Calculate how much floor joist is needed. Calculation of building materials for a wooden floor - online calculator

Choosing the right floorboard is no less important than the floor design. After all, the final result largely depends on the board that was laid on the joists.

In general, the floorboard can be any lumber secured to joists. Most often, this name refers to a tongue and groove board. This is lumber that has three processed “finish” sides - two ends and one plane - the front side. On the sides, tongues are formed using a special machine: a groove on one side, a tenon on the other. When laying, the tenon is driven into the groove, which gives the coating additional strength and can partially hide the cracks that form during drying. Moreover, even a slightly dry tongue and groove floor looks good.

A tongue and groove board may have a tongue different shapes. It is most convenient to install if it has a conical shape. The cone fits in easily even with slight curvature of the boards. With a spike rectangular shape much more difficult to fight. If there are deviations, the board is not ideal, then you either have to struggle with it for a long time, or cut it into pieces no more than 2-3 meters long, and then join the sections. It turns out to be a completely different, unkempt look.

Floor boards also come with a quarter-shaped overhang. This is when half the width of the board is removed from one side from the bottom, and from the other from the top. This type is even easier to install than a traditional tongue-and-groove board, and the floor looks no worse.

There is another type of floorboard - with edges beveled at 45°. It is also not very common, although it is no worse in operation and aesthetics.

Sometimes an ordinary edged board is laid on the floor - it has the shape of a rectangle in cross section. It is placed close together - end to end - and secured with nails or self-tapping screws. If we talk about bathhouses, then when installing leaky floors, edged boards will be the best option. In other cases, you should give preference to options with any type of lock: when drying, the cracks are not so noticeable.

In addition to tongue-and-groove solid wood boards, there are also glued boards. It consists of several boards glued together. The wood fibers are arranged in such a way that under any conditions its geometry remains virtually unchanged. If it changes, it is several times less than the massive one. But due to the labor-intensive production of such material, its prices are high. But a laminated board floor is almost guaranteed to be level.

Types of floorboard locks

There is another type of lumber that is laid on the floor. This is a decking board. She is different in that she front part not smooth, but wavy. And even if the board is wet, it is not slippery to walk on. It is rarely used indoors, mainly because it is very difficult to bring an uneven surface to an ideal state. But when building a bathhouse, it can be useful if you build a swimming pool or plunge pool on the porch. By laying a decking board around the pool, you don’t have to worry about someone slipping.

Terrace board looks very attractive on the floor

Any type of lumber is in the “euro” category. There is a Euro floor board, tongue and groove or not, and there is a terrace board. All the difference is in stock back side longitudinally located groove, which promotes better ventilation. There should also be a difference in the quality of the wood: without knots. But best quality not always available, but higher prices are always available. If you decide to take the option with a groove, be sure to meticulously check the quality of the material and geometry.

Wood species for flooring

Any wood can be laid on the floor. The only question is your preferences and financial capabilities. The purpose of the room can also play a role.

For baths, coniferous boards are traditionally placed on the floor. It is the most inexpensive, and its quality indicators are quite good. Contained in coniferous trees a large number of resins (pine and spruce), some contain tannins (larch), which extends their service life in conditions of constantly changing temperatures and humidity. The only drawback of pine and spruce is soft rocks and if there are a lot of people steaming, they quickly wear out. But if the bathhouse is a family bathhouse, visited occasionally, then such wood will last a long time.

Speaking specifically about premises, larch will behave better in “wet” conditions: it only becomes stronger from water. It is better to place pine and spruce in the locker room or rest room. They will not tolerate the constant presence of water, especially since not many people want to treat wood for steam rooms with antiseptics, and without them they will most likely begin to rot.

They put wood and hardwood on the floor, but it is more susceptible to rotting, and even more often it turns dark from water. There are some other nuances that can only be determined by experience. For example, oak wood is durable and not afraid of water. But it is better not to put it on the floor in wet rooms: when wet it is very slippery. It is impossible to walk on it, so you will have to cover this beauty with anti-slip mats.

This is what a tongue-and-groove Euro board looks like in profile

When installing a double plank floor, the boards for roughing and finishing should be taken from the same wood. For a subfloor, unedged (be sure to remove the bark and treat for bugs), for a finished floor - edged, tongue-and-groove. But only from the same wood. Otherwise, because different sizes The floor may expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity.

