Caring for plums in autumn - useful tips. Fertilizing plums in the fall: organic and mineral fertilizers, principles of using substances
Plum is a delicate tree and sensitive to any influence. However, you cannot do without pruning it, otherwise many new branches will appear, the crown will thicken and the yield will decrease. Therefore, pruning plum trees in autumn and spring - mandatory procedure for gardeners who want to get a healthy fruit-bearing tree.
Do I need to prune a plum tree?
Plum is a tree up to 15 m high with an ovoid crown, the productive age of which is 10–15 years, but it can live up to a quarter of a century
A novice gardener may decide that there is no need to prune a plum tree - this is a compact tree that does not tend to grow in width. But at the same time, its crown grows very quickly and the branches intertwine.
In the early years, this feature may seem like a plus. The plum creates the volume necessary for fruiting faster than other fruit trees, the first fruits will appear earlier, and the yield will grow quickly.
But after 4–5 years, more and more empty space will begin to appear inside the crown, and on the periphery the branches will thicken, become too long and thin, and “settle” there. most of fruits and leaves. The harvest will be uneven, the fruits will be crushed, and their quality will seriously deteriorate. New fruitful branches will stop appearing. In addition, the plum will become unstable to cold and may wither and die.
The correct procedure for pruning a plum will help the tree to be healthy, bear fruit for a long time, improve the quality of the harvest and give it a well-groomed appearance.
When is it better to prune - in spring or autumn?
Autumn pruning of plums is more relevant for areas with warm, mild winters, in cooler regions it is better to postpone pruning to spring
Traditionally, plum trees are pruned in the fall from September to October or in the spring in March-April; sometimes pruning is also practiced in mid-summer so that the tree can withstand the harvest without broken branches. The timing of the procedure depends on:
- depending on the type of pruning;
- climate of the region;
- age of the tree.
The first plum pruning is done in the spring; it prepares the tree for the fruiting season and includes:
- removal of affected and competing branches;
- formation of the skeleton and crown.
Spring pruning will be successful if the growing season has not yet begun and frosts are no longer a threat to the tree.
Pruning a plum tree in the fall to prepare for winter is the second most important procedure after spring care. It can be started only when the tree has completely shed its leaves - this is a sign of the end of the growing season. However, you should not delay pruning; early frosts can strike unexpectedly. The branches to be deleted are:
- dry;
- broken;
- growing too actively;
- affected by disease or pests;
- annual competitors that thicken the crown.
If the top of the tree has reached 2.5 meters, it can also be removed in the fall.
In autumn, annual shoots young tree shorten by 1/3.
List of tools and materials
If the garden is young, one pruner is enough for it
To prune a plum tree, you need high-quality and well-sharpened tools:
- Secateurs for branches up to 25 mm thick. The bypass model is good for living branches, the model with an anvil is good for dried ones.
- Lopper for branches up to 50 mm thick hard to reach places. Long handles will allow you to penetrate inside the thickened crown.
- Small and large garden saw (hacksaw) for branches thicker than 50 mm (dead and dry)
- Garden knife for burrs and irregularities.
Cuts and cuts need to be treated with garden varnish - prepare it in advance.
When is autumn pruning necessary?
Plum tree pruning is carried out depending on the climatic conditions of the region.
Table: dates for autumn pruning of plums by regions of Russia
To recover, the tree needs 1-2 months before the cold weather, so carefully monitor weather forecasts and adjust the pruning schedule.
Step-by-step pruning instructions for beginners
To pruning plum trees of different ages and it seems like a special approach is needed.
Scheme of crown formation of young plums
The first time a plum tree is pruned is when a 1–2 year old seedling is transplanted into the soil. This is done so that the root system after stress is able to provide nutrients skeletal branches.
How to do the first pruning of young plums:
- Clear the trunk of side branches 50 cm from the ground and cut it 1.5 m from the ground.
- Cut the remaining branches by half.
Next year, prune the trunk above the largest bud. 2-3 times a year, remove the growth of lateral branches, as well as broken, diseased and crossing ones. From the age of 3, trim the trunk once a year so that its length does not exceed 2.5 m and its growth is straight and regular.
Form the crown in the form of a wide pyramid at the bottom
Rejuvenating for old trees
At the first signs of dampening of growth and a decrease in yield in the upper part of the crown, the plum needs to be rejuvenated. Anti-aging autumn pruning is carried out as follows:
- Trim off diseased, dead, damaged and competing branches. After a year, thin out the crown, leaving young growth.
- Cut off branches that have grown on the tree in the last 3-4 years. Repeat the procedure after 4–5 years.
- Annually trim the tops directed towards the center of the crown.
Pruning a plum tree is basically similar to pruning an apple tree, except that the plum tree's crown tends to overgrow
Do not cut off all the branches at once, this is serious stress for the tree. Divide the procedure over 2-3 years, take care of increased fertilizing and watering.
Old plums are pruned until they are 15 years old. Do not rejuvenate pruning of an old plum tree whose conductor and skeletal branches are seriously damaged.
The basic rule for fruit-bearing trees is not to weaken the growth of branches.
