DIY infrared heating element. DIY infrared heater - assembly and connection diagram

The rise in gas prices for heating homes during the heating season forces us to intensively search for an equivalent alternative. Folk craftsmen haven’t come up with anything! Answering the rhetorical question: “Why pay more?”, they found the use of infrared rays in their designs. And today, scrolling through the Internet, you can find a lot of different information on how to design an infrared heater with your own hands.

Any substance emits energy. This property, under given conditions, is used in infrared heating. Electromagnetic oscillations of a given frequency at a certain temperature heat the emitter, and it releases heat into the surrounding space. For the scheme to work, certain conditions must be met.

Possibility to connect to a 220V network

Availability of emitter. This may be an incandescent lamp of a certain design. Or a multilayer panel made of an alloy of a special composition. A metal thread is laid between its layers. By creating resistance to current, the filament heats up to a certain temperature, giving off heat to the lamp or layers of the panel. Such heat rays in the form of infrared range warm the surrounding space;

By the way: a panel radiator is applicable for wall and ceiling heating sources, while it consumes half as much electricity as its “brothers” with a different heating principle, and the spectrum of the emitted flux is in the “comfortable” limit of 5 - 15 microns.

Electrical connection - important stage making an IR heater

Reflector– an important component of an IR heating device. It reflects the emitted energy in the desired direction, gives it a certain shape, forming an active radiation zone. You can create a selected area in a room with comfortable specified parameters, but for this you need to choose the reflector correctly: not every material has high degree reflections, heat absorption occurs more often.

Note: you can check the reflective properties yourself using a piece of foil as an example. It is worth bringing the mirror surface close to the most sensitive area of the body, to the cheek, for example. The thermal effect is felt almost immediately. It can be felt by the skin, which is heated by the reflected thermal energy of the cheek body.

Thermal resistance ensures that the temperature created by the emitter is maintained at certain parameters.

Controller. If the operating parameters do not correspond to the specified ones, then the device reacts to this using the controller. Immediately, the current strength in the incandescent element is brought into compliance with the norm, automatically leveling the heating temperature.

Important: useful heat is obtained as a result of the conversion of electricity into heat in the form of infrared rays. The surrounding objects are heated, which then release the accumulated heat to the air space. Heat losses are minimal, device efficiency is high.

Types of IR heaters that you can make yourself

The simplest device is to install a small sheet on the radiator aluminum foil oriented to the room. Heat rays emanating from the radiator are reflected in the foil mirror and returned to the living space, without wasting energy on unnecessary heating of the walls.

Option No. 2

Other “homemade” people buy an infrared port and an incandescent coil. The emitter (spiral) is placed in a rectangular volumetric block with a connection to the electrical network. The port itself is connected directly to the heater. That's all, actually. During operation of the unusual device, the property of the infrared port is used to transmit information using the thermal range of waves, which forms the medium for their propagation.

Option #3

Another invention that deserves attention is that it requires:

Purchase two sheets of laminated paper measuring 1 m2, “epoxy” and graphite, a piece of wire (can be used) with a working plug.
Using zigzag strokes, treat the entire rougher side of the plastic, which will be connected to the surface, with a thick adhesive solution prepared using epoxy glue with the addition of graphite. Each of the strokes is nothing more than a graphite conductor with high resistance.

Glue both sheets together with graphite-treated sides using the same glue.
The static nature of the structure is achieved using a frame holding the sheets. Copper terminals are attached to the graphite conductor at its different ends.
Finally dried homemade device connects to the voltage regulator. The result is a completely effective, compact, mobile, inexpensive heater. If desired, you can place it on the wall or on the floor.
The ratio of the percentage composition of graphite in the adhesive solution directly affects the heating temperature, as does the thickness, as well as the length of the zigzag strokes. On average it is 65 °C.

This is not just glue, but an adhesive solution with graphite!

But! High quality insulation required to guarantee electrical safety and fire safety when operating the device.

Option No. 4

There is a place for this “baby” everywhere: in the garage and in household premises. All you need to make it is:

a flat, not yet discarded shoe polish box;
graphite (lump crushed to a powder form or extracted from unnecessary batteries);
clean river sand;
two wires;
fork.

