What to plant next to carrots. Mixed plantings: what can be planted with what in the same bed

Not everyone knows that you can plant beets next to carrots. Within the same ridge, these two crops do not get along very well, so you can plant them next to each other in exceptional cases. If all conditions are met, obtaining a rich harvest is quite possible, but the compatibility of these crops is the subject of much debate.

The main rule for a good harvest is compliance with agricultural technology when sowing seeds. It is equally important to observe the conditions in which the planting process is carried out. The timeliness of sowing is a fundamentally important point for carrots and beets, two of the people’s most beloved crops.

Plants located close to each other interact in a certain way. Some provide each other with invaluable assistance in pest control, while others only harm their neighbor, shading it and preventing it from fully developing. To avoid mistakes when organizing mixed beds, you need to understand which crops can grow together during crop rotation and how to organize the care of such a bed.

Mixed plantings

If the garden area is small and you still have dreams of a varied harvest, then you can plant plants in compacted rows. An even better choice is mixed beds. This is an option in which a gardener simultaneously cultivates several crops in one area. They must be planted taking into account the compatibility of the plants. It would be useful to adhere to a certain scheme.

Wanting to get a good harvest, the summer resident begins in the fall to think through the layout of the beds on the site for the next season, the assortment of plants, and care options. Of course, without high-quality fertilizers, good soil and skillful hands, you cannot get an excellent harvest, but it is also important to know how to correctly arrange crops in terms of their influence on each other.

The biochemical effect of crops on each other is called allelopathy. It is designed to provide conditions for the existence of plants that are beneficial to both cultures. In some cases, the neighborhood can have a depressing effect. The fact is that each part of the plant releases phytoncides and antibiotics into the environment - active substances that are absorbed by the “neighbor” and have a beneficial effect or have a negative effect on the plants placed nearby. The same factor should be taken into account when the question arises of what to plant after carrots next year.

The key to obtaining a successful harvest is the competent selection of plants that have the ability not only to coexist together, but also to produce a good harvest. Beautiful healthy fruits of carrots in open ground and beets will be the best confirmation of this.

Drawing up a planting plan

The formation of a planting plan should take into account the compatibility of crops. It is better to think over a plan for what to plant after carrots next year in the winter, because with the onset of field work, the need arises to form beds, and there is no time to think about what can be planted and where.

Plants differ in terms of ripening. Rational use of the territory assumes that crops with vegetative periods of different lengths can be placed in one place - this way the land will not stand idle.

The fundamental factor taken into account when planning joint plantings is the likely compatibility of vegetables within the same bed. This factor may affect the harvest in the future.

Different parts of the dacha differ in the composition of the soil and its fertility. Among the crops, there are those that consume significant amounts of nutrients, and there are those that practically do not use soil resources. When drawing up a plan for planting beets and carrots in open ground, these characteristics of the crops should be taken into account.

So, all plants should be divided into three conditional groups:

Plants that consume nutrients as much as possible. These are vegetables that require a large amount of nitrogen to grow: pumpkin, cabbage, chard, onions, peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini.
Average consumers are radishes, eggplants, potatoes, chicory, spinach, kohlrabi, carrots and beets.
Crops that use virtually no nutrients found in the soil. These include beans, peas, herbs and spices.

Based on this condition, carrots and beets can be planted in the same bed - the vegetables will not deprive each other of valuable nutrients.

However, before planting, you should still take into account some details that can become an important condition for the successful growth of both crops and will help determine what should be planted immediately after carrots next year.

Carrot

You can find carrots in almost every summer cottage. The optimal neighbors will be:

sage;
peas;
beans;
tomato;
radish;
salad;
rosemary.

There are also crops that we don’t plant next to carrots: celery, parsley, dill. It is better to place these plants at some distance. Do not forget about the predecessors of carrots, which should not be too demanding on the composition of the soil.

Beet

Its benefits are difficult to overestimate. The vitamin-rich composition is simply irreplaceable in winter, so growing this vegetable is a must. Not everyone knows whether it can be planted next to other crops. The most productive impact of beets will be if the following grow nearby:

broccoli;
asparagus;
salad;
cauliflower.

It is not recommended to place mustard and beans in close proximity to beets.

When to plant carrots and beets together

The first condition that must be met when planting carrots in open ground and beets in the same bed is the correct planting time. The most favorable days for this are considered to be periods when the daytime air temperature becomes more than 3 °C. These crops tolerate frost well, but you need to be careful about the type of crop you want to grow.

The variety of root crop determines the date of sowing carrots. Varieties can be:

early ripeness (growing season - up to 100 days);
mid-season (growing season - up to 120 days);
late ripening varieties (growing season - up to 140 days).

At the end of April, the seeds of this crop can be placed in the soil. If this procedure is postponed to the first ten days of May, then it is necessary to sow mid-season varieties. Carrots intended for long-term winter storage are planted until the beginning of June.

It is important that the timing of planting beets and carrots in open ground may coincide, but then the varieties must be different in terms of ripening time. Beets are more cold-resistant, but may die during frosts. This means that planting seeds is possible no earlier than early May. At the same time, it is necessary to plant mid-season carrots.

When forming beds in vegetable gardens, one should also take into account such a factor as the size of the tops. Carrots, as a rule, grow stronger, and if early varieties are planted on the sunny side, then later the beet tops can be drowned out by carrot leaves. You should pay close attention to this fact and plant carrots of medium ripeness next to the beets.

Rules for caring for a mixed bed

The main procedures that need to be done when caring for a carrot and beet bed are watering, fertilizing, weeding and pulling. Experienced gardeners know what they will have to face when growing. The approach to each plant should be individual, because the care requirements of vegetables are slightly different.

The first thinning of carrots can be done immediately after the first leaves appear. After a couple of weeks, the procedure is repeated. Planted plants should be watered infrequently, but efficiently. Whenever possible, you should weed and loosen the part of the bed where the carrots grow.

Beets need frequent weeding and thinning because they love light. Weeds and plants that are superfluous in the garden bed will prevent the required amount of light from entering, and the beet harvest will leave much to be desired. This will happen if access to sunlight is limited by the strong growth of the carrot leaf.

Pulling out beet sprouts is done at the moment when two true leaves appear. The excess can be pulled out again after two weeks, the gap between plants should be about 5 - 7 centimeters.

Some gardeners believe that beets and carrots can change the taste of each other, so if there is enough space, it is better to grow them separately. If this cannot be done, then the rules for caring for both crops must be followed.

When caring for an adjacent bed in which carrots and beets grow together, special attention should be paid to watering the plants. The first steps in this direction should be taken even before planting the seeds in open ground: it is necessary to thoroughly water the soil. Having absorbed all the water, the earth will become perfectly permeable to moisture.

During the process of growing root crops, the soil should be moistened evenly, otherwise the fruits will begin to crack and hurt.

What could be simpler than planting carrots in spring. But this is only at first glance. In fact, if you choose the wrong time and place for planting, or poorly prepare the seeds and soil, you can easily deprive yourself of a good harvest. Be reasonable and proceed with planting only after you know all the details of this process.

