How to correctly cut corners on ceiling fillets. Miter cutting

All photos from the article

When someone first starts preparing corners, most often they have to ruin more than one meter of material. Alas, even a purchased miter box does not always help with this when the walls in the room are connected at an arbitrary angle, and not at a right angle.

Then you have to rely on your own eye or make a special template. Today you will learn how to make ceiling molding corners with and without tools.

Tip: instead of the saw that comes with the miter box, it is better to use a regular hacksaw for metal. Its cut is more accurate and smooth, which is very important in this process.

Before starting work

Choosing the correct width of the baguette is the key beautiful interior. The method by which you do it also plays an important role in the sawing process. We would like to give you a couple of recommendations that will help you achieve your plans.

So, how to choose the width of the material and how to trim ceiling plinth in the corners:

• the prepared wall surface is not a standard of evenness; use planks of smaller width, as they are more flexible and can close maximum amount defects. Accordingly, on the contrary, the more ideal the surface, the greater the width of the molding can be, but keep in mind - in rooms with low ceilings mount a narrow baguette so as not to reduce them visually;
• Always apply the left side of the corner to the miter box when sawing from the left, the right side to the right. Also, this should be the side of the tool closest to you, the far side for floor moldings. Please don't be confused.

Below we will look at the task in more detail, where you will learn how to cut the corners of the ceiling plinth correctly and with the highest quality.

External

There is one nuance this process, which you should never forget. We always look at the ceiling fillet from below, so when the plank is placed in the miter box (to the wall closest to you), it must be turned over.

The upper part of the molding will then be at your bottom, and the bottom, respectively, at the top. Thus, there will be no gaps between the planes of the corner parts when they are connected.

The process instructions will be like this:

1. Take measuring tools, for example, a tape measure, and a pencil. Start marking with internal corner, so you won’t miss the mark with the outside. It may happen that the length of the baguette is not enough and you will have to make a lot of joints;
2. Attach the molding to ceiling surface and mark the dimensions;
3. Prepare a miter box and a hacksaw. Press the baguette to the side of the tool closest to you;
4. Hold the fillet with your hand and select the position of the hacksaw that will set the appropriate joint angle. These can be standard parameters - 45, 90, or 135˚, or arbitrary, for which you need to move the miter box to the selected degree;
5. Cut the workpiece with a hacksaw;
6. Place the opposite bar against the near wall of the instrument and secure it with your hand;
7. Set the selected degree on the miter box and cut the workpiece with a hacksaw;
8. Join the resulting plinth strips.

Advice: if the walls are connected to each other at right angles, only in this case will a miter box help you with your work, otherwise you will have to make the adjustment yourself.

Interior

There is a professional miter box, which has a rotating platform and can be moved apart to obtain arbitrary angles, as well as for home use, Where special abilities limited. Usually in repairs it is enough to use the second option.

So, the basic principle is ceiling strips are cut off at the wall of the instrument closest to you, we hope you haven’t forgotten.

The process in this case looks like this:

1. Measure the required length of the baguette by placing it on the ceiling surface;
2. Place the molding strip in the miter box, and its position should completely correspond to the location of the baguette on the ceiling;
3. Press the bar against the near wall of the tool;
4. Select the appropriate cutting degree, most often it is 45. Make sure that the handle of the hacksaw is as close as possible to the hand holding the bar to make the cut as accurately as possible;
5. Cut the workpiece, but do not apply excessive force to the hacksaw;
6. Prepare and cut the opposite baguette strip, not forgetting that it should be pressed against the nearest wall of the miter box;
7. Select the appropriate cutting angle for it, leaving a minimum distance between the handle of the hacksaw and the hand holding the molding;
8. Cut off the edge of the plank.

All that remains is to check the correct joining of the segments, and, if everything meets expectations, install them in place.

Tip: start cutting from the front of the molding, then you can orient it in place as accurately as possible. After cutting, process the corners of the wooden baguette and adjust them with a file.

How to make the corners of a ceiling molding without a miter box

Having decided to make a frame on the ceiling for the first time, a beginner does not see any problem in this, but in vain. We advise you to immediately take into account the costs of a certain amount of material that will simply have to be thrown away.

Alas, at what angle to cut the ceiling plinth depends only on the connection of the walls to each other. Not everyone fits straight, for which it is enough to simply cut the strips at 45˚. Often there are parameters corresponding to 85 or 95 degrees, but this is already a problem for novice finishers.