Preparation method

The remaining cream is removed from the box and washed to a mirror-like state.
The prepared crushed graph is mixed 1:1 with river sand.
The graphite-sand mixture is poured into a tin container, filling it halfway.
A sample is cut out of tin according to the diameter of the round box.
The lead wire is attached to its edge using pliers and laid tightly on top of the layer.
The tin circle with the wire is sprinkled with another heaped layer of sand and graphite.
From above, the structure is very tightly sealed with a lid, creating excess pressure inside the container.
The body of the box uses a second wire to “contact” the network or car battery.
The element for efficient and simple heating is ready. It is very convenient that it burns out from overloads, according to by and large, nothing. And the device is easy to adjust: pressing or unscrewing the lid changes the power heating device: with more compression, more power. During strong heating, the miracle box begins to emit a red or orange glow. Its contents “sinter” and the efficiency of the device decreases. To restore the original parameters, it is enough to shake and loosen the graphite.

Is it worth starting this venture?

There is no limit to the inquisitiveness of the mind. By making an IR heater with your own hands, you get rid of a lot of seemingly unnecessary things and create something near you comfortable conditions life and work, acquire new skills, save on electricity and simply enjoy the results of your work.

For comfortable work in a garage or workshop during the cold season, it is not necessary to buy expensive oil or infrared heaters.

You can easily get by and replace them with regular incandescent or halogen bulbs. Moreover, when using simple lamps, you will also receive a lamp as a bonus.

Halogen lamp heater

The simplest stove is assembled using just one 1 kW halogen lamp.

To do this you will need three things:

Place this lamp inside the container on a brick and close it, so to speak, “the blower.”

The heating temperature of the surface of the walls with a container size of 400*400*600mm will reach up to 80 degrees. Maximum temperature heated floors and even then does not exceed 30C.

Eighty is definitely a bit much, so it’s better to take one 500W halogen or connect two in series at 1kW each. The heating of the stove walls will be optimal - 60 degrees.

To fix the lamp, use a special ceramic socket holder.

It's ceramic. The brick on which this “beast” lies heats up to 300 degrees!

As you understand, the wires for connection must be thermal.

If you open the “vent” of such a heater, the picture from the inside will resemble a miniature nuclear reactor, with one single fuel cell - a halogen lamp lying on a brick.

Moreover, due to the low power, it is all connected through a regular socket with a plug. You will be shocked how much heat this design can generate.

By the way, it is very convenient to dry clothes and shoes on it.

There is just one big BUT. This is the lifespan of such a light bulb in a confined space without normal conditions cooling. I can assure you that he will greatly disappoint you.

How much light and heat does a light bulb provide?

Therefore, let’s consider another more working one and durable design, assembled on the basis of simple incandescent lamps.

An ordinary light bulb with an incandescent filament is the most available source not only light, but also heat. Of its entire radiation spectrum, we see only a small part.

Everything else is hidden from us in the infrared region.

As an efficient light source with its efficiency of 3%, the light bulb is no good.

But if we consider it from the point of view of heat, then the efficiency is already approaching 100%.

How to increase the efficiency of the light? For example, you can increase the voltage.

However, at the same time, its lifespan will sharply decrease. She will live with you for literally a few hours.

But if you do the opposite, that is, reduce U=220V by half, this will sharply reduce the light output by five times. But at the same time, almost all the useful energy will go into the IR spectrum.

Of course, it will not increase, and its overall level will fall from its original values. However, the level of the visible spectrum will drop even more. The whole point here is that your assembly should primarily heat, not shine.

The most important and significant advantage of this is the increase in the life of the lamp to almost 1 million. hours (over a hundred years).

That is, you buy it once and you can use it for the rest of your life! How can you reduce the voltage at home without any regulating devices, like LATR?

Serial connection of light bulbs

Very easy. Simply connect two light bulbs of the same wattage in series and the voltage across each will be cut in half.

They will of course shine dimmer.

