Insulation thickness for permanent residence in a frame house for different regions. What temperatures can a frame house withstand? Some characteristics of insulation

What should be the thickness of the walls? frame house For winter accommodation in him? There is a clear answer to this question. at the same time, he is not there. Why? Because minimum thickness walls of a frame house for winter living depends on the region where you built this structure.

Let's sort everything out piece by piece. Depending on what region you live in, you will need a certain thickness effective insulation to keep the inside of your home warm during the winter.

If you live in a warm region, then a thickness of 50 mm of foam or basalt wool will be enough for you. If you live in the North, then 150 mm of insulation will not be enough for you; you will need 200 or 250 mm. Any less will lead to excessive consumption of fuel or energy for heating your home.

How to find out what the minimum and optimal thickness walls? Very simple. For this purpose, there is a table on the thermal resistance of enclosing structures for each region of Russia.

This table shows the R indicators, which, according to the new SNiP standards, developers must adhere to when building or reconstructing residential buildings.

Use this simple formula calculating the thickness of insulation depending on its thermal conductivity indicators:

R = p/K, where p is the thickness of the insulation (in meters), R is the thermal resistance of the wall for a given region, K is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the insulation.

This way you will get its minimum thickness. In a frame house, the thickness of the insulation is actually equal to the thickness of the wall. This way you will know what thickness it should be for winter living in it.

Calculation example. We are building frame house in the Volga region. Indicator R = 2.1 m2*C*W for this region. We use it as insulation basalt wool with thermal conductivity 0.056 W/(m*C). We calculate according to the formula given above. We find that the thickness of the frame wall with insulation should be at least 12 centimeters.

Note. The thermal resistance of a wall differs from the same indicator for attic and basement floors, as well as windows and doors. For example, for the same region, the thermal resistance for floors will be equal to R = 3.2 m2*C*W. This means that the minimum thickness of the ceiling insulation will be already 18 centimeters.

To imagine what the wall pie of a frame house with mineral wool as insulation looks like, just look at the diagrams located on this page. For different conditions...

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Question:

Builders I know say that 150 mm of mineral wool is enough to insulate a frame house. However, I read on forums that 20 cm is the minimum to avoid freezing in the Siberian winter. Who is right?

Answer:

Let's proceed from the understanding that a residential building is not just half-wall-ceiling, but rather a complex system that both gains and loses heat. You can, of course, start drawing formulas, giving thermal calculations, but I will say it more simply - you need to maintain a balance of the cost of achieving the required level of heat loss.

For example, if you live somewhere in Novosibirsk or the region and you have gas installed on your property, I believe that the best option for a frame house there will be “Finnish” technology and the following insulation pie (from the inside to the outside) is quite sufficient:

"ecowool" 50 mm thick, applied in an internal cross frame, applied wet- glue method;
mineral insulation in racks 150 mm thick if you use ventilation with a heat recuperator or 200 mm if not;
MDVD 22 mm for wood or vinyl siding or 40 mm for plaster.

In this case, it is highly advisable to follow the following recommendations:

ceiling height no more than 2.7 m;
not at all “French” windows with a good five-chamber profile with a width of at least 70 mm and double-glazed window filled with argon and internal low-emissivity glass (I-glass);
the correct external insulated door, "Finestra" type.

Then you will be guaranteed warmth even during periods of bitter frost, comfortable for the ears due to excellent sound insulation and optimally balanced in price/effect, while heating costs will pleasantly surprise you;)

In addition to the above, I strongly recommend that you familiarize yourself with a comparison of the characteristics of walls made of various materials and various designs.

There is an excellent calculator that will allow you to calculate required thickness thermal insulation of your frame house, taking into account the region - I highly recommend it! Just don’t forget that the wall consists not only of insulation, but also of posts and strapping, and these are “cold bridges”!

And we must take into account that in the case of a floor on joists with an unheated foundation (MZLF, screw piles, etc.), insulation is also needed in the joist/grillage space, and at least 50 mm thicker than in the walls. And put 100 mm more insulation in the ceiling than in the walls - you won’t regret it, since it is the ceiling that provides the greatest relative heat loss, because the air masses tend upward as they heat up!