If you are the owner of an apartment built in the last century, this was generally considered the norm. The fact is that when you simply cut the planks at 45˚ and install them on the ceiling, there will be gaps between them, which will then have to be sealed with sealant or putty. We will try our best to help you solve this problem with minimal costs, since the price of not every molding is cheap.

So, how to correctly cut the corners of the ceiling plinth for the internal corner:

Remember when creating:

• internal corner - the lower part protrudes above the upper;
• external - upper over lower.

The quality of the ceiling finish greatly influences appearance premises. That’s why they try to do everything perfectly, or very close to it. The finishing touch to the design is the ceiling plinth. They give the finish a finished and holistic look. The planks themselves are easy to install on flat surfaces: using special glue white, but problems arise with the design of corners. Without knowing how to make the corner of a ceiling plinth correctly, a lot of material is spoiled. We’ll tell you how and with what to cut it in the corners.

What is it made from and what is it called?

The very first plinths on the ceiling were made of plaster. They were cast in special molds, then installed on the ceiling using mortar. Such figured decorations were called fillets. Today you can rarely see them: they are expensive, but in appearance they are almost no different from cheaper options. And this name is almost lost.

The most popular ceiling plinths today are made of polyurethane or polystyrene. They are inexpensive, look great, are easy to install, and have a wide range of profiles and patterns. The width can be from 5 mm to 250 mm. They are used in almost any room, decorated in any style. Exception - Most often used here wooden crafts— style dictates its conditions.

There is also a similar plastic finish. It is mainly installed in bathrooms. But it can also be installed in damp rooms without fear. polyurethane strips— they are not afraid of dampness.

You need to cut ceiling plinths in corners from any material using one of the methods described below. The only exception is plastic skirting boards: You can create such a corner only using ready-made corners.

What and how to cut

Working with skirting boards from different materials involves the use of different cutting tools. When working with wooden ceiling plinths, it is more convenient to use a wood saw. All others, including plastic, foam and other polymers, are better cut with a metal blade. This results in a smoother cut and less burr. Saws are usually used when working with a miter box.

When working with foam baseboards without special devices cut them with a good stationery knife. Its blade is quite thin and even, the cut is smooth and not wrinkled. If you work with polyurethane or polystyrene with a saw, do not press hard: you can dent it.

In general, to get a little used to the tool and material, take a piece and practice on it: cutting, sawing, trimming. This way there will be fewer problems during work.

How to get the right angle

The most problems when working with ceiling skirting boards arise when decorating the corners. Since the surface of the products is complex, simply cutting at the desired angle will not work: it is also necessary to trim so that they fit together and, preferably, without large gaps. In fact, there are several ways to make the corner of the ceiling plinth ideal (or almost).

Using a miter box

If the corners and walls in the room are smooth, you can use a special carpentry tool- miter box. This is a gutter in the shape of an inverted letter “P”, in which lines are marked for cutting at an angle of 90° and 45°. The part to be cut is placed inside, and a saw is inserted into the guides. The part is held in place and cut at the required angle.

In the case of baseboards, not everything is so simple: they must simultaneously adhere to two surfaces, so they need to be pressed against one or the other wall of the miter box. When working with ceiling ones, they are pressed against the side closest to you.

The sequence of actions when finishing the outer corner is to make a cut at an angle of 45 degrees. Place the miter box in front of you. You try on how the plinth will be positioned, determining which part of it will be attached to the ceiling. In order not to get confused and to cut the ceiling plinth correctly, place the plank that will be located on the right on the right, and the one on the left on the left.

Press the part that ends up on the ceiling to the bottom of the miter box. The second side is closer to you and raised. You rest it on the wall of the device so that it does not wobble when cutting. That is, front part the baseboard turns out to be turned away from you. Make the cutting direction as shown in the photo below. By putting the two cut pieces together, you get a protruding corner - an outer or outer corner.

How to make an outer corner of a ceiling plinth using a chair

First place the sawn parts in place “dry”, without applying glue. If the geometry of the corner turns out to be not so ideal, you can correct it a little with a knife. It is easier to cover up small errors with special putty.

The situation with the inner corner of the ceiling plinth is very similar. First, try on which side will be on the ceiling, press this part to the bottom of the miter box, rest the second part on the wall closest to you and make cuts as shown in the photo below.