Columnar
The columnar plum is medium-sized, with an underdeveloped crown, resembling a narrow pyramid. It is distinguished by early fruiting, high productivity and good quality fruits
In the columnar plum, the fruits grow along the trunk, so there is no point in lateral branches
Columnar plum requires a minimum of manipulation, which is convenient for a novice gardener.
Video: correct plum pruning
How to care for a trimmed tree
Pruning is stressful for the tree; you need to help endure the consequences of the procedure with minimal losses:
- Clean the cut areas with a knife and generously lubricate with garden varnish.
- Feed the plum with fertilizer and mulch the tree trunk.
The trunk circle of a plum tree must be at least 2 meters in diameter.
The pruning process should be carried out in good weather, when frosts, storm winds, and heavy downpours are not expected.
You can feed the plum after pruning with a mineral solution:
- 35 liters of water;
- superphosphates (3 tablespoons for every 10 liters of water);
- sulphide or potassium chloride (2 tablespoons for every 10 liters of water).
Water the tree with this mixture, mulch the circle with dry soil, straw or wood shavings, loosen it by digging in the mulch.
Pruning plum trees in the fall is necessary to increase yields and allow for easy wintering. It is important to carry out the work at least a month before the onset of permanent frosts so that the tree has time to recover after the procedure. Without autumn pruning, it is impossible to get a healthy, strong plum with stable fruiting.
Among fruit crops, plum occupies one of the first places. In order to ensure a high yield of plums, it requires appropriate care. autumn period. It consists of carrying out certain procedures that even an inexperienced gardener can perform.
Features of caring for plums in the fall and in preparation for winter - general tips and recommendations
In order to ensure a good plum harvest next year, it is necessary to dig up the soil and at the same time apply appropriate fertilizers. This procedure is carried out at a distance of one meter from the tree trunk. The soil should be dug to a depth of no more than 30 centimeters.
By the way! Digging of the soil can only be done the next year after planting the crop.
There are several types of fertilizers that can be applied to plums in autumn time. In most cases it is recommended using a mixture of humus, wood ash and superphosphate. Gardeners also advise adding urea in small quantities.
Plum belongs to the category of moisture-loving plants, so it needs to be provided with abundant watering in the autumn. At this time, the application of appropriate fertilizers is required. For the procedure it is desirable use at least 35 liters of water. Watering is carried out until severe frosts. Otherwise, it may negatively affect wintering.
There can be a variety of pests under hidden scales of tree bark. To eliminate them, it is recommended to carry out cleaning a tree trunk from scales. For this purpose, it is recommended to use a special hard metal brush. During this procedure, you should have nearby insecticides whose action is aimed at eliminating pests. If they are detected, there is a need for mandatory spraying of the plant.
Preparing plums for winter involves whitewashing the trunk, which provides protection from pests and limits the possibility negative influence sun rays on a tree in winter. To carry out this procedure, it is optimal to use a solution of lime and mullein.
Video: how to prepare a plum for winter
In the autumn, it is necessary not only to remove diseased and dry branches, but also to shorten them, which guarantees the full formation of the crown.
Why prune a plum tree?
When is the best time to prune a plum tree – in spring or autumn?
Most experts advise carrying out major pruning of plum trees in the autumn. In spring, only dry branches should be removed. In the northern regions, a similar procedure should be carried out in the summer.
Timing for pruning in autumn
In autumn, it is necessary to prune the tree after harvesting and falling leaves. The timing of plum pruning directly depends on the region where the crop is grown.
How to properly prune a plum in the fall - instructions and diagram
When pruning a plum tree in autumn, dry and broken branches are removed. If there are excess branches, they must also be removed. Pruning young trees involves shortening the length of the shoots.
Features of pruning young and old plums in autumn
Methods for pruning old and young trees are characterized by the presence of certain distinctive features.
If the seedlings are young, it is necessary to shorten the length of the main shoots. For this purpose, it is recommended to leave only 2/3 of the shoot length. All other shoots should be trimmed slightly - by 1/3. Thanks to this procedure, rapid and complete development of the tree is ensured.
When caring for an adult tree, it is necessary to remove dry and broken branches. Diseased shoots should also be eliminated. It is recommended to prune plums in autumn only in warm regions. During pruning, regardless of the age of the tree, it is necessary to remove shoots that have grown excessively.
Tree care after pruning, feeding
In order to minimize injury to the tree after pruning, it is recommended to take full care of it. Therefore, they dig up the soil in the tree trunk circle and also apply fertilizer. For this purpose, organic and mineral compositions. In the autumn, the last feeding of the current year is carried out.
Plum is frost-resistant plant, but she needs proper shelter when young. IN northern regions Insulation is carried out constantly, regardless of the age of the tree.
How to cover a plum for the winter - instructions and diagram
Sheltering plum trees for the winter can be done according to a variety of schemes. The most common method used is mulching. After digging the tree trunk circle, it is necessary to mulch it with humus. After the first snow appears, a snowdrift is made from it around the tree, which contributes to insulation. It is also recommended to whitewash the trunk, which not only helps to warm the crop, but also eliminates the possibility of the development of diseases and pests.
Features of sheltering young plums for the winter
Sheltering young plums is carried out according to a different scheme. This is explained by the fact that trees that are planted this year do not need fertilizer. That is why their insulation is carried out by whitewashing the trunk. You can also wrap several layers of paper around it. The soil around the young plum is insulated using bags, which must be laid out and secured with a small amount of soil.