IN last years For the construction of houses, frame construction is increasingly being chosen, which is significantly cheaper in cost compared to the construction of brick, block, or log walls. In addition, the process of installing the frame takes much less time than raising main walls. However, without proper insulation it will be impossible to live in such a house. Therefore, the question of which insulation is best for a frame house becomes relevant for all potential owners of such housing.

Thermal insulation in frame buildings should not only provide comfortable temperature regime indoors, but also to make the house quiet at the same time. Thus, insulation materials must also have good soundproofing qualities. In addition, there are a number of other important criteria, which must be taken into account when choosing materials for insulating the “frame”. All this will be discussed in this publication.

Basic criteria for choosing insulation for a frame house

The first step is to understand what properties the insulation must have in order for it to be effective for heat and sound insulation. frame walls home and is as safe as possible for the people living in the building.

So, it is necessary that the material meets the following requirements:

It should go well with the frame material, that is, with a wooden beam.
Optimal material – as clean as possible from an environmental point of view
Insulation should be selected for the longest service life, which should be no less than the service life of the wood chosen for the construction of the frame.
Moisture resistance, that is, the ability to resist the absorption of moisture (as a percentage of volume or mass), which can have a destructive effect on the material and sharply reduce its insulating qualities.
Thermal conductivity coefficient - the lower it is, the better insulation, because main function thermal insulation is to minimize heat loss.
Vapor permeability. Ideally, the material should be “breathable”, that is, not prevent the escape of water vapor. Only in this case, moisture will not accumulate in its structure and at the border between it and the wall surface, which becomes a favorable environment for various microflora - fungus, mold, etc., which can cause serious harm to the structure.
The insulation should not attract rodents, otherwise they will settle in it on permanent place residence, making passages and arranging nests.
For frame houses Fire safety is of particular importance. Ideally, the material should be non-flammable, or at least as resistant to fire as possible.

Thermal insulation materials can be divided into three types according to the method of application - these are backfill, sprayed and slab (roll), installed between frame racks.

Loose-fill insulation materials include expanded clay, foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.
Sprayed heat insulators - polyurethane foam and ecowool, applied using “wet” technology.
Plate or roll insulation - polystyrene foam various types, mineral wool, foam glass, linen, wood fiber and cork boards.

Each of these materials has its own characteristics and differs in technical and operational characteristics. To make a choice, it is necessary to consider each of them in more detail, both in terms of its main qualities and from the standpoint of ease of use.

For thermal insulation frame buildings apply modern materials and traditional ones, familiar to builders for decades. Since all insulation materials were classified above into three groups according to the method of their application, their characteristics will be discussed further in accordance with this division.

Loose-type insulation

This type of material is used in construction for thermal insulation of walls, ceilings and floors along joists. These include expanded clay, granulated foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is natural material, which has been used to insulate various areas of the building for a very long time, and has fully justified its purpose. It is produced in the form of gravel (granules) of different fractions, sand and crushed stone.

Expanded clay is used in construction not only as backfill insulation, but also in combination with concrete mortar. The latter option is called expanded clay concrete and is most often used as an insulating layer under concrete screed floors of the first floor on the ground.

Expanded clay is produced from refractory clays, which undergo special heat treatment high temperatures, are brought to melting, swelling and sintering of the material. As a result of these processes, expanded clay granules acquire a porous structure, which provides the material with low thermal conductivity. Expanded clay has the following characteristics:

