Sewer riser made of plastic pipes. Principles of installation of sewerage from plastic pipes

In the process of repairing the sewer, it becomes necessary to remove some of the elements of the spillway system. To do this, you need to disconnect the PVC pipes without damaging the product. This material is quite fragile, so the dismantling operation is carried out without the use of super-forces.

Definition of a defective area

The need to repair PVC pipes for external sewerage systems arises for a number of reasons:

smudges appeared on pipes or fittings;
there is an unpleasant smell in the room;
the liquid does not drain well;
a blockage has formed, which cannot be cleaned by known and accessible methods.

The places of malfunction of the indoor sewage discharge system are located in the outlet pipes from plumbing fixtures to the main riser. The last one may be damaged. Outdoors, in private housing construction, this is an underground highway from the building to the storage device (cesspool, septic tank). For the arrangement of the external drain, PVC sewer pipes (red) are used.

Dismantling of internal sewerage

Outlet pipes from plumbing fixtures have a diameter of 32, 40 or 50 mm. Sewer pipe connections are the junction of one end of the product into the socket of the other. O-rings and sanitary grease are used for sealing.

The following types of sewer products are used indoors:

polypropylene parts;
PVC products (gray);
polyethylene material.

Dismantling begins with the undocking of elements of household appliances - a corrugated hose, cuffs. Separating the sewer parts is quite simple. It is necessary to give the detachable part a rotational-translational movement. That is, turning a few degrees in both directions, pull in the opposite direction from the main structure.

It is not required to make sudden movements - with a certain effort, the dismantled part will smoothly move from its place. Thus, the entire internal structure is disassembled. It is necessary not to forget about the removal of fasteners - clamps.

The situation is more complicated with the separation of the main riser, assembled from polymer parts. If compensators were installed in the project and in fact, then dismantling will not create any special problems. But, it should be remembered that the riser is a common house property. Therefore, all actions with it are performed with the permission of the management company (ZhEK, ZHEU, ZhREU, etc.). Otherwise, for the consequences that have arisen, the culprit is responsible - the owner of the premises, who started unauthorized repairs.

Dismantling the riser

The following rules must be observed when disconnecting a vertical sewer pipe:

management services are notified, permission is issued for repair work;
riser users living upstairs are notified;
repair operations are underway.

The presence of a compensator allows you to shift the product in one direction or another up to 10 cm. It must be remembered that the vertical structure has a certain mass. Therefore, it needs to be fixed.

The joints are treated with machine oil. By performing rotational-translational movements, the part is removed from the overall structure. The absence of a compensator forces one to resort to radical methods - to cut the fan pipe.

PVC plastic sewer pipes are processed by most locksmith tools:

a hacksaw with a small hardened tooth;
hacksaw for metal;
file;
sharp and durable knife and other tools.

Mechanized device - grinder, reciprocating saw.

When carrying out work, it is required to pay attention to the presence of a number of other communication elements:

penstock;
electrical system cable;
storm drain.

Sewer pipe connections that have served for 10 years or more can “stick”, “grow” to each other. A number of recommendations can help in such cases;

treatment of the junction with WD-40 lubricant;
wrap sandpaper around the pipe; make rotational movements through it - the hands will not slip, the circular force will increase;
if the product is scrapped, then it is necessary to make a through hole across the part; inserting a tube or a metal rod, we get a lever;
apply the "barbaric" method of dismantling - cut the pipe into pieces, break it into pieces.

The methods for separating the PVC pipe parts used for the outdoor piping are exactly the same. But, it is necessary to determine the location of the damage and carry out earthworks.

How and what methods of undocking pipes - to choose the owner of the housing or invited experts. The main thing is to determine the feasibility of one or another method of dismantling faulty parts.

In this article I will talk about how and for what reasons sewer line replacement: I will help you understand the choice of material for a new sewer riser and consider how to correctly dismantle the old and install a new plastic sewer riser.

A new sewer riser made of PVC pipes, you see, it looks much better)

The planned replacement of the sewer riser, by and large, should be carried out by the ZhEK or HOA, and free of charge, because they are responsible for the riser. But as you know, in the first place, not one ZhEK does not replace it as planned, but as practice shows, it drags out the work to the last, and the next replacement of the riser can be done in a few decades. Secondly, the material with which such municipal work is carried out leaves much to be desired. At first glance, it may seem that there is nothing complicated in replacing the sewer riser, the main thing is to warn the neighbors in the riser, as when replacing water supply risers.

However, when replacing a sewer riser, everything is quite difficult. It is necessary to warn all neighbors who live above you in the riser in advance so that they do not use the sewer during the work being done. Although it often happens that especially the elderly forget about the request and flush the waste into the sewer, as a result of which this waste, when the riser is dismantled, is dumped directly into the apartment, which is extremely unpleasant.

The sewer riser must be replaced if the old riser has cracked and become unusable, or if it is necessary to replace or lower the fan tee.

The choice of material for the sewer riser:

For sewer risers and apartment wiring, polypropylene is the optimal material. For the installation of sunbeds that run in the basement, or outdoor risers, PVC pipes are most often used, but cast-iron sewer pipes have long been considered not relevant for use in residential buildings.

What are the signs that the riser needs to be replaced:

If cracks or fistulas have formed in the sewer riser, or you need to lower the fan tee lower, then in this case, the replacement of the sewer riser is inevitable.

The design of the sewer riser in residential buildings includes fan tees, which serve to connect the apartment wiring to the riser, they are the lowest point in the apartment sewer system, therefore, during installation, this tee must be lowered as low as possible for better sewer drainage.

How is the replacement of the sewer riser:

If there are no cracks and obvious leaks in the cast-iron riser, then there is no need to replace it, but otherwise, if the riser is rotten and burst, its replacement is necessary.

Necessary parts and material for carrying out the robot:

Rubber cuff-adapter from cast iron to plastic pipe;
Polypropylene tee 110/110/110 mm or cross 110/110/110/50;
1 or 2 polypropylene pipes 110 mm. pre-measured length;
Plastic compensator 110 mm;
An adapter with a rubber cuff for attaching polypropylene to the upper cast-iron pipe;
Clamps for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm;
2-4 corners 45° with a diameter of 110 mm;
Tee with revision

Tools used to replace the riser:

Dismantling the old riser:

Replacement begins with the dismantling of the old riser, as it happens:

Above the fan riser, stepping back about a meter, cut the tuba with a grinder, but not completely;
Also, a cut is not completely made under the ceiling, retreating 10 centimeters;
A chisel is inserted into the slot that has been cut, and by striking lightly with a hammer, the uncut piece of pipe bursts.
The same is done with the upper file, after the pipes burst and at the top it can be safely removed.

Important: the pipe should burst exactly in the direction of the cut, because if you fail to open and remove this piece of pipe, you will have to leave it, and a plastic pipe will be attached to it using a special adapter.

Now we need to cut the fan tee out of the downpipe, which is pretty tricky:

The tee can be pulled out by reeling, after carefully opening the connection with the pipe;
If the tee does not give in, it is cut with a grinder without touching the down pipe.

Important: when dismantling the tee, in no case damage the down pipe coupling.

After dismantling the fan tee, thoroughly clean the socket from seal residues.

Installation of a new riser:

Installing a new sewer riser is as follows:

A special rubber cuff is put on a cast-iron pipe coming out of the ceiling, after which this cuff is smeared with sealants and a plastic adapter is put on it.
Another cuff is installed in a pipe coming out of the floor.
Then the required length of the new pipe is measured:
The plastic pipe is inserted into the adapter put on the upper cast-iron pipe;
The pipe is cut about 5 cm above the pipe with the compensator;
All parts are connected together.
The plastic riser is fixed to the adjacent wall with clamps, for rigidity and in order to prevent it from moving down.
All connections are pre-lubricated with sealant

Connecting a washing machine to the sewer, in our time, is a fairly simple and inexpensive matter. Any more or less home craftsman can handle connecting the machine to the water seal under the sink, but it happens that the drain must be connected to the riser.
The easiest way to do this is on the top floor of an apartment building, since in this case, there is no need to negotiate with the residents of the house. Otherwise, you will have to go around all the residents living above and ask them not to use the sewer for the duration of the work.
Let's analyze the drain tie-in in more detail using an example.
As a rule, the riser has a diameter of 110 mm. In the example below, the pipe diameter is 50 mm, it is in two parts and is located on the top floor. Therefore, when you make your tie-in, you should take into account the design features of your particular riser. This applies to the diameter and possibly additional details not described in the example.

For tapping, you will need the following tools and parts: a hacksaw, a clerical knife, a tee with a branch diameter of 50 mm and an angle of 45 degrees, an expansion pipe and a cuff for inserting the drain hose of the washing machine.

First, preparatory work is carried out. A rubber sealing ring is removed from the branch of the tee and a cuff is inserted instead.

Next, a tee and an expansion pipe are assembled together.

The assembled parts are applied to the insertion point, so that the lower edge of the tee lies at the level of the beginning of the expansion of the pipe. The length of the cut section is marked on the riser. On the compensation pipe, in this case, there are marks by which you can easily measure the cut section of the riser (by the upper mark on the compensation pipe).

After the preparatory work, you need to agree with the residents living above you so that they do not use the sewer for the duration of the work.
Direct work on the tie-in drain should be carried out as quickly as possible, because you are not immune from the fact that one of the residents living above will forget about the agreement with you and drain the water into the sewer.
Next, cut off the marked section of the riser.

Remove chips and chamfer the outside of the pipe with a utility knife.

Insert the tee into the downpipe of the riser. Insert the top of the riser into the tee. Install the expansion joint, bringing all the pipes together. The pipes must be inserted into each other all the way down, so that over time they do not move down under their own weight or as a result of mechanical impact.
TIP: Moisten the ends of the pipes with water - this will make it easier to assemble the pipes together.
Reading 6 min.
Installation of sewerage from plastic pipes is carried out in private and apartment buildings, office buildings equipped with water supply. Drainage systems are divided into local and centralized. In one room, the wiring consists of blocks, each of which consists of 3 lines - from the toilet, bath and kitchen sink. When arranging the highway, parts of various lengths, diameters and configurations are used. Consider what nuances should be considered when designing and assembling a pipeline with your own hands.
Principles of installation of sewerage from plastic pipes
The choice of materials for sewerage
When planning the laying of new communications for draining sewage, it is necessary to pay special attention to the choice of high-quality material, fixtures and components. It is recommended to purchase goods from a trusted supplier who has a certificate for their products. It is better to buy products from the same manufacturer. This will avoid difficulties in fitting and connecting parts.
The basis for the calculations is a diagram that displays the following data:
riser;
revision hatch;
tee;
horizontal runs;
corners;
water seals (siphons);
adapter;
bends;
water consumers.

It is desirable to purchase the material by 10-15% more than the calculated one. In any work, marriage and mistakes are possible. In addition to plastic products, you need to buy a silicone-based lubricant. It is best suited for connecting line fragments and ensuring its tightness.
Why are plastic pipes better?
When choosing a material for arranging a sewer, most craftsmen tend to use polymer plastic pipes. Such a decision is justified by many positive characteristics inherent in this product of the petrochemical industry.
The arrangement of PVC pipelines has the following advantages:
Affordable cost. It is an order of magnitude lower than that of metal structures.
A light weight. Plastic pipelines do not exert additional load on walls and floor slabs.
Easy assembly. It is not necessary to use expensive equipment to connect parts.
Resistant to corrosion, fungus and mold.
Long service life. It is at least 50 years old.
Presentable appearance. Products fit well into any interior.
Elasticity. Pipelines do not break under vertical and horizontal loads.

Polymer communications do not need regular maintenance and repair.
Preparatory work
To lay a pipeline for draining wastewater, you will need special equipment for laying a channel of the desired configuration in floors, walls and furniture.
It is necessary to use the following tools and devices:
oil or diamond level;
perforator with a set of drills, impact nozzles and a diamond crown;
roulette;
a hammer;
chisel
marker;
Silicone Grease.

Preparation for the installation of sewerage begins with the drawing of a horizontal line from the entrance of the tee to the riser to all water consumers. After that, every 50 cm marks are made corresponding to the required slope. In order not to be mistaken, during assembly, supports are placed on which pipes will be laid. Holes are drilled in the walls, into which clamps with the corresponding pipe diameter are installed. At the end, drilling of holes, clearing the bed and removing construction debris is carried out.
Features of internal wiring
Features of the arrangement of sewage are that the basis for the functioning of home sewage is gravity. Waste products move through the channels by gravity under the influence of gravity. In order for the drains from the water consumer to enter the riser, all lines must have a slope of 1-1.5%. So, with a line length of 200 cm, the height difference between the outlet and the pipe exit to the common drain should be 2-3 cm. Another 1 cm is added for each turn. If you do not follow these rules, the line will be constantly clogged with waste.
The next nuance is the selection of the correct section size and line configuration.
You should choose plastic sewer pipes of this diameter:
riser, tee, outlet and corrugation from the toilet - at least 100 mm;
line from the bath, washbasin and kitchen sink - 50 mm;
drain from the washing machine and dishwasher - 32 mm.

Since the largest waste products come from the toilet, the distance from it to the riser should be minimal. If it is necessary to change the direction of the pipes for laying pipes, then it is better to do this with the help of bends at 45 °, as sharp turns can be clogged.
Fitting workpieces to size
A feature of products made of polymeric material is the change in their dimensions under the influence of temperature. Thus, with its increase by 1°, the length of the link increases by 0.5%. This must be taken into account when making calculations so as not to install turns close to the walls. You should always leave 1-2 cm of margin for the damper expansion of the links. A slight curvature does not affect the strength and tightness.
When cutting blanks, it is necessary to check that the diameter of the pipe corresponds to this indicator of the fittings used in laying communications. Technical indicators are printed on the products themselves, but it is better to check them in advance, even before the start of assembly. It should be remembered that the tightness of the connection and tightness are achieved through the use of gaskets. The difference between the inner and outer diameters of the connected links is 2 mm. A slight backlash allows you to compensate for minor errors made during design, marking and assembly.
bell joint
Consider the features of the connection of plastic pipes. They are performed using sockets, inside which rubber gaskets, rings and cuffs are installed. The best in terms of durability are double gaskets with a plastic ring. They are difficult to assemble, but the effort paid off by the reliability and durability of the joint. Before connecting the parts, you must make sure that the elastic is of the correct shape, tightly located in the groove of the bell and is not skewed. If the product is defective or was damaged during assembly, then it should be replaced with a serviceable part.
Attachment points are the weakest points of the pipeline. Over time, the lining material shrinks and decreases in volume. To slow down this process, it is necessary to use a high-quality lubricant with a preservative effect. Soap and car oils are not suitable for this. These substances corrode rubber. Professionals recommend using silicone grease.
The edges of the sawn pipe must be cleaned to get a chamfer. After the segment is inserted into the socket, it must be moved forward to the stop and fed back by 10-15 mm.
How to make an installation?
In a private house, you can make several risers, connecting them into one line or leading them to different septic tanks with separate highways. The main condition is compliance with the rules of environmental safety.
When installing sewer pipes with your own hands, it is recommended to follow these rules:
use a hacksaw for cutting blanks;
insert pipes into sockets without distortions perpendicular to their cuts;
assemble the wastewater system in the direction from the tee to the sources of water consumption;
control the level of each stage of the assembly;
do not fill the highway with concrete, it is better to close it with plastic, which is easy to remove;
do not forget to lubricate the joints and leave a damper gap.

Subject to the rules for carrying out calculations, marking and assembly, the sewer system will last no less than the building itself.