Production of sawdust concrete - composition and proportions for blocks and monolith, reviews from builders. Do-it-yourself arbolite blocks: making arbolite blocks yourself at home Technology of arbolite block production

Two kilometers from Lake Naroch, 20 years ago a unique type of settlement appeared for Belarus - the ecological village of Druzhny. By its very existence, it proves that high-quality and budget housing can be built from the most simple materials: wood, straw, wood chips and clay. And this option for solving housing issues in rural areas may well become an alternative to construction in agricultural towns.

Helped the whole world

The Germans, who first visited our country in the early 90s, were so impressed by the scale of environmental and economic problems that they came up with the idea of ​​helping families who lived in contaminated areas move to more favorable areas of Belarus.

A group of German volunteers began building the first houses in Druzhny on Naroch in 1993. The authorities in the Myadel district of the Minsk region allocated land for a settlement for displaced people. There was also an agreement with the chairman of the local collective farm, who wanted to attract labor to your farm.

When choosing materials for construction, the Germans were guided by their environmental friendliness and availability in this area. Given the shortage of everything that existed at that time, including building materials, there was practically nothing to choose from. But there was wood, straw and clay in abundance.

Yuri Suprinovich

On the Belarusian side, the International Charity also took part in the “Home Instead of Chernobyl” project public association"Ecohouse" (in 2014 it was renamed "EcoBuilder"). Its representative Yuri Suprinovich says that then, based on the goals of the project and the existing material base, it was necessary to choose a construction technology that would allow people to build a house without any special skills. As a result, they chose German as the model frame house with filling the walls with a mixture of straw and clay.

Volunteers from Germany came to build the first houses. Among the German volunteers there were specialists who performed two tasks: they supervised the construction and taught the technology to others: now there are probably more specialists living in Druzhny adobe construction than in the entire country.

At first they built houses with straw filling, later they switched to wood chips: It turned out to be easier to work with, the material itself is just as cheap and accessible.

The combination of free volunteer labor and the low cost of “grassroots” building materials made it possible to build 14 houses before the official opening of the eco-village in 1997 (now there are 31).

In order to move from a radiation-contaminated area to a clean one and receive free new house, applicants were selected. One of the main criteria is the desire to make a labor contribution to the construction of the village.

“My family and I moved here from the Khoiniki region in 1994,” says Valentine, one of the very first eco-settlers. — We saw an advertisement in the newspaper that said that a German charitable organization would build houses on Naroch for resettlers from contaminated areas, and there would be a selection among those wishing to move. We didn’t really count on anything, but we wrote a letter. Two weeks later the answer came: come.

Valentina's family was among the first eight to qualify. But only two of them remained here. The rest got scared and refused to move.

“They can be understood,” says Valentin. — We arrived here on March 20, 1994, and here was an open field. Now there is a road here, trees, houses, but then it was slush, dirt, a collective farm... Many people looked at all this and immediately left. Because it was unclear whether there would be a kindergarten, a school, a store, or a job. It was a difficult moment. This is not the same as coming to Minsk and being given an apartment.

The settlers first built their own houses, then helped others. The collective farm paid them wages as builders.

— We were told that houses would be built from clay and straw. We thought that the straw would only be for the bundle, and the rest would be clay to make it stronger. But everything turned out wrong. First, clay and water are mixed in a concrete mixer to form “sour cream.” It was poured into a dug hole 3x3 m and straw was added, which was brought by the collective farm. And all this was mixed and trampled underfoot. Then the straw in clay was thrown onto wooden flooring so that it flows around and wilts. Then it was sent to the formwork, fixed to wooden frame, compacted. Right away, to be honest, I didn’t believe that something normal would turn out. But when they removed the formwork, I saw that the walls were smooth and neat. And now 22 years have passed and nothing has rotted. I also remember that everyone was afraid that the mice would stretch the straw. But they are not in the walls. It's nonsense that someone will gnaw through the passages there.

Clay and straw inside the wall of one of the first houses: after 20 years it’s dry inside, there are no mice

Valentin said that they worked side by side with the Germans at the construction site. Our people were greatly impressed by their technical equipment.

— In 1993, German carpenters arrived, and they had so many tools for all occasions. We had never seen anything like this: circular saws, tools for tenoning frame parts... We were afraid to take them in our hands right away, before that we had only used axes and hand saws knew. Then we saw the “Calm” chainsaw for the first time!

Valentin says that he did the first renovation two years ago - he repaired the facade.