High level of thermal insulation. Expanded clay is made from clay, which is one of the “warm” natural materials, and the air structure of the granules helps reduce the thermal conductivity of the clay.
It has a low weight, which is ten times lower than the weight of concrete. Therefore, it is suitable for insulating light buildings, since it does not place a large load on the foundation and wooden formwork, into which it is filled.
The material is absolutely environmentally friendly - it does not contain any synthetic or toxic substances.
Expanded clay is inert to chemical and biological influences.
The material is vapor-permeable, that is, it is “breathable” and prevents the walls from becoming waterlogged.
The moisture resistance of the material is important - it does not absorb or retain water.
Expanded clay will not create any problems for people prone to allergic reactions.
The material can easily withstand very low winter and high summer temperatures without losing its insulating properties.
The insulation is not flammable. It does not support combustion and does not emit smoke, even if it gets into an open fire, so it can be called a fireproof material.
Rodents and insects do not live in expanded clay, which makes this material indispensable for insulating a private home. Fine-grained expanded clay is even often used to make an embankment under a house, as it helps protect the structure from mice.
Long service life. It is difficult to talk about any specific time periods, but the frame house itself will definitely survive such insulation.

Expanded clay has its own letter and number marking from M300 to M700, but unlike other building materials, it does not indicate strength, but the bulk density of the insulation, which depends on its fraction.

Expanded clay sand has a grain fraction of 0.13÷5.0 mm; it is used for backfilling as insulation into walls of relatively small thickness, up to 50 mm.
Expanded clay gravel has a fraction of 5÷50 mm, and it is excellent for the production of expanded clay concrete.
Expanded clay crushed stone differs from gravel in that it has an angular shape. It is obtained by crushing or rejecting gravel mass. The crushed stone fraction size can vary from 5 to 40 mm.

The use of expanded clay for insulating frame walls can be considered a completely justified option, since this material combines excellent performance characteristics and ease of installation - they can be used to insulate structures of any shape. It should be noted that this material is suitable not only for backfilling wooden wall frames, but also three-layer brick or reinforced concrete enclosing structures.

The disadvantage is that the thermal insulation performance is not very outstanding compared to other materials. If expanded clay is chosen as insulation, then in order to achieve the desired effect, the thickness of its layer must be at least 200÷300 mm, or it can be used in combination with other heat-insulating materials.

Foam glass in granules

In addition to the well-known expanded clay, foam glass produced in granules is used in approximately the same way.

Foam glass is not used as widely as expanded clay, although it has higher thermal insulation properties. Apparently, this is due to the lack of information about this material. This material has been produced at Russian enterprises since the 30s of the 20th century, and it is intended specifically for insulating buildings. Foam glass can be purchased in bulk or in the form of slabs. The loose material is used to insulate sections of the building structure - it is poured into the space of floors along joists, attic floors, and also into the cavities of frame walls.

In addition, granulated foam glass is mixed with concrete to provide insulation under the screed.

The material is an environmentally friendly product, as sand and broken glass are used for its production. The raw material is ground to a powder, then mixed with carbon. The last component promotes foaming of the mixture and gas formation - this process makes the material porous, air-filled and light. Granules are made in special ovens with rotating chambers, into which blanks - pellets - are poured in advance. The fraction of granules can be different - large, having a size of 8÷20 mm, medium - 5÷7 mm and small - 1.5÷5 mm. The main characteristics of this material are presented in the comparative table at the end of the publication.

Prices for expanded clay

expanded clay

Foam glass is a chemical- and biological-resistant, moisture-resistant, hard material. In addition, it does not collect or emit dust, and does not contain substances to which allergy sufferers are sensitive. The hardness of the material and the absence of any nutrients protects it from rodents.

The only disadvantage of bulk foam glass is its high cost. True, if you carefully calculate the “accounting” of insulation and compare it with cheaper expanded clay, then it’s still worth looking at which material will be more profitable.

Loose foam glass is laid in the same way as expanded clay.

Ecowool (dry installation)

This material can be considered a relative novelty in the field of insulation, but it is gradually gaining popularity due to its advantages. To insulate frame structures, ecowool is used in two versions - in dry form, backfilled in a cavity, or using “wet” technology - sprayed on the surface. The second method requires the use of special equipment, while the first can be done on your own.

