Drywall on walls without frame. Drywall on walls without a frame - easy installation, excellent results

If you prefer to carry out home repairs exclusively on your own, and also always try to save money, read our article to the end. We will tell you how to attach drywall with your own hands to walls without a frame. So that they become perfectly even with a minimum of material costs.

Scope of material use

Drywall is composite material, manufactured in the form of sheets with high flexibility and durability (GCR). Many characteristics of a material depend on its type. And the type is selected for the specific parameters of the room: moisture-resistant is used in the bathroom and kitchen, non-moisture-resistant in the bedroom or living room.

Its use allows you to level the curvature of the walls of an already built country cottage or city apartment. And we will then talk about how you can do it yourself by cladding walls with a sheet of plasterboard without first constructing a metal frame.

Possible use of plasterboard structures

Advantages of gypsum plasterboard

The performance characteristics demonstrated by a sheet of plasterboard are: in an ideal way suitable for residential premises. Therefore, experts say that when leveling the surface of the walls country house or city apartment best material can not found.

Other advantages include the following:

• environmental cleanliness, absence of toxins and, as a result, harmlessness to others;
• complies with radiation indicator standards;
• features energy-saving parameters;
• characterized by excellent sound insulation ability;
• fire resistant and does not burn;
• there are species that are resistant to high levels of moisture;
• has a fairly wide scope of application, as it allows builders and interior designers to realize the most incredible architectural fantasies and decorative ideas.

Gypsum boards

Required Tools

A person’s arsenal when working with gypsum boards should include the following tools:

• measuring tape: for taking measurements;
• construction knife: for cutting plasterboard;
• spatula: for applying putty at the joints of sheets;
• fine sandpaper for sanding joints;
• electric jigsaw: if you need to create shaped inserts;
• level: to determine the curvature of a surface.

Required Tools

How to attach drywall to a wall

In most cases, to attach plasterboard sheets to walls, a frame of metal profiles is first constructed. However, this technique cannot always be applied without problems.

There are situations when installing a frame is simply impossible. So, in small rooms, wall decoration with plasterboard can be organized without such a design. After all profile frame“eats up” quite a lot of free space, which is already limited in a small room.

A prerequisite for the effectiveness and durability of repairs is a dry surface. If the wall was wet during the work, the finish will not last long on it.

Frameless method of fastening drywall
Frame method of fastening drywall

We carry out measurements and calculations

An obligatory stage of work is to carry out measurements and calculations relevant to the premises. Measurements of the height and width of the walls are carried out with a measuring tape. Specific numbers will allow you to calculate the working surface area and calculate the current volume of materials.

Examine the wall on which the slab will be mounted in the future for curvature. After all, the features of covering the base with plasterboard without a frame will largely depend on this parameter.

Using a level we check the unevenness of the wall

When choosing plasterboard boards First of all, you need to determine the current conditions in your premises. Be sure to take note that gypsum boards must be laid offset. This technique allows you to prevent cross-shaped joints.

Installation diagram of plasterboard slabs with offset

How to cut material

To cut the product, mark a cut line on it with a simple pencil. Then, make an incision in the gypsum board with one construction knife and break it, bending the product inward along the intended line. Now you can make an incision on the other side and the final break of the gypsum board. This way the edges of the sheets will be neat.

Drywall cutting diagram

Preparing the wall for plasterboard covering

The next stage of work is surface preparation. It involves cleaning the base from dust, dirt and peelings of the previous finish. A porous surface should be primed. In the case of a new building, other repairs to the premises must already be completed. So, before you begin installing slabs on its walls, all communications must be installed. Then you can safely choose one of the methods for performing this task.

Apply adhesive composition

For the purpose of fixing drywall on the wall, you can use starting putty. It is also permissible to use building gypsum, to which water and PVA are added. Such a composition will differ in high quality characteristics. But most the best option is ready-made glue.

The mixture should be applied to the drywall in large drops using a notched trowel.

Applying glue to drywall

Installation of gypsum boards

And to complete the work, you need to install drywall sheets. The construction of a frame for drywall is inappropriate here, since it requires enough free space in the room. And the technique and actual adhesive composition for this operation is determined by the degree of surface curvature.

If a very smooth wall is covered with plasterboard, then it must first be primed special means. So, excellent option“Concrete contact” soil will appear, which significantly increases the adhesion of the base. And for leveling bases with plasterboard, you can prefer “Perlfix” and “Fugenfüller” from the famous Knauf brand. These compositions will reliably fix the plasterboard on the base without losing their original qualities.

If the walls of the house are made of concrete, the installation of gypsum boards should be carried out after they have been treated with a primer such as “Rikombigrunt” or “Tiefengrund”. Such compositions prevent the absorption of glue by concrete structures.