How will the power consumption of such a combination of light sources change? Measurements can be taken with a multimeter.

Let, for example, at a constant voltage of 240V, for two 100-watt light bulbs the current is 290mA.

Based on the formula for calculating power, we find that:

P=I*U=0.29A*240V=69.6W

As you can see, consumption has fallen. But at the same time, the heat dissipated per watt of power has increased.

Optimal heating power

To assemble a lamp heater, it is best to use 150W models. Just note that after the introduction of a law prohibiting the production of conventional incandescent lamps of more than 100W, they began to be sold under the name “heat emitters”.

With their sequential connection scheme, even two copies, you can immediately feel the radiated heat. At the same time, they do not blind the eyes.

The current in such a circuit at the same voltage will be 420mA. This means that two lamps consume about 100 W in total, and most of them are used for heating.

You can compare what power infrared heaters are sold for and what area they are designed for. The ratio for conventional models is 100W per 1m2.

U oil radiators, almost the same indicators.

That is, in any case, watts turn into heat. Only specialized infrared models will have more directed radiation to a specific point or area, while your homemade product will have a wider angle.

By the way, these 100 W/m2 are taken from SNiP for premises insulated according to all standards. This is the optimal power for all heaters in middle lane Russia.

For northern latitudes, including cold, uninsulated garages, the values will be higher. If, for example, the heat loss in a garage is 1000 W/hour, and you heat it at 300 W, then your temperature will never rise.

But if the ideal heat loss is close to zero, then 100 W will be enough to create a bathhouse inside.

This power also depends on the height of the ceilings (the average calculated one is up to 3 m).

Assembling a homemade infrared heater

Based on all this, we need to assemble our heater from light bulbs. Let's move on to practice.

If your work zone The area that needs to be heated is 3-4 m2, so assemble a heater with a power of 300 W.

This will require 6 lamps with a power of 150W. That is, three serial pairs that will produce 100W each.

They are assembled on a frame made of metal or aluminum corner.

Sources of light and heat in the frame should be placed according to the diagram below.

In this case, select the distance between adjacent bulbs such that you can easily replace a burnt-out bulb with a new one. Even after a hundred years.

A gap of 1 cm between the flasks will be enough for this. The frame parts are connected to each other with bolts or rivets.

Next, you will need to fasten two aluminum strips inside it, on which the reflector or reflector will sit. These strips will add rigidity to the entire structure.

Now the most important thing is to make the reflector correctly. The usual parabola shape is not very effective.

Models in the form of a biparabola cope much better with their responsibilities.
Here the whole difference is in the reflection of the rays, which in the second case for the most part do not bounce back into the lamp, but come out.

Aluminum cans are ideal as a material for manufacturing. Cut off the bottom and top of the jar.

And you unfold the walls and bend them in the middle. At the same time, leave a margin of 1 cm on one edge for another bend. You somehow need to connect the halves of two cans together.

1 of 2

You fasten them together with rivets. To avoid tearing the thin aluminum in this process, first place washers on both sides.

As a result, you should have a one-piece reflector made of 4 cans.

Well, don’t forget about the two stripes in the middle of the frame.

Now you need to insert the light bulbs themselves into this structure. At the same time, do not allow them to touch the reflector. There should be a minimum distance of 1.5-2 cm from it.

Here again aluminum will come to the rescue. Namely, thin strips nine centimeters long.

Do not make a mistake when marking the places where the cartridge is attached to the strip, otherwise you will not be able to bring the power wires inside.

Do not forget that each pair must be connected in series. Here is a wiring diagram for such an infrared lamp for six lamps.

Wires must have at least two insulations and be three-core.

The third vein is the earth, which is planted on the body.

The connection occurs via a two-key switch. Thus, the heater can have three powers.

When all the lights are on (both keys are on) or only part of them (middle or extreme).

For example, when you press the first key, the outer lamps light up.

The power dissipation will be 200W. When you press only the second one, the central ones are launched.

Here the power will be only 100W.

Well, if everything is together, then you will feel the full 300W heating immediately after switching on. It will feel like coming from a fireplace. At the same time, the light will not be too bright to blind your eyes.