And again, first try it on without applying glue, and if necessary, adjust it slightly. Then apply a thin bead of glue to both surfaces that will be attached to the wall or ceiling.

Your version of how to use a miter box correctly is shown in the video.

How to make a corner of a ceiling plinth without a miter box

Few apartments or houses have angles exactly 90°. Small deviations can be easily corrected after trying on. But not always. Then you have to mark everything “in place” - under the ceiling.

You will need a finely outlined pencil (hard - it is not so visible on the ceiling, but leaves fairly clear marks up close), a small piece of plinth, a ruler and a good stationery knife, if you work with baguettes made of polyurethane (polystyrene) or a metal saw to work with other materials.

Place the plinth against the corner and draw along the outer edge with a pencil. Apply to the other side of the corner and also mark. You have a cross on the ceiling, the center of which marks the place where the ceiling plinth strips should meet (look at the photo). Having placed a piece of plinth in the corner that will be glued there and resting its end against the wall, transfer the mark to it.

How to make corners on ceiling plinths without using special tools

Now take a ruler and connect the edge of the baseboard with the marked mark. If you just put the plinth on the table and cut it along the line, the two parts in the corner still won’t fit together: it will get in the way inner part. It can be trimmed later by trying it on the ceiling. The second way is to install the piece that needs to be cut on the table with the part that will be on the ceiling. And cut along the line, but holding the knife at an angle of about 45°. You will still need to make adjustments, but much less (and less likely to make mistakes).

Repeat the same operation with the second bar. You attach it to the right wall, rest the end against the adjacent wall, mark the place where the cross is drawn, draw a line and then cut it off. Adjustment is carried out “dry” without applying glue.

You repeat exactly the same steps for the outer (protruding) corner. Now you know another way to make a corner of a ceiling plinth, without a chisel or other special devices.

Using decorative corners

There is another, easiest way. For skirting boards made of polyurethane or polystyrene, use ready-made, factory-made decorative corners. They are installed in a corner, and the strips are glued tightly to them. Trimming them if necessary is very simple: a few millimeters with an ordinary stationery knife.

How to join in corners

If the installation of the first corner is completed, you can assume that you have already learned how to do almost everything. “Almost”, because you still need to learn how to connect the corners and cut the planks to length. When some part has already been glued and there is a small distance left to the corner, how can you not make a mistake with the length? The answer is simple: leave a reserve.

At first, you can cut a piece 10-15 cm longer: you will have the opportunity to redo it several times if something doesn’t work out right away. Then you make an angle in the manner described above, try it on dry, adjust everything so that the result suits you. Only after this can you place the already cut strip in the corner and mark the place to which it can be shortened. You need to cut exactly 90°. It is not necessary to use a miter box. Just try to place the knife (hacksaw) perpendicular to the surface.

If you need to do a neat gusset two wooden parts, you need to make an angular cut at their ends.

1. Miter box

   The cheapest solution for making angled cuts is a simple miter box. It is usually made of plastic or wood and has slots to allow a saw to make a 45° or 90° cut. In addition, there are miter boxes with a large number of holes for different angles. Use a fine-tooth, wide-blade hacksaw and press the piece of wood you want to cut against the back of the miter box. The relatively narrow miter box shown in the picture is suitable for working with small parts, such as cutting wooden planks under a picture frame or other small wooden parts.

2. Miter cutting with fixed guide

   
   

   When using this tool, the saw is fixed in horizontal stripe or guide. The angle between the workpiece and the saw can be precisely set to 22.5°, 30°, 45°, 60° and 90°. The saw blade is easy to replace when it wears out.

3. Electric miter saws

   
   

   The most convenient and quick way making oblique cuts is the use electric saw for cutting at an angle. With a saw like this, you are not limited by the width of the workpiece. The rotation speed of these saws can be continuously adjusted and they also have a connection for a vacuum cleaner to collect dust.

4. Working with a miter saw

   
   

   If you want to cut a beam or baseboard, first accurately measure where you want to cut and mark it with a pencil by drawing a line.
   Set the saw to the desired angle and clamp the workpiece; You can, for example, use a gluing clamp. If you're not sure what angle you need, first make a test cut on a piece of scrap wood.
   Before making a cut, check that the saw blade is sharp enough - otherwise the material will split severely and you will have to apply additional force. Fine tooth blades give the best results.