Surface primer

Covering a wall with plasterboard with differences of less than 4 mm involves gluing gypsum boards to the working wall using a Fugenfüller-type putty mixture. It is applied in thin longitudinal rows. To perform this operation, take a notched spatula. This tool will make working with putty very comfortable.

If the unevenness of the base does not exceed 20 mm, then it is worth using the more reliable Perlfix glue for gluing the gypsum board to it. Moreover, the composition should be applied in piles using a trowel, observing a step size of 35 cm. The piles should have the same size and height less than 25 mm. If wall defects exceed 40 mm, then installation of plasterboard on the bases is carried out on top of the lathing using Fugenfüller type putty and self-tapping screws.

Cladding walls with plasterboard using glue

After the beds are applied to the wall, you will need to make pads from drywall scraps. You can also use wooden slats. They are mounted around the perimeter of the working surface. And then gypsum boards are installed on the bottom of the created linings. Light blows from a rubber mallet force the sheets into place more tightly. Experts also advise not to skimp on glue, but to make a thicker layer.

Applying adhesive mixture to the wall
Installing drywall on the wall using glue

Finishing

When the installation of gypsum boards is completed, the joints of the sheets are puttied and sanded. sandpaper until perfectly even. Next, the walls can be covered decorative plaster, paint, wallpaper and the like.

Finishing
Puttying seams

Installing gypsum boards on walls without a frame in order to level them is quite easy to do with your own hands. To do this, it is enough to accurately measure the curvature of the bases, read our article to the end, and also have plasterboard sheets, wooden slats and glue.

How to attach drywall to a wall without a frame - technologies, materials, features. IN Lately drywall has become one of the most popular repair materials for houses and apartments. They are even, have a large area and are smooth, which makes it possible to quickly remove the curvature of the walls, as well as prepare the room for further finishing.

In addition, if the sheets are attached to the frame, there will be additional opportunity in order to insulate and soundproof the ceiling/walls.

But not in every case it is possible to make a frame, since such a design will “steal” usable area apartments. For this reason, it will be useful for apartment owners who are planning renovation work to learn how to finish walls with plasterboard without losing useful space in an already cramped room. There are several methods for attaching gypsum boards, but each of them will require preliminary preparation.

Preparatory work

Every job begins by preparing the entire necessary set of tools and purchasing all the necessary materials.

Materials you will need:

• LGK. Depending on the room in which the material will be used, you can use ordinary sheets, or moisture-resistant ones, and if you plan to finish the wall near a fireplace or stove, then fire-resistant ones. The number of sheets can be calculated if we take into account the area of ​​the walls in the room, taking into account the fact that approximately 15% of it is occupied by doorways and windows.

The amount of material can be easily and simply calculated using an online calculator.

Cleaning the surface and filling defects

To ensure that the sheets adhere well to the wall, and that there is no fungus or mold in any remaining gaps between them, the surface should be carefully prepared. Do not neglect such measures, since the period of use of the finish and the base will depend on them.

If there is an old plaster layer on the wall that has peeled off in places, then its traces should be at least partially (or better yet completely) removed, especially in the area of ​​the defect, as this can reduce the adhesion of the materials to each other. If on the wall thick layer“fur coat” plaster, which consists of 2 or more layers that were applied at different time intervals, it is better to remove it completely, since it can begin to lag behind the base at any moment, and sheets of drywall will begin to come off with it. And here thin layer plaster will not be a problem for covering plasterboard walls without a frame.

1. After the walls are cleared of the old plaster layer, cracks or even peculiar “sinks” can be found on the surface. They should be sealed, otherwise condensation may form, and this will become a catalyst for the development of mold.
2. First, widen the cracks, and this is required so that the material in the seal better stays inside. Sinks and widened cracks must be cleaned of sand and plaster particles with a soft brush, and then treated well with a primer.
3. To fill cracks, it is better to choose a repair compound that is close to the base material, or one that has high adhesion. If the cracks are large enough and cover more than 50% of the surface, they can be repaired polyurethane foam.
4. Gaps with a small width can be filled with plastic sealant, which will take the shape of the crack both when it narrows and when it expands.
5. After the primer has dried, all defects can be filled more densely with the repair compound and brought into the general plane of the surface. If protruding protrusions are found on the wall, they should be knocked down or cleaned to a general level.
6. Afterwards, all walls should be primed using a deep-penetrating antiseptic.

Which primer is best?

The durability of the coating will depend on the quality of the material that will be applied as the base. It is best to choose proven manufacturers, or those that are very popular, since the company will not produce bad material for short-term gain and spoil reputation.

This material is applied in 1 or 2 layers, both of which must dry well. The process is performed using a soft roller, and hard to reach places And internal corners should be further worked with a brush. The time for the primer to dry completely is indicated on the bottle or pack, and if necessary, adhere to it, since installation of drywall should only be done on a clean, dry wall.