Even through thin clothing, heat will penetrate to the body. If a miniature fan, like those used in power supplies, is directed at such a lamp from top to bottom, the effect of heat will be even stronger.

On infrared radiation this will have practically no effect, but will greatly increase convection heat transfer indoors. It will also reduce the local heating of the spotlight heating pad.

Such a lamp can be hung by punched tape and can be used to adjust the required angle of inclination.

What is the advantage of such heaters? Firstly, they heat up almost instantly after switching on. Secondly, they warm up exactly the place where they are directed, and not the entire cubic capacity of the room.

Four of these 500W floodlights are enough to keep you warm in the garage in winter.

Such heating will be quite expensive, about 10 rubles per hour. But you can turn them on only when necessary and do not heat the room in advance. You went inside, turned it on, and you immediately felt the warmth, instead of shivering for an hour, chattering your teeth.

Until relatively recently, an infrared heater was classified as a “miracle of technology.” Today it is a common device that is used in residential and public buildings, as well as in open areas. It even gets to the point where home-grown craftsmen, completely chilled in the garage, try to construct an infrared heater with their own hands. As they say, “from what happened.” Is this really possible? Let's find out in this article.

Operating principle

Unlike a conventional heater, an infrared heater does not heat the air in the room. It heats up objects in its path infrared rays. And they, in turn, share their heat with the air.

The main components of an infrared heater are:

Heating element-emitter.
Reflector (reflective part).

What to assemble an IR heater from?

To make your own reflector, use polished steel or aluminum. The reflector is designed to direct the radiation flow to the desired area.
The heating elements in an infrared heating device are lamps: quartz, carbon or halogen.

Differences between heater lamps, or which ones to choose

To understand for yourself personally what better than a lamp take to make an infrared heater with your own hands, let's look at some of their features:

The cost of devices with halogen lamps is lower than carbon and quartz lamps.
There is a myth that a quartz heater has a beneficial effect on people's health. This statement has nothing to do with the truth.
Despite all its cheapness, a halogen device has significant drawback: When it is working, the lamp lights up. Naturally, it is not suitable for either a child’s room or a bedroom.

Important! In addition to the reflector with the emitter, the infrared heater is equipped with a thermostat and a fire hazard sensor. The thermostat is designed to maintain the set temperature, and the sensor automatically turns off an overheated device.

Now, armed basic knowledge about the operation of infrared heating device, let's move on to making it ourselves.

DIY IR heater - instructions

To work you will need:

Reflector (made in the USSR in 19..some year).
Nichrome thread.
Dielectric made of fire-resistant material.
Steel rod.

Important! A plate made of glazed ceramic can serve as a dielectric.

Procedure:

Clean the old reflector from dust and dirt.
Check if it's intact power cord, plug, terminal connections for connecting the spiral.
Measure the length of the spiral that fits onto the cone of the device.
Cut the rod to the same length and thread a nichrome thread onto it. In this case, the winding pitch is 2 mm.
As a result of the last simple manipulation, you have a spiral. Remove it from the rod.
Place the spiral loosely, so that its turns do not touch, on the dielectric.
Connect the current from the network to the ends of the spiral.
Disconnect the heated spiral and place it in the groove from the ceramic reflector cone.
Connect the coil to the power terminals.

DIY infrared lamp made of glass and foil

Another option is how to make such a device yourself. And it is also not something overwhelming or difficult for the average home craftsman.

You will need:

The algorithm for assembling an infrared lamp with your own hands is as follows:

Clean the surface of the glass from dirt.
Light a candle and, moving the glass plates over the flame, smoke them evenly.

Important! The soot layer in the heater will act as a conductor. The layer of soot lies more evenly on cooled glass.

Using cotton swabs, make a “frame” about 0.5 cm wide around the perimeter of the glass.
Cut out 2 rectangles from aluminum foil the width of the conductive layer (the same soot). Foil rectangles will serve as electrodes in the future device.
Place the glass plate soot side up and apply epoxy to the surface.
Place foil over the edges of the plate so that the ends of the foil extend beyond the glass.
Cover the resulting “sandwich” with a second piece of glass, the smoked surface facing inward.
Glue the layers together, pressing them tightly together.
Seal the structure around the perimeter.
Measure the resistance of the conductive layer.

