Bathhouse projects with a relaxation room. Bathhouse projects with barbecue are a great opportunity to diversify your leisure time

Bathhouse with a terrace, a separate relaxation room and a barbecue area - functional area for complete relaxation. She may have different size, be built of timber or brick. Your attention - various projects such buildings with photos.

Features of the 4 in 1 zone: sauna, terrace, relaxation room and barbecue

When planning to set up a place to relax in their garden plot, many owners dream of making it not only comfortable, but also universal. After all, it should be to the liking of all family members. And you also need to please the guests, fully providing them with entertainment and complete relaxation in the fresh air. Project of a bathhouse with a terrace and barbecue, as well as a relaxation room - good option for such a case. It allows you to realize various ideas and combine them into your own mini-dacha complex.

Plan of a bathhouse with a terrace

There are many advantages to such a 4 in 1 project:

  1. Saving territory. There is no need to waste space not only on the buildings themselves, but also on the paths connecting one building to another.
  2. Reduced construction costs. For example, the wall of a bathhouse can simultaneously be the wall of a terrace. In addition, one roof will cost much less than several.
  3. Organization of comprehensive recreation. You can take a steam bath and then cook dinner using the barbecue - everything is nearby.
  4. Single style. Often, when constructing individual buildings, owners forget that all buildings must be in harmony with each other. In a combined project, this design issue is resolved very simply.

Types of bathhouse projects with a relaxation area

The choice of project is largely due to the size land plot. For example, classic version bathhouses with a terrace measuring 6 x 9 m are suitable for owners large area. It will accommodate not only the whole family, but also a large group of friends. In this case, a common foundation is provided for the bathhouse and terrace. If you make the building two-story, then you can place a steam room and barbecue below, and arrange a guest lounge on the second floor.

If you want to attach a bathhouse to your house, use the 6 x 6 project. Thanks to its proportions, it will fit perfectly into the design of any area. This way you will significantly expand the area of ​​the house and get a cozy open place to relax. It is ideal for enjoying in any weather. fresh air straight from the cottage.

Bathhouse with veranda

Compact on the outside, but roomy on the inside, this is a corner bathhouse with a terrace. Often such a project is used in cases where it is necessary to locate a recreation area in close proximity to the house. The terrace adjacent to the cottage can be square or rectangular. However, photos of finished baths confirm that it is the corner platform that allows you to give the entire structure a complete look, as well as effectively manage the territory personal plot. Everything can be placed on the ground floor.

Advice. Two-story buildings are optimal if you want to properly plan the area of ​​your land plot and intend to continue construction. For example, add another guest room over time.

Nowadays, entire bathhouse cottages with various extensions, including a terrace, are also popular. You can set up a gazebo on it, playground for children, place for barbecue or dancing. It is convenient to receive and accommodate guests, organize holidays and simply live in the fresh air. To prevent mosquitoes from annoying you in the summer, hang nets or decorative curtains.

Construction planning: timber or brick. Which foundation is better

To implement the design of a bathhouse with a terrace and barbecue that you like, you need to think carefully about what material to build from. Perhaps one of the best is timber. Its advantages are obvious:

  • holds heat well, so additional insulation is not required;
  • creates an inimitable “bathhouse” atmosphere, because for a long time people have been steaming in wooden buildings;
  • regulates indoor humidity. This is possible due to the fact that wood “breathes”;
  • allows you to implement non-standard architectural solutions;
  • environmental friendliness. It has been proven that wood enhances healing effect baths

Restroom

Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting the susceptibility of timber to mold, as well as its low reliability in terms of fire safety.

Attention! Glued laminated timber and logs are different Construction Materials. The first one is cheaper. Logs can be rounded, planed, etc.

Brick baths are less fire hazardous, but they take longer to warm up, consuming a large number of fuel. In addition, high-quality ventilation is required in such buildings. Without it, condensation collects inside, which can cause mold and mildew. Speaking about the advantages of brick, it is necessary to note its environmental friendliness, long service life and the ability to erect a building of almost any shape, which is proven by photos of already erected buildings. It is important that the cost of brick baths is lower than wooden ones, and they do not require external finishing.

Advice. To build a bathhouse, you can take other materials, for example, gas silicate blocks. Popular and frame houses, which are inexpensive and can be built quickly.

Depending on the project and the building material for its implementation, the basis of the bathhouse is planned - the foundation. He can be:

  1. Screw. For it, special piles are used on which the structure will stand. Suitable for almost all soil types. Does not require preparatory earthworks. It can be built quickly (in 1-3 days) and at any time of the year.
  2. Columnar. This is the simplest of all types of foundation, and also the most economical. It can be used to build a small bathhouse with a terrace.
  3. Tape. The work on its construction is considered quite labor-intensive, so it is advisable to resort to this option in the following cases:
  • if your site has complex soil - for example, clay or sand;
  • It is planned to build a two-story bathhouse.

Attention! Since a bathhouse is heavier than a terrace, different foundations are usually laid under them.

Tips for designing a recreation area with a sauna, barbecue and terrace

  • When planning construction, consider the main wind direction. The bathhouse should cover the terrace from drafts. This is also necessary in order to correctly position the barbecue - it is not very convenient when smoke flies towards vacationers.
  • Decide why you need a terrace. If in order to hide on a hot day from sun rays, don't choose the south. If you are going to sunbathe, design the location of the terrace on the sunny side.

Bathhouse with barbecue

  • The terrace in its classic form does not have a roof, but for convenience and protection from bad weather it can be covered, for example, with transparent polycarbonate.
  • Regardless of what area it will have ready sauna, you need to provide for the location of 3 separate rooms: a locker room, a shower and a steam room.
  • To build a barbecue, you should use refractory bricks. In addition, for better fire safety, you can lay out the area around it with ceramic or stone tiles. It is also necessary to make a separate chimney for the barbecue.
  • If you plan to use a sauna with a terrace all year round, take care of heating.

Bathhouse with barbecue area: video

Bathhouse with relaxation area: photo


Thanks to modern building materials, developers are able to build various options one-story baths with a veranda.