Marking

When the walls have been treated with a primer layer and are dry, you can begin marking. To do this, ideally you should use laser level. If you don't have one, skip it in the usual way– building level or plumb line, rule, square and tape measure. The easiest way would be to use the first option.

1. During marking, you should take into account the gaps for deformation, which should remain at the junction of the gypsum board with the ceiling and floor. During shrinkage at home, they will prevent the sheets from being damaged on hard surfaces.
2. The gaps between the sheets of finishing material must be from 0.3 to 0.5 cm, and the sheet should be raised from the floor by 0.8-1 cm. To do this, a horizontal control line should be marked on top, and on the floor it will be easier to maintain the gaps by placing a piece of plywood of the required thickness under the sheet . Later, when the glue has hardened and the drywall is attached to the wall without a frame, the supports can be removed and the gaps at the bottom and top filled with foam.
3. If the gypsum board does not completely cover the height of the wall, then you will have to cut two lines - along the height of the whole sheet and along the upper edge of the wall. Such an area will be covered with a cut cloth from a single fragment of the required size. Such elements can create additional solid sheets only on top, but most professionals recommend placing them in a checkerboard pattern, namely alternately.
4. The corners in a room are not always straight, and for this reason, using a plumb line, you can measure and accurately mark a vertical line along the joint on two walls. It is required in order to complete the installation and secure the first sheet along it, which should stand perfectly straight. The evenness will depend on how it is fixed.

Afterwards you can move on to studying glue for gypsum plasterboards.

Which adhesive composition is better?

Installation of gypsum board sheets on the wall without using frame structure performed on different surfaces according to the degree of evenness. For this reason, you can use different adhesives for the job. To do this, we will divide them into three conditional groups: installation on smooth walls, on brick walls and on uneven walls.

Adhesive for smooth surfaces

Smooth walls include plastered stone and monolithic concrete surfaces. Naturally, they are not always smooth, but usually no serious leveling is required. It may be necessary to place beacons or gypsum plasterboard or gypsum mixtures if the surface has a slope in one direction. To the corrected or flat wall Glue the drywall to any composition - it can be a cement/gypsum-based composition, or also polymer mastic. But the simplest option is to use polyurethane foam.

If the surface is smooth and even, you can also use glue, which is made in the form of mastic and is sold in special plastic cartridge tubes, and is also squeezed out using a construction gun or syringe. Gypsum- or cement-based compositions are sold dry and require dilution with water before application. All proportions are indicated on the packaging. If you use this particular composition, then before installing the canvas you should sprinkle it with a little water.

Features of installation work on brick walls

Even those walls that are made of brick have to be leveled with the help of gypsum plasterboard. If the masonry is smooth and of high quality, then installing gypsum boards on it will not differ much from fixing it on a flat surface. But still, such a wall has defects in the form of seams between bricks and differences. Thus, the glue will be distributed unevenly, and the canvas may not be installed securely.

In this case, the preparation of the brick surface is carried out as follows:

1. Define vertical wall using a plumb line. If there are differences that are more than 2 cm, you should make a backing from strips with a width of 10-12 cm. Even strips should be fixed vertically from the ceiling to the floor or in parallel, depending on the location of the irregularities. Such trimmings will become figurative beacons in order to secure large canvases.
2. Occasionally, instead of even stripes, rectangles are used, and their size is 10 by 15 cm. They need to be glued to the wall at a distance of 15-25 cm from each other, depending on the need.

When leveling brick wall you can use any glue, but the best and economical option will use cement/gypsum based adhesive. If you use polymer mastics or foam, then a lot of such material will be required and this does not guarantee that it will be attached securely.

You should also take into account the material from which the bricks in the masonry are made. If it is red brick or foam concrete, then you can use any type of glue, and for cinder blocks and sand-lime brick a special approach will be required, since some compounds need to be strengthened. Ready mixes in dry form they are universal, but this is not always confirmed in practice, and many pros improve them by adding special components. For example, for 10 kg of cement glue, add 500 ml of PVA and 1 kg of gypsum, and for gypsum glue, add only PVA per 10 kg (the same 500 ml). Whatever you choose, you should fix the drywall with dowels “fungi”,

Installation on an uneven surface

In this case, glue, which is sold in the form of a dry mixture, will help out, since you will need a lot of it. Attach drywall to the wall without a frame, if any big differences It’s possible, and this method will involve attaching it to a brick wall. Only in certain areas, instead of one layer of substrate, you will need to glue 2-3. This method will require a lot of time, since each layer in the substrate must dry before another one is glued onto it.

On a curved wall, ultra-reliable fixation of the canvas to the surface using dowels and dense filling of the space between and the wall, in particular at the edges, is required. If you use backings, they can be attached to the wall with foam, and to glue the main sheet, use an adhesive solution made from two different compositions.

Installing gypsum boards without a frame

Application techniques are presented here different glues into sheets, and they differ from each other.