Previously, facades were covered with clapboard. Now many people are changing it - after 20 years the paint has peeled off, and in some places the wood has begun to rot. But the walls themselves are in excellent condition. They are insulated and plastered. In the first houses, clay plaster was applied without reinforcement, so it cracked in some places - I greased it up, and we moved on. I decided not to change the staircase that the Germans made for me, even though it creaks. Back then, in the 90s, there was no dry lumber to be found, so it was assembled from damp boards. Well, it creaks, but it's not scary. The second floors are minimally insulated - only 15 cm of straw and clay between the rafters. I had to add additional insulation over time. But this is in our first houses. They are already building now warm attics. But what no one in the village complains about is the dampness. In our houses there is always normal humidity - even if it’s heated or kept in the cold.

German pellet boiler

By the way, in almost all the houses of the displaced people, in addition to a modern water heating system, there are also stoves. Just in case.

Now the houses in the village are heated natural gas. But the public house, which is also an “office” and a part-time creative house, is heated by a pellet boiler with automatic feeding. Valentin says that 3 tons of pellets are purchased for the season. The heating system has solar collectors that work in tandem with the boiler. Thus, both the house is heated and hot water always is.

There are not as many children in the village as there used to be - they grew up and left. But the local children's art center is not idle. Valentin says that many families took in adopted children. Clubs have been organized for them.

Ecovillage public house

Now Valentin is looking after common house, serves wind power plants, which stand on a hill next to the village. He has no plans to leave Druzhnaya.

— The houses became our property after 10 years; before that we had no right to sell them. It was believed that if you lived here for so many years, it means you have settled down. Most of the settlers stayed here. And I settled in, although I sometimes go to my homeland. I can say that here better people live. There are a lot of drunks there, there is practically no work...

There are houses for sale in the village of Druzhnaya, but there are no options for pennies.

— The houses here are excellent - all communications, large plots, near Naroch. A neighbor recently sold it to someone as a dacha for $26,000.

New settlement in Stary Lepel

A similar settlement appeared in the Vitebsk region - in the village of Stary Lepel.

“Representatives of local authorities came to Druzhny - they liked this model of settlement, and in 2001 they invited them to their place and allocated a site,” says Yuri Suprinovich. — By this time, the legislation had already changed, new requirements for the energy efficiency of buildings under construction had appeared. Therefore, new houses are already additional insulation built.

All our built public buildings- an outpatient clinic in the village of Zanaroch and a social center for the rehabilitation of disabled people, - heated by pellet boilers and solar collectors. This increases the initial costs, but with further use they pay for themselves.

Photo from the website www.oekodomstroj.by

Yuri says that mineral wool or expanded polystyrene are not environmentally friendly materials, and there were no others on our market at that time. Focused on Europe. There were already options made from flax fiber, reed, cork, hemp, and ecowool.

As a result, they decided to make insulation from reed - there is plenty of it in the country. In addition, it is a constantly renewable resource. This is how the first Belarusian production of reed boards appeared.

“We learned to harvest reed ourselves and now we use it as thermal insulation for our houses. The most interesting thing is that we didn’t come up with anything new - even in the USSR there was a building material called “reed”. Today, the EcoDomStroy enterprise provides reed mats not only to our facilities, but also sends them for export and uses them for insulating houses according to orders from the population.

Reed is harvested in winter on the ice on Lake Naroch. There is a special self-propelled harvester for this. Locals They also earn extra income by harvesting and selling cane to the producer.

Reed slabs are produced on special German machines. They are very old, manufactured in 1948.

“I know what I’m building”

Nowadays they build from wood chips and clay not only for social programs. They can also be ordered privately. One of these houses is now being built on the banks of the Vileika Reservoir.

Its owner, Vyacheslav Makushinsky, heads the Belarusian-German society “Children’s Rehabilitation and Health Center “Nadezhda”. He told the site that he is well acquainted with the technology and, in his opinion, it has proven itself well.

Vyacheslav Makushinsky, head of the Nadezhda HICC

— I first became acquainted with this technology during the construction of two guest houses in the institution that I manage. We built the first house frame technology with filling the walls with ecowool, the second - with clay and wood chips. So I already have practical experience and construction and operation of such houses. When I decided to build myself, the choice was predetermined. It was important to me that the materials were as natural as possible. Ecowool too natural material, but already transformed. And clay, wood chips, wood for the frame - all these are exclusively natural materials.

Now the builders are busy filling the walls with a mixture of wood chips and clay. It is mixed in a large concrete mixer - up to 0.8 cubic meters can be prepared in it at a time. The mixture is transported using a construction wheelbarrow to the workers, who pour it into the removable formwork and tamp. A total of 7 builders are involved in the construction site.

