How to properly install OSB on an old wooden floor? Finishing OSB - everything you need to know about this material and the specifics of working with it How to attach OSB boards to the frame.

Laying OSB on a wooden floor during renovation is used flooring from tongue and groove, to reinforce the subfloor or to provide a continuous layer when laying small-format cladding (for example, tiles, PVC tiles, parquet).

Although the quality of oriented strand board is superior chipboard characteristics, this construction material is not suitable as a finishing floor covering:

Therefore, OSB is used more often as a subfloor:

In this case, you need to know how to properly attach OSB sheets to floorboards/joists and use offset seams in adjacent rows.

There are several types of oriented strand boards:

OSB-2 – only for dry rooms;
OSB-3 – can be used in rooms with high humidity;
OSB-4 – for load-bearing structures.

Important! Since the subfloor has low maintainability, it is prohibited to use OSB-2 in it. The slabs are additionally treated with antiseptic and hydro insulating material.

The main characteristics of oriented strand boards are:

density – 630 kg/m³;
thermal conductivity – 0.13 W/m*K;
linear expansion – 0.15% at a humidity of 70%;
straightness – 0.6 mm/m;
the perpendicularity of the opposite sides of the sheet is within 3 mm;
thickness deviation – 0.3 – 0.8 mm (ground, untreated, respectively).

Advice! Manufacturers produce slabs different sizes, which must be taken into account when purchasing in order to reduce cutting waste for specific dimensions and room configurations.

Installation technology

To properly lay sheet material over an existing plank floor, the following conditions must be met:

Important! When laying parquet, PVC tiles, other small format claddings, the screw heads must be puttied.

Depending on the type of finishing floor covering, OSB boards are oriented towards wooden floor not the same:

for small format decorative materials It should be ensured that the seams of tiles and PVC tiles do not coincide with the joints of OSB boards;
When choosing laminate, tongue and groove, decking or parquet boards, it is better to lay the rows of OSB across the direction of the long facings of the finishing layer or at an angle of 45 degrees for a diagonal layout (relevant in rooms with defects in the geometry of the walls).

Advice! On OSB it is allowed to apply a screed made of DSP or self-leveling floor. However, the surface of the oriented strand board must be pre-treated with a waterproofing material to avoid leaks into the lower floor and swelling of the structural material itself.

Finish flooring repair

The main problem with plank flooring is a floorboard or several boards, which develop a transverse “hump” during periodic changes in humidity or during drying. This leads to an increase in the repair budget:

In other words, OSB with a thickness of 22 mm or more should be used. This problem can be solved by preliminary grinding or scraping of the base:

a grinder or sander will smooth out the “waves”;
the contact area of the subfloor layers will sharply increase;
You can get by with oriented strand boards of smaller thickness.

However, this is not always possible when the existing floor covering is thin.

OSB subfloor top layer

provide a level base for the floor covering;
increase spatial rigidity and strength of the base;
reduce labor and material consumption of work.

Unlike floorboards, self-tapping screws are screwed into OSB boards strictly vertically. When the hardware is tilted, a change in geometry and warping of the material over time may occur.

The main problems arise when opposite walls diverge (trapezoid instead rectangular shape premises). In this case, it is necessary to mark the existing wooden floor in order to trim only the slabs of the first row:

Thus, the OSB structural material is suitable both for creating the top layer of a subfloor and for repairing a finished floor covering made of tongue-and-groove boards if dismantling this cladding for some reason is not practical in the room. When choosing an oriented strand board, the labor intensity of the work is reduced, House master makes do with the existing arsenal of tools.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and offers will be sent to your email with prices ranging from construction crews and companies. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

OSB or OSB (oriented strand board) is a relatively new building material that has become a successful alternative to plywood and chipboard. The role of OSB in frame construction and insulation of standard houses is great. Especially often, OSB is used to form and level floor surfaces. Today we’ll talk about how to do this correctly.

Types of OSB boards and their characteristics

OSB is a board consisting of several layers of wood chips pressed and glued with waterproof resins. Its gluing is carried out in 3 layers. In outer layers The chips are laid along the length of the panel, and perpendicularly inside. This arrangement gives OSB strength and allows fasteners to be firmly held.

The following types of OSB are used in construction:

OSB-2 – panels with low moisture resistance. They are used only for interior work in dry rooms.
OSB-3 – universal material. Withstands high humidity both indoors and outdoors. A large margin of safety allows it to be widely used in construction.
OSB-4 is the most durable and moisture-resistant board. They are used to form load-bearing structures in conditions of high humidity.

For construction and leveling of floors they are usually used OSB sheets-3, which perfectly withstand the load from furniture, equipment, and people’s movement.

When leveling small floor defects, it is enough to use OSB boards 10 mm thick. Surfaces with significant bumps and potholes will require 10-15 mm of material. If you are going to create a floor on logs, then the thickness of the OSB boards used should be at least 15-25 mm.

They are widely used for laying subfloors under the finishing coating. wood boards, such as plywood and OSB. Let's compare these two materials in the following article: .

OSB boards are used as a smooth and durable base for various modern coatings - parquet, tiles, linoleum, laminate, carpet. The main functions of oriented strand boards are:

Creating a floor surface. OSB is a popular material for creating subfloors on joists. In this case, the flooring of the slabs can be carried out both on the upper side of the joists and on the lower side.
Leveling the surface. OSB installation on a wooden or concrete floor will help create a completely flat surface suitable for laying finishing coatings.
Thermal insulation of the floor. OSB board consists of 90% natural wood chips, which have high thermal insulation properties. Accordingly, an OSB floor does not allow heat to escape and retains it in the room.
Noise insulation. The multilayer dense OSB structure reliably absorbs any type of noise.

Let's look at a few popular technologies laying OSB on different substrates.

Installation of OSB boards on a concrete floor (cement screed)

Let's start with the simplest situation - leveling a concrete base with OSB slabs. The work is carried out according to this scheme.

Sweep away debris from the concrete base and remove dust with a vacuum cleaner. The surface must be absolutely clean to ensure adhesion of the mounting adhesive. The base is coated with a primer. This also promotes better adhesion of the glue to the base. In addition, the primer creates a dense film on the surface, which does not allow the screed to “dust” during use.

OSB is laid out on the surface, if necessary, trimming is done with a jigsaw or circular saw. Rubber-based parquet adhesive is applied to the underside of OSB, using a notched trowel to ensure uniform application. Glue the sheets to the concrete base.

Additionally, OSB is fixed with driven dowels. To guarantee retention, dowels are driven in around the perimeter every 20-30 cm. If the floor is flat and installation is carried out in a dry living room, then it is enough to secure the dowels in the corners of each slab (subject to the mandatory use of high-quality glue!).