An important decision on the path to a good carrot harvest is the choice of variety. Faced with their wide variety, you may simply get confused and make a rash decision. To avoid this, check out this short list of the most common varieties.

Shantane 2461 - very large, stores well.
Losinoostrovskaya 13 - tender, juicy, keeps well.

Carrot Losinoostrovskaya 13

Nantes 4 is a very tasty and long carrot with a blunt end.
Incomparable - tasty, germinates well and stores well.

Carrot variety Incomparable

Important! Do not forget that only middle and late varieties of carrots are suitable for winter storage.

Correct landing is the key to success

Carrots are not one of those crops that can be planted anywhere, anyhow, anytime. If you want to get a bountiful harvest, first familiarize yourself with its requirements.

Where to plant carrots

The red-haired beauty loves the sunniest places in the country. It grows well after cucumbers, cabbage, onions, potatoes, peas and tomatoes. It is better not to plant carrots in places where greens were grown.

Choose a place to plant carrots in the fall to prepare it in advance. Dig up the area, adding ash and humus to the ground. Never use fresh manure, which will attract pests and lead to the accumulation of nitrates in the fruit. In the spring, before planting, loosen the soil allocated for the beds.

Carrots should be planted in a sunny area.

Read also:What pests attack carrots? Fighting methods

How spring planting occurs

Before planting, the seeds must be immersed in water to allow them to swell. If desired, use special stimulant medications. Planting should be done in shallow, moistened furrows. Do not sow too thickly - maintain a distance of 1-2 cm.

Advice! Carrot seeds are very small, making it very difficult to achieve a uniform, sparse planting. To make this task easier, buy seeds glued to paper tape, or glue them yourself to toilet paper with homemade starch glue. In this case, you will have to do without soaking, so water the soil generously when planting.

Gluing carrot seeds onto toilet paper will make planting easier

To improve germination, cover the planting site with film or non-woven material. When the seedlings grow a little, remove the covering material. Carrots grow slowly, so to ensure the rows are clearly visible, mix them with faster-growing radishes or lettuce when planting.

When to plant carrots in spring

To get the harvest as early as possible, some gardeners plant it in early spring. Are these timings good? Most often, seeds lying in cold soil take an extremely long time to germinate, and sometimes sprouts do not appear at all. Don’t forget that spring is different from spring, so if you’re lucky with the weather, you can count on success.
The safest time to plant carrots may vary from region to region. In most cases this is the end of April - beginning of May. The main thing is that the daytime temperature is kept at 15ºС, and the ground temperature is not less than 7ºС.

It is better to postpone planting in the spring until the earth has completely warmed up.

Some tips after planting carrots

After a month, thin out the seedlings, leaving gaps of 4 cm, and a little later do this again.
To make maintenance easier, mulch the soil.
Loosen the beds more often.
After thinning, remove the tops from the beds, and place onion beds nearby - this will help get rid of pests.

You can never have too many carrots

Planting carrots in the spring is not a very fussy task, but without knowledge of the main points of this process it is very difficult to get healthy shoots. Don't forget about the benefits of carrots for vision, hair and skin. An abundance of carrots in the house will help keep these parts of the body in excellent condition.

Planting onions and carrots in the same bed

Work in the garden

Experienced gardeners claim that onions and carrots get along well in the same bed, since their roots are located at different levels - the carrots are deep, and the onions are superficial, so they do not interfere with each other. But it is necessary that the greenery of the carrots does not shade the onions. There are no problems with growing, and the harvest and taste of vegetables will certainly please you. If you want to test this claim, select a garden bed and try growing onions and carrots in it.

For planting, the bed must be made 1.2 meters wide and in the spring it should be filled with fertilizer. For these purposes, you can use chicken manure (3-4 buckets) or compost (7-8 buckets). It is good to add 250 g of double superphosphate to the organic matter.

You need to plant onions and carrots at the same time. Planting material must first be prepared. To do this, stick the carrot seeds with starch paste onto thin paper cut into the width of the bed (1.2 m). The distance between the seeds should be approximately 2-3 cm. Before planting, the onion should be soaked for 2-3 hours in a humate solution.

Do not add anything to the beds where carrots will grow. And in the places where onions are planted, sprinkle the furrow with ash mixed with mineral fertilizer in the proportion of 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per liter jar of ash.

When planting, a strip of paper with seeds should be carefully laid across the width of the bed to a depth of about 2 cm and sprinkled with soil. Plant onions in the next row. It is important not to press the bulbs into the soil, but to carefully place them on it. And the distance between the rows should be from 10 to 15 cm. Cover the bed with plantings for 15 days with covering material.

The onion will grow first and should be fed. Onion feeding should be done when its feather grows to 8-10 cm.

To do this, prepare a solution: for 10 liters of water, take 1 tablespoon of ash, urea, double superphosphate extract and kerosene. It is good to repeat fertilizing after 10-12 days.

Following the onions, carrots begin to grow intensively: the root crops increase in size, acquiring a good taste.

In mid-August, the onion harvest can be harvested. And then expect a rich harvest of delicious carrots.

Many people think that zucchini and zucchini are the same thing. This is not entirely true, although zucchini is also a pumpkin crop. Zucchini is a very valuable vegetable. Over 10 varieties and hybrids of zucchini have appeared in our country. Unlike zucchini, zucchini can be eaten raw.

Is it possible to plant onions next to garlic together in the garden?

It contains much more vitamin C than zucchini, and carotene is 2 times more than carrots. Zucchini contains a large amount of carbohydrates, ascorbic acid, carotene, B vitamins, PP.

Many amateur gardeners plant carrots, and this is understandable. It is well known that carrots are one of the healthiest and best foods for the liver, kidneys and digestive tract. Carrots promote healthy metabolism, help with diarrhea and other digestive problems by killing harmful bacteria.

Swede

(Healthy and therapeutic nutrition)

Rutabaga (Brossico no pus ropifera) is one of the favorite and healthy vegetables that can be grown in our gardens. In winter, this root vegetable is suitable for elderly people in dietary nutrition for atherosclerosis and to maintain vitality, and for young people - for colds, and for mature people, to compensate for the lack of vitamins and minerals in the body.

Let's grow greens indoors

Vegetable garden on the windowsill

If you love growing house plants and are also practical, then you will love the idea of growing herbs and vegetables at home. A small garden near the window and on the windowsill will decorate your apartment no worse than house flowers. There will be few worries if you start forcing spicy and salad greens from onions, roots and rhizomes, etc.

Today, every gardener plants crops in his garden that begin to grow immediately after the snow melts. It’s good when the land plot is large and you can put everything you have in mind on it. But what to do when the garden is small and you need to accommodate several crops at once?

In this case, the need for neighboring plantings arises. For example, garlic is a vegetable crop that can be planted in both autumn and spring. But as you know, it is impossible to grow it in one place for a long time. In this case, every gardener should know what can be planted after garlic and after which plants it gives a high yield. Gardeners often plant onions and garlic after each other. But is this always possible? Let's consider this issue further.

Compatible or not?