If severe frosts are observed, then several layers of burlap must be used to insulate the tree trunk circle. The trunk circle should be covered with plastic film, which reduces negative impact precipitation to a minimum.
Features of preparing plums for winter in different regions
It is necessary to prepare the plant for wintering as carefully as possible. In this case, the characteristics of the region in which the tree is grown are taken into account.
In the middle zone (Moscow region)
Caring for the crop consists of stimulating watering, fertilizing, digging the soil and pruning. Also during this period, the plant is fertilized.
In the Volga region
When preparing for wintering plum trees in this region, the gardener needs to perform a number of specific actions - dig up the soil, apply fertilizer, whiten and prune. It is also recommended to carry out stimulating watering.
In the Urals
The climate in this region is not harsh enough, but it is still recommended to insulate young plums here, since this ensures the highest quality survival of the plant. Stimulating watering is carried out in early autumn. In the Urals, partial pruning of the plant is recommended.
In Siberia
This region has a fairly harsh climate. That is why it is necessary to insulate crops, regardless of their age. In order to restore strength, the tree needs feeding. It is carried out immediately after dropping the leaves. Excessive watering is strictly prohibited, as this can lead to freezing of the root system and death of the plant.
Typical mistakes in caring for plums in the fall and preparing for winter
Many gardeners make serious mistakes when caring for plums in the autumn.
For example, some of them Do not remove foliage to insulate the plant. But it is strictly forbidden to do this, since fallen leaves can harbor a variety of diseases that actively develop after wintering.
Gardeners plum boles are not cleaned. However, it is extremely necessary to remove moss, dead bark, and lichens from them. If there are wounds, it is recommended to clean them. For treatment with the aim of maximizing healing, garden pitch, copper sulfate, and lime solution can be used.
Gardeners believe that in the autumn there is no need to protect plums from diseases and pests. On the contrary, plums need protection from aphids and caterpillars, which belong to the category dangerous pests. For this purpose, it is recommended to use an onion-garlic solution. Take several glasses onion peel. To these are added two large heads of garlic and laundry soap in the amount of one bar, which is pre-ground on a grater.
All components must be thoroughly mixed and poured with 5 liters of boiling water. It is recommended to infuse the product for several hours. After this time, the product is filtered using gauze. After the solution has cooled, the plum is treated by spraying.
In the autumn, it is necessary to provide appropriate care for the plum in preparation for winter. To this end, the gardener is recommended to perform certain actions. Their order is determined according to the region where the crop is grown.
In contact with
Every gardener understands that after fruiting, in late summer - early autumn, fruit trees need rest, pruning, and recuperation for the upcoming winter. Helping them gain strength for the future harvest is the task of people, but you need to know exactly what fertilizing and when is best to apply to the soil for plums in the fall, so as not to harm garden crops.
The fruiting of trees directly depends on full care and nutrition. During the spring-summer period, the tree is depleted, giving all its strength to the harvest, and therefore autumn feeding absolutely necessary and is the key to next year’s harvest. Plum is no exception to general rule, it also needs a number of essential nutrients.
Almost all fruit bushes form in the fall, after harvesting. flower buds, which will bear fruit next season.
To bush wintered well, preserved as many eyes as possible, you need to add a complex of necessary substances in the fall. If this is not done, with spring feeding you may be late - the tree will not survive the winter and may lose some of its fruit-bearing branches.
Time to fertilize in the fall
When is the best time to apply fertilizer, and what kind? First of all, it should be noted that if the plum was planted according to all the rules and the necessary substances were added during planting, first three years young seedling no need to feed.
If the tree is already bearing fruit, then it needs to be fertilized Every year. Everything that is brought under the tree is placed in the holes near the trunk, along a radius of 1.5 meters, and around the young seedlings - in a ring, retreating from the trunk 15-25 cm.
In order for the root system to have time to absorb all the beneficial substances, it is necessary to feed a month before the onset of cold weather.
How to feed a plum tree in the fall
Organic fertilizers
Fruiting plums and young seedlings that have reached three years of age must first be provided with a sufficient amount of organic fertilizers – rotted manure, compost. They have a beneficial effect on both the soil structure and the tree itself:
- well fed root system, restore it vitality;
- have a beneficial effect on growth;
- contribute to increased yield;
- prevent soil mineralization, keeping the structure “alive” and loose.
Fresh manure cannot be used in the autumn, but rotted manure (humus) is distributed around the trunk at the rate 7-8kg/1sq.m, soil loosen by 15-20 cm. It is better to postpone pig manure and bird droppings until spring, as they contain a large number of nitrogen.
Wood ash
Ordinary ash, especially from the combustion of deciduous trees and straw, is the cheapest balanced mineral fertilizer.
Wood ash contains 17 microelements that enrich the soil and nourish plants. In addition, ash normalizes the acid balance, and plums are very fond of alkaline soils.
Enough for 1 sq.m. 250g ash. Adding a mixture will help reduce acidity and significantly increase plum yield - 1 bucket of humus + 1 glass of fluff (lime), distribute evenly around the tree, loosen the soil and water.
