Which self-leveling floor to use on a wooden base. Guide to pouring concrete screed on a wooden floor

The main advantages of self-leveling floors include wear resistance, strength and safety. Polyurethane coatings not only have good performance characteristics. The mixtures produced today have a large number of various color solutions. Floors with a three-dimensional effect look especially beautiful. The only thing that confuses apartment and house owners is preparing the foundation. After all, take off the old ones wooden floors and prepare smooth screed– the process is quite labor-intensive. Not everyone knows that there is no need to rip wooden boards. You just need to choose the right self-leveling floor for a wooden floor.

When choosing a mixture, you should pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations. If among the recommended grounds it is mentioned wood covering, this composition can be safely used for filling. Many manufacturers produce self-leveling mixtures for wooden floors, so choosing a suitable leveler is not difficult.

Requirements for a wooden base


It is worth noting that not every wooden floor is suitable as a base for a self-leveling mixture. A wooden floor must meet the following requirements:

  • the coating does not creak;
  • all boards must be securely fastened and should not bend when walking;
  • the wooden floor does not have significant level differences;
  • there are no gross defects on the surface of the boards;
  • boards in good condition, they have no damage caused by fungus or rotten areas.

If the floor meets these requirements, you can proceed to the next stage - preparing the base.

Important: If any of the listed defects exist, you will need to inspect the wooden covering, check the condition of the old joists, and, if necessary, install additional ones. It may be necessary to replace some boards that have become unusable.

Preparing the base


Self-leveling floor wooden base poured only after careful preparation. The service life of the boards largely depends on how well the surface of the boards is leveled. self-leveling coating.

  1. First of all, the surface of the boards is sanded. The top layer with varnish, paint and dirt is removed. After sanding, the boards are treated with emery to give a rough structure.
  2. Next, remove all the baseboards around the perimeter of the room, and cover the resulting cracks with bars. All seams at the junctions of the boards are passed with a scraper, all cracks and chips are cleaned. Dust and small debris are removed using a vacuum cleaner. Before pouring the self-leveling floor onto the boards, they should also be degreased. To do this, you can use a special cleaning powder.
  3. The next stage of preparing the base is installing beacons and laying tape around the perimeter of the room. The tape will serve as a damper pad, and the beacons will help to pour the self-leveling floor onto the wooden floor without any drops. They are set using a water level, and the installation height depends on the layer of self-leveling coating. As a rule, the thickness of the mixture layer ranges from 1 mm to 5 mm.
  4. Before pouring, the humidity level in the room and the air temperature must be checked. Compliance with the requirements indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging is one of important conditions successful completion of the work.

Floor pouring technology


Pour a self-leveling floor for wooden floors almost the same as mixtures for concrete foundations.

  1. First you need to properly prepare the mixture. The amount of water required for mixing the composition is indicated on the packaging.

Important! The proportions recommended by the manufacturer should be strictly observed. If there is an excess amount of liquid, self-leveling mixtures for wooden floors will harden much longer, and their resistance to external influences will be less than expected.

If there is not enough water, the mixture will harden in a shorter period of time, and you may not have time to distribute it.

  1. Be sure to pay attention to the drying time of the composition. If you do not have experience pouring self-leveling floors, it is better to mix the solution in small portions so that you can have time to level it over the floor surface. To speed up the process of distributing the mixture, you can invite an assistant and divide the work between you.
  2. It is recommended to start pouring from the most low level. Level the self-leveling floor on the wood using a soft spatula or a roller with needles. When choosing a roller, it is important to consider the thickness of the future coating. The length of the needles should be 2 mm longer. If the needles are short, the roller will plunge deeper into the solution than necessary and create unnecessary fluid movement. Long spikes will not allow the roller to quickly distribute the mixture. To move over a surface already filled with the compound, use special pads for shoes with spikes.
  3. After the self-leveling leveler is completed, the beacons are removed and the surface is left until it hardens completely. Manufacturers indicate the minimum time required for the mixture to harden. If you plan to carry out further work on the filled surface, professionals recommend waiting a week.

Self-leveling wood floor leveler can be poured onto both wood planks and plywood. Polymer self-leveling floors do not contain moisture that can cause deformation of the base, but before pouring cement mortars must be approached with special care. Depending on the moisture resistance of the plywood sheets, additional waterproofing may be required. In general, self-leveling flooring is poured onto plywood in the same way as onto wood. Some experts recommend using reinforcing mesh when applying self-leveling mortar.

You can get more detailed answers to the questions: is it possible to lay a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor and how to do it correctly after watching the next video.

At first glance, the situation is quite difficult when a relatively fragile leveling layer needs to be poured onto such an unstable base. However, there are many proven technologies that will allow you to do the installation even with your own hands.

Do you need to repair wooden floors in your apartment and want to use self-leveling flooring? The option is not the simplest, but there are proven technologies that are easy to do even with your own hands.

Attention! !

How difficult is installation?

If a concrete screed is used as a rough foundation, we can complete the work without problems, this foundation is very strong and stable. For a successful result, it is necessary to prime and set the beacons. More than s difficult case when there is a wooden floor in the apartment.

The boards do not form a single plane, when poor quality installation hanging out. With fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometric dimensions change, and individual boards with different sizes, especially relevant with heated floors. When drying, cracks appear; they will have to be sealed, then the leveling solution will not flow into them. During operation, squeaks will appear; without dismantling and repeated work, it will not get rid of it.

Wooden floors are prone to rot. When installing a self-leveling floor, you will need to provide conditions to prevent friction and destruction of wooden elements. You can’t overdry it either - the wood loses its strength and cracks.

We will do it ourselves, we will try to make do with the most accessible tools.

List of tools:

  1. Screwdriver;
  2. Drill with mixer attachment;
  3. Level;
  4. Electric planer;
  5. Roulette;
  6. Scissors.
  7. Spatulas wide
  8. Narrow spatula
  9. Containers for clean water
  10. Solution container
  11. Needle roller

Preparatory work

We strengthen and level the old wooden floor.

What defects do wooden floors have in an apartment?

  • Boards of different thicknesses
  • Boards driven by “screw”
  • Dried out or laid with a large gap wooden elements designs;
  • Presence of creaking
  • Rotten floorboards, beams
  • Old peeling paint
  • Deviation from level

We examine the wooden floor. Is there at least one defect? Let's start fixing it. Defects occur in most cases, the only exception being new wooden floors laid according to all the rules.

Checking the level of the wooden flooring. If the plane does not correspond to the level, you will have to completely open the floors and level or even change the logs. It would be a good idea to open a small part, even if the level is within normal limits, to check the integrity of the joists, but this applies more to old structures.

Suppose we discovered a slope. Then it is easier to disassemble completely wooden floors and install a new one. We begin installation with the outermost joists located at opposite ends of the room. We install them exactly according to the level, and then stretch the cord between them. We install intermediate logs along the cord. We process those that are above the cord with a plane, and under those that are lower we place pieces of plywood or other suitable material. Is there high humidity in the apartment? It is necessary to treat the material with antiseptic agents.

When the logs are laid in one plane and secured, we begin to check the thickness of the boards. It happens that the gaps between the floorboards are 5 mm or more, then it is necessary to correct the situation, despite the fact that we pour a leveling mixture on top. It’s the same here, we remove it from thick floorboards required thickness with an electric planer, and for thin ones we use pads.

A more complex defect is in the form of boards that are twisted with a “screw”. Wedges and a plane will not help. The floorboard “screws” onto the beams with only one edge; if you cut off the protruding edge, the second edge dangles in the air, and this is not reliable. There are two options here - change the entire floorboard or try to straighten it by pulling it. It is not possible to tighten with ordinary self-tapping screws; the slots are torn off or the bit is damaged, and the force is not enough.

In this case, a long screw (at least 100mm) with a hex head can help. To tighten with such a screw, we will make a hole in the board, in the place where it protrudes upward, do not drill closer than 2 centimeters from the edge. The hole needs to be slightly larger than the thickness of the screw. We tighten the screw until the edge of the floorboard is level with the plane of the adjacent boards. Then we fix the attracted place with at least four wood screws, and remove the large screw.

Another common defect is large gaps. If we were preparing the floor for laying laminate, the gaps would not be so critical; a couple of layers of plywood would save the situation. But we need to wooden floor pour a liquid self-leveling floor solution into an apartment, and it will definitely leak into the cracks. You can remove large gaps with store-bought wood putties, but if you go to the store, choose acrylic ones for seams and filling cracks, there are also finishing ones, but they won’t suit us. You can make this putty yourself by mixing PVA glue with fine sawdust.

If the wooden floor in the apartment is painted and it begins to peel off, you will have to rip it off. During operation, it, together with the self-leveling floor layer, may come off. I won’t talk about rotten floorboards and creaking. We change necessary elements and strengthen it.

Preparing for pouring

We got a relatively smooth and strong surface. We treat with an antiseptic for interior work. We cover it with primer in two or more layers, since wood is highly absorbent. Before priming, we clean everything from dust and sawdust. Deep penetration primer.

A deformation damper will be required between the screed and the wall. O is needed to protect against temperature deformations, especially if a heated floor is planned. It won't break the walls, but it will crack the surface. As such a layer, either a special self-adhesive tape or strips cut from isolon are used. We attach them vertically along the entire perimeter of the room.

Fill

You may have already chosen, for example, gypsum, polyurethane or cement. But I would recommend using the special composition Vetonit 4310 from Weber. It is intended specifically for complex substrates, including those that are deformable, like a wooden floor, although its base is cement. It can be used as an independent base layer, thickness up to 60mm is allowed, and also as an intermediate layer between wood and another type of self-leveling mortar.

It's time to pour the self-leveling floor onto the wooden floor; you need to do this process together. One person mixes the mixture, and the other pours it out, leveling it with a wide spatula. At large areas, you first need to make beacons from screwed-in screws or spider beacons. After leveling, you need to remove air from the layer; a needle roller is used for this purpose. You need to have time to do everything in no longer than 20 minutes, then it will start to set.

The finishing coating is laid in 1-3 weeks. To speed up drying, drafts should not be created in the apartment; this will lead to uneven drying and the appearance of shrinkage cracks. To check final drying, you need a vapor-proof film measuring one meter by meter. Place the film on the screed; the formation of condensation under the film means that the drying process has not completed.

Heated if needed

Nowadays, heated floors have become popular in private houses and apartments. Heating systems are divided into water and electric. In the case of wood, it is better to choose an electric one; you can also do a water one, but you need to be sure that the ceilings will withstand the high load. For the water version, you usually need a screed with a thickness of at least 50mm, and this is already a lot of weight. The pipe has a height of 16mm, a 30mm solution is poured above the pipe for uniform heat distribution.

In this case, the national team is more suitable lightweight system With aluminum plates or a multilayer underfloor heating system made of GVL sheets(plasterboard), you can read more about this technology here. But this is a slightly different topic.

This means it’s still better to use the electric option. The technology is not much different from laying it on a concrete screed. You already know how to make a base layer on a wooden floor; then roll foil insulation, which has reflective properties, is laid on it. After that, we install the reinforcing mesh, and then roll it out on top heating elements and fill them with a self-leveling leveler, DSP is also suitable, it is cheaper.

Nobody canceled the intervals for gaining strength; when installing a heated floor, we wait 3 weeks. The heating should be turned on no earlier than a week after installation. As a finishing coat tiles will do. Laminate flooring can be laid with a backing.

Video

Advantages of self-leveling coating

Self-leveling flooring is a technologically advanced way to renovate old apartments. Allows for short time get a flat surface. Eco-friendly, wear-resistant. Easy to make with your own hands. Plastic, resistant to cracks on complex wooden bases.

If the old wood flooring in your home has lost its appearance, has not rotted or broken, or you want to heat it, you may be interested in information on how to pour the floor over wood floors without dismantling them. So, the concrete screed will be poured from above onto the existing base, for which you initially need to coordinate the height of the future coating with doorways and communication lines (pipes, radiators, etc.). In most cases you have to shorten door leaves, filing them from below. Sometimes they resort to installing new doors, and all the highways are laid in a new way; here the owners of the home make the decision.

To install a high-quality screed on an existing wooden floor, choose mixtures that are suitable for such purposes, otherwise there is a risk of destruction of the screed if the old floor is rotten or sagged from age.

Bulk mixtures that are easily leveled and quickly harden are ideal here. For greater strength, such a screed should be strengthened by reinforcing it, and it is advisable to check the compressive strength 28-30 days after installation. Typically the height of the concrete layer is 10 mm.

Concrete as a screed: installation stages Anyone familiar with construction knows that any such process begins with preparatory work , and device flooring V wooden house

not an exception.

Preparing the base

Be sure to make sure that the old floor is not rotten and can withstand the load from the new screed The main task facing the craftsmen in this case is to ensure high strength

If you are dealing with a very worn-out previous foundation in a concrete house, you will need to remove the peeling layer by grinding or milling. The grease, adhesive base, and old bulk mixtures that have accumulated over the years of long-term operation of the floor structure must be removed, as well as unevenness whose differences exceed 10 mm must be leveled. For such purposes, special cement-based mixtures are used, or, more simply, concrete. Final leveling can only be done after the mass that has filled the recesses has completely hardened.

When pouring on old wooden flooring in a house, all rotten and broken boards are removed, and new ones are nailed to the joists in their place. You also need to ensure that each board is securely fixed and does not wobble, which can be eliminated using ordinary self-tapping screws. Under no circumstances should there be any creaking or bending of the floor when exposed to its surface. If there are holes in the flooring through which concrete will leak, they are sealed with wood putty, which consists of wood dust and plastic components. You can also prepare this putty yourself: mix sawdust with oil paint in a ratio of 4:1. Water-soluble putties are not suitable for such purposes.

Step by step, before the main process, the subfloor is prepared as follows:

  1. The baseboards are dismantled and planks are put in their place to cover the openings between the wall and the floor.
  2. The gaps between the installed planks and the base are puttied. After removing the boards between the wall and the covering, ventilation underground space will be restored.

Padding

The wooden flooring in the house needs to be sanded, and then using a vacuum cleaner to remove all debris and prime it. The primer will significantly improve adhesion between the concrete and the old coating and prevent the appearance of air bubbles.

Also, the soil will prevent the water contained in the solution from quickly being absorbed into the wood and will ensure that the mixture spreads evenly over the base. Dry flooring needs to be primed twice, and in the case of multi-layer leveling, each layer of fill is processed. Make sure that before applying the primer, the floor is not damp even to a slight extent, otherwise the result will not give the desired effect.

For weak wooden foundations in the house, it is best to purchase a fiberglass-based mesh, which will strengthen the leveling layer. It is attached directly to the base using staples and a special stapler. The staples will prevent the mesh from floating after pouring the solution. The reinforcement system must be installed in the middle or slightly below a third of the thickness of the screed. When hammering in the staples, control the strength of their fixation to the flooring.

Mixing concrete

The preparation of the solution takes Special attention, because the final result depends on its quality. Basically, for such purposes, dry formulations are purchased in 25 kg bags. This amount of dry matter takes approximately 6.5 liters of water; if the required consistency is not obtained, you can gradually add another 0.5 liter of liquid. Do not overdo it, as it is difficult to pour a liquid solution and it will not have any properties. necessary properties strength. The mixing process itself is best done using a drill with a special attachment until a homogeneous consistency is obtained. The prepared solution must be used within 15 minutes after mixing, otherwise it will harden and be unsuitable for use. Also don't forget to control temperature regime in a wooden house and in mortar. The optimal value is considered to be no lower than +10C. If you are carrying out work in a new, unheated building, it will help warm water, the temperature of which should not exceed +35C.

Pouring concrete

Now that the wooden base and mortar are ready, you can install self-leveling floors in the house. The screed is poured continuously until its surface is perfectly leveled. Spatulas with steel or serrated blades are used for this work. 4-5 hours after wood flooring will be covered with a mortar mass, you can carefully step on it. 6 hours after the completed process, grinding the surface is allowed, if necessary. It is usually carried out for future painting or application of liquid floors. Before sanding, remove the boards that are temporarily installed instead of baseboards; they have completed their mission and are no longer needed.


Processing expansion joints

In the places where they were expansion joints(doorways) using a grinder with a diamond wheel, cut out a layer of screed. Perform this process only after self-leveling surfaces frozen and you can walk on them. Next, each seam needs to be filled, which is intended exclusively for such purposes. It is highly elastic and hermetically fills the holes in the screed. When will you count? required amount material for self-leveling floors, proceed from the following parameters: for a layer thickness of 1 mm, 1.5 kg/sq.m. is consumed. mixtures.

After finishing work, be sure to clean the tool before the solution on it hardens, which will complicate such actions. To do this, rinse the spatulas and rules with water, and clean off the hardened mass with a coarse brush or spatula with a flat blade. Now you know that in a house with an old wood covering you can install a screed made of concrete mortar, and are also familiar with the technology of such work.

A visual example of pouring a floor is shown in the video:

Self-leveling floors, which are so popular today, have many advantages. Self-leveling flooring on a wooden base is not only strong and durable, but also safe and environmentally friendly, making it perfect for residential premises, including children's rooms and kitchens.

The first self-leveling floors were not particularly diverse. Now times have changed, and experts offer polyurethane coatings in numerous color solutions. Floors made using 3D technology are very popular; with their help you can create a stunning effect that will decorate the design of any room.

More often, self-leveling floors can be found in houses with concrete base. But wood flooring is also suitable for work similar type. Pouring a floor with a wood base is somewhat more complicated and has certain nuances.

Preparing for work

Laying the bulk mixture is a labor-intensive process. Much depends on how thoroughly the preparation for it is carried out. First of all, you need to determine whether it is possible to work with one or another wooden base. The self-leveling floor will last a long time and will be of truly high quality only when the wooden covering is of sufficient quality.

Preparation of the base consists of removing the baseboards and their fastenings from the walls. Next, the wooden floor is scraped using a special machine. IN small spaces You can get by with manual cycles.


Next comes the grinding machine, whose task will be to open cracks in the wooden covering. If they were not initially visible, then after processing they will definitely appear. All cracks and irregularities on the surface should be treated with putty and wait until it dries completely. After this, the base for the self-leveling floor is sanded using coarse sandpaper. In this case, it is better to give preference to wood combined with polyurethane.

The final stage of preparation is priming the surface. Before starting this procedure, it is necessary to degrease the base and thoroughly get rid of all debris and dust. It is better to apply the primer in two layers. For more reliable adhesion, it is worth adding quartz sand to the primer.

For the preparatory work, you will need a chisel, a nail puller, a scraper and grinder, coarse sandpaper, a primer roller, a spatula, and a mixer for mixing the polyurethane solution. In addition, it is worth stocking up on gloves, respirators, overalls, goggles and shoes with spikes for walking on freshly applied surfaces.


Floor pouring technology

According to the principle of operation, pouring polyurethane onto a wooden surface is no different from a similar process with a concrete base.

First of all, it is important to properly prepare the solution. This procedure must be carried out in accordance with the rules outlined in the manufacturer's instructions. Basically, this happens according to the same scheme: the dry mixture is filled with water, and then mixed until smooth with a construction mixer.

The finished mixture must be laid out on a wooden floor, starting from the very far corner rooms. The thickness of the finished coating is very important. In the case of wood, it should not be more than 5 mm. The polyurethane is leveled using a spatula and a needle roller. The latter is necessary in order to remove all air bubbles from the mixture. An even layer of polyurethane needs to be dried for about 15 minutes, and then covered with film so that dust does not settle on the hardening self-leveling floor.

The base coat must be completely dry and hardened. Only after this can you apply finishing layer. As a rule, this is a varnish or a polymer mixture.

Experts advise choosing self-leveling floors for residential premises, which are based on polymer resin. Where humidity is particularly high, for example in the bathroom, it is better to use epoxy coating.

Self-leveling floors can be very durable, but each individual case has its own preparation and installation features. For example, in a room with the possibility of sudden temperature changes, it is worth using mounting tape. It needs to be laid along the entire perimeter of the wall of the room. As a result, a damper gasket will be released that can protect the polyurethane surface if the wood begins to expand as the temperature increases.

In rooms with a wooden floor base, after completing the preparatory work, you need to check the air humidity and temperature in the room. The instructions for the polyurethane mixture should indicate the optimal values ​​for starting work.

Craftsmen recommend filling a surface area of ​​about 2 sq.m. at once. Then you need to quickly level it and continue working on other areas. Do not interrupt the process of pouring the polyurethane coating for more than 10 minutes, otherwise you may end up with an uneven surface. It is most convenient to fill the strips starting from the door furthest from the entrance.

The needle roller plays important role in filling the floor, as it makes the coating as uniform as possible. Experts recommend not saving on the finishing coat. Good varnish will give self-leveling floor beautiful glossy shine and will increase durability.

The self-leveling floor becomes hard within 10-12 hours. However, it is better to wait a few days before stepping on the surface. In some cases, the period of complete drying can last a week.

If you follow all the rules, you can achieve a stunning effect that will delight you for many years.

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Popularity of self-leveling floors in modern world everything is growing and gaining momentum. Today, many people are interested in the question: is it possible to install a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor? This is what we will discuss in this material. Today, self-leveling floors meet the following indicators:

Durability;
strength;
moisture resistance;
environmental materials and safety;
not exposed to fire and negative temperatures.

Having an impeccable appearance, self-leveling floors attract the attention of buyers. Absolutely any covering can be laid on top of such a floor. The self-leveling coating is not afraid of falling heavy objects, temperature changes, or aggressive chemicals. Latest methods decoration and design are constantly changing and expanding, an increasing number of colors, three-dimensional images are appearing, various inclusions and inlays are being added.
Today, the quality of self-leveling floors has changed compared to its predecessors. As an example, a 3D self-leveling floor can be presented, which is a decorative element with an exceptional design and three-dimensional images.

If the self-leveling mortar is laid on concrete covering today does not raise any questions, then pouring a self-leveling floor onto a wooden floor immediately implies difficulties during installation. Since not everyone likes to dismantle a wooden floor, and if it was initially completely like that in the house, doubts immediately arise regarding the installation of the self-leveling coating. However, if certain conditions are met, it is possible to lay a self-leveling floor on a wooden base. The main criterion for the work is the condition of the coating, which must still meet good standards of use, and the mixture must be made thinly so as not to greatly affect the change in ceiling height.

Preparing a wooden base for pouring

Since pouring a self-leveling floor requires a perfectly flat surface, the wooden base must be carefully prepared for this process. The wooden floor must be in good working order, not rotten, there should be no loose boards, everything is fastened firmly and securely.

At the initial stage, it is necessary to remove all baseboards from the room. Then carefully sand the floor with a scraper to remove the varnished or painted layer of the boards. After this you need to wipe grinder all the cracks that are almost always present on an old floor. Using putty, you need to cover and putty all the cracks and unevenness of the floor. And you need to wait until it dries completely. For the best adhesion of the mixture to the coating, it is necessary to sand the floor again using coarse sandpaper.

After cleaning the base, it must be freed from dust and degreased. The next step work is priming the floor, which guarantees good adhesion of the polyurethane solution to the wood. The main rule is that you need to do this at least twice. Sifted particles quartz sand, which are included in the primer, create roughness in the wood, while increasing the degree of adhesion, including multidirectionality.

The main working tools for preparing wood and pouring a self-leveling floor are presented in the following list:

Nail puller, wooden wedges, and also a chisel;
machine or hand scraper;
Sander;
coarse-grained sandpaper or emery;
industrial or domestic vacuum cleaner;
roller or brush for applying primer;
a flat brush or short-haired paint roller for even application of the polymer mixture;
a needle roller to remove air when applying the solution;
squeegee or metal spatula;
construction mixer or drill with an attachment designed for polymer floors.

You will also need to use special clothing, glasses and, of course, spiked shoes, which are designed for walking on a flooded floor.

Self-leveling coating installation technology

What’s most interesting is that the technology for pouring self-leveling mortar onto a wooden surface is basically no different from applying it to a concrete base. The main differences are presented only in preparing the basis for these actions.

However, before you start pouring the floor in the house, you need to lay a mounting tape around the entire perimeter of the room. You will also need to install special beacons that help maintain a certain floor level.
You should buy a high-quality flooring mixture from a trusted supplier. Before use, you must carefully study the instructions for preparing the mixture, which are always on the product packaging. In order for everything to work out correctly, you must follow all its points very strictly.

Usually they take the dry mixture and pour it into a container where it needs to be kneaded. Best suited for this process a large bucket from under water-based paint. Having poured the required amount of water, which is reflected in the instructions, you can begin mixing the solution with a mixer or drill with a special attachment. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, only then can it be laid out on the treated wooden floor. The main condition is that the mixture must be laid out starting from the farthest side of the room. towards the doors.

You need to level the mass to a thickness of 5 mm, and a spatula will help with this. This size is most optimal for rooms with wooden floors. To prevent air from collecting and to keep the surface smooth and even, go over the solution with a rubber needle roller. If necessary, you can move around the room only in spiked shoes. If necessary, level the mixture hard to reach places, a spatula is best. Since the coating is self-leveling, leveling basically occurs on its own, just as water spills over the floor.

Since the mixture solution hardens very quickly, batches must be prepared very quickly. The time interval between batches should be no more than 10 minutes. The optimal solution There will be two people making the floor, which allows one to pour the floor, and the other to prepare the next batch of mortar. But if this is not possible, then you need to pay special attention to the joints of the fill between batches; they must be carefully processed with a roller.

After completing work in the room, you must wait 15 minutes and then cover the floor with film. This is necessary to ensure that the surface remains glossy, free of dust and debris. After the floor has completely dried, when you can walk on it without fear, the final type of coating is applied. There is already enough imagination here. The floor can be a 3D polymer, varnish or other more standard coating options. If you want a colored floor, then you can use colored dyes in its top layer. Upper layer will give the finished coating a glossy shine, and also improve strength and other characteristics. Experts do not recommend performing other work on outdoor floor within a week after its installation.

All work costs associated with coverage are individual for each person. Most often they depend on the quality of the mixture, its manufacturer, format decorative covering. For example, 3D floors with an individual exclusive design will cost much more than regular ones. Professionals charge a lot of money for their services. However, you can save money. The technology for installing a self-leveling floor on a wooden base is not complicated, and everyone can independently add a “zest” to their home, decorating it depending on their tastes and preferences.

Experts recommend using only a solution based on polymer resins in residential areas. If the floor was poured in a room with high humidity, then you need to apply epoxy type floor covering. In all other rooms it is better to use polyurethane flooring.