Ecowool is a mixture of paper production waste and cellulose fibers, which occupy about 80% of the total mass of the insulation. In addition, the material contains a natural antiseptic - boric acid, which occupies up to 12%, as well as a fire retardant - sodium tetraborate - 8%. These substances increase the resistance of the insulation to external influences.

Ecowool goes on sale in hermetically sealed plastic bags, in loose form, so if you choose a dry method of wall insulation, it can be used immediately.

Ecowool has the following characteristic features:

Low thermal conductivity coefficient. The cellulose from which this insulation is mainly composed has all the qualities of wood, which has been used for hundreds of years to build residential buildings precisely because of the natural warmth of the material.
The lightness of the material, even when moistened, allows it to be used for thermal insulation of frame structures.
This is an environmentally friendly insulation material that does not emit harmful fumes throughout the entire period of operation.
Pronounced vapor permeability. Ecowool does not retain moisture in its structure, therefore it does not require vapor barrier, which allows you to save some money when building a house.
Ecowool is resistant to biological influences, as it contains an antiseptic additive, as well as to chemicals.
This insulation can absorb moisture even up to 20% of the total mass, but does not lose its heat-insulating qualities. Here it must be said that moisture is not retained in the structure, since the material is “breathable”.
Resistant to low temperatures, that is, the frost resistance of cotton wool.
Despite the fire retardant included in the insulation, the material belongs to the G2 flammability group, that is, low-flammable and self-extinguishing. That is, the smoldering of the material cannot be ruled out, but it will not become a flame spreader.
Ecowool does not harbor mice and insects, as it contains boric acid.
What is attractive about it is its long service life and the possibility of recycling.

When dry laying ecowool into a wall, its consumption is 45÷70 kg/m³. Before carrying out work, the material is fluffed using electric drill. It should be taken into account that over time, dry cotton wool will sag by approximately 15%, so the insulation must be compacted well. It is also important to know that when fluffing this material in the room there will be a large number of dust and debris, so it is best to carry out work on the street or in outbuildings, and Airways It is imperative to protect yourself by wearing a respirator.

Insulation of walls with dry ecowool is done in two ways - backfilling and blowing.

Backfilling is done manually, into a gradually erected formwork, and blowing is done into a space completely covered by sheathing fixed to the frame posts. In order to carry out blowing, you need special equipment into which ecowool is poured, fluffed, and then fed under pressure into the empty space of the frame sheathed on both sides through drilled holes.

The stages of work on backfilling ecowool will be discussed below.

Sawdust as backfill insulation for frame walls

Sawdust cannot be called a popular insulation material, although it has been used for this purpose for centuries. We can say that this natural material has been replaced by modern synthetic insulation. However, there are craftsmen who to this day do not refuse sawdust and shavings, successfully insulating the walls of frame houses with them.

It is believed that sawdust was first used for insulation frame buildings in Finland, where the climate is more severe than in most regions of Russia, and it should be noted that the material fully justified its purpose. But we must not forget that sawdust has not only advantages, but also its disadvantages, which you also need to know about.

To achieve the desired thermal insulation effect, it is necessary to choose hardwood sawdust - beech, maple, hornbeam, oak, alder and maybe pine, the moisture content of which should be no more than 20% of the total mass.

The disadvantages of sawdust used for insulation in its pure form, without treating it with special compounds, include the following features:

Flammability. Dry sawdust quickly ignites and burns, spreading the fire to nearby combustible materials.
Various insects and rodents feel good in the sawdust layer.
At high humidity sawdust may begin to rot, and mold may also form on it.
When moistened, sawdust can shrink significantly; in addition, its thermal conductivity increases, which reduces the thermal insulation effect.

Taking into account all the features of this natural insulating material, master builders have developed mixtures that contain additives that neutralize all the shortcomings of sawdust.

To make such an insulating mixture, in addition to sawdust, you will need the following materials:

Cement, clay, lime or cement are the binding components of the mass.
Boric acid or copper sulfate are antiseptic substances.

Clay or cement is used in the sawdust mass if it is prepared for insulating the attic floor; for floors, sawdust is mixed with lime, and for walls, a sawdust-gypsum mixture is usually used.