When laying, expansion joints 3 mm thick are left between the slabs. Along the perimeter of the room, between the OSB and the wall, the seam should be 12 mm. These gaps are necessary to compensate for temperature and humidity expansion (swelling) of the OSB during operation.

On last stage work, the OSB base is cleaned of dust and debris. The seams between the wall and the slabs are filled with polyurethane foam. Its drying time is 3-4 hours. Excess dry foam that protrudes beyond the surface is cut off with a sharp knife.

Installation of OSB boards on plank flooring

Laying OSB on an old wooden floor helps level the surface and prepare it for installation of the finishing coating. Installation is carried out as follows:

To begin with, using a level or a rule, determine the localization of irregularities (bulges, depressions) of the boardwalk.
Boards that “walk” or rise too high above the general level are pulled to the joists with dowels, recessing them into the material. In some cases, to eliminate creaking and unsteadiness of the boards, the floor has to be rebuilt and the joists replaced (repaired).
Remove paint deposits from the flooring, erase swellings and protrusions with a sander or emery cloth.
OSB boards are laid out on the floor, with the seams of each next row offset. There should be no cross-shaped joints! Expansion gaps are provided (between the plates - 3 mm, along the perimeter of the walls - 12 mm).
Holes are drilled in the slabs. Their diameter should match the thread diameter of the wood screws that were chosen to fix the OSB to the floor. Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the slabs every 20-30 cm, and countersinking is performed for the screw heads.
Use wood screws to attach the OSB to the floor. The recommended length of screws is at least 45 mm.
If you want to make the floor more durable, install a second layer of OSB. The seams of the overlying and underlying layers should be laid with an offset of 20-30 cm.
Deformation gaps near the walls are filled with polyurethane foam, which is cut off after drying.

This completes the process.

Laying OSB on joists on a concrete base

If there is a concrete base (for example, a floor slab), installing joists and covering them with OSB sheets allows you to create a level floor without the use of wet leveling screeds. And also incorporate insulating, moisture- and noise-insulating materials into the structure.

Let's consider the technology of creating an OSB floor on logs on an existing concrete base. Lags ( wooden blocks) are fixed to the concrete floor using dowels or anchors.

The wider the distance between the logs, the thicker the OSB boards used. If the pitch is 40 mm, then the minimum OSB thickness is 15-18 mm; if the pitch is 50 cm, the thickness is 18-22 mm; if 60 cm, the thickness is 22 mm or more.

Thanks to the logs, space is created between the OSB and the concrete floor. It can be put to good use by covering it with insulating material. For example, the floors of the first floors are often cold, so a thermal insulator can be laid between the joists: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, EPS, etc. If there is a wet basement under the ceiling, the floor structure is supplemented vapor barrier films or membranes.

OSB boards are laid across the joists. The seams between adjacent slabs (widthwise) should run strictly in the middle of the log. During installation, it is recommended to leave expansion gaps (3 mm between the slabs, 12 mm between the OSB and the wall)

The sheets are fixed to the joists with self-tapping screws or nails (spiral, ring). Spacing of fasteners: along the perimeter of the sheets – 15 mm, on intermediate (additional) supports – 30 mm. Nails (or self-tapping screws) fixing the boards around the perimeter are placed at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edge (so that the OSB does not crack). Fastening elements are selected so that their length is 2.5 times greater than the thickness of the plates used.

How to fasten OSB boards to joists in an ordinary city apartment, watch the video:

Creating a subfloor from OSB on joists

Laying OSB on wooden joists is the easiest way to get a durable and reliable subfloor. This technology is especially appropriate with existing columnar, pile, pile-screw foundation. Work order:

Logs are installed on the foundation. The lag pitch must correspond to the thickness of the OSB boards used (the larger the pitch, the greater the thickness).
Perform rough rolling of the floor. To do this, retaining bars are nailed along the joists, and OSB boards are laid and secured on them. The surface facing the ground is covered with waterproofing preparations, for example, bitumen mastic.
A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the OSB.
Stacked thermal insulation material, for example, polystyrene foam, boards mineral wool, ecowool, etc.
Cover the insulation with another layer of OSB. Fastening is carried out in the same way as when laying OSB on logs on an existing concrete base (the technology is described in the previous paragraph).

At this point the work process is considered completed.

Processing OSB for different finishing coatings

Durable, hard and smooth surface makes OSB universal basis for all modern types of finishing floor coverings. How to cover an OSB floor? Here are some popular solutions:

Varnish or paint. In this case, OSB boards will act as finished floors, which will only require decorative finishing with paints and varnishes. OSB sheets do not require any additional preparation; it is enough to clean them from dust and apply 2-3 layers of varnish (paint).
Roll materials - linoleum and carpet. When laying rolled materials, it is necessary to ensure that the joints between OSB boards are located flush with the rest of the surface. It is advisable to remove all irregularities using sanding paper. Compensation gaps should be filled with elastic sealant.
Tile(ceramic, vinyl, quartz vinyl, rubber, etc.). In order for the tile to be held on the OSB base, it is necessary to ensure its immobility. To do this, logs are placed more often than required by the thickness of the sheets. The pitch between the fastening elements is also reduced. The tiles are glued to OSB using a special adhesive suitable for the wooden surface and the tiles used.
Laminate– a finishing coating that is fixed in a “floating” way, without rigidly fastening the lamellas. This coating is quite rigid, so there is no need to prepare OSB for it. Minor irregularities that may exist at the joints of the plates are leveled out by the substrate.

What exactly to choose is up to you.

Using OSB allows you to inexpensively and quickly level an existing wood or concrete floor. And if necessary, create it from scratch on logs. An OSB surface will not require expensive finishing, additional leveling, or coating with moisture-resistant compounds. This is an excellent choice for those who want to create a high-quality floor with minimal effort.

Expert advice

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To Oil paint does not dry out during storage and so that a film does not form on it, place a circle of thick paper on the surface of the paint and “fill it thin layer drying oils

" Polyethylene film, covering a balcony or greenhouse, is protected from being torn off by the wind by a string stretched on both sides at intervals of 10-15 cm."

"To work with concrete mixture it was easier, clay is usually added to it, but clay reduces the strength of the mixture. Add a spoonful of washing powder to it per bucket of water. "

"To prevent the screw, the head of which is hidden behind the obstacle, from rotating along with the tightened nut, you need to throw several turns of thread or thin wire over it and lightly tighten the ends. Due to friction, the screw is held well in place. The ends of the thread can be cut off after tightening."