Once you have harvested garlic, you should not plant it in the same place again in the fall. It is best to plant other vegetable plants. You can also do it a little differently: at the end of summer, sow green manure and leave them to winter. Next year, plant green manure again, but plant garlic in the fall. This method is worth using because it cannot be replanted in 3-4 years due to lack of space in the garden.

Gardeners often plant onions and garlic next to each other, believing that these crops are similar to each other. There are different opinions on this. Some gardeners are categorically against such a neighborhood, while others, on the contrary, plant them nearby and at the same time get an excellent harvest.

Onions and garlic are vegetable crops that belong to the Liliaceae family. Since they are varieties of the same family, they have common ailments.

Thus, one plant is not able to protect another. In addition, onions and garlic should be grown in an area where there is a lot of light. So for this you have to plant them in separate beds. But this video will help you understand how to grow leek seedlings at home.

In the video - is it possible to plant onions next to garlic:

But when there is not enough space in the garden for such an arrangement of crops, gardeners still plant them together. If you care for them properly, water them in a timely manner, loosen them and apply fertilizer, then it is quite possible to get a high yield of both onions and garlic. As you know, these plants are fast-ripening, and their planting time is almost the same. It will also be interesting to learn about how onions are grown in a greenhouse in winter.

Is it possible to plant garlic after onions?

Garlic is an unpretentious vegetable crop that is a perennial. So you can get a high yield only if you choose the right place for planting. For onions, it is preferable to choose fertile soil, while some of the nutritional components should be concentrated in the upper part, because the root system develops shallowly. So crops with long roots will be excellent predecessors.

On the video - what can be planted with garlic and onions:

But garlic will grow well if you plant tomatoes, beets, cucumbers, carrots and strawberries next to it. It is the latter plant that is perfect as a neighbor for garlic. But garlic will have a detrimental effect on cabbage, peas and beans.

This information will help you understand the timing of planting spring garlic in the middle zone.

It will also be interesting to learn about how to grow winter garlic.

But what can be planted after garlic, and how to plant it, is described in great detail here in the article.

Is it possible to plant onions after garlic?

It would seem that onions and garlic are two related crops, so if they are planted one after the other, you can get good results in the form of a high yield. But in practice this is not entirely true, since these two vegetables have common “enemies”. In addition, during its growth it will take away similar nutritional components, which are also necessary for onions.

For onions, early varieties of cabbage, cucumbers and radishes will be excellent predecessors. If you plant onions after such plants, it is quite possible to get a high yield.

Of course, there are exceptions. If you have poor soil on your site, then rest assured that you will not be able to get a good harvest from onions. There is only one thing left to do - to grow it for greens. In this case, you can place it on the bed where the garlic was previously located.

Naturally, at the end of summer you can’t count on large heads of the crop, but it’s quite possible to have fresh greens throughout the season. But then you will still need to carry out a number of preventive measures to prevent onions from becoming infected, otherwise they will not be able to please you even with green leaves. But after what crops you can plant onions, and how to choose the right varieties of vegetables, this information will help you understand.

The video shows the features of planting garlic:

These are two vegetable crops that no garden today can do without. And this is not surprising, because it is absolutely easy to care for them in order to get high results. In addition, these vegetables are incredibly beneficial for the human body. Thanks to this, it is possible to increase the body’s defenses to resist various diseases. But it is not recommended to plant them together. Also, you should not plant them in the same bed one after another. They absorb the same nutrients and have common pests.

Combined plantings are not such an easy task. There are criteria such as the age of the plants, their number in the garden bed, and the distance between plants. With the right approach, you can figure out for yourself what is better or worse for certain species.

There are plant species that get along well with each other and certain species that slow down the growth of their neighbors and grow slowly themselves. In general, some plants love each other and some hate each other.

Combined plantings can be quite complicated and often even too complicated, but with experience you will begin to understand better and the process will go faster. The main thing is not to get carried away with excessive planning, otherwise the pleasure of planting will wane.

Nobody says that you can’t grow certain plants in the same garden, the main thing is not to plant them next to each other. Below is a table with which you can see which plants get along well with each other and which do not.

Combined plantings are not such an easy task.

Compatibility of plants in the garden: table. What to plant with what

There are criteria such as the age of the plants, their number in the garden bed, and the distance between plants. With the right approach, you can figure out for yourself what is better or worse for certain species.

Vegetable compatibility table.

Plant	Good neighbors	Bad neighbors
Asparagus	Tomatoes, parsley, basil
Beans	Potatoes, carrots, cucumbers, cauliflower, cabbage, eggplant	Onion, garlic, gladius, chives
Bush beans	Potatoes, cucumbers, corn, strawberries, celery	Onion
Climbing beans	Corn, sunflower	Onions, beets, kohlrabi, cabbage
Beet	Onion, kohlrabi	Beans
Cabbage (cauliflower, broccoli, kale, kohlrabi)	Aromatic plants, potatoes, celery, dill, hyssop, chamomile, sage, mint, rosemary, beets, onions	Strawberries, tomatoes, climbing beans
Carrot	Peas, lettuce, chives, leeks, onions, rosemary, sage, tomatoes	Dill
Celery	Leeks, tomatoes, bush beans, cauliflower, cabbage
Chives	Carrots, tomatoes	Peas, beans
Corn	Potatoes, peas, beans, cucumbers, melon, pumpkin, zucchini	Tomatoes
cucumbers	Beans, corn, peas, radishes, sunflowers, lettuce	Potatoes, aromatic herbs
Eggplant	Beans, potatoes, spinach
Leek	Onions, celery, carrots
Salad	Carrots and radishes, strawberries, cucumbers, onions
Melon	Corn, nasturtiums, radishes
Onion	Beets, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, leeks, chamomile, peppers	Peas, beans
Parsley	Tomatoes, asparagus
Peas	Carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn	Onions, garlic, gladiolus, potatoes, chives
Potato	Beans, corn, cabbage, marigolds, eggplants (as bait for the Colorado potato beetle)	Pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers, sunflowers, tomatoes, raspberries
Pepper	Onion
Pumpkin	Corn
Radish	Peas, nasturtiums, lettuce, melon, cucumbers	Hyssop
Spinach	Strawberry, eggplant
Zucchini	Nasturtiums, corn	Potato
Strawberry	Bush beans, spinach, borage, lettuce (on the border), onion	Cabbage
Sunflower	cucumbers	Potato
Tomato	Chives, onions, parsley, asparagus, marigolds, nasturtiums, carrots	Corn, kohlrabi
Turnip	peas

List of herbs, their properties and plants that go well with them.

