Do-it-yourself electrical wiring installation: how to competently perform electrical installation work. Installation of wiring in a house - example diagrams, power selection, prices for work How to conduct wiring from the meter

More than ever before, people today need electricity, which is needed for almost everything - from charging the phone to heating water. To ensure that your usual lifestyle is not disrupted, it is necessary high-quality installation wiring in the house. To implement it, the experience and practical rules accumulated by specialists will be useful.

Electricity is a source of comfort Source pic2.me

Safety Basics - Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Ignorance or inattention to details can lead to installation errors. With further operation, such wiring in the house will cause problems, damage to property, and sometimes a fire. Exist simple rules, allowing the master to act not at random, but according to safety rules:

• In a new building, before laying the wiring, a location for the distribution board is selected. It is installed close to the entrance, in a frost-free room. When drawing up a switchboard diagram, it is wise to immediately think about the RCD (residual current device), ground loop and other protective devices.

Wall-mounted switchboard Source is.insterne.com

• All work on replacing electrical wiring (in an old home) must be carried out with the power supply turned off at the electrical panel. It is required to leave a warning sign on it to avoid an unpleasant surprise.
• Wiring in the house is preceded by drawing up a detailed network plan and connecting electrical appliances.
• Even if all circuit breakers are turned off, before starting work, check the presence or absence of voltage on the contacts or conductive surfaces with an indicator screwdriver.

A warning sign must be hung on the introductory machine Source jamesgoodmandance.com

The most common mistakes:

• Usage aluminum wires. According to the requirements of the PUE (rules for installing electrical equipment), in residential buildings It is allowed to use aluminum wires with a cross-section of at least 16 mm². Wires of this diameter are typically only used in cables that carry current to, but not inside, the home. When replacing wiring, a combination of copper and aluminum parts is unacceptable - at the point of their connection, the contact will burn out over time due to transition resistance.

• Insufficient waterproofing. For long and safe operation of the system, it is necessary to ensure careful insulation of all wires in rooms with high humidity. Poor insulation most often shows up in the bathroom, pantry, kitchen or terrace.
• Stroba. The optimal depth is 2-2.5 cm. Grooves with a shallower depth are difficult to plaster.

Chasing a wall for wiring Source legkovmeste.ru

• Working with cable. Diagonal laying is prohibited; The wire cross-section must be calculated in accordance with the system parameters.
• Distribution boxes. To avoid confusion and ease of maintenance, they are placed under the ceiling.

An example of drawing up an electrical wiring diagram in a private house

The future electrical wiring diagram is drawn up based on the plan of a private house. It consists of two parts, electrical and installation. The main elements are outlined schematically, “for yourself.”

• Electrical diagram. The electrical wiring diagram in a private house shows how energy consumers are included in the circuit and their number.

Example electrical diagram postings to country house Source assz.ru

• Wiring diagram. Determines the installation locations of devices. This data will help you calculate the number of cables and additional consumables needed.

Installation version of the wiring diagram Source kabel-house.ru

The main elements of the network include wires, sockets, switches, meters, fuses and relays, distribution boxes, in addition:

• external power cable entry point;
• connection points for high power household appliances;
• ceiling and wall lighting fixtures.

The beginning of the electrical supply to a home is the electrical panel. A power wire is supplied to it from the outside (usually by overhead line), supplying single-phase or three-phase current.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer electrical work services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Video description

An example of drawing up a plan for the location of electrical equipment in the video:

To increase reliability, consumers are divided into groups on the switchboard (connection in groups of points):

• Lighting.
• Sockets.
• Power elements (boiler, electric stove, washing machine).
• Household groups (basement, garage).

It is allowed to divide consumers by rooms or floors. In this case, each group needs individual protection devices (automatic devices, RCDs).

Each room has a lighting and socket group; there are more of them in the kitchen (warm floors and an electric stove are connected as separate group). For powerful household appliances and lamp nodes of the circuit in the bathroom are provided with grounding (connection via a cable with an additional ground conductor).

Preparatory work for electrical wiring

To ensure that wiring in a country house does not cause problems during operation, preparatory work and calculations. These include calculation of the total power of devices planned for installation; Based on these numbers, the cable is selected.

Power of some household appliances Source bazliter.ru

Calculation of power consumption

The total power consumption consists of the individual powers of household appliances, lighting elements and power equipment. These values ​​are taken from special tables; they can be found in the technical data sheets of the devices.

To independently obtain the total power consumption of the devices, you need to sum up the powers of all consumers on this wire. It is known that all devices do not turn on at the same time. Therefore, the resulting amount is multiplied by the demand adjustment factor (simultaneous use factor). The coefficient is 0.8 (if the total power is less than or equal to 14 kW), 0.6 (up to 20 kW), 0.5 (up to 50 kW).

Example: if the resulting number is 32.8 kW, then the approximate value of power consumption is: 32.8 * 0.6 = 19.68 kW.

By dividing the total power by the voltage (220 V), you can find out the maximum current. For example, if the power turns out to be 5 kW (5000 W), the current is 22.7 A.

Video description

A clear example of calculations in the video:

Selection of cable cross-section by length and power

The cable cross-section is selected based on the previously determined maximum load current and conductor parameter (current density for this material). With a current of 22.7 A and a conductor density of 9 A/mm2 (copper), a conductor with a cross section (CSA) of 22.7/9 = 2.5 mm2 would be suitable.

Copper is considered the best material due to its properties: wear resistance, high thermal and electrical conductivity (even during oxidation), ductility. Copper wire lends itself well to twisting and can withstand a load twice as large as aluminum wire of the same cross-section.

Calculation of cross-section based on load (kitchen) Source reslando.ru

The optimal cross-section for the socket group is considered to be 2-2.5 mm2 for connecting lighting fixtures 1.3-1.5 mm2 will be sufficient; for powerful electrical appliances it is better to play it safe - at least 4 mm2.

The cable length is calculated by taking measurements of all straight sections with an allowance of 10-15 cm added on each side. The approximate cable length can be obtained by multiplying the area of ​​the premises by two.

Sequence of installation work

Installation work requires an integrated approach. They start after purchasing the cable. Additionally, electrical accessories are purchased: sockets, socket boxes, switches, cable ducts and distribution boxes.

All materials must be prepared in advance Source pinterest.co.uk

Installing a ground loop

Any a private house must be equipped with a grounding loop, which performs several tasks:

• Protects the inhabitants of the house when voltage appears on the device body.
• Supports the safe operation of devices operating in damp environments (washing and dishwashers, electric stove, boilers and instantaneous water heaters).
• Reduces the level of noise (interference) in the electrical network.

The circuit is installed in the ground next to the house; Inside, the grounding is connected to the electrical panel. It is required for:

• high power electrical engineering;
• light sources (circuit groups) in bathrooms.

Installation of distribution board Source justdial.com

Installation of distribution board elements

After the electrical connection diagram for a private home has been selected and consumers have been divided into groups, a distribution board is installed. It contains:

• circuit breaker and RCD – general;
• automatic machines and RCDs – for designated groups;
• counter;
• zero bus and main ground bus.

