based on the climatic, geodetic, seismic and other initial data of the area chosen for construction. The bottom of the trench is covered with sand mixed with crushed stone, sometimes with clean sand if the soil is hard and not watery.

The height of the grillage is usually 30-50 cm, and the width is from 70 to 120 cm. Unlike other types of belts, the grillage is laid under all load-bearing walls of the structure. The lower belt should be the strongest, because the whole house will stand on it. This element will experience the most serious loads associated with shrinkage and sliding of the soil, exposure to soil moisture, etc.

It is better to use 12-14 mm reinforcement with a 10 mm cross brace. The strapping pitch is no more than 200 mm. First, we lay two reinforcing rods 6 meters long on the ground and weld them with a transverse piece of reinforcement along the edges and in the middle. We knit the remaining transverse pieces with wire, since welding changes the strength of the reinforcement through the effect of temperature or, in simpler terms, “releases” the metal.

Next, we make the same “ladder”, after which we weld these ladders with crossbars at the ends and in the middle, as before. We knit the rest of the crossbars, just knit them! This is how we got a reinforcement frame that will be laid in the grillage. Dimensions (thickness and height) should be made so that the concrete covers the reinforcement by 5 cm on all sides. If the reinforcement touches the ground or “looks out”, it will quickly rot and the integrity of the structure will be compromised.

This is the foundation of the house, and it must be strong. It is better to make a grillage with a safety margin of 20-30%, without sparing the reinforcement and without skimping on the grade of concrete. It will pay off later.

The columnar grillage also distributes the load and ties the individual pillars into one whole, preventing them from moving apart. It also does not allow spot shrinkage of the house to occur, but forces the building to “grow” into the ground evenly and equally at all points

However, pile and columnar grillage often made of wood, called strapping. This is not considered an armored belt.

After the walls of a prefabricated strip foundation, for example, from concrete blocks or bricks, are built on a solid grillage, a reinforced belt should be constructed again. The foundation walls can protrude above the ground, they can be level with it, we build the armored belt regardless of this.

It is believed that if the grillage is made correctly and its strength is beyond doubt, then the plinth belt does not need to be particularly strengthened. But we are building “to last,” so we will not skimp on the durability of the house and its strength, but we also don’t need overspending.

For example, it is generally accepted that the plinth belt is installed only around the perimeter external walls, but if the floors are slabs, it is better to do it along all load-bearing walls. If external insulation no walls are planned, then the width of the armored belt is equal to the width of the wall. If there is insulation, then the width of the armored belt must be made taking into account the insulation, or prepared polystyrene foam strips must be inserted under the formwork before pouring.

In principle, mesh reinforcement is sufficient, i.e. without a frame. For the mesh we use three longitudinal rods of 12 mm and make the pitch of the transverse rods 10 cm. The height of the belt is usually 20-40 cm. It is better to make 40 or at least 30, it will be stronger and more reliable. Don’t forget about waterproofing gaskets made of a double layer of roofing material or other material so that moisture does not rise up into your house through the capillaries of concrete. This, of course, does not cancel the waterproofing of the foundation, but it is still required.

Interfloor reinforced belt

An interfloor belt is constructed to strengthen the walls and evenly distribute the load from the slabs across the entire frame of the house. That is why this belt is called unloading.

It also prevents the walls from moving apart, which tend to do this under the influence of axial loads. Well, in the end, he levels the plane of the crown of the box, which can “walk” even with a master mason.

It is better to make interfloor belts with a frame of 4 longitudinal reinforcing rods 12 mm, 40 cm high and as wide as the walls, taking into account thermal insulation. It must be laid on all load-bearing walls. Many argue that only the grillage should be placed under all the walls, but the floor slabs will put pressure on all the supporting structures, so it is better to make an interfloor reinforced belt along all the walls.

Underroof or Mauerlat armored belt

This is also quite an important belt. First, it distributes the load from rafter system, gables and roofs in general. Secondly, it allows you to securely fasten the Mauerlat. Thirdly, it, again, levels the horizontal of the box, which is important for the successful construction of a rafter system, where geometric accuracy is important.

The last armored belt is performed by analogy with the previous one. If laying the slabs is not planned, then the belt is mounted around the perimeter of the external walls, and if the rafters are inclined, then it would not hurt to lay the masonry on the middle load-bearing wall, on which the ridge posts and the bench will rest.

Formwork and concrete work

Formwork is usually made of boards, which are assembled into panels on the ground and attached to the wall on quick installation. Sometimes the boards are stitched with reinforcement and tightened by welding by welding the knob. Also, this role can be performed by steel wire, which is threaded into pre-drilled holes and pulled together with a lever made of reinforcement or a metal rod.

The formwork boards are connected on top with scraps of timber or boards. In general, the methods of strengthening the formwork depend on the pouring methods: if casting will be done from a sufficient height, then the formwork should be strengthened as much as possible. If concrete is poured from buckets, then such reinsurance will not be needed. Special attention should be given to board joints, corners and turns.

The lower part of the formwork takes the greatest load, so sometimes it is nailed down with reinforcement with a welded bridge that prevents the board from moving away from the wall.

The reinforcement frame is laid in such a way that the rods are covered on all sides with a layer of concrete of at least 5 cm.

Since pouring is done at a height, it is advisable to use a concrete pump or a special funnel with locking mechanism, which will be filled with concrete and opened as needed to fill the formwork. Such a funnel must be carried by a crane.

The basics of monolithic casting, vibration and other similar issues are described in detail in our other articles, for example, “How to properly pour a foundation for a house.” You can read about choosing cement in the article “How to choose cement”. The only caveat regarding the work of casting formwork at height is the issue of safety. You should also vibrate carefully so as not to damage the formwork and frame.

The formwork is removed using a crowbar or crowbar. In hot weather, this can be done within a day; in cold weather, it is better to wait two or three days. The grade of concrete should be used not lower than M400.

So, you found out:

1. Armopoyas - necessary element supporting structure systems.
2. Armored belts come in several types, and all of them are necessary under certain circumstances.
3. The armored belt is not a structurally complex element.
4. The cost of the reinforced belt justifies the benefits obtained.

Of course, it is better that all work to determine the parameters, applicability, necessity and other features of this structural element, and its production was carried out by experienced specialists. This is the part that is almost impossible to redo, but it performs important functions. Therefore, it is better to save on something else: wallpaper or railings on the porch, but not on the armored belt.

The reinforcement in the reinforced belt consists of working reinforcement (10-12mm), and structural reinforcement of a smaller diameter (frame - 6mm). Often, reinforcement is made of 4 or 6 rods. In this article we will describe in detail and show reinforcement schemes, methods of bending reinforcement and other nuances of the reinforced belt.

The reinforcement frame is needed in order to fix the working reinforcement in the correct position. That is, two or three bars of reinforcement at the bottom of the reinforced belt, and two bars at the top.

For a frame, fittings with a diameter of 6 mm are quite suitable; you can even use thick wire.

The size of the frame should correspond to the thickness of your wall, taking into account the insulation and protective layer of concrete. Extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm is best suited as insulation.

Often the frame has edge dimensions of approximately 120-200 mm.

Such square frames can be easily made in the following way.

We take a board (20-50 mm thick. 200 mm wide), draw a square, for example, 150 by 150 mm, drill a hole in the corners of the square.

The holes should be about 9mm so that the 10mm reinforcement fits tightly. The reinforcing bars themselves should be about half a meter long.

Place the board on the ground, hammer four reinforcing bars through the holes of the board into the ground. The template for bending the frames is ready. It is more convenient to bend the reinforcement along the frame using a pipe. For such a frame, the reinforcement blanks should be about 600 mm long.

Working fittings of the armored belt

The working reinforcement is a thick ribbed wire with a diameter of 10 mm, preferably 12 mm. The working reinforcement in the armored belt works in bending, creating high rigidity of the structure. The reinforcement must be continuous (circular) and pass over all load-bearing walls. If the building has very long openings, then the places of the reinforced belt above the openings need to be reinforced with an additional lower reinforcement bar.

The working fittings must be inside the frame, and are tied to the frames with ordinary binding wire; welding is not needed here.

1. The height of the armored belt is made from 200 to 300 mm.
2. The distance between frames should be from 200 to 400mm.
3. The overlap of the reinforcing bars should be 500 mm.
4. To reduce the consumption of reinforcement, it is better to use longer rods to reduce the number of overlaps.
5. Don't forget about protective layer concrete, which should be 40 mm on all sides.

At the corners, be sure to bend the working reinforcement and use additional reinforcement clamps, see the diagram below. It is convenient to bend the reinforcement using a long pipe.

Reinforcement schemes for armored belts

It is also worth noting that it is better to install the reinforcement cage at the place where it is poured, since when assembled it will weigh a lot.

The formwork must be strong enough to withstand the pressure of the concrete. Pay special attention to leveling the formwork along all planes.

If professional tool If you don’t have concrete to vibrate, you can use the following method: take a hammer drill and use the hammer mode to hit the reinforcement, the concrete is compacted and air bubbles come out.

Correct, competent installation floors – a guarantee of reliable, long-term operation of buildings. For buildings made of blocks (aerated concrete), additional support is required - reinforcement. An armored belt in a house made of aerated concrete is a special additional structure that is required when installing floor beams and roofs. Production of reinforced belts for houses made of cellular concrete, installation of the ceiling is regulated by SNiP. Here are the brands and characteristics of the beams, the necessary parameters for supporting them on the walls, what they are made of and how they are made. Compliance with these standards is directly related to the structural stability of building structures.

Armored belt is a mandatory element when building a house

Why is an armored belt needed?

Structure from aerated concrete material will not be able to withstand high loads (shrinkage of the building, settlement of the soil underneath, daily temperature changes, seasonal changes). As a result, the blocks crack and collapse. To avoid various types of deformations, monolithic reinforced concrete devices are installed. The reinforced belt takes on these loads, distributes them evenly, ensuring the reliability of the structure, and connects the walls into one whole.

It is also needed to distribute the vertical load. Giving the structure rigidity, it prevents movement of the floor ( aerated concrete blocks expand with the movement of moisture and steam). For this, it also received the name - unloading, seismic belt. Another purpose of armored belts is to protect the edges of the upper blocks from destruction (installation interfloor ceilings). Remove the point load of timber beam frames when constructing the roof. Taking these qualities into account, an armored belt is required for beams and floor slabs of the second (subsequent, roof) floors in a house made of aerated concrete blocks.

An armored belt is needed to evenly distribute the load on the foundation and walls

When constructing one-story buildings, the question often arises whether an armored belt is needed for one-story house from aerated concrete. This element is simply necessary if:

support beams (mauerlat) are installed on which the roof rafters are attached, this is especially true for projects one-story houses with attic;

the foundation is made on unstable soil to connect the entire structure into one (load-bearing) system.

A prerequisite for houses made of aerated concrete blocks is a complete loop of the belt. The outline of the structure must be without breaks. If you refuse to use an armored belt, the appearance of cracks is inevitable. Even despite the lungs wooden floors and reinforcement of masonry from aerated concrete blocks.

Unlike brick structures, for a house made of aerated concrete, the reinforcing belt should be made as a single ring

Interfloor reinforced belt

This type of construction is made for slab or beam floors. The main purposes of floors include the perception and transfer of the load of its own weight, the interior, people onto the walls, the division of the internal space of buildings into floors, and the overlap of spans. This Basic structure, resting on external and internal walls around the entire perimeter.

The basis for pouring the armored belt is the supporting surface of the load-bearing walls, which absorbs the entire mass of the building. General requirements:

installation is carried out along the entire perimeter of the future building, taking into account the internal walls;

for external load-bearing walls, blocks with a density of at least D-500 are used;

height, made according to the height of aerated concrete, or less is allowed (200-400 mm);

belt width – 500 mm (possibly reduced by 100-150 mm);

the reinforcement frame rests on supports (brick, pieces of blocks, plastic clips) height 3 cm so as not to touch the walls, thus creating a so-called protective concrete layer;

For pouring, concrete of at least grade B-15 is used.

