Polymer floors on a wooden floor. Self-leveling wood floor mortar application

Most often, a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor is found in wooden-type houses. Perhaps these are village houses built a very long time ago or large cottages built according to modern projects from a log house. In any such house, you can carry out the installation of a self-leveling floor. Perhaps someone will make a small discovery for themselves, but making a self-leveling floor in a house made of wood is not considered a particular problem today. Modern polyurethane mixtures allow you to create any kind of coating. The only and important condition is the complete readiness of the wooden floor.

A modern elastic, fast-acting self-leveling floor is considered an excellent replacement for expensive particle boards. Together with a special reinforcing mesh, a special universal primer, a system is created that helps to overcome the stress experienced by a wooden floor that does not have cracks. The result is an absolutely even surface on which a wide variety of operations can be carried out. You can put carpet, stick on ceramic tiles, or just paint. The wooden floor must have a self-leveling floor layer with a maximum thickness of 20 mm. After 5 hours have elapsed after the application of the coating, walking on the new wooden floor is allowed, after 12 hours, it becomes possible to carry out the next work.

And, of course, in order for the installation to be of high quality, prepare in advance:

• empty containers;
• screwdriver;
• puncher;
• hammer;
• rule;
• level;
• roulette.

What floors do wooden houses have?

Houses made of wood, similar to living quarters, require special attention to the arrangement of the floor, since the rooms in such a house are usually located on the lower floor. That is why the coating should be absolutely even, look attractive and be sure to be insulated.

In most cases, a timber house has two types of floors. They are concrete, or wood is used for this. And most of all the advantages of a concrete floor. Such a floor requires a small investment, much less fuss with it, it does not need special professional skills to carry out the installation of such a coating. However, the concrete pavement is the weight that exerts increased pressure on the foundation of the building. Any vibration of the walls can cause cracking of the base, as a result of which the thermal insulation capacity of the material will be lost.

A wooden floor is more resistant to any vibrations of the walls, it meets all environmental requirements. Such a wooden floor can be easily processed, replaced with rotten boards, and all work can be carried out even after the complete installation of the wooden floor. The negative side of such a floor is its high cost, only professional workers can perform work on installing a wooden floor, it is almost impossible to get an absolutely smooth surface.

Preparing the base for grouting

How high the quality of the coating will be depends largely on the main stage at which the foundation is prepared. Failure to comply with a step-by-step, competent technology for obtaining self-leveling floors will lead to cracking of the coating, it can begin to deteriorate, peeling will be observed that occurs before the operational period. Only a reliable base made with high quality can become a high-quality guarantee for the long-term operation of the floor covering.

Sometimes a self-leveling floor is mounted directly on an old wooden floor. In this regard, the wood must be sanded using sandpaper to obtain a rough structure. Treated boards should be painted with a special primer. In the case when the first layer is not very strong and monolithic, it is necessary to apply several additional layers. The wood surface should be free from grease, varnish and oil stains.

At the next stage, it is necessary to remove the installed baseboards, fill the cracks in the floor with bars. The wooden floor must be scrubbed very carefully using a scraper. When performing such an operation, you need to pay a lot of attention to the existing inter-plank connections, to expose all existing cracks. Using a vacuum cleaner, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of the self-leveling floor, degrease it using a cleaning powder.

After that, well-processed cracks must be sealed using mortar for this, to level the surface. Then lines are drawn along the entire perimeter of the room, the length of which is less than the length of the room. Screws are placed along each line, maintaining a step equal to 30 cm. With the help of a laser level, the highest point on the surface of the self-leveling floor is found.

Screws should be screwed in, adhering to the same level.

Moreover, they must be screwed into the ends at an angle of 90 degrees along the previously drawn lines. Place a few pieces of alabaster next to each screw.

The next stage will be the laying of the beacons that are required for the self-leveling floor. They fit directly onto the screws. There should be no subsidence of the lighthouses, if this happens, they need to be cemented.

Some features

Before starting the installation of a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor, it is necessary to lay an assembly tape around the entire perimeter of the walls. This will be a damper pad, it will protect the surface in case of expansion, as the temperature rises.

After completing all the preparatory work, you need to determine the humidity and temperature in the room. Production technology very often requires these parameters to have certain values. This is especially true for self-leveling floors where wood is used.

The prepared solution is immediately poured onto an area equal to 2 square meters. m. The solution is leveled using beacons. To obtain uniformity, it is rolled with a needle roller. When carrying out work, it is necessary to ensure that the rise of the self-leveling floor in relation to the installed beacons is maintained. The poured floor must dry well.

After the surface has seized and finally dried, the topcoat, consisting of varnish and resin, is poured. It will give the finished coating an excellent glossy shine and improve the strength characteristics.

Appreciated for their quality and high wear resistance. This is a long-lasting coating that is really capable of not only making the floor even, but also beautiful. But in order for such floors to serve for many years and look really presentable, it is important to fill them correctly. In this case, one of the important aspects of the pouring process is the correct preparation of the base. It is interesting that you can make a self-leveling floor on a wooden base, and not only on a solid concrete. What features of installation are important to consider in this case?

Self-leveling floors are made of special polymer mixtures, which, when solidified, can become a solid, neat and even base if the installation was done correctly. The composition of the mixtures used to create them can include cement, gypsum, all kinds of fillers, as well as a number of modifying additives that give the floors certain properties - for example, strength, ability to resist impacts, speed of mixture setting, etc.

They are appreciated for the following benefits:

• high level of wear resistance;
• a large selection of colors;
• environmental friendliness;
• excellent moisture insulating properties;
• antistatic;
• durability;
• seamlessness - you can pour floors of this type throughout the apartment without a single joint;
• resistance to a number of mechanical influences, as well as to the effects of almost all existing chemicals.

It is necessary to fill the self-leveling floors on a properly prepared base. And many doubt whether it is possible to equip them on top. It turns out you can. It is only important to properly prepare such a foundation. It is also important to choose the right type of mixture for pouring.

Table. Types of mixtures for pouring.

On a note! Floor casting compounds can be either two-component or one-component. In the first case, you can create floors with a beautiful pattern, and mixtures of the second type are used to create a base for other materials such as tiles, stone, etc.

Prices for self-leveling floors "Prospectors"

self-leveling floors prospectors

Choosing a pouring mix

Usually, each package with a mixture for the manufacture of a self-leveling base indicates its purpose. That is, for example, some are suitable for creating floors on a concrete base, while others may well be used on a wooden one. Most often, mixtures containing gypsum and cement are excellent for these purposes.

Important! Do not confuse flooring mixes with compositions intended for leveling the surface. Such compositions are poured in a thin layer of only a few millimeters. For pouring a floor on a wooden base, the thickness of the poured layer must be greater.

In order to choose the right mixture for pouring wood flooring, it is important to carefully study the instructions.

What do you need?

To make a self-leveling floor yourself, you may need certain tools. The list of things to buy or rent includes:

• directly the mixture itself;
• wide spatula equipped with a long handle;
• construction mixer or a conventional drill with a special attachment;
• a needle roller, which is used to remove air bubbles from the filled mixture;

• building level of any type - necessary to assess the final result;
• means for grinding (grinder, sandpaper, etc.);
• waterproofing materials (at least a dense polyethylene film);
• construction vacuum cleaner;

• hammer, nails, nail puller;
• a sealing compound with which it will be possible to eliminate gaps between floorboards or plywood sheets. Can be replaced with putty.

The popularity of self-leveling floors in the modern world is growing and gaining momentum. Today, many are interested in the question: is it possible to mount a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor? This is what we will discuss in this article. Today, self-leveling floors meet the following indicators:

Durability;
strength;
moisture resistance;
environmental materials and safety;
not susceptible to fire and negative temperatures.

Having an impeccable look, self-leveling floors attract the attention of buyers. On top of such a floor, you can lay absolutely any covering. The self-leveling coating is not afraid of falling heavy objects, temperature changes, aggressive chemicals. The newest methods of decoration and design are constantly changing and expanding, an increasing number of colors, three-dimensional images appear, various inclusions and inlays are added.
Today the quality of self-leveling floors has changed in comparison with its predecessors. As an example, a 3d self-leveling floor can be presented, which is a decorative element with an exceptional design and three-dimensional images.

If a self-leveling solution is laid on a concrete coating today does not raise any questions, then pouring a self-leveling floor on a wooden one immediately implies difficulties in installation. Since not everyone likes to dismantle the wooden floor, and if at the same time it is completely like this in the house, doubts immediately arise regarding the installation of the self-leveling coating. However, if certain conditions are met, it is possible to lay a self-leveling floor on a wooden base.The main criterion for work is the condition of the coating, which must still comply with good standards of use, while the mixture must be made thin-filled so as not to greatly affect the change in the height of the ceilings.

Preparing a wooden base for pouring

Since a perfectly flat surface is required for pouring a self-leveling floor, the wooden base must be carefully prepared for this process. The wood floor should be in good working order, not rotten, there should be no loose boards, everything is anchored firmly and securely.

At the initial stage, it is necessary to remove all skirting boards from the room. Then scrub the floor thoroughly with a scraper to remove the varnished or painted layer of the boards. After that, it is necessary to wipe with a grinder all cracks that are almost always present on the old floor. With the help of putty, you need to cover and putty all cracks and unevenness in the floor. And you need to wait until it dries completely. For best adhesion of the coated mix, sand the floor again with coarse sandpaper.

Having cleaned the base, it must be free from dust and degreased. The next stage of work is the floor primer, which guarantees good adhesion of the polyurethane mortar to the wood. The main rule is that you need to do this at least twice. Particles of sifted quartz sand, which are included in the primer, create roughness to the wood, while increasing the degree of adhesion, including multidirectionality.

The main working tools for preparing wood and pouring a self-leveling floor are represented by the following list:

Nail puller, wedges made of wood, and also a chisel;
a machine or hand scraper;
Sander;
coarse sandpaper or emery;
industrial or household vacuum cleaner;
roller or brush for applying the primer;
a flat brush or a paint roller with a short nap for even application of the polymer mixture;
a needle roller for removing air when applying the solution;
squeegee or metal spatula;
construction mixer or drill with a nozzle designed for a polymer floor.

You will also need to use special clothing, glasses and, of course, studded shoes, which are designed to move on a flooded floor.

Self-leveling coating installation technology

What is most interesting is that the technology of pouring a self-leveling mortar on a wooden coating is basically the same as applying it to a concrete base. The main differences are presented only in the preparation of the basis for these actions.

However, before you start pouring the floor in the house, you need to lay mounting tape around the entire perimeter of the room. And you will also need to install special beacons that help keep a certain level of the floor.
You should buy a quality mixture for pouring the floor from a trusted supplier. Before use, you need to carefully study the instructions for preparing the mixture, which is always on the product packaging. In order for everything to work out correctly, you must very strictly follow all of its points.

Usually they take a dry mixture and pour it into a container where it is necessary to knead it. A large bucket of water-based paint will work best for this process. Having filled in the required amount of water, which is reflected in the instructions, you can start mixing the solution with a mixer or drill with a special nozzle. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, only then can it be laid out on the treated wood floor. The main condition is that the mixture must be laid out, starting from the farthest side of the room. towards the doors.

It is necessary to level the mass to a thickness of 5 mm, and a spatula will perfectly help with this. This size is most suitable for rooms with wooden floors. So that air does not collect, and the surface is smooth and even over the solution, you need to walk with a rubber needle roller. If necessary, you can move around the room only in spiked shoes. If necessary to level the mixture in hard-to-reach places, a spatula is best. Since the coating is self-leveling, the leveling is mostly self-leveling, as water spills over the floor.

Since the mixture solution hardens very quickly, its batch must be prepared very quickly. The time interval between batches should be no more than 10 minutes. The optimal solution would be to make the floor together, which allows one to fill the floor, and the other to prepare the next batch of mortar. But if this is not possible, then you need to pay special attention to the pouring joints between batches, they must be carefully processed with a roller.

At the end of the work in the room, you must wait 15 minutes, and then cover the floor with foil. This is to ensure that the surface remains glossy, free of dust and debris. After the floor has completely dried, when you can move around it without fear, the final type of coating is applied. There is already enough imagination. The floor can be as a polymer in the form of a three-dimensional image, varnish or other more standard coating options. If you want a colored floor, then the use of colored dyes is allowed in its upper layer. The top coat will give the finished coating a glossy sheen, as well as improve durability and other characteristics. Experts do not recommend doing other work on the floor within a week after its installation.

All work costs associated with coverage are individual for each. Most often they depend on the quality of the mixture, its manufacturer, the format of the decorative coating. For example, 3d flooring with individual exclusive designs will cost much more than regular floors. Professionals charge a lot of money for their services. However, you can save money. The technology of installing a self-leveling floor on a wooden base is not complicated, and everyone can independently introduce a "zest" into their home, decorating it depending on their tastes and preferences.

Experts recommend using only a solution based on polymer resins in residential premises. If the floor was poured in a room with high humidity, then an epoxy type of flooring must be used. In all other rooms it is better to use a polyurethane floor.

In a wooden house, as a rule, a wooden floor is laid, by the way, you can order flooring here remont-kvartiri.info, but of course it is better to try to do it yourself. However, an excellent substitute can be a self-leveling floor, or rather one of its varieties - a leveling screed based on cement or gypsum, on which linoleum, laminate or any other coating can subsequently be laid, including another type of self-leveling floor - a finishing coating.

If the pouring is carried out correctly, the floor will level itself horizontally and quickly harden. Poor quality work leads to cracks in the floor, so you need to start with preliminary preparation of the place of work.

Such a floor is made on an old wooden floor, having previously sanded it with sandpaper. The skirting boards, if any, must be removed, all joints, cracks and possible holes must be vacuumed, after which the floor must be degreased again with a cleaning powder. Now you can seal up cracks and joints - for this, polyurethane foam and silicone joint sealant are suitable.

A day later, the next stage is performed - a primer. Its absence can lead to cracks in the self-leveling floor and even flaking. In addition, the primer acts as a waterproofing agent. Apply the primer in two layers using a roller or brush with natural bristles. After 5 hours after applying the primer, you can start laying the self-leveling floor, the maximum time between the primer and directly pouring is a day.

If the floors are wooden, it is advisable to cover the floor with a film that completely isolates the wood from the screed. Therefore, the film should not be damaged, all possible small cuts or holes, and the joints should be glued with tape.

But there is one more step between priming and laying floors - marking. Draw parallel lines, slightly less than the length of the floor and at regular intervals - about 30 cm - screw screws at a certain height. They will play the role of a level, since the self-leveling floor should have a thickness of about 3 cm.

The solution container must be large enough to stir the entire bag at once - at least 25 liters. If you prepare the solution in portions, you can get different characteristics due to the uneven distribution of chemical additives, which can affect the quality of the self-leveling floor.

The water for the solution must be clean and at room temperature. The self-leveling mixture is poured gradually, stirring with a mechanical drill attachment in the form of a mixer for several minutes. The mass must be homogeneous, the amount of water and mortar must be proportional, otherwise the floor will be less durable. The solution should stand for several minutes, after which it is stirred again. You need to use the solution within 20 minutes after mixing.

The mixture is poured in strips of height, according to the marking with self-tapping screws. In order for the composition to lay down evenly, and bubbles form on it, immediately after pouring it is necessary to roll it with a needle roller. If the room has a large volume, then it is better to fill it through one strip. After 5 hours, it is allowed to walk on the self-leveling floor, and laying linoleum or any other topcoat is allowed after twelve hours.

Do-it-yourself self-leveling flooring on a wooden base raises questions for many. Is it possible? How to do it? What is better to use as a base - plywood, chipboard, OSB or just boards? You will find all the answers you need in our article.

Self-leveling mixtures are compositions of cement or gypsum binder, mineral fillers and modifying polymer additives that improve the basic characteristics of the composition (curing rate, flexural strength, compression, and others).

Manufacturers usually indicate on the label that the mixtures are intended for leveling and repairing mineral-type substrates. These are cement-sand, anhydrite and other types of screeds, concrete slabs, underlying layers of crushed stone, slag, sand, bulk and natural soils (compacted).

And how to find out which compositions can be used on chipboard and OSB-board, wood and plywood. To do this, just look at the instructions. In the description for cement and cement-gypsum self-leveling self-leveling floors, these categories should be indicated among the bases.

For wood and sheet surfaces, the compositions are applied in a layer of 3 to 7 cm. Do not confuse with thin-layer gypsum and gypsum-cement leveling agents, the thickness of which does not exceed 0.2-3 cm.

Since wood and its derivatives (plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, OSB, HDF) have a high coefficient of seasonal variations in linear dimensions, manufacturers strongly recommend the use of separating layers (geotextile, PE-film) plus a damper around the perimeter. Simply put - to form a "floating" type floor.

How to choose the right multi-component mixture? See the composition. According to the well-established rule, in complex formulations, the component that is larger is indicated first. For example, a cement-gypsum self-leveling floor contains more than 50% Portland cement and less than 30% gypsum. Although professionals consider purely cement compositions to be the best option. The fact is that their strength is much higher than that of their counterparts, therefore, you can make a more durable and reliable self-leveling floor on a wooden base.

So, is it possible to do the alignment of the base from a board, chipboard, OSB with your own hands using ready-made compositions? The answer is yes, but with some caveats:

• When choosing a mixture, carefully read the instructions, in particular the sections "Composition" and "Types of bases".
• Form a "floating" floor using plastic sheeting and damper tape. In extreme cases, carefully treat the base with waterproofing compounds (locking primers, impregnators, mastics).

Do-it-yourself technology for self-leveling flooring on a wooden base

To pour the mixture, you will need the following set of tools and materials:

• Belt grinder, planetary (surface grinder) and / or angle grinder. It is better to rent professional series devices for 1-2 days. They are more powerful and work in several modes;
• Fine-grained sandpaper for finishing sanding (from 180 to 600 units), as well as a belt or attachments for a grinder (grain size - from 80 units);
• Plastic or wooden grater for grinding paper, manual scraper for small jobs;
• Construction vacuum cleaner;
• Hammer and nail puller;
• Sealant or repair putty for filling cracks, gaps;
• Waterproofing compounds or polyethylene film with a thickness of 150 microns;
• Damper tape;
• Roller or ridge for applying waterproofing coating;
• Wide spatula or squeegee;
• Plastic bucket or container for mixing the solution;
• Construction mixer or drill with attachment;
• Spot beacons, laser level or water level;
• Needle roller for rolling the mixture;
• Paint shoes, gloves.

To keep your hands from fatiguing too quickly, choose tools with ergonomic, rubberized grips. They are comfortable to work with and do not slip.

Self-leveling floor on plywood, chipboard or OSB-board should be done in 3 stages.

Stage 1. Wood surface preparation

When working, you must be guided by SP 29.13330.2011. The normative act requires the rolling stock to be poured onto an even (!), Solid and dry base. That is, without stains of oil, paints and varnishes, bitumen and other defects.

First, examine the floor. It should be in good condition: no rot, mold stains, paint residues, varnish, blackness, chips, "playing" boards. The floorboard, OSB and chipboard must be checked for differences between sheets or strips, gaps, creaks.

Removing old paintwork

For the painted surface, use old paintwork removers. Alternatively, use a hand grater and cycle to gently remove the coating. This will create a fairly rough base on which the waterproofing material will "lie" well and will not slip.

The easiest and most effective preparation method is to grind the entire surface with a planetary or belt unit. Corundum or diamond abrasive will remarkably eliminate all protruding irregularities (slabs, drops), heavy dirt. Manufacturers and technologists strongly recommend not to skip the stage of thorough leveling of the surface for pouring. This is necessary in order to create a single, monolithic cement sheet of the same thickness, and therefore identical strength, without weak areas over the entire area.

For the same purpose, pits, potholes, chips and cracks are filled with an elastic sealant for wood, putty compounds. Professional repairmen devote a lot of time to this, because they know: when rolling the mortar, the needle roller very often simply "tears" the mortar out of the recesses. Because of this, the frozen surface turns out to be uneven. Instead of putties, you can use a simpler option - sawdust mixed with PVA glue.

Plywood flooring on cracked boards.

Walk along the floor and mark where you need to additionally secure the base with screws or nails. Be sure to check every board or floorboard. The minimum spacing between fasteners is 40-50 cm.

If the boards are dry or too damaged, you can additionally sew on top of chipboard or plywood with a thickness of at least 14 mm. And to avoid squeaking between the sheets, pour finely crushed chalk into the gaps.

Do not forget to first remove the skirting boards, as well as protruding metal elements or hardware. "Drown" all fasteners with a hammer 0.5 cm into the floor. After finishing work, go through a construction vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth to remove dust and small sawdust.

Formation of a separating layer from polyethylene.

The next step is the formation of a separating waterproofing layer and its careful fixation. The film is laid over the entire surface with an institution on the walls by 10-15 cm.If strips are used, then they are overlapped by 8-12 cm.

Instead of polyethylene, the use of waterproofing compounds is allowed. And this must be done without fail. The tree and its derivatives do not like moisture, there is a risk of the formation of rotten areas under the ready-made bulk composition. In addition, untreated wood tends to "draw" water from the solution. As a result, the cement binder will not have enough liquid for ripening and full set of strength, and the floor will turn out to be loose, weak, in pits and bumps.

It is known that cement and wood have different thermal expansion coefficients. Therefore, so that in the future the finished base does not crack or damage the walls, be sure to glue the damper tape around the perimeter. It can be replaced with an isolon cut into narrow strips (IPE) with a thickness of 1-2 mm.

Stage 2. Preparation of bulk solution

Pour clean, no impurities, water into the container with a temperature of +5 to +25 ° C. Gently add the dry component, mix with a construction mixer for 5-7 minutes at a speed of up to 500 rpm. The composition should be homogeneous, without lumps and delamination.

Let the solution mature for 5-10 minutes, then stir again. The pot life of the solution is always indicated on the label. This is the time during which the mixture must be used. On average, this is 20-60 minutes.

Stage 3. Self-leveling self-leveling flooring

If necessary, mark the required level of the new cement layer along the walls or place reference beacons on the base.

Pouring a self-leveling self-leveling floor.

Pour the mixture gently onto the surface. Start from the far corner, gradually working towards the exit. Spread the mortar with a spatula or squeegee and roll with a needle roller to deaerate and compact the composition. After 7-14 days, the new flat floor will be ready for laying tiles, porcelain stoneware and other finishing flooring.

Summing up, we note: it does not matter of principle whether plywood or chipboard, HDF or OSB, boards or concrete acts as a base. It is the correct preparation that is important, namely the formation of an even, solid and dry base.

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