Potassium-phosphorus
Plums need potassium just before winter, since promotes fluid removal, thereby increasing frost resistance. There is also a lot of it in manure with rotted straw bedding; it can also be applied in its pure form, diluted with water at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m.
Phosphorus in the plum must accumulate sufficiently before the next harvest, so it must be added in the fall. This trace element strengthens the root system and promotes the accumulation of sugar and protein in tree sap. To do this, use bone meal - 50g/1 sq.m.
Superphosphates
These fertilizers contain several useful elements that plums need in the fall: phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, permissible amount of nitrogen. They are also convenient because they easily dissolve in water and are applied as a liquid fertilizer: dilute 250-300g per 10 liters, apply at the rate of 60g/1 sq.m. The dose of superphosphate is halved.
Together with phosphate fertilizer, you can apply potassium magnesia– 100-120g for each tree. Potassium and magnesium contribute to the normal development of young shoots and fruits. The red-brown color of plum leaves will indicate a lack of elements.
The tree needs calcium for the development and growth of the root system. Superphosphate fertilizer contains it sufficient quantity. On acidic soils, it can be applied as an independent fertilizer, since it promotes a balanced accumulation of iron and manganese in the soil - the main sources of the oxidation process.
Calcium sulfate, nitrate or chloride diluted with water in an amount of 25g/10l. By the way, if you used lime to deoxidize the soil, then this will also be enough (after all, lime is calcium carbonate).
To protect the plum from fungal infections and other diseases, you need to nourish it iron. Foliar feeding will be most effective - you just need to spray it with a solution of iron sulfate.
Dolomite flour
Dolomite flour is added together with fluff lime or ash. She's well reduces soil acidity, supplies large amounts of calcium and magnesium.
Oversaturation with mineral fertilizers has the same negative effect on the growth, development and fruiting of trees and garden crops as their lack. Therefore it is important to make required amount only those fertilizers that are needed specifically for your garden.
The condition of the tree will tell you what it needs. Only organic matter can be added to young trees in the fall, and the rest - gradually, in the form of one-time fertilizing. For mature plums, up to three components are added along with compost or humus. The soil must be loosened well and watered abundantly. After this, the ground around the tree is mulched.
After such preparation, your trees will be protected all winter and will give wonderful harvest next year.
Achieve maximum effect You can avoid the use of toxic drugs by having at hand a clearly developed plan of protective measures for each group of fruit, berry and vegetable plants. This allows you to reduce the number of treatments to a minimum.
Treatment and spraying of apple and pear trees:
1. . Removal and burning of lacewing and hawthorn nests, dry mummified fruits. Pruning dried, damaged and diseased shoots and branches, as well as branches with egg-laying ringed silkworms.
2. At the beginning of bud break (green cone). Against scab, “blue spraying” is carried out with 3% Bordeaux mixture. At temperatures no higher than +10, weevils are shaken off the branches onto the litter and then destroyed. This operation is performed 2-3 times. Against the flower beetle, treatment is carried out with one of the insecticides permitted in the given region: fastak (1.5 ml), fufanon (10 ml), ZOV preparation (300-400 ml), calypso (2 ml), actara (1.2-1. 6 d) etc.
3. Beginning of budding(promotion of inflorescences). Treated against diseases if “blue spraying” was not carried out. Copper-containing preparations Medex (100 g), Medex-M (100 g), as well as speed, strobe, strike (1.5-2 ml), chorus (3 g), abiga-pik (40-50 g) are used. Insecticides Novaktion (13 ml), sumithion (16 ml), fastak (1.5-2 ml), fufanon (10 ml) and decoctions or infusions of plants are used to treat against aphids, suckers, and ticks.
The indicated doses of drugs are dissolved in 10 liters of water and sprayed (2-5 liters of solution per tree).
On a note
You can treat fruit-bearing trees (poma and stone fruits), as well as gooseberries and currants with chemicals before and after flowering. But no later than 20-30 days before harvesting, as well as after collecting fruits and berries. Raspberries, strawberries and strawberries - only before flowering and after harvesting. Cabbage - no later than 20 days before cutting the heads, radishes - only on shoots. Chemical treatment of green and spicy crops, whose aerial parts are eaten, is not allowed at all.
4. Immediately after flowering.
Carry out treatment against spotting, powdery mildew, scab fungicides topsin-M (10 g), flint (1.5 g), medyan extra (20 ml), strobe, strike (1.5-2 ml), chorus (3 g), abiga-pik (40- 50 g), etc. Remove nests with apple moth and ringed silkworm caterpillars, shake off fruit ovaries damaged by the apple sawfly onto the litter. If necessary, against copperheads, sawflies, aphids, mites, and codling moths, trees are treated with the insecticide Vertimek (3-5 ml per 10 liters of water) or with the preparations novaction, sumition, fastak, fufanon, actara. A pear infested with gall mites is treated with colloidal sulfur. Hunting belts are placed on the trunks and skeletal branches. In the southern regions, where the codling moth produces two generations, the hunting belts are inspected every 7-10 days, and in the northern regions - at the end of the season.
5. 10 days after flowering. Spraying the garden against scab in rainy years with phytosporin-M (20 g of powder or 15 ml of liquid preparation per 10 liters of water to treat 100 sq. m of garden area) or fungicides from step 4.