"You can cut out a birdhouse entrance without a brace. It is enough to split the front side of the board in the center and cut out the half-holes with a chisel or hatchet required size, and then reconnect the halves. "

Wooden screw plugs crumble and fall out of the wall. Take your time to cut out the new plug. Fill the hole in the wall tightly with nylon from an old stocking. Heated red hot nail dem suitable diameter melt a hole for the screw. The fused nylon will turn into a strong cork.

"It is not difficult to turn a carpenter's level into a theodolite by equipping it with an aiming device from a slot and a front sight."

"In order for two strips of linoleum to lie end to end, it is convenient to use a self-adhesive decorative film, placing it under the base of the noleum."

"To ensure that the nail goes in the right direction and does not bend when driven into a deep hole or groove, it should be placed inside the tube, secured with crumpled paper or plasticine."

Before drilling a hole in a concrete wall, secure a piece of paper just below it. Dust and concrete fragments will not fly around the room.

"To cut a pipe exactly at a right angle, we recommend doing this. Take an even strip of paper and screw it onto the pipe along the sawing line. The plane passing through the edge of the paper will be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe."

"A simple device will help you move logs or wooden beams - a piece of motorcycle or bicycle chain, equipped with a hook on one side and attached to a crowbar on the other side."

"In order for one person to work with a two-handed saw, we recommend using a simple technique: rearrange the saw handle from top position to the bottom. "

You can cut a piece of slate of the required size with a saw, but it is better and easier to punch holes along the line of the intended cut with a nail at a frequency of 2-3 cm, and then break off the slate on the support.

"The best way to stick tiles to the wall: take bitumen, melt it and drop just four drops on the corners of the tile. It sticks dead in place."

When making shaped window casings, it is most convenient to cut shaped holes with a hacksaw with a sharpened blade.

"Making stained glass is a long and difficult task. You can make a quick imitation of stained glass. To do this, take thin slats or rods of vines, glue them to a sheet of glass, and then paint the glass and cover it with varnish."

"If you don't have a dowel at hand, you can make one from a piece of plastic tube. The body of a ballpoint pen can also be suitable for this. Having sawed off a piece of the required length, make a longitudinal cut, about halfway, and the dowel is ready."

"It is known how difficult it is to hang a door when working alone. But just shorten the bottom pin by 2-3 mm and the work will become much easier."

"A very durable, non-shrinking and fairly waterproof putty is made from bustylate mixed with any powder - chalk, gypsum, cement!, sawdust, etc."

"If you need to screw a screw into the end of a particle board, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with Moment glue (not epoxy!), screw the screw in a day later. The board does not delaminate. However, the resulting connection can only be placed under load through day. "

"It is more convenient to secure portraits, photographs, paintings in wooden frames with glass not with nails, but with the help of pushpins bent at right angles. The pins are gently pressed with a screwdriver. Compared with nails, the danger of splitting thin frames is reduced to a minimum."

"It is not so easy to screw a screw into hard wood. If you poke a hole for the screw with an awl, and rub the screw itself generously with soap, then after such an operation the work will go like clockwork."

To save time, the edge of the wallpaper can be trimmed with a sharp knife without unrolling the roll. To do this, you must first align the end of the roll and draw the edge border on the outside with a simple pencil. Working with a knife, the roll must be gradually turned in the direction of rolling.

For carrying at home large sheets plywood, glass or thin iron, it is convenient to use a wire holder with three hooks at the bottom and a handle at the top.

IF you need to saw a round stick into the distance, this work is most conveniently done using a template. It is made of a metal tube with a groove in the middle. The diameter is chosen so that the template slides freely along the stick.

It will be better and easier to work with a hacksaw if in the middle part you increase the height of the teeth by 1/3.

If you attach a weight weighing about a kilogram to the front of the bow saw machine, the work will become easier. The load must be made removable so that the saw can be used to perform other work.

"A wax-like coating can be obtained by painting the surface with diluted PVA glue. To obtain the desired color, you need to dilute the glue with water tinted with watercolors."

"Making a cover for an ax blade is as easy as shelling pears. Take a piece of rubber tube, cut it lengthwise and put it on the blade. It is protected from slipping off by a ring cut from an old car camera."

" Avoid using clamps when gluing wooden frames A laundry cord will help. You should put four short loops on the corners of the frame and two long ones to tighten the frames diagonally. The angles are adjusted using sticks that twist the middle loops. "

"How to silence a creaking floorboard? Between the floorboards you need to drill a hole at an angle of 45° with a diameter of 6-8 mm, drive a wooden pin into it, lubricated with wood glue, cut off the protruding end with a chisel and putty on the floor surface."

"To make it easier to sand a floor covered with varnish or paint, iron it with an iron through a damp cloth - and the work will become easier."

"Slight rotting on wood can be eliminated as follows: the affected wood is removed from the healthy layer, and then soaked in a 10% formaldehyde solution. After drying, the area is puttied and painted over."

" Door hinges they will not creak if they are lubricated in time - this is a long-known rule. But you can do without lubrication. To do this, you need to make a washer from a polyethylene cork and put it on the hinge pin. "

" Out of order door latch If the spring is broken, it can be repaired as follows: the role of the spring can be successfully performed by a piece of rubber tube with a diameter of 15 mm or a piece of elastic rubber installed between the bolt and the latch body. "

We offer a simple device for fixing the window frame in the open position: a wooden or plastic plate in which a number of holes are drilled for the latch. The plate is attached to the window frame with a screw.

"You can cut a large hole in sheet material in a simple way: hold a nail in a vice (it will serve as an axis) and a piece of a drill (this will be a cutter). The circle is cut by rotating the sheet around the axis."

Since the late nineties, as a rule, OSB boards with a thickness of 9-15 mm have been chosen as cladding for the exterior of a house frame. And if quite a lot has been written about the OSB panels themselves, then finding a description of the technology for covering the frame is quite difficult for a novice builder....

And the lack of necessary information, as a rule, leads to errors, such as covering the frame with OSB slabs end-to-end, choosing the wrong pitch of screws for attaching the slabs to the frame of the house, etc.

When studying options for wall cladding with OSB boards on the Internet and in various forums, a lot of questions arise...

Here are just a few of the most asked:

Is a gap between the plates necessary or not?
Why is there an additional OSB panel insert between the first and second floors in one option, while in the other option it is missing?
How to place OSB boards when cladding walls? Vertical or horizontal?
What screw pitch should I choose when attaching OSB panels to frame studs?
What is the required length of screws or nails for fastening OSB sheets?

And so in order: When covering the walls, leave an expansion joint between the OSB panels, or fasten them end-to-end?

Let's think... OSB board, like wood, expands or contracts depending on air temperature and humidity. What happens if there is no expansion joint between the panels can be easily understood by looking at Fig. 1. As the slabs expand, their edges will converge and warp, as a result of which after the first winter we will get swollen edges of the panels.