Plant	Properties
Basil	Companion plant for tomatoes; actively dislikes rue; improves growth and taste; repels flies and mosquitoes
Borage	Companion plant for tomatoes, zucchini and strawberries; repels tomato worms; improves growth and taste
Caraway	Plant everywhere; loosens the soil
Cat mint	Plant along the edge; repels earthen fleas
Chamomile	Companion plant for cabbage and onions; improves growth and taste
Chives	Companion plant for carrots; improves growth and taste
Dill	Companion plant for cabbage; does not like carrots, promotes the growth and health of cabbage
Fennel	It is better not to plant in the garden, most plants do not like being next to it
Linen	Companion plant for carrots and potatoes; repels potato beetles; improves growth and taste
Garlic	Plant next to roses and raspberries, repels beetles, promotes growth and health
Horseradish	Plant in the corners of a potato field to repel potato bugs
Hyssop	Repels cabbages; companion plant for cabbage and grapes. Do not plant next to radishes
Melissa	It is better to plant throughout the garden
Lovage	Promotes plant growth, improves taste
Marigold	Excellent at repelling pests, can be planted throughout the garden
Marjoram	Improves taste, can be planted anywhere
Mint	Companion plant for tomatoes and cabbage; Promotes healthy growth, improves taste, repels cabbages
Nasturtium	Companion plant for radishes, cabbage and pumpkin; plant under fruit trees; improves growth and taste
Peppermint	Planting among cabbage repels pest butterflies
Petunia	Protects beans
Calendula	Companion plant for tomatoes, but can be planted throughout the garden, repels pests
Purslane	Repels pests
Rosemary	Companion plant for cabbage, beans, carrots and sage; repels pests
Sage	Plant with rosemary, cabbage and carrots, keep away from cucumbers; scares away cabbages
Sagebrush	Plant throughout the garden as a companion plant for cabbage; improves taste and promotes growth; scares away cabbages
Garden savory	Plant with beans and onions; improves taste and promotes growth
Tansy	Plant under fruit trees; companion plant for roses and raspberries; repels flying insects and ants
Tarragon	Useful anywhere in the garden
Thyme	Repels cabbage caterpillars; plant throughout the garden
Valerian	Useful anywhere in the garden
Yarrow	Plant along borders, paths and next to aromatic herbs; increases essential oil production

What to plant in the garden next to garlic: friendly neighbors

No matter how dozens of articles describe how “it is important to choose a planting site so that it is like this and like this,” it is equally important to properly arrange the neighborhood in the garden beds. After all, plants do not grow in a vacuum. At the same time, you cannot blindly plant different crops side by side, as this can lead to disastrous consequences. We will talk about who gets along well in a garden with garlic and who is best kept away in this article.

After which you can plant garlic

Agree, we rarely think about how to properly alternate plants in the beds. Basically, the thought process in this area is limited to a simple rule - do not plant garlic after garlic. However, minimal research opens up scope for combinations and optimal plant rotation. This will save on fertilizers and significantly speed up vegetation processes in crops.

It is best to plant garlic after grains and melons (pumpkins, zucchini, squash), forage grasses, beans, and peas. During their growth, these plants saturate the soil with micronutrients, do not deplete it, but, on the contrary, have a positive effect on the mineral composition. This has a good effect on crop growth, allowing you to grow larger and healthier bulbs.

You can also plant the plant in the garden after early ripening potatoes. During the short growing season, potatoes do not have time to significantly deplete the soil, so you can take their place with garlic.

"Enemies" of garlic

Among the enemies of garlic, after which the crop should not be planted, are: onions, late-ripening potatoes, turnips, carrots, beets, cabbage.

Peas and beans should not be planted next to garlic beds, as they actively remove all nutrients from the soil and do not allow the plant to develop normally. Among the unfavorable neighbors were also onions, cucumbers, and tomatoes.

Is it possible to plant onions and garlic side by side in the same bed?

Eggplant does not perform well if planted next to garlic.

"Friends" of garlic

However, do not be upset that garlic does not get along well with some crops. After all, he is friendly with so many plants! For example, tomatoes, beets, and strawberries would be ideal neighbors for it. This crop repels aphids well in the garden, so it makes sense to plant it between rows of vegetables and flowers, which suffer greatly from aphids. In addition, the garlic aroma repels the Colorado potato beetle, so you can plant it next to potatoes, which suffer greatly from the attacks of this insect.

You can plant it next to flowers such as carnations, gladioli, roses, asters as a preventive measure against black spot, downy mildew, and gray rot. But garlic itself saves calendula and chicory from onion flies.

It is good to plant the crop in neighboring horseradish beds, as they mutually increase the concentration of vitamin C in the leaves.

Probably the best neighbor imaginable for garlic is strawberries. The vegetable, through the produced phytoncides, protects strawberries from diseases caused by fungi, as well as from underground pests. Strawberries, in turn, contribute to the formation of a large bulb with an abundance of cloves. Among other things, garlic repels slugs and mole crickets, which allows you to grow a healthy strawberry crop.

Garlic exhibits its antiseptic properties no worse when paired with carrots. The phytoncides it secretes protect carrots from carrot flies. In turn, the enzymes secreted by carrots into the soil help the neighbor maintain the greenness of the above-ground parts longer and contribute to the ripening of a larger bulb. In addition, space in the beds is noticeably saved, and the shelf life of the fruit increases.

How to plant

It is important to know how to plant friendly plants correctly so that the positive effect manifests itself in full force. To do this, you can use different planting patterns: in a checkerboard pattern, alternating plants in the same bed, planting them between rows, etc.

Method No. 1: linear meter.

Any plant can be planted this way. Seedlings are located as spots on 1 square meter of land.

Method number 2: chessboard.

As in the first case, you can focus on zones of 1 square meter, alternating seedlings of several plants that are friendly to each other.

Method number 3: row spacing.

You can plant garlic in spaces between beds of other plants. In this case, it is especially good to alternate it with strawberries.

Let's look at effective cohabitation using the example of strawberries.

In the fall, when the beds are disinfected, cleaned and dug up with fertilizer, plant winter garlic on the beds with strawberries, and then carefully mulch both crops. You can use rotted organic fertilizer with ash, hay, tops, and sawdust.

In early spring, when the snow melts and strawberries and garlic begin to grow, the mulch is removed and the beds are watered with a solution of potassium permanganate, followed by fluffing up the soil. Just be careful not to damage the sprouted garlic cloves and roots!

Garlic and strawberries have the same care needs, so caring for them is easier due to their close proximity.

When the garlic shoots form, break them off as well as the strawberry tendrils so that both plants can concentrate on developing a healthy, large fruit.

Let's consider another neighborhood option. Like winter garlic, carrots are sown for the winter in pre-fertilized soil. You will have to add one and a half to two times more fertilizer to give a good start to carrot growth. At the end of September, both crops are sown, mulched and well watered. It is best to alternate rows, leaving 15-20 centimeters of free space between them. Leave a space between the cloves of approximately 10-13 centimeters. This is necessary so that in spring and summer, when the above-ground part of the carrot begins to grow, the garlic does not languish in the shade.

As soon as the snow melts from the beds, they should be covered with polyethylene to stimulate greening and active fruit growth. Plants live under film cover until May. It is in May that the carrot fly looks for a place to lay eggs. By removing the film from the beds, you stimulate the spread of phytoncides, which repel it, which has a positive effect on the growth and development of carrots.

Despite the fact that winter varieties usually ripen in mid-July, proximity to carrots extends their life. Therefore, both crops are harvested at the same time. This growing method has a positive effect on the shelf life of both garlic and carrots.