5. CLUE!

   If the saw often gets stuck, rub the saw blade with the end of a candle. Candle paraffin will allow you to cut without jamming.

6. Cutting width

   
   

   The maximum width or depth of cut when using an electric miter saw depends on the diameter of the blade. The maximum cutting width is equal to the disc diameter, which is usually 250 mm. An electric miter saw may have two guides. They allow you to move the saw towards you and get a larger cutting width.

7. Sawing

   
   

   Measure the cutting angle, for example using a measuring stick. If two wooden blanks are at right angles to each other, then the angle is 90°. In this case, each of the two angles at which you need to make a cut is 45°. Using a miter box, you can make a cut at a 45° angle to the left or right. For best appearance, ensure that the same sides of the workpiece will be visible from the inside and outside of the completed joint. If you have learned how to make bevel cuts, you can also make direct connection with a beveled edge to join two pieces of wood to add length. In this case, two planks or two plinths will be neatly connected to each other.

8. Variable cutting angles

   
   

   By using different cutting angles, you can make the connection at the desired angle. When non-standard angles You can make a neat connection by measuring the required cut angle using an adjustable jig or contour gauge. Set the grinder exactly at half of this angle and make corresponding marks on each workpiece. After this, set the grinder at the same angle and you can make a neat connection.

How to cut a ceiling plinth? At first glance, it seems that such a problem does not exist at all. However, the very first attempt to lay it in the corner area leads to defects in the form of unsightly gaps and mismatches. Any job requires a thoughtful approach, and installing skirting boards is no exception. In itself, this event can hardly be classified as a complex construction operation, but without taking into account some nuances it is very difficult to ensure ideal quality. The question of how to cut a ceiling plinth can be solved independently, but this must be done correctly and accurately.

The ceiling plinth is a decorative strip and gives the renovation a finished look, so you need to know and be able to work with it correctly.

Features of the ceiling plinth

Ceiling plinth, or fillet, is a decorative strip that visually separates the ceiling from the wall, as well as masking the joint areas finishing materials and flaws in the corner joint between the wall and the ceiling. Such an element can be made of wood, PVC, polyurethane, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, gypsum and have different widths.

Figure 1. Ceiling plinth installation diagram.

The fillet is fastened to the wall by gluing it with a special adhesive composition and is not difficult to install with your own hands. The most difficult areas are the internal and external corners. High-quality installation provides for clear articulation of the plank in the corners without gaps, which sometimes causes problems. When forming corners on relief, figured decorative skirting boards It is better to use special overhead corner parts, which allow you to perfectly close all cutting defects. The cutting of the material itself is easily done using a sharp knife or a hacksaw.

Figure 1 shows options for making corners when installing fillets. The overhead corner simplifies installation. When installing it, the part is simply measured along the length of the wall, and its end is cut at a right angle. The overlay element hides all the gaps underneath, but protrudes somewhat beyond the boundaries of the baseboard, drawing attention to itself. Despite all the decorativeness of such details, not everyone likes their clarity, and therefore the direct joint of planks without additional elements. (Fig. 1. Ceiling plinth installation diagram)

When forming external or internal corner joints from two fillets, their ends must be cut strictly in a given direction so that no gap is formed at the junction. The problem includes following conditions: ensuring that the angles on both elements match, maintaining the same cut across the entire width of the plinth and ensuring a strictly vertical cut. Any violation of the conditions leads to the appearance of a gap either across the entire width of the plank, or in individual areas. The task becomes more difficult as the width of the element increases.

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Ceiling plinth cutting tool

Figure 2. A simple tool for cutting skirting board corners - a miter box.

To cut the ceiling plinth with your own hands, you will need the following tool:

• hacksaw;
• hacksaw for metal;
• sandpaper;
• file;
• scissors;
• roulette;
• protractor;
• square;
• metal ruler.

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Cutting with a miter box

In order to qualitatively solve the question of how to cut the corners of a ceiling plinth, there is a fairly simple carpenter’s tool - a miter box. This tool is made in the form of a wooden, metal or plastic tray with vertical slots for cutting in different directions. Typically, the device has slots with an inclination of 45, 60 and 90º. In more complex structures A tilt change mechanism is provided, which allows you to set any desired cutting angle.

Figure 3. Scheme of cutting a corner using a miter box.