6. 2-2.5 weeks after the end of flowering on late varieties of apple and pear trees. If necessary, treat against first-generation apple and pear moth caterpillars, psyllids and against scab with the above-mentioned insecticides and fungicides
7.14-18 days after the previous treatment on late varieties. If necessary, trees are sprayed again against codling moths, leaf rollers, mites, aphids and scab.
8.Two treatments with an interval of 14-18 days after the previous spraying winter varieties against the same pests, scab and fruit rot with one of the above fungicides and insecticides. Worm carrion is collected every evening, as well as fruits affected by fruit rot. They are buried to a depth of at least 50 cm.
9. Autumn period before the onset of frost. Before leaf fall begins, trees are treated with a 5-7% urea solution. Fallen leaves are raked and removed from the garden (into compost; if they are affected by scab, it is better to burn them). They dig up tree trunk circles. Clean and destroy old dead bark from trunks and skeletal branches.
Whitewashing is carried out with special garden whitewash or paint. These activities are against moths, sunburn and rodents.
Processing and spraying plums, cherry plums
1 .Early spring period before bud break. Pruning and destruction of dried and damaged branches by pests and diseases, cleaning old, dead bark on trunks and skeletal branches of trees, removing and burning winter nests of pests and mummified fruits (if this work was not carried out in the autumn-winter period).
2. Swelling of buds before they begin to bloom at a temperature not lower than +4 "C. Treatment with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture (“blue spraying”) against diseases and insecticides (ZOV preparation (300-400 ml/10 l of water) against the wintering stages of mites, aphids and other pests.
Read also: How to prepare solutions for spraying the garden - recipes
3. Before flowering (beginning of bud protrusion). Spraying with one of the preparations - a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Pik (40-50 g), Medex, Medex-M, Azofos, Chorus, Topsin-M, Tercel - against klyasterosporiosis, moniliosis and leaf spot. Against leaf-eating caterpillars, sawflies, aphids and mites - insecticides Fufanon, Novaktion, Insegar, Actara, etc. (doses are indicated above).
4. 5-6 days after flowering. Shaking onto the litter and destroying ovaries damaged by fruit sawfly larvae. Treatment of trees with insecticides and fungicides against a complex of pests and diseases (see point 4 in protecting the apple tree).
5. At the beginning of stone formation. Spraying with insecticides against the first generation plum moth at the beginning of the hatching of caterpillars, as well as aphids, mites and other pests (insegar - 5 g, sumity-on - 10-24 ml, actara - 1.2-1.4 g, etc.).
6. Two of the same treatments with an interval of 14-18 days after the previous spraying late varieties carried out against the second generation plum moth, aphids and mites in the Central Black Earth, Volga, North Caucasus and Far Eastern zones. Collection and destruction of fallen fruits when moths are detected.
7. After harvest. Before leaf fall, spray the trees with a 5% urea solution. Digging up tree trunk circles, pruning branches, cleaning old dead bark on trunks and skeletal branches, raking and removing fallen leaves. Whitewashing of trees.
Treatment and spraying of the garden from diseases and pests - sharing our experience
Motor oil for cancer
Gardeners often complain about fruit tree cancer. I do this: I spread it under the trunk plastic film(to then collect and burn the waste). I clean the cancer wound with a sharp knife down to healthy wood and treat it with iodine, and then lubricate the affected area with used automobile oil. I have been using this method for many years, including to treat cracks, and I am very pleased with the result.
To increase the winter hardiness and resistance of trees to cancer, I apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in August and early September. In early spring When I prune, I always cover the cut areas. oil paint or garden varnish.
Vitriol will help
This is the second year that pears have been sick.
A neighbor planted Cossack juniper, and it is a carrier of fungal diseases. Therefore we have to pay Special attention fight against pear rust. I process trees in October copper sulfate(100 g per 10 liters of water) and urea (5-7%). I make sure to remove all debris and fallen leaves.
Sometimes the bark of trees is covered with moss. In this case, after the leaves fall, I first clean the trunk, and then treat the damaged area with a solution of copper sulfate.
Rust on the pear
Another important autumn procedure is whitewashing trees, with the exception of young plants. At the same time, I whiten not only the trunk, but, if possible, the branches - the higher, the better. You can prepare the mixture the old fashioned way: mix 2 kg of lime, 1 kg of clay and mullein, 250 g of copper sulfate in a bucket of water. But so that she is not “aggressive”, I insist on her for 2 weeks.
Fruit scourges - expert opinion
Unfortunately, none orchard cannot avoid acquaintance with scab, monilial burn or coccomycosis. The consequences of these invasions affect the harvest and sometimes even lead to the death of trees. To be fully prepared when trouble comes knocking on your garden, we offer you a list of the most common fruit scourges and methods to combat them.
In the last five years in Central region spread Monilial stone fruit burn. This disease is caused by a fungus from the genus Monilia.
Its first signs can be seen in the spring. Suddenly, during flowering, flowers, ovaries and leaves turn brown and dry out. The trees look scorched. The infection persists in the bark of diseased shoots and affected fruits and can cause rapid (within a year or two) death of trees.