Unlike standard frame houses, which are built from dry lumber of a small section; timber is used for these frames natural humidity with a cross section of 120×120 mm. After they are filled external walls and the roof has been installed, partitions will be built inside from ceramic bricks. After that construction works will stop until July next year: by this time the house should dry out and the wood chips should shrink. That is, such a frame house cannot be built in one construction season.

For the construction of this house of 130 square meters, without attic floor, it took 25 cubic meters of wood chips. The clay was “mined” right on the site when they were digging a hole under autonomous septic tank. At first glance, the technology is simple and looks attractive in terms of financial costs: clay and wood chips are much cheaper than gas silicate.

“If a person wants to save money on building a house, then he needs to do a lot himself or with the involvement of volunteers - relatives, friends,” says Yuri Suprinovich. “Then the benefit is really obvious, since the wages for construction workers will be practically zero. If you invite a construction company, then the price of a house made of wood chips and clay will not be cheaper, and maybe even more expensive traditional house. During construction there is a lot of manual labor, and it is not cheap.

Knowledge and experience can be obtained completely free of charge. It is enough to volunteer to build such houses.

Yuri Suprinovich says that compared to agricultural houses, the construction of which was financed by agricultural enterprises, houses using German technology were somewhat cheaper. And this is without saving on the quality of finishing and the level of equipment with internal engineering systems. For example, a ready-to-move-in house of 130 square meters in Stary Lepel cost approximately 50 thousand dollars (without landscaping of the surrounding area).

Wood concrete, otherwise known as wood concrete, has unique thermal insulation properties, thanks to which it is successfully used in the construction of houses.

This material should not be confused with sawdust concrete, the production of which uses sawdust and sand. In the case of obtaining the material in question, wood chips for wood concrete are made from wood waste, since this is the most cost-effective due to the low cost and availability of metalwork waste, the block itself can be produced with your own hands.

Wood concrete composition

This material is endowed with unique thermal conductivity properties due to its components. Like all concrete blocks, it contains a binder in the form of cement; in most cases, Portland cement grade M400 or M500 is used in the production of this material.

The main filler, occupying almost 90% of the volume of the material, is wood chips.

Chemical additives can account for 2-4% of the total mass concrete block. They increase its strength and, when combined, form compounds with the sugars present in the wood.

In some cases, sand and slaked lime are added to it.

The water used for diluting the building composition is poured into the solution warm, its temperature should be +15 0 C. If it is less than this value, the setting speed of the cement composition will be lower.

The exact proportions of the components of wood concrete depend on the chosen brand.

Chips used for wood concrete

This wood material In the production of wood concrete, several types of loka can be used. But not any chips can be suitable for this process, but only those that comply in geometry and dimensions with GOST.

Wood chips must be needle-shaped and fit into the following dimensions:

• length 15-25 mm;
• thickness 2-3 mm;
• width 10-12 mm.

To prepare it yourself, you need to use special chipping machines, which a short time are capable of processing various tree knots and tops, waste from the wood processing industry and slabs into chips. Most often used for making wood chips coniferous trees

: pine, spruce, fir, birch and aspen have also proven themselves well, but beech and larch should not be used.

Sometimes crushed tree bark and needles are used as wood chips, but they are mixed together with the main filler. Before use, the selected wood material must undergo antiseptic treatment

, it is also freed from water-soluble substances, which can reduce some of its performance characteristics. If you have nowhere to get it required tree

, then you can use hemp or flax bonfires, rice straw, or cotton stalks. Before using flax seeds, you need to soak them in milk for two days or leave them in the air for a long time, about 4 months. After production or purchase, wood chips must be sifted and cleaned of dirt and bark. Then it needs to be dried and treated with silicate glue or calcium chloride to make it plastic. To reduce drying time you need to apply

liquid glass

, but the finished blocks in this case turn out to be more fragile.

Purchase of wood chips and wood for it

Raw materials for the production of wood chips can be found in forestry and an agreement on the purchase of a certain volume will be agreed upon; the cost of transporting it will fall on the shoulders of the buyer, and if you purchase wood from private companies that are intermediaries, then delivery will be included in the cost of the material.

The wood chips themselves can be purchased from private companies that have purchased the appropriate equipment and produce them for sale. Or you can purchase the necessary chipping machine and make wood chips with your own hands; it will be much more economical. Do-it-yourself production of wood chips for wood concrete and equipment. Chips can be made from wood, which is purchased “for future use” and stored in a place protected from weather precipitation, as well as from plumbing and forestry waste.

The most important attribute for obtaining wood chips is chipping machines, also called wood chippers. They come in several types, and each one works slightly differently. You can purchase machines:

• hammer;
• drums;
• disk.

The final choice will depend on production volumes, because you can set up the process of producing wood chips with your own hands, not only for your own needs, but also for sale; this type of activity will quickly pay for itself, since such material is in great demand not only in construction, but also for heating homes , and even for landscape design.