Floor board dimensions

The minimum thickness of boards for laying on the floor is determined by the step of laying the logs. The greater the distance between two adjacent supports, the thicker the lumber is needed.

Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard on the installation pitch of the logs

But this - minimum thickness. It is advisable to take with some reserve: taking into account the fact that it will be necessary to update periodically appearance- grind, remove upper layer. If the thickness is taken “butt-to-shoulder”, after one or two sandings the floorboards will begin to sag under your feet and creak - this is not the greatest pleasure. To get rid of “dancing” boards, you will have to lay new, thicker boards, or reduce the lag pitch (increase their number), which is also not fun.

The width of the boards can be different - from 30 mm to 120 mm. In general, it turns out like this: the wider the board, the fewer joints and faster styling. Therefore, for ordinary dry rooms, you can choose a wide board. But it must be said that a cube of a wide board costs more than the same volume of a narrower one: there is more waste.

When choosing the width of the boards for the bathhouse, there are also some nuances. It is better not to use wide boards: as humidity increases, they change their geometry more strongly. Sometimes it is so strong that walking becomes problematic. That’s why in a steam room or shower they use a narrow or medium-width board.

How many boards in one cubic meter

Having decided on the size of the floor boards, you need to calculate how many of them you need to buy: lumber is sold by the cubic meter.

There are no strict standards in this industry, nor is there a clear distinction between varieties. Some manufacturers produce only two varieties, others may have five or six. You have to navigate on the spot.

The only thing that is clear is that higher-grade products should not have knots at all. It is advisable to buy them if you want to varnish the board. If you plan to paint, then there is no point in overpaying for the absence of knots: they are not visible under the paint anyway. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that they are not “dead” - black. Black bitches crumble and fall out, but we don’t need that.

There is only a more or less established standard for length: 6 meters. But many sawmills make three- and two-meter boards. Moreover, a cubic meter of three-meter ones will cost less than six-meter ones. So if you don’t need a long board, look for a suitable size: it will be cheaper.

Now let's talk about how to count the number of boards in a cube. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of one board. You have decided on the width and thickness of the board, knowing the standard length, you can calculate its volume: you need to multiply all the dimensions. But they must be expressed in meters.

For example, we will lay a 40*150 mm board. Convert millimeters to meters:

40 mm = 0.04 m, 150 m = 0.15 m

We'll take it standard length 6 m. The total is 0.04 m * 0.15 m * 6 m = 0.036 m 3. One board is 0.036 cubic meters. Now we find how many such boards there will be in one cube (we divide one by 0.036), it turns out 27.7 pieces, but 27 pieces will be shipped.

Knowing this algorithm, you can calculate the quantity of any board or timber. To make it easier for you, the volume of one board of the most popular sizes and their number per cubic meter are calculated and entered into the table (for six-meter lumber).

Now about the volume of purchases. Having calculated how many boards you will need, take at least 10-15% (or preferably 30%) with a reserve. Firstly, defects always occur, and secondly, most likely in a year or two the floor will have to be rebuilt - cracks will appear, some boards will be unscrewed with a “propeller”. And then you will need to change or add boards. If there is nothing left, then those purchased from another batch are unlikely to become normal. There will definitely be problems: either the thickness will not fit, or there will be problems with the tongue and groove. In general, a number of pieces should be in stock for a couple of years.

How to choose

First of all, you need to decide on the humidity. Most best option for baths - average humidity is about 20-25%. If you take the board natural humidity, it will lead when drying, there will be a lot of “skis” and “propellers”. They can then only be used in the construction of fences. If you take overdried - chamber drying- in conditions high humidity in the bathhouse it will begin to swell, the floor will warp and rise. So the best option is medium humidity.

The first thing you need to do when purchasing is to check the geometry. When choosing edged boards make sure that the edges are smooth. And the thickness on one side was equal to the thickness on the other side. In principle, this parameter needs to be checked when purchasing any graded lumber (except unedged boards). Take a caliper and measure in several places along the board on one side and the other. There shouldn't be any difference.

When purchasing tongue and groove boards, you also need to pay attention to the geometry and dimensions of the tongue and groove. In order for everything to connect without problems, the groove is made a little deeper than the height of the ridge. Then everything fits together easily. On an incorrectly configured machine, the opposite often happens. Then, no matter how hard you try, you won’t be able to make a floor without cracks. You will have to either change the boards (if possible) or remove part of the tenon.