The main measures to combat this disease are the mandatory cutting of affected branches, treating the cut areas with copper sulfate and subsequent puttingty with garden varnish, as well as early spring treatment with 1% Bordeaux mixture, repeating the treatment immediately after flowering and further treatment with Horus preparations (2 g per 10 l of water), “Topsin-M” (10 g per 10 l) and biological fungicide “Fitolavin” (20 ml per 10 l).
Pathogen Coccomycosis at stone fruits is a fungus called Coccomyces. The signs of the disease are as follows: the leaves of cherries and cherries turn yellow and fall off, and before this their upper side becomes covered with small red-brown spots. Coccomycosis often affects old varieties. To combat it, standard fruit agricultural techniques are used - early spring blue spraying with further treatment with such systemic fungicides, like "Skor", "Topsin-M" and "Topaz".
The infection persists in fallen leaves, so litter from affected plants must be removed and burned or buried to the depth of two shovels.
Clusterosporiasis, or hole spot, affects plums, cherry plums, apricots and peaches. On store shelves, many have seen fruits with red-brown dots on the skin - these are signs of being affected by this disease.
On the tree itself, it appears in the form of red-brown or purple spots on leaves up to 5 mm in diameter, after some time holes form in their place (because of this, many confuse the disease with pest damage). Cracks appear on the bark of diseased trees, from which gum leaks. When pruning such plants, you should be especially careful, since the infection is transmitted through wounds. Be sure to disinfect your work tools.
Raspberry purple spot, or didimella, is found in almost all private gardens. Signs can be seen starting in mid-June: purple spots appear on young shoots, which merge, and the entire lower part of the shoot acquires a purple-blue color; brown spots with a yellow border are visible on the leaves. If these shoots are not cut out, but saved until next year, you can see that they dry out at the beginning of the growing season and their yield is either absent or greatly reduced, and the berries are deformed and small.
The infection persists in the stems of diseased plants. Measures to combat this disease include cutting out affected shoots, early spring treatment with copper preparations and spraying during the growing season with fungicides such as Fundazol (10 g per 10 l) or Topaz (4 ml per 10 l).
And of course, we cannot fail to mention such a disease as Scab of pome crops. This is a well-known disease that affects almost all old varieties of apple trees and, to a lesser extent, pears. Currently, varieties have been developed that are immune to several races of scab. The disease is caused by the fungus Venturia and begins with the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, after which the affected leaves turn yellow and fall off. The fruits also become stained and their skin often cracks. The disease progresses in wet, cold spring and rainy summer. Preparations for fighting scab - “Horus”, “Skor”, “Raek”, “Strobi”.
Expert advice
Many gardeners carry out pruning in the fall, since at this time of year manipulations in the garden are more accessible compared to spring period, when the trees are more difficult to approach due to snow. However, in the Central region, with fairly harsh and unpredictable winters, pruning in the autumn is undesirable. It weakens the plants and reduces their chances of successfully overwintering. In addition, weakened plants are more susceptible to various diseases.
Below are other entries on the topic “Do-it-yourself cottage and garden”
Garden and cottage › Tips for summer residents › Control of pests and plant diseases › Treatment and spraying of the garden against pests and diseases
Treatment of fruit trees in autumn against pests and diseases
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- Spraying fruit trees in the fall will protect the future harvest Marina Adulyan
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How to treat plums against diseases and pests
This insect is most common in the forest-steppe zones of Russia. Mature thickipes begin their destructive activity in the spring, about a week after the plums bloom.
Females lay one egg on each fetal ovary. The larvae hatch after about 3 weeks and gnaw a tunnel right inside the still soft bone. Adult larvae grow up to 6 millimeters in length and completely incinerate the bone from the inside. Such a fetus loses its vitality and falls prematurely. It becomes impossible to eat it.
The most common and safe method control - burying affected fruits. Plums with worms are collected and buried in the ground to a depth of more than 10 centimeters. In such conditions, the larvae cannot pupate and get out. The insecticides listed above are used in cases where the damage to the tree is more than 10%.
Video “Spraying trees in spring”
What can you do to keep the trees in your garden healthy and fruitful? The following video will help protect them from pests.
How to treat plums in the spring against pests and diseases: proper treatment and spraying of plums
A drooping plum tree, gnawed young shoots, crumbling fruits and satisfied caterpillars on the remains of leaves are a familiar picture in the garden of a careless gardener. And all because of a lack of desire to pick up a sprayer and devote an hour or two to processing the garden. True, not all novice gardeners are so careless. Some would be happy to do something to save the harvest, but there is not enough experience and knowledge on how to spray plums in the spring. But what is there to know if all plum diseases and pests are known, the means of control have been tested and tested. The only thing is if this is not included general complex work, treatment against diseases and animals is best spaced over time. It does not matter in what sequence the work will be carried out, the main thing is not to mix several drugs at once in one place.
Spring treatment of plums from pests
It is recommended to spray the plum orchard immediately after the main spring procedures: cleaning the rows, pruning, fertilizing. You should not delay cultivating the garden, since harmful living creatures that have overwintered and hidden in the ground and on trees “wakes up” with the arrival of constant warmth. Time will be lost, and you can’t count on a harvest. Therefore, you need to take a sprayer and start a confrontation with plum tree fruit lovers.
