How to fix a PVC window sill. Installing a plastic window sill: technology and necessary tools


How to properly install a window sill on plastic windows? This task is absolutely within the capabilities of any man who knows how to hold it correctly. construction tool in hand. Today there are many materials from which these structures are made, they all have different advantages and some disadvantages. Before purchasing a window unit, you should take care of choosing a window sill so that it and the frame are perfectly combined. The installation features and varieties of these structural window elements are discussed below.

The role of the window sill in the window


Before studying the question of how to attach a window sill to a plastic window, you should consider why this structure is needed in a modern house?

Functions of window sills:

  • preventing the penetration of cold air from the connection between the window and the opening;
  • reducing the difference between the opening and the frame;
  • collection of condensate that will form during fogging of double-glazed windows;
  • covering the visible part of the wall in the area of ​​the opening;
  • decorating the room;
  • a place for placing flowers and other interior items;
  • table, workplace for office, children's room.

Based on what specific functions will be required by the owners of the premises, the material of this structural element is selected. This can be a wooden window sill, which will match wood furniture, or a modern polyvinyl chloride one that can withstand any impact.

Types of window sill


You can answer the question of how to secure a window sill after you know what raw materials it is made from.

Modern industry offers the following materials:

  • natural stone (granite, marble);
  • artificial stone (made from acrylic, quartz);
  • natural wood (larch, oak, pine, cherry);
  • composite materials (chipboard, MDF);
  • polyvinyl chloride

A natural stone


Window sill made from natural stone, this is an excellent room decor, clearly demonstrating the wealth of the owners, as well as their good taste.

Advantages:

  • high aesthetic appearance;
  • a variety of colors and patterns that allow it to harmoniously fit into any interior;
  • high strength, granite or marble from which such structures are made are second only to diamonds in terms of this indicator;
  • absence of any reaction to changes in the atmospheric environment (heat, frost), high air humidity, constant exposure ultraviolet rays;
  • unlimited service life.

This material also has some disadvantages:

  • the surface of the stone type is distinguished by a polished surface, reminiscent of a mirror plane: scratches easily remain here (when it comes to marble, granite withstands this kind of impact);
  • marble is a limestone material, so it can deteriorate under the influence of acid, including acetic acid; it perfectly preserves tea or coffee stains once planted;
  • both minerals easily accumulate radioactive radiation inside (therefore, in regions where radiation levels are high, it is better to avoid such materials);
  • materials have high level thermal conductivity (for marble 2.9, for granite - 3.5);
  • limited sizes (large sizes are difficult to polish, transport, install);
  • after accidental damage to the surface, the appearance of cracks, chips, it will be impossible to restore it;
  • the design is quite heavy;
  • Not a large number of color solutions(however, the natural color of these materials does not require such variety);
  • high price.

Fake diamond


Install a window sill for plastic windows from artificial stone not much cheaper than natural ones.

Artificial stone includes raw materials made from quartz agglomerate or acrylic.

Advantages:

  • small weight;
  • ease of transportation and fixation;
  • the ability to create any size;
  • high strength (slightly lower than that of natural stone, but higher than that of polyvinyl chloride and wood);
  • long service life;
  • the ability to obtain unique patterns and colors obtained by adding different components to the mixture;
  • ease of cleansing;
  • the material is not afraid of moisture and does not collect odors;
  • artificial stone is always warm, like natural wood;
  • lends itself to restoration work using glue, grinding, and heat treatment.

Flaws:

  • traces of hot objects remain on it;
  • is destroyed under the influence of aggressive chemical compounds;
  • ease of abrasion under the influence of abrasive particles (this is especially visible on surfaces of dark shades, polished to a shine);
  • high price, sometimes exceeding that of natural stone.

Important! The damage mentioned above can be easily removed by specialists, for a considerable fee.

Tree


You can always make a wooden window sill for the windows. This design has been used for a long time. Despite the decreased tendency to install such products today, many people prefer them.

Before installing a wooden frame, you should evaluate its advantages:

  • high environmental friendliness of the material;
  • durability of the operational period;
  • excellent thermal insulation;
  • excellent color and pleasant texture, ideally fitting into any interior, both modern and antique;
  • natural warmth of raw materials.

Installing a wooden window sill has a number of disadvantages:

  • fear of water and rooms with high humidity levels: the surface swells and deforms. That is why pre-treatment of the entire surface with varnish and paint is so important;
  • the need for constant maintenance, for example, timely and regular repainting;
  • deformation due to close contact with batteries central heating or other heat sources. When it is not possible to ensure the maximum distance between these two objects, it is better to abandon wood.

As for the cost, a pine board can be purchased for the price of polyvinyl chloride, and an oak board will cost about the same as granite or marble.

Composite materials


The window sill of a plastic window can be created from chipboard, MDF. These composites allow the structure to be installed where needed. Both materials do not have very high quality indicators. Despite the fact that the properties of MDF are slightly higher than those of chipboard, both types have the following disadvantages:

  • swelling after contact with liquid;
  • low protection of wood-shaving composite;
  • ease of damage to tiles under the influence of sharp objects and high temperatures.

Polyvinyl chloride


Attaching window sills from polyvinyl chloride is considered the most the best way frame a modern window system.

The plastic structure is a panel with a thickness of 2 cm, folded from two thin sheets (one three-millimeter, the other 2.5 mm). They are connected by stiffening ribs; the greater their number, the higher the strength of the product.

Installing such a product allows you to achieve the following goals:

  • save money cash: their cost is lower than that of stone (artificial, natural), as well as wood;
  • get the same service life in comparison with the window system;
  • choose any design style, which allows you to fit such a design into every interior;
  • create excellent thermal insulation of the room;
  • insert a durable structure;
  • carry out all installation work yourself.

We must not forget about the disadvantages of this type of raw material:

  • fear of exposure to high temperatures;
  • low strength indicators.

Important! Correct operation of such structures allows you to enjoy their functionality and convenience for a long time.


Having considered the features, what it looks like, how this or that material differs, we come to the question,
how the window sill is attached to a plastic window. A window sill is considered an essential element of a window opening; it performs not only decorative, but also practical functions.

To choose a truly high-quality product, you should follow a number of important recommendations:

  • a certificate is required confirming that the product has passed quality control and is safe for human health;
  • it is important to study the characteristics of the material: resistance to ultraviolet rays, mechanical strength, resistance to condensation;
  • it's better to buy a device white, it definitely won’t become paler from constant exposure to the sun’s rays, scratches are hardly noticeable on it (colored models most often suffer and lose their presentation precisely because of these two factors);
  • You should not buy the cheapest polyvinyl chloride, it will definitely turn yellow after some time, it is better to purchase products from the middle price segment;
  • prefer plastic with a large number of stiffening ribs, they guarantee the strength of the product and the ability to withstand large loads;
  • In order not to make mistakes in the calculations, it is better to take measurements with the help of a previously invited professional.

Advantages and disadvantages of PVC products



Before installing a window sill in a window opening, you should evaluate its qualities.

