How to waterproof the floor on an open balcony. How and how to waterproof a balcony

IN modern apartment a balcony or loggia often serves as a room suitable for a comfortable stay for residents at any time of the year. To do this, a balcony frame with multi-chamber double-glazed windows is installed in the room, a roof is installed, which is then insulated along with the floor and walls.

To give an aesthetic appearance, the inner surface of the balcony is trimmed or sheathed with building materials, while many of them lose their quality and their appearance when exposed to water or in conditions of high humidity.

Therefore, when carrying out exterior finishing of loggias and balconies, increased attention should be paid to protection from moisture - waterproofing, the violation of which can lead to damage to finishing materials and, as a result, financial losses.

Rice. 1 Options for interior decoration of balconies and loggias

When answering the question of why and why moisture protection is needed on loggias and balconies, it is necessary to take into account that damaged waterproofing of loggias and balconies can lead to the following unpleasant consequences:

  • Loss of quality of finishing materials due to constant exposure to liquid - warping and twisting of wooden frames made for fastening PVC panels, cracking of plaster, peeling of tiles, swelling of the laminate, leaking of the hatch on the balcony.
  • The formation of fungus and mold, damaging the finish and worsening the appearance of the room.
  • Accelerated corrosion of steel finishing parts and internal load-bearing reinforcement of concrete slabs located in a closed, humid environment without access to air.

Rice. 2 Waterproofing the loggia from the inside during insulation

Main types of waterproofing materials for household use

Waterproofing of balconies or loggias is carried out using materials that differ from each other in their chemical and physical parameters, application methods and cost; depending on the application technology, they can be divided into several groups.

Backfill

This type of waterproofing is mainly used when carrying out construction work V basements to isolate the floor from soil moisture. On the balcony, it is better to place loose waterproofing in special formwork guides and, after application, cover it with a cement-sand screed for fixation. Betonite clay is used as an insulating material. perlite sand, crushed polystyrene foam, glass wool, industrial waste in the form of ash and slag (expanded clay).

Painting (coating)

TO this species include varnishes and paints for wooden floors, epoxy, polymer and bitumen mastics for hot and cold application for sealing wood and coating concrete surfaces. Usually applied with a brush or roller, after hardening they form a sealed and elastic water-repellent film; an example of a material of this type is Technikol mastic.

Rice. 3 Waterproofing a wooden floor in a country house with varnish

Impregnating

Substances deep penetration are absorbed deep into the surface up to several tens of centimeters and form crystals there that repel moisture and allow air to pass through. Hydrophobic liquids resist capillary penetration and can be applied by spray, brush or roller methods, one example being well known in construction industry Penetron, as well as Monolit-20M, Granit-28, Aqua-Top and others.

Pasting

This type includes rolled materials - roofing felt, roofing felt, polymer-bitumen sheets and tapes (Titan, Nicoband). The material is laid out overlapping on the surface, the seams are sealed with glue or heated bitumen. Insulation is difficult to apply - it requires a burner to heat the joints and skills in working with rolled bitumen materials.

Rice. 4 Waterproofing the balcony in wooden house using insulation

Cast

They are polymer resins that are poured onto concrete surface in a heated or normal state, these include ordinary resin and modern materials(Drizoro Maxelastic Pur). Polyurethane resins cover the surface without seams and are effective in waterproofing not only concrete, but also metal surfaces.

Dry mixes

The most popular class of waterproofing materials, widely used in the construction industry and allowing for good insulation. Dry mixtures are supplied in paper bags and before use are mixed with water using a construction mixer, just like regular mortars for plaster and screeds. Applied to the surface using a spatula, brush or roller, after hardening they form a durable water-repellent film. The most famous dry waterproofing mixtures are Ceresit, Knauf, NTs.

Rice. 5 Waterproofing the balcony canopy with sealing materials

Waterproofing balcony floor

When choosing waterproofing for a balcony under tiles if you apply it yourself, you should take into account many factors - the cost of the material, the complexity of applying the coating, the need special tool, degree of protection from moisture penetration from below the slab. If waterproofing is carried out open balcony, the range of operating temperatures of the material is taken into account. For household use, dry mixtures that meet the specified requirements are best suited, and unlike common bitumen resins, after drying, you can walk on the insulation without consequences.

