How to drain an area from groundwater. Do-it-yourself site drainage, how to drain a dacha from groundwater

There are many negative aspects that a summer resident has to face. Either the land is not fertile and the plants do not want to grow, then the summer drought destroys the entire harvest, or pests and diseases give no rest.

Some people have a steep slope and it takes a lot of time and effort to turn it into a comfortable and beautiful place. An equally important problem is flooding.

Only by taking measures aimed at draining the summer cottage can you get rid of this trouble. Today we will look at what needs to be done to do this in order to forget about excess hydration for a long time.

How to drain an area with your own hands? Basic methods

The degree of swampiness of an area varies and can be caused by various factors. For example, there is a case when excess moisture is largely due to the topography and type of soil. Those. water cannot leave the site along the natural slope. Then this slope must be created artificially by planning the territory. If necessary, bring in soil and fill in the excavations.

It happens that the water stands still only because you have heavy clay soil. In this case, if it is not possible to make a bedding, you need to arrange drainage. With its help, you can drain the swamp on the site. To complete the work, you will need some knowledge, competent calculations, and precise planning.

There are many companies that, for a fee, will perform not only calculations, but also all excavation and installation work. An alternative option is to do everything yourself, having first studied all the necessary information.

Moreover, water from the drainage system can flow into a reservoir, which is located at the lowest point of the dacha. The purpose of the reservoir can be any: for irrigation, a decorative structure with plants, etc.

Almost all methods of draining a garden plot involve draining water from the area. It’s just great if the water has somewhere to go from the site, but it happens that the dacha is located lower in relation to the surrounding area, or there are some structures (buildings, fences, etc.) in the path of the flowing water. In this case, water needs to be collected centrally. This can usually be done by installing a system of canals and ditches.

It is worth understanding that water must also leave the ditch, which is determined on site, depending on the location of neighboring areas. They dig it up in the lowest place.

If the area is more or less flat and has a clearly directed slope, then the ditch is placed along the fence in a low place, and it should have a width of about 50 cm and a depth of at least 1 m, and a length of 2-3 m. Under no circumstances should the excavated soil be removed; it is better to distribute it at the dacha in the lowest places.

Then, over the course of a year, the ditch must be gradually filled with various construction and other solid waste (broken bricks, stones, broken glass). It is laid quite tightly, and when the ditch is filled to the lower border of fertile soil, a similar ditch is dug nearby, which will be a continuation of the old one.

The removed plant soil from the new ditch is placed in the old one. By doing this, you will get a good drainage system around the perimeter of the site. You may have a question, why make a ditch (drainage) in the highest place? You don’t have to do this, but if your site is adjacent to this side of another one, located higher, then there is a point in such a closed ditch, because it will intercept water from the neighbors, not allowing it to flow through the entire dacha.

As you can see, in order to properly drain a wetland, you need to combine several methods. This includes bedding, drainage, and construction of ditches and canals. Another additional method, which is called biological, is to use moisture-loving plants that will absorb some of the moisture.

What plants can be used to drain the area?

Since the water level in wetlands is high, most plants will do poorly, especially those with tap root systems. The roots of such plants are located deep in the ground and under the influence of excess moisture and lack of oxygen they begin to rot.

You can plant such moisture-loving and well-known trees as willow, birch, maple. There are many beautiful forms and varieties of these plants, so they will not only absorb excess moisture, but will also become a beautiful decoration in your garden.

Spruce can be planted from conifers, whose roots are located close to the surface, however, it is better to play it safe and plant them on small mounds. A device around the perimeter of a hedge made of rose hips, hawthorn, and bladderwort will help drain the area.

Alder and poplar also grow well “in water”, but you are unlikely to want to have them on your site due to their low decorative value. In addition, poplar fluff causes allergies.

You can also plant mock orange, but if the area is very swampy, it is better to abandon these plants. Amur lilac can also withstand temporary flooding.