Before purchasing any of the above types of devices, you need to choose a location for its installation, consider free access to the loading window of the device, and also how the wood chips flying out of the device with enormous force will be collected. Many people miss this point, and fine material scatters throughout the production site. Some people set aside a small hangar for it and, after stopping the machine, collect the resulting material with a shovel.

Hammer crushing machines

Such crushers come in single-shaft and double-shaft types, for home production The first type of apparatus is sufficient. This rotary device, which contains hammers and chippers in its core. The unit has a special loading hopper. You need to put thin logs prepared in advance into it, it is better to make them long or purchase them, this will secure the process, otherwise if you handle a short piece awkwardly, there is a high risk of injury.

When wood enters the device, it passes between the hammers and separating plates, is split by impacts, and then sifted through the grate holes into the outlet compartment. The size of the chips will depend on the size of the sieve cells; its maximum size usually does not exceed 6 mm.

Disc chippers

Some of their models have adjustable knives, due to which you can change the size of the resulting chips.

They are designed for processing any forest, including round timber, the timber of which must be loaded into a separate window, where it, falling on the knives, is pulled deep into the device and splits. The maximum diameter of the log is 10 cm.

Drum chippers

You can recycle not only wood, but also waste furniture production, sawmills. Models of such chip cutters are equipped with a large loading hopper into which branches and logs need to be fed, they are self-retracted into the device, and after passing through the drum with double-sided sharpening knives located on it, they receive chips required sizes. Small models have one wheel to make the device easier to transport.

To simplify the process of producing wood chips with your own hands, you can make an entire line that will consist of a wood chip cutter, a chain conveyor and a debarking drum.

The operating principle of such a system is simple:

1. raw materials are loaded into the machine to produce chips;
2. at the exit, the finished chips enter the conveyor;
3. the device delivers material to the debarking drum;
4. After achieving the required cleanliness, the contents of the drum are unloaded onto a chain conveyor, which delivers the chips to the storage tank.

Human participation in this process is minimal.

The process of obtaining wood chips for making wood concrete is not complicated, if you first allocate a place for installing equipment and select it for a specially designated place. The material is loaded manually, to protect yourself it is better to use long workpieces, and if you use a large bunker, you can load smaller raw materials using a shovel.

Guided by the postulate “if you want it done well, do it yourself,” many people strive to build a house with their own hands. The question arises: from what material? The leaders of the construction market immediately come to mind: concrete, aerated concrete, foam concrete, brick and wood. But there is a material about which one can say “well forgotten old” - this is wood concrete. And the idea of ​​making wood concrete with your own hands is generally great, since it is in no way inferior to the above-mentioned building materials, and in some cases even surpasses them.

What is wood concrete made of, its advantages

Arbolit is lightweight concrete, which has a coarse-grained structure. It is also called wood concrete, since wood waste (chips, sawdust, shavings) takes up about 90% of its composition. In addition to wood chips, the composition of wood concrete includes cement (a binding component) and chemical additives. The advantages of this material are obvious:

• It has high strength to bend;
• retains heat well;
• environmentally friendly;
• practically does not burn;
• resistant to low temperatures;
• not susceptible to mold;
• absorbs noise well;
• any building materials adhere perfectly to its surface;
• has low weight;
• its use saves labor costs during installation;
• there is no need to use special equipment;
• when using it there are no problems with the foundation;
• shrinkage of the house does not cause deformation of the walls;
• low cost.

Options for constructing an arbolite structure

Building a house from wood concrete with your own hands is not so difficult. The main thing is to decide on the choice of method for constructing the walls. There are two options:

• the first, using wood concrete blocks, made with your own hands at home or purchased in specialized stores;
• the second, using technology that uses monolithic wood concrete.

That is, the projects are different, but the building materials are the same.

Important! It should be remembered that such material can only be used for low-rise construction (no more than 2-3 floors).

How to make wood concrete blocks on your own

The site for the production of such blocks can be personal plot or garage.

Preparatory stage

First of all, we purchase wood waste from the nearest sawmill (minimum chip size 4.0 x 5.0 x 0.5 cm). A smaller one is not suitable, since when mixed with cement, the relevance of using this component disappears. Next we do this:

• we put wood chips under a canopy and leave it there for 2-3 months;
• treat with lime dissolved in water (2 kg per 120 liters of water);
• periodically mix the waste (2-3 days);
• leave to dry completely;
• mix the wood concrete solution.

Components and proportions of the mixture

To prepare 1 m2 of mixture you will need the following components:

• 300 kg of pre-treated organic filler;
• 300 kg of cement;
• about 400 liters of water;
• 20-30 kg of modified chemical additives.

You can prepare the mixture in a concrete mixer or any suitable container (for example, in a trough).

Preparing the mold for filling

To make the mold we use wooden boards, which we cover or sheet metal. We cover the bottom with linoleum. In order to ready product It was easily removed from the mold; we recommend that the design include handles.

Advice! It is recommended to moisten the mold with water before filling it with the solution.

Production of wood concrete blocks

The manufacturing technology is quite simple:

• pour wood chips and modified chemical additives into the container;
• pour in water (not all of it, just enough to cover the waste);
• mix everything well;
• add cement and remaining water;
• mix thoroughly again;
• fill the form with the solution (leave 3-4 cm from the top edge unfilled);
• compact;
• keep the block in the mold for 24 hours;
• remove the block from the mold and leave it under a canopy for 2-3 weeks.

House made of arbolite blocks

Construction of a building such as arbolite house begins with design and technical documentation.

Design

Documentation for the construction of any private house, which includes not only a building plan, but also information about the foundation, the materials used building materials, connectivity to communications, must be agreed upon and approved by the relevant authorities.

On a note! Designing a building made of wood concrete is not much different from a typical plan for building a house made of expanded clay concrete.

Foundation construction

Due to the fact that wood concrete has the advantage of being light weight, you can choose absolutely any foundation for your house: on piles, on slabs, strip or columnar. Let's say we are building a house on strip foundation. Work order:

• mark the dimensions of the foundation;
• We sample the soil to the required depth;
• We lay a layer of a mixture of sand and crushed stone on the bottom;
• compact it and spill it with water;
• install reinforcing elements;
• we install wooden formwork;
• pour sand-cement mixture inside the formwork;
• after hardening, lubricate the foundation with bitumen and lay two or three layers of waterproofing (for example, roofing felt);
• the surface limited by the foundation is covered with a mixture of sand and crushed stone and tamped;
• fill with a layer of concrete (more than 50 mm).

Base

We carry out this part of the structure using brickwork 40-50 cm high. The main function of the plinth is to protect wood concrete blocks from the harmful effects of water.

We build walls

The technology for constructing walls from arbolite blocks is similar to the process of constructing walls from some other blocks (aerated concrete, foam concrete, expanded clay concrete) and is very similar to brickwork. We lay out the blocks in a checkerboard pattern, in rows, starting from the corner. We check the degree of vertical deviation using a level. To fasten the blocks we use cement-sand mixture. After installing three rows, we take a break for 24 hours to allow the bonding solution to dry completely.

Advice! To prevent quick removal moisture from the mixture, we recommend moistening the blocks before laying.

Recommended wall thickness for two-story house– 300 mm, and if higher – 400 mm. The thickness of the walls may be less (for example, 200 mm) if later use is planned heat-insulating materials or external cladding. But remember: it’s warmer where the walls are thicker.

It is not necessary to reinforce walls built with wood concrete. But if you want to increase the strength of corners, junctions of walls, doors and window openings, you can apply reinforcing elements.

Interfloor ceilings

If you have restrictions in cash, then as overlaps not a bad option is wooden beam. If finances allow, then appropriate reinforced concrete slabs or metal channels.

Roofing and rafter installation

Algorithm for installing rafters and installation roofing material for buildings made of wood concrete is the same as for buildings built from other building materials.

Important! Before installing the rafters, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing on the wood concrete blocks.

External and internal finishing

Any materials and methods are used for finishing. Finishing work can be produced immediately after construction is completed or even during the process.

This video will help you how to build a house correctly:

Features of monolithic construction

To build a monolithic house, you need to study installation technology monolithic walls, and other stages of construction are similar to the process of building a house from blocks.

The technology for constructing monolithic walls is very similar to conventional concreting: formwork is also constructed (height - maximum 600 mm), reinforcement is made, wood concrete is poured with a layer of 500 mm (no more). After this, everything is compacted and dries for 3-4 days. Then the formwork is lifted up in order to pour the next layer.

House from monolithic wood concrete in detail - watch the video:

In custody

It becomes clear that building a house from wood concrete with your own hands is not particularly difficult, and knowing all the nuances of making such blocks, you can build a very warm and high-quality house.

Today the market for insulation materials is filled with a large number of different materials, ranging from mineral wool and ending with extruded polystyrene foam. However, even expensive materials do not guarantee complete heat retention. Most of specialists in this field began to return to long-known, but lost popularity, methods of thermal insulation of buildings. In this article we will talk about how sawdust insulation is carried out.

Types of sawdust

Sawdust is small particles of processed wood that are obtained from sawing. In appearance they look like small dust.