The only problem during application is the need to thoroughly mix the dry mixture with water, which cannot be achieved without a construction mixer. The way out may be to use a household drill or hammer drill and an inexpensive commercial whisk for mixing. The process of waterproofing a balcony floor consists of the following work:


To perform the work efficiently, you should use only clean containers, otherwise individual fragments of frozen building materials will compromise the integrity of the insulation. All dry mixtures are mixed twice with a break of up to 10 minutes to activate the binding components. The time for using the finished solution is limited and usually does not exceed one hour until completely dry.

After preparing the mixture, part of it is poured onto the floor and spread over the surface with a flat spatula 200 - 300 mm wide, the procedure is repeated until the surface to be treated is completely covered. When applying, you must ensure that there are no gaps on the floor.

Typically, the waterproofing coating is applied in one layer; to improve its quality and density, a thicker consistency of the solution can be used within acceptable deviations. The areas where the waterproofing tape meets the floor are especially carefully coated - all cracks must be closed.

Coating the floor with waterproofing mastic

Mastics are the most budget view insulating floor covering, the material is supplied ready-made, work is carried out at a temperature environment more than 15 C and humidity from 60%. For normal polymerization, these climatic conditions must be maintained for 12 hours after work.

After preparing and priming the surface, mastic is applied to it using a wide brush; if the solution thickens, you can use a spatula. The hardening time depends on the thickness of the applied layer and is usually at least 2 days from the moment of application.

Rice. 8 Applying mastic to the floor

Waterproofing walls

To protect walls from moisture, methods similar to concrete floor– after cleaning and priming the surfaces, they can be coated with mastics or hardening mixtures. A good way to seal a wall is to waterproof balcony slabs when insulating a loggia or balcony with a sticker of foiled polystyrene foam (Isolon), which is also a sound insulator. Before installing it concrete slab better soak hydrophobic composition(Litsil, AVIS, Litos, Aquabarrier).

Rice. 9 DIY waterproofing on a balcony in a wooden house

Moisture protection for balcony ceilings

Ceilings on balconies can be ready-made in the form of concrete floor slabs or installed during glazing by specialists in the installation of balcony frames. For moisture protection of plastic or wooden balcony Depending on the type of roof, different methods are used.

  • When insulating a concrete ceiling slab, exterior coating methods outside the balcony are mainly used. For these purposes, it is more practical to use adhesive sheet or roll materials based on bitumen, which are laid on the surface ceiling slab overlap and are connected to each other by heating the seams gas burner or powerful construction hairdryer. To increase the tightness of the coating, the joints are additionally filled with liquid bitumen.
  • If a light roof made of profile sheets, metal tiles or plastic is insulated from moisture on the balcony, when carrying out external work outside the balcony room, methods similar to protection from moisture are used concrete ceiling. Waterproofing a balcony ceiling from the inside or from neighbors above includes coating it with bitumen mastic or gluing it with Vibroplast strips.

Rice. 10 Waterproofing the balcony roof from the outside during insulation

Do-it-yourself internal waterproofing of a balcony is quite simple - it does not require the use of special tools or professional construction skills. To protect floors from moisture on an insulated or open balcony, it is more practical and easier to use dry mixtures; walls can be treated or coated with any water-repellent compounds and materials (mastics, impregnations, synthetic films). It is best to protect the balcony ceiling from moisture with mastics or rolls. self-adhesive materials bitumen-based, sealant can be used to seal cracks.

Waterproofing a balcony allows you to increase the service life of power structures used in aggressive environments by one and a half times. In 95% of cases, the base of this room is a concrete slab. On the middle floors, each owner adds another slab of the same material as a ceiling.

Waterproofing a balcony with your own hands ensures a reduction in the repair budget. By following the recommendations of specialists, you can avoid mistakes and ensure high quality insulation layer, increase living comfort.

Why do you need waterproofing of a balcony?

The porous structure of reinforced concrete in combination with metal embedded elements and reinforced belts inside the structure contribute to a reduction in service life. Water trapped in pores negative temperatures expands, breaking off pieces, creating microcracks. Metal elements begin to deteriorate from corrosion.

Therefore, high-quality waterproofing of a balcony is a technology for the complex creation of a continuous layer across all structural elements.

Protection is necessary for each of them:

  • slabs - double-sided processing of upper/lower slab
  • parapet - a combination of hydro and vapor barriers
  • visor or roof - protection rafter system special compounds

Waterproofing the loggia from the inside allows you to protect the power structures from the moisture contained in the air of the apartment/cottage. It solves exactly half the problem, leaving the outer part of the slabs and parapets open to precipitation. Primers for deep penetration internal application cannot penetrate the entire thickness of reinforced concrete.