Formwork for pouring concrete mortar with reinforcing mesh

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Reinforced belt for aerated concrete under floor beams, poured into pre-prepared formwork. This frame is made from:

Plastic.

Aluminum.

3. Aerated concrete blocks.

This type of formwork is used most often. This is the cheapest and most popular option. Installing double sided removable wooden frame(made of wood), it is fastened with self-tapping screws on both sides of the wall (to aerated concrete blocks). The upper part is tightened with wooden jumpers (step 800-1000mm). This is necessary so that when pouring concrete the structure does not move apart.

Wood formwork is the most common option due to its availability.

The reinforcement frame (reinforcement diameter 8-14 mm), made in the form of a “ladder” (connected by jumpers in increments of 5-7 cm), is placed in the prepared space. The rods are knitted together using knitting wire (every half a meter), forming square shape. It is not recommended to use welding due to rusting of places welding seams in concrete. For beam floors (with not a high load), a frame of two rods, with a monolith height of 30 cm, is sufficient. For covering with slabs, an armored belt with increased reliability is used (4 rods and a monolith - 40 cm).

After removing the formwork, outer wall insulated together with armored belt. If, during finishing, the outer walls are only plastered, then to remove the “cold bridge”, the formwork is moved deeper into the wall. And then insulation is installed in the resulting niche.

One-sided can be used removable formwork. In this case, the external function is performed by aerated concrete blocks (10 cm thick). They are laid on the bottom row using glue. WITH inside a wooden frame is attached. After that, insulation (5 cm) and fittings are laid. The top is also tightened with jumpers.

Video description

How to make wooden formwork for an armored belt:

Belt using blocks

The production of such formwork requires additional additional blocks or ready-made U-shaped aerated concrete products. In this case, internal (5 cm thick) and external (10 cm) or U-blocks (with walls 5 and 10 cm) are installed on glue (on top of the previous row). In the internal space, fittings and insulation are placed (to the outer wall). Afterwards, concrete is poured. For openings (doors, windows), at the level of the top of the previous row of masonry, wooden lintels are installed. They are secured with vertical supports.

This formwork option is relatively easy and quick to install. But it is not very popular due to the need to purchase additional material, and as a result, increased construction costs.

An armored belt using concrete blocks will be more expensive, but with their help the place of reinforcement will not be noticeable

Belt for Mauerlat

This armored belt is installed from below attic space, both for one-story and two or more storey buildings. It is necessary for installing fasteners under the Mauerlat, and takes the main load from the rafter system (vertical, tensile forces) and the load from snow and wind. Mountings installed for timber simply in aerated concrete, it will not withstand these loads. They will become loose (due to the low strength of the blocks) and the Mauerlat will move from its place, which will inevitably lead to negative consequences. It also plays the role of additional strengthening of the walls, preventing them from cracking.

Such a belt can be made of reduced dimensions due to its thickness (by correctly calculating the load) and two reinforcing rods can be used for the frame. Distinctive feature Vertical studs with nuts serve as such an armored belt. They are installed with reinforcement cage, before pouring concrete. It is on these fastenings that the Mauerlat will be installed, secured on top with nuts. This is the basis for the roof rafter system.

In the same way, you can make an armored belt in a house made of aerated concrete and under wooden floors. Pre-prepared fasteners for wooden structures, will avoid subsequent drilling of concrete to install anchors.

Pouring concrete

To fill the belt, after completing all preparatory work, used ready-mixed concrete(M200) or manufactured locally in a 3-5-1 ratio from:

• cement (M400).

Filling is carried out not in parts, but completely around the entire perimeter. If such a process is impossible, the necessary jumpers are made in advance. Before pouring the next batch of concrete, the temporary lintels are removed, the joints are moistened with water and filled with concrete. The solution is compacted with an iron pin, removing air bubbles from it. During the hardening process (about 5 days), the concrete is watered to increase strength.

Video description

Preparation of solution for filling armored belt:

Conclusion

Reinforced concrete made according to all necessary parameters and rules monolithic belt, will give a house made of aerated concrete blocks the necessary strength and durability. It will protect walls from premature cracks and allow you to make a reliable roof.