Important! The power of the device is calculated using the formula N = R x I x I, where:

N — device power, W.

R is the resistance value of the conductive layer, Ohm.

I - current strength, A.

If the obtained power value does not exceed the standard value, you can connect the structure to an outlet. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble everything and start all over again.

Infrared device made of laminated plastic

To make your own IR heater, you will need:

2 pieces of layered paper plastic(1 square meter).
Epoxy adhesive.
Graphite. It can be removed from batteries that have expired.
Copper busbar for terminals.
Network cord.
Wood for the frame.

The procedure is as follows:

Mix graphite and epoxy into a thick mass. This is a future conductive layer with high resistance.
Place the plastic piece on a flat surface (rough side up).
Apply a mixture of epoxy glue and graphite to the plastic using zigzag strokes.
Prepare the second piece in the same way.
By placing the plates together with the treated sides, glue the structure.
Make a wooden frame around the perimeter of the product.
Wait for the glue to dry.
As in the previous version, measure the resistance of the conductive layer and calculate the power.

Important! If the calculation turns out that the conductive layer has too low a resistance, make a new graphite-epoxy mixture with a large amount of graphite. If, on the contrary, the resistance is increased, the amount of graphite in the mixture must be reduced.

After obtaining the optimal result, you can connect the cord to the terminals and turn on the device.
If desired, you can equip the device with a small thermostat.

Simply and easily…

And, as they say, “for dessert,” a simple do-it-yourself heater made from an incandescent light bulb. Take a powerful incandescent lamp and place it in a case made of metal.

Important! The lamp, releasing heat, heats the metal, which, in turn, gives off its heat to the air and thus heats the room. Of course, such a primitive device is only suitable for small room as an additional source of heat.

Video material

These are just four simple ways to create an infrared heater with your own hands. In fact, there are much more of them. The question involuntarily arises: do you need it? There’s a lot of fuss, and it’s not a fact that everything will work out as it should. But:

Firstly, knowledge is never superfluous.
Secondly, you kill two birds with one stone. You get a useful device and get rid of a bunch of unnecessary junk.

Maybe it's worth a try?

The constant rise in prices for gas, which is used to heat private homes, in the cold season forces us to look for an equivalent alternative in terms of heat quality, but cheaper in operating costs.

What hasn't been invented since last years Russian folk craftsmen - homemade ones.

Most often, in order to do everything to pay less, they find use in their designs of infrared rays.

So it has currently accumulated a large number of information on how to design your own heater that would operate on infrared radiation.

How it works - operating principle and main elements

The power supply must be securely soldered - no twisting!

Absolutely any physical substance has the property of emitting thermal energy.

It is this postulate that is taken as the basis for heating a room with infrared rays. At a given frequency, electromagnetic oscillations at certain temperatures heat up the emitter, as a result of which it releases thermal energy into the space surrounding it.

But in order for the scheme to work in full mode, a number of conditions must be met.

One of them is the ability to connect directly to a 220 V network.

Firstly, there must be an emitter, which can be either a specifically designed incandescent lamp or a special multilayer panel, which is made of an alloy characterized by a special composition.

Between each layer of the panel a thin thread made of metal is laid. The thread, creating resistance to the electric current, heats up to the desired temperature and transfers heat to the panel. It is these heat rays in their infrared range that heat the room.

Such a panel emitter as a heat source can be fixed to the surface of walls and ceilings, while the spectrum of the emitted infrared flux is located in the range of 5-15 microns, which is considered comfortable for humans, while such heaters consume almost half as much electricity as heating devices , having a different operating principle.

The reflector is one of the main components heating device IR heating. Thanks to it, heat is reflected in a given direction and, acquiring a certain specific shape, thereby determining the most active radiation zone.

If desired, you can create indoors small area, which will have the most comfortable and preset parameters, but for this purpose it is necessary to select the right reflector, since not every material used is characterized by a high degree of reflection; most often it simply absorbs the generated heat.