View short video will allow us to clarify important points, avoid serious mistakes. The work is quite accessible to home handyman, the specialist consultations given below will allow you to plan efficiently, reduce the repair budget, and save time.


Materials used

The loggia is waterproofed special materials- deep penetration primers. They are usually produced in the form of dry or ready-to-use mixtures that reliably clog the pores of structural materials, eliminating capillary suction of moisture from the air and aggressive environments in which operation occurs. Products lead the ranking of waterproofing materials domestic manufacturer Penetron:

  • Penecrit mixture - processing of joints, crevices, cracks
  • Penetron material- application of a continuous layer after pre-treatment of critical areas with the previous solution
  • butyl tape - self-adhesive modification of Keramix for processing the perimeter of the loggia

The first material improves the characteristics of critical areas, seals joints and abutments. The second mixture is applied to the slabs and the vertical surfaces are treated. Waterproofing a balcony in a wooden house, according to metal structures can be produced with the same compositions.

When insulating a loggia, waterproofing should be used in conjunction with a vapor barrier. The first layer is necessary to remove moisture condensed on the surface of the waterproofing. The second layer prevents the saturation of basalt wool or extruded polystyrene foam with water vapor contained in the room air.


Preparation for waterproofing

Before improving the characteristics of the load-bearing structures of the loggia/balcony, they must be prepared. For this purpose it is produced visual inspection, which makes it possible to identify loose, weak foundations and the degree of resource depletion of structural materials.

Do-it-yourself waterproofing of an open balcony begins with removing dirt, greasy stains, dust removal. After which, the perimeter is covered with butyl tape, half of the width of which is applied to vertical structures (parapet, side walls, panoramic glazing frames).

Further waterproofing of the floor on the balcony occurs in stages:

  • moistening - the slab is treated with a damp brush or roller
  • reinforcement of corners - in places where the slab meets vertical structures They are treated with a deep penetration primer and re-glued with Keramix tape.

The main task that waterproofing solves when insulating a balcony is to prevent moisture from penetrating into the heat insulation layer. When wet, some of them sharply increase thermal conductivity, negating the cost of insulation. For example, with every 2% increase in humidity, basalt wool loses up to 10% of its thermal resistance.

Loggia waterproofing technology

Surface treatment insulating materials is done in the following sequence:


Waterproofing an open balcony allows you to extend its service life flooring(usually porcelain stoneware or decking boards). Integrated glazing of all balconies of the building significantly increases the service life of the slabs, which receive reliable protection from precipitation. In this case, even without bottom coating bitumen mastics, primers, the slabs last longer, there is no cracking, corrosion of the reinforcing belt, embedded elements.

Waterproofing a wooden balcony is relevant in log, panel, panel, and half-timbered cottages. Most often, transparent compounds are used to preserve the unique texture of wood or wood-containing boards (OSB, chipboard).

When applying any waterproofing material on wooden structures, it is necessary to take into account that this reduces the vapor permeability of the building. Accordingly, the environmental friendliness of the home will be lower, however, it is sacrificed to increase the service life.

Structural differences between balconies/loggias

Despite the external similarity of the loggia and balcony, the design is sharply different in both cases:

  • the loggia slabs rest on the side walls, due to which their resource increases, it is possible to place a certain amount of furniture, attach the structure to interior spaces, high-quality insulation
  • balcony slab is a console, pinched at one end in brickwork outer wall, heavy parapets and glazing are inappropriate here triple glazed windows, economically ineffective insulation

Enormous heat losses are created through the lower and upper plates; when insulated, the owner receives a room the size of a shoebox worth the cost of a used car. The budget is wasted, the thickness of the floor, ceiling, parapet is increased, and strength is reduced power frame building.

Waterproofing the loggia floor is necessary in any case - both when choosing insulation and in its absence. Moreover, one balcony slab in multi-storey buildings operated by two neighbors:

  • for the lower owner it serves as a ceiling
  • the upper owner has sex

High-quality protection of a reinforced concrete structure is possible only with double-sided treatment with a deep penetration primer or covering with a membrane or rolled material. In practice, floors are usually waterproofed with membranes, ceilings are impregnated liquid formulations. Waterproofing of balconies and loggias is carried out regardless of the floor and ceiling coverings used. Vapor barrier should be used only if there is a thermal insulation layer.