The buildings differ in:

  • type of foundation. For such baths you can use screw piles, columnar ones, columnar ones with grillages and shallow ones ribbon types foundations;

    Types of building foundations
    Common types of foundations
    Types of columnar foundation

  • construction material. Baths can be built from natural sawn, profiled, glued and rounded timber, cement foam blocks and bricks. It is allowed to use sandwich panels and frame construction;

    Log bathhouse
    Bathhouse made of profiled timber

    Brick bathhouse
    Bathhouse made of blocks

    Bathhouse made of sandwich panels

  • type of roof and roofing coverings. The roof can be gable, flat or pitched. Covered with all types roofing materials– from ordinary asbestos-cement slate and metal roofing coverings to materials based on modified bitumen;

    Types of roofs by shape

  • according to the architectural features of buildings. Detached, attached, with verandas, with attics, with swimming pools, etc.

    Bathhouse extension made of timber
    Bathhouse with gazebo

    Bathhouse with summer kitchen

We no longer remember the differences in stove designs, the presence of autonomous heating, and drainage systems. In one article, it is not even theoretically possible to consider all the features of the construction of each bathhouse option; we will consider only one option: a bathhouse made of foam blocks.

When drawing up a project, it is not necessary to contact specialized companies, this is very expensive. It is enough to get acquainted with numerous offers on the Internet and, based on the information received, choose for yourself best option or create your own individual project. By what criteria do you choose (or draw up) a bathhouse project?

Number of family members. For a family of three to four people, it is enough to have a bathhouse measuring ≈10÷16 m2. Such dimensions allow you to place inside a quite comfortable washing room (≈4 m2), steam room (≈4 m2) and a relaxation room (≈3 m2).

Bathhouse project
Layout option

If your family is larger or you plan to wash in a bathhouse with friends, a bathhouse option with dimensions of ≈20÷30 m2 is suitable. These dimensions make it possible to significantly increase the relaxation room (up to ≈10 m2), the size of the steam room and washing room to 6 m2, and make a separate vestibule at the entrance doors.

It is advisable to make a veranda (terrace) at the same time. What is the difference between a veranda and a terrace? The veranda is glazed and can be insulated. We would not recommend making a veranda; its role is perfectly fulfilled by the rest room. And the terrace will allow you to enjoy fresh air after water treatments. But we only advise, the final decision is yours.

Glazed veranda

Elite bathhouse. Here the imagination is limited only by the capacity of the wallet. You can make swimming pools, a separate Russian steam room and Finnish sauna, recreation areas and GYM's. Such projects cannot be done on your own; you should contact specialized design companies.

Elite bathhouse. Steam room with lighting
Swimming pool in the bathhouse

Luxurious relaxation room in the bathhouse

We will focus only on one fairly simple option baths with a veranda made of foam blocks.

Construction technology for a bathhouse with a veranda made of foam blocks

Of all possible options building structures we choose the simplest one.

  1. Shallow strip foundation and drainage system.
  2. Gable sloping roof under the bathhouse and veranda, covered with metal profiles.
  3. Interior decoration and floors are made of natural lining and planed boards.
  4. Homemade metal stove.
  5. Exterior finishing – painting with durable paints.

Stages of work

First you need to make a calculation of the required materials. What will you need?

When making concrete, you will need a certain grade of cement, sand and gravel. To familiarize yourself with the recommended proportions, study the proposed table No. 1.

To calculate the amount of concrete ingredients, use table No. 2

When making concrete with your own hands, no one weighs the ingredients to the nearest kilogram; these standards are used industrial enterprises for writing off materials.

For our version of the bathhouse, concrete grade 200 is sufficient; it can withstand a load of ≈200 kg/cm2.

Calculate the volume of your foundation and the volume of the foundation for the furnace (if it has one), this will give you the opportunity to determine the amount of all components of concrete. The resulting value needs to be increased by about ten percent, which will cover possible errors and waste.

For the box you need to purchase foam blocks. To lay one cubic meter of blocks, approximately 0.2 m3 of cement-sand mortar is required, keep this in mind. To calculate the number of blocks you need to divide one cubic meter for the volume of one block. For example, with a block size of 200×300×600 mm, its volume is 0.036 m3, therefore, for a cubic meter of masonry you will need 27.8 pieces. (1:0.036).



Using the same method, count the number of floorboards, ceiling and wall boards, plastic linings and roofing coverings. Determine the number and length of floor and ceiling beams measuring 100x100 mm, rafter boards 50x100 mm, laths 20x50 mm. The calculations of the amount of roofing materials, insulation and waterproofing materials are no different.

Of course, you need to purchase nails and screws, baseboards, trim, doors and windows. All calculations have been made, materials have been purchased - we can begin. construction works.

Foundation

We have already decided that we are choosing a shallow-depth tape option.

No.Description of workIllustration
Step 1.Site preparation. The site should be leveled as much as possible along the perimeter of the foundation and the top fertile layer should be removed. Don’t be lazy to level the ground, otherwise you will have to increase the cost of materials and time to build the foundation.
Step 2.Marking. Very important stage, mistakes made are very difficult to correct, and in many cases impossible. Prepare wooden pegs, tape measure and rope. Drive according to size external parties foundation pegs and check the corners. They should all be exactly 90°. Pre-mark according to the template. You need to check using diagonals - the length of the two diagonals must be the same. The width of the foundation in our case is 25 centimeters.
Step 3.Digging a trench. A depth of 60 centimeters is sufficient; to prevent heaving of the earth at the bottom, you need to make a sand cushion 15÷20 cm thick. This is much easier than digging a foundation to a freezing depth; in cold climates it can reach more than two meters. The sand will compensate for the swelling of the frozen ground, and the foundation will be stable. If you are breading an oven with a foundation, prepare a hole for it.
Step 4.Pouring concrete into the ground. If the soil on your site is dense and the trenches do not collapse, great, concrete can be poured without formwork. If there is sand, you will have to make formwork not only above the ground, but also in the trench. This must be immediately foreseen and the width of the foundation adjusted. The formwork is made from sections, used boards, sheet plywood or moisture resistant boards OSB. It is very important - fasten the formwork in such a way that it can be easily dismantled later.

It’s ideal to pour the concrete all at once; if that doesn’t work, do the pouring in stages. The main thing is that the concrete is laid in a layer of equal thickness along the entire perimeter, otherwise the strength of the foundation will deteriorate sharply. Don’t forget about tamping; it can be done with special vibrators or homemade “pushes”.