The most popular material is gypsum-based adhesive. The composition on cement is also often used, but both options are applied to the canvas according to the same principle.

Before installation, the edges at the joint should be cut at a certain angle, namely chamfered, so that a gap appears that will be filled with putty. But keep in mind that it is not necessary to apply the composition to a sheet of material, but you can do it directly on the wall. there is no fundamental difference, but in this case the wall must be prepared using a primer.

Synthetic finish

The second installation method is the use of a synthetic composition, and it can be done in two ways:

• Apply mastic or foam to the surface of the plasterboard.
• Fill the space between the installed and leveled sheet and the wall with foam.

The method using polyurethane foam is more interesting.

Gluing onto polyurethane foam

This option is used when installing the sheet on a wall that does not require alignment. Foam is applied to gypsum plasterboard more economically than glue from a dry mixture. It will be enough just to foam the strips along the entire perimeter of the sheet and diagonally. After the composition has been applied, the sheet should be glued immediately. Since the foam has good adhesion to any surface, it will set quickly, and after 24 hours the sheet will be firmly attached to the wall.

Similarly, all materials are attached to the wall and allowed to dry for a day. If polyurethane mastic was used, it should be applied to the sheet in frequent stripes and along the entire edge. Glue should be applied inside the sheet different ways, but so that the lines are at a distance of 15 to 20 cm from each other. In this case, when pressing the sheet, the glue will be evenly distributed (provided that the walls are smooth). Since all mastics dry for a long time and different time, when purchasing, pay attention to this.

Bonding and filling voids

This method is the most difficult, but gives excellent results when leveling far from even surfaces. Note that for this you can only use foam and in large quantities. The consumption depends on how curved the wall is, i.e. what will be the size of the cavity between the gypsum board and it. To install the frame to the wall without this method, additional materials will be required.

Before filling, adjust the foam dosage to use the material as economically as possible. This should be done in advance, because gluing will be done blindly.

One of the methods of rough finishing is the formation of the surface when installing drywall on walls without a frame. In the article we will consider efficient technologies, which involve installing gypsum board directly on the wall surface, and also indicate the list of materials required for this.

Frameless installation of gypsum boards - what are the pros and cons?

The main method of formation wall structure from plasterboard sheets is their installation on a pre-constructed frame. This technology is a priority, as it allows you to quickly create an ideal surface, regardless of the quality of the base wall. The space between the profile and the wall is convenient to use for hidden installation of various communications: electrical wires in a protective corrugation, water and heating pipes.

But the frame method of installing gypsum boards has several disadvantages:

• hiding the useful space of the room ( minimum distance from the base surface to the back of the profile – 5 cm, thickness of the plasterboard sheet – 12.5-15 mm);
• to obtain a rigid structure resistant to possible mechanical influences, it is necessary to sheathe the sheathing in two sheets or significantly compact the pitch load-bearing elements frame;
• problems with reliable fastening of heavy hanging furniture;
• complexity of design load-bearing frame, which requires professional skills and an impressive set of tools;
• the relative high cost of the process of creating a false wall from gypsum plasterboard.

If you need to level the walls in a small room (bathroom, toilet, corridor), “stealing” up to 7 cm of usable space on the lining of each wall is an unaffordable luxury, especially when there is no need to conceal the laying of complex communications or additional insulation or soundproofing. In this situation, it is more reasonable to create a surface for subsequent finishing by attaching drywall to the wall without profiles. The sheets are attached directly to the wall using adhesive solutions, mounting foam or dowel screws.

Sometimes these materials are used in combination, for example foam plus dowels, or assembly adhesive plus foam. This does not mean that one method of attaching drywall excludes the use of another. In addition to compactness, the frameless method of installing drywall on the wall has several more advantages:

• relative ease of installation at high speed;
• smaller material costs for a set of installation activities;
• opportunity to do robust construction, using single sheet sheathing.

The disadvantage of rough finishing of walls without frames and profiles with plasterboard is the impossibility high-quality installation with large longitudinal or vertical curvature of the base wall (more than 6 cm within one sheet). Another feature is the high requirements for the plasterboard itself. Sheets of sheathing material should be minimally deformed. If the slight curvature of plasterboard sheets does not matter when installed on a frame to which they are rigidly attached, then the frameless method involves a floating installation, so it is important to properly store and transport the material, preventing its deformation. GCRs purchased in advance cannot be stored in damp rooms, especially in a standing position, leaning them against the wall. The sheets should be laid out on a flat floor or shelf.

How do you fix drywall - glue, foam or dowels?

To attach plasterboard to the base surface, several materials are used, which are specialized and universal. The first group includes special compositions designed for installing drywall to a wall without profiles. These are dry packaged mixtures on a polymer cement or gypsum base. The most popular representative of specialized compounds is gypsum glue Knauf Perlfix, which most professionals prefer to use. It is packaged dry in 30 kg bags.