The process of making a mixture for insulating frame walls can be considered in the following proportions, based on mixing it in a construction wheelbarrow with a volume of 150 liters:

Sawdust is poured into the container, approximately ⅔ of the total volume, that is, about 100 liters. (0.1 m³).
Gypsum is added to the sawdust; you will need two liter jars of it. If insulated attic floor, instead of gypsum, clay is used, and lime is used for floors.
Next, dilute 100 ml in a 10 liter bucket of water boric acid or copper sulfate.
Then the prepared, well-mixed aqueous solution is poured into a wheelbarrow with sawdust and one of the selected binding additives, after which all components must be mixed well. Here you need to remember that when using gypsum as a binding additive, the mixture must be poured into the formwork immediately after mixing, since gypsum, when mixed with water, remains in working order for a matter of minutes. Therefore, large amounts of sawdust-gypsum mass cannot be mixed. The thickness of the insulating layer of this material must be at least 150÷180 mm. After filling the mixture, it needs to be compacted only lightly, since after the binder hardens, it should have an air-filled structure.

How the formwork is built will be discussed below, in the section on installation work.

This table presents a more precise composition of the sawdust-gypsum mixture laid 150 mm thick to insulate a house with a certain wall surface area.

Parameter name	Numerical indicators
Area of the walls of the house, (m²)	80	90	100	120	150
Number of sawdust, (in bags)	176	198	220	264	330
Amount of gypsum, (kg)	264	297	330	396	495
Quantity copper sulfate or boric acid, (kg)	35.2	39.6	44	52.8	66

Laying loose type insulation

The method of insulating walls with any backfill insulation material is almost identical, however, for each of them there are some nuances. It should be noted that there is nothing complicated in insulation frame structure no, and you can easily do the job yourself:

The first step is to cover the frame with plywood (OSB) or other material with external or inside. It is best to cover the structure from the street, especially in cases where it is planned to use wooden lining. Having secured the boards to the front side of the house, you can calmly, slowly, work from inside the room, without fear of rain.
The next stage of the insulation process is to secure strips of plywood or boards from the inside of the room from the floor, first to a height of 500÷800 mm. The result will be a kind of formwork into which the insulation will be poured and then compacted.

When the cavity is filled with ecowool, the lining from the inside is increased higher. The newly formed space is again filled with ecowool and this continues until the wall is completely insulated. Experts advise leaving the formwork fixed for two to three days. During this time, the cotton wool fibers will bind together well and shrink slightly, freeing up some of the space that must also be filled with cotton wool.

If sawdust is used for insulation, then the lower part of the formwork is left in place, and its next elements are fixed on top of it - plywood or boards, after which the space is also filled with insulation.
When insulating walls with ecowool, after filling all the free space with it, the plywood formwork is often removed, and from the inside of the house the frame can be sheathed with plasterboard or other facing material.
If another backfill material is used, then drywall or finishing sheathing will have to be fixed on top of the formwork material.
If necessary additional insulation walls, thermal insulation material, it is recommended to mount with outside buildings, before decorative cladding.
From the front side insulation material It is necessary to tighten it with a waterproof membrane.
When used to fill the wall frame with sawdust or ecowool, as waterproofing material It is recommended to use kraft paper. It is laid inside the formwork, spread on the bottom and walls. After filling the insulation to a height of approximately 200÷300 mm, the next sheet of waterproofing is laid on it, then the insulation - and so on.

Insulation applied by spraying

If you plan to use sprayed materials for insulation, then you need to immediately prepare for unnecessary expenses for their installation, since special equipment is used for this. Moreover, installations for spraying polyurethane foam differ from those intended for working with ecowool.

Ecowool (spraying)

Application of ecowool, in addition to backfilling in the cavity, is also carried out using the “wet” or adhesive method. The fact is that cellulose contains a natural adhesive substance - lignin, and when the raw material is moistened, ecowool fibers acquire adhesive ability.