There is another mistake that is made when producing tongue and groove boards: the upper edge above the tenon (ridge) is grooved more than the lower one. With such a defect, cracks are generally inevitable: it is more difficult to deal with this defect. Only special equipment is required.

You also need to check how much the boards sagged during drying. They are stacked, arranged in bars. Sometimes they become uneven. Then when laying them together it will be problematic.

All these shortcomings are identified quite simply. First you need to inspect the ends of the boards. If you know what to look for (and you now know), the shortcomings are immediately visible. Estimate the dimensions of the tenon and groove, and also see if the edges are evenly positioned above the tenon. If everything is fine, take two boards and join them, as when laying. If their geometry is not broken, they fit together easily and without gaps. If the tests were successful, you can take the tongue-and-groove floorboard: you will be able to install it quickly and easily.

How and with what to fasten

Just a few years ago there were no discrepancies: batten nailed right through to the joists. Sometimes the cap was flattened and then driven deeper with a hammer - this was so that nothing could be seen. This can also be done today. And save money at the same time: nails are cheaper. But after some time, a large number of cracks appear in the plank floor. To get rid of them, the floor is dismantled, compacted, one or two boards are added to the wall - as it turns out. This is where self-tapping screws have an advantage: they are easier to dismantle and do not damage the wood. Try to get a nail with a flattened head without damaging the wood. No way. That’s why they are increasingly using self-tapping screws, although the option is ambiguous: nails are stronger, and the heads of self-tapping screws, especially hardened ones, often fly off.

Tongue or groove?

For hidden fastening Self-tapping screws are not fastened through the boards, but into a tenon or groove. You can do it right through, into the surface, but then the caps will need to be buried in the board, and the holes will need to be covered with putty. Even if the floor is painted, although this is done very rarely in bathhouses. If you take wood putty of the appropriate color and mix some wood dust from your boards into it, then even under a light varnish almost nothing will be visible.

If the screws are screwed into the groove, then at an angle of about 60°. If it is in a tenon, then the angle is smaller - it can be almost perpendicular to the plane of the floor. The second option holds the board more securely (it grips ¾ of the thickness), although the “in the groove” method is more common.

In any case, you will first need to drill a hole for the cap with a drill larger diameter and under the self-tapping screw with a smaller one. This operation, although time-consuming, serves as a guarantee that the board will not burst.

Hidden fastening technology

The technology for hidden flooring is as follows: the first board is nailed tightly through. The second and subsequent ones are attached, beaten with wedges, or better yet, tightened with clamps so that there are no gaps anywhere. Then the fastener is screwed or driven into the groove or tenon at an angle. If the wood is dense, the screws are difficult to install. To make the process easier, the threads are lubricated with soap (it can be slightly moistened to make it easier to smear).

With this method of fastening, no nails or screws are visible. But there is one drawback: only one edge of the board is pulled to the joist. When humidity changes, shrinkage or movement of the foundation, another one may rise. The result is an uneven floor, and it creaks more often. Although, it’s never too late to drive a few nails or screw a few screws into the face.

Which screws to take

What screws should I use for flooring in a bathhouse? Preferably with a thread that does not start from the cap itself. It will be more secure to hold it this way. And it’s better to take unheated ones - they are stronger. For a bathhouse, galvanized ones are better - they won’t rust. The length of the screw depends on the thickness of the board: it should be 2.5 times longer. It seems that according to the parameters of the self-tapping screws, everything is fine. With nails everything is simpler: you need regular ones, but not screw or corrugated ones - it’s almost impossible to pull them out without damaging the wood.

It is better to take self-tapping screws with threads that do not start from the head itself

There is one secret inherited from our ancestors. It will allow you to use ordinary nails in a bathhouse, and they will not rust: they need to be boiled in drying oil. Once dry, you can use it. These nails were used to nail shingles onto roofs, and they did not rust for decades.

So: you need to decide on your own with the method of fastening and the choice of fasteners. Eat different opinions, and all of them are based on experience - your own or your ancestors. But it has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. Add your own. But remember that in a year or two the floor will have to be rebuilt. So for the first time you should fasten it with a minimum of nails or screws - as you decide. Then, once it has dried, it will be possible to permanently fix it.

Watch the video to see how the floorboard is installed and how clamps are used to eliminate cracks.

You can make a device for tightening floor boards yourself using the attached video instructions.

In order for the floor covering to serve for a long time and be durable, the floorboards not to creak or bend underfoot, you must first correctly calculate all the design parameters, including at what distance to lay the floor joists. Not only durability will depend on the correctness of this calculation flooring, but also the amount of material used for it, and therefore the cost of the work.

What determines the choice of lag?
What should be taken into account when making calculations?
An example of calculating the distance between floor joists
Lag pitch depending on floor covering
What can an error in calculations lead to?

What determines the choice of lag?

The size of the selected logs will depend on the installation location. So, in apartment buildings with ready-made wooden or concrete floors, a thin beam on which the floorboards will rest can easily serve as a joist. At the same time, in a frame building, logs are usually at the same time elements of the house frame, they take a significant load, that is, they have load-bearing functions, so they must have a much larger cross-section.

What should be taken into account when making calculations?

When performing the calculation, the following factors are taken into account:

thickness of the flooring material (chipboard, boards, etc.);
approximate step between floor joists;
expected specific maximum load on the floor.

All these parameters will determine the cross-section of boards, timber and other lumber used to construct the floor.

When calculating what distance should be between the floor joists, it should be remembered that the outermost joists cannot be placed further than 30 millimeters from the walls; an allowance must be made for this in the calculations.

As a result of calculations, the result is usually not a whole number, but it should always be rounded up so that the actual number of lags does not turn out to be less than the calculated one. Otherwise, the strength of the floor structure may not be sufficient, especially considering that such savings will be completely insignificant compared to the likely risk.

The cheapest floor joists can be found at sawmills, followed by online construction stores.

When it comes to floor installation, it is not recommended to save too much. The logs must have not only a suitable cross-section, but also sufficient density. If you make the lag step for a floor made of boards too large, the boards will begin to sag and “play.” Likewise, if the distance between the joists for an OSB floor is made greater than acceptable, then the slabs will begin to crumble and crack.

An example of calculating the distance between floor joists

The distance between the floor joists under the board can be relatively large, since a thick board is a stronger material than, for example, thin plywood. Accordingly, thinner finishing materials will require more frequent placement of lags.

For clarity, consider an example of floor arrangement with the following data:

room 12 meters long;
use of 100x180 mm timber for logs;
using 30mm boards as a finishing coating.

Table of distance between floor joists under the board:

According to the table above, for 30mm board optimal distance between floor joists should be 50 cm.

Let's denote total beams with the letter “k”.
Then the total width of all lags will be ( 100 mm * k).
The distance between the wall and the outer beams will be 30 mm.
Accordingly, the step between adjacent lags will be ( k - 1).
The distance between all elements will be ( 0.5 * (k - 1)).

Calculating the distance between floor joists begins by determining the pitch between the beams using the following equation:

length of the room = total width of the beams + sum of the distances between the beams + distances from the walls

12 m = 100 mm * k + 0.5 * (k - 1) m + 30 mm * 2

It is important to bring the equation to unified system calculus. As a result we get:

12 m = 0.1 m * k + 0.5 * (k - 1) + 0.03 * 2

Remembering school course algebra, solve the equation:

12 = 0.1 * k + 0.5 * k - 0.5 + 0.06;
12 + 0.5 - 0.06 = 0.1 * k + 0.5 * k;
12.44 = 0.6 * k;
k = 20.7 pcs.

Since the number of beams can only be an integer, it is rounded up, that is, it is required 21 bars.

The sum of all the gaps between the lags will be:

12 - 21 * 0.1 - 0.06 = 9.84 m

You need to divide the resulting amount by the number of gaps, and we get the distance between adjacent lags:

9.84 / (21 - 1) = 0.492 m

Thus, we were able to establish at what distance to lay the floor joists in this example - 0.492 m or 49.2 cm.

Lag pitch depending on floor covering

Exists linear dependence between the thickness of the laid covering and the pitch of the lag: the thicker the flooring, the larger the step can be.

Here is the distance between the floor joists if the flooring is carried out with boards of different thicknesses:

with a thickness of flooring boards of 20 mm, the lag pitch should not exceed 30 centimeters;
for boards 25 mm thick, the pitch requires 40 cm;
for “thirty” – 50 cm;
for 35 mm – 60 cm;
for “magpies” – 70 cm;
for 45 mm – 80 cm;
for “fifty” – 1 m.

The distance between floor joists under plywood or OSB is determined somewhat differently. On the one hand, these materials are thinner, but on the other hand, they have greater bending resistance.

If the flooring has a thickness of 15-18 mm, then the lag pitch for a plywood floor will be 40 cm.
With thicker flooring (22-24 mm), the step can reach 60 cm.

What can an error in calculations lead to?

What could be the consequences of incorrectly selecting the cross-section of the lags and calculating the distance between them? If the floors are laid on concrete base, then in this case the most important thing will be the step size between the lags, which directly affects the behavior of the floor covering. If you attach too sparsely mounted logs chipboard board, then it may sag and even break. If placed on top ceramic tile, it will crack or fall out. The boards will simply “walk” and sag. Any of these options will require rework.

It will be much more serious to make a mistake at what distance the floor joists are placed, which at the same time serve as elements interfloor ceilings. If in this case you set an insufficient amount such load-bearing elements, then the strength of the building structure itself will decrease, which is fraught with the most serious consequences - from irreversible deformations to complete destruction of the floors.

Do you have experience installing joists? Do you do calculations or just use tables? Write about it in the comments.

To perform an accurate calculation of floor boards, a calculator created as online service, has been around for many years. With its help, you can calculate the amount of material that will be needed for the construction of logs and flooring.

The calculator is used to determine the volume of not only the floorboard, but also the material for the subfloor. As with the construction of other structures, work on creating high-quality floors requires determining the exact amount of fasteners and insulation, end and other parts.

Features of the online calculator

You need to enter several parameters of the living space into the calculator

Floor calculation using online calculator and is carried out on the basis of dimensions indicated in millimeters. To perform all operations you will need to clarify:

floor length and width;
length and thickness of the logs;
width and thickness of boards;
house parameters (width).

For each quantity there are certain designations, among which there are numbers and letters that reflect:

thickness and width of rough subfloor boards;
the number of jumpers between the lags and the step between them;
distance between boards.

You can find out exactly how many boards you need for the floor by using one of the offered floor calculator programs. You will need competent, high-quality drawings, in accordance with which the flooring is constructed and the ceiling is arranged.

When starting to select a material, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of their parameters. The most popular are boards whose thickness reaches 4 cm.

Despite the fact that many designers recommend using products whose this parameter is much higher, boards no thicker than 2 cm are often sufficient.

They are more flexible and durable, and thanks to the high-quality and competent processing of the boards, they are characterized by increased resistance to moisture and temperature changes.

Correctly carried out calculations will allow you to lay a strong screed

It is these qualities that allow properly prepared materials to retain their original shape and avoid cracking, swelling and other damage and deformation.

When do you need a calculator?

The program will even help you determine the optimal distance between the lags

Other data may also be required; specifying them will help the calculator determine the exact area of the room and select the most suitable parameters among the many existing proposals. wood materials, the program is able to correctly set the optimal distance between the lags and the components of the structure.

Using the program, the consumer receives specific data on the required quantity of not only lumber, but also insulation required for arranging and creating insulation under wooden flooring. Read more about construction calculators watch in this video:

Another feature of the program is the ability to indicate some options for the layout of the future floor, allowing you to save money and use it when carrying out construction work minimal amount wood and insulation.

To work with an online calculator, there is no need to contact specialists and designers. It is enough to use the Internet services, indicating the requested data.

Edged boards are in greatest demand in the lumber market. Their distinctive feature- four-sided processing and removal of edges with tree bark. High demand for this type building materials are explained by practicality, durability, environmental friendliness and ease of use.

The main areas of application of edged boards are construction and furniture production. In construction this material can be used for laying floors, ceilings, erecting walls and stairs. IN furniture production boards are used to create solid wood furniture.

Quick navigation through the article

Calculation

Calculate the surface area that needs to be covered (for example, 10*10=100 m²);
Calculate the area of one board (for example, with board parameters of 20cm*5cm*2000 cm, the area of one board will be equal to 0.2m*2m=0.4m²);
Divide the surface area by the area of one board (100 m²/0.4 m²=250 pieces).

To calculate the number of boards when purchasing in cubes, you must:

Calculate required amount boards (divide the surface area by the area of one board);
Calculate the required cubic capacity by multiplying the parameters of the board by the required quantity (for example, you need 20 pieces of boards with a parameter of 20 cm * 5 cm * 2000 cm, which means the required volume is 20 * 0.2 * 0.05 * 2 = 0.4 m³). In this case, all values must be converted from centimeters to meters.

Types of boards

There are so many types of boards that differ in purpose and technical characteristics. Depending on the degree of humidity there are:

Damp - boards with natural moisture. Can be used in the construction of low-critical structures.
Dry - industrially dried. Drying is carried out to avoid deformation of the board and prevent rotting.

Depending on the quality of the boards, the material is distinguished:

Selected grade - used in the automotive industry and shipbuilding;
First grade - in addition to shipbuilding and the automotive industry, it is used in construction and furniture production;
Second grade - used in the same areas as first grade material;
Third grade - production of furniture and packaging products;
Fourth grade - used for the production of containers and packaging.

According to the type of cut, the boards are divided into:

Radial - the cut passes in the middle of the trunk, at an angle of 90⁰, due to which the material has high strength and moisture resistance;
Semi-radial - the cut is cut at an angle of 45⁰, the material is of an average price category;
Tangential is the most economical type of cut; boards of this type are more susceptible to moisture. Possible deformation when drying.

All parameters must be specified in mm

X— Floor width.

Y- Floor length.

S1— Lag width.

S2— Thickness of the logs.

S3— Distance between lags.

O1— Width of floorboards.

O2— Thickness of floorboards.

O3— Width of the subfloor board.

O4- Thickness of the board.

R— Distance between boards.

Using an online calculator you can calculate:

Volume of log materials;
Calculation of floor joists: length, width and required quantity;
Total floor area or square footage;
Number of rows and volume of floor covering;
Number of sheets of wood, laminate or parquet;
Volume between joists for insulation;
The amount of material for the subfloor.

Helpful information

Wooden flooring is made in three tiers, as shown in the figure above. At the bottom there are load-bearing logs on which they will be laid rough boards, and on top there are finishing floorboards. Below we will describe the installation technology in detail.

DIY wooden floor

As a rule, this work is carried out after completion heating season. Since at this time, the boards will not absorb excess moisture. The weather should be dry and sunny. It is best to use unplaned boards for rough flooring. While for the final finishing layer, milled and dried boards with longitudinal grooves for ventilation are used. Boards with a curved edge for a groove connection. As a rule, each such board is pre-treated with a decorative and protective composition.

During the installation process, you must follow the requirements:

All logs must have good stability;
The logs are laid strictly horizontally (exception when the slope is provided for by the project);
Ensure ventilation of the space under the floor;
Wood moisture content should not be more than 12%.

Mark and prepare the floor surface

First of all, we mark out the room and designate the places that need to be planned in order to achieve a uniform level (taking into account the thickness of the seams and the height of the brick). To add incompressible soil, use fine crushed stone or sand with a layer thickness of up to 5 centimeters.

After this, compact the entire surface. In those places where the logs will be located, we fill in crushed stone and also compact it into the ground.

Installation of logs

Can be used as a lag wooden beam size 50x100 mm. According to your program results, we install the timber on an already compacted surface.

If you plan to increase this distance between the lags, then in this case you should use a larger section of the beam.

If the subfloor base has concrete floor or slabs, then we install the logs directly on the concrete. In this case, you can use a smaller cross-section of the beam, since the bending load is almost completely eliminated. The rough flooring will act as a retainer for the second tier, and therefore a section of 50x50 is sufficient.

The distance between the logs will depend on the thickness of the material being coated. For example, 60 centimeters for a milling board, 40 centimeters for covering OSB or plywood.

When the logs are installed, we move on to waterproofing the space underneath them using roofing felt or other modern material.

Rough layer

When the logs are laid, we begin to install the second level, namely “rough boards”. To do this, all end joints should be made directly in the middle of the joists. To fix the boards, we use wood screws of the required size. You can either press the rough boards against each other or nail them at short intervals. In our case, this interval is determined by the value R.

Nails should be driven towards each other at a slight angle for strong fixation.

If you are laying with milling boards, then it is not enough to press them together by hand. For this purpose, special stops and wedges or tightening devices are used.

To fix the finishing board we use nails or wood screws.

The caps of fasteners should not be higher than the surface of the board. To do this you need to go deeper by 2 millimeters. The recesses can be treated with a special putty before painting the floor.

If you use screws instead of nails, you will need to drill holes and subsequently countersink each recess.

During the installation process, a gap of 10-15 millimeters must be left between the wall and the end of the joist or the outer boards, which will subsequently be covered with a plinth. This gap will serve as a compensator during the process of thermal expansion or moisture swelling.

The flooring is ready, now it can be covered with stain or protective varnish.