Lay the floor tiles on the wooden floor. How to lay tiles on a wooden floor: preparing the base if the floor is in normal condition, if there are any logs left, pour a screed onto chipboard or plywood

Porcelain tiles and tiles are traditionally considered the best flooring for toilets, hallways and baths. Place the tile on wooden floor much more difficult than on concrete. This guide covers options for subflooring and tongue-and-groove tiles.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor yourself is dangerous if you make mistakes. For the home handyman nuances should be taken into account:

The main problems of incompatibility of wood, tile adhesive and tiles are as follows:

the service life of plywood, tongue and groove, chipboard and OSB is lower than that of tiles, so the maintainability of the structure is very low;
internal stresses in wood cause warping and other deformations;
the rigidity of hardened tile adhesive and porcelain stoneware/tile cladding is by default higher than that of wood-containing slabs, tongue and groove edged boards;
in beam-based floors, a wooden subfloor is practically the only structural solution;
in the secondary housing stock, wooden floors are made with joists on top slab floor, in this case, you should simplify the design by dismantling the floorboards and joists, pouring screed for tiling.

The tiles are glued to the wooden floor using special compounds of increased plasticity. However, the developer will not receive 100% guarantees in any case:

the wood may dry out or warp, that is, change linear or spatial dimensions;
when a less durable base bends, a thin layer of tile adhesive will crack or split, and the tile will fly off.

To ensure the basic condition - the rigidity of the subfloor is higher than that of the finishing coating, several methods are used for the specified operating conditions:

Cladding technology

The most difficult method for gluing porcelain tiles to tongue and groove, the simplest is screeding with self-leveling flooring over sheets of fiber-board, which is easy to tile. It should be remembered that for the safety of rooms adjacent to the bathroom at the time of possible flooding, the height of the finishing coating in them should be higher, at least 2 cm.

The floor level in the bathroom should be 20 mm lower than in the corridor.

The conflict between wooden structures and ceramic cladding on top of them is caused by the following factors:

Therefore, the service life is sharply reduced load-bearing beams and wooden flooring.

Subfloor tiles

If the project includes beam floors, a lining is attached to these supporting structures at a lower level. They stack on it insulating materials and insulation as needed, then the subfloor is laid.

A budget option is flooring from edged boards, but in order to lay tiles on top of the subfloor, it is better to increase the construction budget and make the subfloor from board materials (plywood, OSB, DSP). The number of seams will be reduced, the stability of the geometry and the overall service life of the structure will increase.

Due to the high humidity of bathrooms, dry screed as a base for laying tiles on a wooden floor is not the best option:

expanded clay sand is highly hygroscopic, and cannot evaporate accumulated moisture through a waterproof lining (dangerous in case of leakage);
the structure has a significant weight, and accordingly puts a lot of stress on the wooden floor beams.

However, the practice of operating such structures exists, so you need to know how to properly make it yourself. The technique consists of several operations:

Advice! To correctly lay the flooring, you should take into account the placement of plumbing fixtures, the geometry of the room and the format of the tiles. Either a solid tile or pieces larger than half its size must be adjacent to the walls to ensure a normal bathroom interior.

Gluing with a special mixture

Most leading manufacturers of dry mixes have special compositions of increased elasticity for decorating wooden load-bearing structures tiles. The most popular products:

Lacrysil – packaged in red buckets;
Kreps – modification of Super;
Litocol – Litoflex K81 or Superflex K77;
Ceresite – mixture SM-17.

You can lay tiles on two-component mixtures based on polyurethane resins Bona R770, Utsin MK-92, Stauf PUK 440 or Kiilto Slim. They have high adhesion to both the bottom layer of wood and the top layer of ceramic tiles. However, the lifespan of these compositions is short; they should be diluted little by little in order to have time to develop a solution before setting begins.

Advice! Glue the tiles using regular tile adhesive It is not recommended for wood, as it is intended exclusively for mineral substrates.

The technology for laying tiles on a subfloor is as follows:

sealing the seams of plywood, chipboard, fiberboard with putty;
applying special tile adhesive to the base;
leveling the pastel with a notched spatula;
laying tiles using SVP systems or standard crosses.

Typically, solid cladding elements are installed according to the layout diagram. The next day the pieces are trimmed and laid. Then the seams are grouted and the baseboards are installed and attached to the walls.

The flatness and horizontality of the base is leveled with lags. Small defects are hidden with tile adhesive. There is no need to additionally putty the surface of the subfloor. First you need to get rid of creaks and replace beams/joists if necessary.

Unlike most wood-based boards used to make subfloors, OSB is coated with wax. This creates additional costs for the developer - the impregnation will have to be cleaned off with an angle grinder, the adhesion of the base to the tile adhesive artificially increased, and this layer will have to be reinforced with a polymer mesh. Therefore, it is worth choosing DSP/chipboard or plywood.

Tile on a tongue and groove board

The technology of decorating tongue and groove tiles is very complex due to the following nuances:

Advice! A layer of self-leveling floor, glue and cladding will dramatically increase the structural loads on the wooden floor beams. It is highly desirable to make a new calculation for the deflection and load-bearing capacity of structural elements using the method of rigidly clamped single-span beams.

Revision and strengthening

Before gluing tiles On a wooden floor, it is mandatory to inspect the load-bearing structures:

add joists to reduce the distance between them and/or increase the thickness of the floorboards;
eliminate creaking, tighten screws or add additional fasteners to the existing structure;
replace vapor barrier and insulation materials if necessary;
pull together the tongue-and-groove board to eliminate gaps;
remove the paintwork completely with a sander;
treat the tongue with an antiseptic or fire-bioprotectant (the composition additionally includes a fire retardant that increases fire resistance).

Initially, only the first, every fourth and last row of floorboards are attached to the joists. After tightening with self-tapping screws, all boards are fixed to the joists.

More details were said about laying tongue and groove boards.

Self-leveling floor

To level the boardwalk in wooden house Budget modifications of cement-based self-leveling floors are used. They have self-leveling properties, which makes working with these compounds easier. The main nuances of the technology are:

To walk on liquid solution, paint shoes with needle soles are used.