Prices for ecowool

This quality of the material allows it to be used for insulating vertical surfaces. Wall insulation is done in two ways:

Spraying the material between the racks of the frame after covering it on the outside or inside with plywood (OSB) or boards, and then leveling the wool along the racks using a special roller;

The frame is sheathed on both sides with plywood (OSB), and then the empty space is filled with ecowool through holes drilled in the cladding, measuring 55÷60 mm.

Both spraying and blowing of ecowool into the space between the frame posts is carried out under pressure, which is created using special equipment.

In the container of the apparatus there are special mechanical “stirrers” for fluffing, whipping ecowool and moistening it throughout the entire volume

Dry ecowool is poured into the bunker, where it is moistened and mixed, and then enters a corrugated sleeve, through which it is sprayed onto the surface under pressure or blown into a sheathed frame.

If the wall will be filled through a hole, it is first drilled into the plywood sheathing. Then, a rubber seal and a pipe are installed in the resulting hole, through which fluffed and moistened ecowool is supplied.

When cotton wool is sprayed onto the surface and after leveling it, the insulation is covered with windproof material, after which you can begin outer skin frame.

Today you can find simpler sets of equipment for blowing and spraying ecowool for independent use. However, when using such a device, the ecowool will have to be fluffed manually before filling it, and this Extra time and a large amount of dust, which in a professional device is collected in a special dust bag.

It happens that a consumer buys mineral wool, insulates the walls with his own hands and hopes for long service products, but in reality everything happens the other way around. The material fails very quickly, the premises begin to freeze, and the user develops a negative attitude towards the product, which he expresses on forums on the Internet.

Unfortunately, such situations are not uncommon, however main reason It is not a violation of installation technology, operating rules or incorrect preparation of the walls, but incorrectly selected dimensions or physical characteristics. In particular, the density and thickness of the slabs. So that insulating walls outside with mineral wool does not become a waste of money, potential buyer It is worth familiarizing yourself with the recommendations regarding material parameters.

It is known that the insulation in question is perfect for internal or external surfaces of residential buildings. Since in the latter case, wall insulation mineral wool has an impact on the entire thermal insulation system and the resource of the house; its size must be selected taking into account the following factors:

climatic features of the region;
humidity;
material of the insulated surface;
maximum and minimum temperatures during a year.

Even if a consumer buys mineral wool with the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, there is no guarantee that the purchase will perform its functions.

By the way, to achieve the best effect you should not pay attention roll insulation- they are cheaper and, as a rule, made from lower quality components.

In addition, the thickness of the roll is a maximum of 50 mm, which may not be enough when insulating external walls. Having given preference to mineral wool slabs large sizes, the consumer will not go wrong.

Density indicates the weight of insulation contained in one cubic meter volume. The higher the indicator, the higher the cost of mineral wool. This fact due to the difference in the production technology of some slabs from others. To obtain greater density, you need to spend a lot of raw materials. This, in turn, affects the increase in manufacturer costs.

The density of mineral wool slabs varies from 20 to 250 kg/m3. m. Physical properties and the technical capabilities of the material will vary greatly. To accurately determine which slab would be better suited For outer wall of this or that structure, it is worth knowing that the density depends on:

the ability of the structure to withstand a certain load;
resistance to deformation;
material's resistance to compression.

However, a number of functions are not affected by density. Among them:

noise insulation properties;
vapor permeability;
slab thickness;
insulation properties.

Having full information about the operating features of an insulated building, you can select mineral wool slabs, the size of which will increase their service life and the life of the house as a whole.

Recommendations for thickness and density of mineral wool

Accounting climatic features region is decisive when choosing the size of insulation. For the external walls of houses located in areas of temperate continental climate (Moscow, Leningrad, Volgograd and other regions), it is recommended to choose slabs with a thickness of 80-100 mm. As the region moves away from a given area (continental, sharply continental, monsoon, maritime climate; subarctic, arctic zones), the thickness increases by about 10%. For example, for Murmansk region it is advisable to take mineral wool 150 mm thick for external walls, and for Tobolsk the correct range will be from 90 to 110 mm.

Insulation with a density of up to 40 kg/cu.m. m is used only in unloaded horizontal surfaces, so it is better to ignore them. This type of wool is produced in rolls, rolled onto sheathed interfloor partitions, floors, etc. For insulation of external walls of non-residential or production premises the indicator varies from 50 to 75 kg/cubic meter. m. If the user makes a ventilated facade, the slabs should be even denser - up to 110 kg/cu.m. m. Otherwise, the figure can reach 130-140 kg/cubic meter. m, but on the condition that the walls will be plastered later. The first option involves subsequent finishing with siding or a similar method finishing works in order to extend service life.

Rules for installing mineral wool slabs

The house is insulated from the outside in one of three possible ways:

"well" system;
ventilated facade;
"wet" method.

The first involves placement mineral wool slabs inside the wall, that is, between the base material (brick, foam concrete, etc.) and the outer cladding ( sand-lime brick, cellular concrete).

For wooden buildings More often, ventilated facade technology is used, in which a frame is placed around the perimeter of the house, and slabs of material are tightly placed inside it. Fastening is carried out adhesives or plastic dowels with a wide head. All work is quickly done with your own hands, and without outside help.

The good thing about this method is that there is no need for an additional layer of vapor barrier. The resulting ventilation gap between the wool and the lining allows air to circulate, preventing moisture from stagnating inside the insulation, and also shifts the dew point beyond the wool. Therefore, the purchased material will not shrink, will not get wet and will withstand specified by the manufacturer life time.

At wet method The insulation boards are mounted on the original surface, previously leveled, after which plaster or other special solution is applied on top of them in a layer of about 2-3 cm. The method includes the following steps:

cleaning the surface, filling holes, crevices, cracks;
installation of basement cornice;
gluing thermal insulation material;
additional reinforcement - fastening dowels;
application of reinforcing mesh;
surface primer;
plastering (decorative or rough);
dyeing in the desired color.

The classic method of installing insulation on wooden walls do-it-yourself type of ventilated facade consists in performing the following steps:

impregnation of the walls with an antiseptic, and the places where rot appears - with special solutions;
dismantling of platbands, slopes;
drying the walls (minimum period - 1 day);
laying a layer of vapor-permeable membrane, while smooth side the material is located towards the insulation;
if the walls are perfectly smooth, it is not necessary to use a membrane;
fastener wooden slats on top of the film with screws, nails or dowels; the distance between the slats should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slabs, so that it fits inside the sheathing, and the thickness should be equal to the thickness of the latter;
styling thermal insulation boards inside the resulting sheathing;
one more additional layer - wind protection (waterproofing) - is fastened with staples of a construction stapler;
in order to create a ventilated gap, counter battens are again packed on top of the bars (lathing) so that facing material located at a distance of 5-7 cm from the insulation;
since the thickness of the walls has increased, you will have to purchase new platbands, slopes, etc.

If the stages of fastening mineral wool to external walls with your own hands are carried out correctly, there is no doubt that the material will fulfill the service life prescribed by the manufacturer. For most fiber insulation brands such as Ursa or RockWool, it ranges from 50 to 70 years.

The consumer must remember that slabs with the highest density will significantly make the structure heavier, so one should not assume that the most massive option is the best. Even if the choice of thermal insulation is made correctly, and insulating the walls outside with mineral wool seems like a simple task, this does not free the user from additional work such as preparing the surface of the house or attaching hydro- and vapor barriers.

The haphazard, - there is no other way to describe it, "patchwork" insulation of houses, which can be seen throughout the country, the most different insulation materials, different thicknesses and according to the most incomprehensible “technologies” - they do not give practically any expected effect from the money spent on these processes.

Only specialists - designers and constructors - can correctly calculate the required diagram insulation for a specific building in each specific climatic region of Ukraine.