On open balconies, waterproofing is a vital necessity, since the amount of precipitation in contact with the materials of the load-bearing structures increases sharply.

Waterproofing the balcony canopy helps prevent moisture from penetrating the glazing elements. It is especially important to coat the top seam when choosing wooden frames, for which professional builders The following materials are recommended:

  • impregnation - transparent modifications that preserve the texture of wood, emphasizing the pattern favorably
  • paint - oil or enamel
  • varnish - applied to previously treated with drying oil wooden elements after complete drying

Treatment wooden structures flame retardants, antiseptics, combined compounds (for example, Fire and Bioprotection) dramatically increase the service life of structures. Waterproofing the balcony from the inside must be combined with external protection parapet, slabs, canopy. Only in this case the service life will be maximum and there will be no need for operating costs or periodic repairs.

Sealing and waterproofing are mandatory measures that follow the repair of a balcony or loggia. When a balcony leaks and water pours inside it, the moisture causes damage to the internal surfaces and insulation, if any. This negates all efforts on insulation and finishing.

In this article we will discuss what actions can be taken to insulate balconies and loggias, and what materials can be used. In addition, you will learn about the necessary preparatory work.

Materials for waterproofing and sealing. Preparatory work

First, let's figure out what the difference is between waterproofing and sealing.

Waterproofing is the protection of the ceiling or balcony slab against leaks: sealing all cracks that may form at seams, joints and cracks. In addition, the concept of “waterproofing” also includes protection of the surfaces themselves from moisture using special coatings.

Sealing is the subsequent treatment of seams and joints with special sealing compounds that have undergone waterproofing procedures. All seams and gaps of the constructed glazing structure of a loggia or balcony are also treated. Next, we will tell you how to independently organize sealing and waterproofing of a balcony or loggia.

Materials for insulation and sealing

How to cover up or seal leaks? The most commonly used is the following:

  1. Elastic coatings - usually based on bitumen. Used as a waterproofing layer under rolls roofing materials.
  2. Polymer - made on the basis of polyurethane, have high elasticity. These are various mounting foams and sealing compounds.
  3. Rolled are materials for flat roof on a bitumen basis. Glassine, roofing felt and the like.

Preparatory work

Preparations for sealing are carried out simultaneously with preparations for balcony repairs. Speaking of the question “who should repair the balcony.” You can involve housing and communal services in repairing the balcony slab, but you will have to deal with its roof, walls and parapet yourself.

We inspect the surfaces: places where water flows are determined visually. The ceiling may show dried water stains, blistering paint, and/or traces of mold in areas of leakage. We will seal them. We are looking for the same thing on the bottom side load-bearing slab. Along the way, we examine it for destruction. Then we begin repair work.

Leak on the balcony: localization of places requiring waterproofing and sealing

During the repair process, we check the slope of the balcony slab. It should be 2-3 C° from the wall of the house. This will ensure water drainage and will not accumulate on the stove. If for some reason there is no slope, then we eliminate this drawback.

Mix a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 3/2, the screed should be thick enough and not spread. We spread the mixture onto the surface of the slab and distribute it using the rule so that the layer near the wall is thicker. Using a level, we check the resulting angle and adjust it to 2-3 C°. The thickness of the screed should not exceed 4-4.5 cm.

How to waterproof a balcony: organizing the slope of the slab

Note:when laying cement screed it is necessary to organize expansion joints where the slab meets the wall of the house. This will compensate for the expansion and contraction of the screed under the influence of temperature changes. The width of the seams should be 10-12 mm.

If the balcony is very long, then additional “forced” seams are made along the slope of the slab. On a narrow and long balcony they are located every three meters, on a wide one every 2m2. They can be made both when laying the screed layer, and cut after it hardens.

Do-it-yourself waterproofing of a loggia: expansion joint

Waterproofing and sealing

The work for open and closed balconies is different, so here we will describe them separately. A description of the roof insulation will also be given in a separate paragraph.

Insulation and sealing of an open balcony

After the screed has completely hardened (14 days), we will organize waterproofing of all seams with injection materials based on polyurethane. Alternatively, the seam can be sealed by inserting an elastic band into it. It is pressed into the seam, and everything is sealed with waterproofing compound on top. This is what it looks like:

Waterproofing a loggia with your own hands: laying an elastic cord in expansion joints

After the waterproofing has hardened, we begin sealing. The sealant is used in the same way as waterproofing, based on polyurethane, applied with a spatula. Next, the entire surface of the slab is coated with a composition that reduces water absorption by concrete.

Balcony sealing: fully sealed seam

We isolate a closed balcony or loggia

Sealing the seams of the load-bearing slab is done in exactly the same way as described above. We pass the seams of the walls and ceiling of the loggia that have cracks from the inside polyurethane foam. After it has completely hardened, remove excess material using a knife or metal spatula, and treat the seams with a sealing compound.

Waterproofing the balcony ceiling from the inside: foaming the cracks

In addition, a layer of waterproofing material is laid under the insulation of the loggia floor. For this purpose, special membranes or ordinary cellophane film are used. The material is laid with an overlap at joints of 15 cm and overlapping walls of 10 cm.

Waterproofing the loggia from the inside: laying the material

Waterproofing of the parapet and sides of the balcony is organized by laying a layer of material on the inside, under the insulation layer and Decoration Materials. For exterior finishing, a vapor barrier for the balcony is installed. If this is a loggia with a parapet and concrete walls, then we do not do a vapor barrier.

Note:You cannot lay a second layer of waterproofing when insulating. If water somehow gets inside, it will not be able to dry, which will lead to an increase in the thermal conductivity of the insulation and its further deterioration.

Now let's start sealing. We apply a special compound to all the joints and seams on the inside and outside of the balcony or loggia, which we have previously waterproofed. This is done using a spatula. Don't forget about the glazing of the balcony, Special attention When sealing, we pay attention to the places where the frames are attached to the parapet and roof.

We seal the balcony after glazing. In difficult places we use sealants in syringes

Work on sealing the roof of a balcony or loggia

If this is a balcony, then the roof is most likely based on metal or wooden frame. Everything is simple here. First, we apply a compound from the inside to seal the joints between the sheets of roofing material, then we lay a layer of waterproofing material under the sheathing.

DIY sealing and waterproofing: roofing

We foam the joint between the roofing material and the wall of the house from the outside, and after the material has dried, we coat it with a sealing compound. Next, we attach a strip of tin or aluminum above this joint, and also seal the connection between the metal and the wall.

How to eliminate the possibility of a balcony roof leaking: sealing the joints with the wall

The roof of the loggia, if it is a concrete slab, requires preliminary organization of a slope from the wall. This is done differently than in the case of the load-bearing slab of an open balcony. Further actions will be like this:

  • We lay a layer of vapor barrier.
  • A layer of insulation if further insulation of the loggia is planned.
  • Let's do cement-sand screed and apply a layer of bitumen waterproofing.
  • We lay roll roofing materials - some type of roofing felt.
  • Now an additional layer of roofing material.
  • Using self-tapping screws, we attach the edge strip 50mm wide. It should grip the edge of the roofing material.
  • The upper edge of the slats is treated with bitumen sealant.

What to do to seal and waterproof the loggia roof: roofing pie.

In cloudy weather you can see the balcony leaking and water flooding the floor. It seems that all our work has been done in vain. There is no need to despair, because everything can be fixed.

To do this, it is necessary to waterproof the balcony from the inside in parallel with its sealing. If you have a question - how to waterproof a balcony, loggia and seal it, in this article we will try to give you the most complete answer. In addition, you will find here not only answers to all your questions, but also detailed diagrams and illustrations. First, let's figure out what waterproofing is and why it is needed.

What is waterproofing

Waterproofing serves to protect building materials from water flowing through defects in seams reinforced concrete structures. Performed by applying materials various types on the surface of the floor, ceiling, vertical partitions balcony, loggia. If waterproofing is not carried out correctly, water gets inside the room on the loggia, ceiling covering, after which active leaks begin.

Traces of water exposure on concrete structures clearly visible on open balconies (especially on upper floors). The edges of the balcony slab are destroyed, the junction of the load-bearing slab with the house is completely crumbled in places. Therefore, we immediately conclude that waterproofing an open balcony is necessary.

Sealing and waterproofing a balcony with your own hands can be done with little construction experience. Let's consider the sequence in which waterproofing of balconies and loggias is carried out. Let us immediately note that waterproofing is carried out in parallel with sealing, which we will discuss below.

Waterproofing the balcony ceiling from the inside

We clean the top plate, which is the ceiling, from old plaster, we seal seams and cracks. We coat the entire ceiling with an antifungal antiseptic, for example, Belinka. We dilute a two-component polyurethane mastic (for example, Hyperdesmo), which forms a strong elastic seamless coating, which does not require preliminary leveling of the base.

