Flowers. Beautiful roses! How to revive rose seedlings

It is very annoying when recently planted roses grow poorly, get sick and do not take root. let's consider possible reasons This is what we’ll figure out what to do. Let's correct the situation and make your bush lush and blooming profusely!

The right location is one of the main conditions for growing roses without problems. However, mistakes are often made.

Lighting

Roses are very light-loving plants (there are only a few exceptions). It is desirable that they get maximum amount sun, if possible all day. If this is not possible, then lighting in the morning is preferable. By the way, the rose’s need for light must be taken into account when making group compositions, for example, with coniferous trees- in this case, they should not obscure the rays of the flower when they grow.

Another nuance - the sun can lead to fading of flowers. Although for some varieties this is considered rather a positive effect (for example, when faded and young, still bright flowers form a beautiful gradation), this can be avoided by choosing a place where the rays will illuminate the plant only indirectly at midday.

Due to lack of light, roses will not develop normally: the stems will be excessively thin, the buds will be tiny and often false, not producing flowers, and the leaves will be colorless. It's dangerous too. That lack of light reduces immunity and resistance to diseases.

Temperature

The temperature of both the ground itself and the air and water for irrigation is very important. If the soil is too cold, the salts dissolve less well and the roots are less able to absorb the necessary microelements. As a result, the bush grows more slowly, and flowering occurs later. Drafts and winds from the north and northeast are dangerous, so it is advisable to protect the plant from them.

As for wintering, the resistance of each variety is individual. There are some that are very, for example, capable of withstanding down to -30 degrees, and there are also those that can die at zero degrees. However, sudden changes in temperature affect everyone equally badly, so in the off-season, when there is a threat of frost, it is better to provide protection to even hardy varieties.

The soil

Optimal soil should have a neutral acidity level (6–7 pH). This will allow the roots to quickly absorb nutrients and vitamins from the soil. The flower itself becomes more resistant to disease. But alkaline or acidified soil will convert the very substances necessary for the flower into another form that is useless for the flowers, which will negatively affect their health and growth.

Roses do not grow or grow very poorly under trees: they not only block the light, but also aggressively absorb water from the soil and useful material. This can also cause fungal diseases in roses.

Tamping during landing

Incorrect pruning

People who have recently grown roses often make mistakes in pruning, but the abundance of flowering, lifespan, immunity to diseases and cold depend on it. Improper pruning can completely destroy the plant.

That the bush grew healthy, it is advisable to prune in spring and autumn, when there are no nutrients. In spring, dried or frozen stems are removed. In autumn, the stems are pruned to about 40 cm above the soil level. This does not apply to climbing roses - they are not pruned.

For abundant flowering In addition, it is important to remove fading flowers from the bush in time, since they leave fruits - and for the plant this serves as a sign that this year “” is completed, accordingly, they may not produce new flowers, directing forces and nutrients into the formation of fruits, as well as preparation for winter.

Improper watering

The reason why roses do not grow after planting in a permanent place may be too much or insufficient watering. In case of poor drainage, too damp or swampy soil, the roots will simply “suffocate” from lack of oxygen. Wet soil cools faster, which can also destroy root system. Excessive watering is especially harmful in the fall.

Optimal watering frequency: once every 7–10 days during active growth; during the hot dry period once every 3–5 days. Well, a bush of climbing roses will require up to 15 liters of water, 5–10 liters per plant. It is better to water in the evening. The sprinkling method or watering from a hose is acceptable in the morning - during the day, drops that fall on the leaves will burn them, and in the evening they can cause the development of fungal diseases. Another mistake is surface watering, in which the moisture practically does not reach the roots, so first make a hole around the perimeter of the bush 12–15 cm deep, fill it with water, preferably settled water, and then sprinkle it again and, if possible, mulch it.

Incorrectly planted grafted roses

When planting a seedling, make sure that the grafting site is located 3–4 cm below the surface. In this case, the planting should be deeper sandy soils, on the contrary, on clayey ones, it is smaller. If the grafting site is illuminated by the sun, new buds and shoots will form on the rootstock itself, that is, the rosehip, and it will begin to draw strength from the “cultivated” part of the plant. But in case of excessive deepening, the roots may rot or begin to rot. climbing roses require greater depth, up to 10 cm below soil level.

Fertilizer

Rose does not like either excess or lack of nutrients. Finding a reasonable balance is an important task for a rose lover.

Flaw

A lack of nitrogen causes the leaves to turn pale, and red dots appear on them (especially old ones). A reddish tint on dark green leaves may indicate a lack of phosphorus (if this color is not expected by the variety itself), and purple spots may also appear on them. The lack of this substance slows down the growth of shoots and roots, flowering occurs later and more sparingly. Lack of calcium retards root development, weakens stems and leaves, causes disease and can lead to dieback.

Excess

With an excess of nitrogen, roses will grow quickly, but will produce few flowers and will be susceptible to fungal diseases, besides, the stems will be weak and soft. Too much a large number of phosphorus will salinize the soil and cause a manganese deficiency. Excess calcium will delay the development of roses as well as its lack.

Last year I decided to propagate roses from cuttings, I even took them from my neighbors. Having cut them, I treated them with a growth stimulator, planted them in the ground, and sprinkled them on top river sand and covered it with jars. Watered, moistened. The emerging leaves grew up to 2 cm and began to dry out, all the cuttings turned black and died. What is the reason?

Growing a rose from a cutting is not that difficult. But despite this, the result is not always productive.

Sometimes the cuttings turn black and dry out. There are many reasons, and they are different.

The cutting did not take root

The growth of leaves does not always indicate that the cutting has taken root. You can often observe how a rose standing in water begins to grow young strong shoots in the axils of the leaves in the complete absence of roots. The same thing often happens with cuttings. A bud, most often the upper one, wakes up and begins to grow quickly due to the reserves of the cutting itself. For some time it looks quite viable, but then growth stops and the young shoot withers, the cutting itself turns black and dries out. Its plastic substances were spent on shoot growth to the detriment of root formation. If, when removing the cover, even a short time the leaves lose their elasticity and wither, this means that the cuttings have no roots and will no longer take root.

To prevent this from happening, you need to carefully approach the selection and preparation of the cutting itself. In addition to its size, you need to consider at what time and from what plant it was cut. The older mother bush, the harder rooting is. The mother plant should not be sick or overfed with nitrogen fertilizers. In addition, not all varieties of roses take root equally well. This is especially true for hybrid teas.

Improper soil preparation and non-compliance with the regime

♦ It is necessary that the substrate, which is intended for rooting, be loose, moisture-absorbing and breathable throughout its entire depth.

♦ The reaction must be neutral. An acidic environment also contributes to the death of cuttings.

♦ Excessive doses of stimulants are also undesirable.

♦ The place for rooting cuttings should be light, but without straight lines sun rays. In the shade, cuttings do not have enough light for photosynthesis, and in the sun under cover the temperature may rise, which will lead to drying out of the planting material.

♦ Waterlogging of the soil can also cause rotting and death of cuttings.

♦ There should be no sudden changes in temperature between day and night.

Diseases
During the rooting process, cuttings may become sick and die. For example, young roots can be affected gray mold. We must ensure that there are no foci of infection nearby.

Cuttings must be without mechanical damage, with smooth, even cuts. Their plantings should not be thickened. It is necessary to periodically check the cuttings and remove diseased cuttings at the first symptoms.

How to do it right

Suitable for cuttings are annual semi-lignified shoots 5-6 mm in diameter. Cutting time is June-July (best during budding or at the moment of full flowering). By this time, the wood has already matured.

The cuttings should be approximately 10 cm long and have 4 buds. An inclined cut at an angle of 45 degrees is made under the bud itself, and a straight upper cut is made 5 mm above the bud. Upper leaves shorten by half, and cut off the lower ones.

The lower part of the cutting is treated with a stimulant, stuck into the ground at an angle of 45 degrees, so that its upper part “looks” to the north, and covered.

Galina DUBOVAYA, collector garden plants, Mytishchi.

Imagine my friend’s shock when I carried a huge basin of dry twigs in my arms. Introduced?! Then came the question: What is this? I didn’t even realize at first that the question related to seedlings roses in the basin, and answered honestly: “Substrate!” Then we figured out what kind of half-dead thing was sticking out in that basin. Got it figured out!

It's me, Irina Taits, with a bowl of rose seedlings

Well, now I’m telling you how I became the owner of 14 dead rose seedlings!

This is not the first time for me to buy online. Usually everything is great, BUT not this year. I won’t say what happened, but even trusted suppliers sent bad planting material! About the OCS (open root system) of 2015, I want to sing a not very decent song! In short, the “first lady” and the “pink piano” are standing in a basin - relaxing!

These rose seedlings come after purchasing online.
This is now considered a closed root system

I often put flowers in order - I plant many myself, and give some to my friends. But the fact remains: I'm doing resuscitation of roses after the purchase Lately very often. What to do if the supplier answers all questions and complaints with “I have nothing to do with it - I don’t know myself!” But I’ll tell you how to help plants.

Resuscitation of rose seedlings

Firstly, we cut off the dry (and I mean dry!) branches so that no more than 2 cm of dry material remains. If there is mold or rot, take a bright solution of potassium permanganate and burn everything with it.
Secondly, if you pulled out a rose seedling and found transparent worms, run for antihelminthic drugs - take some of it yourself, and we will treat the plants with some of it. Nematodes are the same as worms and can be easily eradicated with drugs such as cat prasitela. I soak for 2-3 hours completely in a bowl with diluted prazitelom: for 1 plant 2 tablets and approximately 5 liters of water.
Thirdly, we go to the store and buy energen or Epin. You can also purchase more expensive drugs like Baikal M and other joys from M-ok, but this is no longer necessary. Even root will be enough for the most part.