Advantages of this glue:

• sufficient time for installation and correction of the sheet position (30-40 minutes);
• high strength and reliability of the wall/gypsum plasterboard connection;
• high elasticity of the prepared solution, allowing installation on surfaces with a curvature of up to 3 cm without gluing additional stops;
• there is no need to wait for the glue to dry - immediately after it sets, the plasterboard surface is suitable for subsequent finishing (processing);
• sticks even to materials with increased moisture absorption (wood, porous building materials).

The second most commonly used material is polyurethane foam, which is a universal fastener used not only to secure drywall. Polyurethane foam is more often used for fixing small fragments of gypsum boards when refining door and window slopes, or in combination with gypsum adhesive to fill large voids and better reliability gluing sheets on walls with large curvature.

Less commonly used are polymer adhesives - liquid nails. The use of such glue is justified only in cases of mounting small fragments on a reliable and even base. Liquid nails do not allow you to adjust the position of the sheet relative to the base surface. Dowel screws are sometimes used as auxiliary fastening elements. They additionally attract gypsum boards with the main use of the adhesive materials listed above. Instead of dowels, you can take black self-tapping screws of the required length if the base surface is made of wood or loose porous building materials (shell rock, aerated concrete, foam blocks).

Sheathing walls with plasterboard without a frame - pre-installation preparation

The use of glue allows you to create a plasterboard surface that is practically not inferior in quality to that when installing gypsum plasterboard on the sheathing. For work you will need the following tools and materials:

• aluminum rule;
• bubble level;
• thread (line);
• set of spatulas;
• drill equipped with a mixer;
• container for preparing glue;
• wide paint brush;
• flat wall (12.5 mm thick) plasterboard sheets (regular or moisture resistant);
• gypsum glue for gypsum boards;
• primer.

When you have stocked up with everything you need, we move on to preparing the surface. Gypsum glue adheres perfectly to any construction and finishing materials (various bricks, classic and porous concrete, cement-sand and lime plaster). The main requirement for high-quality adhesion of the glue to the base is the absence of dust and many unreliably held areas. The latter are removed, after which the wall is primed. Before priming, we recommend using a hammer or hammer to knock down areas of masonry material or plaster that sharply protrude above the general surface (if any). This will make the work easier and significantly reduce glue consumption.

To prepare the adhesive solution, pour water into a container (plastic bucket) at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6-1.7 kg of dry mixture (this is according to the instructions). It’s easier to do this: pour a little more than a third of the bucket with water, gradually pour the dry mixture into it. When a pile of dry glue appears above the surface of the water, mix with a mixer. If the resulting mass does not leave a depression after removing the rotating mixer, add the dry mixture. If, after thorough mixing, areas of unwetted solution remain and the mixer rotates under load, add water.

How to attach plasterboard to gypsum glue - step-by-step algorithm

Having selected and prepared one of the walls for work, first “probe” its relief and deviation from the vertical with a rule and level, during which a “picture” will be formed that gives an idea of ​​where a larger and where a minimum layer of glue will be needed. Then you need to decide on the general direction of the future drywall surface. To do this, it is convenient to stretch a thread along the bottom (5-7 cm above the floor) along the wall, which will serve as a guide for installing the outer surface of the sheets.

The thread is tensioned taking into account the surface topography so that the installed sheet does not rest against the existing protrusions of the base wall.

If the wall is not very crooked (it “walks” no more than 3 cm within the area of ​​the sheet being fixed), installation is carried out without preliminary installation of additional supports. If there are significant concavities, strips or squares of gypsum plasterboard scraps that remain after cutting the sheets are pre-glued. If there are none or few, you will have to sacrifice a whole sheet for this, cutting it into the necessary substrates. When the glue holding the pads that trim the wall has hardened, we proceed to gluing whole (or cut to size) sheets.

Gypsum adhesive is applied to the base surface over the entire area of ​​the gypsum board being installed. Applying the solution to drywall is inconvenient. Firstly, it greatly increases its mass, making it difficult to move. Secondly, by forming slides of glue on the wall, it is easier to control their required size and the degree of protrusion above the general surface. The glue is applied randomly, but evenly and in such a way that the fourth or fifth part of the sheet is glued. In the area of ​​the baseboard and the intended fastening of hanging objects, it is more advisable to make the adhesive pad continuous. Now that the adhesive mass is already on the wall, do the following:

1. 1. Under the area where the plasterboard is installed on the floor, we place stops up to 10 mm thick (after the glue hardens, the linings are pulled out and a deformation gap is formed between the plasterboard and the floor).
2. 2. We hold the sheet tilted upward from the wall by the stretched guide thread and gradually completely lean the drywall against the wall.
3. 3. If the sheet being installed is even slightly stuck to the glue, it will not fall, so you can release it and analyze the position and possible actions to correct it.
4. 4. We begin to gradually press the drywall into the glue. First, we align the bottom along the thread, then, under constant control of the level and rules, we place the entire sheet in the intended place. The drywall is moved to the base surface by hitting it with the palm of your hand or with a rubber hammer.
5. 5. Pressing drywall? It's important not to overdo it. It is problematic to return areas planted deeper than intended. Often, to do this, you have to “tear off” the entire sheet and re-install it.
6. 6. In the same sequence, the next gypsum board is installed nearby. It is important here to control the formation beautiful seam between the sheets and keeping them in the same plane.

The remaining walls are also covered, after which further finishing is carried out on the surface, no different from that on plasterboard that is fixed to a frame made of profiles.

Installation on polyurethane foam - simple and quick

Polyurethane foam is universal construction glue and sealant. Polyurethane material Adheres reliably to almost all surfaces. This property of construction foam is sometimes used for local installation of gypsum boards. How to attach drywall to a wall without profiles using polyurethane foam?

It must be applied to a fragment cut to size. sheet material foam in strips or pointwise (taking into account leaving space for its expansion) and press tightly to the base surface. The desired position of the gypsum board fragment is adjusted using dowel screws or self-tapping screws. They will not allow the drywall to move under the pressure of the expanding polyurethane. After 2-3 hours, the gypsum board is securely fixed and ready for subsequent finishing.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

Leveling and covering walls with plasterboard is very often carried out when repair work in the apartment. As a rule, this operation involves attaching the plasterboard to a metal or wooden frame. But there are cases when it is easier and more profitable to attach drywall to the wall without a metal profile and wooden sheathing.

When can you do without building a frame?

It is recommended to attach sheets of drywall directly to the wall if it is relatively flat and the differences in the plane are no more than 5 centimeters. This surface can be leveled using an adhesive. Installing drywall without sheathing has many advantages:

• GKL easily attaches to walls and partitions made of any material. It is only necessary to carry out appropriate surface preparation. Meanwhile, screwing the profile to a wall made of foam block or aerated concrete is quite problematic.
• This cladding method significantly saves free space in the room: a frame made of metal profiles or wooden beams “eats” at least 5 cm when finishing each wall. If you attach drywall to all 4 walls, then small room will noticeably decrease in size.
• Savings: no need to buy profiles, as well as various connecting elements. Adhesives will be much cheaper.

• Installation of drywall without constructing a frame is done quickly and does not require special professional skills.

Note! If the wall is very crooked, you cannot do without a frame. This will be feasible both from a technical and economic point of view. Sheathing is also needed if you plan to insulate or soundproof a room, hide communications, or place lighting elements under sheets of drywall.

If lathing is still required, but for some reason it is not possible to use a profile, in some cases it can be made from wooden beams. All the pros and cons of a wooden frame, as well as the procedure for its installation, are written in.

What brand of drywall do you use?

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Having prepared the wall, you can proceed to marking its surface.

Marking, important points

This operation is carried out standard set tools. You will need a level, plumb line, tape measure, rule and square. A laser level is very convenient, but it is not always possible to borrow it from acquaintances or friends, and buying it for one-time work is too expensive.

The following points must be taken into account:

• Gaps remain between the ceiling, floor and sheets of drywall. They are made in case of shrinkage of the house and prevent warping of the plasterboard. The gap between the sheet and the ceiling is 3–5 mm, the distance to the floor is 8–10. At the top it is enough to draw a line marking the boundary of the drywall, and at the bottom it is more convenient to use spacers required thickness from chipboard or plywood. After attaching the drywall, they are removed and the gaps are filled with foam.
• One sheet may not be enough vertically to cover the wall. In this case, an additional line is drawn indicating the boundary of the entire gypsum board. As a rule, cut pieces are placed on top, although craftsmen advise fastening whole sheets and halves in a checkerboard pattern.
• For correct installation Using the first slab, a vertical line is drawn in the corner of the room using a plumb line. All other fragments of drywall will appear in a single plane with the first sheet, which is why its correct installation is so important.

How to attach drywall to the wall?

There are several methods for fixing gypsum boards. The choice of a specific one depends on the condition and nature of the base surface.

• For a flat and smooth wall, you can choose any adhesive composition: a mixture based on gypsum or cement, foam or polymer mastic.
• For brick unplastered walls, foam or mastic will require too much a large number of, and they may not provide reliable fastening. It is better to choose a composition based on gypsum or cement, which will fill all the depressions in the masonry.
• On wooden walls GKL is mounted using wood screws. It's as simple as hanging a shelf or a picture.
• The situation is more complicated if the wall surface needs adjustment in some plane. Here you will need beacons that set the correct position for the sheet of drywall. They can be made from gypsum board scraps or other available materials. The plate is fixed to the wall with screws, and with their help the necessary position adjustment is carried out. Subsequently, the cavity between the wall and the drywall is filled with polyurethane foam.

Fastening gypsum boards with glue

After all preparatory work, marking and laying the necessary communications according to the instructions are installed adhesive composition. This is the case if you do not use ready-made glue, usually supplied in tubes for a glue gun.

For reliable fixation, it is not at all necessary to cover the entire back surface of the drywall with the composition: this will only lead to unnecessary costs. The glue is applied in separate cakes, placing them in a checkerboard pattern, and always in a strip along the entire perimeter of the sheet. The second option is a grid of strips placed at a distance of 10–15 cm from each other.

The gypsum board is pressed tightly against the wall surface. To distribute the glue evenly, you can use a wide rule or a board: carefully move it over the area to be glued several times.

The setting time of the solution is about 30 minutes. During this period, you need to check the position of the fixed fragment and make the necessary adjustments. In the future, this will no longer be possible.

The adhesive composition can be applied directly to the wall surface. Some masters claim that this is much more convenient.

The adhesive installation method is described in more detail.

Foam mounting

It is carried out in exactly the same way as with the adhesive composition.

An important point: the foam expands when hardening, so the sheet is fixed in the desired position for at least an hour. This can be done in two ways:

• using various supports;
• securing the gypsum board with dowel nails and placing strips of foam foam under its surface as shock absorbers.

Mounting on polyurethane foam with void filling

Drywall can be attached to a curved wall using corrective underlays. But the presence of a void between it and the base surface is undesirable. To ensure secure fastening, it is better to fill this cavity with polyurethane foam. The algorithm of actions in this case will be as follows:

• Using markings, we position the sheet of drywall in the desired position.
• We make 10–12 holes in it, spaced evenly over the entire area. In this case, the drill marks the recesses for the dowels in the wall.
• We remove the gypsum boards, expand and deepen the holes in the ceiling to the required size, and then hammer in plastic dowels.
• On the back side of the sheet we glue strips of foam rubber or penofol of the required thickness as shock absorbers.
• We carefully attach the gypsum board to the wall with screws with a wide head. Another option is to use washers with regular screws. By releasing or twisting them, we align the fragment in the required plane, controlling its position using a level and using the created markings.
• We make the required number of holes in the drywall intended for injection of foam. We place them between the screws, the diameter of the holes is 7–8 mm.

After the foam has dried, you can unscrew the screws securing the gypsum board. But professionals advise simply recessing them into its surface by 1–2 mm.

Wooden wall mounting

The lightest of possible options. The gypsum board is secured with wood screws. To screw them in, it is recommended to use a screwdriver: this way the drywall crumbles less, and there is less chance of pushing it through if you correctly set the required force on the tool.

The position of the fixed sheet is corrected by loosening or tightening the screws. If there are no chamfers on the plasterboard, then they are made using a painting knife or.

After covering the wall, the standard treatment of the plasterboard surface is carried out: sealing them and the holes for the screw heads with putty, grouting and priming the entire area new wall. After the coating has dried, the base is ready for further finishing.

Ask all questions about the installation process in the comments - a finishing expert will answer them.


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Installation of drywall can be carried out on walls and ceilings in two main ways: on the frame and directly on the wall.

Frameless installation involves fixing sheets of drywall directly to the surface, without first creating a frame. The choice of method depends on the unevenness of the wall or ceiling.

It can be produced in three ways:

1. For gypsum putty. It is acceptable in cases where irregularities are no more than 4 millimeters. The binder material is applied along the edge and in the middle of the gypsum board in a thin layer.
2. Glue method is used when the unevenness is up to 20 millimeters. Glue is applied to gypsum board thin lines over the entire surface, the distance between adhesive layers– 30-35 centimeters.
3. If the unevenness is large(up to 40 millimeters), then two layers of gypsum board are created: the first is strip (strips of 10 centimeters each), the second is solid, undivided sheets of plasterboard are used.

For this method, gypsum boards with a thickness of no more than 12 millimeters are used. The height of such a structure can be 3 meters.

Cladding gypsum board walls using a frameless method is used:

1. In loggias, terraces, bathrooms and restrooms, in showers and swimming pools, in basements and on, for the design of slopes of door and window openings.
2. In niches where communications pass, in corridors and halls non-residential premises, lobbies, foyers.

The frameless fastening method can be used in cases where the unevenness of the wall does not exceed 2 centimeters in some places. It is used on various surfaces: concrete, brick, block; under certain conditions, timber walls can also be covered with plasterboard.

The advantages of this method include:

1. Economy. No need to purchase metal profiles, guides, fastening materials.
2. Less time is required to create the skin. Because creating a frame is not required.
3. During operation, it is much less likely that cracks will appear at the joints, the wall turns out to be smoother and more reliable.
4. Possibility of installation with your own hands.

The disadvantages include the fact that this option can only be used on flat surfaces. If the unevenness is large, you will have to first prepare the wall: level it using beacons. This is a rather labor-intensive process that not everyone can do on their own.

With this wall decoration it is quite difficult to install communications inside. In addition, there are few insulation options with this design. Most often, polystyrene foam is used, which not everyone likes because it is not environmentally friendly.

Methods for fixing material to the wall can be as follows:

1. Using glue.
2. Using gypsum putty.

Preparing the walls

Preparing the foundation - the very first and important stage surface decoration.

It includes the following steps:

1. Cleaning the surface of old coating, dirt, dust. Surface requirements:
   • absence of major defects or deformations;
   • strength;
   • the wall should not be frozen or wet;
2. Wall primer. This is necessary in order to increase the adhesion of parts to the surface during installation.
3. Determining and measuring the depth of wall irregularities. This is done using a building level, which is applied to the surface, or a plumb line. Depending on the value of these parameters, the method of performing the work is selected.
4. The wall is marked, that is, those places are highlighted to which the gypsum boards will be glued.
5. Locations are established electrical wiring , switches, sockets.
6. Cutting drywall sheets. To do this, the material is applied to the wall, leveled, cut into sheets required sizes. It is necessary to cut the sheet approximately 1 centimeter less than the height of the wall to create gaps.

DIY installation

The smoother the surface where installation is carried out, the more high quality drywall available.

Attaching drywall to the wall using a frameless method is easy to do yourself. It is easier and faster to do such work together. Before you begin installation, you should take care of purchasing materials and tools.

To carry out the work you need to buy:

• plasterboard sheets for walls 12.5 millimeters thick;
• gypsum powder mixture or glue;
• dilution container;
• electric jigsaw;
• rule;

Tools:

• roulette;
• level;
• plumb line;
• pencil;
• hacksaw;
• rail;

Step by step guide

If necessary, you need to pre-plaster separate sections of the surface or the entire wall.

After the preparatory work, we proceed to installation.

Glue method:

1. The glue is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions, which are located on the packaging. As a rule, about 20 liters are required to dilute a mixture of 30 kilograms ordinary water. The composition is measured on the scales, then poured required quantity liquid and mixes well. The consistency should be homogeneous, thick like sour cream.
2. The finished solution is distributed over the entire sheet of drywall as follows: first, marks are made in 4-5 columns, then up to 6 adhesive columns are created in a row along the entire sheet. How firmly the sheet will stick to the wall depends on the amount of glue applied.
3. Press the greased sheet tightly against the wall and level it. It is necessary to press down the sheet as hard as possible. For this purpose, a rail or wooden stand is used. After which the sheet must be left to dry.

It is necessary to leave small gaps at the bottom and top using gypsum putty:

1. The putty is spread. The instructions should be on the package with the dry mixture.
2. The drywall sheet is lubricated with the compound around the perimeter and in the middle. Further actions similar to glue method wall cladding.

This is how all gypsum boards are attached to the wall.

Because the glue mixture tends to harden quickly, it must be used promptly. It is advisable that the container be used within a maximum of half an hour. In this regard, it is recommended not to completely fill the entire composition, making fresh glue for each new sheet.

The final stage includes the following types works:

1. Places of joints and possible damage are smeared with glue or sealed with special tape (mounting tape), which is used for drywall.
2. Aligning corners. To do this, you can use perforated corners made of plastic or metal. Alignment is carried out after all the sheets are glued.

The corners are secured using mounting adhesive. The resulting protrusion, no larger than 1 millimeter in size, can be easily removed with a putty solution.

Advice! It is necessary to seal joints and corners when, as a quality finishing surface color appears.

Cost of work

Installation of drywall without frame for 1 square meter costs from 500 rubles. Exact prices can be found in construction company When applying, they are calculated taking into account all the nuances, in accordance with the project.

Installation may include following works: lining of pipes and communications, installation of heat and sound insulation, putty, priming of the surface for painting on gypsum board.

1. To increase the service life of drywall, after gluing it to the wall surface, it would be useful to secure the sheets with dowel nails. To do this, holes are created in the drywall along the perimeter, 40 centimeters in increments, and dowels are inserted into which nails should be driven. The head of the nail should enter the surface of the sheet.
2. Surface primer is required. It allows you not only to increase the adhesion of the material to the wall, but also to fill in irregularities that may not be noticeable at first glance.
3. After the glue has dried, seams and gaps near the ceiling must also be primed. The bottom gap can simply be removed under the baseboard. If desired, you can also install a ceiling plinth on top.
4. If using moisture-resistant cardboard, it is necessary to ensure that the material is fixed with the front side facing out, since they have some features in the structure that help prevent the sheet from getting wet and the appearance of fungus and mold.