Fruit trees grow very poorly on waterlogged soils. Therefore, when purchasing, choose varieties whose rootstock has a superficial root system. It is better to plant them on specially constructed mounds about 50 cm high (in some cases – 1 m). Among the berry bushes, black currant feels good. Among the herbaceous plants, perennial asters, marsh iris, aquilegia and others are desiccant plants.

Excessive moisture has a bad effect on the condition of the soil, it becomes acidic. Therefore, any drainage also includes liming, which will help increase soil fertility.

In general, draining a plot of land with your own hands is not easy, but anyone can do it. It will take a lot of time and effort, but the result is worth the effort, because in the end, you do everything only for yourself and your family.

The problem of flooding and increased soil moisture is familiar to owners of plots located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnation of water after snow melts do not allow proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

In what cases is a drainage system necessary?

Drainage is a technology for collecting and discharging groundwater, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents leaching, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.

Arrangement of a drainage system is not necessary at every site. In order to determine how much your area needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and downpour.

If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

If visual confirmation is not enough, then you can conduct a simple experiment - using a hand drill or an ordinary shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the hole and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

• high groundwater table;
• the site is located in an area with clay soil;
• the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
• The location of the site receives a large amount of precipitation.

The presence of drainage helps preserve the finishing and facing materials used for laying garden paths, finishing the basement and façade of the building.

Types of dehumidification systems

There are a great variety of land drainage systems. Moreover, in different sources their classification may differ greatly from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.

Surface type drainage

Surface drainage is the simplest and most effective system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of rainfall and uneven melting of snow.

Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris

A surface drainage system is constructed across the area of ​​the site, around the house and adjacent buildings, near garage structures, warehouses and the courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subtypes:

1. Point - in some sources referred to as local drainage. Used to collect and drain water from a certain place on the site. The main area of ​​application is drainage of areas under drains, near entrance doors and gates, in the area where containers and watering taps are located. Often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
2. Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, ensuring a constant flow of water.

When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will ensure the system operates most efficiently. If necessary, point and linear drainage can be combined with the system described below.

Deep drainage

Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where constant drainage of the soil or lowering of the groundwater level is necessary. Drains are laid with a slope in the direction of water flow, which enters a collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80–150 cm. In cases where it is necessary to drain water from the foundation of a building, pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of ​​the site with a certain pitch. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their placement and the mechanical composition of the soil.

For example, when installing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil under the same conditions, the step between drains is reduced to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different laying depths can be seen in the table below. Information taken from the book “Draining land for gardens” by A.M. Dumblyauskas.

Depth of drains, m	Distance between drains, m
	Sandy soil	Loamy soil	Clay soil
0,45	4,5–5,5	4–5	2–3
0,6	6,5–7,5	5–6,5	3–4
0,9	9–11	7–9	4–5,5
1,2	12–15	10–12	4,5–7
1,5	15,5–18	12–15	6,5–9
1,8	18–22	15–18	7–11

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the area is relatively flat, then to impart a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 m is maintained.

When installing long drainage, a minimum slope along the entire length of the drainage route must be observed. For example, for a drainage system 15 m long, the minimum level difference between the starting and ending points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the stated slope standards. This will ensure faster drainage and reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring 1–2 cm.

Drainage in a summer cottage - the simplest methods with instructions

In order to independently drain a plot of land using a drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase the necessary materials, prepare tools and a place to perform the work.

Surface drainage of a summer cottage

Open surface drainage is a universal solution for draining small dacha plots. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can take the diagram below as a basis. It shows a herringbone-shaped drainage route. The distance between the drains, as stated above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system in a summer cottage

To carry out the work you will need a shovel and bayonet shovel, a tape measure, a bubble level, a hammer and a sharp construction knife.

The materials you will need to prepare are gravel of fraction 20–40, geotextiles, edged bars or boards 2–3 m long.

To construct surface drainage on a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more labor-intensive and requires the ability to work with concrete mixture.

Draining the area using deep drainage

Deep drainage is a standard solution for draining suburban and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective blind area, concrete or slab paths around the building. If necessary, they can be partially dismantled, but the overall structure will not be damaged.

An example of a drainage system project in a suburban area

1. Work on the construction of deep drainage includes the following:

   According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of the drainage pipes and determine the water discharge point, that is, the place from where the collected water will be drained into the sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline must be below the freezing level of the soil. For the North-Western region this value is about 60–80 cm.

2. Taking into account the plan, a trench is dug along the perimeter and area of ​​​​the site with a depth of up to 1 m. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections of the trenches are combined into a single system, which is brought to the water discharge point. After this, trenches are dug maintaining a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the drainage, the trenches are spilled with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.

   The pit for the drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site

3. At the lowest point of the site, a place is created for the installation of a water intake or filter drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clayey soil types, it is better to install storage type wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, you can use both storage and filter wells. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.

   A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer.

4. Fine gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. A geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After this, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
5. Modular inspection wells are installed at the drain turning points. The diameter and height of the well depend on the expected volume of wastewater. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.

   An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns

6. Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for functionality. To do this, a large volume of water is drained through drains. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can move on to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
7. A 20–30 cm layer of gravel of fraction 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After this, the drains with laid crushed stone are covered with geotextiles. A 10–15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured on top of the geofabric and thoroughly compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be filled with fertile soil or regular soil from the site.

Methods for drying an area without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnation of water in the area are not always associated with high groundwater levels. Sometimes this occurs due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy precipitation. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, and puddles and mold form on the soil surface.

Sanding clay soil is one of the ways to drain an area without drainage

If, due to some circumstances, it is impossible to install a drainage system, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods of draining a site, the most effective are adding a sufficient amount of fertile soil and constructing trenches around the perimeter.

On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m3 of soil is sufficient.

The easiest way to drain the soil on a site

Construction of shallow trenches filled with crushed stone is the easiest way to drain a summer cottage. Despite its overall simplicity, this method is very effective and can cope with large amounts of water formed during snow melting.

Work on arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of ​​the site includes the following:

If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be covered with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under a layer of turf. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery on top of the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.

How to clear a clogged drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology for laying drainage pipes is the main reason for stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnation of water is not associated with a blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not ensure constant and uniform drainage of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure.

To clean pipes Ø110 mm or more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During the cleaning process, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drainage pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Next, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards draining the water. Usually, small accumulations of silt and leaves can be pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to remove the blockage, then you will need to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself site drainage

Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnation of water on the site are a big problem, which affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the service life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that excess water can be dealt with using a drainage system. It is much worse if there is enough fresh water and moisture, and the construction of a well is impossible due to certain circumstances.

Waterlogged soil on a site is a problem for its owners. When purchasing a plot, excess moisture can be determined by the presence of reeds, sedges, and rush grass. Subsequently, the owners are faced with unpleasant fumes, mosquitoes, and poor growth of garden plants. Plants disappear due to insufficient oxygen access to the roots, their rotting, and exposure to toxic products (nitrates, acids, aluminum salts) formed in swampy soil.

Wetland and clay soil

It is expensive to build a house on waterlogged land. We have to build a deep pile foundation.

All these troubles can be eliminated by draining the area. There is a solution to the problem, and you can try to get rid of excess moisture yourself. The key to success in this case is understanding the nature of the swampy area.

Different situations - different solutions

Determining the cause of the formation of a swamp is sometimes difficult even for a specialist. In this situation, it is important to familiarize yourself with the surroundings and inspect the lands of your neighbors. Excessive soil moisture usually has two main reasons:

1. The placement of the allotment in a low-lying reservoir, which leads to the location of groundwater quite close to the surface. This reason is rarely confirmed, since few people deliberately decide to purchase land in a swamp.
2. Disruption of natural water flow as a result of heavy rains. This problem is associated with several factors - the location of the site below neighboring ones (water after rains constantly flows to it), the location of a layer of viscous clay close to the surface, or the presence of a source feeding the swamp.

Each specific case has its own solution to the problem, tested by more than one generation of farmers. An analysis of the situation on the site will allow you to decide which drainage method to use.

High groundwater level

Reeds are growing - water is nearby

Closed-type drainage performed at a sufficient depth will allow drainage of surface groundwater (“overwater”). Such drainage is installed along the perimeter of the site, as well as throughout its entire territory. In case of abundant water, when drainage into the deep layers of the soil does not lead to results, a drainage well and a pump are needed that can constantly pump out water and divert it outside the territory.

Clay soil

Organization of drainage on clay soil

Soil with a high clay content does not allow moisture to pass through easily, and the soil remains damp for a long time after rain and melting snow. If the land plot is located at an angle, the influx of water comes from the surface of the earth located above. The optimal solution in such a situation is the use of backfill and open ditches to accumulate and drain moisture deep into the ground.

The organization of closed-type drainage is not so effective, and the formation of a filtration layer to the surface of the earth is not always justified.

swampy area

The optimal, but very expensive solution is to raise the ground level and create a drainage ditch along the perimeter. Before draining a site, it is important to consider plans for the use of the area and determine the depth of drainage. If the area is seasonally swamped, you can dig a ditch in the lowest part of the site. In addition to it, it is necessary to make open drainage channels, often located throughout the entire territory. The sloping area should be protected from sliding of the earth with plants or geomats.

Drainage ditch along the site

Location of the allotment in the lowland

Waterlogging can be dealt with using a pump and a drainage well. If this is appropriate and possible, the problem will be solved by a pond in the lowest part of the plot and closed drainage throughout its entire area. Drainage must be carried out to a state in which the foundations of buildings will not be destroyed, and plants will be able to develop.

Learn more about drying methods

A plot of land can be drained using different methods of reclamation. Before choosing the right one, you should consider the following factors:

• waterproofness of the soil, its composition;
• direction and level of groundwater;
• buildings in the garden;
• height to which the groundwater level needs to be lowered.

Delivery of soil to raise the level of the site

The delivery of fresh fertile soil will allow the surface level of the plot to be raised. If the ground is plowed, it will mix with viscous and dense swampy soil, and it will be possible to grow crops in the garden. Lands cultivated in this way do not require fertilizers for several years. However, the swamp is a stable ecosystem, so it is possible that it will return to its original form over time.

Adding sand

If you add sand in equal proportions to the soil of the site, the quality of the soil improves and air exchange increases. With additional humus, it is possible to cultivate vegetables, berries, and herbs on the ground. Adding sand to waterlogged soil is a more effective means of reclamation. The method is effective in itself if applied on clay soils with a slight excess of surface water.

Drainage

Arranging a drainage system is the most effective way to drain surface water for a long time. To create it, plastic pipes with small diameter holes in the walls are used. It is first necessary to wrap the pipes with holes in geotextile in 1-3 layers, depending on the size of the soil particles. They are placed in pre-prepared channels to the following depth:

• for clay soils – 65-75cm;
• for loams - by 70-90cm;
• for sandy areas - up to 1 m.

Open and closed ditches

Construction of closed drainage ditches

Open drainage ditches will remove excess water from the soil surface. They are made with edges beveled at an angle of 20 degrees. The disadvantage of this method is rapid shedding, contamination of the outflow with leaves, debris, and stagnation of water. Such drainage structures should be cleaned regularly with a shovel. Open drainage ditches are not used in areas with sandy soil because the sand is quickly washed away and drainage becomes ineffective. It is convenient to place an open drainage ditch in an area along the fence, where it does not disturb anyone.

Closed drainage ditches are deeply dug trenches covered with a layer of sand and disguised as garden paths. They have an aesthetic appearance, the soil in them does not collapse, and the water inside does not bloom.

For the system to function properly, the dug trenches are led into a well or dug down to a layer of sand that will absorb moisture. If the channels become clogged, it will be difficult to clean with soil.

Raised beds

When planning to cultivate herbs, vegetables, and strawberries, owners of waterlogged plots build high beds. Excess moisture collects between the beds, and areas of land with crops become drier. With the right approach, it is possible to grow crops even in areas with excess water. Photos of vegetable gardens in Holland, surrounded by a network of canals, convince us of this. Such conditions allow you to grow anything you want.

Creating high beds will not only drain excess water, but also decorate the garden

Digging a pond or well

A decorative pond will collect excess moisture and allow it to gradually evaporate. At the same time, the garden area will become noticeably drier, and the pond itself will decorate the landscape. A clear example of the effectiveness of this method is the Cross Canal, built for the same purposes in the park of Versailles.

Wells are as efficient as ditches. To create them, holes are dug at the lowest points of the site and filled with crushed stone or sand. Their diameter at the bottom is half a meter, at the top – two meters, and their length is about a meter. After rain or snow melts, excess moisture gradually drains into them.

The pond collects rainwater and decorates the site

Planting moisture-loving trees

Moisture-loving trees help rid a waterlogged garden of excess water. Weeping willows, alders and birches thrive here. Such trees evaporate excess liquid through their leaves. Willows and birches dry out the wetland, but it will take several years for sufficient drainage. You can also cultivate cranberries, blueberries, and viburnum. When the area becomes drier, you should move on to growing your favorite plants.

Willows will decorate and drain the area

Typically, reeds and sedges grow in wetlands. To combat them, you should drain the area in a suitable way, for example, by draining excess moisture into a nearby stream. These plants have a powerful root system, and only by removing it can new growth be avoided for a certain time. To do this, you will have to dig deep holes with your own hands, remove every root, and lay roofing material at the bottom of the holes. Bulrush seeds spread well and if the ground remains wet the problem will return.

Extreme measures

If none of the listed land reclamation methods gave the desired result, or you don’t want to wait, you can invite specialists. Using powerful pumps, they will quickly pump out unnecessary moisture, and the effect will be visible within 24 hours. However, this is an expensive service, and the waterlogging problem may return over time.

When you fail to win in the struggle for dry soil, you can come to terms with and overcome the excessive moisture of the soil. To do this, you can arrange a pond, surrounding it with plants that require moisture.

Blueberries, viburnum, cranberries, marsh iris, mint, buttercups, thuja, and heather grow well in humid conditions. A good addition would be maiden grapes, lush ferns, callas, and some varieties of orchid plants.

There are many methods for dealing with excess moisture in the garden. However, when none of them helped, you will have to come to terms and create your own corner of nature. The owner of a marshy plot can successfully not only grow garden crops and flowers, but also build a house. There are many proven solutions for this.

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Drainage in a summer cottage is considered to be a fairly important hydraulic engineering operation. The simplest way to improve the water balance of the soil must be mandatory, because the moisture ratio at different periods of the year can change not only due to natural factors. Sometimes even a nearby construction site can upset the balance.

A simple system for draining water from a building

Soil drainage can be done using open trenches or specialized pipes placed in the ground. The first of them are simple in design, but do not look very aesthetically pleasing. In this regard, some developers create closed channels that do not interfere with the attractiveness of the landscape.

Surface lines

Although surface collection systems are relatively simple, they effectively remove moisture from the site in the form of precipitation. Through special trays and depressions, water is directed to a central drain or drain well. The advantages include:

• high construction speed;
• low costs;
• sufficient level of efficiency;
• ease of cleaning.

Helpful advice! If we are talking about how to make drainage on a site with your own hands without unnecessary financial investments, then first of all you should consider the option with a system of open channels.

Closed drainage systems

Systems with deep lines are ideal for draining both stormwater and groundwater located in the immediate vicinity. Most often, they are arranged using polymer pipes that are immersed in the ground at a certain distance.

In practice, two types of drainage with closed channels are well applicable:

• point (water collection occurs in one place);
• linear (moisture collection is ensured throughout the pipeline through special holes).

Note! Within one site, the presented species can be combined. For example, point collection can be used for the drainage system of a house, and linear collection can be used for groundwater.

Drainage in a summer cottage: the simplest method of installation for specific conditions

Before making a drainage system on a site, it is necessary to select its type based on operational features. It is worth considering the most optimal options for installing water drainage systems, which are popular under certain conditions.

An example of site drainage with a high groundwater level

If groundwater is close to the groundwater level, a deep linear system may be the best option. It will drain moisture from the entire area into a drainage well, ravine or ditch located a level below. It is proposed to use perforated plastic pipes in a geotextile filter as the main elements.

One of the simplest methods of drainage in a summer cottage with groundwater located near the surface comes down to the following scheme:

• A trench is dug to the distance where the soil freezes. Its slope should be 2 cm per linear meter towards the liquid collection point. A layer of sand is poured for leveling.
• Geotextiles are spread on the prepared bottom so that its edges overlap the walls of the pit by at least 1-2 m. A small layer of gravel is poured on top.
• Next, plastic pipes are laid, after which they are again filled with approximately the same layer of gravel. The ends of the geotextile are rolled up to form a protective barrier. The rest of the trench is filled with soil.

For your information! Knowing how to properly drainage around a site and on its territory with close groundwater, you can avoid serious problems associated with excess moisture.

Related article:

Do-it-yourself open drainage installation in an area with clay soil

For land with clay soil, a system with an open channel arrangement is more suitable. With a closed pipeline system, water will not be able to seep through such soil and go into specialized sedimentation tanks or other suitable places.

In places where water accumulates, ditches are dug with a depth of at least 50 cm. Their width should increase as they approach the receiving site. It is necessary to make the widest trench that collects water from the ditches adjacent to it. To facilitate draining and protect the edges from collapse, the side walls are cut at an angle of 30 degrees.

Since the open appearance of the trenches spoils the appearance of the site, it is necessary to decorate them. It not only improves aesthetic properties, but also strengthens the side surfaces of open lines. In this regard, the operation of the system increases significantly.

Stones of different sizes can be used as material for decorating pits. The largest of them should be placed on the bottom, and the medium and small ones should be placed on top. If you have good financial resources, the surface can be covered with marble chips, which will give the outlet lines a respectable appearance.

If money is tight, then ordinary brushwood can be a good option for decoration. It is necessary to find dry branches of any wood species that grow nearby. They should be tied in bunches and placed on special stands installed at the bottom of the ditch.

The thickness of the bundles of brushwood should be no more than 30 cm. It is better to place the branches so that the larger ones lie in the center, and the smaller ones at the edges.

Related article:

Average prices for turnkey plot drainage

Many companies offer professional services for installing drainage systems, but they are not that cheap. During the work, a double-wall pipe with a geotextile filter will be used.

Rules of care

Drainage structures will function properly for many years if the basic rules are followed during operation.

Always wet ground, a flooded or overly damp basement is not a death sentence. If you want to get rid of excessive humidity and finally start fully arranging your garden or vegetable garden, the first and main step will be to drain the area.

For this purpose, a number of drainage measures are used; you just need to determine the optimal option that exactly corresponds to the problem, which will be discussed in great detail in our article.

Draining and drying the area involves a number of measures and activities aimed at removing liquid from the surface of the earth or groundwater into a prepared drainage well or the nearest body of water.

In addition, less effective methods are used, such as selecting green spaces, trees and shrubs that actively absorb moisture in order to dry the soil with slight waterlogging.

Dehumidification is necessary in the following situations:

• the groundwater level rises close to the surface with a depth of up to 1-2 meters;
• the groundwater level rises to the lower level of the basement floor or higher;
• the soil is clayey or loamy, with dusty sands, poorly absorbs precipitation and melt water;
• a significant area is occupied by buildings or paved paths, platforms, which causes a greater volume of precipitation to fall on the remaining area of ​​open soil;
• the site is located in a lowland, water comes from the upper areas;
• swamping of an area with a nearby reservoir.

drainage diagram

Each option involves an effective way to drain the area. In the best case, you should invite a landscape design specialist or professional land reclamation specialists who can assess the situation and identify the main cause of waterlogging or waterlogging of the soil.