Remember that even the most mutually friendly plants require annual crop rotation. It is not enough to simply swap their beds; the location must be radically changed.

In addition to micronutrients, each crop releases a certain amount of toxins into the soil and attracts harmful insects and fungal microflora. All this can easily lead to sad consequences, the result of which will be the loss of crops and seed material.

Keep records that are updated every year to ensure that the same crops are not grown in the same location.

Video “Planting winter garlic over strawberries”

This video will tell you about garlic in strawberry beds, why it is needed there, and how to plant it correctly.

This is interesting:

Planting carrots in spring

Carrots are a biennial herbaceous plant belonging to the Apiaceae family. In the first year it forms leaves and roots. Actually, this is where its life cycle in the beds ends. The vegetable is distinguished by its bright color and the presence of a large amount of vitamins. Carrots are considered a dietary product; they are often included in the menu of those losing weight or recovering from a number of diseases. The root vegetable is especially valuable because of the carotene with which it is saturated.

Carrot harvest depends on the conditions in which the vegetable is grown, as well as what variety is chosen. There are several thousand of them (varieties). We mainly cultivate several dozen proven and popular subspecies. The variety of a carrot determines its length, the shape of the root crop (cone-shaped, cylindrical, ovoid), resistance to blooming, taste, the presence of a core, even the shade of color and, of course, the speed of ripening.

Planting carrots in spring guarantees timely ripening of the crop. In addition, this is the best time to start growing this vegetable crop. Carrots are also sown in early summer to produce a fall harvest for storage or sale. The third method of planting carrots is winter sowing. This method makes it possible to obtain early carrots for the first vitamin salads. To be able to eat vegetables all season long, it is recommended to combine sowing methods and times.

How to plant carrots

Planting carrots in the spring begins with preparing the bed. Culture does not like fresh organic matter. As a representative of the Umbelliferae, carrots do not develop well in soil where parsnips, parsley, celery or caraway grew in the previous season (see plant compatibility). But he is fine with cucumbers, tomatoes, and cabbage.

Carrots grow in depth. This fact is obvious, but it is also often ignored. When encountering an obstacle, the main root begins to deviate to the side or develop additional parts. The end result is ugly carrots. To remove the first reason why the root crop may be bent, it is advisable to dig the soil deeply. Another option is to make a raised bed or a high bed with a depth of at least 40 cm.

Carrots prefer light, loose soil. Clay soil can be “lightened” with sand or compost, which is added a year before planting the crop. A distance of 35-40 cm is maintained between the rows. Carrots react normally to the immediate proximity of onions. Before planting carrots, rows-furrows with a small depression, up to 2 cm, are formed in the garden bed. The seeds must be taken fresh. Carrots lose their viability in the third year. An indicator of freshness can be the carrot smell, or rather its presence.

It is advisable to soak the seeds before sowing. Clean water is suitable for the procedure, in which the seed is immersed for a day. Slightly sprouted seeds are then slightly dried and mixed with sand for better flowability and more uniform distribution in the row. You can make homemade ribbons from thin, quick-soaking (for example, toilet) paper, onto which seeds are applied at regular intervals. The method avoids the first thinning and further facilitates the planting procedure itself. The third option is to purchase seeds in already prepared tapes.

Carrots are planted in the spring at the end of April-May, when the ground has already thawed and warmed up. To prevent the consequences of frost, crops are covered with spunbond or transparent film. Typically, carrots take 15 to 21 days to germinate. The covering material is removed after germination.

How to protect the emerging carrot crop

The culture is responsive to watering, loves water, but reacts poorly to its excess. Watering carrots It is necessary in the absence of rain, quite abundantly. Untimely supply of water can lead to root vegetables cracking or, conversely, becoming too soft and quickly rotting during storage. To ensure normal root development, it is recommended to water carrots several times a season, completing the procedure two to three weeks before harvest.

What to plant next to garlic

For the same reason, you should not dig up root crops immediately after rain. It is better to let them dry and release excess moisture to the ground.

Another reason why the carrot harvest turns out crooked is the formation of a crust on the surface of the beds, which interferes with the normal functioning of the plants. Plantings need to be loosened and weeded. Weeds can choke carrots at the seedling stage and then greatly affect their appearance, preventing the roots from developing correctly.

Carrots also need to be thinned. Too close proximity leads to distortion of root crops. Thinning is carried out in two stages. First, they deal with the density of seedlings when the seedlings reach the stage of 2 true leaves. Then the plantings are thinned out when the thickness of the root crops reaches 1 cm.

Both weeding and thinning of carrots must be done carefully to minimize damage to the small lateral roots. Otherwise, the plant may develop many additional lateral roots or bend the main root. When carrying out procedures, it is recommended to slightly compact the soil next to the remaining stems.

Folk secrets of growing carrots

The plant does not tolerate heat well; growth slows down at high temperatures. But it is more tolerant of the amount of solar energy. Carrots grow poorly only in full shade; they tolerate light shade well.

The taste of carrots is affected by whether its root is completely in the ground. Exposing it too much guarantees bitterness. To prevent the root crop from turning green, you can lightly hill it.

To prevent the carrot harvest from being affected by the carrot fly, the plantings are sprayed with an infusion of onion peels, garlic or celandine, treated with a solution of hot pepper, sprinkled with peat or dusted with mustard powder. When thinning, the pulled carrots are immediately removed from the garden bed, since their strong aroma very quickly attracts insects. For the same reason, the soil is compacted in the vacant spaces in the garden bed.

Curling leaves may be a signal that the plant needs to be fertilized with urea.

Carrots are harvested in the fall in dry weather. First they dig in, then pull out the root crops and leave them on the ground to air for a couple of hours. The green leaves can be trimmed and dried for tea. The remaining leaves are cut off almost at the base.

Planting carrots and onions in the same bed

This is the case when two crops successfully complement each other, and their taste becomes better from such joint planting.

Is it possible to plant garlic and onions in the same bed?

In addition, they drive pests away from each other. From all sides it’s just a wonderful neighborhood.

The roots of the onion are much higher than the roots of the carrot, and therefore one plant in no way harms the other. In addition, this unusual planting adds originality to your garden.

To begin, prepare a bed 1-1.2 meters wide, add organic and mineral fertilizers to it. It is optimal to add approximately 250 g of double superphosphate, and from organic matter - a couple of buckets of chicken manure and five buckets of compost.

you can simply plant onions around the perimeter of the garden bed

Preparing carrot and onion seeds for planting

Onions and carrots are planted at the same time. Carrot seeds can be glued with starch paste onto thin paper cut into thin ribbons along the width of the bed. The seeds are glued at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other. Or you can sow not with ribbons, but with ordinary seeds, but it is advisable to first free the seeds from essential oils by holding them for 20 minutes in hot water, stirring. Then dry it and you can sow it in a way convenient for you. Before planting, onions are soaked in a humate solution for 2-3 hours.

Planting carrots and onions

We make a shallow furrow for planting onions. Sprinkle some wood ash at the bottom. We place the onions carefully in the furrows, without particularly pressing them into the soil.