After applying the first layer, we reinforce it with a mesh with a cell of 5x5 mm. Apply the second layer perpendicular to the dried first one. Let it dry completely waterproofing coating and then we begin work on . We glue foam sheets to the ceiling and fasten them on top vapor barrier film(for example, Izospan). . But this work is carried out when the waterproofing and sealing of balconies (loggias) is completely completed.

Applying waterproofing to the loggia ceiling

Waterproofing of walls, vertical partitions of balconies and loggias

We glue foil-coated polystyrene foam to the cleaned, antiseptic-coated walls - the most optimal material for vertical surfaces, which also serves as a vapor barrier for the balcony. We seal the joints between the sheets. Apply two layers of polyurethane mastic for waterproofing. Let's move on to processing the floor.

Waterproofing the loggia from the inside with a vapor barrier coating

Waterproofing the floor

Summarize. From our article you learned how important sealing and waterproofing balconies and loggias are. It's not very difficult to do these jobs. The main thing is accuracy and attentiveness.

First provides for waterproofing on the balcony along the screed, without a drainage mat, second with drainage.

Let's consider first circuit based on systems proposed by CERESIT and LITOKOL.

Balcony waterproofing scheme from Cerezite.

They have a lot in common. But there are minor differences:

  1. LITOKOL has LITOSIDE installed in the area where the screed joins the wall - a polyethylene tape for dividing seams in the screed. It is not included in the CERESET diagram. Its purpose is to compensate for linear expansion of the screed throughout the year.
  2. With LITOKOL, the bottom seam of the plinth on the wall is filled with polyurethane sealant, and CERESET is filled with silicone, and it is also applied to the upper end of the plinth. It’s hard to say how much he is needed there. The lower section of the seam will be movable. If you fill cement grout– then the seam will burst. It would be logical to fill it with sealant. Although, Kiilto also has a similar solution, filling the top of the baseboard with silicone.

There are no other differences. Excluding prices for all components of the waterproofing system and subsequent tiling.

Waterproofing scheme for open balconies from Litokol.

In such (first) system, the insulating layer may differ in the composition of the applied waterproofing. It could be:

  • Cement, one-component (as in the “CERESIT” and “LITOKOL” schemes discussed above) waterproofing.
  • Cement, two-component, with modifying additives.
  • Acrylic-based mastics or elastic liquid membrane.

Cement one-component waterproofing.

Cement one-component waterproofing.

The basis of all mixtures of this type of insulation is cement. Water is used for preparation. The preparation technology is similar to any mixtures - dosing water, double mixing. The base must be strong and moisturized (there is no primer for concrete bases, and this is typical for many single-component insulations).

Covers cracks up to 1 mm (mostly 0.75 mm)

The documentation for the use of this type of insulation lists terraces, balconies, horizontal surfaces and swimming pools.

Cement, two-component waterproofing, with modifying additives.

Cement two-component waterproofing

The second component in this insulation (elasticizer) is a polymer dispersion, a viscous milky-white liquid. It imparts high elasticity and bridges cracks with an opening of up to 2 mm. Compared to one-component ones, tensile elongation is up to 40%.

This group contains mixtures (BOTAMENT® MD 28) with good vapor permeability. They can be applied to a fresh concrete base without waiting for complete hardening.

Insulating mastics.

Ready-made insulating mastics.

This is a conventional group of insulating mastics, one-component, ready for use. Some of them, like MasterSeal, are based on a polymer acrylic dispersion. Among this group there are membranes for interior and exterior use. Some places of use are indicated with reservations - “cannot be used in swimming pools, underground, etc.”

This type of insulation is also called liquid polyurethane roofing membrane.

The mastic is based on a highly elastic polyurethane resin, which gives the product mechanical, thermal, chemical resistance, as well as resistance to UV radiation.

The list of possible uses of polyurethane mastic is impressive: “Waterproofing of green roofs, flower beds, flower boxes. Waterproofing old glassine and roofing felt. Waterproofing and protection of concrete buildings, tunnels, stadium stands, car parks.”

Outdoor polyurethane insulation.

In the case of fixing ceramic tiles to a membrane, last layer the insulation is sprinkled with coarse sand.

On smooth surfaces (ceramic tile) Pu Primer must be applied.