Advantages of plastic construction:

  • ease;
  • external attractiveness;
  • long service life;
  • resistance to moisture, so the structure will not begin to rot under the influence of condensation constantly collecting under the surface;
  • regular care allows you to forget about dirt, microcracks, mold;
  • affordable level of pricing policy;
  • resistance to aggressive chemicals;
  • plasticity, due to which the material is easily cut according to predetermined dimensions;
  • ease of independent installation work;
  • high thermal insulation performance.

Important! PVC products can be coated with a special coating, which prolongs their lifespan performance characteristics, increase resistance to high temperatures.

The only drawback of the raw material is its not the highest strength, especially in comparison with natural stone.

Installation methods

How to install a window sill to a plastic window? The window sill is mounted in the opening in different ways:

  1. Fastening with a special solution: the method was often used several years ago, today new ones have appeared, modern technologies, characterized by convenience and functionality. Now this method is practically not used.
  2. Using spring brackets, screwed to the substitution profile with special self-tapping screws. The structure, in this case, is mounted in a special groove located between the window and the bracket.
  3. Fastening with self-tapping screws: quick way when fastening occurs directly to the frame.
  4. Installation without fastening fittings, the work is done with special wedges that press the edges of the slab to the frame. This method requires a lot of time, but is highly reliable.

Required tools and materials


Before installing a window sill on a plastic window, you should prepare all the necessary tools in advance.

To complete the planned amount of work, you will need:

  • material of construction;
  • construction foam for installation, it is poured into the cavity between the wall and the product;
  • silicone sealant, which is used to seal the joints between the frame and the slope panels;
  • metal perforated strip, self-tapping screws;
  • putty used to close the grooves in the wall;
  • plugs attached to the ends of the window sill;
  • wooden, plastic wedges that are attached under the window sill (three pieces per window block).

Required tools:

  • tape measure for taking measurements;
  • spatula - apply construction mixtures;
  • rubber mallet or mallet;
  • a hammer drill with which to make a groove;
  • level;
  • pencil or marker;
  • screwdriver;
  • Phillips screwdriver;
  • stationery knife;
  • clean rags.

In addition, you will need a device to prepare a plastic profile by cutting it into the required parts:

  • grinder: works quickly, leaves smooth edges at the cutting line;
  • electric jigsaw: a metal file is attached to it;
  • hacksaw for metal: found in every home.

Preparing the base


Before attaching the window sill to a plastic window, you need to start preparing the base, as the most basic place for attaching the entire structure. This is required so that the construction foam comes into full contact with the walls.

The base of the opening is prepared as follows:

  • cleared of construction waste;
  • remove excess foam remaining after installation work on the window unit;
  • foam particles are cut out from under the lower opening, with a depth of up to 3 cm, in order to partially pinch the window sill with the double-glazed window structure;
  • They make a recess in the wall with a width of up to 7 cm, a depth of about 2-3 cm, there will be a foam seam where the plastic panel will lie.

Installation work

How to install a window sill on plastic windows? Mount the window sill
A plastic window located indoors should be installed in such a way that this product does not cover the central heating devices in any way. Otherwise, air circulation will be disrupted, which will cause condensation on glass surfaces.


Progress of installation work:

  • According to pre-made measurements, cut the canvas with a grinder. Be sure to take into account the protrusions from the wall (from 2 to 4 cm) on each side. When the opening has a complex configuration, you should first make a sketch on cardboard, which you need to try on the opening. If the system fits well into the groove, the contour is transferred to a plastic panel;
  • when the house is no longer new, the opening may be much lower than the groove located under the frame. To reach the desired height, wooden blocks are placed under it. Only then is the workpiece inserted into the groove with a depth of up to 2 cm;
  • The level regulates the level of the product: you need to change its height using thin wood wedges. They are placed at a distance of 30 to 40 cm from each other (they will remain there after the installation work is completed, serving as holding tools);
  • place a window sill with a slight slope towards the inside of the room (about 5 mm), this is necessary so that the condensation rolls off and does not stagnate at the frame;
  • foam the entire cavity under the canvas, it is better to apply two-component composition. If regular foam is used, the surface will have to be loaded with heavy objects;
  • when 24 hours have passed, the cargo is removed (if it was delivered);
  • excess foam is cut off using a stationery knife;
  • Plastic plugs are mounted on the sides.

How to seal foam under the windowsill?


Having figured out how to install a window sill, it becomes clear that installing a window sill on plastic windows is not a difficult task. You can close the foam that will be under the structure using one of the following methods:

  1. An adhesive solution used to fix the tiles. When the foam is cut flush, an adhesive is applied on top. When painting the walls further, the sanded area is first puttied. If you want to stick wallpaper on this area, the surface is treated using an acrylic primer.
  2. Cover the foam with vapor-permeable tape. A decorative cover plate is placed on top. It can be made of aluminum, polyvinyl chloride, wood.

Attaching a window sill to a plastic window contains several tips from professionals that you should consider to avoid common mistakes.


  1. When working with a hammer drill, be sure to use safety glasses and gloves to prevent injury.
  2. The plastic sheet should not extend beyond the slope line by more than 6 cm, otherwise air circulation will be disrupted, which will cause fogging of the double-glazed windows.
  3. Construction foam will attach faster and hold more securely when the surface where it is applied is pre-wetted with water from a spray bottle.
  4. You cannot apply a lot of foam: when it dries, it expands, pushing the panel upward, even when loaded with mass. To avoid such a reaction of the composition, small cavities are left between the strips of the substance, which will certainly close during its natural expansion.
  5. During PVC trims slabs, you should check the measurements several times and only then cut the blade.
  6. When the canvas cannot be inserted into slopes, under the profile, it must be precisely inserted inward. The connecting points are sealed with silicone sealant without a colored appearance.

As you can see, the installation work of installing a plastic window sill is not very difficult. Every person who knows how to hold construction tools in their hands can cope with this task.

Usually installing a window sill, plastic slopes and low tide occurs immediately after installation of the window. In most cases, this is done by a team of builders specializing in metal-plastic structures. But there are times when it becomes necessary to install a window sill with your own hands, and we’ll look at how to do it correctly in the article.

How to choose a window sill

There are various reasons why there is a desire or need to install a window sill with your own hands:


  • The window is in good condition, but the window sill is damaged (dirty, scratched, melted, burned, etc.).
  • The old window sill was installed incorrectly.
  • There was a desire to install a window sill of a different color. For example, after renovation of a room, the color of the PVC plate does not match the new interior.
  • There is a need to replace the window sill with a wider or narrower one. A wider window sill is installed if you need to place a large number of objects on it, for example, pots of flowers or seedlings. A narrower window sill may be needed if too wide one interferes with the free movement of warm air from the battery upward and the air circulation in the room during the cold season. At the same time, the warm air from the battery does not heat the window, it “sweats”, dampness and even fungus appear.
  • It is difficult to find a craftsman who will take on such a small amount of work as installing one window sill.
  • Installing a window sill yourself is not at all difficult, and you can save money that could have been spent on paying a specialist.
  • It's just nice to make something useful with your own hands.

Important!A wide window sill visually enlarges the room and its usable area.