Figure 2 shows a standard miter box, and Figure 3 shows the principle of its operation. The ceiling element strip is installed on the bottom of the tray with the side that is connected to the ceiling during installation, and is pressed against the wall with the right slot. A hacksaw for metal is inserted into the slot, and with careful, smooth movements, the baseboard is completely cut. The second fillet is cut using the left slot. (Fig. 2. Standard miter box) (Fig. 3. Scheme of cutting a corner using a miter box)

When arranging a standard internal corner of two adjacent walls, the fillets are cut at 45º. This is the most common cutting. External corner it is made if necessary to bypass protrusions or niches on the wall and is formed in a similar way (Fig. 3). Sometimes niches or projections have a trapezoidal appearance - in this case, adjacent walls are joined at an angle other than a straight one. In this case, the plinth is cut at an angle, equal to half wall junction angle. For this purpose, a standard miter box provides a cutting angle of 60º (when joining walls at an angle of 120º).

You can very easily make a miter box with your own hands. To do this, a wooden tray is assembled from slats 15-20 cm thick, and the height of the tray should not be less than the width of the fillet. Using a protractor, an angle of 45º is set, and, using a hacksaw, both vertical walls of the tray are completely sawed. A line is drawn perpendicular to the line of this cut through the center of the tray, along which another cut of the walls is made. Cutting skirting boards on this homemade device carried out similarly to a standard miter box.

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Cutting skirting boards without a miter box

You can cut the ceiling plinth without a miter box. What to do if you don’t have the device at hand, but you only need to cut off a few skirting boards? You can form a neat corner without using a miter box. The easiest way is the application method. Taking into account the actual unevenness of the corner joints, it is better to carry out it directly at the installation site of the fillets.

Cutting the corner is carried out in the following order. First, the planks are measured strictly according to the size of the walls (from corner to corner) and cut at right angles. The first fillet is then butted against the adjacent wall and held in that position. A second plank is placed perpendicular to it, pressing against the wall. On the first fillet, a line is drawn along the edge of the joined second fillet. On both side edges, a drawn line connects to the lower corners of the plank. The second plinth is marked in the same way. Cutting is carried out strictly according to the markings.

Marking can be done in the lower corner of the walls, but during installation, real deviations may appear at the junction of adjacent walls in top corner, which will cause certain inaccuracies.

You can do the work with the ceiling plinth yourself. Their installation is not difficult, but there is one point that can ruin the whole job: namely, cutting the plinth for the corners. We will discuss how to cut the ceiling plinth correctly in the article.

Ceiling plinths differ in the materials from which they are made. The price range and appearance vary depending on the material. Choice suitable skirting board depends on your financial capabilities and interior.

1. Foam fillets;
2. Polystyrene foam baseboard;
3. Plaster plinths;
4. Wooden skirting boards;
5. PVC skirting boards.

Foam skirting boards

The most common option. They are sold primarily in white, so they must be painted if a different color is needed.
Such skirting boards are inexpensive and, due to their lightness, can be installed on stretch ceiling. Installation is simple, no need to call specialists or friends for help, all work can be done alone.

One of the disadvantages of polystyrene foam is its sensitivity to many substances. Finding glue is quite difficult. Those that are too weak are not able to hold the panel, and glue with chemicals in its composition can simply corrode the material.

Foam plastic does not withstand mechanical stress, so working with it requires care. You cannot press on it, you need to cut it with extreme caution.

Foam panels look nice, but should not be used with more expensive materials, it will look ridiculous.

Polystyrene foam baseboard

They feature a wide range of designs. You can choose one suitable for any interior.

The price for such fillets is much higher than for foam fillets. It will depend on the pattern and size. It is much easier to care for them, they are not afraid wet cleaning. They will not harbor insects or mold.
However, during installation it is not convenient to work with them: they are very fragile and are afraid of any impact.

It will take a long time to choose the glue, since the material is easily susceptible to chemical attack. It is not elastic, which means it is quite difficult to install it on a curved area. They are advised to be sure to paint them, since over time there is a high probability that they will turn yellow. Highly flammable. Expanded polystyrene does not apply to environmentally friendly materials, contains synthetic components.

Gypsum skirting boards

In terms of their design, they represent the widest range of choices among ceiling skirting boards. They look rich and add sophistication to the room. They will cost significantly more than other types.