Fruit mite- lives on a tree permanently, but in different manifestations. In the summer, as adults, the eggs laid by the female survive the winter. At the beginning of spring, before the buds open, before the mite appears, it is recommended to treat the tree with urea, which combines two things: on the one hand, it is a poison for harmful living creatures, on the other, it is fertilizing. More strong remedies, which can be used to treat plums in the spring - “DNOC”, karbofos, “Cidial”, “Acartan” or colloidal sulfur. For greater efficiency in killing insects, the drugs should be alternated. Use some before flowering, others after.
Aphid- there is nasty stuff about everyone fruit crops. Ants contribute to its appearance. If you start using protective solutions in a timely manner, aphids are eliminated quite easily. There are options within your means. You can use chemicals right away, but before you treat the plum tree against pests in the spring with strong solutions, it’s better to try folk recipes. For example, infusions of tobacco, onion peel, wormwood or garlic infusion with the addition of a small amount laundry soap. Then, for greater importance, add a urea solution (700 grams per bucket of water). Such remedies are quite effective, but more preventive. Guaranteed destruction of the pest is achieved by using chemicals in the form of preparations “Sherpa”, “Decis”, “Artelik” three times per season. The first time before flowering, the second after, the third after fruiting. “Nitrafen” or “Oleocuprite” work well against aphid eggs.
Plum moth- a harmful worm that chews out the pulp of the fruit. There are no particular difficulties with how to treat plums against worms, the main thing is to start the procedure for saving the harvest on time. On time - this means at the first signs of the appearance of a caterpillar on ripening fruits. Since the pest is quite serious, plum spraying is carried out in the spring chemicals"Decis", "Iskra", "Kinmiks" or "Fufanon". As an option - karbofos and chlorophos. The frequency of treatment is three times every 15 days. To avoid a new infection, spoiled fruits are torn off and destroyed.
Weevil– destroys greenery. Pest protection can vary. If without chemicals, then install fishing belts “Alt” or “ Clean house». Chemical protection this is karbofos, metafos or “Aktellik”, “Corsair”. Spray before and after flowering.
Plum sawfly– the worm mainly feeds on the ovary and fruits. You can start fighting the sawfly folk remedies. Infusions of pine concentrate or wormwood are suitable. As the pest multiplies, but before flowering begins, the plum is treated with Cyanox, Rogor, karbofos or chlorophos. If the first treatment did not give a 100% result, immediately after flowering ends, do the second one.
Moth– a rather large caterpillar, up to 6 centimeters in size, eats leaves and buds. Before deciding how to treat plums in the spring against pests such as moths, prevention should be carried out. First, the land is cultivated in the inter-row and tree-trunk circles. After this, but before flowering begins, Zolon, Nexion, phosphamide or chlorophos are sprayed onto the plum tree.
Fruit moth– if left unchecked, it can destroy all the leaves. Among the folk remedies, an infusion of hot pepper helps. For a bucket of water, take half a kilogram of dry or a kilogram of fresh. Boil for one hour, then leave for a day. Before use, add 40 grams of laundry soap to the solution. Spray twice a month. Of the chemicals that help, Antia, Nexion, Metathion or chlorophos, metaphos. Treatment with Nitrafen before flowering also helps.
Bark beetle– the name determines the essence of the pest. One of the reasons contributing to the appearance of a beetle is gardener abuse nitrogen fertilizers, as a result of which the wood becomes fattened. The primary destruction of the bark beetle is carried out before bud break with trichloro-5. As the living creatures emerge from under the bark, the plum is sprayed with metaphos or chlorophos. In this case, the entire tree should be thoroughly wet. If there are a lot of beetles, repeated treatment is possible after 15 days.
Spring treatment of plums for diseases
The next treatment of plums in the spring from pests and diseases, or rather its second half. It begins with spraying plum trees immediately after winter with a universal preparation for all types of nasty things - a urea solution (700 grams of urea dissolves in 10 liters of water). In the future, each disease is treated separately.
Spotting- a fungus that attacks leaves and causes them to fall off. Without treatment, the tree may remain “naked.” Measures to prevent spotting begin with caring for plantings, clearing them of damaged and diseased branches. At the same time, in early spring, the ground around the plum is sprayed with copper sulfate (1%) or Nitrafen. Along the green cone, the tree is treated with Bordeaux mixture (100 grams plus a bucket of water). The second similar treatment is done after flowering.
milky shine- a fungus that can destroy the entire plum tree. As a preventative measure, if you can call it that, it is recommended to choose only zoned varieties for planting. In early spring, after the branches have been pruned, fresh cuts must be covered with garden varnish or oil paint. Correct and complete fertilizing also reduces the incidence of plum disease. In autumn, whitewashing of trunks is mandatory.
Moniliosis ( gray mold)
– affects all parts of the tree. Mechanically damaged fruits are the first to get sick. Best time for the occurrence of the disease - season from high humidity and prolonged flowering. All measures to prevent and treat the disease are identical to those for plum spot diseases.
Gum treatment– thick streaks on the trunks, similar to resin, this is exactly it. Apart from following the rules of agricultural technology, there is nothing to recommend. Old and damaged branches need to be removed, and the “wounds” should be healed with garden varnish. It is recommended to disinfect newly formed “wounds” with gum discharge with 1% copper sulfate.