We repeat: in Ukraine there is DBN V.2.6-31:2006 “Thermal insulation building”, according to which the minimum permissible values of heat transfer resistance of building envelopes of residential and public buildings. That is, this DBN sets the minimum required thermophysical characteristics of the insulation layer, at which the apartments become truly warm.

In the first temperature zone of Ukraine, which Kyiv belongs to, the minimum thickness of insulation must be at least 100 millimeters. Only starting from this figure and above will you get the effect you are counting on.

However, in many cases, when a decision is made to insulate an apartment from the outside, the customer poses the following questions:

- is 50 mm insulation thickness sufficient?

- is it necessary to spend money on 100 mm insulation;

- does increasing the thickness of the insulation above 50 millimeters have any noticeable effect?

We continue to consider what happens when the thickness of the insulation increases, over 100 millimeters (for the first temperature zone of Ukraine).

Let us recall what we said in the previous material - to calculate proper insulation, you need to know the following values:

Heat transfer resistance (thermal resistance) of the enclosing structure, that is, load-bearing wall building;

Thermal conductivity coefficient of the building envelope;

The thermal conductivity coefficient of the material that is planned to be used as insulation;

The thermal conductivity coefficient of the enclosing material, that is, the supporting structure;

The thickness of the wall of the enclosing (load-bearing) structure.

In addition, the heat transfer resistance (thermal resistance) of the enclosing structure is equal to the sum of the heat transfer resistances of the materials of which it consists. This means, for example, that if a brick wall is insulated with mineral wool, then its heat transfer resistance is the sum of these values - brick and mineral wool

Today, we are considering the processes that occur as the thickness of mineral wool increases on brick and panel facades multi-storey buildings. We remind you: the calculation of the effectiveness of increasing the thickness of the insulation will be made on 1 sq.m of insulated surface.

Option three. Mineral wool on a brick facade

According to DBN V.2.6-31:2006 “Thermal insulation building”, the above-mentioned thermophysical characteristics of the carrier brick wall and mineral wool of different thicknesses can be summarized in the following table:

Moreover, the calculated annual heat costs given in the table, measured in gigacalories per year, consist of two values: standard, which must comply with DBN V.2.6-31:2006, as well as real (exceeding standard) - due to heat leaks:

The above figures, the ratio of standard and excess heat costs per 1 sq. m of brick facade, can be represented in the form of a graph

In this case, we observe a picture similar to the one we described in the previous article: with a thickness of insulation (mineral wool) of 50 mm, the standard and real heat costs for heating one square meter The walls are practically equal.

From here, a very important conclusion follows: insulating a brick wall with 50 mm thick mineral wool gives absolutely no effect.

Only when the insulation thickness increases above 50 millimeters does a noticeable effect occur. When the insulation thickness is doubled - up to 100 mm, excess heat costs are reduced by 3.42 times, and with a further increase - already at 140 mm, heat losses are reduced to zero.

Option four. Mineral wool on a panel facade

In this case, all calculations are similar, only the thermophysical characteristics, according to DBN V.2.6-31:2006 “Thermal insulation building”, bearing panel wall and mineral wool of different thicknesses have the following meanings:

Here, too, the calculated annual heat consumption, measured in gigacalories per year, consists of two values: standard, which must comply with DBN V.2.6-31:2006, as well as real (exceeding standard) - due to heat leaks:

The above figures, the ratio of standard and excess heat costs per 1 sq. m panel facade, can be represented as a graph

This also leads to a very important conclusion: when a panel façade is insulated with a 50 mm layer of mineral wool, the insulation effect is practically zero

At 100 millimeters, excess heat consumption is reduced by 3.7 times. With a further increase in the insulation layer, already at 140 mm - heat losses are so small that they can be neglected.

Below are photographs of houses insulated with mineral wool, strictly in accordance with the requirements of DBN V.2.6-31:2006 “Thermal insulation building”, taking into account all the thermophysical laws described in this material.

With. Bugaevka, Kyiv region

Multi-storey building on Olevskaya street, Kyiv

N.I. Pichugin, Chief Engineer group of companies Armabud LTD LLC