Sawdust can be purchased in different fractions from 5 mm to 3 cm. The length depends on the technological process of the woodworking enterprise, namely on what type of tools is used in each specific case.

This material is environmentally friendly. In addition to low cost, sawdust has many other advantages, for example, excellent thermal insulation and sound-absorbing qualities, as well as a small specific gravity material. Mainly, sawdust is created from durum varieties timber such as spruce, pine or ash.

Ceiling insulation with sawdust

It is necessary to insulate the ceiling in a private house from any material, both brick and foam blocks. Because it is through the ceiling that significant heat loss occurs. Average heat loss through the ceiling is 20%. From an economic point of view, the most profitable is insulating the ceiling with sawdust.

Please note that laying wood products is a labor-intensive task. Before you begin installation, you need to do a lot preparatory work. First of all, such work is aimed at protecting against fire, because wood in any form is extremely flammable. It is flammable and different for a long time combustion.

What materials and tools may be needed:

• sawdust of small and large fractions
• sand, clay or slag
• lime and copper sulfate (you can take boric acid)
• substrate. For this purpose, you can use corrugated cardboard or any other breathable materials with good vapor permeability.
• sealant and foam
• fire retardant and antiseptic for wood. These compounds are necessary if the ceiling boards are not covered protective material from mold and mildew, fire
• construction stapler and staples for it.

Work should begin with protecting the ceiling beams and boards from possible adverse factors. More often, quality buildings built from processed timber. However, if this procedure was missed for some reason, then it is imperative to carry it out now.

Wooden elements must be protected comprehensively, and the following sequence must be observed:

• An antiseptic is applied first, which prevents rot and protects against insects
• Next come fire-bioprotective agents that increase resistance to fire and high temperatures.
• Still others use water repellents to prevent moisture from entering the wood structure. In addition, such products protect the wood from leaching of previously applied solutions.

To achieve higher efficiency, it is worth purchasing all drugs from the same manufacturer.

After carrying out the protective work, you need to seal all seams and joints with foam and sealant. In addition to the cracks in ceiling Any other holes that may be present in the roof structure must also be sealed. This is necessary so that the insulating material does not come into contact with precipitation or strong winds, which can lift the insulating layer. Do not forget to trim the protruding parts of the foam at the same level as the ceiling beams, otherwise there will be voids in these places through which heat will escape.

Next, you can lay a backing, which is needed to prevent small dust from sawdust from falling off the ceiling. This dust can become a source of additional dust in the house. The substrate must have vapor-permeable qualities. If there are no such qualities, then warm air and steam, rising upward, will remain between the boards and materials, and will cause additional condensation. As a result, mold may form due to excessive humidity. As a substrate, you can use any cardboard, for example, from old packaging boxes. The main thing is that it must be completely dry.

Clean the ceiling boards from dirt and dust and place cardboard sheets on them in several layers. Lay the underlay overlapping by 15-30 cm to prevent sawdust from getting into the seams. Now you will need a stapler, with which you need to fasten all the joints of the material.

Sawdust should be purchased dry, without foreign odors. They should be treated in advance with fire retardant and antiseptic compounds. After the mass has dried, you can add 10% lime (fluff) and a small amount of copper sulfate(or drills). All this needs to be mixed well.

There are several basic methods for installing thermal insulation from sawdust. They can be poured dry or mixed with cement and diluted with water. Sawdust can be poured either in pure dry form or mixed with cement and diluted with water.

With the dry method, sawdust is poured in two layers:

• large fraction or shavings. This layer should be 10-15 cm thick. It must be compacted well.
• the smallest fraction. The second layer should have the same thickness as the first. And it also needs to be compacted well.

In addition, slag, sand or clay can be placed on top of the sawdust. These materials will save your sawdust from rodents and mold development.

In order to insulate the ceiling using the wet method, you need to buy sawdust that was made at least a year ago. These sawdust will be a little damp. However, check that they are free of mold.

Ratio of chips, water and cement: 20:3:2. The mixture should be made in small volumes because it dries quickly. The resulting solution must be poured between the floor beams onto a substrate or a layer of sand and compacted. The layer thickness should be 5-10 cm. The solution hardens completely and you can move on it.

Sawdust, as insulation, is excellent for floor insulation. As in the case of the ceiling, sawdust for floor insulation must be pre-treated against rodents, insects and microorganisms. For this it is better to use special ready-made solutions.

The difference between floor insulation and ceiling insulation is that it is very difficult to add insulator that shrinks into the floor structure. Therefore, you need to choose a method in advance in which the mass will not dry out over time. In practice, this means that when insulating a floor, you should use not dry sawdust, but mixed with different components and subsequently hardening.

To prepare this mixture, you need to add gypsum or cement to the sawdust. Maintain the following proportions: 85% sawdust, 5% gypsum and 10% fluff lime or lime paste, which you need to take twice as much as dry lime. Don't forget that gypsum hardens very quickly, faster than cement.

There is no point in drying sawdust before mixing. On the contrary, if the sawdust is dry, it is worth adding a little water. The degree of readiness of the mixture is checked in your hands - if the lump does not crumble or spread, then the composition is ready.

If insulation is carried out in a building that has already been in use, then the existing flooring will have to be dismantled, the ceilings re-treated with an antiseptic and moisture-resistant mastic, and then a backing made of vapor barrier material or films.

The created mixture of sawdust is placed on the substrate and compacted well. The thickness of the layer should be approximately 10 cm. After compacting, the mass should be left to harden for about 2-3 weeks.

When using dry sawdust, you need to create a raised floor. All wooden parts must be coated protective equipment. Next, a subfloor made of boards is installed on the base, on which waterproofing is spread. Sawdust is poured on top of the hydraulic barrier. The layer should be 10 cm or more. Note that insulation with sawdust is not suitable if you are going to make a screed. Sawdust has low strength and causes serious shrinkage. Before installing the finishing coating, you need to leave the floor for 2-4 days. Over these few days, the sawdust will shrink by 2-3 cm and additional amounts will need to be added.

Be sure to keep in mind that if the sawdust is not given good waterproofing and ventilation (the gap between the finished floor and the layer of insulating material), then it may lose its heat-shielding qualities.

The most difficult task can be called insulating the walls, because this will require creating a frame. The frame must be filled with sawdust and compacted by hand. For installation in frame wall Coarse sawdust is suitable. When using a dry laying option, you should take care to thoroughly dry the sawdust so that there is no moisture left in them.

In the wet method, the mixture is prepared from wood shavings, lime, gypsum or cement, with the obligatory addition of antiseptics. The thoroughly mixed mass is moistened, poured into the prepared frame and compacted tightly so that the material does not sag. Gypsum, like cement, over time draws out all the available moisture and makes the mass monolithic.

Between the wall and insulation material must be laid down waterproofing material, having vapor-permeable qualities. The effectiveness of insulation and the level of shrinkage depend on the quality of the compaction and the density of the filling. If you do not tamp tightly, voids will appear and heat loss will begin.

The mixture is placed in layers 20-30 cm high and compacted. After this, a second similar layer is poured. And so they repeat the actions at all heights. The thickness of the insulation depends on climatic conditions. For example, in a house for seasonal residence a thickness of 15 cm is enough, but in a permanent building a thickness of 25-30 cm is needed. The frame is created from wooden boards section 100x50 mm.

The mass hardens in about 1-2 weeks, and finally sets in about a month. All this time it is worth monitoring so that the air humidity does not exceed 60-70%, and the temperature does not rise above 20-25 degrees. In addition, you need to regularly ventilate the room. After this, you can begin finishing work.

Houses insulated with sawdust are excellent option. They combine high heat retention rates with low operating costs.

House made of sawdust

In addition to insulation, sawdust is used for the full construction of buildings. However, buildings made of sawdust concrete are rare today. However, experts assure that sawdust concrete is a very promising material that allows you to build economical housing with decent performance indicators.

The manufacturing technology of such material involves the addition of binding components, for example, clay, lime, liquid glass. These additives reduce shrinkage phenomena and reduce the cost of modules. By adjusting the proportions of individual components in relation to total weight, you can change the density, porosity and strength of the final product.

Practice shows that optimal protection is achieved after lining, however, for example, a sawdust bath can be used without finishing.

The advantages of sawdust concrete include:

• thermal conductivity 0.20-0.30 W/m°C. A wall, 40.00 cm thick, is similar in warmth brick wall at 90 cm
• strength 20.0-50.0 kg/cm². This material perfectly resists deformation and shock loads, so it can be used for construction in areas with probable seismic activity
• easy processing. Modules can be milled, nailed, drilled, processed with a hacksaw and saw. Consequently, material consumption is reduced and there is almost no waste
• shrinkage 0.50 - 1.00%mm/m
• frost resistance - 25 cycles
• density 300-1200 kg/m³.

Among the shortcomings we note:

• moisture absorption. This disadvantage can be combated by treating the blocks with special compounds.
• impossibility of constructing multi-storey buildings
• not very attractive appearance without finishing.

Material calculation

Let's look at an example to find out the average number of blocks required to construct a building. For example, you need to build a house measuring 15x10 m, with a wall height of 3.00 m. The perimeter of the building will be the sum of the lengths of all sides = 15+15+10+10 = 50 m. The area of ​​the building is the perimeter multiplied by the height = 50*3 = 150 m². It is worth considering both the thickness of the masonry and the number of blocks per 1 m2.

Sawdust and cement blocks

Nowadays in construction you won’t surprise anyone composite materials. What only coexisted peacefully yesterday, today, thanks to new technologies, complements each other and mixes. And the result is materials that have acquired better quality characteristics from the mixed components, and even new properties altogether. These materials also include wood-cement. We know that when mixing solutions, fillers are needed. So why shouldn’t wood waste be used as a filler? The benefit is double: the waste will be used, solving the problem of its disposal, and the concrete will become much lighter.

Types of wood-cement materials

Since wood materials of different sizes and structures can be added as filler, and the addition of cement and other components can be in different proportions, there can be several wood-cement materials. Here are the main ones:

• - wood concrete;
• - fiberboard;
• - sawdust concrete;
• - CSP (cement particle boards);
• - xylolite.

And since differences in composition lead to differences in properties, materials with different performance characteristics. This allows the use of wood-cement materials in construction quite widely.

Arbolit

This is lightweight concrete made from crushed wood, water, chemical additives and a mineral binder, most often Portland cement. Crushed wood is obtained from both deciduous and coniferous trees; it is even possible to fill the concrete with flax or hemp husks, chaffed straw, and crushed cotton stalks.

The wood concrete production technology is as follows:

1. 1. Wood waste conveyors are fed into the chipping machine.
2. 2. The resulting chips are sent to a hammer crusher.
3. 3. A pneumatic conveyor feeds the resulting material into a vibrating screen, from where dust and fine crushed material go into the waste hopper, and large crushed material is sent for re-crushing.
4. 4. Required faction crushed grains enter the soaking bath, from there through a dispenser into the mixer.
5. 5. Through other different dispensers, cement, water and chemical additives are supplied to the mixer.
6. 6. The resulting mixture in molds is compacted with presses or vibratory compaction units.
7. 7. Forms with wood concrete are subjected to heat treatment and drying.

Use of wood concrete: partitions, slabs for floors, floors and coverings, large-format wall panels, wall blocks and so on.

Fibrolite

It consists of slabs made from wood chips and mineral binder. Chips longer than 35 cm and width 5-10 mm is ground into wool. Next, the technological process looks like this: the shavings are mineralized with potassium chloride, moistened and mixed with cement paste, and the slabs are pressed at 0.4 MPa. This is followed by heat treatment in curing chambers and drying.

Fiberboard is used both for the construction of walls and as a filler and insulating material in frame structures. It should be noted that when using fiberboard as wall material, it should be plastered, and where the humidity is high, it should not be used at all.

Sawdust concrete

This is lightweight concrete made from sand, Portland cement and sawdust. The technology is as follows: sawdust and small shavings are poured into the mixer, and water with mineral additives and Portland cement are also supplied there. All this is mixed, arranged into shapes and compacted. In order for sawdust concrete to harden faster, it is kept in thermal chambers for 24 hours at a temperature of 40-60°C.

Sawdust concrete is used for the production of panels and wall blocks, and is used to make clean floors.

Cement particle boards

They are the most commonly used wood-cement materials. For their productionwood shavings are used, then a cement-shaving mixture is prepared from it by mixing the shavings with water, cement and mineral additives, followed by dosing, molding, pressing and heat treatment.

Cement particle boards are frost-resistant, fire-resistant and bio-resistant. this justifies their use in prefabricated housing construction. Moreover, they can also be used for facade works and for interior decoration. They're not afraid high humidity, have proven themselves well in restoration work.

Have cement particle boards and disadvantages. High density (up to 1.4 t/m³) makes it difficult to lift slabs for cladding top floors houses without winches andforests They also have low bending strength and the slabs can break. At the same time, they are very resistant to longitudinal deformation, for this reason they are used to strengthen house frames.

Xylolite

It consists of magnesium binder, alkali-resistant pigments and sawdust, to which finely dispersed minerals: asbestos, marble flour, talc.

During production, sawdust is sifted through two sieves (the remaining on 1 sieve and sifted through the second in technological process does not participate). The binder is prepared in mixers: first magnesite is supplied, then coloring pigments, then magnesium chloride (as a hardener). This mixture is fed into another mixer, where it is mixed with sawdust for about 5 minutes.

Next, the slabs are formed under significant pressure (up to 10 MPa), at high temperatures (up to 95°C) and harden in curing chambers. Then, to ensure complete condition, the slabs dry in warehouses for two weeks. In order to increase water resistance, the slabs are impregnated hydrophobic compounds. Most often these slabs are used for the production of floors.

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