Homemade greenhouse made of wood under film. DIY timber greenhouse design options

A wooden greenhouse is the best gift for plants that you plan to grow indoors. Durable, reliable, retains heat well, environmentally friendly material - wood. Given that the right choice and wood processing, a do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse will serve no worse than the most expensive purchased option. And it doesn’t matter whether you make the coating from polycarbonate, glass or film - wooden base will withstand any load.

What kind of greenhouses can be built from wood?

You can build any greenhouse you want from wood. The main thing would be skill and financial capabilities. Considering that wooden “waste” is available in many household plots, if desired, the cost of a greenhouse can be significantly reduced.

Let’s take a closer look at which structure is better and easier to install on your site.

Homemade wooden arched greenhouse and dome design are projects that are within reach of true woodworking talents. Greenhouses of this type (see photo) are easier for the average gardener to purchase in a store than to make on their own.

Therefore, we will not consider the details of their manufacture and installation. Let’s dwell on simpler and more affordable options that every gardener can make - wooden greenhouses as a “house”.

We offer you two real projects from the usual wooden beam, which can be made from scrap materials.

Features of foundation installation

We have already discussed in detail the various types of foundations and the features of their installation in the article “”. When making a greenhouse from wood, you need to take into account the main thing - weight wooden structure very impressive and, accordingly, it must stand on a solid foundation.

In this case it would be best to belt type foundation. Raise it above the soil level by about 30 centimeters. And do not forget about reinforcement, which will also increase strength and prevent subsidence of the entire structure.

How to make a classic wooden greenhouse?

The new is always the well-forgotten old. We propose to build a standard wooden greenhouse, which stood on the plots back in the days when there were no construction “sophistications” in the form profile pipes or metal-plastic.

The structure of the greenhouse is frame, based on racks made of 90x90mm timber. Purlins connect the posts at the top and bottom. It's on top rafter system gable roof. Two doors in the end walls. Between the racks there are blank panels halfway up, which are assembled from thick boards and enclosed in frames. Top part The walls and roof are glazed with ordinary silicate glass.

To implement this project you will need materials: Beam with a section of 90x90mm

• 4 things. 4.2 m long;
• 4 things. 3m long;
• 12 pcs. - 3.6 m each;
• 38 pcs. - 1.8 m each.

Half-beam with a section of 45x90mm

• 2 pcs. 3m long;
• 4 things. 4.2 m long;
• 24 pcs. - 2.4 m each;
• 28 pcs. - 1.8 m each;
• 34 pcs. - 1.2 m each;
• 102 pcs. - 0.9 m each.

6-8 sheets of plywood or other sheet material- size 12x1220x2440m. Glass about 10mm thick - for 18 sq.m. walls and 16 sq.m. roofs.

And also: construction nails, wood preservative, roofing steel cornice, door handles and locks, door hinges(3 pairs). It is possible that you will have to buy something in addition due to your mistakes at one stage or another of the work.

Tools: hammer, square, level, measuring tape, screwdriver, a circular saw and a piece of cord.

Foundation and frame base

The greenhouse is placed on a strip foundation. The lower part of the greenhouse frame is assembled and laid on a waterproofing layer. Thoroughly soaked in antiseptic. Wall racks, also with a cross-section of 90x90, are placed on the foundation beams.

When installing, use additional boards as temporary supports. Check verticality and straightness with a level and cord.

The racks are connected at the top by half-timber strapping made of timber. In the side purlins, make markings for the installation of rafter beams, and hollow out inclined nests.

The frames of the gables are assembled using racks made of thick boards. Install the ridge board under the rafters in pre-cut nests. This will make it easy to lay glass panels on top.

Assemble the rafters using nails 100-150mm long. Use a string to check the flatness of the slopes. Carefully coat the entire structure with an antiseptic.

Installation of wooden panels and doors

Install a glazing bead on the pediment part (this is a small cross-section strip). Coat it with sealant and insert pre-cut glass into the resulting slots. In the same way, the glass is strengthened from the outside and secured with thin nails.

Glass is installed on the roof in a similar way. The support is a lath nailed along the side surfaces of the rafter beams - with an indentation of the thickness of the glass and glazing bead from the top edge. The glass is “seated” on the sealant and secured with glazing bead on the sealant and thin nails.

It is advisable for two people to work with glass. Protect your hands with thick mittens.

After glazing the roof, nail a wind board to the ends of the rafter beams, which will give the work a finished look.

Project of a greenhouse made of wooden beams according to the Mittleider type

This greenhouse project can be conditionally called a “greenhouse according to Mittleider”, since the continuation of the rafter structure also includes ventilation windows. 4 window openings are closed in pairs by two rectangular windows. Thanks to better regulation of air flows, the most favorable thermal conditions are created for plants.

The frame of the greenhouse is made of wood, covered with film or glazed. The bevels at the corners give additional rigidity to the building. Reliable timber will ensure the strength and durability of the structure, which will come into contact with a damp environment.

Start of construction

Construction begins with the preparation of materials. To the greenhouse similar type must be purchased:

Don't forget also: door hinges, handles and locks, antiseptic, construction nails, metal staples, self-tapping wood screws and narrow polyester tape.

Marking for strip foundation

Using a cord, tape measure and pegs, markings are made for the strip foundation.

IN simplified version- you can dig a trench around the perimeter to the width and depth of a spade bayonet, fill it with gravel and compact it. Next, waterproofing is done. Make a foundation frame from a beam with a cross-section of 100x100, connect it into half a tree and thoroughly impregnate it with an antiseptic. Place the frame on waterproofing.

Making a conductor and assembling walls

To assemble the walls, a jig is made: A full-size wall is drawn on a flat base, stops are installed in the right places to hold the wall beams in the desired position. Thanks to this, the workpieces can be cut exactly to size and connected correctly. The end walls are assembled in the same way. In one of them it is put doorway taller than the side walls. In the opposite wall there is also an elevated structure, but without a door.

Installation of rafters and plywood brackets

Rafter beams are placed on the end walls, which will define the important planes of the roof slopes and the vertical plane for the ventilation windows:

Check the rafters carefully using a cord and level. After aligning all planes, install the remaining trusses:

To ensure that the installation goes smoothly, stretch the cord between the outer rafters, and assemble the trusses in advance in the jig.

To strengthen the structure, it is convenient to immediately connect the trusses with two beams, which will immediately form window openings. Install the upper beam under the long rafter beams, the lower one - at the junction of the short rafter beams with the truss risers:

Secure the entire roof structure with plywood brackets, as shown in the diagram:

They are installed with screws, for which holes must be drilled in advance. Countersink holes are made for the screw heads.

The distances between the brackets and the edges of the roof beams should be as small as possible, so that later the film can be tightened more accurately.

After installing the brackets, a wind board is nailed to the ends of the upper rafter beams, which will finally form the upper edge of the roof. Later, ventilation window hinges will be installed on the lower edge of this board.

Assembling and fixing window frames

To assemble the frames, 30x50mm slats are used. If your carpentry skills are up to par high level- assemble the frame parts using a tongue-and-groove joint. Otherwise, the slats are assembled at the end with nails or screws. Holes with a diameter of 0.75 of the diameter of the fastener that will be used are prepared for them.

The windows are covered with film. The hinges cut into the desired edges of the window frames and the windows are put in place.

The technology is the same as when installing a window. Strengthening with plywood brackets can provide additional strength:

You can also put 3-4 crossbars from an inch board end-to-end with the door crossbars.

It is better to assemble using screws, pre-drilling holes for fasteners to 0.75 of their diameter. At the end of the work, install the handle.

After the greenhouse frame is completely ready, tighten it plastic film. It is better to do the cutting on paper first to avoid lack of film in the most unexpected places.

The film is attached through a polyester tape - with a stapler using metal brackets. It is not forbidden to secure the film in any other way that seems more convenient to you.

You can cover the entire greenhouse with film on both sides. This will provide an additional layer of air, which will reduce daily temperature fluctuations in the greenhouse, but will somewhat worsen its light transmission.

This type of greenhouse is also well suited for glazing.

To make a high-quality design, be sure to first make a drawing of a wooden greenhouse on paper with all the marks on dimensions and material consumption. Ready project and videos will help you not only install the structure correctly, but also calculate all costs in advance.

If you think that a do-it-yourself greenhouse made of wood is a relic of the past, and the future entirely belongs to “universal” metal Lego structures, then you are mistaken. How alive and absolutely environmentally friendly material, wood will never go out of fashion, and even though it is most vulnerable to moisture, heat and time, it makes wonderful structures! A striking example of this is the strong Finnish structures made of laminated pine - their frames are simply impregnated with an antiseptic before use and dried well. And such greenhouses have been standing for more than 20 years! This is what technology means the right approach– which is what we will tell you about in this article.

What are the advantages of wooden frames?

Here are the advantages of wood as a material for building a frame:

• Cheap. Agree, getting high-quality bars is not so difficult.
• Simplicity. Even a person who is very far from construction can work with such material.
• Easy replacement. Is a part broken or rotten? You can easily replace it with another one.
• Easy to attach any material, be it glass or polycarbonate.
• Absolutely environmentally friendly– wood is also a “breathable” material.
• Easy to assemble and disassemble the frame.
• Light weight and, at the same time, stability.
• Internal organization: in such a structure you can easily attach shelves and special devices, install automation and everything else. Try to do the same in an industrial model with its strictly fixed width, height and curved arcs - it’s not as easy as it seems at first glance!
• Undemanding in care.
• Possibility to build construction of the height, width and design that your soul desires.

And finally, greenhouses are quite aesthetically pleasing and fit perfectly into the surrounding environment. landscape design– these are not mass-produced arched iron tunnels.

How to build a truly durable structure?

The main rule of durability and strength is proper preparation the wood itself for use. Therefore, no matter where you get the bars and no matter how good they look, be sure to first brush them from dirt and sand, rinse them and let them dry for enough time. After that, clean up sandpaper with medium grit or some wet abrasive.

The main thing is to ensure that a painted greenhouse made of wood does not become covered with cracks - if any appear, paint over them immediately, otherwise the material will immediately begin to absorb moisture and rot from the inside. The same applies to bubbles on the paint - clean the layer in such a place and prime the surface again. If, due to some mechanical damage, part of the frame is completely exposed, then use an aluminum primer to treat it: apply the first layer of paint and after a while - two more layers. Also pay attention to what kind of wood you are building the greenhouse from - if it is soft wood, then it will need to be painted twice a year.

Also, the antiseptic significantly extends the life of the structure - it protects it from the destructive effects of moisture.

Ready? Look for some drawing among those offered - and off you go!

Project No. 1

Project No. 2

Project No. 3

5 most popular models of wooden greenhouses

Before you build your structure, purchase quality material, All necessary tools, and carefully consider what the frame will be like. All modern blueprints for the best wooden structures are simple and accessible, and not much more complex in nature than children's Lego. And believe me, building such a greenhouse is much easier than assembling some kind of prefabricated building according to a thick volume of crookedly translated instructions.

Option 1: Small standard design

Dimensions – 6x4 m. Covering – polycarbonate, foundation – any. So, here is the construction process step by step:

• Step 1. Build the foundation. To do this, drill the soil about 60 cm - to the ASG (usually the fertile layer comes first, then the sand and only then the dense layers). Fill the posts through pre-inserted studs.
• Step 2. On the posts we assemble the harness from larch beams measuring 100x100. We tighten the harness itself with a nut and washer to the posts.
• Step 3. We build the frame and cover it with film - that’s all!

Option 2. Wooden greenhouse according to Mittlider

The structure you see in the photo has the following dimensions: 4 m wide, 8.40 m long, and a height at the ridge of just over 3 meters. According to the famous story on which it was built, it has two slopes of different heights and several windows under the very ridge.

50x100 boards were used for the construction. So, now the building itself:

• Step 1. Build the foundation. For this greenhouse - a monolithic tape 20x35 cm with reinforcement 4x8 mm. We impregnate the outside with Penetron so that it does not crumble later, and for aesthetic purposes you can cover it with natural stone.
• Step 2. Install the frame and impregnate it with Senezh-Bio. The racks should be in increments of 72 cm.
• Step 3. We organize the windows in the upper part of the structure - as in the drawing. In this design there will be four of them, each with an area of ​​16 m2. If possible, we install automation to open them.
• Step 4. We fix the polycarbonate - always without gaps.
• Step 5. We do the watering - we turn on the water supply, put a large container and spread the pipes into three beds for drip irrigation.

For such a greenhouse it will cost you building material approximately 2 cubes of 50x100 boards. And to knock together the doors and windows, you will also need piece bars of 30x50 and 50x70 - that's all the costs!

Option 3. Wooden greenhouse under polycarbonate

In this design, the frame is built from a 45x45 mm bar. Length – 8 meters, width – 2.7 m. It can install as many as two doors and eight windows. Keep the distance between the posts no more than a meter, and each truss should be supported by more than two posts at once - with the exception of the central one.

Work order:

• Step 1. The base of the strapping is a metal corner 45x45 or 50x50 mm. Using a grinder, make a 12 cm cut along the shelf, bend it at a right angle and get the base on which to secure the strapping.
• Step 2. Paint the corner twice with anti-corrosion paint.
• Step 3. Drive it into the ground, check everything for level and fasten the strapping bars with self-tapping screws, joining them in half a tree.
• Step 4. Reinforce all joints with a metal plate.
• Step 5. Sew the bottom trim around the perimeter with galvanized steel and bury it in the ground.
• Step 6. Secure the polycarbonate on the roof with self-tapping screws and a rubber washer, and everything else with a press washer.
• Step 7. Cover the ends of the polycarbonate with a plastic corner - at the corners of the greenhouse. Lay the sheets themselves overlapping, treating them along the edges with silicone sealant.
• Step 8. Treat the bottom trim in two layers with an antiseptic and paint it.

Detailed video for this option:

Option 4. Design for film

Use Svetlitsa film as a covering. Work order:

• Step 1. Making the foundation. Since the structure will not be heavy, weld ordinary small homemade piles - such as you see in the photo. You can make them from 50x50 mm corners, their length is 900 mm, cover them with two layers of primer and hammer them into the ground.
• Step 2. Align the piles with the laser and proceed to assembling the base.
• Step 3. Now install truss structures– take 8 mm FK plywood, connect it with PVA D4 and 4x45 self-tapping screws.
• Step 4. Place edges for the beds - for this it is good to use 10 mm slate. And next to it on the street side we place foam plastic.
• Step 5. Now we paint the frame. Just remember that the boards must be treated with the non-washable antiseptic Neomid before construction begins. It’s better to paint with Pinotect – two base coats, and then two more – surface ones.
• Step 6. Assembling the frames for the windows and doors.
• Step 7. Cover the entire structure with Svetlitsa film.
• Step 8. In the greenhouse itself, we tighten the cables to tie up the plants.
• Step 9. Install systems and.

In such a greenhouse, if it is located in a fairly cold area, you can also stretch a second film inside, attaching it to the frame with a stapler. Even if it’s the cheapest one, the effect will please you, believe me.

Option 5. Portable greenhouse on foundation blocks

One of the main advantages of a wooden structure, as you know, is the ability to disassemble and even transport it due to its light weight. Perhaps you have just such a site where such a need in the future is not excluded. But this does not mean that you will have to completely abandon any foundation - due to the need for concreting - you just think of one that can still be disassembled. As, for example, in the option, the basis of which is 2 beams of 150x150 mm each:

• Step 1. We dig a ditch to the sand, 60 centimeters, pour ASG there, compact it well and lay concrete blocks, three on each side.
• Step 2. Treat the timber with non-washable antiseptic Neomid and after drying, coat the bottom and outer sides with bitumen. It is not necessary from all sides - after all, the bitumen can heat up from the sun and give off an unpleasant odor, but it is not needed in the structure.
• Step 3. We install the frame and treat it with the same antiseptic.
• Step 4. At the corners of the greenhouse we attach meter-long braces.
• Step 5. Prepare a template rafter, which will be used to do all the rest.
• Step 6. File the racks and install them.
• Step 7. After completing the construction of the roof, we also paint the ends.
• Step 8. Cover the structure with 4-8 mm polycarbonate.
• Step 9. Inside the greenhouse, you can use EPS for special warmth, and outside put cement blocks under a stone. It will be both warm and aesthetically pleasing.

And, if you think that only “houses” are built from wood, then you are mistaken - this material makes chic arched beauties, outlandish “” and stunning ones!

Affordability of polycarbonate, unique operational properties make him indispensable integral part during the construction of closed ground structures. Another component of greenhouses is the frame.

Comparisons of iron, plastic pipes and wood do not reveal a clear winner: each of these materials has advantages and disadvantages. But if you ask yourself what a novice summer resident will like, the answer will be clear - a wooden greenhouse under polycarbonate with your own hands. Wood is a material with a lot of positive qualities.

The advantage of wooden frames

The main advantage of wood is ease of use. The construction of a wooden frame from timber is accessible to anyone who knows how to hold a hammer, hammer nails and screw in screws. The strength and durability of high-quality and properly processed wood is not inferior to plastic pipes. Attaching polycarbonate to beams is much easier than to arches. Simple installation, ease of replacing parts, relatively low price - all these are the advantages of wooden structures.

Less weight compared to iron allows you to make do with a lightweight foundation, and ease of processing will help you independently set the length, width, and height of the greenhouse necessary for growing crops.

Building a durable structure

Wooden greenhouse structures are exposed to the destructive effects of sunlight, insects, moisture, fungi, and microorganisms. The durability of a building depends on the processing methods, the type of wood, and its quality. Protective treatment, accessible to any summer resident, happens:

• superficial - staining;
• penetrating - impregnation with antiseptics.

Using a blowtorch, you can carry out heat treatment - light firing.

Choosing a wood species

Types of wood are divided into: soft - easy to drive a nail, hard - difficult to process. For the construction of frames it is better to use conifers trees. You can buy timber on the market.

• pine is a durable, soft, light wood. When dry, it hardly warps, and is also easy to process, paint, and impregnate;
• Spruce is close in structure to pine, but differs in a significant number of knots. Hence the difficulties in processing and high-quality impregnation with an antiseptic. The low content of resinous substances allows the paint to dry faster.
• larch is a high-density structure, the products are very durable.

Drawings of a wooden polycarbonate greenhouse

Having the drawings in front of your eyes, it is not difficult to determine the size, quantity and cost of the required building materials. Project displays dimensions structural elements, attachment points. Based graphic image a plan is drawn up for the sequence of work on the construction of the greenhouse (or, in scientific terms, the construction of protected soil). It includes:

• foundation construction;
• frame installation;
• lining of sidewalls, roof.

Make a drawing wooden greenhouse It is better to be tied to the installation location, the choice of which is made taking into account certain features.

Choosing a suitable site for construction

The yield of greenhouse crops largely depends on the location of the greenhouse. When choosing a place to build a greenhouse for polycarbonate, you should be guided by the rules of agricultural technology. Lighting promotes plant growth and fruit ripening. You cannot install a greenhouse in the shady part of the garden, next to the house or outbuildings. When attaching a structure to a house, you should pay attention to the movement of the sun. The best option would be an east-west wall.

Accumulation of water and frequent frosts make the lowlands of garden plots unsuitable for installing closed ground structures. Hills with light loams look preferable. When installing the greenhouse on a slope, the surface is leveled. Installation of a wooden structure on clay soil, where moisture accumulates, will lead to rapid rotting and deformation of the frame. Heavy loams are improved by adding humus, compost, sand - a bucket per square meter. m - for autumn digging. The greenhouse is raised 20-30 cm above the ground due to the foundation. Installing the structure away from home is not justified - watering and connecting the necessary communications are difficult.

Construction material

The material for building the foundation is determined by the type of greenhouse and the condition of the soil. Creating a reliable foundation will require the use of concrete, concrete blocks, sand, gravel, crushed stone, cement, brick, wood, and reinforcement.

Laying the foundation

A significant discrepancy between the foundation and the structure leads to deformation and destruction of the greenhouse.

When choosing a installation method, you need to take into account the type of greenhouse: winter or seasonal, service life: long or short-term, size.

If frequent frame transfers are not planned, then the foundation should be made permanent. It will give the greenhouse stability, protect it from the adverse effects of precipitation, and have a positive effect on productivity. Wooden, comparatively lightweight design, can do without a capital foundation. A small greenhouse, sheathed with polycarbonate, can be installed on a strip foundation made of timber. Easy installation and dismantling will allow you to quickly move the structure around the site.

A beam with a cross-section of 150x150mm, treated with an antiseptic, is laid in a trench 20 cm deep, the size of the greenhouse being built. Ruberoid will serve as protection against the effects of soil moisture. The rows of beams are connected with metal pins. Significant protected ground structures will require more than solid foundation. Concrete strip foundation is considered an inexpensive and practical option. A ditch 30 cm deep and 35 cm wide is dug along the perimeter of the proposed structure. The bottom is covered with a 10 cm layer of sand. Anchor bolts with a diameter of 12 mm are installed in the poured concrete along the entire perimeter. After hardening, 2 rows of bricks, roofing felt and a wide base beam are laid on the concrete, leaving free space anchor bolts.

Construction of the frame

Lower wooden elements the greenhouse frame must be impregnated with an antiseptic, parts outside treat with bitumen. Knock down the structure according to the shape of the foundation and secure it with anchor bolts to a wide base beam.

Racks are installed in the corners using timber: for lightweight greenhouses 50x50 mm, for large structures 100x50 mm is better suited.

The upper parts of the corner posts of the wooden frame of the greenhouse are connected to each other. Then vertical supports are placed along the entire perimeter at a distance of 1 m from each other, using parallel strapping. The parts are fastened together with metal corners. In a long greenhouse made of wood and polycarbonate, made with your own hands for growing tomatoes, it is better to provide 2 doors on opposite sides. For them, vertical supports are installed with a distance of 100 cm, allowing the cart to be rolled in. For better ventilation of the covered structure, vents are provided at the intersections of transverse and longitudinal structures.

The ridge beams and rafter elements are fastened with plywood overlays reinforced with metal corners.

Covering a wooden greenhouse

The correct connection of polycarbonate with a wooden frame will be the key to the long-term use of a closed ground structure. There are several mounting methods:

• profile - connecting profiles are installed on the frame into which polycarbonate panels are inserted;
• point - fastening occurs directly to the frame;
• mixed - a combination of the first two types.

When installing, it should be taken into account that with temperature changes from - 30°C to + 30°C, the size of the polycarbonate sheet changes by 4.88 mm.

The following means will save carbonate sheets from premature thermal destruction: profile connections, provided gaps, holes exceeding the diameter of the fasteners by 2-3 mm, thermal washers. Carry out work on covering the greenhouse polymer slabs better at a temperature of 18-20°C. Covering the wooden frame is accompanied by preparatory process cutting, drilling holes, end sealing.

Standard polycarbonate panels are 6 meters long and 2.1 meters wide. Cover with whole sheets wooden structure possible if the sizes match. An example is side frame structures. The cutting lines dividing the polycarbonate into separate parts of the skin are marked with a marker. Cutting is carried out using electric jigsaw or a construction knife. Remains of plastic sawdust that have fallen inside the cells must be removed using a pump or vacuum cleaner.

Drilling holes is a crucial moment. Properly prepared materials will help avoid damage to polycarbonate. workplace, which should be smooth, clean, dry. The edge of the polymer sheet is freed from protective film by 5-8 cm. The holes, after aligned markings, are drilled at a distance of 40-50 cm from one another, without touching the cells between the plates.

When all the necessary holes are made, the ends of the polycarbonate are sealed with tapes that protect against the penetration of insects, microorganisms, and moisture into the cells.

Cover with preparations wooden frame not difficult. The main thing is to check that the panels are laid correctly with the light-protective layer facing outwards and to provide a temperature gap of 5 mm.

Installation of doors and windows

The design of a wooden greenhouse covered with polycarbonate retains heat well, creates the preconditions for an increase in temperature, and therefore must include doors and windows. The purpose of the closed ground structure, the size, and the crops planted influence the design of the door. A long greenhouse has two wide (100 cm) entrances, allowing free transportation garden tools and ventilate the room. The polycarbonate blank is fixed to a door frame made of 50x50 mm beams. Handles are attached to the door and hung on the hinges. The presence of windows reduces the possibility of plants becoming infected with fungal diseases and promotes fruit set (high temperature and humidity lead to sterilization of pollen).

The design and size of the window allow the use of half-beams measuring 30x50 mm. The parts of the opening structure are connected using a tongue-and-groove method or an end connection with self-tapping screws is used. Metal corners will give the window additional reliability.

The most popular models of wooden frames

Growing vegetables in greenhouses is an integral part of gardening. Long years the use of closed ground structures made it possible to select the best models that are successfully used in garden plots. Popular types of wooden frames are:

• small standard design;
• wooden greenhouse according to Mittlider;
• wooden greenhouse under polycarbonate;
• film design;
• portable greenhouse on foundation blocks.

Small standard design

The small dimensions of a standard structure, 6x4 m, make it possible to get by with a simple foundation. To build it you need:

1. Dig a trench 0.5-0.8 m deep.
2. Drive metal corners into the corners - 100 mm.
3. Cover with a layer of sand, crushed stone, compact it, lay down any unused materials: garden path slabs, pieces of concrete curb, red brick.
4. Roofing felt is spread on top.
5. TO metal corners a 15x15 cm timber frame is attached, on which the frame is erected.
6. The finished and secured structure is sheathed with polycarbonate sheets.

Wooden greenhouse according to Mittlider

The large dimensions of the structure according to Mittlider (length - 12, width - 6, height - 2.7 meters) require a reliable foundation, namely a strip foundation - 20x30 cm. A prerequisite for a greenhouse according to Mittlider is location from east to west. Ventilation sashes of south-facing windows prevent the penetration of cold north wind, providing illumination and warmth. The design of the transoms in the upper part of the roof contributes to natural circulation air, helping to maintain the required level carbon dioxide for nutrition of filling fruits.

The strength of the frame is ensured by the frequency of the posts installed every 70 cm. The construction of the frame will require significantly more material than for a conventional greenhouse of the same size. However, it's worth it. The significant dimensions of the greenhouse provide optimal microclimate plants. Sudden changes in weather do not particularly affect temperature regime inside.

Wooden greenhouse under polycarbonate

Growing high-quality seedlings of vegetable crops, especially cabbage, requires greenhouses, which can be of various sizes. The following dimensions are considered convenient for work: width 90-110 cm, height 80-100 cm, length - depending on the area. The structure can be single-pitched, gable, or with a flat roof.

It is important, especially for a lean-to greenhouse: the structure should be located from east to west.

To build a wooden greenhouse you will need:

• boards - thickness 30 mm, width 200 mm;
• bars - 50×50mm:
• slats;
• mounting angles;
• antiseptic.

The construction of a gable greenhouse begins with leveling the surface. The boards are cut to the required sizes and the frame is knocked down. The inside of the structure is treated with an antiseptic, dried, and sheathed with roofing felt. In the middle of the ends of the box, racks are installed - a 50x50 mm block - which are fastened with corners. (If the greenhouse is longer than 2 m, it is necessary to provide a middle post for the ridge beam).

A ridge beam - 50x50 mm - is laid on the posts, secured with screws and corners. Then frames are made from square slats - 20x20 mm, according to the size of the sidewalls. Polycarbonate is attached to the frames. Ready design connected to the frame.

Portable greenhouse on foundation blocks

A do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse on a wooden frame is a fairly lightweight structure that can be moved to another location during operation. Therefore, the foundation should also involve simplified excavation and transfer. Small concrete blocks - 20x20x40 cm or a lawn block - curb 500x70x211mm - are suitable for this. Depending on the size of the greenhouse, a trench 60 cm deep is dug and the bottom is filled with sand. Blocks are placed in the corners and in the middle of all sides. A wooden beam - 150x150, impregnated with an antiseptic - is laid on them. The free space between the structure and the ground is filled with sand. Roofing felt is spread on top. An existing or newly built greenhouse can be installed on such a foundation.

Types of designs and drawings

The wooden frame and polycarbonate give room for imagination, allowing you to build greenhouses of any configuration:

• arched;
• domed
• single-pitched
• pyramidal
• gable

Make a greenhouse with the required functionality and required sizes A drawing will help. A well-executed plan includes calculation of the amount of materials, determines the order of assembly, and the dimensions of structural elements. Display on paper simplifies the choice of the shape of the structure being built and makes it clear. additional information about this or that configuration help to make the right decision.

Arched

Designs of this type are characterized by ease of assembly. Making the frame and installing the greenhouse will take a maximum of 2 days. Carbonate bends easily and does not require sealing of new seams. Transoms for ventilation are easily mounted between the transverse and longitudinal ribs.

Arched greenhouses can withstand significant snow and wind loads.

The curved surface reflects less sunlight, providing even light access. The condensation moisture from the internal surfaces flows down the walls without getting on the plants. Coating with thick cellular polycarbonate makes it possible to use in winter period. Maximum use of space inside. The ceiling semicircle facilitates the installation of lighting and sprinkler installations.

Arched structures are easily expanded by adding new sections.

Domed

The main purpose of protective soil structures is to maximize the yield of vegetable crops.

The complexity of constructing a domed wooden greenhouse, the consumption of materials and the resulting minimum effective area give an understanding: the building does not meet its intended purpose.

Inside the greenhouse you have to place beds of irregular configuration. Installing trellises becomes a pointless exercise. There is no need to talk about ease of use. Dome-shaped greenhouses have one advantage - they are a decoration of landscape design.

Single-pitch

For garden plots with a small area, lean-to structures on closed ground are more suitable. Structures of this type are installed as extensions to houses, outbuildings, and permanent fences. The greenhouse is located on the south side of the standing building. The length of the lean-to structure corresponds to the size of the wall. Height and width - depending on the number of beds of crops grown. The slope angle depends on the climate. The disadvantage of wall-mounted greenhouses, especially with a south-server orientation, will be poor lighting.

Pyramid

Passion for the secrets of the East has led to the appearance of pyramid-shaped greenhouses in garden plots. The construction of an unusual structure is carried out in compliance with special requirements. The base is a square with equilateral edges of a strictly defined length. The ribs of the frame must converge at the top - always above the center of the base. The frame is installed strictly taking into account the cardinal directions. The entrance is on the north side. An error in proportions (calculations require taking into account the ratio of the base - 1.57, and the ribs - 1.49 to the height) deprives the pyramid of its miraculous properties. Claims that the pyramidal design promotes plant health and increased yield, scientific evidence Dont Have. But even if this were so, the design itself is not suitable for producing a large harvest.

It’s probably good to grow seedlings and germinate seeds in a pyramid. It will serve as a decoration for the landscape.

Gable

Gable structures continue to be the most used in garden plots. There are two types of greenhouses:

• seasonal - used from spring to autumn;
• winter - heated.

Seasonal closed ground structures are divided into stationary and portable. Stationary ones are erected on a buried foundation. Portable, lightweight - installed on surface or freely removable bases.

Winter greenhouses - durable structures, covered with polycarbonate, on a thoroughly constructed base, with lighting and heating. Vegetables and herbs are grown all year round. One- or two-month breaks are necessary to replace soil and repair failed structural elements.

Advantages gable greenhouse time-tested.

The simple design makes it possible to construct it from easily processed materials - wooden beams. The durable structure reliably withstands wind and snow loads. The area of ​​closed ground is used to the maximum. Convenient care of crops - the possibility of increasing the doorway makes labor easier. The height of the structure allows you to work without bending. The height of the gable greenhouse promotes uniform heating and free ventilation, which makes it possible to grow any vegetable crops and even combine plantings.

The time spent on building a closed ground structure pays off handsomely. Growing garden crops becomes maximally adapted to individual characteristics owner. The width of the passages, the length of the trellises, windows, doors - everything corresponds to the exact purpose. A do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse under polycarbonate, in addition to significant cost savings - it is cheap to build - also satisfies the need to feel like the creator of a small but own space.

50+ photos of greenhouses with an opening top

Below you can view a gallery of greenhouses with an opening lid that you can make with your own hands. We collected photos from all over the Internet, below we indicated the sources from which we were able to determine the authorship.

Mounting methods

How to attach an opening greenhouse lid

How to attach greenhouse arcs or PVC pipes under film

Clamps

We insert it into the ground (Shockingly simple way!!!) The method is that we place PVC pipes on reinforcement driven into the ground. Wooden rods can be used instead of reinforcement (enough for a season) Click on the photo to enlarge

How to attach film to a greenhouse

The simplest version of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes

A very simple greenhouse design. Easy to assemble and just as easy to disassemble. It can be moved, enlarged, reduced.

It's cheap and easy to make .

Step by step photos. Click on them

How to make a greenhouse from willow or cedar branches.

This greenhouse is suitable for those who did not expect sudden frosts.

This mini greenhouse can be done in 45 minutes, according to the author of the photo.

To make the arcs, we used not PVC pipes, but cedar branches, but I think that in our conditions, willow branches will also work. The branches are tied together with nylon thread (it doesn’t matter what) to give it an arched shape. When the arches of branches are stuck into the ground, a block is attached on top of them to give one level, which is also attached to each arch.
To move such a greenhouse to another place, the author advises placing two long bars along the bases of the arcs, then tying each arc to these bars. As a result, we will get something like a stretcher. Taking such a stretcher from both ends, you can quite easily pull our greenhouse out of the ground and move it to another place.
Below you can see step-by-step photos; to enlarge, just click on them.

Telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse

Here is a very interesting version of a telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse. I moved the arches and nothing gets in the way, below you can see the fastening mechanism, click on it to enlarge.

DIY greenhouse with convertible top

Look at the step-by-step photos of making such a greenhouse. First we make a tray for the soil, then we make a frame on which we will attach the arcs, and which will recline. Then we attach this frame to the pallet on hinges and cover it with film.

Step-by-step photos of production.

Click on the gallery to enlarge

A greenhouse made of straw or hay.

As you can see, the photo shows a greenhouse, the walls of which are made of briquettes (or bales) of straw (hay). A frame with an opening top is simply piled on the straw walls. The film rolls onto the block. Such greenhouses are usually directed to the south. This design helps well when the slope of the soil on your site is directed to the north; in such cases, the sun slightly heats the earth. This kind of greenhouse will help you out in this situation..

(Dew Collector greenhouse system from Roots Up)

The greenhouse condenses up to 80 liters of water per day!!!

Soon, thanks to such greenhouses, Ethiopia will flood the world with food. The greenhouse was created for arid countries to solve the problem of drought.
During the day, steam accumulates in the upper part of the greenhouse. When night falls, special valves are opened to draw in cold air, which cools and condenses the water vapor, after which the liquid enters a special storage tank.
Excess water left after irrigation can be used for drinking.

Portable greenhouse (greenhouse) from a barrel

Easy and simple to make (45 minutes)

This portable greenhouse is suitable for growing seedlings, or plants such as parsley, cilantro, etc.

• 2 photos - we cut out square holes with a jigsaw in 1 quarter of the circumference of the barrel.
• 3rd photo - a hole with a drill so that you can insert a jigsaw.
• 4 photos - holes in the bottom to drain water from the drainage.
• 5-6 photos - attach handles on the sides for carrying.
• 7-12 photos we attach the film.
• 14 photos - drainage.

The greenhouse can be painted green to blend in with the landscape of the dacha

Portable greenhouse made of film

As you can see from the photo, the greenhouse has a lightweight version. It does not have a massive base; it is attached to the ground with reinforcement fixed to the base. It is carried as if on a stretcher using two long boards nailed to the base. It will be useful to the gardener when there is a need to cover some weak plants during a cold snap.

How to automatically open windows in a greenhouse?

A very interesting and simple design for automatically opening the window depending on weather conditions. The principle is as follows. Between the large (3L) and small (0.5L) jars there passes a tube in the form of a communicating vessel. A large jar is suspended from the base of the greenhouse, and a small one from the window. Moreover, the small one must be balanced with the window in such a way that when minimum quantity the water window must be closed. In a hermetically sealed large jar when the temperature in the greenhouse rises. Due to atmospheric pressure, water moves into a small jar, opening the window

A simple greenhouse option opening from the side .

As you can see, the design of a greenhouse made of film is very simple. Such a greenhouse can be easily moved and placed in a new location.

Dome greenhouse made from pipe scraps

it's ugly, but it works

The authors of the blog booth555.com moved to a new house, and they had to install their own sewer system. As a result, they were left with a lot of pipe scraps, which were used by an enterprising young family to create this greenhouse. The advantages of these pipes are that they are easy to bend and at the same time stable and easy to nail down.

Look at step-by-step photos of creating a greenhouse.

As I understand from the translation of the article from English, the pipes are attached to wooden crossbars using tape. I didn’t really understand about the film, the film scraps were somehow fastened together, most likely a cord was threaded through the holes, and there is also a hint in the 6th photo.

The film at the bottom is pressed to the ground with bricks, this makes it possible to lift the film up on hot days.

I could not translate the purpose of the star (in the 4th photo), but I assumed that it was attached to the dome to give stability to the structure.

Write your options for assigning a star in the comments.

Recumbent greenhouse made of double-glazed windows or frames

The author of the blog doorgarden.com made such a recumbent greenhouse on his site from glass door(a double-glazed window), which was accidentally hit by a stone from under a lawn mower.
According to the author, such a greenhouse allows him to collect greens for salads in January, well, America, I can’t say exactly what state it is.

Look at the drawing of this greenhouse. Everything is very simple. As we can see from the photo, the double-glazed window is not attached to any hinges; it simply lies, resting against the side board to prevent it from slipping.
The double-glazed window can be replaced with any large glass or window frame.

In summer, in hot weather, when there is no need for such a greenhouse, it can be thrown over the strawberries to protect the berries from birds.

Photo source: doorgarden.com

Attention!!! Important point about greenhouses made from window frames

Whatever frames you have at your disposal, the transparent roof should be made folding (lifting upward), and not hinged or folding, as on the right in Fig. Through any vertical gap, all the warm air will instantly evaporate and the plants will be hit with cold, and the horizontal one can be adjusted with supports according to the weather and local conditions.

What should be the slope of the greenhouse lid???

Note: optimal inclination slope of the roof of a lean-to greenhouse from the vertical (90 degrees) – φ, where φ – geographic latitude places; and (90 degrees)–φ is the angular altitude of the Sun at noon of the spring/autumn equinox. See below about a greenhouse with a heat accumulator.

Source of the last two paragraphs and photos: vopros-remont.ru

Cold greenhouse. (diagram-drawing)

With your own hands

Auto photo of this cold greenhouse Vince Babak, while growing vegetables for the school cafeteria, wondered if it was possible to grow fresh vegetables early winter. After studying the literature on this topic, he created this winter cold greenhouse.

The greenhouse consists of a wooden frame and a glass cover. The glass of the lid should always be tilted to catch as many rays of the weak winter sun as possible.

The author claims that even in winter in sunny weather, this greenhouse can heat up to very high temperatures, so the lid must be able to open upward. In order to regulate the temperature, a thermometer must be placed in the greenhouse (see photo 5), and there must also be a mechanism was made to fix the open lid at different angles (see photo 4).

Vegetables that can be grown in early winter in a cold greenhouse

BUT still, the main secret of such a greenhouse is not in its design, but in the plants grown in it . These should be plants that can easily tolerate cold. According to the author's research, five crops: spinach, green onions, mâché, claytonia, and carrots can be grown successfully in the northern states of the United States. And also arugula, Escarole, Mizuna, parsley, sorrel, European lettuce, mustard, spinach and turnip.

My advice: Make a cardboard sheet covered on one side with foil. At night, you can cover the greenhouse with this foil, which will reflect the heat coming from the ground back into the greenhouse.

Greenhouse made of window frame and hay

Greenhouse (greenhouse) In a plastic bottle

or "How to grow seedlings if the apartment is cold"

It often happens in our domestic apartments that for growing seedlings the room is not warm enough. A way out of this situation could be a greenhouse like this in a plastic bottle.

When sunlight enters such a greenhouse, the air in the greenhouse begins to heat up. and remains warm for a very long time, even after sunset .

An important advantage will be high humidity inside the bottles and, which will be created due to the heating of pre-moistened soil. This humidity significantly speeds up the process of seedling ripening.

The manufacturing process is simple : cut the bottle, wash it, place the soil with the seeds inside and seal it tightly with tape.

How to make a quick greenhouse with your own hands

Greenhouse made of wooden gratings

The advantages of such a greenhouse:

• - quickly erected
• - stable
• - easy to manufacture

Minuses:

Not suitable for tall plants, but can be used for growing early greens and seedlings.

Russian in-depth greenhouse on biofuel

About Russian pits

The simplest greenhouse is a lean-to greenhouse, sunk into the ground, with biological heating. For its construction, choose a dry, well-lit and sheltered place from the winds. It is desirable that it be a low slope facing south. To protect the greenhouse from the wind, green spaces, fences or special reflective screens, which are installed on the north side, can be used. Particularly convenient are the rotating flat screens, painted white, which allow you to get the most out of your solar energy. Illumination with reflected light increases the temperature in the beds by 2-3°, which is equivalent to moving your site, for example, from the Moscow region to the black earth regions of the country: Lipetsk or Voronezh.

Note: you can use any flat boards covered with aluminum foil for baking.

Construction begins with the installation of a frame around the perimeter of the greenhouse made of four sanded logs with a diameter of 10-14 cm. The northern side of the frame should be slightly higher than the south. On the south side, a groove (quarter) is selected in the trim to support the frames.

At one time, the Russian greenhouse was a revelation for European farmers. It was from the “Russian pits” that the nobility of that time received green onions, lettuce, dill, parsley, radishes, and strawberries for the table in winter.

The pit is dug to a depth of 70 cm. In diameter it has the shape of a trapezoid. In dense soils, the walls do not need to be fastened, but in loose and slumping soils, fastening with horizontal boards is used. To prevent the greenhouse from being washed away by rain, a drainage ditch is installed around it, which can be closed wooden shields, facilitating approaches.

The most convenient frames for a greenhouse are 160x105 cm in size. They are made from 6x6cm bars, connected for strength with wooden pins, and then properly painted with weather-resistant varnish PF-166 (“6 = c”). Glass is strengthened with putty or glazing bead. To drain rainwater, grooves are cut into the lower sashes.

Biofuel in greenhouses is horse or cow manure.. Horse fiber is considered the best; it gives more heat. It is harvested in the fall. Manure is collected in piles and carefully insulated on all sides with straw, sawdust, peat and covered so that the manure does not freeze. In the spring, before filling the greenhouse, it is transferred to another, looser pile and heated. To do this, make several holes in it and pour a bucket into each hot water, after which the stack is covered with burlap or matting. After two to four days, when the manure warms up to a temperature of 50-60°, the greenhouse is filled with it. The colder one is placed on the bottom, and the hotter one is placed on top and on the sides. After precipitation, a new portion is added in two to three days. The manure should lie loosely, and only at the walls it should be slightly compacted so that voids do not form.

Greenhouses - pits were usually made 3-4, which ensured year-round use: While 1 pit was warming up after refilling, the rest were producing production. An indispensable condition for the successful operation of a Russian greenhouse is the lining of the entire complex of pits clay castle With drainage ditch, otherwise the biofuel will sour.

To enlarge the photo click on it

After filling, the greenhouse is covered with frames and mats made of matting, straw or burlap. Soil is poured on top of the heated manure - garden or turf soil, compost or fertilized peat. On average, one frame requires 0.2 cubic meters. m of land. It is not recommended to exceed this amount, since under the weight of the earth the manure becomes compacted, the flow of air to it becomes difficult, and it stops burning. For the same reason, you should not over-moisten the soil.

A greenhouse of even such a simple design will make it possible to grow vegetables much ahead of schedule.

Greenhouse layout diagram

where is the best place to put a greenhouse on the site?

Since the dacha plot is mainly intended for growing vegetables and fruits, the vegetable garden should be used as efficiently as possible. However, the vegetable garden most remains inactive for a year until warmer weather arrives (since neither vegetables nor fruits can grow in winter). A building like a do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse will help solve this problem. What a greenhouse is will be discussed further.

The greenhouse is designed for growing fruits, vegetables and ornamental plants in all seasons.

The greenhouse is used to grow fruits, vegetables and ornamental plants in late autumn, winter and in early spring. The country greenhouse allows you to grow exotic plants, growing 1000 km south of your region. The greenhouse design consists of a frame covered with transparent roofing material. The frame of this structure can be built from metal, wood or plastic. As roofing material Film coating, polycarbonate and glass are used.

Choosing a place for a greenhouse

Scheme of a small wooden greenhouse.

It is best to build a greenhouse on a flat, open area where shadows from fruit trees or buildings do not fall during the day. If there is no such place on your site, do not despair; the optimal solution in such a situation is a wall-mounted wooden greenhouse. It can be attached to the southern wall of any country house building, which is in the sun most of the day and only hides in the shade in the evening.

Crops grow well in such a greenhouse short day, such as eggplants. Another option is to allocate space for a greenhouse next to low shrubs: honeysuckle, currants, blueberries. They provide little shade and root system is located deep in the ground.

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Determining the area and shape of the building

When choosing the area of ​​a greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account many factors, among which the following play a decisive role: size summer cottage, some areas simply do not allow for large greenhouses. Type of crops to be grown: Cucumbers and tomatoes require more space than peppers. You also need to decide on the amount of money you are willing to spend on. The amount of materials needed depends on the size of the greenhouse.

End greenhouse frame diagram.

The saying “the bigger the better” does not apply when choosing the size of a greenhouse. Experienced gardeners advise growing crops with the same agrotechnical characteristics in the same greenhouse. There will not be much benefit from growing cucumbers and tomatoes together. Cucumbers require high humidity, but it is destructive for tomatoes. You won’t get a big harvest even when combined with peppers. They have different temperature preferences and day length requirements. Most the best option is a greenhouse with an area of ​​3x6. It is quite compact, and the harvest is enough for a family of 6 people.

As for the shape of the greenhouse, it can be tented, arched, in the shape of a pyramid or geodome - the choice here depends on the preferences of the summer resident. The geodome shape is gaining great popularity due to its practicality. The simplest and most common option is a greenhouse with straight walls and gable roof. It can be glazed or covered with film. The walls at the height of the beds can be sheathed with boards, this will add strength to the structure and allow you to save on glass or film. It is irrational to use polycarbonate for such a building: there will be unusable residues. Therefore, it is better to make greenhouses covered with polycarbonate arched. This option is more economical: you will need two whole sheets, and the third will need to be cut in half.

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Selection of materials and tools

The frame of a greenhouse can be constructed from a variety of materials and tools, with wood being the most popular. Firstly, a wooden greenhouse will cost less than a metal one: depending on the type of coating, construction can cost from 5 to 10 thousand rubles. Secondly, its construction does not require special knowledge and skills. Thirdly, when correct operation and care, the greenhouse can last quite a long time. To build a greenhouse you will need the following materials and tools:

Scheme of foundation formwork for a wooden greenhouse made of window frames.

The frame of the building can be made of a variety of materials, wood comes first among them. Firstly, it costs less than metal: on average, costs range from 5 to 10 thousand rubles, it all depends on the type of coating. Secondly, its construction does not require any special knowledge or any special skills. Thirdly, with proper care it will last a very long time. To build a 3x6 m greenhouse you will need the following materials and tools:

• beams for the base, section 100*100;
• beams for racks with a section of 50*50;
• polycarbonate sheet 3 sheets or 20 m of film;
• saw;
• hammer;
• nails;
• screws;
• concrete solution;
• wooden formwork;
• waterproofing material.

In order to build a greenhouse, you need desire, a little knowledge, carpentry skills, a partner and one working day. The greenhouse you make will become a source of your pride and a real decoration of the site. What are the main stages of work? Construction begins with the purchase of building materials and impregnation wooden products antiseptics. They will protect the frame from rotting, cracking and mold.

Then it is necessary to level the land allocated for the building. The work must be checked at the building level. If the greenhouse will be heated, at this stage it is necessary to provide for the laying of heating pipes. Then the foundation is erected and the base of the greenhouse is built from 100*100 timber. The sides are fastened with special staples and steel corners.

The base of the greenhouse can be placed directly on the ground, but for greater reliability, you can build a foundation, waterproof it and only then install the base.

You will have to tinker a little with the construction of the foundation, but the service life of the structure will increase significantly. Then a wooden frame for the greenhouse is installed. The sequence of work on the construction of an arched and hipped structure is slightly different.

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Construction of a foundation for a greenhouse

Scheme of step-by-step instructions for making a foundation.

To build a wooden greenhouse, you can choose any type of foundation, the main thing is that it is stable and reliable. However, it is recommended to give preference to a brick or strip foundation. These bases have all the properties necessary for a greenhouse, and they are also affordable, making them the most practical option. However, if you choose from these two options, the most suitable for a wooden greenhouse is, of course, a strip foundation.

The foundation should have a depth of 40-60 and a height above the ground of 20-30 cm. The foundation must be reinforced, this will make it more durable and protect it from subsidence. Such a foundation can be built not only under, but also under any other. If you decide to move and completely dismantle the greenhouse, the foundation can be reused to build a small outbuilding. The strip foundation needs to be waterproofed, this will protect it from moisture and extend its service life. The shape of the foundation and its dimensions will depend entirely on the size of the greenhouse and the load on the foundation.

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How to make a standard greenhouse

Diagram of a wooden greenhouse covered with polycarbonate.

To build the frame you will need 4 trapezoidal blanks. The work begins with sawing the bars. 8 meter bars and 16 1.2 m bars are used. Blank racks are made from them. The edges of the joints are filed at an angle of 45°, the two bars are connected with screws. We connect the two racks together with a meter-long block. The result is a trapezoidal frame. It will need to be screwed to the base. A total of 4 such frames are made and installed in increments of no more than 1.5 m. The frame elements are connected to each other using wooden blocks. Two bars are nailed across the width from the inside of the greenhouse and on top of the transverse parts of the frame. WITH end side building, an opening is made for the door. The greenhouse can be covered with film and polycarbonate.

If you want to make a glass greenhouse, choose a traditional design with a gable roof. And this is how it is built. Attached to the base vertical racks 1.5 m high. On top, along the perimeter, bars are attached - strapping. Next, two 1.2 m bars are taken, cuts are made, the parts are screwed at an angle of 45° and connected to each other. The result is an isosceles triangle.

Then the rafters are installed at a distance of 1 m from each other. Finally, the ridge beam is nailed.