Gypsum is environmentally friendly pure material, they can be installed in any room. Do not support combustion. But in terms of weight they are ahead of their counterparts. Not just any glue can withstand plaster; you will have to use special compounds. During installation, you will need two people, because the plaster does not attach well to the surface due to its weight.
Plaster panels will not fit into any interior. They are more suitable classic style. Their use in modern styles doubtful. You can make a drawing to order, but the material still limits the design.

PVC skirting boards

They are distinguished by their durability and variety of design options. Plastic is not afraid of moisture and fire. Easy to care for, can be cleaned with detergents.
The cost of PVC fillet does not exceed the cost of other synthetic skirting boards. However, plastic tends to turn yellow, but it cannot be painted.

Wooden skirting boards

The most expensive. Their prices will vary depending on the type of wood, but even the cheapest ones will cost a pretty penny.

Wooden panels are used much less frequently than others. It is quite difficult to fit them into the interior of the apartment. They are used mainly in private homes.
Their installation requires certain skills. In addition to using glue, it is recommended to additionally use nails and screws. It is impossible to complete the installation alone. Of course, you can choose any design; in a carpentry workshop you can have a unique carving made according to your own sketches, but then the cost will at least double.

the tree remains natural material, which means that it is absolutely safe. Pay attention to the impregnations that were used when processing the fillet. They should not contain toxic substances, otherwise there is no point in the fact that the tree is environmentally friendly. Wood is the most durable material; you have to try hard to damage it.

Required tools and materials

First you need to prepare the panels themselves. Depending on the material you will need different instruments in order to cut the fillets correctly.

PVC fillets are not as fragile, but are still susceptible to dents. You can cut them with a construction knife or a hacksaw. Expanded polystyrene is more fragile than PVC. It may simply crumble when cut. You need to use well-sharpened tools. A sharp knife or hacksaw will do. When working, do not put too much pressure on the material. Polyurethane panels are easy to cut and do not crumble. They can be cut with a knife. It is most convenient to cut wooden panels with an electric saw or a hacksaw. The teeth must be small.
What else you may need while working:

1. Miter box;
2. Knife, hacksaw or power saw for cutting panels;
3. Paper and pencil for drawing and marking;
4. Ruler and square.

A miter box is a special tool for cutting panels at a certain degree. It is inexpensive, so it makes sense to buy it for better quality work. You can make it yourself or draw a layout on paper in its likeness.

How to cut ceiling plinth

Using a miter box

Corners in an apartment are divided into external and external. The cutting technology will be slightly different. How to properly cut skirting boards for an internal corner.
The fillet is installed on the corner. Mark a cutting line on it right along the corner of the wall. The markings on the opposite plinth are done in exactly the same way, only on the other side.


The panel is installed in a miter box, the side that is attached to the ceiling should be at the bottom. Place the end at an angle of 45 degrees into a special hole. The panel should fit snugly against the wall of the miter box. Smoothly cut off the unnecessary edge. The adjacent part is also cut off in mirror image. After cutting, check the joint of the skirting boards by placing them against the corner. If the joint is uneven, you will have to cut it again.

If you are performing the procedure for the first time, then you can first practice on small unnecessary pieces, so you will get better at it.

The cut for the outer corner is made in the same sequence, only in the opposite direction. The side that is attached to the ceiling should be on top. Cutting occurs from right to left for right side corner and vice versa for the left.

Marking

When cutting corners, a miter box makes the process easier, but you can do the job without it.

Then you can make markings directly on the corner or make a mock-up of it.
If you decide to make markings directly on the ceiling, then attach the panel to the corner. Draw a line on the ceiling along the baseboard, do the same with the opposite side. Along the right line, a mark is placed on the left bar at the place where they intersect. On the right bar the mark runs where it intersects with the left line. Connect the line marks to the end of the underside of the baseboard. Now cut the plinth according to the markings.

Sample

You can make an imitation miter box on paper. On a piece of paper, draw two lines running parallel to each other. Using a protractor, connect them at an angle of 45 degrees, the line should go to the left. Step back 10 centimeters to the left and draw a line at an angle of 45 degrees, already going to the right. Now just instead of installing the panel into the cut, attach it to the lines on the paper and cut it.

If you have uneven corners at home, then this is also not a problem. Measure the angle and divide the resulting number by 2. This will be the desired degree for cutting. Then draw lines to simulate a miter box at the same angle.
If you can’t cut it correctly or don’t want to bother, then you can buy ready-made skirting board corners. They are inexpensive.