So, if there is a need to replace a PVC plate, you need to know that window sills are different:


  • colors, in addition to light and dark shades, there are imitations of stone and valuable species wood;
  • dimensions: width from 110 to 800 mm, length from 4050 to 6000 mm, thickness from 18 to 22 mm;
  • company and country of origin;
  • price (from 3 to 20 dollars per linear meter);
  • the quality of the material - polyvinyl chloride, including resistance to wear and scratching, resistance to heat, moisture and steam resistance, resistance to ultraviolet radiation, environmental friendliness, strength.

Did you know? Polyvinyl chloride has a very wide range of applications. Condoms are even made from PVC for people with latex allergies.

In addition to the window sill itself, it is necessary to purchase two end caps, which are installed on the side sections of the window sill at the final stage of installation work. If there is a need for a direct or corner connection of two window sill boards, you should purchase a universal corner connector for PVC boards.

Required tools and supplies

For high-quality installation of a plastic plate with your own hands, you will need the following tools and consumables:


  • Metal square.
  • Marker or pencil.
  • Roulette.
  • Primer.
  • Grinder, jigsaw or hacksaw.
  • Hammer (not necessary, only if the slope material is dense concrete).
  • Chisel and hammer.
  • Brush.
  • Building level.
  • Construction foam and gun.
  • A set of plastic supports or wooden blocks.
  • Cement, gypsum mortar or glue for installing bars to the required height or for raising the level of the base.
  • Sealant.
  • Masking tape.
  • Stationery knife.

Installation process

Regardless of whether the window sill slab is installed by a specialized installation team or by a person who is new to this business, the entire process of installing a PVC slab can be divided into several stages.


Preparatory stage

You should prepare the place where you plan to install the PVC plate, namely the lower part of the window opening and the side window slopes. The window sill should fit slightly into the wall on the sides, therefore, in the slopes it is necessary to cut connectors 1-2 cm deep on each side in order to insert a plastic plate there. To do this, the window sill is applied to the wall and marks for cuts are made with a pencil or marker. Next, carefully select the grooves so that the window sill fits freely into them. this work require care so as not to subsequently restore grossly damaged slopes and not to fill large holes in the slopes.

Important! In order to minimize the procedure for restoring slopes, you should treat them as carefully as possible during the installation of the window sill.

If the corners of the slopes were leveled using metal perforated corners, then you should carefully trim metal corner using a grinder. It is also advisable to use a grinder to make a horizontal cut in the slope. It is convenient to make the rest of the recess in the wall using a chisel and hammer. These tools are most suitable if the slope material is gypsum plaster. If the slopes are made of concrete, then the recesses in the slope should be made using a hammer drill. The side grooves in the slopes serve additional support for the window sill on the sides.



The lower part of the window opening and the support profile, which is located under the window frame and is used to install the window sill, should be cleared of pieces of plaster, concrete and brick that appeared during the process of creating grooves in the slopes. Then use a brush to sweep away all remaining debris and dust. The cleaned surface should be moistened. This is necessary for better adhesion of the polyurethane foam to the surface on which the window sill will be located. It is advisable not just to wet the surface with water, but to use a primer for these purposes. The soil strengthens the surface, removes dust and moisturizes it at the same time. Using a brush, generously apply primer to the surface, saturate all the holes, bulges, pores, and cracks.

Important! In order to prevent wind from blowing from under the window sill, you should check the quality of the foaming of the window frame and, if necessary, eliminate all shortcomings at the preparatory stage of work.

Window sill trimming

AND Having a finished window sill, you need to cut out a blank for the window sill from it. To do this, you need to calculate the length and width of the future window sill. The length of the window sill must be greater than the length of the surface for the window sill and extend beyond the slopes. The length of these protrusions depends on individual taste preferences, usually 5-7 cm on each side, but you can limit yourself to a protrusion of 1-2 cm.


The width of the workpiece is calculated by summing:

  • width of the window sill surface;
  • the depth to which the slab is inserted under the window into the stand profile (usually about 20 mm);
  • the protruding part of the window sill, which should not be more than 100 mm, so as not to interfere with the passage of heat from the battery.
Rectangles should be cut along the edges of the window sill, which prevent the canvas from sliding downhill. The plastic sheet is cut quite easily. You can choose any cutting tool: grinder, hacksaw, jigsaw. All nicks, irregularities and other small cutting defects will be covered with plastic end caps.

After the workpiece is ready, it needs to be tried on in place, that is, placed on the lower part of the window opening and placed into the recesses of the slopes and inside the stand profile. If any inaccuracies are identified during fitting, they should be eliminated before the final installation of the window sill.

Gasket Installation

Some installers install the window sill strictly perpendicular to the window and use a metal square for control. However, most experts believe that a properly installed window sill should have a slight degree of inclination into the room, so that if moisture appears, it will flow down.


To fix the desired installation option for the window sill blank, you need to place plastic spacers or wooden blocks along its plane. Their dimensions must be selected so that the surface of the PVC plate is perfectly flat. To install one window sill you need at least 3 supports (one in the middle and two closer to the edges). The distance between supports should not exceed half a meter. To prevent the spacers or wooden blocks from moving, it is advisable to glue them to silicone sealant, gypsum or cement mortar.

Important! The process of fitting and installing a PVC window sill must be constantly monitored by the building level.

The supports of the window sill should be placed at such a level that when trying on the window sill blank, no gaps will appear between the window sill and the window frame. If, to comply with this requirement, the supports are higher than 40 mm, this is unacceptable. A layer of foam exceeding 40 mm will not be of high quality, it will have voids, it will not be able to withstand the required load, and the thermal insulation properties will be insufficient. In this case, before placing pads under the window sill, you need to raise the level of the lower part of the window opening. This can be done with cement or gypsum plaster, self-leveling floor, etc.


Installation

At the preparatory stage of installing the window sill, we cleaned, strengthened and moistened the lower part of the window opening with a primer. By the time the window sill is installed, the primer has already dried, and for better adhesion and accelerating the hardening process of the foam, the surfaces with which it will come into contact polyurethane foam must be wet. Therefore, it is necessary to moisten both the lower part of the window opening and the lower part of the window sill. The PVC board is covered with a protective film. The edges of the window slab that will be mounted under the window frame and in the openings of the slopes must be cleaned of protective film.


It is advisable to keep the film on the remaining parts of the window sill until all repair work. To prevent wind from blowing from under the window sill, the first thing you need to do is lightly foam the space between the bottom of the window opening and the window support profile. Then the foam is applied in a wide strip under the far edge of the window sill, and then in dense strips over the entire plane of the base. For ease of foam application, additional extension nozzles are used.

Important! The height of the foam should not be greater than the level of the supports placed under the window sill. When foaming, the main thing is not to overdo it.

When hardened, the foam increases in volume so much that it can lift the window sill upward. To prevent such a nuisance, you need to put some kind of weight on the PVC plate. It is advisable to place something flat under the load so that the weight is distributed evenly. The load should be placed on the inner edge of the window sill, since the outer edge will already be securely pressed by the window block.


Checking deviations

We check once again whether there are any cracks, whether the window sill is installed evenly, Are the protrusions at the edges the same, is the required slope observed. If small irregularities are detected during the first two hours after installation, they can be easily corrected. It may be necessary to make several gentle blows with a hammer in the desired direction, and the formation of holes or bumps can be leveled by moving the load on the surface of the window sill.

Sealing gaps

Gaps and cracks appear at the junction of the window slab and the slope, the window sill and the window, and the window and the slope. Obviously, it is advisable to correct such shortcomings after all the main elements (window, window sill and slope) have been installed.


The gaps are sealed using silicone sealant, which is applied in a thin strip at the joints. It is advisable to seal the edges of surfaces on which the sealant should not come into contact with masking tape in advance. Moreover, excess sealant and masking tape should be removed immediately after applying the sealant. Once it dries, this will be much more difficult to do and the result will be less neat. Extra dried foam under the window sill should be removed. The foam is easily cut with a stationery knife. The resulting cavity should be filled ordinary plaster for walls.

Excess foam under the window slab must be removed so that the thickness of the plaster layer is at least 1 cm. Such a layer will lie securely and will not be pressed through during further work and operation.

Installation of clamps

At the final stage, the side edges of the window sill are protected with end caps, and the window sill itself is cleaned of the protective film.


How to wash a windowsill

When common home remedies such as: Soap, soda, vinegar, tooth powder, chalk turned out to be powerless in the fight against pollution; special chemicals will come to the rescue. Choice of modern household chemicals will be able to cope with any contamination on the plastic surface. You only need to correctly formulate your problem to the sales consultant in the household chemicals department, emphasizing that you need a product to clean plastic.


Careful operation and regular maintenance will help avoid problems associated with washing complex stains. The main thing is not to use metal scrapers and abrasives: they leave scratches in which dirt then accumulates.

It's up to you to install the window sill yourself or use the services of a specialized construction team. In fact, the process of installing a window sill is not complicated, but it requires the availability or acquisition of the necessary tools, consumables (the remains of which may no longer be useful) and work skills. If the first attempt to install a PVC slab with your own hands is unsuccessful, then the total cost of self-installation may turn out to be much more than the wages of a specialist.

Video: how to install a window sill with your own hands

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When installing plastic windows, installation specialists regularly encounter a situation where customers do not know what a window sill is for - they perceive it as a standard element of the window structure. In fact, a window sill has many functions, depending on which the material for the window sill board is selected. Let's fill the gap in knowledge and tell you about the functionality of the window sill, its types, the advantages and disadvantages of the material from which it is made, as well as how to install the window sill on plastic windows with your own hands.

Initially, the window sill had four functions:

  1. prevent the entry of cold air into the room in the area where the window structure connects with the base of the window opening;
  2. level the difference between the bottom of the window opening and the frame that is installed on the gaskets;
  3. collect condensation when window panes fog up;
  4. cover the visible part of the wall in the opening.

Over time, the role of the window sill has expanded. He became:

  • decorative element in the interior of the room;
  • stand for flowers and various figurines;
  • table in the kitchen, desk or work table in the nursery, living room, bedroom;
  • support when washing windows and hanging curtains;
  • a business card of the owners’ wealth;
  • a place to watch the street and relax.

Based on how the owners see their window sill, the material from which it is made is selected.

Types of window sill

The construction industry offers a base for the window sill from:

  • natural (granite, marble) and artificial (acrylic or quartz based) stone;
  • natural wood (oak, cherry, pine, larch);
  • composite materials (MDF, chipboard);
  • plastic (polyvinyl chloride).

A natural stone

A window sill made of natural stone is one of the few interior elements that very clearly demonstrates the wealth in the house, the status and good taste of the owners. Him:

  • handsome, respectable appearance, which remains until the end of operation;
  • a variety of colors and patterns, which allows you to fit it into any interior;
  • the highest strength - granite and marble are among the best minerals on the planet in terms of this indicator (second only to diamond);
  • no reaction to external influences in the form of temperature changes (does not burn and is not afraid of frost), high humidity, ultraviolet irradiation (does not fade in the sun);
  • has an unlimited service life - in old castles you can find stone window sills with a service life of several centuries;
  • easy to clean.

Natural stone also has disadvantages:

  • on a surface polished to a mirror finish, despite its high strength, it is quite easy to leave scratches with a sharp object (granite is more resistant to sharp objects);
  • marble is afraid of vinegar and acid (this mineral is essentially limestone). Tea and coffee stains are difficult to wash off;
  • both minerals accumulate radioactive radiation - it is better to avoid them in radiation-contaminated areas;
  • high level of thermal conductivity (granite - 3.5 W/(m x deg), marble - 2.9);
  • limited dimensions (a large slab is difficult to polish, transport and install);
  • in case of accidental damage (chip, crack), it cannot be restored;
  • heavy weight - the window sill-tabletop is in most cases supplied by tap through the window;
  • granite has a limited number of colors (to be fair, we note that the natural pattern of the material is fantastic);
  • high cost of the product.

Fake diamond

An alternative to a marble or granite window sill is an artificial stone made from acrylic or quartz agglomerate. The product has a lot of advantages:

  • light weight - easier to transport and secure;
  • there are no restrictions in size - thickness and width;
  • high strength - higher than that of PVC and wood window sills, but lower than that of natural stone;
  • long service life;
  • by adding various components to the mixture, you can get unique colors and patterns that imitate various natural materials;
  • is not afraid of moisture, is easy to clean from dirt, does not absorb odors;
  • warm to the touch, like natural wood;
  • Can be restored using glue, heat treatment and grinding.

The disadvantages of artificial stone are related to its nature:

  • afraid of high temperatures - traces of cigarettes and hot dishes remain on the surface;
  • is destroyed when interacting with aggressive chemicals;
  • is easily scratched and abraded (it is afraid of abrasive materials), which is clearly visible on polished plain surfaces, especially on black, chocolate and dark gray backgrounds;
  • high cost, in some cases exceeding the cost of natural stone.

For information: the above damage can be easily removed by specialists on site, without dismantling the window sill. But it costs money.

Tree

Like granite and marble, wood is a natural materials and has the same centuries-old history of use in window construction. With the advent of artificial materials on the construction industry market, the position of wooden window sills fell sharply, but still retained their fans and connoisseurs.

Wooden window sills have their pros and cons.

  • environmental purity of natural material;
  • durability during operation - do not break like natural stone, are not afraid of hot objects like plastic or acrylic board;
  • high level of thermal insulation;
  • beautiful color and original texture: the surface can be made glossy under modern styles interior design, or give the look of old wood - a country look;
  • high strength - can withstand the weight of a person and flower pots;
  • natural warmth both during direct contact and visual inspection.
  • is afraid of direct contact with water and wet rooms - the surface swollen with water is deformed, so such a window sill must be either painted or varnished;
  • constant care is required: first of all, regular and timely repainting;
  • does not tolerate close contact with central heating radiators (it becomes deformed) - if there is not enough distance from a constant heat source to the window frame, it is better to abandon the wooden window sill.

Experts do not have a consensus on the price factor: some consider it a plus due to the affordable price, others consider it a minus, due, on the contrary, to the very high cost of wooden window sills. Here, oddly enough, both sides are right. A pine window sill board is not too different in cost from plastic, while an oak board costs about the same as natural stone.

Composite materials

Composites - chipboard and MDF - are intended to replace natural wood. However, alternative window sills are greatly inferior not only to wooden ones, which they are intended to replace, but also to all other types of window sills. The main problem is their ability to swell when in contact with water.

Protection of wood-based material with waterproof film is not very reliable. The film is easily damaged by sharp objects and is susceptible to high temperatures. In this regard, laminated MDF is more reliable material, but also costs more.

Polyvinyl chloride

A plastic window sill is a hollow panel with a thickness of at least 2.0 cm made of two thin sheets (the upper one is at least 3 mm thick, the lower one is at least 2.5 mm thick), connected by stiffening ribs. The more ribs or thicker the sheets, the stronger the product.

Installation plastic window sill allows:

  • save money - its price is lower than the cost of natural and artificial stone, as well as wood;
  • synchronize the service life of the window sill board with the plastic window;
  • get a window element of various designs that fits into any interior, including wood or natural stone;
  • ensure good thermal insulation between the frame and the lower base of the window opening;
  • carry out all installation work yourself.

Among the disadvantages of PVC window sills it is necessary to note:

  • fear of high temperatures - traces of cigarettes and hot pots remain;
  • low strength.

With proper use, these shortcomings, as a rule, do not appear.

Please note that all types of window sills can be installed independently. Using an example of how to install a plastic window sill with your own hands, let’s look at general principle organization of work and describe the entire technology step by step, noting at the end the nuances of fastening this window element from other materials.

Materials and tools

Efficiency construction process depends on the correct selection of materials and necessary tools. To install a window sill in one window you will need:

  • window sill material;
  • polyurethane foam - poured between the window sill canvas and the wall of the house;
  • silicone-based plastic sealant - seals the joints between the window sill, window frame and slope panel;
  • perforated metal strip and self-tapping screws if additional fastening of the window sill is planned;
  • putty for sealing grooves in the wall;
  • plugs for the ends of the window sill;
  • wedges made of wood or plastic for the window sill (3 pieces per window).

Tools needed:

  • roulette;
  • putty knife;
  • mallet or rubber mallet;
  • a hammer drill for making a groove in the wall under the window sill;
  • one of the following tools for cutting plastic profiles. These can be: grinder - cuts quickly, accurately, with smooth edges along the cutting line; a jigsaw with a metal file as a cutting tool; a hacksaw - almost every home has one;
  • building level;
  • spray foam gun;
  • builder's pencil or marker;
  • screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver;
  • construction (stationery) knife with a retractable blade;
  • clean rags.

Preparatory work

Before installing the window sill, it is necessary to carry out a series of preparatory work:

  • take measurements of the window opening to determine the size of the window sill board;
  • select the window sill panel;
  • make grooves in the wall;
  • clean the base of the window opening from debris;
  • cut the window sill to size.

Window opening measurements

Quality installed window sill determined by several parameters. Among them important place takes into account the accuracy of the measurements taken and the calculation based on them of the size of the window sill. In case of plastic plate, bringing the window sill to size is done at home.

Other types of window sills are ordered ready-made. Therefore, errors in calculations, if they are made in a smaller direction, cannot be corrected. At large sizes you will have to enlarge the grooves and install brackets for additional support of the window sill.

The measurement is carried out in the following order:

1. The distance from the frame to the edge of the wall on both sides of the window is measured, i.e. The depth of the window opening is measured. To determine the actual width of the window sill, add 2 cm to the result obtained to go under the window structure and 4-6 cm to go beyond the wall into the room.

On many sites you can find a recommendation to extend 10 cm beyond the wall. Here, only the aesthetic perception of the window sill is taken into account. In technological terms, a large protrusion prevents warm air flows from heating radiators from spreading throughout the room (air convention is violated);

2. The distance between the walls next to the window is measured (line B in the figure), and then the length of the edge of the wall at the base of the window opening if the slopes are not made at right angles (line C in the figure). To the results obtained, 2-3 cm is added on each side so that the window sill board fits into the grooves on the wall (stone and wood are hidden in the slopes by 1.5-2 cm). In addition, 3-5 cm are added to the eyes.

Selecting a window sill panel

The plastic window sill has standard dimensions:

  • length 6 m;
  • width from 20 cm to 100 cm, with increments of increasing size by 5 cm to a width of 60 cm and 10 cm further.

Therefore, choosing the required size is not difficult - you can always cut off the excess. More difficulties arise when choosing a specific plastic model. Here you need to follow the advice of experts.

  1. Buy a window sill board with an allowance in size.
  2. Do not skimp on material - cheap plastic has low strength (fragile) and fades in the sun.
  3. Take a PVC panel of the same color as the window, unless there is a design solution for the interior, where the window sill can be used with natural materials.
  4. The stiffening ribs should not be positioned vertically, but at an angle, in the form of saw teeth - the panel has higher strength.
  5. Scratches and abrasions are less noticeable on white.
  6. The distance between the stiffeners should not exceed 35 mm.
  7. Study the certificate. It is necessary to pay attention to the percentage of polyvinyl chloride (the norm is about 60%) and chalk - no more than 5%.

Grooves are knocked out

The window sill board should extend 2-3 cm inside the slope. To do this, at the level of the base of the window opening, a groove measuring 50x50 mm is knocked out in the wall with a puncher. If you don’t have such a tool at hand, you can select a recess in the brick using a hammer and chisel.

If the slope is concrete, use a grinder with a special cutting wheel to make 2-3 cuts in the place where the groove will be. To avoid accidentally damaging the frame, a spatula is pressed tightly against it. It is easier to knock out cut concrete than monolithic one.

Preparing the base of the wall

The polyurethane foam must come into direct contact with the wall material. Therefore, the base of the opening is cleared of construction debris and foam that has excessively protruded when foaming the space between the frame and the walls. The foam is also cut out from under the lower window profile to a depth of 2-3 cm to partially pinch the window sill fabric by the window structure.

If the distance between the lower plane of the installed window sill and the base of the wall is less than 1 cm, a recess up to 70 mm wide and 20-30 mm deep is cut into the wall to form a foam seam on which the plastic panel will lie.

Preparing the plastic panel

Plastic window sill for sale rectangular shape. You need to insert a panel in the shape of the letter “T” with a wide leg (often placed in the shape of a rectangle or trapezoid). Therefore, the dimensions of the real window sill are transferred to the plastic and the cutting lines are drawn with a construction pencil. The required shape is cut along the lines.

Important: when installing windows, very often they shift along the vertical axis, when the distance from the edge of the wall to the frame is different on different slopes. In these cases, the rear side of the panel is cut obliquely so that a parallel is maintained between the wall and the window sill protrusion.

Window sill installation

Instructions on how to properly install a window sill on plastic windows are simple and easy to understand for beginners in the construction business. Let's look at all the operations step by step.

Step 1. The protective film is removed from the bottom side of the window sill, as well as from the sides at a distance of 3-4 cm.

Step 2. The window sill is tried on and inserted into the place of permanent fixation. If an undercut area is discovered, the inaccuracy is corrected.

Step 3. A vapor barrier tape is attached under the frame.

Step 4. Pre-purchased wedges (bars) are installed. There are several important points to consider here:

  • The minimum width of the bars is 5.0 cm;
  • The length of the wedge should be less than the width of the panel, but no more than 10.0 cm, and the block should not protrude beyond the wall;
  • The ideal distance between the bars is 40.0-50.0 cm. This rule does not apply to narrow window openings of Soviet-built houses - at least three bars must be placed under the windowsill on one window;
  • Under the wedges, the wall surface is leveled either with plaster mortar or putty;
  • Using a level, all supports are brought into one plane. In addition, the length of the block is aligned horizontally.

Step 5. A protective film 3-4 cm wide is removed from the surface of the plastic on the window side. Plugs are placed at the ends.

Step 6. The final test fitting is carried out, during which the following tasks are solved:

  • a tight fit of the window sill panel to the frame is ensured - if necessary, the bars are additionally adjusted;
  • the slope of the window sill board towards the room is ensured by 2-3 mm for every 20 cm of window sill width - necessary for condensate drainage.

Step 7 The installation seam is foamed onto the base of the opening.

Step 8 After the foam reaches the “touch-dry” state, a window sill is installed. Using a rubber hammer, he sits in a permanent place.

Step 9 The level once again checks the plane of the window sill. If necessary, adjustments are made - another gasket is installed (fourth) or the existing ones are adjusted.

Step 10 A small weight is placed on the window sill board closer to the room - in this way, a tight fit of the window sill to the frame is achieved due to the expanding foam.

Step 11 After half an hour, an additional 10 kg of weight is placed on the windowsill, after which the remaining space can be foamed.

Step 12 The grooves are sealed with putty, after which the slopes can be sheathed with plastic panels.

Step 13 The joints of the window sill with the slope panels and the frame are sealed with plastic sealant - silicone.

Step 14 After a day, the load is removed and the protective film is removed.

Now you can install the plugs at the ends and remove the protective film.

For information: on balconies and loggias, window sills are installed using the same algorithm.

The nuances of installing window sills from other materials

How to attach a window sill to a plastic window made of other materials? Window sill boards made of natural and artificial stone must be attached with glue. To do this, the base of the window opening is leveled cement-sand mortar. The ends of the stone are protected with felt.

Wooden window sill can be installed different ways:

  • by pressing method - under the frame;
  • on wedges;
  • on glue;
  • on the brackets.

Conclusion

On sale you can choose a window sill for every taste and at any price:

  • made of natural stone (granite, marble);
  • artificial stone (acrylic, quartz agglomerate);
  • wood;
  • Chipboard, MDF;
  • plastic.

Installation instructions are simple. Provides for the following types of work:

  1. measurements of the window opening are taken;
  2. a panel is purchased and then cut to size;
  3. grooves are knocked out in the wall;
  4. the base is cleared of debris;
  5. wedges are placed;
  6. the window sill plane is installed in accordance with the requirements of technological regulations;
  7. the window sill board is secured with mounting foam;
  8. the grooves are sealed with putty, the slopes are sewn up with plastic panels.

For balcony windows, installation of window sills is carried out according to the same scheme.



PVC windows have proven themselves well and are very popular, while their installation is mainly included in the cost of the product, which cannot be said about the window sill slab. Therefore, let’s look at how to properly install a plastic window sill yourself.

In fact, the choice of window sills is quite large. They are made from wood, natural or, as mentioned above, from plastic. So why should you give preference to the latter option? Of course, you can purchase any other, but it is PVC that will have the ideal combination of pricing and quality.

Thus, although wooden ones are considered environmentally friendly and natural, they nevertheless have quite serious disadvantages, which has led to a decrease in their popularity. For example, they are very picky about care, afraid of various chemicals and abrasive materials, and paintwork must be updated at least once every three years. In addition, they are afraid of high humidity and fire, and the highest quality products have a very high cost. What about stone window sills, their price is also not affordable for everyone. And the installation is quite complicated, so it’s very difficult to do it on your own.

The modern type of PVC window sills lacks all these features. Let's take a closer look at all their advantages, and, of course, their disadvantages. The first is ease of use. In principle, to return it to its original appearance, you just need to wash it clean water, but in the case of more serious pollution plastic is not afraid of exposure to chemicals. In addition, the installation of plastic window sills is very simple.

It is also impossible not to note the excellent strength characteristics of these products, their resistance to moisture, temperature changes, and fire. There is no need to worry about them turning yellow when exposed to sun rays, this won't happen. Despite the fact that white specimens are mainly in demand, you can order a PVC window sill of absolutely any color. The only inconvenience is that you will need to wait a little until this product arrives in your city. And, by the way, their price is significantly lower than that of analogues made from natural stone or expensive wood, while modern plastic also considered environmentally friendly.

The disadvantage is the likelihood that after just a few years various small cracks, creases and other defects may appear on the surface; however, with proper use, such problems arise many years later. You can still hear a theory about the dangers of plastic, however, this has not been confirmed by anything.

Before considering installation, it is worth making a choice, and for this you should know the entire range of such products. Products differ in the type of coating. The most common are window sill slabs covered with PVC film. They are characterized by not very good resistance to mechanical damage and thermal effects. In addition, over time they lose their appearance as they absorb dirt, dust and coloring matter therefore require careful care. But their main advantage is their low price.

The next type of material is laminated paper, which has excellent characteristics. This CPL coating, obtained by pressing paper sheets impregnated with melamine resins, is resistant to various mechanical stress, high temperatures, humidity, and chemicals. Its only serious drawback is the impossibility of restoration.

But the option that has EPL coating can rightfully be classified as a premium class. This product not only has excellent strength characteristics (the surface is almost impossible to scratch), but it even has antistatic properties, so dust will have to be wiped off much less frequently than with its analogues. Also the window sill has the most different variants designer execution, and it is also very pleasant to the touch. It will be velvety and warm, even if the room is quite cool.

How to install a plastic window sill - let's act

Having understood the types and features, you should pay attention to how to install a plastic window sill yourself.

How to install a plastic window sill - step by step diagram

Step 1: Measurements

So that the work goes easily and quickly, and the PVC plate fits harmoniously on seat, measurements must be taken correctly. First, we measure the depth of the window opening, or rather, its lower part, which our window sill will subsequently decorate. To this value you should add 12–17 cm, since the element itself should protrude by about 10 centimeters, and it will go under the window frame by about 2 cm. We add 10 cm to the total length, so that in the future it will go under the side slopes of 50 mm on each side.

Step 2: Surface Preparation

This stage is practically no different from other preparatory work, so we pick up a brush, a vacuum cleaner and clean the surface of various debris, dirt, etc. Then we treat it with a primer and let it dry thoroughly. However, there are some individual points, for example, you should check how tightly the window itself is inserted. If there are gaps between the frame and the window opening, they should be eliminated immediately, otherwise heat loss in winter cannot be avoided.

Step 4: Direct installation

It's time to figure out how to attach a plastic window sill, and what we need for this. Basically, nothing special: wooden wedges or special pads that can be found in any hardware store, low-expansion foam and a construction gun. First, we do a fitting to adjust the height of the wedges. The fact is that you need a slight slope (no more than one centimeter) from the frame, then condensation and moisture will not flow to the junction of the window and the window sill, which could lead to the formation of fungus. We also check the level so that the slab does not have differences in length.

Then, having installed the window sill and finally checked all the slopes, we blow out the space between it and the surface of the opening with foam. Why should it have a low expansion coefficient? Yes, everything is very simple, otherwise she will simply lift the product. Next, we place a weight on the surface, a weight of 15 kg will be quite enough, and wait until everything dries. Now you can admire the result, because the installation of the plastic window sill with your own hands is completed.


Almost any modern renovation involves replacing windows, and few developers would think of leaving the old, painted oil paint wooden or asbestos-cement window sill. Many people are familiar with the situation when the “window workers” finished their work and left, and the new window sill was left standing forlornly near the wall. What to do next? Looking for masters again?

A window sill is an essential element of a modern interior. At the same time, it performs not only a decorative function, not only serves as a stand for flowers and household appliances, but also actively participates in air exchange processes occurring near windows. Protection of the lower part of the window opening from possible condensation and mechanical damage, thermal insulation of one of the most problematic areas of external walls - this is the true, utilitarian purpose of a properly installed window sill.

How to choose a window sill

On this moment It is not difficult to buy a window sill made of durable, resistant to sunlight and temperature changes, and dimensionally stable. There are many options on the market, each of which has its own pros and cons. However, the main problems of choice come down more to issues of implementing design solutions and the thickness of the wallet.

Due to the low cost, from 55 rubles per linear meter, and good technical characteristics PVC window sills are most widely used. They have similar properties to plastic windows, as they are made from the same UV-resistant, moisture-proof materials. The multi-chamber structure with frequent bulkheads provides them with high compressive strength and excellent thermal insulation properties.

Light weight, ease of cutting and processing greatly facilitate the installation of plastic window sills. It is not a problem to choose the color of the finished product, including wood and marble imitation. The color can be transmitted either “in bulk”, for example brown, or in the form of a film according to the RAL catalogue. Most often, such window sills are made to match the window profile. The front surface of the PVC window sill has a matte texture or has varnish coating. It is easy to choose a plastic window sill that is suitable in size for almost any specific case. Large construction stores often have products with a thickness of 18-22 mm and a width of 100 to 600 mm. The strips come in lengths of 4 or 6 meters, but, as a rule, you can order them to be cut on site, or buy a window sill of any length. The main disadvantages of plastic window sills can be considered poor resistance to local damage: scratches, chips, punctures. They are practically beyond restoration.

Window sills made of MDF and chipboard can be laminated upper layer, be covered with cork or wood veneer. At a low price, they perfectly imitate expensive materials, including natural stone. Such products have good performance characteristics and thermal insulation properties. They are fairly easy to cut and install.

If the protective coating of MDF and chipboard window sills is not damaged, then they are not exposed to moisture, do not warp or swell. Laminated window sills are difficult to scratch. Their cost per linear meter can range from 150 to 1200 rubles for a width of 30 cm.

Window sills made of coniferous and hardwood are ideally suited to wooden windows, have a very beautiful texture, visible under transparent protective coating, but can also be painted in any color. They are also a good thermal insulator.

Depending on the properties of the wood used, they have a certain degree of high bending strength, resistance to scratches and dents, and they are also easy to repair. The thickness of wooden window sills is most often about 40 mm. Among the disadvantages, we can note the need to ensure their waterproofing, which completely depends on the condition and quality of the protective and decorative coating, which requires periodic updating. Prices for products made from oak, hornbeam, beech, cherry, and ash can hardly be called affordable. A high-quality window sill made of solid pine will cost at least 1000 rubles per linear meter, larch - 1800, beech - 3000, oak - 5000.

Window sills made of natural stone - marble, granite or onyx are perhaps the most expensive of all those on the market (from 3,000 rubles per linear meter), but their classic beauty, sophistication and prestige leaves no one indifferent. The assets of such products include expressive texture, the ability to choose color, size, shape, style of processing corners and edges. Stone window sills are not afraid of water and temperature changes, but to some extent they are susceptible to contamination due to porosity natural materials. Being quite fragile, natural stone products can be easily repaired. Their heavy weight, as well as difficulty in processing, make their installation somewhat difficult. Window sills made of natural stone do not have thermal insulation properties.

Models of window sills made of artificial stone have operational advantages - they are resistant to chemical pollution, relatively low thermal conductivity. Trouble (in low price category similar products) can cause scratches on the front surface and its fading. Of course, they are cheaper than analogues made from natural materials.

How to determine the required window sill dimensions

In order for a window sill to serve for a long time, be comfortable and functional, it must not only be installed correctly, but also its dimensions must be correctly calculated. In some cases, it makes sense to make a window sill in a factory according to exact dimensions. This problem is especially serious when working with stone, since it is quite difficult to process, and it will be very nice if you don’t need to adjust anything to the location. Window sills made of MDF and chipboard can be ordered with a fully processed edge, which also should not be cut, as it reliably protects the product from moisture.

The length of the finished product should be greater than the width of the window so that the window sill fits into the walls. Typically, 30 to 50 mm are allowed beyond the line of vertical slopes on each side. For example, if the window width is 1000 mm, then it would be logical to order the window sill 100 mm larger, 20 of which will be used for the light reversal of the slopes, 80 - for the side outlets (40 mm each). In the area of ​​the balcony block, one side of the window sill crashes into the wall, and near the door it should hang slightly, about 10 mm, over the short vertical slope.

The width of the window sill is mainly determined by the depth of the window opening. As a rule, the overhang of the window sill is about 30-50 mm from the wall. This size is explained by the fact that a window sill that is too wide can impede free circulation. warm air, coming from heating radiators, which can lead to the formation of condensation on the surface of double-glazed windows and side slopes. With a large overhang, the bending strength of the structure is significantly reduced.

To correctly determine the desired width of the window sill, it is necessary to complete the basic finishing of the outer wall - plaster, drywall. It will be quite enough to have installed beacons or metal frame. Measurements are taken with a tape measure from the window to a cord stretched in the plane of the wall or a rule installed across the opening.

Attention! It should be noted that the window sill, about 10 mm, fits under the frame, resting against the installation strip of the plastic window or a quarter of the wooden profile.

It can be especially difficult to measure window sills non-standard shape, such as on rounded walls, bay windows, kitchen window sills, countertops. Sometimes the window is unfolded in the opening, then if you want to have an equally protruding window sill cornice, its width will have to be made uneven. In all these cases, we recommend inviting specialists from the organization from which you will order them to make templates and patterns. The most accurate, flawless products are obtained from measurements made using geodetic equipment such as a tacheometer. A tape measure and a cardboard sheet do not always help.

The main principle is simple: “measure seven times, order once.”

When to install a window sill

If you decide to simply change the windows while preserving all the interior decoration of the premises, then there is nothing special to wait - you can start immediately after the polyurethane foam has dried.