Watch a video about what infrared heaters are:

If necessary, check how high the reflective properties of a particular material are, then you can use a small piece of ordinary food foil. The mirror surface should be brought to the surface of the skin and the thermal effect will not be long in coming.

Thermal resistance - it helps maintain the temperature created by the emitter under certain operating parameters.

The controller is used to check whether the specified parameters correspond to the real ones. If the data does not match, the device automatically adjusts the temperature to the required values.

Important: Useful heat is generated as a result of the conversion electrical energy into heat in the form of infrared rays. At the same time, surrounding objects heat up, which then release all the accumulated heat to the surrounding space. The efficiency of such devices is high, and heat loss is minimal.

Do-it-yourself heater based on the “reflection” principle

One of the most simple devices, will be mounted on the radiator central heating small sizes a sheet of food foil that will be directed towards the living space.

Those heat rays that emanate from the radiator are reflected in the surface of the foil onto the heated room, while no heat loss occurs due to unnecessary heating of the walls.

This method is the cheapest, because... costs only for foil and its fastening to the wall.

Heat transfer increases by about 10-20%.

Heater based on IR port and spiral

This option involves the purchase of an incandescent coil and an infrared port.

The prepared spiral must be placed in a block rectangular shape volumetric, which must have an electrical connection.

The IR port is connected directly to the finished heater from a block with a spiral.

At this point, the device is basically ready.

The operation of the device is based on the use of the ability of the infrared port to transmit thermal information into space using the infrared range of thermal waves, which form the medium for their propagation.

Heater based on graphite glue and laminate

Undoubtedly, you cannot ignore the heater for construction, which you need to stock up on two sheets of multilayer plastic with dimensions 1 * 2, epoxy glue, graphite powder, a piece of wire that would have a working plug.

First you need to prepare a dense adhesive solution based on a small amount of epoxy glue with exactly the same amount of graphite.

Then the resulting mass is applied in zigzag strokes to that side of the plastic plate, which is characterized by a rougher surface.

All these strokes become nothing more than graphite conductors, which have high resistance.

Both plastic blanks are glued together, with those sides that have graphite processing, using the same epoxy glue.

Important: To make the structure static, it is placed in a special frame that will hold the sheets together. To graphite conductors-smears with different sides The frames are secured with terminals made of copper.

After the device has completely dried, it can be connected to the standard electrical network. As a result, we should have a very effective, small-sized and inexpensive heater that can easily be mounted on both walls and floors.

The heating temperature will directly affect the ratio of glue and graphite in the adhesive solution, as well as the thickness and total length of the applied strokes. But as practice shows, the average temperature reaches 65 degrees.

Heater based on a shoe polish box

This option is especially compact and will always find a place for it in both domestic and utility rooms (garage, warehouse, etc.). To make it you need to prepare:

A flat plastic box will do old box for shoe polish;
Two wires;
Graphite powder;
River sand;
Electrical plug.

Heater manufacturing method:

The prepared container is thoroughly washed.
Graphite is mixed in a one to one ratio with clean sand. The resulting graphite-sand mixture is poured into the prepared container, exactly halfway.
According to the diameter of the container, it is necessary to cut a circle from tin, to the edges of which the lead wire is attached, after which it is tightly laid on sand mixed with graphite.
After which this tin blank is covered with the remaining amount of graphite and sand.
The tin container is tightly closed with a lid, so as to create independent excess pressure inside the container
The second wire of the container body is connected to the car battery or standard network.

That's basically it, you made an infrared heater with your own hands. It is very easy to regulate the heating by tightening the lid more, and the heating will be greater; by tightening the lid less, the device will cool down.

During very strong heating, the box will emit an orange or red glow, as a result of which its contents sinter, resulting in a noticeable decrease in the efficiency of the device.

To restore functionality, simply shake the box and loosen its contents.

Thanks to the development of production technologies, new materials are constantly appearing on the construction market. The choice is expanding all the time, and the same problem can sometimes be solved in several ways. So, for example, when there is a need to insulate a room, heated floor technologies will come to the rescue. Among them, infrared flooring is gaining increasing popularity. How to make such a floor will be discussed further.

general description

First, let's define what it is and what are its main performance characteristics. Infrared floor is a type of electric floor, which is heated by exposure to electric current on carbon radiating elements. On modern market building materials You can find several varieties of such floors.

Film. Perhaps the most common option is a film inside which the active elements are located. The heating intensity is monitored and controlled using a special thermostat included in the system.
Rod. Another type of heated floors, which is supplied to the market in the form of rod elements, inside of which there is a heating part.

Infrared floors do not have any fundamental differences in functioning, but their installation technologies and some operational characteristics will differ to some extent. By the way, let us note the most important characteristic qualities:

First of all, it is necessary to note the extreme ease of installation of the system. With basic skills and a minimum set of tools, almost anyone can handle the job.
Cost-effectiveness of the system. Thanks to the use of advanced technologies, the efficiency of the entire system is very high and allows you to get maximum results, with minimum costs energy.
Another quality that can be noted is the versatility of application. In general, infrared heating elements are intended for installation under the floor covering, but can also be used as additional measures for heating a room, in the form of mounting them on walls or even the ceiling.
Reliability also characterizes the system with positive side. At correct installation such a floor will perform its functions for many years.
Among other things, the system is devoid of open heating elements and, even in the event of failure, remains as safe as possible for humans.

But, as mentioned above, in order for the listed qualities to fully manifest themselves, the installation of the system must be carried out with the highest possible quality.

It’s probably impossible to say unequivocally which infrared floor is better. Both the core and roll version have their pros and cons.

Laying belt type in a room with a lot of heavy furniture, such as wardrobes, beds and other things, it is undesirable, since a large mechanical load can damage the heaters.

Installation technology

Speaking about the technology for installing infrared floors, it is worth noting that regardless of the manufacturing option, the main stages of work will differ minimally, so below we will consider the question of how to lay the strip manufacturing option. It should be said right away that it is better to divide the work into several stages and carry them out sequentially.

Preparation

As in all other cases, work should begin with preparation. Here special attention attention should be paid to the quality of the base. The fact is that, in accordance with the rules for installing film (and rod, too) floors, the maximum difference in height of the base should be no more than 3-5 mm per m 2. If necessary, it is necessary to level the surface using a leveling mixture or concrete screed in particularly critical cases. Among other things, the base must be clean.

Thermal insulation

After the base is ready, you need to lay a layer of thermal insulation. It is best to use foil roll material. Strips of the required length are laid on the surface and fixed with a stapler.

It is necessary to constantly ensure that there are no gaps between the sheets of insulation, and the joints should be taped.

Film floor installation

The film floor itself can be laid on top of the thermal insulation layer. To do this, strips of the required length are cut from a roll of material and laid in the same way as insulation. The task is not difficult, but damage to the contacts or the active element must not be allowed, so all work must be carried out in strict accordance with the attached instructions.

After laying the heating film itself on the surface, you need to make the initial connection of the system, that is, connect the wires to the terminals on the film. For this purpose, the design provides special clamps. It is worth adding that in order to ensure that, following the results of the work, the wires do not protrude above the general surface of the floor, before laying them, special grooves are cut out in the insulation, along which the wires are laid.

All connection points must be insulated.

It is necessary to connect the heated floor through a special thermostat.

As a rule, the work does not cause any difficulties. It is necessary to connect the wires to the contact points on the regulator in accordance with the instructions. If everything is done correctly, the heating will be smooth and uniform.

Laying the finishing coating

The final stage of work is the installation of the finishing flooring. In this case, you should be careful not to damage the connection points or active heating elements. At this point, the work will be completed, and the film heated floor can be considered ready.

In conclusion, we can add that installing an infrared warm floor system will make staying in the house more comfortable and safe, which is especially important if there are small children in the house who spend a lot of time on the floor. And adults will also enjoy the comfort.

Video

This video shows how to install an infrared film floor:

And this detailed instructions for laying an infrared rod floor: