Wood chisel: a complete overview of the types of tools. What types of wood cutters are there? Types of tools by longitudinal configuration

If you want to learn curly wood carving, then you cannot do without a special tool. Since ancient times man has processed wood different ways using available means, constantly improving, and inventing a new tool. This significantly accelerated and simplified the processing process, taking wood carving to a new level. In this article we will try to fully understand the issue of choosing chisels for wood, as well as their purpose. After following all the instructions yourself, you can choose the tool for yourself individually.

A chisel is one of the most famous and popular tools for manual woodworking. It is a flat metal rod connected to a wooden, plastic or metal handle. The rod, in turn, can take various forms, with the help of which the desired result is obtained. The chisel is also equipped with a shank, which is located at the back of the handle.

Functional features of wood chisels

A tool such as a chisel has a wide range of applications on various types of wood surfaces. For example, for hard wood, a tool with a round blade is used. It is also perfect for working with horny knots. To cut or clean flatter elements, it is better to use wide chisels. Narrow chisels are perfect for cutting small grooves and designs. In addition, there is also a chisel-chisel that allows you to easily gouge a deep hole in the wood. But it’s worth mentioning that a chisel is always used in conjunction with a hammer.

There are also chisels that can cut complex patterns into wood. Such tools include cranberries, which are often used to create complex lines and outlines. The cranberry blade has a curved appearance, which allows you to create complex patterns and reliefs in the wood surface. In this case, the hole is first cut with a wide cranberry, gradually reducing the diameter of the tool, which gives the details volumetric view and refined lines. To create a flat relief with triangular grooves, woodworkers choose special chisels with an angle-shaped blade.

As we see, main function wood chisels – creating patterns and relief images. Therefore, we advise you to be extremely careful when choosing such a tool, in case you are planning to take carving seriously.

The principle of working with a wood chisel

To independently create the desired relief on the wood surface, you can use your own algorithm. However, you will need a lot of time to learn all the features of wood cutting. In this case, it is better to first study the standard scheme for working with a chisel, and then improve it, constantly refining it.

To properly process wood with a chisel, we recommend using the following decorating technique:

1. Select a workpiece for carving. It must be solid, without cracks or delaminations. During the processing process, you can pry a sliver or branch with a chisel, thereby ruining the product. A board, timber or blank is perfect as a workpiece.
2. Start leveling the plane of the workpiece. This is a preliminary stage, which consists of removing large elements and rough cleaning the surface.
3. Draw a drawing of the future carving on the workpiece. This way you can maintain the exact distance between elements, as well as the overall scale of the decorative pattern.
4. Then they proceed to the main stage - applying decorative relief. The pattern begins to be formed using cutters and chisels of different shapes and sizes, creating the main outlines.
5. After the pattern is applied, it begins to be processed. All contours and reliefs are polished and then processed by special means. To increase the service life of the product, the surface is treated with impregnation, after which varnish or paint is applied.

Most main feature In woodworking technique, of course, is the skill of cutting patterns. To get high-quality decorative relief, you need to choose the right cutters. In addition, you simply cannot do without experience here, so it’s better to practice on other blanks first.

Types of wood chisels

Before describing all the most popular types of wood chisels, we consider it necessary to mention that they all differ in the shapes and sizes of the cutters. In addition, the method of applying the thread in each case has individual characteristics, which help to achieve accuracy of drawing and shape.

All chisels for woodworking can be divided into the following types:

As you can see, each chisel has its own area of ​​application. Due to this, to create one decorative relief you may need from 1-10 different chisels. Please also note that when working with an even flat cutter, you will need a mallet. When working with twisted rods, the process of forming a relief occurs solely due to the force of pressing the tool. In addition, the size of the wood chisel is also very important, since it determines the depth and width of the groove.

If you decide to learn this craft, then first we recommend purchasing several types of chisels. Even if you were going to give such an instrument as a gift, it is better to purchase several high-quality copies at an average price. This way, you can experiment with minimal errors and errors. It is much more difficult to work with a cheap tool, and the result is unlikely to satisfy you. We recommend purchasing the following types of chisels: flat, semicircular and corner. It's also a good idea to buy several varieties of these chisels. This way you can experiment with the tool to give preference to one or another type.

• The chisel blade should be free of rust. The metal must be hardened, without unnecessary deformations and defects;
• If you purchase a tool with a non-removable handle, then pay attention to the play - there should not be any. If it is detected, keep in mind that such a tool will quickly fail;
• It is best to buy a chisel with a wooden handle. Experience shows that such a handle is more comfortable to hold. For example, a plastic handle can easily jump out of a sweaty hand;
• Check the handle for cracks. A poor-quality handle will simply fall apart after several blows with a mallet;
• the thickness of the chisel blade must correspond to the value described by the manufacturer;
• buy a chisel from classic version handles - cylindrical or conical. When working with a mushroom handle, keep in mind that it will not always be possible to tilt the tool at an acute angle;
• Always buy only high-quality tools. It may be several times more expensive, but it will save you from buying a new chisel for a long time.

Take your choice of wood chisel seriously. We advise you not to purchase a Chinese or domestic instrument unless it is a well-known company that can be recommended to you. Carefully examine the tool, and also ask the seller about the quality of the metal of the cutter. As a last resort, go to a carpentry shop, where you will most likely be advised by trusted manufacturers.

How to sharpen a chisel with your own hands

A chisel is a tool that needs to be constantly “kept in shape.” Of course, at first you will not sharpen the cutters, but over time you will definitely need to. This way, you can use the chisel every time like the first time. If notches appear on the edge of the cutter, then it’s time to think about sharpening. There is nothing complicated here, and you can do everything yourself.

The following algorithm will help you sharpen yourself:

1. Purchase one of the types of abrasive material (carborundum, fine-grained sandstone, etc.). It is best that it be in the form of a beam.
2. Moisten the block with machine oil so that it completely covers the edge on which the tool will be sharpened.
3. Place the flat part of the cutter against the block, then begin sharpening with progressive movements in one direction.
4. If you sharpen a chisel on a special machine, then you only need to press the tool against the moving circle.
5. Check the blade for burrs. If there are any, then turn it over and press the chisel against the circle to level the surface.
6. To finish sharpening, use polishing paste.

When sharpening any type of chisel with your own hands, always monitor the condition of the working surface of the tool. In this case, it is better not to rush, and after several pressings, check the plane of the cutter. Make sure that there are no distortions or other deformations on the cutter. Choose high-quality abrasive material.

We hope our tips helped you understand the features of such a tool as a chisel. Buy only high-quality chisels, keep an eye on the sharpness of the blade, then working with such a tool will be a pleasure.

One of the main tools that every woodworker and carpenter uses for cutting wood is a chisel. This tool is made of a flat steel rod with a cutting blade, with a wooden or plastic handle. If you are a beginner in carpentry, then this article is for you. Listen to our advice.

When choosing a chisel, pay attention to:

• steel quality;
• compliance with size (in millimeters) and shape;
• hardness and correct sharpening of the blade;
• cleanliness of processing;
• comfortable handle shape;
• a crimp ring made of high-quality metal should not have sharp lumps or burrs;
• its length, the shorter the chisel, the stronger it is;
• the blade should have short burrs left during sharpening;
• choose the one that is more comfortable for your hand.

On modern market There is a large assortment chisels, and in order to choose the right tool for your job, first find out about their features. The chisel happens:

• forged,
• cutting,
• stamped.

A forged chisel has a thin feather touching the cutting edge. Its feather is thicker than other types, which allows it to be used for working with harder types of wood materials.

A cutting chisel has a much smaller feather than a forged one. It is used for wood carving because it is convenient to process soft materials with great precision.

The stamped chisel differs from the previous ones in that it side faces wide.

Before choosing a chisel, you need to decide what type of woodworking you need it for:

• for geometric thread
• for sculpture and relief.

If you do geometric carving, you can use several knives - jambs. And for sculptural and relief work you will need both impact and non-impact chisels.

Impact chisels have a specially designed handle that you can hit with a mallet. Use them to work on hard wood and with large sculptures and reliefs.

For detailing work, use non-impact chisels. They are suitable for both soft and hard wood.

Use short-bladed chisels for shallow reliefs and small sculptures and for detail work because they are easy to maneuver and control.

And the thickness of the blade has great importance. The thicker the blade, the deeper and wider the cuts.

In general, you will need both power and non-power chisels with both a thick and thin blade. It would be ideal if you purchase a set of chisels of different sizes and types. If you're on a budget, buy a few individual chisels to get started. You will definitely need:

• flat chisel,
• semicircular chisel,
• cranberry (a semicircular chisel bent like a ladle),
• corner.

Choose the width or radius of the chisel according to the size of the elements of your future work.

A type of chisel is a shtikhel . It differs only in that it has a mushroom-shaped handle. They are very convenient for cutting out miniature figurines or small details big works. It cannot be picked up with both hands and you cannot hit it with a mallet.

As you have already seen, in order to purchase the best chisels, you don’t need to think long and choose while standing in front of a display case.

Main selection criteria

Remember 3 important qualities that a chisel must meet:

• durable tool
• resistant sharpening,
• reliable handle.

The durable chisel is made of high-quality steel and a high-quality handle, which are carefully processed and connected to each other.

Durable sharpening and cutting quality depend on the grade of steel from which the blade is made and on proper sharpening.

The steel must be hard and tough, preferably chrome vanadium alloy steel (chrome vanadium or CrV; ХВГ; or С105W2). Carbon steel (labeled U7 or U8) is cheaper, but it is very brittle and breaks quickly. Sometimes such marks are also on fakes, but if you are careful, you will recognize them by their low price and the absence of the manufacturer’s address.

The handle of the chisel should be strong and have a steel cap at the end, which you will hit with a mallet or hammer. Because of these strong blows Often the wood of the handle falls apart. Therefore, it is better to buy a chisel with a handle made of viscous plastic.

Of course, on the modern market there are also electric chisels with interchangeable attachments of different shapes. They are used to remove large mass wood, speeding up and facilitating the work process.

You shouldn’t shell out money for overly expensive chisels, because very often, purely by accident, you will hit metal objects with them, such as nails, screws, staples, and this will damage the blade. Choose inexpensive but high quality tools. The main thing is not to forget to sharpen them on time and keep them in order. But first of all, learn how to use them correctly, without harming your health and the integrity of the instruments.

Manufacturers

The quality of the tool and the company that produces it also play a big role. Next, let's do short review these companies and the goods they provide.

• Chisels Pfeil

The Pfeil company produces highly professional cutting tool, including surgical, in Sweden in its own factory since 1902. True, at first they produced cutlery, and they began producing woodcarving tools in 1942. This family business is now in the third generation of the Pfeil family. They value their reputation and therefore use high-quality materials with the addition of chromium and vanadium. The wood used for the handle is maple, cherry, ash, pear and hornbeam. All tools have a Pfeil engraving on the handle and a two-digit code indicating the profile/bend and edge width in millimeters.

• Narex chisels

Since 1992, the Narex Company has existed in the Czech Republic, which produces a whole range of tools for woodworking and carving at an affordable price. They produce instruments in three categories: extra, pro and simple. Judging by consumer reviews, the steel is good, hardened and holds an edge for a long time, but in all three categories there are unsuccessful examples, and the “simple” grade of chisels is generally of dubious quality.

• Chisels Stayer

Stayer was once a good Italian factory that produced quality power tools. After bankruptcy a few years ago, it was acquired by a Russian company that sells cheap Chinese and Russian instruments under this brand. So judge the quality for yourself.

• Stanley chisels

The English company Stanley (or Sheffield, made in England - as it is written on the packaging) is the pitiful remnant of the former majestic hundred-year-old company. From 1988 to this, the state-owned metallurgical enterprise was privatized, and production was sharply reduced. Since 2007, the Indian company Tata Steel has bought the entire stake, and the world-famous company has become an Indian subsidiary producing low-grade products.

• Chisels Bison

Zubr products are produced at one of the former Soviet military industrial complexes in the city of Mytishchi. But, according to customer reviews, you can compare its purchase to a lottery ticket. You never know whether you will win or not, because some details, and sometimes finished product, are of Chinese origin.

• Chisels Bosch

Like all products of this world famous company, the universal electric chisel (saws, grinds, cuts) is different high quality, but also at a decent price.

• Kirschen chisels

Since 1858, the German company Kirschen-Werkzeuge has been producing hand tools for carving known as Two Cherries. Chisels are made from durable carbon steel. Sold individually and in sets of chisels of different shapes and sizes.

• Bahco chisels

In 1889 in Sweden, Mr. Berg, who had previously made knives and hand tools at home, opened own production, buying a new factory building. In 1959 he retired and acquired the company major manufacturer wrenches and AB Bahco pliers, and the Berg brand was no longer used. The first chisels had wooden handle, but since 1950 they switched to plastic. Chisels are very popular among professional carpenters, as they are of very high quality.

For rough and fine wood processing a wide range of hand tools, some of which have an extremely simple design.

At the same time, they are indispensable in carpentry and carpentry. One of the most famous representatives of such a tool is the chisel.

A chisel is used to select wooden products and make adjustments to the dimensions of the workpieces.

However, the tool has become widespread outside the field of woodworking; its modifications are used in various industries and even in medicine.

IN last years Electric chisels are gaining popularity, combining the functions of a woodworking machine and a hand tool.

But first things first.

Purpose of the chisel

When talking about chisels, we are usually talking about woodworking cutting tools.

Its versatility is expressed in large quantities work performed, including making recesses, cleaning grooves, chamfering, applying contour and relief threads.

In addition, the tool is used for planing, and more specifically, for removing material of small thickness.

Device and characteristics

Structurally, the chisel is metal sheet with a sharp blade located at the end.

WITH reverse side there is a wedge-shaped shank, reminiscent of an ordinary nail, onto which the handle is driven.

In the classic version, the handle is made of wood, and a metal cap is installed at the point where it joins the blade.

Its purpose is to tighten the wood fibers and prevent the tool from breaking under pressure.

There are hand and impact chisels.

In the first case, cutting into the material is performed by hand pressure, and in the second case, by light blows with a mallet on the end of the chisel.

On the handles of impact mallets, in addition to the main cap on the back, there is a metal ring that acts as a headband and prevents cracking of the wood under impact loads.

Material

In the production of chisels, a durable but not brittle alloy is used.

All the requirements are fully met by tool steel grades KhVG, 9ХС and 9ХФ.

It is permissible to use steels with similar mechanical properties.

According to the method of manufacturing the canvas, they are distinguished:

• Stamped chisels.
• Forged - with increased blade thickness for processing materials with increased hardness.
• Punching – provide significant precision in processing products that have lower characteristics in terms of hardness and density.

As for the handles of chisels, in the classic version the material used for production is tough wood, for example, maple, ash, hornbeam, oak.

In addition, impact-resistant plastic or other material with similar characteristics is used.

In modern versions, the handle comes in:

• Two-component - it is based on impact-resistant plastic with rubber inserts for easy holding and to prevent hand slipping.
• Three-component. A combination of impact-resistant plastic at the ends with a softer appearance in the middle and rubber inserts or rubberized coating.

For percussion options, a metal butt plate is installed on the handle.

Dimensions and weight of the chisel

Weight is 100 – 400 g.

GOST

Technical requirements and basic dimensions of flat and semicircular chisels are regulated by GOST 1184-80, which, in turn, contains references to GOST 14959-79, GOST 5950-73 and GOST 1435-75 (technical requirements for blade steel grades), as well as to GOST 2695-83 (regarding wood for handles).

Marking

Considering that tool steel is used in production, the marking on the product looks like the inscription “chrome vanadium”, CrV or drop forged.

In this case, a mandatory condition is the presence of a mark about the manufacturer, which is a kind of guarantor of quality.

On high-quality carving chisels, the steel grade is indicated directly on the blade using the electrographic method.

Attention!

Labels like “Hardened steel” should not be trusted.

Foreign manufacturers almost always indicate in the marking the elements present in the alloy, conventionally designated, for example, as W+Cr+V, or Cr+W, simply Cr or W.

The steel grade itself is also often indicated, for example, 86CrMoV7 or 62SiMnCr4.

Types of chisels and their prices

The names of chisels almost completely determine their features and the nature of the work for which they are intended.

This is how a chisel for working wood is:

• Manual - cutting into the material occurs from hand pressure on the handle.
• Impact - cutting into the material occurs by applying light blows with a mallet to the end of the handle, which has a metal butt plate.

A classic chisel has a shaft length of 150–170 mm, while a shortened one has a shaft length of 65–85 mm.

The following chisels are distinguished by purpose:

Carpentry

For fine and precise processing of workpieces, for example, a figured chisel, which allows you to carve hard and soft wood.

The latter include spruce, poplar, and linden.

Plotnitskaya

For rough, rough processing of workpieces of various types of wood.

Turning

For manual machining of rotating parts lathe, more often they are called turning tools.

According to the shape of the longitudinal section of the blade, the chisel can be:

Straight

The most common option is with a straight blade and blade, like a ruler.

Curved

With a longitudinal bend of the entire blade and blade.

With a sharp bend of the blade in the longitudinal direction, the beginning of which is located almost at the end of the straight blade. Used, for example, when cutting into door locks.

If the blade of the tool is sharpened on the reverse side, the corresponding classifier word is added to the name, for example, reverse cranberry.

By the way, reversible blades allow you to create convex parts of decorative relief.

According to the cross-sectional shape of the canvas, the chisel can be:

Flat

With a straight flat cross profile. It can be both wide and narrow, thick and thin (according to the parameters of the canvas).

The shape of the blade can be either oblique or straight. In the latter case, the cutting edge is perpendicular to the blade. Used when rough processing and creating straight lines.

Oblique

The previous version has a cutting edge that is beveled relative to the perpendicular to the blade.

This angle of attack makes it easier to cut into the wood base, increasing roughing speed.

Corner

The transverse profile is made in the shape of an angle (the letter “V”). The angle itself, as a rule, is between 60 and 90 degrees.

With this tool you can make contour and relief carvings, and they can also be used to assign the contour of the future workpiece.

Radial

The cross section is made in the shape of a semicircle. Hence another name - semicircular chisel.

It is designed to perform accurate and smooth penetration into the material, which is probably why it is considered the most popular and in demand.

Such models are used for carving along a contour that has irregularities, where there are no sharp or right angles. The cutting part comes in two shapes: flat and sloping, and can also have a different radius of curvature.

Bracket (box-shaped)

The cutting edge is straight and has sides different heights, and different angles between these elements.

Suitable for even, narrow samples of material.

In structure it is close to the semicircular varinate, but has a significantly smaller thickness. This figure instrument used in artistic carving.

Price The types of instruments described above are not very different from each other.

As a rule, the average price is 300 – 700 rubles per unit, and it depends, first of all, on the quality of the materials and the brand itself.

So there are models costing 1,300 rubles and more.

At the same time, the promotion of the manufacturer’s company affects pricing not in the least.

For comparison, a set of “Tatyanka” chisels for hand carving made of U10A steel (made by milling, 12 elements included) with a beech handle will cost about 10,000 rubles, that is, approximately 800 rubles each. a piece.

At the same time, Japanese ones are produced differently from traditional technology made (double-layer steel with a hardness of 60 HRc), with a handle made of Japanese red oak.

For a similar set from Hattori (10 pieces) you will have to pay about 12 - 13 thousand rubles, which is already 1200 - 1300 rubles per piece.

However, the latter can be sharpened to razor sharpness.

Sets with more tools, of course, cost more.

In addition to tools for wood processing, there are options for work:

• For metal - an impact version of the tool with a specific sharpening configuration that allows you to process soft metals, for example, aluminum.
• For stone - a percussion tool, used for chipping material. A stone chisel is also suitable for giving the workpiece a fine faceted shape.
• For concrete - actually a chisel, but with a different configuration of the working part, including a semicircle. In most cases it has Victory solder, acts as an attachment for a hammer drill.

Electric chisel

Along with the usual tool, they actively use its electrical modification, which is called an electric chisel, also known as a renovator.

The working element is a special attachment made in the form of already familiar chisels, which is selected depending on the type of work.

This universal machine is also called an electric chisel, multi-cutter or electric scraper.

The electric chisel has high performance and allows you to perform precise fine carvings.

Price similar models 5 – 9 thousand rubles.

In turn, it happens:

• Network - powered from a household network.
• Rechargeable – powered by a removable battery.

In addition to standard ones, there are also special chisels:

Surgical

The instrument used in medicine is made of surgical steel.

Vivid examples are the otolaryngological chisel for rhinoplasty and the Vojacek grooved chisel, which is used for trephination of the mastoid process using the hammerless method.

Pasichnaya

A tool for the daily work of a beekeeper.

A multifunctional chisel with a nail puller function and devices for lifting glued frames is called “European”.

Price – about 300 rubles.

For loops

A specially designed tool designed for knocking out rounded corners seats under door hinges and locks after milling them. It is also called a corner chisel, but structurally it is very different from the tool of the same name described above.

The domestic modified version is the chisel of Pavel Soldatov, named, in fact, by the manufacturer.

The cost of the latter is around 3,400 rubles.

Plastic

For repairing car wheels, or more precisely, for cleaning protrusions, removing bumps and burrs from the tire.

An alternative name is a chisel-scraper.

Essentially an exact replica of a flat, straight instrument, but made entirely of plastic.

Price – about 200 rubles.

Pocket

An option that resembles a multitool in design, however, without additional tools.

In fact, this is a folding chisel, where, when folded, the blade is located between the halves of the handle.

This allows you to safely transport and store the tool, for example in a pocket or bag.

Cost – from 600 rubles.

Mini chisel

A miniature version of a full-size tool, mainly used for fine carving on soft materials.

Beweiler (Beveller)

A flat-cut tool designed to thin leather at folds.

Alternative names are edge cutter or French chisel.

Cost – from 200 rubles.

Chisel-chisel

A percussion type of tool used to gouge out excess parts of material.

Power sculpture knife (jamb knife) designed for relief geometric carving.

Each of the wood processing tools listed above has its own area of ​​application, and therefore to create just one decorative relief you may need up to 10 different types of it, in addition, different sizes.

Which chisel should you choose?

The following criteria will help you choose good tool for home:

You should not pay attention to unknown domestic and Chinese manufacturers.

Even if the steel can withstand severe mechanical loads, problems may arise with the handle, because... It is the most fragile part of the structure.

In addition, a high-quality blade of a branded tool will not have to be sharpened often.

The optimal length of the tool blade is 100-150 mm.

It matters how it was made.

Thus, die-cut models ensure accuracy high level when processing materials with low hardness and density.

Stamped chisels require a thrust washer.

Otherwise, when struck with a mallet, the handle will “fit onto the shank” and will collapse over time.

NOTE:

There are two types of handle mounts: with a shank and with attached cones-skirts. The latter are a priority, as they are able to withstand heavy bending, torsion loads, as well as direct and lateral impacts, which when performing various works plays an important role.

What you need to know about chisels?

A forged shank is always better.

The reason for this is that the hardness of the material is more evenly distributed throughout the chisel.

It can be determined by the characteristic flow lines of the metal.

Otherwise problem area becomes the transition zone of the shank to the blade, where stress concentration is observed, which will eventually lead to the formation of cracks.

Chisel manufacturers

The following manufacturers are considered time-tested:

• Sandwik,
• Bahco,
• Narex,
• Anchor.

The latter should be purchased only if it is made in Russia, and not in China.

Also popular:

• SANTOOL,
• Stanley,
• Sturm,
• Trumper,
• Unipro,
• VIRA,
• Hardax,
• Hart,
• Irwin,
• COBALT,
• TOPEX.

Handling a chisel.

Let's look at how to sharpen a straight chisel. First you need to get a sharpening angle of 20° and an even flat chamfer. The sharpening angle is checked by the width of the chamfer, which should be 2.5 times the thickness of the blade. So, with a blade thickness of 5 mm, the chamfer width should be about 13 mm. Having obtained the required chamfer width, sharpening is continued not on a sharpener, but on a fine-grained whetstone. They sharpen with smooth movements back and forth, trying to keep your hand at the same height so as not to fill the chamfer. The burr formed during turning is removed by several movements of the blade along the block. They straighten the chisel on the whetstone, making the same movements as when sharpening. They just straighten it much longer than sharpen it (until a smooth, shiny surface of the cutting part is obtained). It is recommended to sharpen chisels and grind their surfaces on a microcorundum block, and to edit them on a smooth leather belt using GOI paste. A felt circle is also used for this. Narrow straight chisels are moved in different directions during the sharpening process, otherwise they form a groove in the block. They are corrected by weight. The jamb knife is sharpened and trimmed using the same techniques as a straight chisel. A semicircular chisel is sharpened on a sharpener or whetstone, slowly turning it from side to side and moving it from right to left. The resulting profile hole in the block will give a chamfer correct form. The inner surface of the chisel is sharpened with a rounded block on a table or suspended. Semicircular chisels are used only by weight. Small chisels are sharpened on fine-grained whetstones and wheels. It is advisable to have separate whetstones and bars for each profile. The sharpening of tools is checked by cutting samples on soft smooth board. If there is a smooth and shiny mark, sharpening is considered complete. When sharpening a carving tool, you must adhere to some rules: do not make sharp passes with your hand, do not press hard on the tool. Chisels should be stored suspended, for which it is recommended to nail a strip with profile holes for the tool to a wooden panel. The tool storage area must be dry. For better preservation of the blade and blade, chisels are lubricated with a thin layer of machine oil.

Techniques for working with a chisel: a - trimming ends; b - stripping the spikes; c - stripping the socket for the loop; d - cutting grooves along a ruler; d, f - chamfering; g, i - processing of curved surfaces.

The structure of a chisel.

1 - canvas; 2 - cap; 3 - handle

Chiseling.

Chiselling is a type of cutting and is characterized by the fact that chips are removed by constantly deepening the cutter into the product. There are two types of chiselling: simple and shaped.

An example of simple chiselling is the cutting of a rectangular groove, an example of a shaped groove is the chiselling of the fuselage cabin of a museum model. Semicircular chisels and chisels are used as chiselling tools. various sizes. Unlike working with chisels, chiselling is done not with hand pressure, but with the help of a mallet.

Mallet - a wooden or rubber hammer used to strike the handle of a chisel. Mallets come in rectangular and round shapes and are made from the hardest types of wood.

Types of chisels.

Straight chisel

For wood carving, straight chisels are used, which vary in width of the blade. Depending on the purpose, the width of the canvas can be from 3-5 mm to 55-60 mm. The most common canvases do not go beyond the boundaries of 7-30 mm. The thickness of the canvas can also be different - from 1 mm to 5-7 mm, depending on the width of the canvas. The thickness of the chamfer itself varies from 5 mm to 15 mm. Straight chisels, as a rule, are single-phase only. Straight chisels are used to cut out recesses various shapes, leveling the surface plane.

The dimensions are flat thick chisels.

Chisels are used to gouge out sockets and eyes in thin parts, clean out sockets and grooves, form chamfers, remove burrs and other operations. Chisels come in the following types: flat, thick, with and without a chamfer (Fig. 1,a); flat thin with and without chamfers and, in addition, semicircular (Fig. 1, b).
The length of flat thick chisels is 255, 265, 285 mm, width is 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 18, 20, 25, 30, 40 and 50 mm; thickness 3 and 4 mm. The length of flat thin chisels is 265 and 285 mm; width 12, 15, 18, 20, 25, 30 and 40 mm; thickness 3 mm. The length of semicircular chisels is 255, 265 and 285 mm; width 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 20, 25, 30 and 40 mm; thickness 2, 2.5 and 3 mm.

Fig. 1 Chisels: a - thick flat (with or without chamfers), b - semicircular with external and internal sharpening

Semicircular chisels

Semicircular chisels seem to be more specific for wood carving. They are necessary where you need to make a semicircular recess or smooth lines that cannot be made with straight chisels. The main difference between semicircular chisels is the width of the blade and the radius of its circumference, as well as the size of the radius: the smaller the radius, the greater the depth of a given chisel. Depending on this, semicircular chisels are divided into steep, sloping and deep, or cerasics. For a beginning carver, it is enough to have 2 semicircular chisels with a blade width of approximately 10-12 mm, one of which should be steep and the other should be sloping. A steep chisel is used to remove wood and make holes. A sloping chisel is necessary for cutting the contours of figures in the ornament.

Angle chisels

The differences between corner chisels lie in the width of the blade and the size of the angle itself. The angle of the chisel can range from 45 to 90 degrees. The main use of corner chisels comes down to making recesses and drawing the outline of the original drawing along pencil lines, which are quickly erased during work and become invisible.

Cranberry chisels

There is another type of chisel called cranberries. Such chisels are divided into several types: straight, semicircular and coal. They differ from other chisels in the curved shape of the blade. The difference also lies in the width of the canvas. Semicircular cranberries also differ in radius, and angular ones - in angle. The nature and magnitude of the bend are important. The main use of such chisels is to select wood in hard to reach places or at a sufficiently great depth - where it is impossible to use a regular chisel. For wood carving you need several narrow cranberries: straight, deep, semicircular and charcoal. Carving tools are quite rare in stores, so most craftsmen make everything they need for carving themselves. At home, it seems easiest to make wood carving tools from standard industrial chisels. Semicircular and corner chisels can be made from standard chisels with blade widths of 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 16 mm. To do this on gas burner or blowtorch Anneal the end of the blade with a standard chisel and then cool slowly. Now firmly clamp the resulting workpiece in a vice and saw off the very tip of the industrial chisel with a metal hacksaw. Then use a round file to sharpen a groove of the required size on the workpiece blade, then use a regular flat file to sharpen the blade on the other side.

Safety precautions.

It is forbidden:

1) Carry out chisels with a chisel without casing rings;

2) Use a chisel instead of a chisel;

3) Cut with a chisel in the direction of the supporting hand towards you, in weight, with the part focusing on the chest;

4) Process the part with a chisel on your knees;

5) Hand the chisel to another person with the sharp end;

6) Do other work while holding a chisel in your hand;

7) Leave the chisel on the edge of the workbench, as if they fall, you can get injured; These tools must be in a strictly designated place (in a tray) and stored in a cabinet.

Control questions:

1. How is a chisel different from a chisel?

2. Why can’t you hit a chisel with a hammer?

3. What types of chisels are there?

4. What is the sharpening angle for a straight chisel?

5. What does a chisel consist of?

6. Why do you need to deviate from the drawing line when chiselling?

7. In what range can the angle of a corner chisel fluctuate?

8. Why can’t you handle a part with a chisel on your knees?

9. How should a chisel be presented correctly?

10. What is the purpose of a chisel?

The profession of cabinetmaker has always been in demand and prestigious. Today, the ability to make beautiful wood carvings can be not only in a great way earn good money, but also an exciting hobby. But in order for wood carving to bring joy and not be burdensome, you will need a special tool.

All wood carving tools must be made of good steel.

Today, a set of tools for a cabinetmaker should contain devices for the following types of work:

• threads;
• sawing off;
• splitting and trimming;
• planing;
• turning;
• chiselling.

To have an idea of ​​how wood is processed, it is necessary to consider each of the tools in more detail.

Woodworking tools

Typically, all types of devices designed for working on wooden surfaces are called cutters. This can include all cutting blades, saws, axes, chisels, specialty planes and more. Each of the tools is designed for a specific type of processing wooden blank.

Each cabinetmaker individually selects a tool that suits his needs and tastes. But if a person has no experience in wood processing and is just starting to engage in this type of activity, it is advisable to follow the recommendations of knowledgeable craftsmen.

Wood cutting tools

The manufacture of any item from wood begins with cutting out the blank. Wood cutters are sharp blades that usually produce shavings or sawdust as they work. When processing wooden surfaces manually, saws, jointers, one-handed planes, etc. are used. These are tools that allow you to work “on your own.” That is, the movement of the master’s hand goes in the opposite direction from the body.

In many foreign countries Wood processing is carried out using the “pull” method, when the direction of movement is towards the body of the master. As a rule, tools specially made for this method of work are used for this - hacksaws, saws, etc. These are double-sided cutters, two-handed plows and spoon cutters.

It must be remembered that it is extremely undesirable to cut with many devices, for example, chisels or knives: this can lead to serious injury.

Another rule used by cabinetmakers is also known: if you need to process a large area wooden surface, the “pull” method is used, during which the work is facilitated by the energy of a moving axe, saw or plane. A cutter such as an adze, which is used only by the “pull” method, using hand movements, is not suitable here.

How to cut blanks

To cut wood, multi-cutting devices called saws are usually used. They, in turn, can be longitudinal, transverse or universal sawing. Thus, saws designed for cross cutting have sharp triangular teeth, each of which consists of two edges for carving to the right or left. Ripping saws are equipped with chisel-shaped teeth. This shape allows the teeth to accumulate sawdust among themselves and remove them from the body of the wood. Saws universal purpose have teeth shaped right angle, which are capable of cutting fibers both crosswise and lengthwise and at an angle.

Each type of saw is divided into the following varieties:

• simple;
• hacksaws;
• one-handed.

Mechanical saws come in band saws, two-hand saws, gasoline-powered saws, and circular saws.

Typically, sawing out the workpiece is done using cross-cut saws, cross-cutting is done with one-handed or two-handed saws, and processing is done with hacksaws, compass saws or bow saws. For rough woodworking, saws with large cutters are used, and for precision processing, fine-toothed ones are used.

Splitting and planing of wood

Axes: a – Plotnitsky; b – Joiner; c – Rezchitsky; d – Cleaver; d – Tesla for making recesses; e – Tesla for sculptural carving.

To make blanks from bars, logs or trunks, the following types of wood cutters are used: axes and cleavers. A splitting ax is a heavy ax that is used when cutting ridges is necessary. Together with the cleaver, metal or wooden wedges are used, which are driven into the body of the wood and thereby facilitate its splitting. Already made workpieces are hewn using household (carpenter's) light axes, which are convenient to carry on the belt in special cases.

To trim the surface of a wooden workpiece, an adze is used - a type of ax in which the blade is perpendicular to the ax handle. This is a necessary cutter for making concave or shaped products. If necessary, you can make an adze with your own hands from a thick steel plate with a sharpened and curved edge.

Planing of straight and curved surfaces

Planing tool for woodworking.

Planing is the cutting of wood from the surface. thin layers shavings. This process requires the use of hand or lathe tools the following type: knives, two-handed plows with straight or semicircular blades, planes, sherhebels. Finish planing is usually done with planes that have a single or double blade mounted in a body made of metal or wood. The thickness of the chips depends entirely on how far the blade or housing is extended. The smaller the distance, the thinner the wood chips.

To make curved or rounded parts, such as, for example, rivets for a barrel, special planes that look like a convex knife are used. For workpieces concave across the plane, humpback planes are used. There are also planes for making edges and narrow grooves for panels or boards.

Types and purposes of chisels

Chisels are the most popular look cutters for wood processing. Typically, for cutting wood, devices are used that are steel rods with a flat surface, a sharp cutting blade and a shank. The shank is fixed to wooden handle with a ring.

Each type of chisel has its own purpose. Thus, straight and wide devices are used for stripping or cutting convex or even workpieces. Narrow tools are designed for processing wood in narrow areas of parts. To work with hardwood or horn knots, straight chisels with round blades are used. If you need to clean a tree with a hollow or deep cavity, use a chisel-chisel with a thick steel rod. Besides, necessary tool in this case, a mallet will serve, with which the chisel will be driven deep into the wood.

Chisels are very good for cleaning wood from unnecessary fractions, but the main purpose of these tools is to cut out complex products. To create various grooves in the body of wood, cranberries are needed - chisels with curved or groove-shaped blades. They allow you to create a recess of the desired radius and depth. Initially, the hole is cut with the widest cranberry, then a smaller cranberry is used, then an even smaller one, etc.

In addition, the work of a cabinetmaker is unthinkable without the use of corner chisels. Using this tool, triangular recesses and grooves are cut, most often used in flat-relief carving.

Using special cutters

In addition to all the described devices, wood carvers also use other equipment. For example, volumetric cutting used in the manufacture works of art, requires the use of spoon incisors. Such tools were developed centuries ago. The design of the cutters allows them to be used using the “pull” method both along and across the wood fibers.

Just as often as a spoon device, a double-sided cutter in the shape of the letter “T” is used. This tool is usually used to process workpieces for large-sized products. Spoon-type cutters are used for cutting out wooden circles, from which plates, other utensils, and much more can subsequently be made.

The success of both an amateur woodcarver and a professional largely depends on the quality of the tool. That is why it is necessary to first acquire all the necessary equipment, and only then get to work.