Unlike wet concrete screed, the minimum thickness of which is 3 cm, self-leveling floors can be leveled to zero. However, separating layers of hydro- and vapor barrier films, sound insulation and insulation are prohibited.

Decorating with tiles

Regardless of whether the tiles are laid on a wooden base or screed, you should adhere to standard cladding technology:

Advice! It is better to install floor plumbing fixtures on top of tiles. This will reduce the amount of trimming, provide an even, solid base, and preserve the seam pattern.

Since the height of the flooring in bathrooms is lower than in adjacent rooms, the tiles are laid close to door frame. There is no interface with other facing materials; no threshold or plinth is needed.

Thus, tiles in rooms with high humidity Can be laid independently, either on a wooden subfloor or on tongue and groove floorboards. In this case, the given recommendations of specialists should be followed to ensure maximum service life.

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The quality and service life of the floor covering largely depend on proper preparation grounds. According to the standard, the basis for ceramic tiles can only be a perfectly flat surface that can support not only its stable position, but also the weight of the ceramics.

For quite a long time it was perceived as a meaningless procedure. The fact is that wood is not inherently constant - under the influence of changes in temperature and moisture, it can contract or expand, change its size. And floor ceramics, in turn, are extremely sensitive to linear changes, so it will quickly become unusable. Chips and cracks will appear on its surface, the seams will begin to crumble, and the tile itself will gradually lag behind the base. But there are special schemes in construction with the help of which these materials can be “reconciled”.

Laying ceramics on a wooden base is considered inappropriate for a number of reasons.

A wooden floor, as noted above, is not static, and staticity is one of the main conditions for laying tiles.
With linear expansion, durable ceramic elements will chip easily.
The service life of tiles significantly exceeds that of boards and timber.
If you lay moisture-repellent floor ceramics (and this is exactly what is used in the bathhouse), then the wood underneath will not “breathe”, which is why the process of rotting will subsequently begin.
Finally, tile is a “cold” material, and wood is “warm”, and there is no particular point in combining them.

In addition, in terms of aesthetic indicators, wood may be inferior to tiles, although this point is not so important, since ceramics are used primarily not for the beauty of the patterns, but for sanitary and hygienic purposes. Laying tiles is advisable only in rooms with high levels of humidity to protect floors from the harmful effects of moisture (for example, in a shower, wooden bathhouse).

But whatever the reasons, there is a need for laying tiles on a wooden floor. In this case, it remains to find out how this can be done, as well as select the most suitable technology.

Important information! It is highly undesirable to lay ceramics on new wooden floor, because you need to wait until intensive shrinkage is completed. As a rule, this takes at least two to three years.

Stage one. Preparation of materials and equipment

First you need to purchase tiles. This issue has already been discussed in detail in the article on that, so today only the basic requirements will be briefly discussed. You should focus on the geometry and markings of the material.

Moisture absorption of tiles used for bathhouse floors should be minimal, since the material will be in permanent contact with water. The higher the porosity of the material, the more moisture it will absorb.
Wear resistance can be determined by the markings; the seller can help with this.
The quality of a tile is not difficult to determine - this can be done even by its external characteristics. This includes the plane, the geometry of the elements, as well as the alignment of the angles. Laying uneven ceramics is a difficult and time-consuming procedure, which is why it is so important to determine the quality of the material in advance. To do this, just take two products and place them face to face: if they fit tightly, and all the corners coincide, then this means that this is a really good tile and can be used for arranging flooring in a bathhouse.
The design of the ceramics is also important. The concept of design includes color, pattern, texture and shape.
Finally, do not forget about the purpose of the tiles. Floor tiles are significantly different from tiles intended for walls. The flooring material is more durable and resistant to mechanical stress, has a rough surface, and also has a low moisture absorption rate.

The selection of tile adhesive also plays an important role.

The range of adhesive compositions is huge, but they are all conditionally divided into two categories - dry and ready-made mixtures. Ready-made formulations are more expensive, but when diluting a dry mixture there is a risk of making a mistake with the proportions. When purchasing glue of a particular brand, you should pay attention to the presence of the following properties:

resistance to aggressive substances and temperature changes;
moisture resistance;
frost resistance (if the bathhouse will be used irregularly and the temperature there may drop below 0°C).

All of the above requirements are met by two-component adhesive compositions made on the basis of epoxy resin or polyurethane.

Important information! Such compositions are elastic only for 1 hour after dilution, and therefore it is recommended to dilute them in small portions.

The waterproof composition “Diola D-307”, intended for laying massive ceramic tiles, is excellent for baths.

Glue “Diola D-307”

It is important that the chosen adhesive is highly elastic. The fact is that the operating conditions in the bathhouse are not easy: heating and, as a consequence, expansion of materials alternates with cooling. And the higher the elasticity of the glue, the big differences will be able to withstand the floor covering.

If you plan to lay porcelain tiles, then the selected adhesive composition must have high adhesion - at least 28 kg/cm². This is explained by the significant weight of porcelain stoneware and almost zero hygroscopicity. If we talk about specific brands, then for laying tiles – both porcelain stoneware and ceramic – the composition “Ceresit SM 17” is often used.

Ceresit SM 11 is somewhat less popular, but if the SS-83 elasticizer is not added to this glue, then the adhesion will be significantly less than that of Ceresit SM 17.

Table. Tile adhesive consumption

Important information! Some builders refuse to use tile adhesive, preferring to use a homemade composition: sand + cement (proportions - 3:1) + PVA glue.

In addition, the work will require the following equipment:

tile cutter;
mounting level;
plastic crosses (to create the required gap of 2-4 mm between the tiles);
electric drill with mixer attachment;
notched spatula (tooth height should be approximately 8 mm).

Now you can proceed directly to the workflow.

Stage two. Preparing the base

A wooden floor is a multi-layer structure made entirely or partially from wood. These are not only boards, but also a system of beams and joists laid under the plank covering, so before starting work, all elements must be carefully inspected and checked. Often the preparation of the base for installation is carried out:

along the logs that remain after removing damaged or worn boards;
on flooring made of moisture-resistant plywood and installed on joists;
By plank floor, if it is still usable.

The condition of the floor can only affect the number of repair operations, but not the choice of one or another arrangement scheme.

Schemes of wooden bases with tiled coating

The fact is that ceramic tiles are attached to any surface according to a standard scheme, while the differences may lie solely in preparatory activities. However, the result should be smooth and smooth surface, able to withstand the weight of floor ceramics. There are several leveling methods suitable for plank floors in a bathhouse.

Method No. 1. Dry leveling

The most popular method of leveling plank floors is to create a static sub-layer consisting of plywood or any other moisture-resistant material produced in sheets. There are several methods of dry leveling, let's get acquainted with them.

The final stage of dry leveling should be the installation of sheets of plywood or particle boards.

Of course, pressed products wood waste or dowels are also subject to linear movement, but not as much as natural wood.

Ceramic tiles will be fixed on top of the leveling sheets not with ordinary tile adhesive, but with a special polyurethane-based compound.

Important information! Before laying ceramics, the plywood covering should be sanded along the seams. After this, the joints between the slabs must be filled with sealant (as an option, you can use the glue that was purchased to attach the tiles) and the surface must be treated with a primer compatible with the selected sealing material.

Among the advantages of this alignment method it is worth highlighting:

the possibility of increasing thermal insulation qualities by laying insulating material between the joists - mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, expanded clay, etc.;
high installation speed;
minimizing the load on the floor, which does not have the strength that reinforced concrete analogues have.

As for the disadvantages, there is only one: leveling will take a certain proportion of the height of the room. And there will be a difference between the finished area and the rest of the floor, from which you will subsequently have to make a step or threshold.

It is worth noting that according to building regulations the floor covering in hygienic rooms, which are the washing room and the steam room, must be lowered by at least 2-3 cm, otherwise in case of leaks, water will flood the adjacent rooms. With dry leveling technology (plus the thickness of the ceramic tiles), the surface will noticeably rise above the rest of the floor, so it is not advisable to use it (the technology) in a bathhouse.

Prices for plywood sheets

plywood sheet

Video – Adjustable floor

Method No. 2. Wet screed

This is a kind of simplified way of traditional floor leveling. The screed is poured in a “light” form due to the fact that the load-bearing capacity of the plank floor is clearly not enough for a full leveling layer.

Important information! There is another feature of this method - when pouring the solution, it is cut off from the walls and underlying foundation. In other words, it should be a kind of variation of a floating floor with a mandatory deformation gap along the entire perimeter.

With this scheme, the wooden elements of the structure will move under the influence of temperature changes, while the screed itself with the ceramics laid on top of it will remain motionless.

The thickness of the leveling layer should be 30 mm. It is undesirable to increase this thickness, since the weight will also increase along with it. Only minor deviations in one direction or another (a few millimeters) are allowed.

Prices for edge tape

edge tape

Video - How to level a wooden floor

The algorithm for pouring cement screed is given below.

Step 1. The floor is dismantled down to the timber in order to inspect all elements. If there is any doubt about the reliability of any element, it must be dismantled and replaced with a new one. If the distance between the logs exceeds 50 cm, then the system is strengthened by installing another beam. There should still be a slight gap (about 10 mm) between the ends of the joists and the walls. Upon completion of the check and repair work All wooden elements are treated with an antiseptic, then the floor is put back together.

Step 2. A flooring is constructed under the future screed. For this, you can use old boards (provided that they are still suitable for use) with a thickness of 40 mm. When fastening, a ventilation gap of 10 mm remains between the boards. A similar gap also remains when using unedged boards to replace defective floorboards. After all, if the boards are laid end to end, you will have to drill holes in them for ventilation.

Step 3. On top of the boards - perpendicular to their direction - quartered moisture-resistant plywood from 1.2 cm in thickness is attached (other boards made from pressed waste from the woodworking industry are also suitable). The material is attached in a similar way to brickwork using glue and galvanized self-tapping screws (the latter are screwed in increments of 20 cm). There remains a slight gap between the plates (about 3 mm); there should be no cross-shaped joints. Do not forget about the drain hole (if it is planned), which is often installed in the center of the room.

Step 4. The plywood flooring is covered with waterproofing material. For this, it is advisable to use glassine, paraffin or bitumen paper, although thick plastic film will also work. Roll insulation is laid overlapping (5-10 cm) and secured with tape to create a monolithic “carpet”.

Along the entire perimeter, the material should extend onto the walls by at least 10 cm; for convenience, it is also secured there with tape.

SNiP 3.04.01-87. Insulating and finishing coatings. File for download

Step 5. A damper tape 100 mm wide and approximately 8-10 mm thick is laid along the walls.

Step 6. A screed made from a ready-made leveling compound or a home-made leveling mixture is poured over the reinforcing mesh. To prepare the latter, sifted coarse sand is mixed with liquid glass in a 1:1 ratio. Water (1:4) is added to the dry mixture without any impurities or additives.

Before pouring, the drain hole is fenced with a small formwork. If the work is carried out in a washing room or steam room, then special guide rails can be installed to obtain the required slope in the direction of the drain. When the solution has completely hardened, you can proceed directly to laying the tiles.

Method No. 3. Express alignment

This method involves fastening sheets moisture-resistant plasterboard(GKVL) to the boardwalk using a two-component polyurethane-based adhesive composition. Due to its elasticity, the structure of the composition will not be disturbed even if the wood is deformed. Traditionally, before starting work, the structure is inspected and repaired.

Important information! It is advisable to lay drywall in two layers, and the seams of the first layer should not coincide with the seams of the second. This simple procedure will increase the hardness of the floor covering.

The plasterboard base is installed in the same way as in previous methods (using floating floor technology), so a technological gap should be left around the entire perimeter. The joints between the sheets are filled with sealant, after which the entire surface is primed with a universal primer. After laying the ceramic tiles, the gap is filled with the same sealant and covered with baseboards - this way moisture will not seep in and spoil the building material.

Video - Laying tiles on a plank floor

Each of the above methods of preparing the base may have to be adjusted taking into account the specifics of the room. In reality there are many more methods, but the principle is the same for everyone: the substrate should not interfere with the wooden base “breathing”, and it, in turn, should not destroy the rigid base with the tiles laid on top of it.

Stage three. Laying tiles in a bathhouse

The procedure is not much different from creating a tiled floor in other rooms, the only difference is the grout used and glue mixture. In addition, a slope towards the drain hole is necessary, but this is rather a feature of the floor itself; however, this should be kept in mind when finishing works. If the surface is not prepared, then to obtain a slope you will have to significantly increase the consumption of the adhesive composition. In the case of a dressing room, everything is much simpler: no slope is needed, the main thing is to maintain the horizontal and align the tiles relative to each other.

First you need to do a “try-on” to determine how best to lay the tiles. Trimming will have to be done in any case, although it is advisable to place the cut elements along the periphery of the room. The number of tiles that will be cut is determined in advance. If it is insignificant, then it is quite possible to use a tile cutter for cutting; It is more convenient to perform multiple cuttings with a grinder.

Algorithm further actions same as in case traditional technology styling

Step 1. In room correct form Laying should begin from the most visible corner. In case of incorrect geometry, you need to determine the middle by crossing the diagonals and start from there. To do this, the room is divided into 4 identical segments. And if we are talking about a steam room or a sink, then it is better to start installation from the drain hole - this will make it more convenient to maintain the slope.

Important information! Often, a building level is used to check the horizontality of the tiles, but for the steam room and sink, as noted above, the slope is important. There are two options here: either pull the rope, which will serve as a guide, or deliberately press down the required edge. Sometimes a special block is made for this purpose, having required slope. The block is placed on the tile, and on top of it is a building level.

Video - Laying tiles with a slope under the drain

Step 2. After this, glue is prepared in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. The composition hardens quickly, so you need to dilute it in small portions - about 1 m² each.

Important information! For a bath, it is better to use special cement glue rather than mastic. It is advisable to replace the usual grout with an elastic silicone compound that has a suitable color.

Step 3. Using a spatula, the diluted solution is applied to the surface.

Step 4. Tiles are laid on the floor treated with glue, and special plastic crosses are inserted into the joints (the latter, in extreme cases, can be replaced with ordinary matches). Levelness is periodically checked.

Important information! If a plinth is made from tiles, then it goes beyond the line of the lining (the latter seems to be superimposed on it). This way, moisture from the walls will not flow behind the baseboard.

Step 5. Adjustments and alignment can be done before the glue hardens. Longitudinal/transverse directions are corrected by slight shifts. “Sunken” elements are removed, the required amount of mixture is added, after which they are placed back. Use a damp rag to remove adhesive from the tile surface. After hardening, you can begin grouting.

Video - Laying tiles

Stage four. Grouting joints

After one or two days you can start grouting. To do this, you will need a special anti-fungal grout and an appropriate tool, i.e. a rubber spatula.

The success of installation and long-term service life of the floor covering is determined by 50% competent preparation grounds. According to clear construction regulations, only a perfectly leveled surface capable of “holding” the weight of the ceramics and its own stable position can become a worthy basis for tiles. Due to the fact that the “windy yoke” of wood is not inclined to remain constant, laying tiles on a wooden floor for a long time was considered a pointless procedure. However, there are construction schemes, the use of which can reconcile the “playful” nature of the building material with the rigid character of the tiled or clinker finish.

How to reconcile ceramics with a wooden base?

Due to the organic origin of wood, it cannot be classified as an “unshakable” building material. It shrinks from lack of moisture, swells from excess. A new wooden floor still settles for one and a half to two years after construction, and even after the period set for post-construction shrinkage has expired, movement still occurs. Movement imperceptible to the human eye negatively affects the solidity of the tiled surface. Structural connections are broken, tiles peel off and crack. As a result, not only all the work goes down the drain, but also a lot of money invested in finishing.

This means that the task of a home-grown finisher is to create a kind of damper layer that absorbs the characteristic movement wooden elements. The hard outer part of this layer must be turned towards the ceramic coating, and the elastic rear should be exposed to the shocks and blows of the wood. In addition, the wood hidden underneath needs to breathe, otherwise it will quickly rot, overcome by fungi and mold.

Preparatory stage - preparation of the base

By wooden floor we obviously mean not only plank floorboards visible from the outside. This is a multilayer structure consisting of powerful beams, lags laid “in a cross” along them and a substrate located under the boards. Before tiles are laid on a wooden floor, all elements of this complex system must be thoroughly inspected and tested.

Inspection of the wooden base

Since it is recommended to finish a new wood floor exclusively with tongue and groove boards, it is not difficult to guess that the floor will have to be dismantled for inspection. After all, the floor with wooden floorboards has already served its purpose. The absence of squeaks and wobbly boards is not an excuse for laziness. It is possible that the problem that is already brewing may simply not be felt.

Attention. If the joists were laid at intervals of more than 50 cm, the floor will need to be completely re-laid, otherwise it will not support the weight of the ceramic-finished screed.

Let's assume that the design completely satisfies us. Then we carry out inspection, repair and preparation in the following sequence:

remove the existing floor covering;
we check beams and joists, replace damaged or beginning to rot elements;
we check horizontality and carry out alignment;

Note. If it is impossible to raise the log in the usual way - by driving a wedge or placing scraps of lumber under it, the board must be sewn on top, then trim off the excess, focusing on the level readings.

generously treat all components of the wooden floor antiseptic impregnations, best with mastics specified in technical specifications maximum update frequency;
After the antifungal impregnation has dried, fill all the spaces between the joists with fine expanded clay. We fill in the insulation so that between the top line of the log and the surface of this heat insulator there remains 5 cm for ventilation;
We are preparing to re-lay the floorboards; they will serve as a rough base, since gypsum fiber board or waterproof plywood, despite the convincing assurances of the manufacturers, will not withstand intense exposure to moisture and repeated temperature fluctuations. Although dry leveling with plasterboard, chipboards or plywood is quite suitable for arranging a bathroom, a small bath kitchenette and a rest room;

Attention. If you want to install tiles on a wooden subfloor covered with used boards, you will need to remove the paint or varnish from the floorboards. Easier and cheaper to remove coating sandpaper or a sharp scraper. It can be quickly removed using a special chemical “removal” or a hair dryer, which softens the protective and decorative coating.

we lay back the boards that have become rough, leaving 3-5 mm gaps between the floorboards to ensure the possible expansion of the rough floor. We fasten the boards with galvanized self-tapping screws (one in each row joist, two in the outer ones);
if there are minor defects, holes from former fasteners or knots, they need to be puttied;
level the laid subfloor grinder or simply sand it if leveling is not required;
There should be a centimeter technological gap around the perimeter of the floor. We fill it with silicone foam or glue it with a polymer membrane tape (we bend a 30mm strip of membrane in half, attach one part to the lower edge of the wall, the other to the floor);
the gaps between the boards, between sheets of plywood, if it was used to level the floor in “dry” rooms, are also filled with foam or glued with membrane tapes;
To form a monolithic insulating layer, we treat the subfloor with heated drying oil or latex impregnation without the notorious savings.

Note. Instead of mastic, you can use parchment paper, bitumen or waxed roll analogue.

If it was decided to carry out waterproofing with drying oil or impregnation, and not with roll insulation, without waiting for them to dry completely, the prepared surface must be completely covered with a painting mesh. This will create a continuous insulating layer for laying tiles on a wooden floor, protecting against moisture and compensating for the effects of wood movement.

Lightweight screed device

Now you need to form a solid, rigid base for ceramic cladding floor. This will be a standard screed, but lighter and more sophisticated, since the wood does not need extra pressure at all.

The base for laying porcelain stoneware, clinker or tiles on a wooden floor can be arranged in three ways, these are:

Pouring a standard cement screed, the thickness of which does not exceed 3 cm. First, we lay it on top of the waterproofing and fasten it with screws to the rough base metal mesh, then fill in traditional cement mortar, which can be replaced with a polymer screed.

Instead of the compositions intended for forming screeds, we use KS glue with a base of liquid glass. A two-component one will do instead. polyurethane glue. After polymerization, it will also create an elastic layer that prevents cracking of the tiles due to the deformation vagaries of wood.

Note. You can make a solution with liquid glass for pouring screed yourself. To do this, you need to mix one part of water, two parts of washed and sifted coarse sand and two parts of liquid glass.

In the “dry” rooms of the bathhouse, you can do quick dry leveling DSP slabs or moisture-resistant drywall. We lay them “in a run” at an angle of 30º to the direction of laying the rough boards so that the butt seams do not coincide. The seams can be additionally glued with a compound designed for working with gypsum plasterboard.

Description of the tile laying process technology

Before gluing, we’ll do a preliminary “try-on” and figure out how to lay the tiles on the floor more beautifully. Trimming cannot be avoided, but it is better to place the trimmed parts in shaded areas and on the periphery of the room. Therefore, we will begin the preliminary layout from the central part and from the maximum illuminated area. We will immediately determine how many tiles will need to be cut and prepare them in advance. If you don’t need to cut a lot of tiles, just stock up on a tile cutter. For numerous cuttings of tiles, you will need a grinder.

Further steps for laying ceramic tiles on a properly prepared wooden floor are no different from standard methods, so:

To begin with, it is recommended to find the center by intersecting the diagonals. We divide the room into four equal segments, drawing directions with coated painter's cord along the walls or diagonally, depending on the chosen layout.
We prepare the glue in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. We do not spread it more than is required to finish 1 m² of floor.

Apply the solution with a spatula-comb to the floor surface. The size of the teeth of a comb tool depends on the dimensions of the ceramic elements. For large tiles 0.8 mm, for small ones less.
We lay the tiles on the surface treated with glue, inserting plastic crosses into the butt seams, or in extreme cases, matches.
We constantly control the longitudinal and transverse directions, as well as horizontality, by applying a block to several tiles.

Note. It is possible to level the masonry and correct defects only until the adhesive solution hardens. Longitudinal and transverse directions can be adjusted by slightly moving them. The “sunken” tiles need to be separated, the missing mortar added and laid again.

All adhesive “bloopers” from the surface of the tile must be removed with a damp rag, without waiting for the solution to set. After installation is completed and the glue has hardened, the seams are moistened and rubbed.

Ceramic tile flooring is a practical option for wet rooms. This is explained by its high performance characteristics - aesthetics, durability, resistance to moisture, rotting and deformation.

Homeowners often have doubts about whether they can install tiles over wood floors. Of course, it is possible, but with strict adherence to the installation technology of the facing material.

Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

Ceramic tiles and wood are practically incompatible materials, since wood, like any material of organic origin, dries out and becomes deformed over time. It can also swell and crack, even if it is well secured.

If you put a layer of tile adhesive, or make cement screed directly on the floorboard, then the movement of the wood will certainly lead to peeling of the tiles, cracks in the screed and, consequently, loss of money and time for the next floor repair.

The main task is to create a shock-absorbing layer between the wooden floor surface and the tiles that will compensate for the micro-movements of the base without transferring them to the layer of tile adhesive.

The demand and popularity of ceramic tiles allows them to be widely used for covering old wooden floors. Laying ceramics is allowed on following types grounds:

frame,
log,
lumber,
panel board

Laying tiles on a wooden floor requires taking into account the specifics of the surface, its high-quality preparation and compliance with installation technology.

Based on the results of the preliminary inspection wooden base the following activities are carried out:

The surface is in good operating condition without damage - floor preparation and tile laying are in progress.
The surface is damaged or deformed - installation is impossible. To begin with, a complete or partial restoration with replacement of damaged areas.

A damper layer is installed between the tile and the base to absorb possible movement of the floor. It also provides additional protection for the floor from increased moisture and prevents premature aging of the wood.

Difficulties in installing floor coverings

Neglecting the basic rules for preparing the base and laying floor ceramics can lead to:

To deformation, cracking and damage to the cladding as a result of wood movement.
To damage by rot and mold in rooms with high humidity.

In the process of installing tiles, novice craftsmen may encounter some difficulties:

Insufficient rigidity of the base due to the mobility of wood for fixing floor ceramics.
Insufficient oxygen access to the lower part of the floor structure.
Uneven distribution of maximum loads over the entire surface area.

Installation floor tiles in a wooden house after completion of construction, as well as the arrangement of floors with wooden floors, is not carried out. Work is possible only after complete shrinkage of the structure after 3-4 years. If the house is built of brick, reinforced concrete or cinder block, then flooring can be done at any time.

Features of laying tiles in the bathroom and kitchen

Often ceramic tiles used to protect wooden surfaces in rooms and buildings with high humidity - hallway, shower room, kitchen, corridor, bathroom, bathhouse and swimming pool.

The main difference is that in the bathroom, kitchen and other functional areas the air is oversaturated with moisture and steam. This requires additional waterproofing of the surface. For these purposes, PVC film or bitumen-based roofing felt is used.

An excellent alternative is moisture-resistant plasterboard and cement-bonded particle boards up to 2 cm thick. Waterproofing materials are mounted on pre-installed bitumen roofing felt and secured with self-tapping screws.

Important! The gaps between the waterproofing material and the walls are carefully filled with polyurethane foam. This will provide additional strength to the base.

The prepared surface is primed, after which the tiles are laid.

Preparing the wooden base

Before performing facing work, it is necessary to properly prepare wooden surface. The construction of a multi-layer floor pie will ensure solidity and ventilation of the base, reducing the load on the wood.

First, the wooden floor structure is dismantled. Deformed and damaged elements are replaced with new ones. If necessary, the lag laying step is reduced and the surface is leveled. Additionally, the structure is treated with antiseptic compounds.

Instructions for preliminary preparation wooden floor involves the following steps:

Stage 1. Dismantling the base and preliminary cleaning paint coating. Surface cleaning is carried out in three ways:

Chemical. Wood floor treatment chemical reagents, promoting the dissolution of varnishes and paints.
Teplov. Heating the base with construction hair dryer and dismantling the coating with a metal spatula.
Mechanical. Removing the coating using a power tool - an angle grinder with an attachment, a grinder or medium-grain paper.

Stage 2. Checking the condition of individual floor structural elements - joists and beams, replacing them with new parts and leveling the surface.

Stage 3. Antiseptic treatment surfaces. Wood is susceptible to high moisture and temperature changes, and therefore requires maximum protection from rot, deformation and mold. Treatment is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, observing the interval and intensity of application.

Stage 4. Arrangement of a thermal insulation layer. For insulation, fine expanded clay is used to fill the free space between the joists in the floor. To maintain natural ventilation, a 6 cm technological gap is provided between the lower part of the log and the insulation.

Stage 5. Installation of subfloor. For these purposes, a clean and level board is used, which is fixed to the base using galvanized screws. The surface is leveled thin layer putties. The distance from the wall to the floorboard is filled with foam.

Instead of a floorboard, 12 mm plywood or chipboard sheets can be used after pre-treatment with antiseptics.

Waterproofing layer under tiles

Careful waterproofing of the surface will ensure a long service life of the floor cladding. For these purposes, a practical, wear-resistant and reliable material is used that is resistant to moisture penetration and condensation.

The surface is treated with heated drying oil or latex-based impregnation, over which a special damper tape is laid overlapping. It provides the necessary shock absorption and compensation for movements of the wooden base.

Double-sided shock-absorbing tape is installed with the elastic side facing the wood and the durable side facing the tiles. An additional benefit of using a damper layer is to maintain natural ventilation and prevent moisture penetration.

Methods for leveling the floor surface

To lay tiles on a prepared wooden floor, you need to create a reliable monolithic surface. This can be done in three ways:

dry method,
method of pouring cement-concrete screed,
express way.

Dry leveling

A fairly popular method of obtaining a flat surface using moisture-resistant plasterboard, plywood and OSB boards. Similar materials They are characterized by increased strength and static properties, resistant to deformation and rotting.

Dry surface leveling is different:

Promotion thermal insulation characteristics grounds.
Simplicity and accessibility of the technological process of laying insulation.

Among the disadvantages are:

A significant rise in floor level, which is unacceptable for small rooms with low ceilings.
Visual difference between a smooth and untreated surface.

Dry leveling is carried out according to the following scheme:

Installation of thermal insulation, processing protective compounds and fixing the painting mesh with an overlap.
Filling with a leveling dry mixture of expanded clay chips, sand and other binding components. Uniform distribution of the mixture over the entire surface.
Installation of the selected material - plywood or slabs - in a checkerboard pattern so that the joints between the individual elements do not coincide.
Cleaning the surface and joints with a grinder and treating with a deep penetration primer mixture.

Wet screed

The method of leveling the surface is similar to creating a conventional screed for decorative finishing.

A floating screed is prepared from leveling polymer and cement-sand mixtures.

Its main advantage is the creation of a monolithic base that is resistant to movement of the wooden structure. And the disadvantages include: an increase in the height of the floor cake, significant labor and financial costs.

Construction work wet screed are performed in the following order:

Increasing the strength of the base. If the logs are located at intervals of 50 cm from each other, then it will be necessary to check and replace the deformed areas with reinforcement of the structure using bars.
Installation of intermediate flooring from boards. For these purposes, solid floorboards up to 4 cm thick are used, which are fixed to logs while maintaining technological gaps of 1 cm.
Installation of plywood or slabs up to 12 mm thick, similar to brickwork. Technological gaps between individual elements are 3 mm.
Installation of a waterproofing layer of polyethylene film or oiled paper over the entire surface of the floor, secured with double-sided tape.
Pouring the finished leveling mixture or cement-sand screed up to 10 mm high over the entire surface.

Express method of surface leveling

It is used to level surfaces that are in excellent operating condition or have minor visual defects. For work, moisture-resistant cardboard is used, which is fixed to the rough board using self-tapping screws or special polymer-based glue.

The main advantages of the method include simplicity and low cost of installation, and resistance to temperature changes in wood.

The process itself is performed as follows:

Before installing drywall, the horizontalness of the floorboards is checked. Differences are eliminated using improvised means: wax paper, roofing felt or fiberboard.
Drywall is mounted on the surface using brickwork in two layers. It is important to ensure that the joints between the rows do not match.
A gap is provided around the perimeter of the base, and the seams between the individual elements are filled with sealant.
The base is carefully treated with a primer mixture.
The gap is filled with polyurethane foam, after which the baseboard is installed.

Laying ceramic tiles

The technology for installing tiles on a wooden surface is quite simple to master on your own. First you need to prepare working tools and materials:

Ceramic tiles.
Crosses for tiles.
Tile adhesive.
Construction mixer.
A spatula with teeth.
Rubber hammer.
Tile cutter.
Level.

There are several options for installing tiles: rectangular and checkerboard, herringbone, diamond or pattern.

Important! First, the material is dry laid on the surface to select the optimal installation method.

The main stages of laying tiles on a prepared base:

Marking the perimeter and dividing the room into four zones diagonally.
Prepare the adhesive mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions per 1 square area.
Apply the mixture with a spatula and distribute it evenly on the surface for mounting two elements.
Installing the tiles on the adhesive mixture with soft tapping with a hammer to ensure that each element shrinks tightly. Placing crosses in the seam space to adjust the seam width.
Next, the material is laid to fill the entire floor surface.
Checking the quality of masonry using a building level.
After the adhesive mixture has completely dried, remove the crosses and grout the tile joints.

High-quality tiles laid on a wooden floor will provide a reliable and practical coating that will last for decades. The main thing in this matter is to follow the installation technology, as well as take into account professional advice and recommendations.

The level of comfort in our homes is constantly increasing. Even wooden houses must have bathrooms. What kind of floor should be in the bathroom? From tiles or porcelain stoneware. But to avoid problems, you need to know how to lay tiles on a wooden floor. There are techniques and rules that allow tile and wood to coexist peacefully.

Floor tiles are one of the most convenient coverings for the bathroom, toilet, and kitchen. Some people prefer this covering on the hallway floor. Owners of floor joists often wonder whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. Can. There are materials that make the idea real, but first let’s look at the difficulties that can be expected.

If you do not take into account the mobility of the floor, the tiles may bounce off

Mobility of a wooden floor

To decide whether it is possible to lay tiles on your wooden floor, you need to inspect the joists and boards. If the logs and boards are in in good condition, the floor under your feet does not “walk”, tiles or porcelain tiles will also lie without problems. Is there a slight deflection? Perhaps it will be eliminated sheet material, which is still placed on the boards under the tiles. If the deflection is large, it is better not to take risks. Still, the materials cost a lot.

If the floorboards are in poor condition or they are sagging, and the joists will last for another thirty years, there are three options:

The first option is the least realistic - this is an almost complete overhaul of the floor. In this case, it’s better to do it. All the same, after all, the floor was practically dismantled, and a cement base is always more reliable, and not only for tiles. And you can make a warm floor. Just one note. A screed can be made if the load-bearing capacity of the floor or foundation or both allows it.

If the logs are no good and the board is no good, it is best to make a screed. You can have a lightweight one, or you can have a regular one. You need to look, as we have already said, at the load-bearing capacity, but laying tiles on rotten joists and boards will not lead to anything good.

Different temperature expansions

Wooden floors and tiles or porcelain tiles have different sizes temperature and humidity deformations. To put it simply, when temperature and humidity change, they change their sizes in different ways. Wood changes a lot, ceramics - only slightly. The difference is significant. If you do not pay attention to this, the tiles will crack or cracks will appear in the seams. But there are methods for laying tiles on an unstable base and materials that can compensate for this difference.

This is how the problem of different expansion of wooden floors and ceramics is solved. Let's say right away that tile adhesive and grout for wood floors are more expensive than usual. This is due to the polymers that give elasticity to the compounds. But save and buy regular glue obviously not worth it.

Will the floor rot under the tiles?

At high humidity the wood rots. While the wood is open, covered only with paint or varnish, moisture evaporates. But if there are ways for moisture to leak in, you can’t lock it in the floor. It is necessary to eliminate the sources, dry the structure and only after that, lay the tiles on a dry floor.

Wooden flooring must be done correctly. Then the tiles in the bathroom, kitchen, hallway can be laid without problems

If you are going to lay tiles on a plank floor in an apartment, and it is on the second floor or higher, there are no questions at all. Inspect the joists and boards, if everything is fine, then continue using the chosen technology. How to properly lay tiles on a wooden floor in a house? If the floor is ventilated, has been sitting for several years and nothing has happened to it, the insulation (if any) is dry, the boards do not rot, the house is dry... There are also no problems. You can lay tiles on the sheet material fixed to the boards with glue. Just like that, without much fuss.

If problems are found during the audit, or there is high humidity in the house, this problem is solved first. Then, after time has passed, you can lay the tiles on the floor.

Dry screed on wooden floors under ceramic tiles

Proper laying of tiles must meet several conditions. First. The cake must be thought out so that the boards and insulation (if any) are not in a humid environment. That is, if there is a possibility of increased humidity, care must be taken to ensure that the moisture is removed. Second. Different thermal expansions must be compensated for. For this purpose, special tile adhesive and grout are used for wood and unstable substrates.

To minimize the possibility of cracks in the tiles, it is better to take tiles that are not too large in size. Perfect option- mosaic. When laying, do not forget about the technological gap around the perimeter of the room - the coating should not rest against the walls.

With or without waterproofing

If you are going to lay tiles on a wooden floor in the bathroom, waterproofing is a must. It is placed on leveled and prepared boards, under sheet material. The waterproofing is laid out over the entire area, extending onto the walls, where it is hermetically sealed. Moreover, the material must simultaneously perform the functions of a vapor barrier. That is, it should not allow water and water vapor to pass through. Most cheap option— polyethylene film with a density of 200 kg/m². But it should be laid in two layers, not in one. They sell it by the sleeve, so they put it away. Without cutting. You can also use other materials. There are many different ones, but keep in mind that it should be a vapor barrier.

If everything is done exactly like this, then you can simply and without any fuss lay two layers of sheet material on top of the boards, and tiles on top of it

There is no need for waterproofing in the corridor. There's no need to put it there. There is no such amount of water that can cause any harm. Better grout for seams, use hydrophobic (which does not allow water to pass through). It will be better and more reliable.

In the kitchen, installing a hydro-vapor barrier is desirable. But you have to look at how the floor is designed. If it is without insulation and there is a well-ventilated underground underneath, it is possible without waterproofing. Take waterproof sheet material, go through the joints of the sheets with silicone, use hydrophobic tile adhesive and seal the seams with hydrophobic putty. This will be sufficient even for short-term emergencies.

Pie for laying tiles with waterproofing and mineral wool insulation

If the wooden floor is insulated mineral wool, you need to take measures to prevent water from getting into it, but you also need to organize everything so that moisture is not trapped inside the insulation. This means that in each specific case a different solution is chosen. But correct sequence layers is like this (from bottom to top):

With this device, it turns out that moisture that somehow got into the insulation will be removed through a vapor-permeable membrane from below. This arrangement is typical for ventilated subfloors. If you don’t know how to lay tiles on the wooden floor of the second floor, a counter-lattice and lining of the first floor ceiling will be added below.

How to properly lay tiles on a wooden floor

First you need to level the floor as much as possible. Old boards can bend and it is advisable to remove these irregularities. Sanding, plane, putty. Than there is a possibility. There are ways to lay it this way, but it’s safer to lay it on a flat base. Less problems will be during operation.

It is advisable to level the boards as much as possible so that the sheets lie flat

The second stage is to additionally secure the boards with self-tapping screws to the joists. This will reduce the possibility of sagging. It will turn out almost monolithic slab. If only some boards sag, you can connect them to neighboring ones by screwing in screws at an angle or driving in nails.

What to make a base for tiles from

Sheet material is placed on cleaned and leveled boards in two layers, spacing the seams. Everyone chooses what they like. Most often used:

Plywood remains the most popular. It is the most durable and does not bend, but its cost is now inhumane. There are cheaper materials - the same, gypsum board, . They have their drawbacks, but they are also used. A combination of materials can be used. For example, for rigidity, lay plywood on the boards, and on it - DSP. This cement-based material is good for tile adhesive. But if you lay it directly on the boards, over time it will repeat the shape of the base. If the floor is uneven, the same unevenness will appear on the sheet. If there is a tile on it, it will either break or bounce off. So this combination - plywood + fiberboard - is more optimal in terms of costs and characteristics.

How to attach sheets to the floor

There are three options for attaching sheet material to the floor:

They are simply laid on a flat plank floor and secured with self-tapping screws.
Curved floors require a different approach. The sheet material is placed on polyurethane foam. You only need a little bit of it. It will even out the unevenness.

Sheets can be nailed or screwed onto fairly even boards.
self-tapping screws

Instead of foam, you can use tile adhesive. Apply to the floor, spread with a comb (notched trowel). Under the weight of the slab, the glue will be redistributed, filling the gaps. The sheets of the second row are laid at intervals between the seams (so that the seams are shifted at least 50 cm). They are attached to the first one with self-tapping screws. You can also immediately use foam and screws. They do this, but there is no particular need for it.

Rules for laying sheet material

In order for the flooring to be sufficiently strong and reliable, the sheet material is laid in two layers. The sheets are cut so that the seams in the layers are spaced 50 cm apart. This will reduce the likelihood of through cracks and prevent water (in case it somehow gets into the gap) from getting onto the boards. The sheets are not placed end to end, but leaving gaps of 3-7 mm. These are so-called expansion joints. The width of the seam depends on the type of material. The joints under the tiles do not need to be puttied, but if you want to achieve complete tightness, fill them with elastic sealant.

When laying sheets around the perimeter of the room - between the flooring and the walls - leave a gap of at least 1 cm wide. This is a compensation gap. It will allow the coating to change size with changes in humidity and temperature. To prevent the gap from remaining empty (this reduces sound insulation), it is filled with foamed polyethylene (used as a backing for laminate). The height of the damper tape is not lower than the level of the tile. The tiles should not rest against the walls. If you forget about it, it will fly off.

Laying tiles on a floor covered with sheet material

Before you put it ceramic tiles, be puzzled by the choice of tile adhesive. There is tile adhesive for unstable substrates. This is just wood. It differs from the usual composition in that it remains elastic.

If you are laying tiles on a wooden floor in the bathroom, make sure that the adhesive has improved water-repellent characteristics. Paired with hydrophobic grout for joints, such a coating will be completely waterproof. Otherwise, laying tiles is no different. The whole process is identical to laying tiles on concrete.

There are, perhaps, a couple of points. But this is not necessary, but from the “how to do better” series. First, it will be easier if the tiles are small in size. Smaller tiles are less likely to cause cracks. There are more seams, they remain elastic. All advances are compensated at their expense. Mosaic is ideal in this regard, but not everyone can afford the price. Second. If you do use large-format tiles, when designing the tile layout, try to select it so that the seams of the tiles are above the seams in the base. It is desirable that the spacing of the seams be no more than 5 cm. This, again, will ensure that the seam “plays out” and the tile remains intact.

TsPS screed

If the bearing capacity of the foundation or floor allows, you can pour a screed on top of the wooden floor, and then lay tiles on it. Why is this tile laying technology better? The fact that all movements of the floor are taken over by the screed. It also ensures tightness. The concrete is simply laid with tiles as usual. Using regular tile adhesive.

Screed on a wooden floor under tiles - if beams and boards allow

If the bearing capacity of the foundation, joists and boards allows, a hydro-vapor barrier is laid on the floor surface. It must be placed on the walls and secured there. On this layer you can lay the same PVC film in two layers, but it will most likely tear. But torn insulation doesn't work. Therefore, it is better to take something more durable. Membranes or reinforced films are much stronger, although more expensive. But redoing the entire floor because it will rot will cost more.

When laying waterproofing in the corners, where the material is lifted onto the wall, make small folds. This margin will not allow the film/membrane to stretch. This will increase the likelihood that it will remain intact. A reinforcing metal mesh is laid on the laid waterproofing. For a regular floor, 100*100*3 mm is suitable. The mesh is welded, not chain-link. You don't want to have a trampoline instead of a floor. Therefore, you definitely need a welded one - with welded joints. The mesh sheets are laid overlapping one another by 15-20 cm. It is not necessary to tie them together.

Next, the beacons are placed and the screed is poured or laid. Wet or semi-dry - your choice. Minimum thickness 35-40 mm. By the way, you can lay heated floor pipes in this screed, but then you will need to lay a layer of insulation under the film.

The composition of the mortar for floor screed under tiles is standard. Cement + 4 parts sand + water. To reduce cracking, reinforcing fiber is added. This combination - reinforcement in the screed and micro-fiber reinforcement - increases the likelihood that the tiles on the floor in a wooden house will lie without problems. After the screed has matured - after 28 days - you can lay the tiles. There are no restrictions here. All movements will be leveled by a concrete slab.