Plum pox (sharqa) – viral disease, which is carried by ticks and aphids. There is no treatment. Prevention of smallpox - timely destruction of designated pests. Diseased parts of the tree or the entire tree are destroyed.
Plum rust- in appearance, the leaves look like this - brown, “rusted”. The disease is fungal, so fungicides are used as an option. Bordeaux mixture. The first time the plum is treated when the disease appears, the second time after two to three weeks. All damaged and fallen leaves and branches are burned. In the fall, after harvesting, it is recommended to do another treatment with copper oxychloride (dilute 40 grams of the substance in 10 liters of water).
Coccomycosis- the appearance of red spots on the leaves. Over time, they turn yellow, then brown, and the leaves fall off. The disease can be prevented by spraying Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride on plum trees. Proportion: 100 and 40 grams per bucket of water, respectively. Three sprays are done. During the period of bud release the first, after flowering the second, after harvesting the third.
This is how to treat plums in the spring against pests and diseases using folk remedies and chemicals. That's enough about the bad, otherwise some gardeners will be afraid of so many problems. All these problems, of course, exist, but not in one place and not at the same time. There is nothing to be afraid of here, you just need to follow the rules of agricultural technology. If any of the above appear in the garden, the suggested recipes will help you quickly cope with the “misunderstanding” that has arisen.
In this article we will show you what plum care involves in the fall, how to prune a plum in the fall, and how to treat plums in the fall against pests and diseases.
Plums are very popular among summer residents, because they produce delicious fruits that can be eaten raw, made into compotes, dried for the winter, and even obtained thick and nutritious juices. But it is stable to hope for a good harvest and not have big problems control of pests and diseases is possible when all agrotechnical measures are carried out in a timely and correct manner.
We will briefly describe what plum care involves after harvesting, and all you have to do is repeat it.
Pruning plum trees in autumn
Majority fruit trees requires regular trimming. This makes it possible to remove damaged, weak, broken branches. In addition, pruning forms the correct crown, it is better illuminated by the sun, and there is no shelter for pests.
When is the best time to prune a plum? Experts advise pruning plum trees in temperate latitudes in the spring, not in the fall. You can prune plums in the fall in southern regions with mild winters.
In any case, pruning should be completed long before the onset of winter so that the cut areas have time to heal.
The pruning rules are not complicated:
- Caring for young plum trees in the fall involves pruning. After the tree, the central shoot is cut by a third. Thanks to this technique, the crown will develop correctly in the future, the branches will be parallel to the ground, and not stretch upward.
- For medium and old trees, you need to regularly trim branches that thicken the crown or intersect with other damaged branches. Try to leave branches parallel to the ground and remove young twigs that grow vertically. It has been noticed that parallel branches give greater yield and are better illuminated by the sun.
There are two types of plum crowns you can form:
- A tall central shoot from which branches grow horizontally.
- A short central shoot from which large lateral branches grow.
Weeding
Plum care in August–September also involves weeding the ground around the trees. This procedure allows you to destroy weeds, which are a haven for diseases and pests, especially in winter. In addition, weeding improves oxygen access to the roots and facilitates the application of fertilizers under the tree and watering.
Just be careful during this procedure, because the plum roots do not lie deep and can be damaged. Therefore, do not weed deep near the tree trunk.
Digging the soil
Caring for plums in the fall and preparing for winter also involves planting green manure grasses and digging them up after they reach 20-30 cm. This procedure further enriches the soil useful substances and fights weeds.
Plum fertilizer
After harvesting, the plum tree needs feeding, because after the fruiting season the tree is weakened and needs support to successfully survive the winter.
To do this, dissolve 3 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 2 tbsp. spoons of potassium sulfate (or potassium chloride) bucket of water. Three buckets of this solution per tree - optimal quantity, to feed the tree, and obtain good harvest next season.
A 1-2 year old young plum tree does not need fertilizing if organic or mineral fertilizers.
Caring for plums in September, even before harvesting, consists of feeding the trees with compost (10-15 kg per tree).
Pest and disease control
Autumn treatment of plums from pests and diseases should be regular. In particular, you can spray the branches of the tree with a urea solution.
Many pests hide under the bark from severe frosts and birds. That's why, metal brushes scrape off the old bark. You should first lay an oilcloth near the trunk to prevent pests and their larvae from getting into the soil. The stripped tree trunk must be whitened.
Caring for a plum after harvesting in the fall also consists of protecting the trunk, because in a snowy winter, hares can eat the tree bark. To protect against them, you need to wrap a net or mosquito net around the tree trunks. You need to wrap it tightly so that the rodent cannot crawl under the mesh.
Adding plums
The root system of the plum tree does not lie very deep, and during dry periods it is problematic for it to draw water from underground water streams.
Therefore, this crop requires abundant watering, including in the fall. Although you need to have moderation, since excess moisture will not benefit the tree.
To prepare the tree for winter period, after shedding its leaves, in dry weather a large amount of water is poured under it (up to 200 liters). After this, it is advisable to mulch with sawdust, straw or peat. This technique helps maintain moisture in the soil.
If significant rainfall occurs during this period, special watering should be abandoned.
Conclusion. We have described what it is autumn care for the plum, and finally serve good video from experienced gardener. You might be interested in: