How to strengthen a metal entrance door. Ways to strengthen a wooden front door

In our hectic and unsafe age, we need to ensure that the front door is a reliable security guard for our home. Not only the door, but also the door frame must be reliable.

Quite often in apartment buildings, door frames are fastened in such a way that if you apply little effort, you can pull the frame and the door out of place. So first of all strengthening the door frame so that it is firmly connected to the wall. To do this, we drill holes in the vertical posts of the door frame and in the wall.

We drill the stand with a regular drill, and the wall with a Pobedit tip. The diameter of the hole on the box should be 1 cm, and in the wall the drill should go to a depth of 5-7 cm. Now we hammer steel rods into the resulting holes; if the walls are wooden, then first we insert metal tubes into the holes, and then the rods into them.

In most cases, the door has 2 hinges; to strengthen it, we install 1-2 more. We fasten the hinges to the door frame with hardened screws (this will provide additional reinforcement for the hinges). The screws must pass through the door frame and enter the wall at least 3 cm.

There is one more additional protection for the front door - anti-burglary claws, which insure the hinges on the door. These steel strips are bolted to the door leaf, and when it is closed, they rest against the holes in the frame.

They will also help strengthen the door. two pins with a diameter of 1 cm, which must be secured to the door from the hinge side. The essence of these pins is as follows: having made a sufficient hole in the door frame, we insert into them a piece of steel pipe, the diameter of which will be slightly larger than the pins, and when the door closes, the pins enter these steel bushings and secure the door. This fixation will make it more difficult to break down the door compared to unreliable hinges. But the best result in strengthening the door will be replacing conventional hinges with special anti-squeeze hinges, which have both pins and corresponding holes.

It will help to strengthen the door frame in the place of the locking plate steel angle. It is installed vertically along the entire height of the box. The corner will be invisible on the door frame if it is cut flush into the jamb.

You can paint it with the same paint as the casing. Before installing the corner, we select holes for the lock tongues and make mounting holes. The corner is secured with screws, the length of which is at least 3.5 cm.

Made of hardened steel will also allow you to slightly strengthen the front door. We fasten the chain to the door jamb with screws, and the locking plate to the door itself horizontally. This is necessary so that the chain can be removed only by closing the door. But this is not a very reliable protection, since it can be bitten with nippers, or simply torn out. Therefore, it is better to install a special door stop, which is more reliable than a chain. You can also make a peephole, which would be more appropriate to install at a height that would be convenient for all family members.

Installing the peephole is quite simple, you just need to drill a hole and insert it. We recommend taking a panoramic peephole, which has a wide field of view and can be closed from the inside.

But the best protection for the front door will be a second steel door with a reliable lock (by the way, a hardwood door is also suitable for this purpose), which can be ordered and installed on top of yours.

How to strengthen a wooden door?

When discussing among ourselves another case of burglary, we, as a rule, scold the police, accusing them of lacking effective measures to prevent such cases and combat the catastrophic increase in their number. At the same time, however, we forget about ourselves: are we doing something for the safety of our apartments!

We do not encourage readers to “catch the crooks”; We see our task as something else: to suggest methods for refurbishing an apartment that will significantly reduce the possibility of burglary.

The simplest example: a fair share of all apartment robberies occur without breaking the front door or using master keys - people, leaving home, simply forget to lock the apartment. And how many entrance doors are equipped with such primitive locks that you don’t need to be Ostap Bender to open them with your thumbnail! Meanwhile, you can significantly secure your home if you strengthen the door frame, strengthen the door and equip it with reliable locks. In today’s publication, we want to give you some life-tested tips that will help to largely protect your apartment from uninvited guests.

To rigidly connect the door frame with a reinforced concrete wall panel, it is necessary to drill holes d = 10 mm in its vertical posts so that the drill goes deep into the beta to a depth of at least 50..70 mm, after which steel rods are driven into these holes. The door will also be strengthened by a pair of pins d=10 mm, attached to it from the hinge side, as shown in our figure. Opposite each of the pins on the box, cut a blind hole into which a steel bushing (piece of pipe) with an internal diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the pin is inserted. When closing the door, these rods enter the bushings; Such fasteners do not allow burglars (or, in any case, seriously make it difficult) to break into the door from the side of the not very strong and reliable hinges.

Reliable locking is a sufficient guarantee of the safety of your apartment. Unfortunately, it is not easy to purchase a high-security lock today (like many other things). However, it is not too difficult to equip the door with simple additional devices that significantly increase the security of old and not very reliable locks.

As you know, many doors still have locks with plate levers and a through keyhole. Their secrecy is extremely low; however, it can be significantly increased. The easiest way is to install an additional miniature lock, which is designed for mailboxes. It is made on the basis of a fairly reliable cylinder mechanism with a high degree of secrecy. If you embed it as shown in our figure, then, when leaving home, you can close the door first with the main lock, and then, inserting the key into the miniature lock, use the latch connected to its mechanism to close the keyhole of the main lock . Now the attacker will no longer be able to insert a key or master key into the keyhole. An additional lock will also serve you well when you lock the doors at night. You just need to use it to block the keyhole from the outside, and lock the door from the inside with the main lock.

Rice. 2. Increase the security of the main lock using an additional lock for the mailbox:
1-handle-pad, 2-additional lock, 3-additional lock key; 4 - main lock key; 5 - main lock keyhole latch, 6 - door

There is another way to increase the secrecy of old locks - using a secret latch, which can be opened or closed through the keyhole of the main lock. To do this, you will have to make a homemade valve similar to the one shown in the figure. The main thing in it is a comb of four or five steel threaded rods, screwed into the latch and slightly riveted to ensure their locking. This type of valve is opened or closed using a homemade key. You need to select a rod (or an old key) according to the diameter of the keyhole, make a cut at the end and hinge a steel plate in it using a rivet or screw. Its length is selected depending on the relative position of the keyhole of the main lock and the secret latch.

To open or close such a latch, you need to insert a homemade key into the keyhole; the rotating plate must be positioned vertically. As soon as the end of the key leaves the keyhole, the plate will lower under its own weight and fall between the adjacent pins of the comb. By turning the key in one direction or another, you can open or close the latch. Keep in mind that such a lock can be installed on a door even if it is not equipped with a key lock with a bit. You just need to cut a through hole in the door for a homemade key with a turning plate and close it from the inside and outside with a decorative plate with a keyhole.

A keyhole (fake or real) will allow you to install another fairly reliable lock of increased privacy and increased mechanical reliability. With the help of such a lock, the door is rigidly fixed at the top and bottom, which, in combination with a reinforced door frame, will make your home reliably protected from visits from burglars.

This lock consists of two spring-loaded latches installed, as shown in the figure, in the upper and lower parts of the door. The latches are connected using a thick nylon line so that it is located opposite the keyhole - real or fake. The special key with which you can open such a lock is a round steel rod with an eye (similar to the standard key of this lock); in the end part there is a cut, the width of which is slightly greater than the diameter of the fishing line, and the depth is about 10 mm. The sharp edges on the key should be rounded, as shown in our picture. To open such a lock, the key is inserted into the keyhole, the connecting line gets into the cut, after which the key should be turned; the fishing line will wind around the rod, pull the latches, and they will release the front door.

This lock is especially reliable in combination with a miniature cylinder lock for mailboxes, the use of which we have already described above. It should apparently be noted that as latches it is convenient to use the mechanisms of old, now rarely used so-called “English” locks, which have a spring-loaded latch and a fuse.

And one last thing. All additional locks of increased reliability and secrecy and a reinforced door frame are unlikely to be effective means of protection against burglars if the door itself is fragile. But modern doors, which usually consist of a lightweight wooden frame, particle filler and hardboard cladding, are not durable. It can be increased with the help of additional cladding with plywood 3.4 mm thick or pasting with several layers of fiberglass over epoxy resin or parquet varnish. Finally, we recommend that you cover the door with leatherette or artificial leather, laying a layer of foam rubber between the trim and the door itself. In addition to noise reduction and improving the appearance of the front door, soft cladding will introduce an element of uncertainty for an intruder - after all, any unpredictably ultra-reliable door can be hidden under artificial leather.

Independent development of “M-K” using materials from foreign periodicals

Ways to strengthen a wooden front door

Unfortunately, over time, the performance characteristics of wooden entrance doors change, and not for the better. Naturally the question of replacing them arises. In cases where there is no financial opportunity to install another door block, it makes sense to strengthen the old one.

It is not worth taking any measures to strengthen a low-quality door; it is more advisable to replace it simultaneously with the frame. As an option, a solid wood door is suitable, which can be strengthened at your discretion.

Strengthening the door frame

It's no secret that an entrance door that opens to the outside is better. But there are apartments in which the opposite is true, and this situation needs to be corrected as soon as possible. You will get additional space, and at the same time complicate the task for ill-wishers. Plus, it couldn't be easier to do. It is enough to remove the entire door block and turn it in the right direction.

The protection of the apartment originates from the door frame, the fastening of which is directly related to the material. The metal frame can be welded to steel rods driven into the ends of the doorway or to the reinforcement of a reinforced concrete wall. This type of fastener is the most reliable.

The door frame can also be installed on expansion anchors. To do this, you need to drill holes at the ends of the doorway and place metal dowels in them into which the bolts are screwed. It is important to remember that when installing the door frame, do not use plastic dowels, nails or self-tapping screws. Even with the strongest door, with this type of fastening, it will not be difficult to remove it from the opening using simple tools.

Checking the door hinges

Front doors made of wood can simply be removed from their hinges. Therefore, ordinary hinges should be replaced with special metal plates with flat insulated connectors. People call them “anti-squeeze”. It is advisable to attach a third hinge, this will prevent the door from coming off. In addition, where the hinges are attached, the door jamb must be well reinforced, for example, with a steel strip.

We install reliable larvae

The lock remains an important element that guarantees security. For the front door, you should choose more complex locking devices, and preferably several at once, this will increase its protection. To avoid unexpected guests, you need to carry out a full or partial replacement of the faulty closing mechanism in time, or improve its individual elements. The modern market has a huge selection of profile locks and cylinders equipped with various anti-burglary systems.

Replacing a lock usually begins with dismantling it. When the screws are unscrewed, the key should be turned and using a screwdriver, prying up the plate, pull out the old lock. Afterwards, you can install a new one, having first outlined the contours of its plates. The plates with pins will be installed on the end of the door, and the counter plates will be installed on the door frame, where it is necessary to drill holes of the required size for them. After tightening the end plate screws, insert, for example, Mottura high-security security cylinders. Then, make sure that the lock works well and the door opens easily.

Armor for wooden door

The most reliable way to make the front door stronger is to cover it with steel or aluminum sheet, so that it is larger than the size of the door and protrudes beyond its frame. But then the hinges should also be strengthened, since due to the increase in the weight of the door they can sag and lead to deformation of the door leaf. This also applies to the base, which needs to be covered with metal corners and more securely fixed in the doorway.

To enhance the protection of a wooden entrance door, you can also cover it with metal mesh. To do this, using steel strips, the metal mesh should be secured from the inside along the entire surface of the canvas. Next, mineral wool is laid on top of the mesh, secured, and covered with any upholstery material.

Full-height steel shutter bars will also help provide additional security to the front door. One of the effective ways to strengthen the front door is to install a special metal plate that will block access to the lock. The protective plate itself, screws and threaded bushings must be particularly strong. A metal plate is attached from the inside to the door handle. It is advisable that the plate have beveled edges, this will prevent it from being grabbed by any tool. Thus, the closed base of the cylinder eliminates the possibility of turning it.

Additional protection items

To be on the safe side, you should put special “claws” on the door hinges, which are bolted to the door and rest against the corresponding bushings in the door frame when it is closed.
The latch, which will protect the wooden door from being knocked out, deserves special attention. It is mounted across the door, where the latch and lock stopper fit. It is important that the bar has a solid base and is not very thin.
If there is a break-in attempt, electronic sound locks will also protect you, emitting a long, loud alarm.
Enhanced security measures will never be superfluous, therefore, if possible, it is advisable to install a second metal door with a profile lock.

How to strengthen a wooden door?

I want to install a wooden front door. But I understand that it needs to be reinforced with metal. Question: how to do this correctly?
I thought of doing something like this: sheathing the end of the door around the perimeter, for example, with a corner.
Reinforce the hinge side and the lock side. plates.
What is the best way to connect metal to wood? For example, self-tapping screws can be easily unscrewed, so they don’t fit, I think. And is it wise to use welding?
The corner fixed at the end is inaccessible to an attacker. Therefore, I am mainly interested in fastening the meth. plates to protect the lock.
Should the sheet of metal on the side of the lock cover the entire height of the door, or is it enough to just cover the place where the locks are installed?
How to make a flashing to protect the lock bolts?
How to properly attach (and protect) hinges?

I will be grateful for constructive suggestions and reasonable criticism.

2Skeptic I saw a door from the Finns, there they are inside the door, when assembling timber, before gluing they put a piece of iron bent in the letter P inside. This, as I understand it, strengthens it better than the timber itself. We ordered the door, we'll show you when we get it. They only break out the locks, not the doors; it is enough to cover the place where the hinges are installed, the end of the door where the lock bolts exit and the place where the locks are installed. Even with bolts protruding from the outside through the door, such an installation is a hundred times more reliable than in the emptiness of iron doors. Only a sick person can say that a piece of cotton wool is better in terms of heat and sound insulation than solid wood 60 mm thick.

Unfortunately, it is very difficult to find a company willing to implement all the necessary reinforcements for a wooden door at a reasonable price. A top-end steel door DPZ or NEMAN type K9l will be cheaper, more beautiful and more reliable. And independent attempts in most cases are doomed to failure. Too troublesome. Besides, you don’t even imagine the process, and you don’t have a workshop. And nothing good will come of it at home on your knees. Your door will open with the help of a simple crowbar even after all the “strengthening” on the count of two.

2TeRaos Hello instigator. You could throw in here what you think and sort of do it yourself, and Neman and I would set up such doors. Roughly speaking, I don’t know what Neman will charge for an iron door frame, but the door panel costs 600 rubles in total. Castles, fortifications will be understood by letting in another five, not higher. And it will look like an ordinary wooden door. The Finns easily suggested a method of strengthening. A metal profile is laid inside before gluing the timber.
Everything is glued together, with all the details and necessary embedded parts.
The door will be like a designer.
The club will give money to finance this model. They are running out of *****s and those who cannot think at all, although there are still many left.

At home, on my knee - yes. But I have friends who make doors (not bad ones). Plus, I have friends who work in a mechanical workshop.
Although, I think that at home, on your knee, you can achieve good results.
And the doors are DPZ and Neman. There are none in our city, and they are unlikely to appear in the near future.
And what we sell. This is terrible: either China (a lot of China) or a garage. There are, however, a couple of companies that make doors supposedly using bending technology. But these doors did not stand next to Neman, even simple ones, and the price was FROM 30,000. And there are castles there. none.

That's why I still haven't given up on the idea. Does everyone really think that strengthening a door at home is impossible? After all, you can cut metal to order (from the same friends), and you can attach it to the door yourself, if you have the tools and hands.

Skeptic
Perhaps in the absence of an alternative, something suitable can be done, but...

First, you will need a door made of laminated oak, beech or alder (however, other species besides spruce and pine are also possible, but those indicated are best suited). Paneled doors will not work.

Secondly, the canvas must be at least 50mm. It is advisable that two quarters for two seals be selected on the door and frame, but these are not easy to find. In extreme cases, one quarter will do, but then you will have to make a “roller” as the second sealing contour.

Thirdly, we strengthen the anti-squeeze bar on the side of the bolts. In the simplest case, we select a cavity 3-6 mm deep from the end of the door with a milling cutter, insert a metal plate of the appropriate thickness into it. We fix it with self-tapping screws. We do the same on the side of the box. We do not use standard lock mates; we make holes for the bolts directly in the reinforced plate.

We perform a similar operation on the hinge side. Ideally, we do this procedure along the entire perimeter of the door and frame. You can try replacing the plate with a corner or even a U-shaped profile. But the complexity increases significantly, and such material will be difficult to find.

After this, the door can be installed. But do not forget about the corresponding hinges and their fastening (the weight of the door will be more than 100 kg). It is also better to choose a lock with three-way locking, but the vertical rods will have to be hidden in a box, and this is not entirely aesthetically pleasing. However, they can later be hidden behind the upholstery. If the door opens inward, the “rollers” of the second sealing circuit will be located on the same side. The attachment points for the end strips of the locks and hinges will need to be “coordinated” with the metal plates installed at the previous stage.

Actually, this is the strengthening of a wooden door. The rest is just trifles. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that it will be possible to seal the U-shaped profile at the gluing stage, although, of course, this will be much better than the specified strapping.

PS. This method has been tested in practice, but the final cost of the door is far from budget, about $2000.

2TeRaos
Thanks for the good advice! I'll think further.

Message from TeRaos:
Skeptic

Actually, after the door and locks are installed, you will need to wait a while until it “sits into place.” Then proceed to the main strengthening, which is as follows:

Through the hinges, end strips of the locks and “strengthening” plates we make several holes (from 3 to 10 on each side) into the door cavity for 10-20mm reinforcement. On the hinge side, the reinforcement is installed in these holes with a protrusion of 10-15mm. Reciprocal holes are made on the box where these “tails” will fall when the door is closed. On the side of the locks, the reinforcement is installed flush, the main thing is that a reliable hook is formed between these power elements and the end strips of the locks.

The metal plates on the side of the box are strengthened in a similar way. It is important that the reinforcement goes into the main wall and does not dangle in the gap between the frame and the doorway.

At what depth should holes be drilled and fittings installed? As I understand it, this operation should be carried out after installing the door, so this should (can) be done at home, using an ordinary drill? After all, it is hardly possible to remove an installed door and take it to the workshop, especially if it is the only door.
And also, what is the best way to secure the reinforcement? Is it necessary, for example, to put it on epoxy? Or will it be enough for it to be forced into the holes with force?
It is especially important to know the recommended hole depth.

There is no need to remove anything. All holes for reinforcement are drilled on site. There is also no point in fastening it, because... when trying to break in, the main force will be applied to bending, and not to tearing out. It is enough that the reinforcement fits tightly and DOES NOT Push IN, i.e. The depth of the hole and the length of the reinforcement must match. It is important that a reliable grip is formed between the end plates and the reinforcement. How to ensure it - see on site. At least grab it with welding. The main thing is not to overdo it with the gap between the door and the frame. Leave 1mm - the door will sag and stick. Leave 5mm - they will insert a crowbar and tear off any reinforcement. Choose the planting depth of the reinforcement based on common sense; 20cm should be enough.

No more than 5 - 8 thousand rubles, not counting installation. Plus the moral satisfaction that you have an ordinary normal door, and not the entrance to your own prison cell.

2Castle Lovers Club
Do you think that there is no point in strengthening the end of the door with a corner? Is the bar enough?

And also, I want to ask for advice about locks. I want to put Kerberos as the main one. Which is better to choose - mortise or overhead, taking into account the specifics of the door?
True, they don’t sell Kerberos in our city. How can I order it by mail? I didn’t find such an option on your dealers’ websites.

Here's an extra lock. What's wrong with Barrier? I remember you said that Polyvector is now part of the Club?

Has entered.
The Russian manufacturer has common enemies, and there is no point in barking at each other on one side of the front.
But they have a website, a connection, you can decide everything yourself. Your choice is your responsibility, you can’t think about your good uncle all the time.

2Castle Lovers Club
Thank you!

You. You give ideas. And already order such a door. Let's get everything ourselves and check it. It’s also interesting how theory and practice correspond.

interesting topic.
I reinforced an ordinary door by making two plates from 3 mm steel at the factory (one with a bend covered part of the outer plane at the place where the lock was attached, and the side of the lock was an L-shaped thing..
in it, on a press, I cut out holes for fastening the handle, and for two locks... the cylinder is oval and sulva.

then four studs were welded and an anti-squeeze strip was welded, then the outer plane was ground on a machine; the welding points became invisible.. (it is no longer possible to drill the attachment points because it is unknown where the studs are welded.. and the weld seam is not visible. then this thing was covered with vinyl film (the edges are pre-ground to an angle).
and a second plate was made - just a plate on the inside, with holes for these pins and a handle. and under the keyholes..

installation - on the end side of the door I make a recess equal to the thickness of the lock strips + the thickness of the plate.. total 5 mm) I mark the holes for the studs.. I drill.. I put the outer plate, I put the inner one.. I compress it with a clamp.. I cut the studs to height, screw on beautiful nuts - All.

The part of the box on the side of the locks is reinforced accordingly. (this was necessary to do because there was already dust there, not wood..).

I think I put an iron strip along the edge of the door on the side of the hinges... and if I'm not mistaken, the top and bottom edges... but I could be wrong... I secured the hinges with long hardened screws... fortunately I had an impact screwdriver at hand...
on the side of the box, the loop was attached to the wall.. (there are holes in the wall filled with dowels and long screws).

as a result it was funny.. when I lost the key.. or forgot it in the room.. I don’t remember anymore.. I broke down the door.. as a result the box broke.. but the door remained intact..
although it is difficult to judge the burglary resistance of such protection since I did not break it vandalously... without having the desire to damage the door or frame... maybe this would not have saved me from radically forceful methods.

The topic is back
I see that I’m not the only one who thinks about installing a good-quality wooden door.

The exterior of our house is made of China.. there will be an alarm on it.. I’m pinning all my hopes on the wooden door.. so I’ll start strengthening it..

Once upon a time, I liked some advice that I heard somewhere.
put the external one that is flimsy and even nondescript... and the internal one that is good...
I don’t agree about the nondescript one.. the Chinese one looks wow.. but I hope all the thieves know that it’s cheap, but let the internal one work as a protection.. well, I just think the Chinese one is an alarm sensor that they started breaking

So it's kind of evolution.
Thoughts and reflections, plus experience, are a normal process.
We have been telling you from day one: they don’t clean guns with bricks. It’s stupid to install a piece of hardware at your entrance.
There is no such example of ensuring burglary resistance and personal security around the world, except for the scoop. No!
Well, maybe only in Moscow there is such a thing, and from there the fashion started to become completely stupid.

Good day everyone!

If I understood the above correctly -
Today in Moscow it is impossible to find an office that can supply a high-quality wooden door that is not inferior to NEMAN steel doors for reasonable money (25-30k. rub.)?

How to strengthen a wooden swing entrance door: options for strengthening

The main function of the front door is to protect the premises from unauthorized entry by thieves.

Entrance structures are made of metal, wood, glass, plastic or a combination of these materials. Metal products resist burglary better. More often these are installed in modern houses. But, if you have wooden doors, they can be strengthened to make them reliable against a mechanical break-in attempt.

Classification

By type of opening they are divided:

In swing systems, the loose part of the door leaf is pushed away from you or pulled towards you to open it.

In sliding systems, the sash moves parallel to the wall along guides that are installed at the top of the doorway (compartment doors) or mounted in the doorway (cassette doors). In the case of the cassette type, the sash is hidden inside a cassette installed in the wall.

Often for external systems a swing type is used.

Swing type

Before presenting options for strengthening the structure, let’s consider what it consists of and what elements can be strengthened, as well as methods for performing this work.

Entrance swing door design

It consists of two parts: box and canvas. Additionally, each system is equipped with fittings.

Door frame

Fixed part of the structure. Attached to the wall opening using anchors. Consists of three or four bars (depending on the design).

Each of them has its own name, according to its functional responsibilities. The beam to which the canvas is attached is called a loop beam. The second vertical beam is called a false beam. The upper beam is the ceiling beam, and the lower beam is the threshold.

Canvas

The leaf or leaf is the movable element of the door. One part of the hinges is installed on the canvas, the second (lower) is attached to the hinge beam. When installing the leaf, it is simply hung on the door frame using a hinge structure.

The canvas comes in the following types:

All-wood is made from solid wood. For the construction of wooden doors, this is the most reliable option.

Panel panels consist of a wooden frame, which is covered with MDF sheets or wooden elements. A heat and sound insulator is placed between the sheets.

Panel door design

Attention! The panel structure is weakly resistant to burglary, so if you have such a door installed, then it needs to be replaced, since strengthening the frame or purchasing high-quality locks will not help if the door is knocked out.

When choosing, choose a structure made of dense wood, such as oak, beech, cherry or alder.

Accessories

It includes the following elements:

locking and locking mechanisms;
pens;
door peepholes, etc.

Which areas of a wooden door need strengthening?

One of the most common methods of hacking is squeezing the fabric. To do this, a crowbar is inserted into the gap between the leaf and the frame and the sash is squeezed out. This happens if you have gaps between the canvas and the box.

The second method is to violate the integrity of the lock (drilling, tearing out or knocking out the lock cylinder).

Door opened in the castle area

The third option is cutting off the door hinges. After the burglar has made the cut, the canvas is simply moved to the side and the passage into the room is open.

Also, when using jacks or with a strong impact, the box is squeezed out along with the canvas. This happens if it is loosely secured in the opening.

How to strengthen a wooden door against thieves with your own hands?

Strengthening a wooden box

If the wood from which the box is made is not rotten and has not dried out over time, then the structure is strengthened against mechanical break-in.

To strengthen the box, metal corners are installed around the perimeter. One side of the square is attached to the doorway with long metal pins or dowels, and the other directly to the frame bars. The simplest way is to install metal plates on all corners of the box.

Strengthening the corners of the door system

Doors that open into the room are considered vulnerable to knocking out. It is advisable to correct this option for opening the sash. However, simply twisting the loops is not enough. It is necessary to select a groove on the jamb of the box so that the canvas is tightly fixed in the closed position.

To make it more difficult for the box to deform when the door is pressed, metal corners are installed around the entire perimeter of the box, which are fixed with self-tapping screws. The main thing is that after installation, they do not interfere with the movement of the canvas.

Web protection

To strengthen the wooden panel, the outside is covered with a steel sheet 1-1.5 mm thick. In this case, the sheet should go around the door from the ends and be fixed with nails or screws from the inside or from the ends. Then the doors are decorated with wooden slats on top. If the door structure is weak, the door will sag due to the increased weight of the door leaf. In this case, they are replaced with more powerful ones.

Instead of covering the door with a metal sheet, it is covered with a metal mesh, which is reinforced with steel sheets around the perimeter. Screws or staples are used for fixation. The top of the door is insulated with mineral wool, which is covered with upholstery made of dermantin or other material. You can install a metal sheet on the outside of the canvas, and from the inside you can upholster it with mesh, and then cover it with an MDF sheet.

Door reservation is performed as follows.

Stage 1. The canvas is removed from the hinges and laid on a horizontal surface with the outer side up.

Stage 2. A metal sheet is laid on top and the locations of the bolts are marked. To do this, draw a line along the perimeter and make marks every 10-15 cm. The bolts must pass through the wooden frame of the canvas. In this case, the fastening will be more reliable.

Stage 3. Drill through the door leaf and metal sheet in the places where the bolts are installed. The diameter of the hole must be equal to the diameter of the screw.

Stage 4. The sheet is secured with screws. Their heads are located on the outside of the door. They are secured from the inside with nuts.

Fixing a metal sheet on the canvas with screws

Stage 5. Holes are drilled in the metal in the places where the handle and lock cylinder are installed, as well as for the screws that secure the lock plate.

Stage 6. Install the fittings on the canvas.

Stage 7. Hang the canvas on the box.

In addition to reinforcing the canvas with metal, additional stiffening ribs are installed.

Often, multiple locking systems are installed to protect doors. Locks cannot be placed close to each other. This weakens the strength of the fabric. It is desirable that the distance between them be at least 40 cm. The castle platform is also strengthened. If the lock is overhead, then we install a metal plate under it and secure it with screws. If a mortise design is used, then a steel plate, only of a larger size, is also installed on the inside of the locking platform with screws. The cover must cover the keyholes. The metal plate on the locking area and hardware must be durable. Its thickness can reach 3 mm.

Lock protection with metal plates

Installation of anti-slices

To prevent the door from being removed, even when cutting off the hinges, a device is used that is analogous to anti-cuts. They are installed on metal doors.

Holes are drilled in the hinges, which are installed on the frame and sash strictly opposite each other. Next, screw a screw into one loop and cut off its head. It should protrude 1-1.5 cm from the loop. When the door is closed, the hardware enters the hole. Now, even if the hinge is cut down, the screw will not allow you to remove, set aside the broken door and enter the room.

Anti-cuts are also installed on wooden doors. To do this, use plates with a pin, which are mounted on the end of the canvas on the hinge side. To do this, a recess is selected in the tree with a length and depth corresponding to the dimensions of the plate, which must be flush with the end.

Anti-cuts

After this, the door is closed and the pin leaves an imprint on the box. At this point in the box a counter plate is installed.

It is better to choose a reinforced version of the loop, with a plug into which the rod rests. In this case, during shaking and impacts, the rod will not fall out and the door cannot be opened in this way.

Installation of secure locks

To protect doors from burglary, secure locks are installed. They come in the following types:

Cylindrical and lever ones are considered reliable. It is advisable to install not one, but two locks. Only they should not be installed close to each other, so as not to weaken the door leaf.

Also, for better protection, two entrance doors are installed. The first external one opens to the outside, and the second - to the inside of the room. This will not only create big problems for a burglar, but will also add additional sound and heat insulation to the house. The second door should not be inferior in strength to the external one. Sometimes the second doors are made more reinforced than the first ones, which makes it possible not to attract much attention from thieves to the house. They also need to reinforce the locking platform with a steel plate.

It is advisable to equip the entrance door leaf with a peephole with a viewing angle of 150-180°.

Also, to secure the door, you need to install an additional bolt or chain, or both.

Interior doors play an important role in creating an interior; they do not.

Wooden doors look aesthetically pleasing and elegant. There are many.

Often, even after minor repairs, it is discovered that there is something on the door.

To choose good, inexpensive interior doors.

How to strengthen the door at the dacha?

The need to strengthen doors in a dacha may arise in several cases: after long-term use and when choosing the wrong door leaf. In these situations, most summer residents who cannot afford to buy a new block have a question - how to strengthen the door at the dacha?

Experts advise that if the fabric is of poor quality, then it is better not to carry out strengthening measures, since the level of safety will still remain at the same level.

Door frame strengthening technology

Metal doors that open to the inside are rare, but they still exist. If there is just such a system at the dacha, then it needs to be corrected immediately, since external opening significantly increases the level of protection and also frees up space inside the room. The dismantling process is simple and takes little time; to do this, you need to remove the door block and install it in the desired position.

If a metal box is installed at the dacha, then the structure must be welded to steel rods or reinforcement hammered into the ends; this method of strengthening is considered one of the best. You can also install a box on the expansion anchors, which will increase fixation. To do this, you need to fasten metal dowels into pre-drilled holes at the ends of the opening and screw in the bolts.

Checking and selecting hinges for a country door

How to strengthen the door at the dacha? - the question arises for most owners; hinges play a significant role in strengthening, and the level of safety as a whole depends on the design of the structure.

If high-quality fabric is available, then it is better to equip the doors with hidden hinges. The entire mechanism is hidden in a special hole in the box, which is not visible from the outside. The operation of a door with internal hinges is much simpler, since balls on the axles or bearings ensure ease of opening.

Advantages of hidden hinges

Due to the hidden device, an attractive and presentable appearance is guaranteed;
Increased level of safety, since the hinges cannot be cut or knocked down;
If necessary, the internal loops can be replaced with conventional devices;
Simple adjustment, which ensures a complete and uniform fit to the box.

Features and advantages of anti-removal pins

If the doors have external hinges, then the structure must be reinforced with 12 mm iron rods. Installation of elements occurs from 2 pieces on the end side with a loop.

Advantages of anti-removal pins

It is impossible to remove the door when sawing off the hinges by intruders, since the pins are securely fixed in the frame when the door is closed;
When installing the pins, the integrity of the canvas does not suffer;
The attractiveness and style of the surface does not change in any way and remains at the same level.

Installing a steel sheet to strengthen a garden door

To increase the strength and reliability of a garden door, the most common method is to install an aluminum or steel sheet. The material must be selected in such a way that the sheet is slightly larger than the door leaf and protrudes beyond its limits.

This method of reinforcement involves strengthening the hinges, since the weight of the door will increase significantly, due to which the structure will sag or become deformed; the base will also need to be covered with metal corners.

Another way is to upholster the canvas with metal mesh. The process will require steel strips, which are installed from the inside. To insulate the structure, mineral wool is used, the material is fixed over the mesh and then covered with leather substitute.

Replacing a lock on a cottage door

If there is a simple or faulty lock on the front door of a country house, then it is necessary to replace it, since this element is the basis for protection against the entry of unauthorized persons. For places not intended for permanent residence, it is better to choose more complex locking mechanisms, for example, a combination of a cylindrical and lever lock will be an excellent security solution.

Additional ways to protect your country house

A high level of security will ensure the safety of your property, and any measures to strengthen the door at the dacha will not be superfluous.

In an ordinary modern apartment, the front door is a wooden frame, sheathed on both sides with plywood or hardboard. Breaking it or squeezing it out along with the box is not difficult. In short, we need to think about how to strengthen it. We advise you to do this. Remove the door from its hinges, place it horizontally on two stools and carefully, using a chisel, separate the top sheet of door trim. Now we have to fill the internal space of the frame. To do this, you will need edged boards or timber of appropriate thickness. Collect them into a single block and insert them into the free space. The block is secured with nails or long screws through the end of the frame. Coat all joints with additional wood glue. And when the glue dries, nail the top sheet of door trim. The door is ready, you can put it in place.

Try to immediately eliminate a number of minor defects. Excessive friction can be eliminated by rubbing the surfaces with laundry soap. If this is not enough, the edge of the door is leveled with a plane. But first check that the hinges are not loosely screwed on. Perhaps friction caused the door to lower. Tighten the screws. And if they rotate and do not stay in the box, replace them with longer ones or insert wooden plugs into the holes using wood glue or PVA and after a while, after drying, screw the screws in again. The door can be further raised by placing wire washers between the hinge elements.

After hanging the door on its hinges, check its operation. It should close easily and not touch the jamb.

The next stage is strengthening the castle. Prepare two steel or aluminum sheets 1.5-2mm thick. Select their dimensions so as to cover the location where the lock is installed (Fig. 1). The sheet placed on the inside should be wider than the door thickness and bent at an angle of 90 degrees. The marking of the holes corresponds to the size and configuration of the keyhole tongues and handles. After placing the sheets on the door, tighten them with a clamp and drill through holes. Then cut threads in the holes of the outer sheet. And on the inside, drill them out 0.5 mm and countersink them. In a word, put the sheets on the door and tighten them with screws. Check the operation of the locks and eliminate jamming if necessary.

The door jamb adjacent to the door on the locks side can be strengthened with a metal corner bent from a steel strip 1-1.5 mm thick. Before installation, holes for the locking tongues and mounting holes are selected. Install the corner on screws 35-40 mm long, flush-mounted.

To strengthen the door frame, prepare four steel pins with a diameter of 8-10 mm and a length of 200 mm, two pieces of metal tube with an internal diameter of 15-20 mm and a length of 25-30 mm. Using a long Pobedit drill, drill holes in the jamb with a diameter of 8-10 mm and a depth of 200 mm and hammer metal pins into them (Fig. 2). The pins driven into the jamb from the hinge side should protrude 10 mm... Then, at the end of the door opposite the pins, drill holes for the outer diameter of the tubes. Hammer them into the end. When closing the door, the pins should fit freely into them (Fig. 1)

The tubes can be replaced with steel plates with holes for pins (Fig. 4). Such a simple device will not allow you to remove a closed door from its hinges or press it.

Let's talk about another method of fastening. Through holes are drilled in the box and the wall opposite each other. Steel bolts of suitable length and diameter 8-10 mm are inserted into them. The nuts of the bolts must be locked on the inside of the door. The bolts are tightened with soft steel wire from the inside and outside. It is necessary to make grooves under the wire ties in the wall, which are then plastered with mortar and putty (Fig. 3).

And finally, remember a simple and useful truth: the more locks there are on the doors and in the apartment, the more difficult it is for a stranger to get into it.

V.KONOVALOV

ADDITIONAL DOOR LOCKS

Non-standard (homemade or custom-made) locks are much more difficult to open. And if they have two or three degrees of protection, then only the owner who has the key can open them.

A small disclaimer. If we have an iron entrance door installed, then it is impossible to open it with a crowbar. A wooden door (even a massive one) cannot resist a crowbar. What can be done to reliably strengthen a wooden door? It will be equipped as follows. The door jamb (door frame) is reinforced on both sides with a steel angle 45x40 (45x45.40x25) as shown in Fig. 1, a. The fastening bolts (in increments of 30-40 cm) must be securely fastened to the wall. It is better to put them on epoxy putty.

The doors themselves are additionally reinforced with three transverse steel strips I on each side of the door (Fig. 1.6). Overlays 2 are made from the same strip. Strips with a pitch of 20 - 25 cm are tightened with bolts with a diameter of 6 - 8 mm with a semicircular head without a slot. If there are no such bolts, proceed as follows. In the outer strips, the mounting holes for the bolts are cut as shown in Fig. 1, p. A stud with a diameter of at least 2 mm is placed under the head of each bolt. The nuts are located on the inside of the door.

The locks are attached directly to strip 1. Therefore, strips 1 (or one of them) must have a width depending on the design of the lock. After installing the locks, the door is upholstered (insulated) and thereby hides the results of the work.

Next about castles. Once the author had to listen to the revelation of a former “safecracker”, at that time a plumber. He, who could open any standard lock in a matter of minutes, gave up: he could not open a mortise internal lock, the key to which was lost by the owner. Having visited this apartment some time later (it was necessary to repair some of the plumbing), he first examined the castle. What was discovered? The lock embedded in the door is locked in the *open* position. There is a rim lock installed behind the door (Fig. 2,a). The key went through the first lock and opened the second.

If you do not lock the first lock in the “open” position, then an experienced burglar will detect this trick and understand everything. To introduce the second degree of protection, you just need to hang a slightly spring-loaded curtain 1 (Fig. 2.6) made of sheet metal 0.8 - 1.0 mm thick on the padlock. It can be moved to the side if key 2 has a specially made bevel 3. Stop 4 fixes curtain 1 in such a position that bevel 3 of key 2 can move (rotate) curtain I to the right and get into the rim lock.

One of the non-standard locks (Fig. 3, a) has a peculiar key 10 with a curved bit. The lock works as follows (the lock cover is conventionally removed). To open the lock, insert the KEY with the bit down, insert it into the lock so that the key bit comes out on the other side. Turn the key clockwise approximately 135° and apply it towards yourself. In this case, the key bit enters hole 1 of the bolt 5. By turning the key clockwise, we move the bolt to the right and open the lock.

Let's look at the design of the castle. If the lock is installed on steel strip 1 (Fig. 1.6), then it will serve as the base of the lock. On strip 1 (Fig. 3, a) two eyes 3 and 4 made of sheet steel with a thickness of 2.5-3.0 mm are secured with rivets 2. In eyes 3 AND 4, valve 5 with a cross section of 35x4 mm can move. The movement of the latter is limited in both directions by rod 6 with a diameter of 8-10 mm. It is attached to the steel strip I and screwed to the eye 4 with a nut 7. The valve 5 has a slot 8, through which a rod 6 is inserted.

To open and close the lock from inside the room, there is a rod-handle 9, which fits into the slots in the lid. There is another cutout in the lid (in Fig. 3, and it is shown in dash-and-dotted form) for manipulating the key when opening and closing the lock.

One degree of protection for this lock is the shape of the key 10. By installing a special latch lock on the lock (Fig. 3.6), we will introduce another degree of protection. The latch is fixed on the other side of strip 1 and is recessed into the door itself (the door is wooden). A base 2 is attached to strip 1 on two screws with spring washers. The metal rod 3 of the clamp at one end enters the partition 4 (the base, like the partition, is made of sheet steel about 1 mm thick). The other end of the rod 3 enters the hole of the strip 1 and the valve 5 (the lock is closed and the valve 5 cannot be moved). When the lock is opened, the key bit 6 enters the bolt hole from the inside, recesses the lock rod 3, compressing the spring, and releases the bolt 5. The lock can be opened.

If you want a lock that locks both sides of the door, then the lock shown in Fig. 4, a. Two long valves I and 2 can move in three lugs 3.

The right valve is composite, paired or riveted from two sections (their connection is shown in Fig. 4a with an asterisk). Steel valves 1 and 2 with a cross-section of 50x4 mm. The lugs (top linings) are made of sheet steel about 2 mm thick.

Both valves 1 and 2 have holes 4 and 5 with teeth in the middle. Moreover, the teeth of valve 1 are located at the top, and for valve 2 - at the bottom. A toothed drum 6 is engaged with the teeth of both valves 1 and 2. It is turned from steel on a lathe. The teeth of drum 6 are machined with a milling cutter 4 mm thick. All drum dimensions are given in Fig. 4.6. The round hole in drum b, marked with an asterisk (using needle files), is processed into a square. This is the receiving hole for the key. It may have a different configuration.

The necks of the gear drum are made so that on one side the neck fits flush into the hole of strip 7 (the base of the lock), and on the other hand it fits flush into the upper plate of the middle eye 3.

The gear drum, the teeth of which are slightly offset, is rotated by a four-sided key 8. Moreover, when turning it clockwise, valve 2 is to the right, and valve I is to the left. The heads of both valves extend from the outer lugs 3 and fit into the corresponding holes in the jamb. The door will be securely closed.

To fully guarantee against breaking of a wooden door, locks with a so-called inclined latch are installed. Two such castles are shown below. The peculiarity of such locks is that the latch of a closed lock is securely fastened in the lock and in the door jamb. So an attacker using a crowbar must break the steel latch of the lock, and this is beyond his power.

The first lock with a cap latch is shown in Fig. 5, a. On the base 1, on four rivets 2 each, two eyes 3 and 4 are installed. The upper linings of the eyes are made of steel sheet with a thickness of 2.5 - 3.0 mm. In eyes 3 and 4, a cap latch 5 with a cross section of 40x4 mm can move. The movement of this latch to the right and left is limited by the rod 6 (its diameter is at least 8 mm), it is securely fixed in the base 1 and in the eye 4. In the latch 5 there is a corresponding hole 7.

Three cuts were made in the cap latch 5. The first 8 is for the key, the second 9 is for fixing the latch 5 in the lock, the third 10 is for placing the latch 5 on the rod 11 (steel, with a diameter of at least 8 mm), securely fixed in the door jamb.

In Fig. 5 the lock is closed. When turning key 12 clockwise, latch 5 first rises upward. At the same time, it will disengage with rod 11 and lock 9. Then it will go to the right and open the door.

The first level of protection for this lock is a non-standard key. The second is a special stopper 13, which fixes the latch 5 in the lower (closed) position. In Fig. 5, and hole 13 (from where the stopper extends) is shaded. The place where the stopper opening device is located must be masked. For example, this is an ordinary long screw. A hole is drilled in the door (Fig. 5, b). Bushing I with thread is pressed into it. Screw 2 is screwed into sleeve 1. The hole in the door is masked with insert 3: a tube of thin sheet metal with a head from a decorative nail soldered to it (the entire door is covered with the same nails).

The stopper actuation device can have many options. Here you can use a Bowden cable, an electromagnet, etc.

The second lock with a cap latch (Fig. 6, a) has an original drive. Its basis is truncated gear 1. In the figure, the lock is closed. If you insert key 2 into the quadrangular hole of gear 1 (the hole in it can be triangular, oval, or another, depending on the adopted shape, use the keys to rotate it counterclockwise, then latch 3 first rises and disengages with rod 4 (fixed in the door jamb) and latch 5. Then it will move to the left until the door opens.

The lock stopper (second degree of protection) is shown in Fig. 6.6. At the end of the truncated gear 1 there is a washer 2 with a small central hole. A flat spring 3 is pressed against it. One end of the spring is fixed to the lock cover. At the other end it has a locking tooth 4 (there is a hole for it in the cover), which fixes the truncated gear, preventing the lock from opening. When the key is inserted into the lock, the thin rod 6 of the key (Fig. b, a) will lift the spring 3, and the locking tooth 4 will release the truncated gear 1, allowing the lock to be opened.

All locks must have devices that lock the bolt (latch) at night. Locks must have a handle rod (see Fig. 3, a) for opening and closing the lock from inside the room.

Attention!!! The information contained on this page has been added from unverified sources and may be out of date and contain errors. Therefore, it is provided for informational purposes only.

Are you looking to enhance the protective characteristics of your door leaf? Are you worried about frequent thefts? Do you want to strengthen your front door in the area of locks urgently, but don’t know how to do it? If you have visited this site, then you are on the right track. Our professionals know about the basic techniques that are aimed at strengthening the door leaf, so they will select the optimal solution.

How to properly strengthen the front door in the area of locks?

Strengthening the locking mechanism is a frequent service that Moscow residents want to use. After all, every resident of the capital strives to protect himself from thefts, attacks by intruders and ill-wishers. What can be done in this case? There are several excellent options that will allow you to properly strengthen your front door in the lock area:

Magnetic armor pads. Rotary or sliding models are designed to complicate the process of accessing the locking mechanism. Competent installation of magnetic armor plates carefully closes the well from access by keys and other foreign objects. Only the owner, who has a special key, can open the door.
Armor plates. An additional level of protection is manganese armor plates. Drilling out the locking mechanism mounting points will be extremely difficult as they add approximately 3mm of steel sheet to the lock area.
Coded armor pads. These functional items are usually produced by the popular Cisa brand. They are installed specifically on the products of this manufacturer. As a result, the lining carefully closes the hole to the lock, and is driven by the cylinder part of the coded armored lining. The cylinder itself directly activates the key.

As statistics show, those door leaves that are not reinforced in the lock area are broken into. After all, to open them, attackers need a minimum of time and effort. Therefore, it is reasonable to strengthen the front door in the area of locks, because this measure will allow you to avoid unpleasant consequences.

Important reasons to strengthen the front door and installed locks in one visit of the master

Of course, installing the above functional elements on the lock is quite difficult. Initially, you also need to purchase these products. It is clear that not every armor plate will suit your lock. We advise you to first familiarize yourself with its technical characteristics. It makes sense to entrust this work to the masters of Zamki-SAO.
There are good reasons for this, namely:

Flexible prices. We are able to strengthen the front door inexpensively, since we purchase materials from suppliers and not from intermediaries. By ordering a service from us, you will not learn about the sad consequences of hacking.
A complex approach. By contacting us, you do not need to waste time searching for a suitable armor plate, installing it, or studying the technical characteristics. All these actions will be performed by our professionals, who will also advise you.
Emergency visit of a specialist. Don't put off what can be done today - this is the motto of our company. The matter concerns the safety of clients, which means it cannot tolerate any hiccups. We travel around Moscow and Moscow Region immediately after your call.
4. Premium service. Nothing pleases customers more than competent consulting assistance, 24/7 service, attractive discounts and bonuses. All these components are waiting for you.

The Zamki-SAO company provides the opportunity for a relatively cheap strengthen the front door in the lock area for one visit of the master. You don’t need to look for a specialist or wonder how to protect yourself. Customer trust is the main value for us. You contact us, and we successfully carry out a set of measures aimed at strengthening the door leaf in the area of locking mechanisms. We are waiting for applications!

Experts advise that if the fabric is of poor quality, then it is better not to carry out strengthening measures, since the level of safety will still remain at the same level.

Door frame strengthening technology

Checking and selecting hinges for a country door

Advantages of hidden hinges

Due to the hidden device, an attractive and presentable appearance is guaranteed;
Increased level of safety, since the hinges cannot be cut or knocked down;
If necessary, the internal loops can be replaced with conventional devices;
Simple adjustment, which ensures a complete and uniform fit to the box.

Features and advantages of anti-removal pins

If the doors have external hinges, then the structure must be reinforced with 12 mm iron rods. Installation of elements occurs from 2 pieces on the end side with a loop.

Advantages of anti-removal pins

It is impossible to remove the door when sawing off the hinges by intruders, since the pins are securely fixed in the frame when the door is closed;
When installing the pins, the integrity of the canvas does not suffer;
The attractiveness and style of the surface does not change in any way and remains at the same level.

Installing a steel sheet to strengthen a garden door

Replacing a lock on a cottage door

Additional ways to protect your country house

A high level of security will ensure the safety of your property, and any measures to strengthen the door at the dacha will not be superfluous.

How to strengthen a metal entrance door. Ways to strengthen a wooden front door

How to strengthen a wooden door?

Ways to strengthen a wooden front door

How to strengthen a wooden door?

How to strengthen a wooden swing entrance door: options for strengthening

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