On a panel, the function of a core can be determined by the color of its insulation:

• white (sometimes red, black or brown) corresponds to phase;
• blue – zero;
• yellow-green – protective grounding.

The final distribution board for electrical wiring in a private house is assembled after the installation of the wiring is completed.

Applicable wire colors Source financloansinvest.ru

Installation of electrical wiring of closed and open type

Wiring in a new house is installed in two ways - open and closed, and the first option is often chosen when it is impossible to use the second.

• Open wiring. It is laid over the walls and, if desired, protected by cable ducts. It has its advantages - it is always available for inspection. At the same time, like any technical element in the interior, it “hurts the eye.” The exception is the design of premises in a loft or retro style, where such solutions are welcome.

At open installation The cable is fastened with staples to the surface, then it is covered with a box. Recesses for sockets and switches are made with a hammer drill or drill.

Box (cable channel) for open wiring Source wotsite.ru

• Hidden wiring. At hidden installation you have to groove the walls (punch through channels), lay wires and hide them behind the wall trim. This method is more reliable and durable, but at the same time labor-intensive and costly for future alterations. To avoid touching cables in the future when drilling into walls, it is worth stocking up on a network layout plan.

Electrical wiring in the house is done according to the same rule: installation is carried out strictly horizontally or vertically, any other path is not allowed. Bends are made at right angles.

Before installation, walls, horizontal and vertical sections are marked in accordance with the diagram. This can be done using a laser level or a plumb line greased with chalk or charcoal. You can take pictures of walls with markings applied. This reminder will help you avoid touching the wiring with a drill or nail in the future.

You need to sketch out the layout of the wires inside the walls Source pinterest.com

During hidden installation, grooves (grooves in the surface of the wall) are punched with a chisel or grinder or a special wall cutter. The wires are laid in grooves, they are secured and masked with plaster or alabaster. Sometimes hidden wiring is carried out not in a groove, but under the baseboard, which preserves access and the possibility of inspection.

Wiring in a wooden house

The organization of wiring in such a home has its own characteristics. Internal wiring with wires buried in the walls increases the likelihood of fire for wooden structures. Therefore, the safest option is the open option.

Electrical wiring in a wooden house Source bauenhaus.ua

It is preferable to use a flat cable; To prevent sagging, it is fixed with fasteners made of tin or plastic.

When the network is assembled and all elements are connected, serviceability is checked.

Video description

About errors in installing wiring in a wooden house, watch the video:

Completion time and approximate cost of some work

Turnkey electrical installation in a cottage is completed on average in 4-6 days. Complex installation will cost 18-60 thousand rubles, replacement of wiring - 15-36 thousand rubles.

Electricians will carry out wiring on the floor of a private house for 9-12 thousand rubles.

A comprehensive replacement of wiring in a wooden house will cost 18-29 thousand rubles.

Laying a cable with a cross-section of up to 4 mm in a groove - 25-30 rubles. for m/p.

Laying a cable with a cross-section of more than 4 mm in a groove - 42-55 rubles. m/n.

Grilling plaster walls– 75-85 rub. for m/p, brick - 92-100 rubles. for m/p, concrete – 105-112 rubles. for m/p.

Assembling an electrical panel (meter + 3 machines) – 980-1100 rubles.

Connecting an electric meter with installation (220 volts) – 665-720 rubles.

Connecting an electric meter (380 volts) – 1050-1130 rubles.

Loft-style interior with exposed ceiling wiring Source behance.net

General rules for connecting to the electrical network

Following the installation of electrical wiring, automatic devices, RCDs and electrical appliances are installed. To commission the electrical equipment of a private house, a specialist from the energy supervision authority is invited, authorized to conduct acceptance tests.

After checking the safety of the electrical installation, a “Connection Certificate” is issued, allowing further use of the equipment. Based on this document, the energy supply organization enters into an agreement with the owner of the house and connects the home to the support.

Video description

The video shows how to connect electrical wiring:

Conclusion

Life modern man so dependent on electricity that even an hour without electricity seems endless to most. Things stop, the rhythm gets lost, plans remain unrealized. Defective installation can lead to more than just short-term system failures.

Electrical faults (caused by violation of the rules for the design and operation of electrical equipment and household electrical appliances), according to the Russian Ministry of Emergency Situations, caused 41,374 house fires in 2017. To protect your home and your loved ones, you should take care of many things in advance, but you should start with high-quality electrical wiring.

Knowing the basic principles of electrical work, you can do the electrical wiring in your home yourself and save a fair amount of money. The basis of all subsequent types construction work, after the construction of walls and roof, or before major repairs, There is correct installation electrical wiring. I will try to talk about the most basic principles of electrical installation.

Moreover, it is not difficult to do it yourself, but for this you need to have the necessary knowledge and equipment. Equipment can be bought, but about necessary knowledge, we will try to tell it popularly.

How to make electrical wiring?

1. Wiring diagram.

In most cases, the electrical wiring diagram is drawn up arbitrarily by the owner of the construction, in other words, out of the blue. And, as a rule, when the craftsmen who came to do this work are standing over his head.

The diagram looks like this: Using chalk or a piece of brick, draw the locations of sockets and switches on the walls. Switches are near the doors, and sockets are in the corners of the rooms. Are you familiar with this situation?

After completion of construction work, sockets are behind the furniture, and switches are behind open door, which, you see, is not very convenient.

The quality of the electrical wiring diagram can be judged by the number of electrical extension cords and tees used in housing after completion of construction work.

Therefore, the electrical wiring diagram, indicating the location of sockets, switches and junction boxes, must be prepared in advance. You also need to calculate the required load, wire cross-section, and divide consumers into groups.

There must be at least two groups of consumers, that is, two circuits. One is lighting and the other is sockets. It is better if each room in the house has such two circuits separately. In addition, each powerful electrical appliance - oven, electric stove or boiler must have a separate connection with its own automatic machine.

It is imperative to coordinate this scheme with the location of heating, water supply and gas pipes in the premises, the future arrangement of furniture and the location of stationary household electrical appliances. It is forbidden to place the socket closer than 50 cm from various pipes, radiators and sinks.

The socket can be located at the height from the floor that suits you best. In most cases, this is 30-40 cm from the floor. But be sure to take into account the thickness of the screed and the future floor covering.

If you are in doubt about whether to install an outlet here or not, do so. It’s better to have an extra outlet than not have one in the right place. After all, the arrangement of furniture in the apartment can change at any time.

And now about the requirements for switches. The switch should be located at a distance of 90-95 cm from the floor and 15 cm from the doorway, near the door to the room, and always on the side of the door handle.

The location of the switches should be such that it is clear which switch is responsible for which lighting circuit.

In the off position, the switch should protrude top part, and in the included lower one.

Two single-key switches will always be better than one two-key switch. But this requirement does not apply to chandelier switches.

The distribution board must be located in an accessible, dry place, preferably near front door, at a height of no more than 70 meters from the floor. Under no circumstances in the bathroom or pantry, especially not in wardrobe. There should be no sanitary connections near it. All live parts in it must be covered.

2. Wire selection.

The wire must have cores with different colors isolation. Therefore, you need to take all the wire from one manufacturer with the same color scheme lived

For wiring, it is best to use solid copper wire, grade VVG - flat, double insulated. It is better with the letters NG, which means non-flammable. Be sure to buy wire marked by trusted and well-known manufacturers. When purchasing, ask for a quality certificate from the seller. Do not take an unmarked wire of unknown origin, even if it is much cheaper. Wiring in a house is done for more than one year and you can’t save money here.

Do not use aluminum wire. With the same cross-section, copper wire can withstand 1.5 times more power than aluminum wire. And with the current filling of the home with various household appliances, this is very relevant. In addition, copper wire is more durable, stronger, and less susceptible to corrosion than aluminum.

Now attention. For capital wiring, you cannot use stranded soft wire of the PVS brands (like this one - it’s double insulated, round) and ShVVP (like this one) - they are used mainly only for extension cords. Such a wire has a higher resistance and lower electrical conductivity than a single-core wire, so it heats up more when loaded. Although it is soft and easy to install when making wiring.

Do not use wires for electrical wiring in an apartment or house. various brands and from various metals.

Now attention. Remember one of the basic rules for selecting wire cross-section. To prevent the wire from heating up, one square or 1 mm2 of the wire cross-section must carry a total current of no more than 9 amperes, that is, such a cable can connect devices with a power of no more than 2 kilowatts.

Based on this, the following cable with a cross-section of one core should be used in combination with the appropriate circuit breakers:

One more thing. If you plan to install sockets with grounding, and you have a properly equipped grounding circuit, then you need to use a three-core copper cable for the sockets. Modern rules organization of electrical wiring requires the installation of sockets only with grounding.
But do not install sockets with grounding if the wiring is two-wire, without a grounding wire! This can be confusing for the consumer. He may think that the outlet is protected by grounding and will pay bitterly for this.

3. Selection of equipment.

When purchasing sockets and switches, pay attention to their quality and the presence of markings on the withstand power. Don't buy very cheap or very expensive ones. Take the average price category. In my opinion, the difference in price does not cover the difference in quality.

Buy installation boxes (socket boxes) for them of the appropriate size and quality. All imported sockets and switches are designed for European standard installation boxes with a diameter of 68 mm.

If you plan to make a panel strip of sockets and switches, then the socket boxes should have special protrusions on the sides to connect them together, at a certain distance.

Buy circuit breakers and other switchboard equipment only from well-known and trusted brands. There is no point in saving money here.

4. Installation of electrical wiring. Wire routing.

In houses with wooden walls, the wiring is done externally. If you need to make an internal one, then only in metal pipe. Sockets, switches and distribution boxes in a wooden house can only be installed externally. If it is necessary to install internal ones, then only in special installation boxes for wooden structures. All wire connections must be located outside the walls only.

In a brick house, wiring can be both internal and external. Near flammable structures made of plastic or wood, a metal cable channel is used to protect the wire. To protect the wire inside the walls, a plastic corrugation is used, and on the finished walls, a plastic box is used outside.

For internal gasket wires use two methods. The first, under the plaster - on top of the walls, and the second, with cutting out grooves - grooves in the wall where the wiring is placed. To avoid damage to the wire during further work, the wire must be completely recessed into the recess of the groove, without protrusions. To cut grooves, various equipment is used - from a grinder with a diamond blade to a hammer drill and a special wall cutter.

It is especially important that according to existing standards, the wire should be laid only vertically and horizontally, and only at right angles. It cannot be laid haphazardly throughout the room. Vertical sections of wires should not pass closer than 10 cm to the corners of the room, as well as window and door openings.

The wires are not laid in a bundle (they cannot be tied together), but each separately, with a distance of at least 3 mm between them. Because in a bundle of wires there is less ability to transfer heat and can overheat. There should also be no crossing of wires with each other.

The wire from each outlet or switch should run vertically up to the ceiling. Then, at a distance of 10 to 25 cm from the ceiling, depending on the thickness of the ceiling (plaster, tension, plasterboard), a distribution box is placed and a horizontal wire channel is formed.

If necessary, a horizontal section can be laid - on the ceiling, under the floor, or horizontally to the floor, but not lower than 10-25 cm from it.

Such standards exist so that after covering the wires with cladding materials, you know at any time where they pass. Violation of this norm can lead to damage to the wiring and tragic consequences. If you decide to hang, for example, a picture on a wall or a cornice on a window, then you will know for sure that you cannot drill a hole above the socket or switch to the ceiling, or at a distance of about 10-25 cm from the ceiling. And in all other places it can be done safely.

At connection points (socket, box), be sure to leave a wire at least 25 cm long.

The choice of elements for fastening the wire to the wall today is quite varied. A single wire is best secured using this herringbone fastener. It has various shapes and sizes. You need to drill a hole in the wall, preferably not in mortar, but in brick, put this “herringbone” on the wire, and insert it into the hole. The wire is secured. For mounting a metal or plastic hose with a wire, there are also various fasteners.

When connecting wires to the distribution board, they must be marked and glued masking tape indicating where exactly this wire goes.

5. Connection of wires.

Now attention! Important point.

Wires intended for lighting and sockets with a cross-section from 1.5 to 2.5 mm2 can be cut, connected and branched from them.

The wire intended for powering electric stoves is flow heaters, that is, to power powerful electrical appliances with a cross-section of 4mm2 and above, you cannot cut, connect or make a branch. It must be solid and go directly from the shield to the device. In addition, for each such device you need to install a separate machine in the switchboard.

This rule must never be broken!

The order of connecting the wires is different in each case, depending on which consumers are suitable for each specific box.

But there is one iron rule that should never be broken.

Attention! A wire with a phase, and not a zero, must be connected to a circuit breaker or switch.

The connection of the wires must be reliable, safe and durable.

Simple twisting is prohibited by electrical installation rules. No matter how well it is made, over time the wires oxidize, the contact weakens, heats up and can lead to a fire. Twisting copper with aluminum is also prohibited, because this guarantees huge problems in the future.

And now about ways to connect the wires.

The first method is to weld wires with a welding inverter. First, twisting is done, and then its ends are connected by welding. But not everyone has such a welding machine at home.

The second method is crimping. Special sleeves of a certain size are placed on the wires to be connected and, using special press pliers, are pressed into the sleeve. But, again, not everyone has such pliers, and the simplest ones cost about $20.

The third method is soldering. The twisted wires can be soldered using a soldering iron with a minimum power of 100 watts, tin and solder. The main thing is not to overheat the wires at the soldering point so that the insulation does not melt. This method is more accessible at home, with, of course, certain skills.

After all these methods, the connection of the wires must be insulated with heat shrink or electrical tape.

All listed species connections are reliable, but they are non-separable, labor-intensive, and already outdated. Among other things, their implementation requires special equipment, and installers charge more for such connections.

Therefore, here I want to say a very important note.

Namely, why is there no need to use these wire connections in a house or apartment: welding, crimping and soldering?

Because any of the modern self-clamping terminal blocks manufactured by WAGO, and not Chinese fakes, can easily withstand the current that is used in a residential area. In addition, such a connection does not require any additional tools or insulation. Anyone can connect wires using a terminal block with their own hands. And if necessary, you can easily change the circuit, because the connection using terminal blocks is removable.

Again I ask for your attention. It is very important. In modern electrical wiring, cables with a cross-section of up to 2.5 mm2 must be connected only using terminal clamps, and machines with a maximum capacity of 16 amperes must be used for them.

And the cable from 4.0 mm2 and above, as you remember, I hope, cannot be connected at all, it must be led intact from the switchboard to the device.

6.Checking the completed electrical wiring.

It is imperative that after the electrical installation is completed, you need to once again check the correctness of the connection and connection of all wires visually. You can also check them using the device. For such a test, there are special devices on sale (and this is not a tester), but they are not cheap. Therefore, there is no point in buying such a device for your home; it is easier to check it yourself, spending an extra hour or two. If errors are identified, and this happens, it is necessary, of course, to correct them.

7. Assembly and installation of the distribution board.

The main thing that should be in the switchboard is a meter and circuit breakers - one general and several for consumer groups. It is advisable to install all other equipment, RCD, automatic circuit breaker, voltage relay, etc., in order to protect the lives of household members and the integrity of connected electrical appliances.

The main machine is needed to turn off the power to the entire apartment with one movement of the hand. And a difavtomat is needed to do the same action automatically.
The residual current device of the RCD is triggered if a differential leakage current appears in the network to which it is connected, when the insulation is damaged and a heating element or other element breaks through to the housing. If a person touches damaged wires or uninsulated parts of equipment, the RCD will instantly turn off the power to the network.

Remember that the RCD does not protect the network from overload and short circuit. That is why the RCD is always connected in series with the machine. These two devices work in pairs, so to speak: one protects against current leaks, the other against overloads and short circuits. If you turn on the RCD without a circuit breaker and connect phase and neutral, resulting in a short circuit, then the RCD will not work. And the wiring, if there are no other protection devices, will burn out along with the RCD.

A differential circuit breaker is a unique device that combines a circuit breaker and an RCD. That is, a differential circuit breaker can protect your wiring from short circuits and overloads, as well as from current leaks.

A voltage relay or UZM (multifunctional protection device) turns off the power supply when it leaves the range you set. This relay is installed to protect electrical appliances connected to the network from power surges in this network.

The circuit breaker must be accurately rated for the load. Here you need to apply the rule that it is better to install a machine with a lower power than a larger one. So that the machine would work earlier and turn off the power, so that the wire would overheat, a short circuit would occur and the wiring would catch fire.

Remember that the machine does not protect the electrical appliance connected to it, but only the wire that powers it, from overheating.

I have already spoken above about which machine needs to protect the cable with which cross-section.

The main mistake here is that people try to install machines with more power, which is why the wiring burns out and apartments burn out.

The wire does not heat up if a device of appropriate power is connected to it. Therefore, there is no need to set the machine’s power higher than the calculated one.

There are vending machines various categories. I won't explain the differences to you.

All you need to remember is the following. For all sockets in the apartment, you need to use machines only with English letter"IN".

For lighting, you can use category B and category C machines.

And for all other power devices, you can use category C machines.

Attention! Under no circumstances should category D automatic machines be installed in an apartment; they are intended for powerful machines and electric motors with high starting currents.

8.Installation of socket boxes.

Place for an installation box in a brick or concrete wall, can be drilled using a hammer drill with a special attachment - a crown with a diameter of 70-75 mm. The required cable is inserted into the socket box.

Socket boxes are installed after all necessary finishing works with walls. That is, we drill a hole for the socket box on a bare, untreated wall, and install the socket box on the wall with a complete and finished finish.

The process is simple. The hole for the socket box, in a brick or concrete wall, is filled with a quick-hardening solution, it can be a solution of building gypsum.

Then the socket box or junction box must be inserted into the hole, aligned with the wall surface and horizontally using a level so that the socket does not protrude from the wall and is not skewed to one side.

In plasterboard, a hole for a socket box is cut out with a special cutter with a diameter of 68 mm and secured using side clamps.

9. Installation of sockets and switches.

There are no special tricks here. You need to remove the top cover of the socket or switch key. Connect the wires to the terminals, having previously cut them to a length of no more than 10 cm. Lay the wires on the bottom of the socket box. Insert the device into the socket until it stops. Secure the device to the socket box with screws and tighten the bolts in the niches on the sides that press the special fastening tabs to the socket box until they stop. Then reinstall the socket cover or switch key.
After installing the sockets, switches and panel, we apply voltage to the electrical wiring and check the correct operation of all sockets, switches and machines.

10. And lastly.

You can do electrical wiring in your house yourself, especially for a person who knows what zero is and what phase is. But there are many different nuances here that even the so-called experts in this matter do incorrectly. For example, when building a summer house, it was only on the fourth attempt that I found a proper electrician. Electrical installation is a very important section of work that should not be trusted to non-professionals.

If you decide to hire an electrician, ask him how he plans to carry out the work and what tools he has for this. Real electricians have a whole set of special tools to carry out all types of work on electrical wiring. And if electricians come to you and they have one hammer between them and it was borrowed from a neighbor, then drive them to the neck.

Ask the technician where he has already installed the wiring and ask the owners about the results. According to what he will order for Consumables, you can understand his qualifications and draw conclusions. After the installation begins, carefully monitor its operation, based on the recommendations that I told you about in this video.
And if you want to do your own electrical wiring, also follow these rules.
What is not clear, ask in the comments and you will succeed. Remember that successful electrical installations depend on being careful, attentive, and following instructions.

Select the right wires, the power of the machines, and try to do high-quality electrical installation with your own hands.

Video. How to do electrical wiring in a house?

But the first finishing, for example, in a newly built house, becomes an even more important task. Here you can no longer get by with simple cosmetics. Sooner or later, you will have to undertake the installation of electrical wiring either yourself or hire professional electricians, because electricity is necessary in the house. And even if one-story house the amount for this will be quite considerable.

But what if these funds are already planned to be spent on something else? This question can be answered like this. With a strong desire, extreme care and accuracy, as well as strict adherence to instructions and rules, you can install the electrical wiring yourself.

Let's try to figure out if it's possible without special education, do the wiring in the house with your own hands, how difficult is it? similar work and what rules must be followed in order to install electricity in a private home. How to conduct wiring, electrical wiring and complete electrification of the house - these are the questions that we will now try to sort out. So, step-by-step instruction How to properly carry out electrical wiring in a private house.

Preparation for installation

Installing wiring first of all means one thing - not to rush and try not to miss a single detail, because this business does not tolerate fuss. Before you start work, it is worth sketching out diagrams of future electrical communications (this diagram may be useful in the future). To do this, first of all, it is necessary to determine the location of the input distribution board, all lamps, sockets, and also calculate maximum power for each of them. Next, having made a schematic sketch on a sheet of paper (an example of a similar sketch is above), distribute the load along the lines - this will be the electrical wiring in the house. It should be taken into account that modern lighting devices consume a fairly small amount of electricity, and therefore it would be quite acceptable to plan the number of lighting lines at the rate of 1 group per 2 rooms, and this is done only for the convenience of subsequent maintenance and repair.

But with power groups, that is, lines that will go to sockets, calculations should be more accurate. After all, the size of the machines and the cross-section of cables suitable for the total power consumed by household appliances will depend on the detailed data of consumers.

Usually, when installing electrical wiring, the best option is to have each socket group in the room run on a separate line. In addition to reducing the load on wiring and circuit breakers, this provides greater convenience during subsequent repairs of sockets and cables, if the need arises.

Naturally, electrical appliances such as an electric stove or a boiler for heating water must run in separate lines.

Section selection

When doing a job such as do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a house, it is very important role plays the calculation of the required cable. This means that only after calculating the total load in the rooms can we proceed to choosing a section. By the way, the wire diameter can also be calculated not only by power consumption, but also by current consumption. All necessary data can be found in technical documentation To household electrical appliances. Such calculations are required before installing electricity in the house.

Do not forget that the cable cross-section is calculated based on the totality of all data, not excluding the distance from the distribution input cabinet to the consumer, as well as the type of installation - when open method conduction, the wire cross-section is allowed to be smaller than with hidden wiring due to natural cooling.

It is also necessary to take into account the material from which the cable is made. All data on the selection and calculation of cable cross-section can be seen in the attached table.

An aluminum cable with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters will be optimal for lighting. mm, and a copper cross-section of 1.5 square meters is sufficient. mm. But this is only under normal lighting conditions. If high power halogen lamps are used for lighting, the calculation is also made according to the table.

It is important to understand that it will be more reliable if the diameter of the wire is slightly larger than required - this will eliminate the need for additional wiring when adding any additional household appliances and electrical equipment in the kitchen or other rooms.

Sockets, switches and lighting fixtures

Having decided on the cross-section and length of the cables, you need to select the necessary lighting fixtures, sockets and switches. This also needs to be done in advance, before going to the store. Sockets are selected depending on the type of household electrical appliance that will be plugged into it. After all, it’s no secret that the plug of a household appliance may be an old model, or it may be according to the European standard, that is, with thick pins. This must be taken into account when designing. It is also necessary to determine the degree of protection, that is, IP. To do this, determine the location of the outlet and the possibility of exposure to aggressive environments, that is, humidity, dust, dirt, etc. This also applies to the choice of switches and lighting devices.

Another important point. If there are small children in the house, then it makes sense to purchase sockets with protective curtains - they will not allow children to put foreign objects inside, which will protect children from injury electric shock.

You also need to decide where the switches will be installed and where dimmers will need to be installed. Depending on this, it will be possible to choose lighting devices. Do not forget that not all LED bulbs can be dimmed, and therefore it is better to immediately calculate the number of adjustable and unregulated lamps.

Installation

After purchasing all the necessary cables and equipment, you can proceed directly to installation. The first thing you need to do is draw the routes along which the cables will pass, after which, using a fence cutter or hammer drill, you need to make grooves, called grooves, into which the electrical wiring will be laid. Also, using a hammer drill and a special diamond or pobedit bit, recesses are made for sockets, switches and junction boxes.

Do not forget that distribution boxes are placed directly above each switch and socket. The grooves into which the wiring is laid are located strictly vertically or horizontally - in this case, in the future you will not have to guess where the wire is located if you have to drill something.

After the grooves are made, a cable is laid, which is fixed in the groove so that the channel can subsequently be plastered. In places where sockets, switches and distribution boxes are installed, it is necessary to leave at least 10–15 cm of wire reserve, which is necessary for connections.

By the way, if the wire goes from the distribution box to a single-key switch, then the cable should be two-wire, and if it goes to a two-key switch, then it should be three-wire. It’s probably worth looking at the methods of installing distribution boxes in a little more detail.

Electrical wiring

Surely everyone has noticed that the colors of the cable insulation different color. This is not done by the manufacturer for beauty or aesthetics. First of all, this is ease of installation and subsequent maintenance, as well as the electrical safety of the installer himself.

Wiring by color is carried out as follows:

• The yellow-green, light green or yellow wire is always ground. These are the colors that are generally accepted today.
• Blue, cyan or white with a blue stripe - always a neutral wire or neutral. It should not be confused with grounding. Of course, if these cores are bridged, the equipment will not fail, but if a residual current device (RCD) is installed in the input panel, it will be constantly switched off.
• All other colors are used as phase wires.

The wiring diagram must correspond to the color marking.

It is important to remember that in order to make the wiring in distribution box on the switches correctly, it is the “phase” that should be interrupted, which means the neutral wire (and, if present, the ground wire) must be routed so that it goes directly to the lamp, and the phase goes down to the switching device.

Both wires are sent from the box to the sockets, that is, both “phase” and “zero”.

Connections in junction boxes must be tight. For this, it is advisable to use special terminal blocks - Wago. If the twisting method is used, then it makes sense to solder such connections to obtain better contact and prevent heating of the wire.

Installation of the incoming power cabinet

Maybe, the most important stage in the installation of electrical wiring in a private house is the connection of elements of the power panel, through which electricity will be supplied, protection against overloads and short circuits, as well as metering of electricity supplied to residential premises.

It should be noted that all installation is carried out first electrical cabinet and switching of wiring going to the premises, and only after that the main power is supplied.

Modern switchboards are equipped with special DIN rails that facilitate the fastening of equipment such as automatic machines, RCDs and electric meters.
The power cabinet switching sequence is as follows:

The first step is to attach the input machine. Its rating must be higher than the total power of the distribution machines. Also, the wire going from it to the electricity meter, as well as from the electric meter to the distribution machines, must have a larger cross-section than the cable cores going to the distribution lines in residential premises.

It must also be remembered that the power line for voltage input from the pole to the house is made only by the service organization after the necessary approvals. Under no circumstances should you do this kind of work yourself. This means that wiring in a private house is a job that is performed by House master, and the feed power line input is the task of a specialist.

Installation of an electricity meter

The electric meter is installed after the introductory two-pole circuit breaker as follows.

The phase wire from the breaker comes to the first, and the neutral wire to the third contact. The second contact is the phase output to the distribution machines, and the fourth is the zero output, which is connected to the zero bus, which is usually provided in modern electrical panels. All blue or blue (depending on the cable manufacturer) lines going to the premises are also connected to it. This is where the advantage of color-coded cables comes into play.

When connecting an electricity meter, you can also be guided by the connection diagram, which is always present on the back of the protective contact cover.

The wire strands in the contact terminals of the meter, which has two clamping screws, are fixed as follows: first, the upper screw is tightened, then the lower one is pressed. Thus, the core is evenly and tightly located in the contact terminal, which will avoid heating.

Distribution machines

Purchased according to the number of socket and lighting groups, as well as their currents, the machines are mounted on a DIN rail. From above, among themselves, they are all connected by jumpers. Thus, when power is applied to one of them, the voltage is evenly distributed across all.

After this, you should, without mixing up the groups, connect the wires going to the premises to the distribution machines. In this case, it makes sense to sign each of the machines, which of the groups it connects to. This will eliminate unnecessary shutdowns when replacing, for example, a lamp or socket. After all, if a problem occurs in one of the sockets, you can turn off the machine that is responsible for this particular group. Then electrical appliances in other rooms will operate as normal, and in the room where repairs or replacement are needed, the lights will even be on. Therefore, it is worth carefully considering the electrical wiring project at home.

After all the work done, you need to once again stretch all the contacts on the machines, the electricity meter and, most importantly, on the zero bus, since if there is poor contact and heating of the wire, it is the “zero” that begins to burn first.

In addition, after 2-3 weeks of operation, these contacts will need to be checked again and, if necessary, extended.

Testing and commissioning

If you are not sure that all the wiring in the junction boxes is done correctly, it is, of course, better to contact a specialist. If you have such confidence, you can begin checking. Without installing light fixtures, sockets and switches, it is necessary (of course, after making sure that all the terminals from them do not bridge each other), turn on the lines of the power (outlet) group one by one. If there are no short circuits (the machines have not turned off), you need to check all the wires of the sockets using an indicator or multitester. If everything is in order, you can move on to the lighting groups.

After disconnecting the sockets, the room lighting circuit breakers are turned on, and then the voltage at the terminals on the switches is checked, where there should be an incoming phase and one or two outgoing wires without voltage. When normal, the lighting lines are turned off and the breaker wires are bridged. This will allow you to check the voltage at the cable terminals directly to the lighting devices after power is applied.

If testing does not reveal any complaints, you can safely cover up the scratches on the walls, close the distribution boxes and (of course, turn off the power) start interior decoration premises. This completes the installation of electrical wiring in a private house.

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring, as already mentioned, means being careful and accurately following instructions and rules - home electrical wiring is complex. But the factor of self-confidence is also important. Therefore, if, before making the wiring, there are doubts about the ability to complete the entire installation, then it is better to immediately entrust this matter to specialists.

Do not think that after completing some of the electrical installation work, you will be able to pay a smaller amount. This option will not exist, and here's why. Not a single self-respecting professional will undertake to carry out electrical wiring in a house where the installation has already been started by others because, in fact, everything needs to be redone and rechecked.

The main thing is accuracy and close contact. Connection using WAGO terminal blocks.

Therefore, the amount for services of this kind may not only be equal to the cost of complete electrical installation, but even exceed it.

If, nevertheless, the work is done in a private house with your own hands, you need to carefully monitor the tightness of the connections and compliance color coding, to avoid short circuits, damage to electrical equipment or electric shock.

Of course, doing electrical wiring in a house is a very complex and labor-intensive process, and it also takes a lot of time. But still, when the right approach it is completely doable on your own, which will save money, and most importantly, it will help you purchase a huge and most useful experience installation that will never be superfluous.

The need to conduct electrical wiring in a house may arise in some situations - during renovation, construction of a new home, or replacement of outdated electrical equipment. The main requirement for installation is experience in working with electrical networks and the tools used.

Ignoring safety precautions and negligence in handling electrical appliances and equipment can lead to serious consequences. Particular attention should be paid to fire safety precautions when working in wooden houses.

Where to start installing electrical wiring?

apartment wiring diagram

house wiring diagram

For a more accurate location of wiring throughout the house, you need to draw up a detailed diagram, or preferably two. One – electric, for determining all types electrical devices, their power, connection methods, and the second - the installation room, in which you indicate the location of the electrical cable outlets for each device throughout the house.

When drawing up a diagram, you should adhere to some rules:

1. Every line must have a separate cable and come from the distribution panel.
2. Where the lines branch boxes are installed.
3. Every light fixture and sockets, are broken down by type of power and wiring cross-section.
4. In each type group, total power - 4.6 kW, for wiring with a cross-section of 2.5 mm, and power of 3.3 kW - with a cross-section of 1.5 mm. If the wiring power is greater than permissible, then it is divided into subgroups.
5. In the shield a separate circuit breaker is allocated for each group, for lighting with a power of 16 A, for sockets and groups of sockets, respectively, 25 A or 40 A.
6. Sockets grounded devices are installed for devices with increased power and connected to a separate circuit breaker; they cannot be combined into groups.
7. For particularly powerful devices(washing machines, dishwashers, kettles, electric water heaters, microwaves and more) copper wiring with a cross-section of 1 mm square is installed for every 1.5 kW of power, minimum.
8. Ground wire must be continuous; it is not allowed to install sockets on it using the “loop” method.
9. In dry rooms switches are mounted in a break in the phase wire (they are not installed in a neutral wire), and in wet ones - in breaks in the neutral and phase lines.
10. If the house has two floors, then the devices are divided into groups and subgroups by floor.

Healthy! The cross-section of the wires can be safely increased by 50%, this will only increase its ability to bear additional load. At the same time, the cost of purchasing this type of wiring will increase slightly. It is important not to purchase wires with a cross-section lower than the calculated one; this will most likely lead to overheating of the wire and a fire.

Features of installing wiring in the house

Before you start installing wiring in the house with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for installing the equipment and follow the installation conditions:

1. Provide free access to all electrical equipment - sockets, switches and metering equipment.
2. Equipment installation performed at a distance of 60–150 cm from the floor.
3. Doors and other interior or furniture parts should not block access.
4. Cables are laid only in the upper part of the room.
5. Sockets are mounted at a distance of 50-80 cm from the floor, wires are supplied from below, the minimum distance to an electric or gas stove is 50 cm, as well as to pipes and heating radiators.
6. Sockets are mounted in the amount of 1 piece. for 6 sq. meters, with the exception of the kitchen - here sockets are installed according to the number of appliances. A separate voltage reduction system must be provided for the bathroom.
7. Laying the wire, maintaining clear horizontal or vertical lines without bends or creases.
8. Horizontally lay the wire with a minimum distance of 5 - 10 cm from the eaves or ceiling, as well as 15 cm from the floor and ceiling. Vertical – 10 cm from the edge doorways or windows, from gas pipes retreat 40 cm.
9. Do not allow wires to touch and metal structures of the building.
10. and copper wires are excluded, reliably insulate each connection, use boxes when routing cables and connecting them.

Installation methods

The wiring is mounted in two installation methods - open and hidden:

Open wiring

Open installation of cables is carried out on the outer surfaces of walls or ceilings. The advantages are good repair data and quick installation. Externally, such a network is not aesthetically pleasing; it is used mainly in country houses and outbuildings, wooden houses without finishing.

But this type of wiring has a number of advantages:

1. It is possible to use cables and wires with a minimum cross-section to create the same load.
2. Open wiring control much easier to carry out than hidden.
3. Allowed to be installed in wooden houses, or having a wooden finish.

Open wiring happens:

1. Stationary.
2. Mobile.
3. Portable.

Hidden wiring

Hidden electrical wiring is installed inside the walls or ceilings of the house, under decorative cladding. Such wiring is safer due to protection from mechanical damage and open fire. But it requires additional effort during installation.

To install such a network, it is better to use copper wires with 2,3,4 cores, with a cross-section of at least 1 mm square per 1.5 kW load. Two-wire wires are used for devices without mandatory grounding, three-wire wires are installed when connecting equipment with required grounding or several switches in a row, four-wire wires are used for boilers and similar devices connected to three phases.

Healthy! In the installation of hidden wiring, only the wire is used, and the cable is used in the open method of installing the electrical network.

Preparing for wiring

Before you begin installing electrical wiring, you must:

1. Prepare material.
2. Make markings.
3. Prepare the walls for wiring installation.

The next step is to perform a number of works:

1. Apply markings to the walls of the premises, so to speak, a draft of the entire wiring diagram, indicate the place where the wires enter the house, where sockets, lighting fixtures and switches will be located.
2. Transfer the electrical lines diagram on the plane of the room, indicate where the electrical wiring will go and the space allocated for the electrical panel, installed at a height of 1.5 m from the floor.
3. You need to start laying the line of the main bundle of wires, indicating the places of turns. Upon completion, it would be useful to make a copy on paper; it will help with further reconstruction or repair of the wiring.

Tools needed when replacing wiring in a house:

• Bulgarian;
• disc on concrete or stone;
• hammer drill;
• drill;
• screwdriver with LED;
• cord;
• construction level;
• putty knife;
• insulating tape;
• putty or other fixing material;

Materials required for work:

• copper or aluminum wires;
• sockets;
• switches;
• distribution boxes;
• installation boxes for sockets;

After completing all the preparations, you need to prepare the tools for installing the line:

1. Bulgarian. She must have diamond blade for cutting concrete, such a disc can work on any surface, not necessarily concrete.
2. Chisel for installation and hammer. Use them on soft materials– plaster, foam block. Using such “gentle” tools, there will be less dust than using an angle grinder.
3. Using existing tools, you can lay a groove (furrow) in the wall, a cable or wire is inserted into it. The depth of such a recess is from 2 to 3 cm, and the width is 2 cm.
4. Cut cables or wires, adding 15-15 cm to their required length for allowance for twisting together. This must be taken into account when calculating materials.
5. Place a cable of the appropriate length into the prepared groove, and commit it mortar similar to that used to decorate the wall. At the same time, level the mixture with the plane of the walls so that the area with the wiring does not stand out on the wall. To do this, prepare the mixture according to the instructions in a small volume, and apply it with a spatula to the laid cable in some places, wait until it dries completely, and smooth out the unevenness with a foam float.

Installation rules and safety precautions

junction box

Before you begin installing the electrical network indoors, you need to familiarize yourself with the installation rules:

1. Install distribution boxes at the points where wires branch to switches and sockets.
2. The switch is located at the entrance, preferably on the side where the door handle is located, so that when opening it does not touch the door.
3. Safety precautions It is prohibited to mount the socket close to metal grounding devices (gas and electric stoves, sinks, etc.), or maintain a distance of 50 cm between the socket and the device.
4. Forbidden Installation of sockets should be carried out in rooms with high humidity. In the shower room, bath, or sauna it is only allowed to maintain a distance of at least 2.4 meters from water sources.

To begin installation of the electrical network, you must familiarize yourself with the safety rules:

1. Before starting work, familiarize yourself with the old line laying diagrams to avoid damaging them.
2. Work is performed in daylight, since when replacing electrical wiring, the house is de-energized.
3. When performing electrical installation work It is recommended to use special tools with insulated handles.
4. Before, how to touch the connected wires in the circuit, they should be checked with a screwdriver with an indicator to see if there is voltage flowing through the wires.

Careless behavior with electricity can lead to irreversible consequences and serious trouble.

Healthy! If the wire is marked “NG”, this means that fire-resistant plastic was used in its manufacture, and this will eliminate the source of the fire if the wiring catches fire.

Operational control

When using electrical equipment in the home, you should follow the recommendations from the following manuals:

1. "Rules for the use of electricity."
2. “Rules for technical operation of electrical installations by consumers.”
3. “Safety rules for the operation of electrical installations by consumers.”

Compliance with these instructions is mandatory. Responsibility for the condition of the entire network and operational safety lies entirely with the owner. Monitoring compliance with safety precautions and operating rules falls entirely on the energy supply organization with which the corresponding contract is concluded.

This organization conducts systematic checks of the condition of the electrical network, its operating rules and compliance with all rules for using the network.

Electrical wiring cost calculation

In order to find out the exact cost of wiring in the house, you must first calculate the amount of cable. There are 2 calculation methods:

1. Calculation according to the electrical network diagram.
2. Based on the total area of ​​the room.

Calculation based on an electrical wiring diagram involves drawing up a detailed diagram. It should include specific information:

1. Specify, how many sockets, switches, distribution boxes will be needed, as well as the height, fasteners and methods of connecting to the network.
2. Determine the location of each lighting fixture(chandeliers, Spotlights and more), ceiling height - will it lower or not?
3. Choose. For lighting devices, take a wire with a cross-section of 3.0 * 1.5 mm sq., for a socket 3.0 * 2.5 mm sq., for partings with increased power - 3.0 * 4.0 mm sq.

Using the prepared project, you can easily calculate the length of the wire, the number of sockets and switches. Alternatively, you can transfer the diagram to the walls and measure it with a tape measure, which will be more accurate.

The second option is simplified, you need total area multiply the premises by 2. This will give you the required footage. But there are a number of nuances in this method:

1. Only 1 line is defined this way, lighting or power.
2. The calculation is carried out in a ratio of 1:1.5. Where 1.0 equals the lighting line, and 1.5 equals the power line. That is, for a room of 50 square meters. m. consumption of the power line is 50 x 1.5 = 75 m. and for the lighting line - 50 x 1 = 50 m.

1. Corridor– 1 socket (50 RUR).
2. Kitchen– 2 sockets (100 RUR).
3. Rooms– 9 sockets (450 RUR).
4. Switches for the whole house– 7 pieces (60 rubles).
5. Additional socket for washing machine– 1 piece (50 rubles).
6. Copper wire– on average 135 m (6075 rubles/meter).
7. Lighting(cartridges for incandescent lamps) – 7 pieces (210 RUR).
8. Installation boxes for sockets– 13 pieces (65 rubles).
9. Distribution boxes– 5 pieces (250 RUR).
10. Distribution panel– 1 piece (130 RUR).

So, let’s sum up the costs of all materials and components - 7,390 rubles is the minimum cost of installing a network yourself, without involving professionals.

If you don’t have the skills to work with electrical equipment, then all you have to do is turn to professional electricians. The exact price will depend on the complexity of the scheme.

Prices for installation work on the electrical network in a three-room house of 60 sq.m.:

1. Wall chipping(60 m) – 13200 rub.
2. Installation of sockets(13 pieces) – 3900 rub.
3. Installation of distribution boxes(5 pieces) – 1500 rub.
4. Installation of distribution panel(1 piece) – 1000 rub.
5. Wire laying(135 m) – 4050 rub.

Total: installation work 23650 rub. To this amount it remains to add the cost of the material 7390 rubles.

Network connection

The final stage is connecting the electrical wiring to the general electrical network. This connection is usually carried out by housing and communal services electricians. But before contacting them, you must obtain permission from the electricity supply organization. This issue can be resolved quite quickly, provided that all installation rules and regulations are observed, as well as the operation of the electrical network.

This completes the process of installing electrical wiring in the house. There is nothing impossible or difficult about carrying out such work. But you shouldn’t treat the installation electrical networks If neglected, this can lead to a fire hazard and will damage the entire system.

Installing new electrical wiring yourself requires a competent approach and accuracy. Before starting direct installation, a wiring diagram is drawn. In a private home, this is especially important, since installation errors can lead to a fire hazard. A drawn power supply diagram will help you quickly and accurately eliminate damage that may occur in the future or upgrade your home network.

Requirements for wiring in a private house

Electrical wiring is carried out in the form of a combination of wires and cables, as well as their fastenings and associated protective elements. It can be installed in both open and closed types. Open type wiring is laid along the surface of walls, ceilings or floors using: cables, rollers, hoses. Hidden electrical wiring is laid in the middle of various elements of the house: under the floor, in walls, suspended ceilings or in other monolithic objects.

Installing electrical wiring in a private house with your own hands is not difficult at all if there is a clear circuit diagram. At the same time, all work goes much faster and the likelihood of mistakes is less. Before you begin planning and drawing up a diagram, you need to know what the installation requirements are.

The list of requirements is established by special rules of the PES (rules for the operation of electrical installations), which are mandatory. Here's the main list:

Electrical wiring steps

Compliance with all requirements will ensure that the electrical wiring in the house is done correctly with your own hands. Step by step diagram drawing up a plan can be represented in the form of the following operations:

• choice of material and its quantity;
• installation diagram drawing;
• laying and installation of all parts of electrical wiring;
• performance check.

It is not difficult to complete the steps yourself. But before you properly conduct wiring in the house, you will need to complete the preparatory stage. It includes determining the places where connection points for electrical appliances and lamps will be located, and their number.

Selection of materials and installation method

The utility company supplies electricity through installed lines using poles and poles or through power cables buried in the ground. From common line the cable branches off to an electrical panel located on private property. The branch is made with a two-wire or three-wire wire. Accordingly, a two-phase or three-phase line is used. More often, a cable containing a phase and a neutral is removed. An electricity meter is installed at the end of this line. It is important to know that the line to the meter belongs entirely to the energy supply company, and it is prohibited to perform any operations with it.

Further laying of the line is carried out by the owner of the household himself or by an electrician. The line itself can be laid open or hidden.

Wiring open type is performed on the surface in a visible form, which is both a disadvantage and an advantage. The advantage is ease of installation, free access to any part of the electrical network, but the disadvantage is poor protection from mechanical damage. The cable, laid along the surface, is attached through insulators that resemble a fungus. In this case, the design of sockets, switches, and distribution boxes is of an overhead type. To protect against damage and ensure electrical safety, plastic boxes are used. They form a channel into which the cable is laid.

Hidden wiring is located in the completed, and after laying the cable, plastered grooves. Hidden in floor screed or behind false panels. Electrical accessories are used internally. The wire itself, if not laid in a concrete or brick wall, is laid in a metal hose. The disadvantage is that if the wire is damaged, you will have to remove it from monolithic structures. It is possible to use a combined method, making some areas hidden and others external. The required parts of the electrical wiring in the house will be:

1. Switch box.
2. Circuit breaker.
3. Electrical appliance connection point.
4. Switch.
5. Junction box.
6. Cable.

The electrical panel is installed in such a size that all input elements fit into it. The circuit breaker is designed to quickly break the wire in the event of an emergency on the line. Its main characteristic is the value of the rated current. How many amperes a machine will need in a house is calculated by summing the power of the entire planned load that can be connected simultaneously to the circuit.

When selecting a machine, not only the power of the connected devices is taken into account, but also the quality and cross-section of the installed electrical wiring. A mismatch in the cross-section of the cable that will be used for wiring electricity can lead to overheating, resulting in a short circuit and fire.

The cross-section of a wire is characterized by the amount of current that it passes through itself without deteriorating its electrical properties. For example, a copper wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm/2 can withstand a continuous current load of 19 amperes. Therefore, it is impossible to use a 20 A circuit breaker with such a cross-section; you will need one for 16 A.

The distribution box has the form of a plastic container with a lid, on the sides of which there are holes for cable entry. Its main characteristics are the size and quality of the material it is made of. Switches and sockets are designed for a current that does not exceed the value of the devices connected to them.

Building a circuit

After selecting materials and locating connection points for electrical appliances, a drawing of the electrical circuit is made. Best to use ready plan house, which depicts all the elements involved in the construction of the electrical network.

To simplify wiring, consumers are divided into groups; this will also help distribute the load and save materials. If a private house has many rooms, then the drawing shows separately the outlet circuits and lighting. The diagram indicates the following:

The cable leaving the meter exits and is switched at the distribution panel. A series of automatic protection systems are installed in it, consisting of an input circuit breaker and single-pole switches. Ideally, each electrical point is equipped with its own automatic machine, but this is not unprofitable in terms of costs. Therefore, groups are created, each of which has its own fuse.

In the middle of the group there is a disconnection in the following way. The power wire coming out of the machine branches in the distribution box to each electrical point. Such a point represents the place to which the electrical device is switched. In this case, a wire with two or three cores is supplied to the socket, and it is connected in parallel. The switch is installed in series in the break of the power wire.

A wire with three cores implies grounding through one of the three wires. The presence of grounding is important, since on metal cases electrical appliances there is a potential difference, for example, across a refrigerator, kettle, heating boiler, etc. This voltage can be life-threatening in the event of an insulation breakdown. Performed grounding eliminates this problem. For this purpose, the socket is equipped with a grounding contact. In fact it is a continuous connection metal parts electrical appliances with earth.

Grounding is carried out using a circuit in the form of a triangle, welded from thick metal having equal sides. The grounding loop is located at a distance of no more than 1 meter from the foundation of the house. Screwed to the triangle using a bolt large section a wire, the other end of which is connected to the grounding strip in the panel.

Cable laying and installation of elements

After drawing up the diagram and purchasing materials, installation occurs. The main thing is to observe safety precautions and strictly follow the drawn diagram. First, lines are drawn along the surfaces of the walls and ceilings corresponding to the laying of the wire. Then the locations of the electrical accessories are marked. For hidden wiring, the following is done: gating, preparation of recesses for sockets, switches, and space for the panel. For external versions, cable holders are attached at equal distances and holes are made for fastening overhead fittings.

After laying and securing the cable, the shield is assembled. To do this, an input circuit breaker is installed on the DIN rail and automatic switches are installed on each group of lines. If necessary, an RCD is added or a differential circuit breaker is installed instead of the input one. This is a type of switch that simultaneously combines the functions circuit breaker and RCD. A grounding and neutral strip is also installed in the shield.

After installing all the elements in the panel, the wires are connected. It is generally accepted to use brown for the phase wire, blue for neutral and yellow-white for grounding. All connections are made using device clamps. In the distribution box, the wires are connected by twisting with further insulation or using clamps in sockets and switches according to their design.

Functionality check

After wiring in the house is done with your own hands or with the help of a specialist, it needs to be checked. To do this, use a multimeter in the dialing mode to check the integrity of the wiring, the absence of short circuits in sockets and switches, and the functionality of the machines.

Only after a successful check is the input machine connected to the meter terminals to supply electricity to the system. If possible, be sure to turn off the machine in front of the meter when connecting. It should be remembered that 220 volt voltage is dangerous to life and working with it requires clearance and knowledge of protection, so at the final stage it is better to invite an electrician.