But in the case of major repairs, the matter is a little more complicated. The reason for this is the vulnerability of the surfaces of an expensive product installed prematurely. During the process of extensive repair and construction work, when there are a large number of workers on site, guests from contractors (air conditioners, security system installers, stretch ceiling installers, furniture assemblers...), it is extremely difficult to keep the window sill intact. A flat horizontal surface, like a magnet, attracts you to place a tool on it, small or small, building material, put a cup of coffee, step on it with your foot to reach high ceiling. As a result, the window sill was replaced and the slopes were redone due to “from nowhere” scratches, dents, chips, and persistent chemical stains.

Many practicing builders have come to the conclusion that the installation of a window sill must be done at the very last moment, immediately before finishing. Naturally, by this time the entire range of preparatory work must be completed, including the installation and even plastering of walls and slopes.

How to prepare a place for installing a window sill

Depending on the type of product, its material and thickness, as well as the chosen fastening method, we will prepare the base. The first step is to remove all loose, protruding elements of the wall on which the window sill will rest, these are loose bricks, crumbling plaster, installation wedges, fasteners, embedded parts. If during dismantling work any through holes outside or into enclosing structures, it is recommended to foam them.

You also need to prepare grooves in the wall for the entry of the window sill; here you cannot do without the use of a small grinder and a hammer drill. If the slopes are sheathed with plasterboard or plastered, then their plane must be interrupted no lower than the window profile in order to form a technological niche.

Next, you should restore the masonry, and pour a flat area from a durable moisture-resistant mortar using the beacons to a given height. To install a window sill on polyurethane foam, it is advisable to have a gap of about 20 mm from the bottom of the product to the top of the installation area, this is so that the tube of the mounting gun can be inserted into the area of ​​the window frame. For installing a heavy stone window sill on a layer of most special adhesives only 5 mm will be required, that is, from the bottom of the window the platform should be lowered by 35 mm, where the thickness of the window sill will be 30 mm.

If outer wall covered with plasterboard metal frame, follows on correct height place a horizontal jumper running under the window. A common mistake made by novice installers of drywall systems is installing it too high.

Very important point preparatory work is to check the evenness of the lower edge of the window block. Certain problems are caused by poorly manufactured or incorrectly manufactured installed windows from PVC. Very often, at the junction of the vertical and lower horizontal profiles there are burrs that make it impossible to press the window sill tightly to the window - they need to be cut off with a knife. Another common defect is the shape of the lower profile in the form of one or several arcs, curved upward with their middle. Its presence can be easily checked by stretching a thread along the lower edge of the window from corner to corner. If a thin plastic window sill can be quite easily pressed against the window with wedges or foam, then with rigid products made from other materials everything is much more complicated, they only emphasize all the unevenness. The result is very unsightly cracks that will have to be sealed with all kinds of sealants. The reality is that even in new luxury buildings it is necessary to repair the plastic ones installed by the builders. window units— cut out the foam from under the window, remove wedges and fasteners, dismantle the double-glazed window and level the PVC profile in various ways. Sometimes the matter ends with a complete reinstallation or replacement of defective windows.

How to install and secure a window sill

No matter how accurately we make preliminary measurements, before installation the window sill often has to be trimmed a little, especially in the places where it enters the walls. It is best to cut wood, MDF, and chipboard with a jigsaw and a metal saw, but a plastic or stone window sill is best cut with a grinder with a diamond blade.

To press the window sill tightly to the window, you need to use wooden or plastic wedges. They are prepared based on the thickness of the product and installed near the window lintel with an interval of 400-500 mm. Some craftsmen prefer to glue them to the base in advance so that they do not move during installation. The correct selection of wedges is checked by dry fitting the window sill - the product should fit tightly.

The installation profile (window plate) should be thoroughly coated with silicone to seal the junction; the protruding mass can be subsequently trimmed off. It is also recommended to cover the end parts of the window sill made of MDF or chipboard with a layer of sealant, especially if there is damage to the protective coating.

The window sill is installed in its place and centered relative to the axis of the window or the lines of the side slopes. Wedges are also installed under the front part, adjusting the window sill according to the level. In most cases, the window sill cornice is made below its base, pressed 2-3 mm against the window, so that moisture does not accumulate near the junction.

A window sill made of MDF, chipboard, wood, or plastic can be additionally fixed by screwing it with long self-tapping screws through the window installation profile; to do this, you need to remove the outer ebb.

To prevent the expanding foam from pushing the window sill up, it is necessary to install 2-3 spacers running from the product to the top of the slope. We recommend installing level surfaces along the entire length of the window sill and on top. wooden beams to distribute the pressure from the spacers. They can be easily adjusted using wedges. Options for placing a load from scrap materials on the windowsill sometimes play a cruel joke on the craftsmen, and it all ends with re-installation.

Now you can foam the space under the window sill. The foam should be applied sparingly, but evenly, without gaps, not forgetting its ability to expand greatly. You need to carefully fill with foam where the side parts of the window sill enter the wall; keep in mind - this is an important element of thermal insulation.

It is not recommended to install stone window sills on foam, as there are known cases where, when it expanded, a marble product was broken along the veins. It is better to install them using special glue, for example, SM117, SM115 and the like. For window sills made of onyx and light marble it is better to use white glue, which will not leave marks if it accidentally hits the front surface.

Comb with tooth the right size, about 6-8 mm, the adhesive composition, preferably in one continuous movement, is evenly leveled over a pre-prepared base. The notched trowel should be held as vertically as possible - this is the only way the height of the ridges will be the same. Using an even spatula, stone window sill from the back side thin layer covered with glue and installed in the designed position.

If the window sill has a large overhang, then special corner brackets are used to secure it. They are fixed with one shoulder to the load-bearing wall at intervals of up to 500 mm, but not less than three pieces per product. Often this part of the bracket is recessed into the cladding and sealed with mortars. The window sill from below is screwed to the consoles using short cylindrical screws.

Once the foam or glue has completely dried, it is usually ready the next day, you can remove the spacers, install the end caps and begin sealing the joints.

How to protect a window sill from damage

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the correct storage of window sills on site. It is better to store products made of wood, PVC, chipboard in pairs, with their front surfaces facing each other, between which soft pads should be inserted. Stone window sills are stored in a vertical position; they should stand edge-on on two blocks, leaning against the wall at a slight angle.

Before installing any window sill, it must be covered with sheet polyethylene using masking tape, or with a special film that does not leave adhesive marks. Remember that there is still a lot of painting and installation work ahead, and this is a danger of contamination and mechanical deformation.

Attention! Factory protective film must be removed before installing the window sill in order to be able to check the quality and integrity of the front covering.

Window sills made of natural stone are able to absorb various substances with the formation of stains that are difficult to remove, so after installation they are immediately treated with protective compounds that close the pores of the front surface.

After installation, strips of plasterboard, gypsum fiber board or other similar materials, precisely cut along the visible contour of the window sill, should be laid on top of the film.

It is recommended to preserve marble products with a protective wooden shield, Special attention paying attention to the cornice of the product. The hanging end is the most vulnerable place; it is covered with a bar sewn to the front. The casing must be securely fastened in the opening and rest on the polished surface through soft pads.

You can't lose sight of there's another very important nuance, which directly affects the correct functioning and durability of the window sill - the distance between the bottom of the window sill and the heating radiator should not be less than 100 mm.

Turishchev Anton, rmnt.ru