Concrete should be reinforced with construction reinforcement of a periodic profile Ø 5÷8 mm.

Reinforcement - diagram




Very important: the distance of the reinforcement box between the formwork must be at least 5 centimeters; lift it from the bottom using stones. The reinforcement is tied with wire.

Reinforcement - photo






CONCRETE AND REINFORCED CONCRETE STRUCTURES. BASIC PROVISIONS. SNiP 52-01-2003. Moscow 2004 File for download

Very important. Do not forget to make vents for floor ventilation, without functional natural ventilation the boards will rot very quickly. To do this, insert pieces of pipe into the formwork or make wooden boxes. The distance between the vents in opposite walls is approximately 1.5÷2 meters. At the same time, leave a hole in one of the corners to drain water.




Production and installation of formwork

The height of the formwork should be slightly greater than the height of the foundation, install the formwork level, securely fasten all the panels to the ground. Remember that it is very difficult to correct a “bulging” foundation.

The work is carried out in the same way as pouring concrete into the ground. With one difference - carefully check the horizontal position, construction standards allow horizontal deviation of no more than one centimeter per five linear meters. In most cases, the surface of the tape will have to be trimmed again. Allow the concrete to cure for at least two weeks, then remove the formwork.

The foundation is ready, you can start laying blocks.

Block laying

Step 1. Marking. Before marking, place two layers of waterproofing on the foundation. In this case, it does not so much protect the blocks from destruction (they are not afraid high humidity) as everybody wooden elements, adjacent to them. Make precise markings of doorways and joints interior walls with external ones. Further very important point– placement of corner lighthouse blocks.






We lay a block in all corners of the building without mortar, level them with maximum accuracy, check the distance between them along the perimeter and always check the corners with a rope. We have already described how to check angles above. The maximum discrepancy between the lengths of the diagonals and the perimeter of the building should not exceed two centimeters; this indicator can be eliminated during laying of the walls. Now you can put the lighthouse blocks on the solution.


Laying the first row of blocks - the result

Step 2. Carefully drive nails into the lighthouse blocks and stretch the rope between them. This will be a template line for height and linearity for the next row of blocks. The rows of blocks should hang slightly over the base, so it will be easier to do later finishing work on the base. Apply a solution 1.5÷2 cm thick to the foundation, then adjust the length of the applied section taking into account the speed of your masonry.

Keep in mind that foam concrete blocks absorb water very quickly, all work should be done quickly. The first row is laid with special care. Firstly, this series is considered basic. Secondly, you do not yet have enough experience to use the “masterful precision eye” instead of the level. The length of the wall is rarely a multiple of the length of the blocks; they will have to be trimmed; use an ordinary hacksaw for this; foam blocks can be cut perfectly with such a simple tool.

Step 3. Do not forget, when laying the first row of façade walls, to begin laying the first row of internal walls with a tie.

Step 4. Carefully place 3-4 rows of blocks in the corners of the bathhouse and at the junction of the walls, and check their position several times. Next, you will fix a rope at the joints of each row and continue laying along it. In the future, all operations must be repeated: again lay several rows in the corners, pull the rope and build walls.




Step 5. Window openings. When the height of the walls is equal to the height of the windows or doors, make markings along their width and continue laying, taking into account the height of the windows. As a lintel, you can use a metal corner of 50÷50 mm or more, or metal reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm or more, or make a concrete lintel. The ends of the lintels should extend approximately 25÷30 cm onto the walls on each side of the window or doorway.










Step 6. The last two rows need to be reinforced with construction reinforcement Ø 10 mm; lay the rods in two to three rows at an equal distance. Not reaching one row before the end of the masonry, lay ceiling beams 50÷100 mm. Due to attic space will not be used for ceiling You can use 50×100 mm boards; the ends of the boards that rest on the wall must be insulated with roofing felt. The distance between the beams is 1÷1.5 meters. Place the last top row of blocks. At this point, the box is almost ready; the gables will be walled up after the roof is erected. Windows will need to be made in the gables.








Now you can start building the roof. Ours will have a gable roof with an overhang for the veranda.

Video - Laying floor joists

Video - Rough ceiling

Video - Construction of a bathhouse from foam blocks

Roof

The bathhouse is small in size, we choose one of the most simple options rafter system - hanging.

Hanging rafters— calculations

Do not forget that the roof will have an overhang; before installing it, you need to fix the vertical supports for the veranda. Measure their exact length and secure it to the foundation using metal corners, check the height again and adjust if necessary. Check horizontality with a rope or hydraulic level.

An example of constructing a veranda - a pillar made of timber

In order for the work to be carried out quickly and safely, it is necessary to lay a temporary (rough) coating on the existing ceiling beams. Use any boards for this; anyway, they will need to be removed later to insulate the bathhouse ceiling. But don’t be too “hacky”; you will need to walk on this temporary ceiling during the construction of the roof.

Mauerlat installation

The rafters will rest on it; for the mauerlat, use a 100x100 mm beam. The timber is laid under the rope along the entire length of the bathhouse and veranda; use roofing felt for waterproofing. Be careful when it comes to waterproofing; the fact is that all cement-based materials tend to absorb atmospheric moisture. And high humidity has a negative impact on wooden structures.

Step 1. Check the position of the top chord of the masonry and, if necessary, straighten it with mortar.

Step 2. Measure the length of the opposite walls and the distance to the outermost vertical support column, and prepare the beam using these data.

Step 3. Place two layers of roofing material on the wall and a beam on it, do all the work along a stretched rope, the mauerlat should be in the middle of the blocks.

Very important! The distance between opposite Mauerlats must be absolutely the same.

Step 4. Securely attach the Mauerlat to the wall. To do this, you can use scraps of reinforcement 30÷40 centimeters long. Before laying the Mauerlats, it is advisable to drill holes in them for metal dowels, the distance between the holes is approximately one meter. Drill the walls along the existing holes and drive in metal dowels. The Mauerlat must be secured firmly; perform all construction operations correctly.

Mauerlats need to be made for vertical supports verandas. We strongly recommend that one beam overlaps the supports and is tied to the bathhouse frame - this will increase the stability of the structure.

Step 5. Calculate the dimensions of the rafters, make one blank from the boards. It is not advisable to use headstocks for vertical stops; it is enough to just tie them together rafter legs top screed.