This is the only way to effectively select the right set of measures to properly drain the land around the house.

Methods for land reclamation

Official requirements and calculation methods for drainage are specified in the Codes of Rules SP 50-101-2004, SP 31-105-2002 and SNiP 2.06,15-85.

The main emphasis in regulatory documents is on choosing the required drying method depending on soil type, amount of precipitation, on how to drain an area of ​​groundwater, as well as on calculating the capacity of the drainage system. General provisions regulate the distribution of drainage ditches and pipeline lines in relation to existing buildings.

Three main drainage designs are used:

• open;
• backfill;
• closed.

Open drainage

These are ditches dug across an area with a general slope in one direction. They accumulate the bulk of atmospheric precipitation from the soil surface and are transported to a drainage well or absorbed into the lower layers of the soil, without posing a threat of waterlogging.

This option is ideal for clay soils that are poorly permeable to moisture. First of all, open ditches save from heavy rainfall and large volumes of melt water, and are used to redirect water coming from areas located above.

In terms of arrangement and complexity of implementation, open drainage is best suited to the question of how to drain an area of ​​water with your own hands.

The depth of the ditch is selected depending on the location and purpose. The width of the ditch is taken to be approximately one third less than the depth.

Near structural elements and buildings, the depth of the drainage channel should be 250-350 mm below the base of the recessed support elements.

Since it is impossible to significantly strengthen the walls of the ditch, they cannot be placed along the perimeter of buildings, so as not to provoke deformation of the foundation.

Backfill drainage

Further development of open drainage. The ditches are lined with geotextiles with a large margin on the sides. Coarse gravel is poured to about half or two-thirds of the depth. Next, fine gravel is poured so that 10-15 cm remains to the soil level. The edges of the geotextile are rolled up, protecting the bulk filter layer from silting.

A layer of sand and soil is formed on top. You can use painted decorative blue or light blue gravel instead of lawn grass to mark the position of the drainage ditch and decorate it as a “dry stream”.

The principles for calculating the size and depth of backfill drainage are similar to open ditches, with the difference that the walls of the backfill option can be made vertical, since a layer of filter rock acts as reinforcement.

Closed drainage

A network of perforated drainage pipes is distributed with a depth no less than the soil freezing level so that they do not deform or tear in winter. The pipes are laid in trenches on a prepared sand bed and a mound of filter gravel.

To prevent the drainage system from silting, geotextiles are used, which is wrapped around a pipe, a layer of gravel or along the contour of a trench. The desired combination of filters should be selected based on the soil composition and drainage load.

A practical option to drain an area with a high groundwater level, without spoiling the appearance of the local area with ditches.

It is advisable to use ready-made solutions with perforated pipes produced by KazTrubService and geotextiles without the use of materials such as asbestos or old steel pipes, which quickly become clogged until the drainage system completely fails.

The work order is as follows:

1. On the site plan, mark the optimal route for laying the drainage. Along the perimeter of buildings and beds and between garden trees at a minimum distance from the trunk of at least 2.5 meters. Determine the position of the drainage well at the lowest point. If there is a street storm drain or a reservoir nearby, you can also bring your own drainage to them;
2. Transfer the drainage layout to the site, marking the route with pegs with a stretched rope with a distance from the center of the future trench slightly more than half its width - 50-60 cm;
3. Dig trenches below the frost line around the site and below the base of the house foundation for drainage around its perimeter. Add 15 cm to the set depth;
4. Fill the base of the trench with coarse sand to a height of 10-15 cm, filling it with water, but without special compaction. Along the upper edge of the pillow, level all the trenches so that from the highest point to the drainage well a constant slope of 1-2 cm for every 10 m was maintained;
5. Lay the geotextile so that it protrudes beyond the trench by at least 25 cm on each side and a piece of gravel for the filter layer by 5-10 cm;
6. Lay drainage pipes. It is better to use ready-made polymer corrugated perforated pipes, protected by a layer of geotextile from silting. Check the slope of the pipes and its uniformity along the entire route;
7. Fill the pipes with gravel of coarse and medium fractions so that approximately 20-30 cm remains to the upper edge of the trench. For trenches in an area with a known shallow depth, gravel is poured along the upper edge of the trench;
8. The edges of the geotextile cover the gravel filter and fill it with decorative small crushed stone or a layer of soil under the lawn grass.

With the help of trees

If there is no desire or opportunity to organize serious drainage for drying, you can do it the traditional way. Part of the site, especially at the lowest, waterlogged point, should be set aside for planting with water-loving plants.

Suitable for this:

• Poplar. However, it is difficult to guess in advance what it will be like without fluff, and pyramidal poplars do not hold well in the soil and a strong wind can easily knock them down, so this choice is quite questionable. It is recommended to plant poplars only near rivers and small reservoirs to strengthen the bank, if for some reason the weeping willow has not taken root or is out of place;
• Fluffy birch, willow. An excellent option for planting along the edge of the site. Birch and willow abundantly extract moisture from the soil. They take root well and speed up soil drainage, especially if a swampy area is used in development;
• Alder, ash, larch or maple. They are on par in terms of efficiency and at the same time will be an excellent decoration;
• Plum. Almost the only cultivated tree for the garden that can cope with high humidity. You should select the varieties of damson plums or damsons that will best cope with the task of draining the area. However, it should be taken into account that the survivability of a tree on wet ground primarily depends on the type of rootstock, and in this matter much depends on the habits and foundations of the local green farm.

Trees should be planted in a special way to drain the area. A pit of at least 1.5 meters in diameter and 80-100 cm deep is prepared.

Gravel is poured onto the bottom for drainage, then a layer of fertile soil is laid and the seedling is placed. The hole is filled with soil mixed with coarse gravel, except for the patch near the trunk of the seedling.

With high groundwater levels

To drain groundwater passing close to the surface, it is best to use deep closed drainage along the perimeter of the building and throughout the territory.

If there is a significant volume of perched water, when drainage to deeper layers does not help, you will need a large-capacity drainage well with a pump that will constantly discharge liquid away from the site.

swampy area

The best option is to raise the ground level throughout the entire area and form a drainage ditch around it. However, this entails enormous costs and is not always possible.

Before draining a swampy area, a plan for its use should be specified to know to what depth the water should be drained.

If the swamping of the area is seasonal, then a canal dug along the lowest part with reinforced clones protected from erosion by green spaces and geomats will help cope with the problem. In addition to the channel, frequent open drainage ditches will be relevant.

With clay soil

The main problem is that precipitation and melt water stand still for a long time and do not go deep into the soil. This is bad for both a flat area and a sloping one; in the second case, water flows from the lands located above are added.

A simple and affordable solution would be open ditches or backfill ditches to collect water and drain it immediately deep into the soil.

Organizing closed drainage is not so effective, and you will have to form a filter layer right up to the surface, which is not always appropriate.

In the lowlands

It becomes extremely difficult to perform high-quality drainage without the help of a drainage well and pump. The borders of the perched water are practically under your feet, and the soil throughput is reduced to a minimum and can be only 0.5-1 m/day.

An idea from landscape design would be an artificial pond at the lowest point of the site and closed drainage distributed throughout the territory.

Ultimately, the drainage of the area should be carried out to such an extent that the soil easily accepts those plants that will beautify the local area, and the foundation of the house does not wash away over time.

In order to choose the right drainage plan and suitable implementation, it is better to contact specialized construction companies that have professional experience in this matter and will be able to arrange everything with maximum efficiency.