And now about the main thing - preparing liquid substrate. Like any patient, a damaged plant does not digest food well, that is, it cannot eat ordinary land. Need a substrate!

Composition of solution for resuscitation of rose seedlings: For a 10-12 liter basin we take 1 kg of high-moor peat and 2 kg of black soil or nutritious soil for roses. Next, fill it with water until you get a liquid slurry, and dilute the tablet in it. energena or ampoule epina; as an option a bag root

We lower the roses in a reclining position so that the grafting is covered with the slurry. You can also put a bag on top to enhance the effect, but there is a risk. If you have roses standing in the sun, then they can burn (plants also burn in the sun, tanning is not always healthy).

We update the substrate every 3 maximum 5 days! We take into account that at the end we will get very overfed plant seedlings - we are not adding much joy to the planting hole!

How long does it take to resuscitate? I cannot give an exact answer to this question. The waiting time always varies, but usually the procedure lasts up to a month. If they haven’t moved within such a period of time, it means they’re in the trash. Only once did I have a precedent with a rose that woke up in autumn. Four months in substrate! Now it is growing, blooming and making me happy. I simply had no time to throw it away!

There is one more An option for resuscitating roses is to immediately plant them in the soil! But here you need to be so careful that it is always wet enough that it’s easier to live in an embrace with a basin. Although the taste and color of the felt-tip pen, as they say, are different.

But let’s get back to my 14 croutons - 7 of them have already been planted, and I’ll plant five more in the next few days. There are only 2 seedlings left. Not a bad result? I wish you good results too.

Photo report – Operation “Resuscitation”

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Planting roses

On the new site, the first thing we did after construction was to plant a rose garden. There are 46 roses - and this is just the beginning.

How else. It is impossible to deny yourself anything. And roses - they are so gorgeous. But, about the main thing. We planted roses in parts as far as possible, and we were convinced that it is best to plant roses as soon as the snow melted. In our region (Trans-Urals), the ground freezes, so we prepare a planting hole (and if there are a lot of roses, a ditch) in the fall. As soon as the snow melts (this year it is April 30), we help ourselves to dig out a hole with a crowbar and plant a rose. A little labor-intensive, but roses planted before the leaves bloom build up a powerful root system and react very sensitively to weather changes, in no hurry to grow intensively until all the frosts have passed. And these seedlings then form good healthy bushes

If you plant a rose later, in May, already with leaves, then you need to protect the rose from frost and wind even more carefully.

A rose may lose its leaves if it is exposed to frost. For a strong seedling this is not very scary; the leaves will grow back (see photo). But the decorative effect of roses will be postponed until the second half of summer.

It is very important to take into account the microclimate of the site. It's very windy at our new site. The wind dries out the green shoots of roses very much (until the root system is fully operational). The solution to the problem is a technical pot, which, as it turns out, protects the rose seedling well from both frost and wind.

The pot is secured with a long hook made of reinforcement. “Place” the pot on the seedling and observe the well-being of the rose. We put the pot aside and left the rose for the day while you were at the site. Roses are all with different character and everyone adapts differently. In the photo there is Ostinka (on the left), which is clearly uncomfortable without a pot, and Rose Delbar, which feels great (they were planted on the same day)

Accordingly, we cover Austin again with a pot. This rose needed three weeks under cover until the leaves stopped drooping in our very windy and dry microclimate. But in the case of this rose, we were in a hurry to remove the pot and the stems dried out. A bio-cocktail and a week under shade again, and the rose revived, the buds of the base began to awaken.

Some roses take a long time to develop a strong root system. Namely, this is the most important task for the good survival of the first year rose. And the rose, it feels like it’s lost in thought. It is green, but the buds do not swell (see photo).

But it is precisely such roses that first of all “work” on beautiful bush. They first grow shoots from the base of the stem to make the bush thicker. (See photo)

First-year seedlings endure all the hardships of garden plot. Pests do not bypass them either.

Of course, the decorative value of roses decreases during this period. But as a matter of principle, I do not use any means (even biological ones).
The first year of a rose's life is its adaptation to your garden plot. No one can teach a rose to survive and no one will give you exact advice on how to do this, because the microclimate of your area is unique. And we are preparing the rose for at least a 20-year life (this is how many years roses live in our climate). Therefore, I believe that roses should be treated like children. Adapt yourself! And we are always there, if necessary, we will shade, add mulch, and water with radiance.

Good luck to you, dear gardeners. Yulia Pridannikova, Kurgan