10-15 cm from the onion row, place a strip with glued carrot seeds in the groove to a depth of 2 cm and carefully sprinkle with earth. So we alternate and fill the entire bed. Now we need covering material; we need to cover the planting for two weeks.

The onion, of course, will begin to grow first. It needs to be fed when the feather reaches a length of 8-10 cm. To 10 liters of water you need to add one tablespoon of urea, ash, double superphosphate extract and kerosene. It is advisable to carry out this feeding again after two weeks.

Carrots begin to grow a little later, but intensively. Root vegetables grow actively, acquiring a wonderful taste. The onion harvest is harvested in mid-August, and a little later you can start harvesting carrots.

Growing carrots and onions in the same bed, video

You can grow a good crop of carrots in different ways: by sowing them in spring or late autumn, in open ground or in a greenhouse, watering them from a watering can or using a special system. The algorithm of actions for each method is different, but you can get a harvest in any case if you follow simple agronomic rules. In the article we will look at the optimal scheme for planting carrots for open ground, greenhouses, when planted together with onions and radishes, and with drip irrigation.

How to grow carrots in infographics

For basic information about growing carrots in your garden, see our infographic below.

How to plant carrots in open ground?

It all depends on when sowing is planned: in spring or before winter. Each method has its own differences. These include the timing of sowing, methods of preparing the bed, and the purpose of the resulting harvest. In one case, they wait for the soil to warm up to a temperature of at least 10 degrees, in the other, on the contrary, for it to cool down.

Tip #1: Use both of these methods on your site. This will allow you to get fresh fruits all season long, as well as prepare the harvest for storage.

Scheme for planting carrots in spring: basic parameters

Characteristic features of this method:

site preparation in the fall;
soaking seeds;
hardening;
drying.

More often the landing scheme here is as follows:

The planting pattern can be twice as wide. Then the rows are placed as shown in the figure

When sowing in spring, wait until the soil warms up to at least 10 degrees. Otherwise, despite the fact that carrots are considered a cold-resistant crop, the seeds will weaken in the ground even before germination, and weeds that sprout earlier will completely drown out the seedlings. To reduce the time it takes for seedlings to emerge, be sure to soak the seeds (you can even germinate them) and harden them in the refrigerator to prepare them for possible temperature changes.

In the spring, early, mid-season and late varieties are sown, which are intended for use in fresh or processed form or for winter storage. Carrots are demanding of moisture. It is more correct to carry out regular deep watering, preventing the soil from drying out.

With frequent but superficial watering, carrots develop lateral roots in search of missing moisture. As a result, “hairy” fruits grow. Such carrots are also obtained in another case: if a variety with a short growing season is harvested after a month before the ripening period begins. Then the fruit will also be woody and tasteless

Sowing carrots before winter

Sowing carrots in late autumn has its advantages:

earlier fruit ripening - no later than June;
carrot resistance to many diseases;
obtaining larger fruits;
saving time on soaking and drying seeds;
getting rid of sowing worries in the spring, when there is already plenty of work in the garden.

But this method also has disadvantages: such fruits cannot be stored, and the consumption of seeds for sowing is about a third more.

The soil preparation scheme in this case is different: the beds are laid out after harvesting the predecessor crops. The soil, freed from the previous crop and weeds, is dug up, breaking up large clods and removing roots and stones, and if necessary, complex fertilizers are applied. The bed is laid out according to the same pattern as for spring sowing. The difference is that the rows in it are formed immediately. Cover the bed with film and wait until the sowing time. (Start - mid-November).

Tip #2: in this case, choose a site for sowing without a slope, otherwise in the spring, when the snow melts, some of the seeds will inevitably be washed away.

Features of the scheme for planting carrots before winter

Let's look at the features of planting carrots before winter.

The depth of the furrows should be greater than for spring sowing (at least 5-6 cm), otherwise the seeds will freeze out when the temperature drops significantly.
After sowing, the furrows are sprinkled on top only with dry and warm soil, which is specially kept indoors for this purpose.
After sowing, the furrows are sprinkled with sand - this will help to find them in the spring before germination.
The bed is covered with a layer of branches for insulation.
In winter, make sure that the bed is constantly under a layer of snow.

Pre-winter sowing provides another benefit.

By sowing crops that ripen earlier, such as lettuce or radishes, between the rows of carrots in the spring, you get two harvests from one bed. And the crops in the garden do not interfere with each other

Sowing depending on neighbors

Beginning gardeners who grow carrots in compliance with agricultural technology are perplexed: why, after following all the required agricultural practices and choosing the right predecessor, they end up with small carrots. Whereas, next door to it, other vegetables grew large. The fact is that carrots are sensitive not only to their predecessors, but also to their current neighbors in the garden. She spends a lot of energy fighting an unwanted neighbor, which inhibits her development. But favorable neighbors help fight pests and diseases, and enrich the soil with substances that carrots need for growth and development.

These root crops were definitely not adjacent to each other in the garden. Otherwise, gardeners will harvest “super-beets” and “micro-carrots”: carrots cannot stand such proximity

In addition to beets and carrots, proximity to horseradish, anise, parsley and other aromatic herbs is contraindicated. But the best neighbors in a plot with carrots are peas, spinach and onions.

Planting carrots with onions

The best neighbor of carrots in the garden is onions, and for good reason. With such a mutually beneficial symbiosis, onions repel the carrot fly, and carrots repel the onion fly.

Onions repel aphids and even mole crickets on carrots, and also protect against white and gray rot. The yields on joint beds are better than on separate ones.

Schemes for planting carrots and onions in joint beds are different. This is planting onions along the perimeter of a carrot ridge, alternating rows of carrots and onions (the method is good for separating different varieties of carrots), planting onions between carrot rows (for compacted plantings). And finally, planting onion sets using the light method - in the same row with carrots. With this method, onions are planted evenly along the length of the carrot rows. The onions will sprout earlier and indicate the position of the rows with carrots - to simplify weeding

Sowing carrots in a greenhouse

Carrots require long daylight hours, so they are not grown indoors as often. But this method has its advantages, so if you have a greenhouse, you shouldn’t give it up. Greenhouse carrots are not intended for storage. But for the vitamin table, it is grown successfully in closed ground. In this case, you can get two harvests: one - when sowing in February - early March (harvest period - May), the second - in August (harvest period - December-January). Preference is given to early or mid-early varieties that produce medium-sized fruits; they feel better in the greenhouse.

The agricultural scheme for growing carrots here is similar to the scheme for open ground. This applies to predecessors, soil preparation, size of beds, amount of moisture and fertilizer, etc. the only significant difference is the ventilation of the greenhouse.

Sowing carrots under a drip irrigation system

The construction of a drip irrigation system on the site provides significant benefits. This saves water and time: instead of watering, owners can do other things while the system is watering. Automatic systems can also be configured to water when the owners are not on site. Then there will be fewer visits to the dacha, and the summer residents themselves will not be afraid that watering is carried out in the heat, and the leaves of the plants may get burned. With drip irrigation, weeds can be weeded or harvested in neighboring beds without any problems - no puddles or streaks of water form.