Problem areas - connections between walls and floors, 90 degree angles, pipes must be reinforced with mesh or fiberglass NPG 210.

Reinforcement of problem areas with fiberglass.


Second system Waterproofing balconies involves installing drainage after the insulating layer.

Its idea is based on the assertion that water penetrates through the seams in the tiles and accumulates on the waterproofing. If it is not removed, then in winter the tiles and adhesive with the insulation layer are destroyed. And in the summer this leads to the appearance of efflorescence on the tiles.

To confirm that the tiles are not a barrier to the penetration of water into the screed, video:

If the leveling screed is laid on a drainage mat, then the water that has leaked through the seams will flow to the floor drain. This solution prevents moisture from accumulating and freezing under the tiles.

In this scheme, the waterproofing sheet is placed under the drainage mat. In this scheme, the options for installing a waterproofing sheet are expanded - bituminous materials, pool films……

Waterproofing on the balcony with drainage.

A similar system appeared for the first time in 1985. Supporters of laying drainage under the screed consider an additional advantage of this scheme to be that the elastic structure of the mat absorbs all deformations in the balcony structure. In their opinion, this prevents the appearance of cracks in the screed and seams. Such mats have long been used in the West when laying tiles on wooden floors.

An interesting solution (without a drainage membrane) is in the next video. It’s worth examining it in detail after watching:

What is the difference from the generally accepted approach:

  1. Replacing a conventional screed with a semi-dry one. What gives?

Moisture that may get into the screed in the future will not break it when it freezes. This is the drainage that new technologies strive for, but is a less expensive option.

  1. The semi-dry screed is placed on the adhesive base. The glue creates reliable contact.

Thoughts out loud or what could be improved :

  • For screed, instead of sand, use screenings or very coarse sand. This will further increase the drainage capacity of the screed without reducing its strength.
  • Prepare the mixture composition as 1:2, or 1:1.7. Make the moisture content of the mixture a little higher than is generally accepted for semi-dry screeds (here is one of the reasons, unsuccessful examples of this method).
  • It is important to guess the humidity. When you squeeze the mixture into a fist, water should not come out, but your hand will become wet. Water in this composition is sufficient for a complete reaction of cement. In addition, wet glue is smeared on the base. The solution will additionally draw moisture out of the glue. This is more than enough.

If you cover the screed with film for 6-7 days, the strength will be the same as good concrete. But, at the same time, unlike concrete, there will be no damage due to freezing. The structure of such a screed is similar to the structure of limestone (or shell rock - one of the varieties). Stone buildings and limestone sculptures that are 200 or more years old have still survived (this feature needs to be examined separately and in detail).

Despite the drainage properties of the screed, there is waterproofing on top - an additional safety net.

And one more interesting detail - the adhesive grooves are directed along the possible drainage of penetrated moisture. Perhaps it random coincidence. But it's a good idea.

Naturally, there is a double coating of glue. If you adhere to the idea of ​​​​adhesive grooves along the drain, then applying the mixture to the tile should be “scraped”.

P.S.

Vulnerabilities remain:

  • There is no low tide.
  • The first damage is possible around metal racks (not always).

Eat similar ideas, but with additional (second) drainage system balcony insulation - laying paving slabs from natural stone on prancing with coarse sand (almost screening out granite chips).

More, interesting design with drainage for balconies was recently proposed at a presentation by the company MAPEI.

The role of drainage is performed by glue grooves applied with large-format teeth. Lightly press the mesh into the fresh glue using a large trowel:

Drainage from adhesive grooves.

If water is poured onto such a structure, it will flow through the drainage channels made of glue to the drainage gutter. The tiles are laid on the second day, applying glue to back side with a notched trowel and across the drainage channels:

  • Grouting joints with elastic grout Ultracolor Plus.
  • Laying around the perimeter, where the tiles adjoin gutter, cord made of pressed polyethylene foam Mapefoam.
  • Application over sealing cord silicone sealant Mapeisil LM.

Balcony waterproofing scheme from MAPEI.

In general, durability tiled cladding on the floor of open balconies and terraces - this is a problem. Increasingly, solutions are emerging not to glue the tiles, but to lay them dry, on a layer of crushed stone:

Laying slabs on the balcony floor without glue.

... Or, like a constructor with drainage under the structure (video):

Below is a collection of videos (playlist) on waterproofing open balconies.

The playlist displays the best twenty foreign videos on waterproofing balconies and is constantly updated.

or to the second channel with my video.