For fastening, use nails or screws of the appropriate length, metal corners and plates. This will greatly speed up and simplify the process of constructing the rafter system. For our rafters, a 50×100 mm board is suitable, the distance between the rafters is 1.2÷1.4 meters, the number of rafters should be more than needed to cover the box - this roof will simultaneously cover the veranda. The angle of inclination of the slopes is within 20÷30°. Do not forget that the rafters should protrude thirty centimeters beyond the walls to drain rain and melt water.

How to make a template? Take boards of suitable length, 20÷25 mm thick, and lift them onto the roof of the bathhouse. Use one nail to overlap at the top, the boards should rotate. First set the angle of inclination “by eye”, drive in a second nail at the top, this will fix the angle of inclination of the rafter legs. Place the template on the mauerlats, mark the joining point, cut the persistent “heels” in these places, and check the position of the rafter legs again. Walk with the template along the entire length of the bathhouse and check the rafters. If everything is fine, you can lower the template to the ground. Using this template, make all the rafters, lift them onto the roof ready-made designs. Next, the rafter legs can be mounted on the Mauerlats.






Step 6. Install rafters along the edges of the roof, including their extension over the veranda.

Check the position, everything is fine - temporarily fix them from below with any boards or slats of the appropriate length. Pull the rope along the ridge and you can install all the other rafter legs.



Step 7 Nail the sheathing. In our version for roofing a metal profile (profiled sheet) has been selected. The distance between the lathing is approximately 40 centimeters, this is enough to securely fix the sheets. For lathing, you can use slats or inexpensive boards. The latter are preferable - there is less chance of the self-tapping screw not hitting the rail.

Step 8. If you want it, install a hydrobarrier; if you don’t want it, don’t install it. A properly covered roof will not have leaks. In addition, our attic space is not used, so there is no need to insulate the roof.

Step 9 Carefully mark the position of the first row of profiled sheets; the length of the overlap should be at least 10 centimeters. It is advisable to lay the first row without fixing it and check everything.

Step 10 Fasten the sheets one by one using special screws with a rubber gasket, the length of the screws is at least 25 mm. You need to install a special metal curved bar on the skate. You can buy it in a store or make it yourself. Attach snow guards.





Step 11. Hammer the parts of the rafters protruding above the wall with wind boards.



Step 12 Install a drainage system. The brackets need to be fixed to the wind boards; make a slight angle of inclination towards the water receiver. Install vertical pipes after covering the external walls.




In the photo - fastening the gutter

Now you can wall up the gables with blocks, provide windows in them. That's all for the roof. You can begin installing floors and ceilings.




Vido - Pediment masonry

Installing the floor in the steam room

We will lay the floors directly on the floor beams, the distance between the beams is one meter; for the covering, use an ordinary edged planed board approximately 25 mm thick. Before installing the floor, decide on the location of the water drainage, prepare the receiver and make an outlet outside the perimeter of the bathhouse.

For better water drainage, we will make a slight slope of the floor, 2÷3° is quite enough. to one of the walls, you can buy a factory-made grille or make your own from a piece of sheet aluminum.

Step 1. Make markings and install floor beams from 100x100 mm timber. The ends must be wrapped with roofing felt. Fix the beams in the wall blocks, to do this, drill holes 10 cm deep. Insert the beams into them, seal the cracks with mortar. Don't forget to make a slight incline. In other rooms of the bathhouse, beams are installed in a similar way, only without a slope. To install the floors, you will need to make a stop for pulling them together or buy a ready-made one in the store. This stop is attached to the beam, and a wooden wedge is driven between it and the floorboards for tightening.



Step 2. Nail up the boards one at a time, you can leave them in the steam room small cracks, in other rooms the floor should be dense.

Step 3. Nail the baseboards, in the corners the baseboards are connected at an angle of 45°, make the cuts as neat as possible.



While there is no need to sand the floorboards, this work will be done at the end of the work after upholstering the walls and installing windows and doors. In other rooms, the floor is installed according to the described algorithm without a slope.

Ceiling installation

For the ceiling you need to take edged boards 20 mm thick; the top of the ceiling can be covered with used material. We recommend using polystyrene foam for insulation. The fact is that mineral wool It is very afraid of high humidity; in such conditions its heat-saving characteristics deteriorate significantly. And using various steam and hydrobarriers is expensive. And they do not provide a 100% guarantee of protection.

Bottom to ceiling beams nail the boards, watch the dimensions, do not allow distortions. If necessary, leave a hole in the attic. Lay foam sheets, at least five centimeters thick, tightly onto nailed boards and cover with boards on top. If you already know the specific location of the stove and the chimney outlet, leave the holes. It is better, of course, to cover the ceiling with natural lining, but this is quite an expensive pleasure. If you have the financial means, use lining.

Windows and doors

You will not be able to make these designs yourself, optimal solution– order by size plastic options, and install it yourself. In terms of price, durability and quality, plastic windows and doors satisfy most developers, and we chose this option. We'll tell you how to install plastic window, the doors are inserted in the same way.

Step, No.Description of actions
Step 1.Clean the perimeter of the window opening from dust.
Step 2.If the window is large and heavy, then it is better to remove the double-glazed windows; if the weight of the structure does not scare you, then you don’t have to disassemble the windows.
Step 3.Insert the box into the window opening and secure it to the wall with special dowels. For buildings made of foam blocks, the number of fixation points should be increased; the blocks do not have high physical strength. If it is enough to install two dowels on each side of the box in wood or brick, then foam blocks require at least four. Before fixing, you need to align the box strictly level. Use various supports and wedges during this process. Immediately replace the window sills inside and outside.
Step 4.Seal the cracks polyurethane foam. Very important: foam should be applied only to well-wetted surfaces of the blocks. On dry surfaces the adhesion coefficient is greatly reduced. Unfortunately, most companies involved in window installation skip this operation - for them the main thing is time, not quality.
Step 5.The next day you need to cut off the excess foam. If you notice any gaps, fill them with mortar and level the surfaces.

That's all, all further work will be done during the cladding of the external and internal walls.

Cladding of external walls

pay attention to comparative characteristics materials for thermal conductivity, we believe that for a bath additional insulation not required. If you think otherwise, no problem, insulate the bathhouse. Advice - insulate external walls, it is much simpler and cheaper, and the effect is the same. Calculate the total surface area excluding doors and window openings. Buy materials: special glue for foam plastic, dowels and large caps, plastic reinforcing mesh, paint or decorative plaster. For insulation, use foam plastic with a thickness of five centimeters. How to do it?

Step 1. Thoroughly clean the foam block walls from sand and dust.

Step 2. Installation of beacons. Beacons are used during many construction works, do not be “ashamed” to use them. With their help, work is not only speeded up, but its quality is also significantly improved. As beacons, you need to install foam boards at the ends of the bath; glue is used for installation. Stretch a rope between them and check the distance from it to the wall. This distance should include sheets and glue; if there are discrepancies, align them to problem areas wall or change the position of the beacons. A specific decision must be made independently, taking into account the size and location of the irregularities.

Step 3. Glue rows of foam plastic along the rope, constantly checking with a level their spatial position in all directions and sides. If you have experience working with tiles, you don’t have to use ropes; control the position of the sheets with a long, even strip. In window and door openings, the foam plastic is cut off, and the cut points are covered with additional elements: special platbands and slats.



Step 4. Practice shows that expensive glue can be saved without compromising quality. Apply it in the corners and center only for preliminary installation of the foam board; final fixation is performed with special dowels after the glue has hardened, usually the next day. It is the dowels that will hold the insulation.

Step 5. If the surfaces are very uneven, gradually level the rows; the gaps between the slabs can be foamed.

Step 6. Secure the boards with dowels. One dowel should hold one corner of the foam board, another dowel should be installed in the center of the board. A total of five dowels are needed per slab. Some builders try to save money and use one dowel to hold all the corners of four adjacent adjacent sheets of foam plastic. This saving method is risky, decide for yourself whether to use it or do everything according to the rules.

Step 7 Reinforcement plastic mesh. Please note that the thickness of the glue must be at least 5 millimeters, otherwise you will not be able to completely hide the mesh. The mesh should be hidden by painting with fade-resistant paints (facade). If decorative plaster is planned in the future, there is no need to embed the mesh.

Interior wall cladding

Before covering, you need to do the electrical wiring, electrical cables must be protected with metal sleeves. The cross-section of the current-carrying conductors is selected taking into account the maximum load and power reserve. Always make a reserve of at least 3–4 kW, this will allow you to safely use additional electrical household appliances or heaters.

For the steam room, be sure to use natural lining; all other rooms can be finished with any building materials. Let's consider the most difficult option wall decoration - natural lining.

Step 1. Mark the wall, determine the places where you will fix the vertical slats. The dimensions of the slats are 20–50 mm, the distance between them is approximately 50 centimeters.

Important: special dowels are available for foam blocks, do not use ordinary ones!

Step 2. The slats should be installed level; if there are large irregularities on the wall, they need to be removed. Small irregularities can be eliminated with various supports for the slats.

Step 3. Fasten the two outer slats, stretch the thread between them and install all the rest along it.

Step 4. Check the distance from the floor to the ceiling in the corners. If there is a difference, then saw off the first panel at the desired angle to level the horizontal position. It is better to do this at the bottom of the wall, where it is less noticeable.

Step 5. Use small nails to secure the paneling; hammer the nails into the groove at an angle. Make sure all nails fit into the batten. The length of the nails is approximately 2 cm.

Step 6. Beat around the perimeter of the entire room, attach a special wooden corner. Secure skirting boards and baguettes (on the floor and ceiling).

Some rooms can be finished sheet plywood, OSB boards or plasterboard. Before starting upholstery work, you need to perform the same complex preparatory work and fastening load-bearing frame, as for lining.

Install rainwater drainage pipes. This completes the largest and most labor-intensive construction work. You can start installing the stove, shelves for the steam room, various shelves and benches for bath equipment. And then paint or plaster decorative plaster façade walls.

Video - Project of a one-story VIP bathhouse with a large terrace and barbecue area

A bathhouse is not only a cleansing and healing procedure, but also a club of interests, a meeting place for friends. And besides gatherings in the recreation room, sometimes it’s nice to spend time outside. For such gatherings, terraces are added to the house. They can be open - if gatherings are planned only in the warm season, or closed - if you sometimes relax there in the winter.

Meeting friends, conversation and relaxation are closely associated with barbecue. Where there is a barbecue, there is a grill. And the only thing better than a portable barbecue is a stationary barbecue. So they often plan bathhouses with a terrace and barbecue.

In this bathhouse project, the terrace covers the bathhouse on three sides. A decent area will allow you to sit comfortably for any campaign. If desired, part of the terrace can be made closed. You can relax in it on cool days. You can install a barbecue on a separate stand or do it in one of the blind corners.

According to the internal layout of the bathhouse project. Pay attention to how the stove is installed. It heats four adjacent rooms at once. If you plan to place a bathhouse and in winter time, you will have to provide additional heating for the rest room, so more power will be required. But the rest room will require a separate heat source: it is of decent size, and sauna stove not heated.

In the case of an all-season bath, it will be necessary to fence off part of the rest room as a vestibule or hallway. So that the cold air does not interfere with your rest after the bath.

This bathhouse project has two entrances - one from the porch, the second from the terrace. The building has a separate bathroom and a fairly spacious kitchen, but the area occupied by the entire building with extensions is considerable: 14 * 7 m. At the entrance from the porch there is a separate vestibule. This entrance was planned as a winter one. In summer you can open wide sliding doors, making the terrace even larger.

The layout option for a corner bath is quite functional. She occupies a minimum of space, having everything necessary premises. The shower room is spacious enough for installation. The stove is heated from a steam room, which is possible given its dimensions. By moving the doors, you can install the stove closer to the corner and embed it into the wall. This way it will be heated from the shower, which in some cases is more convenient. For the remaining rooms, it will be necessary to think through the heating system (if the bathhouse will be used in winter).

This layout has a “disease” of many projects: there is no vestibule for winter use. But there is a locker room here, which is undoubtedly good. The only problem is that from the washing room there will be wet air, and wet clothes are unacceptable. Therefore, this room must have very good ventilation. It is necessary to provide input and output vent, and also install an exhaust fan at the exit. Only in this case can we ensure quick removal moisture.

Which project to choose

The terrace can be located very close to the bathhouse - adjacent to one or more sides of the walls of the building, or it can be placed at some distance from the house. Another option is to make a large area close to the house and a small extension, connected by a path, for installing a barbecue - so that the smoke does not interfere.

The roof of the terrace and the house can be common, but the foundations must be independent. Between the base of the house and the site, if they are very close, a layer of insulation is laid. It serves as a separator. Thanks to this option, shrinkage of the bathhouse and terrace can take place independently.

Since shrinkage may be uneven, when planning a house and a barbecue under one roof, rafter system make it floating. It has the ability to compensate, to a certain level, for the unevenness of the changes occurring.

What kind of foundation will be under the terrace?

For terraces with wooden flooring do it more often columnar foundation- it is easier to manufacture and cheaper. For areas finished with tiles or porcelain stoneware, an insulated slab is needed if the finishing is paving slabs, it can be placed on a profiled membrane and a backfill of crushed stone and sand. This is perhaps the most inexpensive and fastest option.

A pile foundation requires lower costs, but requires the installation of only wooden foundations. support posts, on which the roof will rest. Such barbecue terraces often have a low wooden fence. These projects “fit” well into the traditional style: they are attached to walls made of logs or timber.

To baths made in modern style, more often they build open terraces with tiles (ceramic or paving), laid finishing stone. But under brick or stone support pillars, it is necessary to make a shallow slab foundation with insulation. In winter, on heaving soils without insulation, not a single finishing material will not hold, and the slab may crack (and, most likely, it will). Without insulation, you can make a foundation for a terrace only on dry sandy loam soils that are not prone to heaving.

How to build a slab for a terrace with a barbecue with your own hands

The construction of any foundation begins with earthworks. First, select soil to the width of the planned terrace, plus fifty centimeters. This half a meter is used to create a protected insulated blind area. It covers the side of the stove and prevents it from freezing.

The depth of the pit depends on the region, the degree of heaving of the soil, and the thickness of the finishing.

As insulation slab base It is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) of high density (not less than 35 kg/m3). It has excellent heat-insulating properties, does not rot, does not absorb water, is not damaged by rodents and insects, fungi and mold do not develop on it, and it is also resistant to mechanical stress. For middle zone In Russia, the thickness of polystyrene boards should be about 100 mm.

How to connect the base of the terrace to the foundation of a bathhouse or house is shown in the figure. Please note that SPA anchors are not a required part. If the slab insulation is properly carried out, there will be no shifts or movements. Even if the entire terrace is covered with bricks. But for your own peace of mind, you can install them.

Bedding

In the pit for the terrace, the remaining soil is leveled and compacted. A substrate of crushed stone (middle fraction) 10-15 cm thick is poured and compacted. It’s better not to do it manually, but with a vibrating plate - the result will be better, there will be less shrinkage. At this stage, the formation of the slope begins to create a blind area. From the edge of the terrace, at that same 50 cm, the crushed stone is leveled so that its layer becomes thinner towards the edge.

If the level groundwater high, laid in crushed stone drainage pipe. It should be located at a distance of 20-30 cm from the foundation of the house. Its function is to drain water that has fallen under the slab. 10-15 cm of sand is poured onto the compacted crushed stone, leveled, spilled, and also compacted to a high density (when no trace of the boot remains). Here the slope for the blind area is also preserved.

Waterproofing and insulation

This is a modern waterproofing material - a profiled membrane. It has high reliability, and at the same time, due to the uneven surface, it compensates for heaving forces

Waterproofing material is pricked on top. IN budget option it's tight polyethylene film(200 micron density is higher), but it is advisable to use others waterproofing materials, in particular, polymer membranes. They are much stronger and more durable, and due to their uneven surface they partially compensate for the loads of winter heaving.

The width of the waterproofing should be decent: one edge should extend approximately 10-15 cm onto the wall of the building, the second should cover the entire width of the blind area (the second edge is not fixed, then sprinkled with soil).

Placed on waterproofing polystyrene foam boards insulation. If the insulation thickness is 10 cm, it is better to take five-centimeter thick slabs and lay them in two layers, overlapping the joints of the lower row with sheets of the upper one. Expanded polystyrene is also laid in parts of the blind area, but here the thickness of the insulation is 50 mm (in this area the slope “from the foundation” is maintained).

Another layer of waterproofing is laid on the insulation, its width is the same, one edge is placed on the foundation of the bathhouse. Both films are fixed together with a clamping bar.

Reinforcement and filling of the slab

Now formwork is placed around the perimeter of the terrace (exactly along the perimeter of the terrace, excluding 50 cm for the blind area) - a board more than 100 cm high, reinforced with posts or jibs, you can sprinkle it lightly with soil. The reinforcement is laid out on the brick halves. They will provide a distance of 5 cm from the edge of the concrete slab.

When creating a reinforced frame, do not forget that reinforcement is required for each column or post. It is bent with the letter “G” and two such rods are tied in the right place

For reinforcement, rods with a diameter of 6 mm are used. They are laid in increments of 100 mm both lengthwise and crosswise. They are tied at the intersections with knitting wire. Having finished making the reinforcing frame, concrete mixture is poured into the formwork. The thickness of the mortar layer is 10 cm. It can be made standard: 1 part cement, 2 parts sand and 3 crushed stone, less water than cement.

To increase the frost resistance of the slab, it is advisable to treat it. Since the depth is shallow, you will need a surface model (you can rent it for a few hours).

Curing

After setting, the surface is covered with film. If the weather is hot, the stove is sprayed with water for several days. The next day after pouring, wetting is abundant, and on all subsequent days it is moderate. In addition to the film, you can cover the stove with something that does not allow light to pass through - uneven heating can cause cracks to form. If additives that accelerate the setting of cement were not introduced, then finishing can begin in three to four weeks.

The formwork can be removed a week after pouring. After this, soil can be poured over the blind area (extreme 50 cm) and leveled. If you wish, you can then sow grass or plant flowers - that’s up to you as you wish.

Pile foundation for the terrace

If you plan to make a terrace with wooden flooring, you can get by with an easy-to-make pile, drilled-rammed foundation. One note: this foundation will perform well in areas with low level groundwater. If groundwater is close to the surface, it is better to make a shallow columnar one.

It is most convenient to use pipes. Metal ones are expensive, and they also need to be carefully treated to prevent rust; asbestos-cement ones are the most acceptable option. Some people install plastic sewer lines. Despite the low strength of such formwork, it can be a good option. After all, the plastic is smooth, and it will be difficult for the emerging lateral forces of heaving to “catch” it. And they are the most difficult to deal with: they are almost not calculated.

In any case, the diameter of the pipes is about 20 cm. The pitch of installing the piles depends on the type of soil and the load on the terrace. On average it is 1-1.5 meters.

Wells are drilled in the ground below the freezing depth of the soil. Approximately 15-20 cm of crushed stone is added and the crushed stone is compacted. Insert the pipes, placing their upper edges at the same level. To make installation easier, you can throw a couple of shovels of crushed stone inside the pipe.

Vertical installation is checked, alignment on planes and easier to do with the help of stretched threads. To do this, reinforcement bars are driven in at key points, they are also positioned vertically, then cords are tied to mark the lines for installing the pillars.

Two or three reinforcement bars (diameter 8-10 mm) need to be driven into each pipe. They must first be connected to each other. You can use any sufficiently flexible and strong wire that will allow you to hold the rods in a given position. The reinforcement must be positioned so that each rod is at least 5 cm from the wall. This way they will be inaccessible to moisture and oxygen, which is why they will not rust.

After installing the reinforcement, you can pour the piles concrete mortar. To give the structure increased density, it is necessary to achieve homogeneity of the solution. In this case, you need to use a submersible one, with a flexible shaft and mace length of 1.5-2 meters. As a last resort, you can pierce the concrete. They take a thick rod of reinforcement, pierce the concrete right through, and then shake it a little. This removes air bubbles. Do this immediately after pouring. As a result, the solution settles a little, you have to add a little. Another option is to knock on the pipe, but preferably either with a rubber mallet or a wooden mallet (so as not to break the asbestos, since it is quite fragile).

How to attach the harness

After the concrete has set, they are attached to the posts. wooden blocks bottom trim. Take better timber 150*50 mm or 75*150 mm. Before laying, they are treated with impregnations and antiseptics, if desired, tinted with stains and always covered with varnish or paint. Paint and varnish products are used for outdoor work. It will reliably protect the wood from atmospheric influences.

To prevent moisture from penetrating through the concrete to the wood, a layer of waterproofing (regular or euroroofing felt in two layers) can be laid on the tops of the piles under the bars. There are no problems with attaching the joists to the concrete. You can do this in several ways:

More difficulties arise when attaching the joists to the building: this operation is not often required. Reliable option next: attach the beam to the wall at the required level (don’t forget to process it). Fasten with studs (for example, M12*1000), wood grouse or anchor bolts(with a diameter of at least 10 mm). The installation step of the fasteners is 50-60 cm. To make the fastening more durable, they are installed in a zigzag pattern - one higher, the other lower. To prevent water from flowing between the wall and the timber, seal the joint with silicone sealant.

The logs and all other elements are attached to the beam with special fastenings made of galvanized iron (see photo).

The height of the terrace flooring should be slightly lower than the floor in the bathhouse or house. Approximately 25 mm. This will prevent water from flowing into the house. To make it easier to navigate, you can measure the height of the window sill in the room from the floor. Then, on the outside, mark a level 25 mm lower, then lower the level even lower, but this time by the thickness of the board (if you are using a board 25 mm thick, then in general the support beam should be nailed below the floor level in the house, not 50 mm).

Therefore, they begin to install the harness by attaching the support beam to the wall, and they are already guided by it when installing the harness and joist. The same block can be used when setting the level of piles (the piles are placed along the lower edge of the beam).

To two bars - one on the wall, the second on stilts - transverse bars - logs - are attached. Their installation step is 40-60 cm. After fixing the logs, you can nail the flooring to them. It can be made from edged boards, or from a special terrace. It differs in that a wave-like profile is formed on one side. This surface is not so slippery even when wet.

A special feature of corner baths is their unusual shape. In classic corner version the main part of the room (steam room and washing room) is built perpendicularly, at an angle of 90⁰ to the additional rooms for leisure activities.

Why build a corner bathhouse, and what advantages does it have over a rectangular structure?

  1. The stove in such buildings is located in the middle between the steam room and the relaxation room, so it can heat the entire room, which is especially important in winter.
  2. Corner baths are designed specifically for installation in areas small sizes or in courtyards where additional buildings, flower beds, garden furniture and other decorative elements are already present. The building is necessarily located in one of the corners of the site, and therefore does not take up much space and does not disturb the overall composition.
  3. A building whose shape resembles an angle or triangle is a rather unusual and interesting architectural solution.

In addition to all its additional advantages, compact corner baths, made by experienced specialists, will perfectly cope with their main purpose - to help a person or a group of people have a good time.

Corner sauna made of timber

The compact building is equipped with a vestibule room, which further contributes to the preservation warm temperature in the building even in the coldest weather.

This project takes up very little space on the site, but at the same time the building is quite spacious and practical.

The rest room and wash room are combined here, which allows you to save more free space in the room and save on the cost of building materials.

The presented project has a very interesting triangular shape and will look original on any summer cottage.

On the ground floor there are all the main components (steam room, wash room, vestibule and bathroom), and on the second floor there are extra room relaxation, where you can equip a kitchen, a billiard room or even a workshop and a very spacious balcony, which in the summer is good for romantic dates and friendly gatherings.

This project is very remarkable thanks to unusual design and a spacious open veranda.

There is a barbecue oven installed on the veranda, so during the warm season, barbecue parties can be held here.

Inside the building there is a steam room, separate washrooms and toilets, and three rooms for rest and leisure, which can be furnished to your own taste.

The project with a terrace and barbecue will appeal to all lovers of bathhouses and traditional outdoor recreation, since it combines all the components for an ideal leisure time.

Corner sauna for 10 people

A wonderful project with a spacious steam room and an open terrace that can comfortably accommodate a group of up to 10 people.

Bathhouse with swimming pool 129 sq.m. m.

An elegant structure is guaranteed to decorate your site and give it status. A room equipped inside the building with a swimming pool of more than 40 square meters Comfortably cool down after water treatments.

The building has a main (from the terrace) and an additional (from the porch) entrance, is equipped with a separate kitchen and guest room, separate bathroom and comfortable steam room.

On the second floor there is an additional guest room where you can arrange a bedroom or a billiard room, which will allow you to use the building as a guest house or even the main house.

Bathhouse with veranda and barbecue 8x9

A surprisingly compact and at the same time very pretty and roomy building project with a barbecue - perfect choice for people who are concerned about the issue of comfortable leisure time.

Enclosed veranda With large windows allows you to comfortably spend time in the bathhouse both in summer and winter. The building also accommodates small room rest room, washroom, steam room and bathroom.

Bathhouse with veranda and barbecue 8x10

Small bathhouse with a separate barbecue room can safely be called a successful architectural solution, since a building measuring 8x10 actually fits spacious kitchen, combined with a dining room, living room, separate bathroom and a steam room.

The developers also propose installing a fireplace in the relaxation room to maintain an atmosphere of comfort and the possibility of autonomous heating of all rooms of the bathhouse.

In fact, in such a building you can not only spend your leisure time comfortably, but even organize holiday parties, accommodate unexpected guests and live independently.

Two-story bathhouse made of laminated timber 94 sq.m.

Buildings made of laminated veneer lumber are distinguished not only by their reliability, but also by the high speed of assembly of the structure. By ordering the construction of this project, you will be able to enjoy the procedures on your own site at the most short time.

Two-story bathhouse with a separate boiler room, very convenient, designed taking into account, first of all, the comfort and hygiene of visiting the steam room and living in the house.

All main premises are located on the ground floor, including toilet room, kitchen and living room, and the second floor is ideal for equipping a bedroom on it. Thus, this building can perfectly perform not only its main functions, but also serve as an excellent place for a small family to live.

L-shaped bath

Project L-shaped designed specifically for placement in the corner of the site. The building combines a separate dressing room, steam room, washroom, bathroom and vestibule, as well as a spacious lounge.

Bathhouses with a terrace always have a high foundation, which helps protect the room from dampness and cold in rainy weather. A spacious open summer terrace is the dream of every person who values ​​outdoor recreation and warm sunny days. If it happens that your house is not equipped with a terrace, as happens quite often, you can compensate for this inconvenience by building a bathhouse in the yard according to one of individual projects which we offer for your viewing.

This option allows a person to simultaneously solve several problems:

  • the presence of a personal bathhouse in your own yard;
  • the presence of a terrace, which can serve as an ordinary gazebo, without which it is difficult to imagine summer gatherings in the yard;
  • resolving the issue of family or friendly leisure activities;
  • and even solving the housing problem, if you have such a need.

We offer to equip some terraces with garden barbecues, grills or barbecues for parties, picnics and just family dinners.

Bathhouse and guest house with barbecue and terrace

Bathhouse – guest house – perfect solution for hospitable people, as well as those who like to live in a bathhouse. There is a built-in barbecue on the premises, and there is also enough space for chairs and tables.

Another interesting project, combining a bathhouse and a guest house in one room, has a separate entrance for the room in which the barbecue oven is located and the main doors that lead to the hallway, which fully complies with fire safety rules.

The proposed project of a bathhouse with a barbecue has an open terrace, which in size almost corresponds to the area of ​​the enclosed space. This layout is ideal for people who love open space and at the same time appreciate the amenities given by civilization.

Bathhouse with terrace and billiard room 6x9

Gorgeous brick bath with a terrace and a stove simulating a fireplace, it will serve as a real decoration for your yard.

The layout of the room is very thoughtful and comfortable and includes not only a steam room, a bathroom and a relaxation room, but even a bedroom.

The main decoration of this room is the billiard room, where you can spend a wonderful time, regardless of the season and time of day.

On the ground floor of the bathhouse there are its main components - a spacious steam room and a washing room, as well as many additional rooms for a comfortable stay.

You can enter the attic using the stairs, which are located in the corridor. The project developers suggest that this is where the ideal location will be pool table and comfortable chairs.

Bathhouse with a timber terrace (56.2 m2)

A bathhouse with an unusual gazebo terrace can be very conveniently connected by a glazed or open corridor with the main room ( residential building). In addition, such a structure looks more than impressive.

The room is equipped with a vestibule, has a very spacious steam room and shower room, and a separate bathroom.

Bathhouse with a terrace made of galvanized logs 48 sq.m.

The peculiarity of rounded wood is its ideality. All log houses from which this project will be built will be completely identical to each other, which will ensure the beauty of the building. There are no latches or unsightly cracks on this tree.

Inside the building is divided into 5 separate rooms. All rooms in the bathhouse are very spacious, and the living room and vestibule are equipped with large windows that let a lot of light into the room.

Thanks to the use of forging elements and a foundation made of natural stone This project looks very solid and representative.

The building has an emergency entrance through a separate spacious boiler room and the main entrance through an open summer terrace. Conventionally, you can divide the bathhouse into two parts, because Right side the building contains all the necessary rooms for holding bath procedures, and the rooms located on the left side are intended for relaxation.

Bathhouse 6x6 with terrace (26.4 m²)

Log baths are famous for their reliability and good looks.

Externally, the bathhouse with a spacious terrace looks very compact, but inside the room fit as many as 7 spacious rooms.

Classic Russian bathhouse with terrace

Wooden sauna with a terrace, washroom and rest room - a classic design of a Russian bathhouse.

Bathhouse made of rounded logs with a terrace 7.1 by 7.8 m

A rounded log can give elegant look any building. A bathhouse made of rounded logs with a terrace looks like a fairy-tale house from Russian legends.

Roomy open terrace ideal for summer picnics, and a steam room with a relaxation room will allow you not to get bored in the company of friends even in winter.

Bathhouse made of cellular blocks with a terrace (53.3 m2)

A bathhouse made of cellular blocks is a building built to last. This project has a very nice appearance and occupies a relatively small area on the site.

The bathhouse is notable for the fact that it has three entrances: from the terrace, from the vestibule and from the washing room. The premises have rooms for separate living room and kitchen, furnace and utility room.

Wooden bathhouse with shower and terrace

The project from the outside cannot be confused with a building for any other purpose other than a bathhouse. Pretty wooden building will definitely become a decoration for your yard.

On the ground floor of the bathhouse there is a shower room, steam room, living room, vestibule and terrace. There is no provision for an attic.