The expansion joint becomes especially relevant if the walls are planned to be sheathed not with OSB boards, but with plywood. The width of the expansion joint should be 3-5 mm. In practice it is most convenient expansion joints formed using not spacers between the plates, but by screwing a screw of the required diameter into the rack

To fasten OSB sheets to the wall of the house frame, it is better to use phosphated (black) screws 55-70 mm long, and when working with a pneumatic hammer, ( If you think about it, even for a small house or outbuilding, the number of nails that will need to be driven into the thousands... so, such a tool will be extremely useful, fortunately, budget models have now appeared on the market) special “ruff” nails with a notch 55-65 mm long are used.

The length of nails or screws is determined by the following factor:

To securely fix the sheathing sheets on the walls of the house frame, it is necessary that the nail penetrates at least 40-45 mm into the frame stud of the house wall. We add the thickness of the OSB sheets used to cover the frame, usually sheets with a thickness of 9-12-15 mm are used, and we get the required length of nails or screws within 55-65 mm.

Nails and screws are driven or screwed in at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the OSB sheet in order to prevent the sheet edge from splitting. The distance between nails (pitch) along the edge of the sheet is 150 mm, in the center of the sheet 300 mm. (Fig.2)

The main options for the arrangement of slabs when covering a wall frame can be reduced to the three most used:

vertical fig. 3a
horizontally Fig. 3b
options with additional inserts fig. 3v

We'll look at these options in more detail next time...

Recycling waste from the wood processing industry is one of the promising economic areas that is actively developing at present. Products made from wood waste, including plywood, chipboard and fiberboard, laminated veneer lumber, etc., are used in the furniture industry and construction. In addition, today OSB boards have become very popular, the technical characteristics of which make it possible to use this material in a wide variety of production areas.

Structural features, pros and cons

The abbreviation OSB or OSB (OSB) stands for Oriented Strand Board, which translated from English means a board made of oriented strands. This new generation finishing material consists of 90% wood chips. They are pressed under pressure and high temperatures and bonded together using special fillers, which are waterproof resins of synthetic origin.

The OSB board consists of several layers of chips, and in each of them it is laid in a different direction. This technology allows you to achieve a high level of strength and durability of products. Provided the thickness is selected correctly, the OSB board can withstand a very significant load of several centners.

Advantages of the material:

High strength.
Light weight and elasticity. Thanks to this quality, OSB boards are suitable for cladding surfaces with a significant radius of curvature.
Structural homogeneity. When bent, oriented strand boards do not delaminate or deform, unlike another popular sheathing material - plywood.
High levels of sound and heat insulation.
Ease of processing and installation.
Chemical and mechanical resistance.
Bacteriological resistance.

Disadvantages of OSB boards:

The presence of phenol in the composition of synthetic resins used in the composition of the material. However, OSB boards used for interior decoration undergo more stringent quality control, and, therefore, their main safety indicators for humans fully comply with the standard. And recently, many manufacturers have completely eliminated the use of formaldehyde in their production.
Some types of material have little moisture resistance.

Types of OSB boards and their differences

Modern industry produces four types of oriented strand boards (OSB), having slight differences in the main physical and technical characteristics. These include:

Name	Characteristics	Scope of application
OSB 1	Low density, low strength and moisture resistance	Furniture manufacturing, interior decoration
OSB 2	Good strength with low moisture resistance	Manufacturing internal partitions, floors
OSB 3	High level of strength and moisture resistance	Interior and exterior work (in the latter case, the material needs to be treated with special impregnation or painting)
OSB 4	Very high strength properties, very high moisture resistance	Construction of load-bearing elements of walls and roofs of buildings

Dimensions and thickness

When assessing the quality of oriented strand boards, various indicators are used. One of the most important is their thickness, which can range from 8 to 26 mm (in increments of 1-2 mm). It has a direct impact on the use of this material. For example, when finishing various designs where a high load on the slab is not expected, fairly thin sheets up to 16 mm thick can be used. These are walls, bases for soft roofing, etc. As the load increases, thicker slabs are used.

The standard dimensions of OSB (OSB) boards are: 2500 x 1250 mm. In addition, you can find slabs with the following parameters on sale:

Indicators	Slabs with tongue and groove				Slabs with smooth edges
Dimensions (length x width), mm	2440 x 1220, 2500 x 1250, 2440 x 590, 2500 x 625				2440 x 1220, 2500 x 1250, 2800 x 1250
Thickness, mm	15	16	18	22	9	10	11	12	15	16	18	22
Number of sheets per package	55	50	45	35	100	80	75	70	55	50	45	35

Now many people are equipping their balcony under workplace. You can find out what you need to make it personal in our separate article.

Specifications

The use of OSB boards directly depends on their main technical characteristics, such as:

Flexural and tensile strength.
The degree of swelling in a humid environment (moisture resistance).
Appearance.
Processing ability.

The physical and technical characteristics of this material can be presented in the form of a table:

	Bending strength modulus, longitudinal axis, N/mm 2	Bending strength modulus, transverse axis, N/mm 2	Swelling degree,%
OSB 1	2500	1200	25
OSB 2	3500	1400	20
OSB 3	3500	1400	15
OSB 4	4800	1800	12

Comparative specifications OSB boards (OSB) popular types:

Indicators	Standard	Aggloply OSB 2	Aggloply OSB 3	OSB 2				OSB 3
Thickness, mm		10-18	10-18	6-10	10-18	18-25		6-10
Thickness tolerances, mm: unpolished slab polished plate	EN 324-1	0,3 0,3	0,3 0,3	within 0.8 within 0.8				within 0.8 within 0.8
Length tolerances, mm	EN 324-1	3	3	3				3
Width tolerances, mm	EN 324-1	3	3	3				3
Straightness, mm	EN 324-1	2	2	2				2
Right angle, mm	EN 324-2	1,5	1,5	1,5				1,5
Bending strength, N/mm²: longitudinal axis transverse axis	EN 310	>35 >17	>35 >17	22 11	20 10		18 9	22 11
Transverse tension, N/mm²	EN 310	>0,75	>0,75	0,34	0,32		0,3	0,34
Formaldehyde, mg/100g	EN 120
Swelling in 24 hours when completely immersed in water, %	EN 317	12	6	20				15

Features of use

Due to their practicality and excellent physical and technical parameters, oriented strand boards are used in various industries, including construction, furniture manufacturing, etc. At the same time, to the question: “OSB board, what is it?” we can answer that it is an easy-to-use, universal material that can be used both as an independent coating and as an auxiliary element for preparing the bases of various types of coatings for finishing.