With drip irrigation, moisture gets only under the root, and the leaves and stems remain dry. This means that fungicides or insecticides will not be washed off, the protective properties from such treatments will last longer, and the gardener will not have to prioritize between watering and treatments. Drip irrigation can be used both in open and protected ground. But the most important advantage is the ability to apply soluble fertilizers in liquid form. By keeping their dosage compatible (some of them, when interacting, can burn plants and clog the drip system), they increase the effectiveness of fertilizing and reduce their quantity.

Recommendations for carrot planting scheme depending on ripening time

Before winter, mainly early ripening varieties are sown.

Early and mid-ripening varieties such as Amsterdam Forcing-3, Minikor, Mokush, Vitaminnaya-6, F1-Zabava, Losinoostrovskaya-13, Boltex are suitable for greenhouses.

Both early varieties (in the last ten days of April), mid-season (first ten days of May) and late-ripening (mid-late June) are sown in open ground.

Late varieties, when sown in summer, have time to ripen before October, gain sweetness and taste for storage for long winter storage.

At the same time, late varieties have their advantages. You don’t have to rush to plant them, doing more important garden chores. In addition, when sowing in summer, carrot pests are almost gone. The only inconvenience is that you will have to water the garden bed more often.

Answers to frequently asked questions from gardeners

Question #1: After harvesting the carrots, which were planted before winter, the land remains empty in June. How to use it before winter?

Answer: after it, sow crops that will still have time to ripen before the end of the season, and for which carrots are a good predecessor. For example:

You can also plant garlic for the winter.

Answer: during spring digging, the structure of the soil is disrupted and its natural moisture decreases, which is important for carrots. If you dig in the fall, the soil structure has time to “settle” by spring, and much more moisture accumulates due to the accumulation of snow between the clods of earth obtained during digging.

Question #3: I sowed carrots in the cold autumn, but did not get a “winter” harvest: the plants that sprouted at the end of autumn were covered with snow, and in the spring, after it melted, I found dead seedlings. Why?

Answer: because you need to sow at such a time that the seeds never have time to germinate! Tender sprouts are very vulnerable to severe frosts!

Question #4: I sown carrots in the fall. I waited until the frost set the soil and sowed the soaked and dried seeds. He sprinkled it with warm soil and covered the bed with straw. It seems like I did everything right, but the carrots didn’t sprout...

Answer: You did everything wrong! When sowing before winter, do not soak the seeds under any circumstances: being wet, they simply freeze and die, even at a depth of 5-6 cm.

Question #5: To get the harvest faster, I sowed carrots early in the spring - in early April. And instead of a root crop, I got a harvest... of inflorescences... But carrots are a biennial plant! What's wrong with carrots?

Answer: it’s the same with carrots. Under normal conditions, it blooms in the second year of the growing season, when root crops are planted in the ground. Here it most likely fell under late spring frosts.

Garlic: cultivation, care, dishes with garlic, treatment with garlic

They did not destroy it, but sharply shifted the natural vegetative process of the plant. The carrots “decided” that it was the second year of its life and it was time to bloom.

Common mistakes when growing carrots

Don't apply too much nitrogen. Carrots are demanding of it, but moderation is needed in everything. If carrots are overfed with nitrogen, they will accumulate nitrates, lose their taste and will not be stored well.
To get healthy shoots when sowing in spring, in addition to soaking the seeds, be sure to water the soil before sowing and compact it after. Then the seeds will lie evenly and the necessary nutrition will be equally available to them.

The result of sowing without watering and compaction. Seeds that rolled under clods of earth, or those that did not fit tightly to the soil, experienced a moisture deficiency. They sprouted, but the tips of the roots dried out due to lack of moisture: “two-horned” carrots grew)

Do not water the carrots until they sprout! This will lead to the formation of a soil crust that is difficult for sprouts to break through. Sow in moist soil, but plant in dry soil.

Carrots are a very useful vegetable in the kitchen! All year round we add it to hot dishes, eat it fresh and mix it into salads. The cost of carrots in the store is low, so maybe it would be more convenient to just buy root vegetables as needed, without spending time growing them? However, closer to spring, store-bought carrots begin to rise in price significantly, their quality noticeably deteriorates, and those who did not stock up on time have a hard time.

That is why every garden must have a bed for this beloved vegetable crop, and experienced gardeners exchange experience with beginners on how to plant carrots correctly in order to obtain a rich harvest of healthy root crops.

If you have never had to grow vegetables before, and you have no idea how to plant carrots, or you just can’t grow normal, tasty root vegetables, our article will definitely be useful to you. We will talk about how to plant carrots with seeds, how to care for young seedlings, and how to protect the garden bed from...

Video about preparing carrot seeds for planting

Depending on what variety of seeds you bought, the timing of their sowing will vary. So, in the twentieth of April, you can start sowing early-ripening varieties, from April 25 to approximately May 5, mid-ripening varieties begin to be sown, and carrots intended for winter storage are planted on June 10-15.

For a carrot bed, it is recommended to choose an area where there are not too many weeds, since the weeds will sprout before the carrots and prevent them from growing. The soil should be loose, preferably containing sand. In heavy soil, root crops can turn out curved, clumsy, and small. If there is a constantly high level of moisture in the soil, the root crops will rot, and in dry soil the carrots will turn out “wooden”.

Also consider after what crops you will sow carrots. It is best to choose those areas where cucumbers, tomatoes, garlic, onions, cabbage, potatoes or greens (except lettuce) grew last year. It is better not to plant carrots after parsley, as pests that are dangerous for carrots may remain in the soil.

In heavy soil, root crops can turn out curved, clumsy, and small

Dig up the soil in the garden bed in the fall, and in the spring, go over the ground with a flat cutter. There is no need to dig additionally - settled soil is preferable for carrots. The most important thing is not to apply fresh manure to the soil, since carrots do not tolerate its acidity. The bed can be fertilized with mineral fertilizers a couple of weeks before planting carrots.

Carrots are planted with seeds directly into open ground. Prepare the seeds in advance:

soak for two hours in clean water at room temperature;
scatter the seeds on a damp cloth and cover with another damp cloth on top;
keep the seeds in the room, stirring them gently from time to time;
soak the fabric when dry;
When the seeds are completely swollen and begin to hatch, move them to the refrigerator for 10 days for hardening.

Simple and accessible information on how to plant carrots correctly

It is enough to maintain a distance between seeds of 1.5 cm

Sprinkle the bed reserved for carrots with ash, cut each groove in it up to 2.5 cm deep, leaving row spacing of 20 cm, and 12 cm along the edges of the bed. Sprinkle the grooves with water and sow the prepared seeds. It is enough to maintain a distance of 1.5 cm between seeds. Level the furrows with earth. It is recommended to stretch the film on top of the bed at a height of 15 cm so that seedlings appear faster, and when greenery appears, the film can be removed.

Experienced gardeners, in an effort to simplify the process of sowing seeds, sometimes come up with quite unusual methods how to plant carrots: some people mix the seed material with sand before sowing, while others first stick one seed at a time onto thin paper strips (you can use toilet paper). Pick up a carrot seed with a toothpick, dip it in paper glue or paste and apply it every 5 cm on the paper. Such paper strips are laid in furrows and sprinkled with soil on top.

Video about growing carrots

Plant radishes along the edges of the bed; they will sprout quite quickly, marking the carrot rows, and you can start loosening the rows earlier (carrots really like frequent loosening). It is also very useful to plant onions in a carrot bed, since its smell drives away carrot flies - the most dangerous pest of carrots.

At first, the garden bed should be watered abundantly, and when the first shoots turn green, reduce watering to twice a week. Although not all of the seed material will sprout, the seedlings will still need to be thinned out after the formation of the first leaf, leaving the strongest plants.

Good afternoon, dear readers!

It is impossible to imagine preparing many dishes without carrots. Of course, every summer resident will definitely allocate a bed for this crop in order to get a carrot harvest on his own. In order for cultivation to be successful, it is necessary to take into account the agricultural technology of this vegetable and its requirements for soil composition. Only in this case will the root vegetables be large and rich in taste.

And be sure to take into account the rules of crop rotation.

Carrots are among those crops that are demanding on crop rotation rules. The root crop can be returned to its original place no earlier than after 4 years. Therefore, for planting next year you will have to find another site. And in a carrot bed, not only some types of vegetables, but also berry crops will grow successfully. If you do not follow this principle, you can forget about a good carrot harvest.

From time to time, the residents in the beds need to be changed; the more often this is done, the better for the vegetables themselves and for the soil. Pests may also like the new crop. With such agricultural technology, the risk of diseases is reduced. Therefore, you should not plant related root crops on a carrot bed, for example, beets, which have common diseases with it.

An exception to this rule would be radishes, because they ripen very quickly and you simply won’t have time to get sick. But learn that this crop needs a sunny place for planting.
A suitable successor for carrots would be regular potatoes and sweet potatoes. Both vegetables will give a good harvest in loose, humus-rich soil.
It is also permissible to grow other nightshade crops - tomatoes, peppers, eggplants.
This soil is quite suitable for growing physalis.
After carrots, you can plant artichokes, but they definitely need good drainage.
Onions and garlic are good because they disinfect the soil. They can be planted in the garden after the carrots.
Strawberries and garden strawberries will also give a good harvest in a carrot bed.

On a note! To obtain a good harvest, of course, it is worth using other agricultural techniques: loosening, hilling, weeding, pest control. Proper crop rotation alone is not enough.

Precursor plants play a big role when growing carrots. After all, the orange root crop is considered sensitive to the composition of the soil and the fertilizers added to it. For example, after applying manure, it is recommended to plant carrots only after 2 years. The following are considered successful predecessors for carrots:

potato;
tomatoes;
cucumbers (after 1-2 years);
salad;

Alternation with these crops helps to preserve the structure of the soil and sufficient content of essential nutrients.

Crop rotation table

Both carrots and beets are root vegetables. They have the same principle of obtaining nutrients from the soil. Therefore, it is better to select more favorable predecessors for one and the other culture. But in cramped conditions, sometimes you have to plant beets after carrots and vice versa. In this case, you need to properly prepare the bed. After harvesting, the soil is dug up with green manure plants, for example, white mustard.

Since carrots and beets are harvested quite late, mustard can be sown in advance in another place. When the bed is cleared after root crops, the green mustard shoots are crushed and buried in the ground. Then the soil is spilled with EM preparations and covered with plastic film. Over the winter, plant residues in the soil are rotted, and a loose, fertilized substrate is obtained, suitable for growing both carrots and beets.

The most unsuccessful predecessor for carrots is parsley. After growing this greenery, pathogenic bacteria accumulate in the soil, which can subsequently infect the root crops. If you plant carrots after parsley, the fruits will be small, crooked, and lacking in juiciness. The situation can be partially corrected using a solution of potassium permanganate, which will disinfect the soil. But if possible, it is worth choosing another predecessor.

Carrots are considered unpretentious and grow well after many crops. It is also not recommended to plant carrots after beans and after umbrella plants (anise, dill, coriander, caraway, fennel).

The same can be said about the carrots themselves. It can be returned to the garden, but not earlier than after 4 years. Since carrots are considered a moderately soil-depleting root crop, there is no strict ban on planting other crops after them.

Carrots cannot be called a capricious crop, but they do have certain requirements for the composition of the soil and the growing process. The most suitable soil for carrot beds is loose sandy loam or loamy soil. The soil should have a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Hard, nutrient-poor soil is absolutely not suitable. If you plant carrots in clay soil, the seedlings will be unfriendly due to the formation of a dense crust on the surface of the bed.

In any case, the soil is dug up deeply and loosened before planting - this increases the volume of the future harvest by an order of magnitude. If the soil on your site is not very suitable for carrots in terms of mechanical composition, planting in high beds will be the solution. Average soil nutrition is preferred. Both a lack and an excess of fertilizers are harmful for carrots.

Helpful advice! Never feed carrots with fresh manure, use only humus, otherwise your crops may die.

Excess organic matter in the soil attracts a pest - the carrot fly. To repel the pest, it is better to alternate planting carrots with planting onions and garlic. Excessive content of organic fertilizers also affects the quality of fruits. In this case, the carrots turn out to be curved and can form “horns.” The application of necessary additives and fertilizers depends on the initial composition of the soil.

Add to peat soil: fine sawdust, turf soil, humus or compost, coarse sand, rotted manure.
If the soil is sandy, sawdust, turf soil, humus and peat should be used as additives.
Sand, sawdust, and superphosphate should be added to the black soil.

It is recommended to dig up beds for carrots in the fall. If the soil is too acidic, dolomite flour or chalk is added at this stage. In the spring, on the eve of planting, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied. A few days before planting, the beds must again be dug to a depth of 25-27 cm.

To ensure that the soil warms up well, it is compacted, watered and covered with film.

Just before planting, the soil is loosened again and furrows are made at a distance of 20 cm. The furrows are watered with a solution of potassium permanganate. After this, the bed is ready for planting.

It is better to allocate sunny, unshaded places for planting carrots. It should be watered infrequently, but deeply, so that during the growth process the root crop does not bend in search of moisture, but grows evenly. Mulching with sawdust will help maintain moderate moisture in the soil. They will also increase the looseness of the soil, which will only benefit root crops.

The seedlings will need to be thinned out, leaving a distance of 5 cm between them, otherwise the carrots will turn out too small. Weaker seedlings need to be removed. If the soil in the garden bed is poor in fertilizers, additional fertilizing can be done with special fertilizers for root crops. It is enough to do this 1-2 times per season.

How to sow carrots correctly: video

Fortunately, information about proper crop rotation is now quite accessible, so everyone, even an inexperienced summer resident, can carry out agricultural work on their plot competently. These recommendations have been tested for decades, so they can be trusted. Do you want to get a good carrot harvest? Select the right predecessors for it. Then the harvest from one bed will provide you with juicy root vegetables for the whole winter.