It is good for internal lining various rooms, including balconies and loggias. In this case, the technical characteristics of the OSB 3 board best allow it to serve as a base for laying floor coverings various types, including tiles, laminate, linoleum and parquet board. In this case, the sheets are laid on wooden blocks, after which the working surface is finally leveled using a concrete screed (rarely used) or the finishing coating is immediately mounted on the sheets.

To ensure better strength and durability of the base under the floor covering made of OSB boards, you can use two layers of sheets, laying them offset, securing them together with adhesive and spiral and ring-type nails. When installing, be sure to leave small gaps between the plates to prevent their deformation during natural expansion during use.

Using OSB boards on the balcony when various types finishing has its own characteristics. For example:

When installing oriented strand boards under laminate, it is necessary to ensure the evenness of the surface at the joints of its sheets.
When laying under linoleum or carpet at the joints of the material, to ensure maximum evenness, you need to use sheets of minimal thickness, and treat the gaps with sealants.
When used as a stand-alone floor covering. Additional protection of the material from abrasion and wear is needed. To do this, after preliminary cleaning, it is coated with several layers of varnish.
Under ceramic tiles. The base of OSB boards must be completely motionless. Therefore, the sheets should be secured especially carefully, and install logs under them in smaller increments.

When installing a subfloor made of slabs OSB installation sheets are initially produced on the underside of the lag. Wherein:

The side of the slab facing the ground is treated with bitumen mastic.
Insulation is placed in the space between the joists, which must be covered with a layer waterproofing material(for example, glassine).
Another OSB board is attached to the top.

Which ones are used, as well as their features, read the review article on our website.

An example of installing an OSB board on logs is shown in the video.

OSB board photo

And here are several photographs on the topic of our article.

What is OSB, their advantages and disadvantages, types of oriented strand boards and rules for their selection, technology for installing panels on logs and concrete base, features of decorative finishing.

Pros and cons of flooring made from OSB panels

Every year the demand for OSB boards is growing, which is not surprising, because the material has the following advantages:

High level of panel strength. It is achieved due to the fact that in different layers of the board the chips are located perpendicularly. At making the right choice The thickness of the tiles will allow the structure to withstand large force loads.
Light weight of panels. The standard weight of a whole board is no more than 20 kilograms. You can lift such material yourself; you do not have to hire a special team.
The structure is elastic and flexible, which allows you to bend the boards without fear of them breaking. This is very convenient if you want to make floors from OSB boards with a rounded or other shape, as well as when working with uneven surfaces.
Panels are different high degree moisture resistance. This effect is achieved by treating the boards with resins. When compared with other wooden building materials, this board will deform less when in contact with water or moisture.
OSB is convenient and easy to work with. The panels can be installed using simple construction tools - a saw, drill and screwdriver. The cuts are smooth and require no additional processing. Various fasteners - nails and self-tapping screws - are well fixed on OSB. Installation of the slabs will not take much time.
The material has high thermal insulation performance. Since OSB boards contain more than 90% natural wood chips, they perform the function of floor insulation. Therefore, such a floor covering will not allow heat to quickly evaporate and will maintain a stable temperature in the room.
OSB provide good level soundproofing. The panels are multilayer, so they absorb any noise well.
Resistance to chemicals due to resin treatment.
Particle boards are environmentally friendly. They are impregnated with special solutions that will prevent fungus or mold from forming on the boards.
OSB panels are budget and affordable.
OSB flooring perfectly levels the surface. The slabs can be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, creating an even coating on which the base can be laid on top finishing material.
They have a stylish wood-like color, so they do not require additional design processing.

The material does not have many disadvantages. Of these, the following can be noted: when cutting slabs, it is necessary to work in a mask or respirator, since wood shavings and dust are harmful to the respiratory system. Moreover, some types of low-quality panels can emit dangerous carcinogenic substances when working with them.

In addition, OSB subfloors may contain a synthetic substance such as phenol. But over the past few years, manufacturers have been actively solving this problem and switching to the production of formaldehyde-free panels. Such material is considered absolutely safe for human health. On its packaging you will find the “Eco” or “Green” label.

Main types of OSB for flooring

OSB is a panel consisting of three layers of wood chips, which are pressed and glued together in production using a waterproof resin. The direction of the chips inside the boards alternates: first along, then perpendicularly. Thanks to this arrangement, the plates are strong and hold the elements of the fastening system well.

Several types of OSB are used in construction work:

OSP-2. Such slabs have a low level of water resistance, so they are used only for interior decoration dry rooms.
OSP-3. These are universal boards. They endure high humidity both indoors and outdoors. The material is very dense, therefore it is used in construction work of any complexity.
OSB-4 panels. The most durable and moisture-resistant type of slabs. They are often used to create structures in rooms with high level humidity.

Features of choosing OSB slabs for flooring

The most versatile material for finishing the floor in a residential area is OSB-3 board. It is recommended to choose products manufactured by Western European manufacturing companies. Such panels meet European quality standards and have high density.

The thickness of OSB boards for flooring can vary, but in order for the panels to retain heat well, perform soundproofing functions, and also level the surface, it is recommended to choose products eight to ten millimeters thick. When installing boards on joists, the recommended panel thickness is 16-19 mm. OSB-3 boards can withstand various power loads and people’s movements well.

To properly smooth out small defects in the flooring, it is enough to use a material ten millimeters thick. If the floor has strong bumps and cracks, then slabs of 15-25 mm will be required.

OSB boards are often used for flooring under linoleum, parquet, tiles or laminate. This material serves as a high-quality and solid foundation under a decorative coating.

Technology for installing OSB boards on logs

The choice of material and floor design depends on the purpose of the room and its characteristics. As a rule, two main types of laying OSB boards are used - on logs and directly on a concrete screed.

Advantages and disadvantages of fastening OSB panels to joists

This option for installing a subfloor is quite simple; you can do it yourself in a few days. OSB panels are dense, resistant to crumbling, moisture resistant, are not afraid of contact with biological and chemical substances and, most importantly, are perfectly attached to the bars.

Floors made from OSB slabs on joists are an excellent alternative to concrete screed. This installation allows you to save money on building materials. In addition, the surface can be easily insulated, and wiring communications will not cause problems - they can simply be placed in the cracks between the wooden blocks.

The advantages of laying OSB on logs include the fact that with their help, foundations are perfectly leveled even with the most sudden changes. The result is a smooth surface, and the floor structure is not weighted. If some panels become unusable, they can be easily replaced.

The only disadvantage of this installation method is that the entire structure turns out to be quite high, about 90-95 mm, and this will make the room lower.

Preparatory work before laying OSB on logs

The beginning of installation work is the preparation of the foundation. First of all, we inspect the floor for damage, cracks, chips, depressions, mold and mildew. If large defects are found, they should be removed before laying the logs. Minor imperfections can be left, since the height of the joists will hide them in any case.

Mold and mildew must be removed without fail. If this is not done, microorganisms will attack the logs, and over time, the OSB boards. This will lead to premature damage to the floor covering. All debris from the floor surface should be removed.

Logs can be installed on a sloping floor, but the maximum slope level should be 0.2%. To determine the angle, you must use a water level or a long level. If too large slopes are found, they should be leveled using a self-leveling mixture.

Procedure for installing floor joists

The dimensions of the beams for joists are always calculated based on individual measurements. In this case, the products must be of the same dimensions.

After they are prepared, we proceed to installation according to this scheme:

We install wooden beams along the entire perimeter of the room, fixing them at the same distance from each other - 40 centimeters.
The distance between the wall and the material should be no more than twenty centimeters.
We attach the logs to the base of the floor with bolts or self-tapping screws.
The upper surfaces of the logs must be in a strictly horizontal plane. Their evenness should be periodically checked with a building level.
If the room is sufficiently damp, then the beams must be treated protective equipment from mold and mildew.
If necessary, we place insulation in the gaps.

How to attach OSB to joists

To lay OSB panels on the floor, you will need construction tools such as a tape measure, hammer, water level, jigsaw and hammer drill. Also, for the installation process, prepare special fastening systems for woodworking and a nail puller.

Oriented strand boards with plain edges should be laid on the floor. It would be good if there were grooves on them that would help fasten the panels together. To correctly calculate the required number of sheets, take into account the fact that seven percent of the material will be lost during cutting.

It is quite easy to install OSB floors yourself using the following instructions:

We lay the slabs across the joists.
The seams between the panels should be minimal and run clearly in the center of the joists. A distance of about two millimeters should be left between the OSB so that the floor does not deform over time and begin to creak.
We leave a larger gap between the OSB board and the wall - 12 millimeters.
We fix the panels to the beams using self-tapping screws or nails (ring, spiral).
The pitch of fasteners along the sheet should be about 15 millimeters. On additional supports - 30 millimeters.
We place the fasteners that hold the slab around the perimeter at a distance of about 1 centimeter from the edge. This is necessary so that it does not crack.
The length of screws or nails should be 2.5 times greater than the thickness of the slab.
The gaps formed between the walls and the rough flooring must be filled with construction foam or mineral wool.

Thus, using OSB boards laid on logs, you can prepare a rough base for further laying parquet, tiles or carpet on it.

Laying OSB panels on a concrete screed

The procedure for installing OSB boards on a concrete floor is preceded by a preparatory stage. Debris and dust must be removed from the base. For the glue to adhere well, the surface must be clean. Cover the base with primer. It will help the glue to better adhere to the panels, and will also prevent the screed from “dusting” during operation.

We lay the panels on the floor surface. If necessary, I trim the OSB using a jigsaw or saw.
Next on inner side Apply glue to the plates. To ensure that the product is evenly distributed over the surface, use a notched spatula.
We glue the particle boards onto the concrete base. Additionally, they can be secured using driven dowels, which should be placed every half a meter.
Between each slab we leave an expansion joint two millimeters thick.
The gap between the walls in the room and the wooden boards is no more than 13 mm. These seams are necessary to ensure that during operation of the coating, swelling does not form due to temperature and humidity changes.
The last stage of installing OSB boards on the floor is cleaning the panels from debris. We also seal all the resulting seams using polyurethane foam. It dries in three to four hours. Remove excess foam from the coating with a sharp knife.

Decorative finishing of floors made of OSB boards

After the installation of OSB boards on the floor is completely completed, you can begin finishing the floor covering. If you plan to leave such a floor as the main one, then, as an option, the surface can be completely covered with varnish or paint, and skirting boards can be installed around the perimeter.

No additional preparation of OSB for painting is necessary. You just need to clean the floor from dust and cover it with a couple of layers of varnish or paint. This can be done either with a roller or with a spray. Hard-to-reach places should be painted with a brush.

There are panels that cost more, but they are already available with a glossy sheen. Finishing such a covering will be very simple: you just need to decorate the perimeter of the room with a plinth - and that’s it, the floor is ready for use.

If you are laying on top of slabs rolled materials, for example, carpet or linoleum, then make sure that all joints between OSB panels are flush with the entire surface and do not stick out anywhere. Any small irregularities can be removed using sanding paper. The expansion gaps must be filled with elastic sealant.

There is no need to prepare panels for laying laminate over OSB. Small irregularities at the joints will be leveled out by the substrate.

How to lay OSB on the floor - watch the video:

Installation of OSB boards is a way to inexpensively and efficiently level a concrete base. And if there is a need, then create a floor from scratch, securing the panels to the joists. This coating does not require expensive finishing or impregnation with moisture-resistant solutions, and you can even install it yourself.

Have you ever wondered why the housing problem has long been solved in America? It’s simple, they build frame or panel prefabricated houses en masse, such buildings are cheap, and the time from “start to housewarming” is only two weeks. The housing problem in our cities was solved in a similar way when panel houses were built in the 60s. But in those days, the state was not involved in construction in the villages; no one used accelerated technologies for low-rise buildings. Nowadays, everyone takes care of their housing on their own, which is why frame and panel houses have become so widespread.

By all operational characteristics frame houses fully meet the most modern requirements. Except one. On TV we are often shown the aftermath of a tornado in America, with many wooden structures, entire cities are wiped off the face of the earth. And all because they have most of the houses frame type, such houses cannot withstand hurricane gusts of wind. But don’t worry, we don’t have and won’t have a tornado, this drawback can be ignored.

Sheathing methods frame houses

What is a frame house? A frame of wooden beams is assembled, applied or edged timber made of pine and spruce, insulation is made, the internal and external surfaces of the walls are sheathed various materials. For these purposes, plasterboard can be used, plywood, boards, plastic panels and OSB boards. We will focus on the last material (OSB boards). We'll tell you about the technology, you'll get a few practical advice how to do such work quickly and efficiently minimal costs financial resources.

Selection of slabs

We recommend working with 12mm thick boards, but you can use thicker or thinner ones. While we advise you to heed our advice: thinner ones are a concern for durability, thicker ones will cost you dearly.

The slabs must be dry; for long-term storage it is necessary to use a shed. Work should only be carried out in dry weather. The number of slabs is determined based on total area walls of the building, it is not very difficult to carry out calculations. However, it must be borne in mind that the amount of unproductive waste will always be at least 10%. The more complex the architectural characteristics of the house, the more waste there will be, keep this in mind when purchasing materials.

General cladding rules

There are many various options finishing of frame houses, both interior and façade walls. We will consider only one of these options - covering external facade walls with OSB boards. How will you sheathe interior spaces- doesn't make much difference.

Can be mounted in a vertical or horizontal position, leave a gap of 2÷3 mm between the plates. To facilitate the process of setting the gap, you can use a simple device. Find any plastic strip of similar thickness and use it as a template; after fixing the slab, the strip is removed and used when fixing the next slab.

The distance between the stops of the slab should be 40÷60 cm. This must be kept in mind during the construction of the frame; it is best to use mineral or glass wool as insulation. Fasten the slabs using spiral or ordinary nails, self-tapping screws and other hardware. The length is selected taking into account the thickness of the slab, but it should be borne in mind that the nail must enter the body of the beam to a depth of at least 40 mm. It is desirable that the caps of the fasteners have an increased diameter.

Nails should be driven in ≈ 30 cm from each other; in places where sheets join, nails should be driven in at a distance of ≈ 15 centimeters. The distance from the edge of the slab to the nail must be ≥ 1 cm.

Frame house cladding technology

Initial data - the foundation has already been completed, the lower piping row has been laid, mounted vertical racks along the corners and perimeter of the frame house.

We recommend starting the installation of the first OSB sheet from the corner of the house. Fasten it level to the corner posts of the house, and immediately fasten the second sheet to the other side of the corner. While performing work, carefully check their position with a level. If you make a mistake of a few millimeters on the first sheet, then on the opposite corner your millimeters will turn into centimeters. It is very difficult to correct such an error. To fully guarantee the accuracy of covering walls with sheets, we advise you, as in many cases during construction work, to use strong ropes stretched along the walls. They will help you accurately maintain the parallelism of the sheet installation lines.

Carry out the fastening in a circle, leaving space for window and door openings. Do not forget that the sheet must be reinforced along the entire perimeter of the openings; in some cases, additional beams or special load-bearing racks will have to be installed for these purposes.
Upholstering a house with slabs from the corner significantly simplifies and speeds up the construction process - there is no need to install longitudinal jibs. In the future, these cuts will still have to be removed - extra costs time and material. But you can’t do without temporary cross braces, otherwise the frame will be too unstable.
To facilitate the process of attaching OSB () to the bottom trim, we recommend securing a block small sizes at the junction of two large OSB sheets, after which you can fasten the sheet to the vertical posts with screws or nails. If you have problems with horizontality, on some sheets you can “sacrifice” the gap, make it a little larger or completely eliminate it. If this defect is on 3-4 sheets, then there is no need to be afraid of any deformation due to linear expansion of the OSB sheets.
Work in a circle from bottom to top.

Install internal racks load-bearing walls only when at least three walls of the house frame are assembled and covered.

Finishing of sheets can be done in any way. But we would advise you to further protect them plastic panels or siding - this will significantly increase the service life of the entire building.

Today, frame houses are especially popular. This is explained by the fact that they are erected quite easily and in a short time. The result is a full-fledged building that has a certain strength and good thermal and soundproofing properties. When building a frame house Special attention pay attention to its lining. In this article we will look at how to properly sheathe a frame house with smallpox panels from the outside in stages.

Advantages of OSB panels

OSB panels are popular building material, which is used in the construction of frame houses. They are used for internal and external cladding of walls and roofs. The plates have certain advantages, which include:

strength of the material. Plates are produced with different strength indicators, which significantly affects their cost;
moisture resistance, which makes it possible to use the material for cladding the outside of a frame house in regions with moderate humidity;
the versatility of the slabs is explained by the fact that they are used both for external cladding and for interior decoration;
the strength and reliability of the slabs allows the finishing of the facade to be applied on top of them;
environmental friendliness.

Having such advantages, OSB boards have become the most common material used for cladding frame houses.

Sheathing features

So, as has already been determined, OSB boards are most often used for cladding houses built according to frame technology. In order to carry out high-quality and durable finishing of the house outside, it is necessary to correctly select and install slabs. When purchasing slabs, you need to pay attention to their appearance. If possible, you can familiarize yourself with the quality certificates that responsible manufacturers and sellers have.

As for the installation of slabs, it is worth paying attention to the following nuances:

work should be carried out in dry weather, which will prevent the finishing material and insulation from getting wet;
at installation work Particular attention is paid to the locations of fasteners. They should be located 1 cm from the edge. This will prevent the material from splitting when installing it;
if we are talking about the cladding of a two-story building, then the slabs are positioned so that the ceiling is in the middle;

In construction and renovation, various sheet materials are often used to cover walls and ceilings. One of these materials is oriented strand board (OSB), also sold under the English name OSB (Oriented Strand Board).

OSB: what is it and how to use it

OSB is made from wood chips and large shavings, gluing them at high temperatures with synthetic resins.

The slab consists of several layers, usually 3-4, with different orientations of the chips.

In the outer layers, the chips are located along the long side of the sheet, in the inner layers - across. According to its characteristics, OSB is close to plywood, but costs less.

Benefits and Features

A distinctive feature of OSB is its high strength due to the cross arrangement of wood fibers. The strength of the boards is superior to MDF, chipboard and wood, slightly inferior to plywood. The boards show high resistance to chemicals. Some manufacturers use special impregnations in the production of slabs - fire retardants, which reduce the flammability of the material. OSB boards are easy to process; to work with them you will need ordinary woodworking tools.

How OSB boards are calculated

There are mainly 2 standard sizes of slabs: 2440*1220 mm (American standard) and 2500*1250 mm (European). There are OSB in other sizes, but they are much less common and are produced mainly to order.

To calculate the quantity, the easiest way is to draw a wall plan on checkered paper, taking the size of the box to be 250 for European standard slabs or 300 mm for American ones. Then draw OSB boards on the plan and count their number. It is better to arrange the sheets in a checkerboard pattern. In this case, you need to take into account how the surface will be finished in the future.

If you plan to cover, for example, with siding on the street or gypsum board indoors, joining with non-factory cuts is allowed, but if painting is planned, try to join the slabs with factory cuts. It is advisable to reduce the number of joints to a minimum. For example, it is better to sew up a fragment of a wall measuring 2.4 m by 1.2 m with one sheet, and not with 3 pieces of 0.8 * 1.2 m, because it is ideal to produce smooth cut quite difficult, and even a slight deviation from straightness forms a gap. To the received amount of OSB you need to add several sheets as a reserve in case of defects or errors during cutting.

An easier way is to divide the surface area by the leaf area. In this case, “in reserve” it is necessary to take at least 20% of the quantity. Round the resulting number up.

What kind of OSB boards are there for external walls?

OSB is made in 4 types:

OSB-1 - used only in dry rooms for cladding.
OSB-2 – used as a construction material in dry rooms.
OSB-3 – can be used both indoors and outdoors. Can be used in conditions with high humidity. Strength allows the use of OSB-3 as a structural material.
The most common class is OSB-4 - more durable and moisture resistant than OSB-3.

For cladding external walls, only classes 3 and 4 can be used.

External installation: lathing

External wall cladding can be carried out in several cases:

In order to level existing walls, hide defects (cracks, crumbling plaster, etc.) and simply as cladding.
In frame construction - to protect the insulation from wind and precipitation, and also as an element of the supporting system.
When insulating walls - to protect the insulation from atmospheric phenomena.

In all 3 cases, OSB sheets are attached to the sheathing. The sheathing is made from wooden lumber of various sections, depending on the task. Unplaned timber is most often used coniferous species natural humidity with a cross section of 50*50 or 40*50 mm. OSB can be attached to a metal frame.

When insulating, the sheathing is performed in steps that are a multiple of the width of the insulation minus 20 mm, without insulation - the step is chosen so that the joints of the sheets fall on the beam; several additional racks are added between the joints with a distance between them of at least 600 mm.

When covering walls, use a moisture-proof film, following the recommendations of its manufacturer, in particular, the distance between the membrane and the OSB.

How to attach panels to the wall

OSB boards are usually attached to the wall through the sheathing using wood screws when using bars in the frame or metal when attaching to a frame made of metal profile. The length of the screw should be 25-45 mm.

It is allowed to mount OSB directly to the wall. To do this, holes are drilled in a sheet cut to size, the sheet is installed in place, the wall is drilled in the designated places with a hammer drill, dowels are inserted and screws are tightened. When attached to wooden base The hardware is screwed in without pre-drilling.

Fasten the screws in one selected direction, for example, from left to right, from bottom to top, otherwise the OSB sheet may bend.

How to decorate the outside beautifully from osb

OSB has a rather interesting texture, which leaves many finishing options. At the same time, you need to remember that OSB consists of 90% wood, so the material is subject to the same dangers as wood. Fungus and mold may appear on the slabs, they are to a small extent susceptible to rotting, the resin can be destroyed under the influence of sunlight, and the ends of the panels absorb moisture.

OSB boards are treated with wood compounds for outdoor use. The composition must provide UV protection. To preserve color and texture, the surface is coated with colorless varnish and antiseptic impregnations, to impart woody shades - with decorative antiseptics, for painting in various colors – facade paints for wood.

To obtain a smooth surface, OSB walls are plastered and puttied. Before applying plaster, the surface of the slab must be protected from moisture with special primers or glassine, then fixed plaster mesh and plastering. Can be applied decorative plaster or painting.

Also, OSB walls can be covered with any type of siding or facade panels, block house, clapboard, etc.

OSB material for interior work

OSB is used indoors for cladding walls, ceilings, for constructing subfloors, as a structural material in the manufacture of built-in furniture, to create decorative elements, boxes, technological cabinets. IN frame housing construction interior lining OSB walls increase the strength of the structure.

Work progress

Sheathing OSB walls consists of the following steps:

Marking.
Lathing device.
Laying heat and sound insulation, if provided for by the project.
Fastening solid OSB sheets.
Sawing OSB to size.
Fastening the remaining sheets.

Tools

To cover OSB walls you will need:

Hacksaw, circular saw or jigsaw for cutting material.
Screwdriver.
Level.
Marking tool (tape measure, square, pencil).
Perforator for covering brick walls.
Chisel.

Interior finishing options

The unusual structure of OSB allows you to create a rather attractive interior. The slabs can be used without finishing, but it is better to coat them with varnish to improve operational properties. OSB can be painted with wood paints or treated with decorative wood impregnations. To obtain a smooth surface, the panels need to be puttied with wood putty, after which they can be painted or covered with wallpaper.

How to properly make lathing for osb

When installing sheathing from bars, first attach the beam around the perimeter, then install vertical posts with a pitch of 406 mm with a sheet width of 1220 mm and 416 mm with a sheet width of 1250. If you need to join the sheets in height, a horizontal bar is attached at the junction.

The bars are attached to the wall in 2 ways:

Directly through the block. When attaching to concrete, brick, cinder block and aerated concrete walls, holes are drilled in the blocks along the diameter of the dowel in increments of 300-400 mm, the block is placed against the wall, holes are drilled in the wall using a hammer drill through the prepared holes, dowels are inserted and screws are tightened or anchors are used. It is more convenient to first secure the block along the edges, after which you can not hold it and calmly fasten it at the remaining designated points. When attaching to wooden walls, the block is tightened with self-tapping screws without drilling holes. It is better to use “white” or “yellow” self-tapping screws, because If the “blacks” use too much force, the cap breaks off and it is very difficult to remove such a self-tapping screw. To adjust the frame vertically, wood linings are used.
On galvanized corners or U-shaped fastening profiles. In this case, first mark the position of the bars, install the fastening elements according to this marking, then attach the beam with self-tapping screws.

When using a metal profile for the frame, a guide profile is attached around the perimeter, and a rack profile is attached to the plane. The profile is fastened to the wall using special hangers.

Racks and guides on the walls must be strictly vertical!

Is frame sheathing with OSB sheathing inside required?

OSB boards can be mounted directly on the wall, but it is better to use lathing. This will allow you to correct the slope or curvature of the wall, lay mineral wool to improve heat and sound insulation. The lathing also creates an air cushion, due to which the space between the wall and the OSB board is ventilated.

Installation of OSB boards

OSB is fastened with the long side vertical to reduce the number of horizontal joints. When attaching the first sheet, you should control its level position, otherwise gaps may appear in the corners of the walls. Otherwise, the fastening rules are the same as for outdoor work.

What should be the thickness

OSB comes in different thicknesses: 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 15, 18, 22, 25 mm.
Sheets with a thickness of 6 and 8 mm are used for cladding ceilings and structures that are not subject to mechanical load. OSB boards 6 mm thick can be used for curved surfaces with a large radius of curvature.

Slabs with a thickness of 9-12 mm are the main cladding material for cladding walls and ceilings both outside and inside premises, for constructing continuous sheathing under the roof.

Material with a thickness of 18 mm or more is used for the manufacture of furniture, load-bearing structures and subfloors.

Work examples

Attic lined with OSB

Built-in OSB shelving

Relaxation corner made of OSB

Putty on OSB

Operation of OSB finishing: features

Walls made of OSB boards do not require any special care; it is enough to follow the rules common to wooden surfaces, for example, avoid prolonged exposure to moisture.

OSB is a modern high-tech material, with correct installation able to last for many years.