Methods for insulating the attic floor in a private house. Insulation of floors of a private house

Are you insulating your house for winter and don’t know how to insulate the attic floor using wooden load-bearing beams? Having gained experience in this matter, I will accurately convey the technical aspects of thermal insulation, and also describe step by step the procedure for carrying out the work.

Why insulate an attic?

We must not forget that Substantial part heat loss occurs through the roof. Therefore, when constructing buildings with cold attics, it is very important to pay attention to proper thermal insulation of the ceiling between the heated room and the attic.

I'll try below accessible language explain how attic insulation affects the internal microclimate and overall heat loss in the house:

1. Purpose of the attic. Any unused attic under a sloping roof is, in fact, a buffer technical floor between the street and the living space. Its purpose is to smooth out significant differences air temperature inside the house and outside;
2. Temperature conditions. At any time of the year, during the day the air temperature inside the attic will be several degrees higher than outside. Thus, in winter there will almost always be negative temperatures, and on sunny summer days there will be intense heat;
3. Heat losses in winter. When the temperature of any substance increases, its density always decreases. Therefore, in heated rooms, heated air from household heating appliances always rises up to the ceiling. If the ceiling has insufficient thermal insulation, then during the cold season, all the heat from the room will go outside through the attic;

1. Excess heat in summer. On hot summer days this process will occur in reverse. The air in the attic will become very hot from the hot roof in the sun, and then transfer its heat through the uninsulated ceiling into the apartment.
2. Reverse air circulation. After touching an uninsulated ceiling, the heated air quickly cools down, and due to the increase in density, it sharply sinks down. Indoors, this leads to excessive reverse air circulation and the constant formation of drafts, which have an adverse effect on the health of residents;
3. High humidity. When heated, humid air comes into contact with a cold, uninsulated ceiling, small drops of condensation may form under the ceiling. This will lead to an increase in air humidity in the house, and will also contribute to the appearance and development of mold on the walls and ceiling;

1. Economic factor. Confirmed heat loss through an uninsulated roof is at least 20-30%. It means that proper insulation attic floors on wooden beams will save up to 30% of fuel during each heating season. Air conditioning in summer period, will also require lower costs;
2. Damage from a “warm” attic. Among other things, the penetration of warm air into an uninhabited attic, from time to time, can lead to unpleasant consequences:

• As warm and cold air mixes, condensation will begin to form in the attic. Drops of water will settle on all surfaces, which will lead to rotting and destruction of wooden load-bearing structures roofs;
• From the warmth of the attic, the snow masses on the roof slopes will gradually begin to melt. Thawed water will freeze as it flows down. This can lead to the formation of large icicles along the edges of the roof, as well as freezing of rain gutters and downspouts.

All the factors described are typical not only for residential buildings. They should be taken into account when designing and constructing any outbuildings on the site in which the heating system will be used (for example, a garage, bathhouse, barn, etc.).

Stage 1: Selecting insulation

When choosing materials for ceiling insulation, you should be guided by several criteria. In addition to low thermal conductivity, attic insulation must have the following qualities:

• Moisture resistance and mechanical strength. The material should not be deformed or destroyed under the influence of mechanical load, and should not change its properties in the event of direct contact with water;
• Heat resistance. The insulation must be absolutely non-flammable and should not be destroyed under the influence of high or low temperatures;

• Light weight. In order not to create additional load on the load-bearing structures of the building, the thermal insulation of the attic floor should be quite light, so you need to choose insulation with a low specific gravity;
• Vapor permeability. To ensure normal temperature and humidity conditions in residential premises, all finishing and building materials must freely allow air and water vapor to pass through;
• Environmental Safety. Insulation for residential buildings must be hypoallergenic and chemically neutral. It should not contain harmful volatile compounds or toxic substances;
• Lack of organic matter. I recommend using exclusively mineral or polymer based materials. They do not contain organic matter, therefore they are not susceptible to mold, and are not suitable for food for small rodents and insect pests.

Taking into account all these factors, several types of thermal insulation materials can be used to insulate attic floors:

1. Mineral wool. Produced in the form of rolls or rigid mats, from intertwined frozen fibers of molten sedimentary rocks. Mineral basalt wool is characterized by all of the above qualities, so it can be considered the most suitable material. Below I will give some recommendations for its use:

• Basalt wool itself is very soft. To prevent it from being pressed or dented while walking, plank flooring should be laid on top of it in the attic;
• When choosing insulation, I advise you to give preference to rigid slabs that are covered on one side with aluminum foil;
• They need to be mounted with aluminum foil inside the room. It simultaneously reflects heat and acts as a vapor barrier layer.

1. Glass wool. It has a similar manufacturing technology, only molten glass is used as the raw material for its production. I do not recommend using this material for insulating residential buildings for the following reasons:

• Glass fibers are more fragile, so they can break under load;
• The price of glass wool is much lower, but after creasing or getting wet, it partially loses its heat-insulating properties;
• Small particles of glass penetrate deeply into a person's skin and cause severe irritation.

1. Expanded clay. This bulk insulation It is produced in the form of small round pellets of light brown or red color. Expanded clay balls are formed as a result of sintering special varieties of red clay under high temperature conditions.

Expanded clay has the following characteristic qualities:

• The internal structure of the material has many closed pores, so it has low thermal conductivity;
• Each pellet is covered on the outside with a dense glassy layer of baked clay, so moisture practically does not penetrate inside it;
• Small crumbly expanded clay pellets freely fill the entire volume, so they are convenient to use for insulating hidden cavities and hard to reach places in building structures;
• Thanks to its mineral base, this material does not burn at all, does not emit harmful substances, is not susceptible to mold, and is not suitable for rodent food.

1. Styrofoam. This polymer thermal insulation material is made by hot molding from small round granules of polystyrene foam. It is usually produced in sheets measuring 1000x1000 mm, which can be from 10 to 150 mm thick. The following features are characteristic of polystyrene foam:

• Of all existing types of insulation, it has the lowest thermal conductivity;
• The foam contains no organic substances, so it is absolutely not afraid of water, does not rot and does not contribute to the formation of mold;
• By itself, polystyrene foam does not burn and does not support combustion, however, when exposed to high temperatures, it can emit toxic gases and acrid thick smoke;
• Due to the polymer base and closed porous structure, foam sheets do not allow air and water vapor to pass through. For this reason, it is not very good to use for insulation. living rooms and premises with high humidity air.

1. Extruded polystyrene foam Abbreviated as EPPS. It has the same composition as polystyrene foam, but is made by hot extrusion from a molten mass of polystyrene foam. The technical characteristics of these two materials are also very similar, however, EPS still has some differences:

• Expanded polystyrene has a porous, uniform structure and a higher specific density;
• Due to this, it has higher thermal conductivity, but at the same time is more durable, and therefore is able to bear higher weight loads;
• For this reason, I recommend using it for insulating unheated attics that will be used for storing seasonal items or household equipment.

1. Foil polyethylene foam. It is also called “Penofol” in another way. This roll material consists of thick polyethylene foam film, which is covered on one or both sides. thin layer aluminum foil. I recommend using it in combination with other types of insulation, because by itself it has specific properties:

• The porous structure of polyethylene foam provides a low heat transfer coefficient, so it functions as an additional insulation;
• Polyethylene film does not allow air, drops of moisture and water vapor to pass through at all, so Penofol can be used as waterproofing;
• Mirror aluminium foil Well reflects infrared waves of thermal radiation. In other words, it does not allow radiant heat to pass through itself, and returns it back to the room.

1. Wood sawdust. This cheap and accessible material is still often used to insulate ceilings in bathhouses, heated barns or small country houses. It is applied to the wooden floor from the attic side, in the form of a homogeneous thick mixture of sawdust and liquid clay mortar. Despite the seeming primitiveness of this method, it has its advantages and disadvantages:

• Sawdust or small shavings can be bought inexpensively, or even taken for free, at almost any large sawmill;
• There can be no problems with clay either, so such insulation is easy to prepare with your own hands in the required quantity at any time;
• The mixture of sawdust and clay has a low specific gravity, and after hardening it becomes quite hard. Therefore, it does not place a significant load on the load-bearing beams, and allows you to walk on it with your feet;
• Due to the mineral components, such a coating is permeable to air and steam, however, due to sawdust, mold may form on it, or mice may chew on it.

Everything is warm insulating materials mineral-based, to one degree or another, are capable of allowing water vapor and air to pass through. To protect such insulation from the formation of condensation or moisture penetration from the outside, they must be installed using a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane.

Stage 2: Preparation of materials and tools

In addition to insulation, for the work you will need lumber, waterproofing, as well as the usual set of carpentry and carpentry tools:

1. Two hammers: one medium, weighing 200-300 grams, and one heavy, weighing 800-1200 grams;
2. Longitudinal and transverse hacksaw for wood. Instead of a cross saw, it is more convenient to use an electric cutting machine;
3. A carpenter's plane, a large wooden mallet and a set of chisels;
4. From electric tools you need to have an ordinary household drill, and it is advisable to have a cordless screwdriver with a set of replaceable attachments;

1. For fastening roll materials(waterproofing, vapor barrier), I recommend using construction or furniture stapler with a set of metal brackets;
2. You will also need a straight metal ruler, a tape measure 3-5 meters long, a building level and a simple rope plumb line;
3. To work near the ceiling, it is most convenient to use a folding stepladder. If it is not there, you can adapt a high strong table or homemade goats from scraps of boards;
4. From lumber you will need wooden blocks with a cross-section of 62x62 mm, and planed edged boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm;

1. As a waterproofing layer, you can use a film of foamed polyethylene and a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane;
2. To seal the joints of the panels, you will need metallized aluminum tape, which is usually used in ventilation systems;
3. Each homeowner chooses materials for finishing the ceiling at his own discretion. This could be lining board, drywall, laminated OSB or plywood, or other finishing materials;

If you plan to use mineral or glass wool for insulation, then I recommend purchasing a special protective suit that is designed to work with these materials. Otherwise, from small fibers of glass, on open areas severe skin irritation may occur.

Stage 3: Filing the rough ceiling

During construction attic floor or construction sloping roof, you can do without expensive and heavy concrete floor slabs. Instead, the entire load from the roof is carried by wooden load-bearing beams made of logs or timber, with a cross-section of at least 120x120 mm. They are usually laid on top of two main exterior walls, perpendicular to the long side of the house.

Such beams serve as a supporting structure for the ceiling of the top floor and for the floor of the attic. The same beams will also be used for installing insulation between the residential building and the attic. This type of overlap is called hemming, because both rough and finished ceiling, hemmed from below to the load-bearing beams.

Before insulating the attic floor, you need to mount the rough ceiling:

Illustration	Description of work
	Installation of a rough ceiling. To hem the rough ceiling, you should use dry edged boards 25 mm thick, or plywood sheets 10 mm thick or more.
	Hemming boards. They must be secured to the lower plane of the supporting beams and beams around the perimeter of the room. Hemming boards must be fastened without gaps or cracks, close to each other. For fastening, use galvanized self-tapping screws 5-6 mm.
	Waterproofing. When the entire rough ceiling is hemmed to the load-bearing beams, panels of foiled polyethylene foam need to be secured to it from below. This can be done using a stapler. "Penofol" will perform the functions of heat and waterproofing. It should always be placed with a foil layer towards the warm room.
	Sealing joints. To prevent moist air from the room from entering the insulation, the ends of the polyethylene film must be wrapped on the walls by 150-200 mm. The joints between the panels must be glued with metallized tape on an aluminum base.
	Attaching the sheathing. From below, across the entire area of ​​the rough ceiling, nail a counter lath made of wooden slats 15-22 mm thick. It is needed to provide ventilation air gap between Penofol and the finished ceiling. The distance between the slats should be about 400-600 mm. In the future, a finishing ceiling covering will be attached to them from below.

Before starting work, all wooden structural elements must be treated with antiseptic and fire-retardant impregnations. Antiseptics are needed to protect wood from rotting and mold development. Fire retardants give dry wood fire retardant properties.

Stage 4: Installation of thermal insulation

After filing the rough ceiling, the transverse load-bearing beams will be on the side of the attic. Insulation will be laid in between them.

Depending on the thermal insulation materials used, further installation technology may have some differences. Therefore, below I will briefly discuss the use of the most common types of insulation.

1. Laying mineral wool. Mineral insulation materials, when wet, partially lose their properties. To prevent condensation from forming in the mineral wool, the entire thermal insulation layer of the cold attic floor must be permeable to air and water vapor:

Illustration	Description of work
	Vapor barrier. First, you need to lay a vapor-permeable waterproofing membrane on top of the rough ceiling. Its peculiarity is that it freely allows water vapor molecules to pass through, but does not allow bound liquid water molecules to pass through. The membrane panels must overlap each other by at least 150 mm;
	Installation of insulation. Place sheets or rolls of mineral wool in the spaces between the wooden beams. If it is very soft, then it does not need to be squeezed or squeezed much. Lay another layer of vapor-permeable membrane on top of the mineral wool. To prevent it from moving over time, it must be stapled to the beams and walls, throughout the entire area and along the perimeter of the attic.

1. Installation of foam plastic. Polymer-based insulation does not have breathable properties, so it does not allow air and moisture to pass through. There is no point in using a waterproof membrane in this case:

Illustration	Description of work
	Laying foam. Foam or extruded polystyrene panels can be laid between the cross beams, directly on top of the sub-ceiling boards. I advise laying them in two layers, so that the joints of the sheets are located in different places and do not intersect with each other.
	Polyurethane foam. To prevent the insulation sheets from moving to the sides, they can be glued to the sub-ceiling using a special glue for polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. Thus, it is necessary to fill the entire area of ​​the attic floor with insulation. If there are gaps and cracks between the sheets of foam plastic, then they must also be blown out from a balloon with polyurethane foam.

1. Clay with wood shavings. Insulating the attic floor with a sawdust-clay mixture does not require any additional materials, and is also quite simple:

Illustration	Description of work
	Preparation of the solution. To make the sawdust-clay solution plastic, the clay must be soaked in water 2-3 days before starting work. To prepare the solution, you need to take 3-4 volume parts of sawdust, and 1-2 parts of dry red clay without large solid particles and foreign impurities. Mix the soaked clay with water until a liquid, flowing solution is obtained; Add sawdust to the resulting mixture and mix thoroughly until smooth. To protect against mold formation, a small amount of copper sulfate can be added to the prepared solution.
	Laying sawdust-clay mixture. Lightly moisten the supporting beams and boards of the rough ceiling with liquid clay milk. After this, fill all the gaps between the beams with sawdust-clay mortar and leave for several days until completely dry.

1. Expanded clay backfill. I want to say right away that expanded clay does not have very good heat-insulating properties, so individual construction, such floor insulation is rarely used. At the same time, it is considered inexpensive, unpretentious and the easiest to install:

Illustration	Description of work
	Preparatory work. Expanded clay pellets do not absorb moisture, and therefore are not afraid of water ingress or condensation. Therefore, they can be used both with and without a waterproof membrane. To prevent condensation from seeping through the ceiling into the house, I still recommend laying a waterproofing membrane under the pellets;
	Filling of pellets. Expanded clay pellets should be poured on top of the rough ceiling boards and evenly distributed in a thick layer over the entire area of ​​the attic. No covering material is required on top of expanded clay.

To prevent expanded clay pellets from bunching up and spreading throughout the attic, a retaining plastic geogrid is used. It needs to be stretched in the spaces between the load-bearing beams, and then expanded clay should be poured into its cells.

Stage 5: Arrangement of the floor in the attic

Many residents use the cold attic in their private home as a storage room for storing long items, seasonal items and all sorts of unnecessary rubbish. In order for a person to safely walk on the insulated floor, the attic must be equipped with a durable subfloor.

The choice of material for installing the floor in the attic will depend on the type of insulation used:

Illustration	Features of application
	Mineral wool and polystyrene foam. These materials themselves are very soft. To prevent them from being destroyed or wrinkled while walking, the top floor covering must be sufficiently rigid. In such cases, OSB or plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 18 mm should be laid on the load-bearing beams. You can also use unplaned edged boards with a thickness of 25 or 30 mm.
	Extruded polystyrene. It has higher rigidity, so it can withstand significant loads. To prevent it from being pressed when walking, it is enough to put a light flooring of thin boards or plywood 5-9 mm thick on top of it.
	Under the weight of a person, they will crawl in different directions. To prevent this from happening, you need to lay 10 mm thick plywood sheets or light wooden ladders made of boards on top of the beam floor.
	Sawdust-clay insulation. After the solution hardens, it becomes hard like cement. A person can move freely on its surface, even without installing additional flooring.

When installing rough flooring in the attic, between boards or sheets of plywood, you should always leave gaps 15-20 mm wide. This is done so that moisture and condensation can freely evaporate from the insulation.

Conclusion

Using this operating algorithm, you can easily insulate the attic floor in your own home. More visual information on each method of insulation can be viewed in the attached video in this article, and I suggest leaving all your comments and questions in the comment form.

Private housing construction in our country is constantly growing and developing. These are mainly mansions with a height of two floors or more. The topmost tier forms an attic floor, which can be insulated using wooden beams with your own hands without the use of special equipment. To do this, you can get by with simple carpentry tools, making a kind of “pie” from vapor barrier and special materials.

You can insulate an attic using beams with your own hands, without special equipment

Reasons for insulation

The roof is one of the main ways of heat loss. Therefore, if the upper level of the home is supposed to be left cold, proper separation of heated rooms from unheated ones will become the main task of a caring owner. Must be submitted the most important factors that affect the microclimate in the house when insulating the wooden floor of the attic:

Selection of materials

In addition to low thermal conductivity, resources intended for installation in the attic must have certain properties. Chief among them are:

Attic insulation must be lightweight and not attract rodents

1. Resistance to mechanical stress and moisture without changing physical characteristics.
2. Completely incombustible and indestructible under the influence of elevated or low temperatures.
3. Light weight, which does not create additional load on the load-bearing parts of the structure.
4. To ensure normal moisture and temperature conditions, vapor permeability is necessary. This guarantees the free passage of air and water vapor.
5. Any insulation must be environmentally friendly, that is, it must not contain chemically active or toxic substances and not cause allergies.
6. The absence of organic compounds does not attract rodents and other animals to use the insulation as food.

Summarizing these factors, modern market you can select the appropriate product.

Mineral wool products

To install it, vapor and waterproofing is required to protect from warm air from below and from moisture penetration from above. Usually the installation is carried out on the attic floor, less often they try to insulate the ceiling in the room. Such material is sold both in the form of slabs and in rolls. This is an inexpensive, reliable component that is not afraid of compression and deformation, covering not only a flat surface, but also protrusions of beams and ceilings.

Mineral wool is a fire-resistant material that requires vapor barrier and moisture insulation

Several more advantages of cotton insulation should be noted:

• low price;
• easy installation;
• unattractive to rodents;
• fire safety.

However, working with such materials requires the use of tools personal protection: thick overalls, respirator, goggles and gloves. You can work with mineral wool in several ways:

• continuous flooring;
• laying in cells;
• location inside the grooves.

Installation of mineral wool must be done in protective clothing, glasses, gloves

The choice depends on the maximum load on the floor. The second option is preferable at maximum pressure on the supporting structure.

Installing glass wool insulation begins with laying a vapor barrier. This film allows vapors to escape from the heat into a cool room. Methods of its use are in the instructions for use and in the labeling on the package. It is recommended to overlap 10 cm between the panels. The layer must cover all bends and fit tightly to the base, otherwise the wooden beams will begin to rot due to moisture. At the joints with the walls, a bend equal to the thickness of the insulation plus 5 centimeters is required and the edges are sealed with tape.

The mineral wool must be laid tightly, without leaving gaps between the slabs

Next comes the installation of wool. It is cut with a knife and laid end-to-end without gaps or squeezing. If this rule is not followed, the tightness of the connection will be compromised. When working, you should follow several recommendations:

1. If insulation with foil is used, then this layer should be on the bottom.
2. Do not allow glass wool to escape beyond the beam. If this happens, the structure must be supplemented with a lath or beam to the required thickness.
3. Two thin layers of insulation are preferable to one thick one. In this case, overlapping staggered laying is recommended.
4. For existing protruding structures such as chimneys, the insulation is raised by 40-50 cm and then fixed.
5. At the final stage, a waterproofing film and subfloor are laid. After this, finishing work should begin.

Laying foam

Using this material, you can turn the attic into a living space suitable for staying there at any time. Due to its structure, which is foamed air granules pressed into slabs, it has low thermal conductivity. It should be laid closely, since any gap becomes a path for cold air to penetrate.

When spreading the vapor barrier film, pay attention to the markings. It should be located on the right side. The distance between the components must be maintained at least 20-30 mm, and the insulation itself must be 70 mm thick, in the northern regions - 100 mm.

Polystyrene foam is lightweight and quick to install, but be careful as this material has poor fire resistance

The negative point is the flammability of polystyrene foam. The advantages of this material include:

• budget cost;
• ease of installation;
• impermeability to moisture.

The installation technology is more than simple and can be easily done with your own hands. The work can be divided into 2 stages:

1. To provide high-quality thermal insulation, all irregularities must be eliminated. Therefore, before installation, level the surface using a cement screed.
2. Direct placement of sheets with careful sealing of cracks and joints. When avoiding obstacles, holes must be cut with maximum precision. If the layer is homogeneous, the heat will be retained better.

The gaps formed during the installation of insulation must be sealed with mortar or foam.

You need to protect the insulation from destruction using a film and a subfloor made of OSB or similar building material.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Many builders call this option the most suitable for attic insulation. It can be used under any conditions and under any beam floor. The use of such material will save space, since required thickness for effective insulation, compared to mineral wool, it is 2-3 times less.

Expanded polystyrene is a thin, dense material that saves space in the attic

Several enterprises are engaged in the production of polystyrene foam, so its appearance may vary. You should choose a product whose density is 32-34 kg/m, and thickness - from 40 to 100 mm. In the store you can pick up shaped elements that are used to lay out intricate designs. It is most convenient to carry out installation in two layers: the first is located between the floors, and the second covers the beams.

The disadvantage of such materials is flammability. To reduce the fire hazard, you can lay mineral wool or add antipyrine in between.

Application of expanded clay

This is one of the oldest ways to insulate technical and attic spaces. For effective use, the material should be poured into the spaces between the overlaps in a layer of 15 centimeters. This universal remedy thermal insulation, which can be mixed with other bulk materials, such as sand or sawdust.

It is better to fill the floors with expanded clay during the construction of the building

Despite the light weight, thick layer expanded clay exerts a large load on the supporting structure.

It is better to lay the insulator during the construction of the building. This will allow you to easily fill all the ceilings under the attic and install hoods and chimneys. To protect against getting wet, you will need a film, and expanded clay should be poured directly onto wooden structures, since a large amount of dust is generated during operation.

The main advantages of this building material, obtained by firing clay, are: relate:

• natural origin;
• low thermal conductivity;
• environmental Safety;
• insignificant mass.

Expanded clay has low thermal conductivity

Difficulties during work may arise with the delivery of expanded clay to great heights. Attic insulation measures can be divided into 3 stages:

1. Inspect the surface for cracks. If found, they must be sealed with mortar or covered with film. The presence of protruding elements is not a problem during installation.
2. Production of paving sheathing for laying the subfloor.
3. Filling with expanded clay and leveling it with a rake. It is best to use granules different sizes, which do not form voids when filling space.

Using sawdust

They are formed as a result of wood processing and are the cheapest material for insulation. You can buy them at any sawmill. Many owners of woodworking enterprises give them away for free. This insulator has the following advantages:

• low cost, almost equal to delivery costs;
• being an organic material, sawdust is harmless to humans and does not cause allergic reactions, unlike many modern artificial thermal insulations;
• the porous structure reduces thermal conductivity.

Disadvantages include fire hazard, which does not decrease even when other materials are added. Preparation for use consists of mixing sawdust, cement and water in a ratio of 10:1:1. Next, the resulting composition needs

Sawdust is a cheap environmental material, but has a high fire hazard

pour onto the floor and level.

Such material can only be used in non-residential premises, since during movement through the attic the insulating layer will be compressed and destroyed. To prevent this, you need to make a structure from timber in the form of cells and fill each nest with cement. A rough floor covering is laid on top.

Spray foam

This is one of the new ways to insulate attic spaces. There are two types of such material: blown or environmental wool. The second contains 80 percent cellulose fiber, which is made from waste paper, the rest is fire-fighting substances and antiseptics. By appearance both insulators resemble conventional polyurethane foam.

Method of application: spraying on wooden floors between beams. Ecowool also comes in granular form. In this case, it is simply poured, leveled and compacted between the structures.

Ecowool is an excellent heat insulator, but installation requires special equipment

Any work on installing insulation under the roof requires compliance with simple rules. These include the following points:

1. Inspection of beams and ceilings. All detected defects must be eliminated.
2. Antiseptic and fungicidal treatment of wooden parts.
3. Installation of vapor barrier with taping of seams.
4. Placing or pouring insulating material.
5. Sealing and insulation of joints.
6. Installation of waterproofing film. It is necessary to provide for an overlap and strengthening of the connection with tape.
7. Installation of insulation on ventilation, exhaust and chimney ducts. Using basalt wool or perlite in a corrugated pipe for this.

When choosing thermal insulation products, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of future operation. In the case of equipping an attic for living space, the best option would be mineral wool. If we talk about a set of energy saving measures, then the most effective will be the use of universal materials. But in any case, in addition to saving heat, you need to take care of protection from moisture and evaporation.

Insulating the attic floor of a house allows you to retain more heat inside the room, rather than wasting it on heating a cold attic. It’s good if it is used as a utility room (technical attic) or as an attic, but what if not? Then it makes no sense to waste resources on heating an unheated attic space.

That is why it is worth insulating the ceiling of a cold attic using thermal insulation materials. Insulation can be done from the attic side or from the room side (inside/outside). It is best to do this during the construction of the building, or immediately before finishing the room. But even during the operation of the house there is no reason not to insulate ceiling from the attic side.

The thickness of the attic floor insulation is standardized using SNiP II-3-79 “Construction Heat Engineering”. This manual contains detailed recommendations regarding the selection and formula for calculating the heat transfer resistance of various thermal insulation materials. The calculations take into account not only the type of material, but also the average annual temperature, the duration of the heating season, and the wall material of the house.

The technology for insulating the attic floor depends on the selected material.

In this article we will look at the most popular insulation materials.

Mineral wool is an insulation material whose fibers are arranged in a certain way. It is this randomness that leads to the formation of an air cushion between the fibers, which imparts its properties to the insulation. However, this same feature of cotton wool increases its ability to absorb moisture. To avoid this, you need to know how to install mineral wool correctly.

Advantages of mineral wool:

• high density;
• long service life;
• Fire safety;
• ease of installation;
• the use of mineral wool for insulation of horizontal surfaces does not lead to caking, sliding and, as a result, the formation of cold bridges.

Among the disadvantages: the ability to absorb moisture.

There are three main ways to lay cotton wool: completely, in grooves or in cells (see photo). The choice of method depends on what load will subsequently fall on the floor. The most stable frame is obtained in the latter case.

First stage

It starts with laying a vapor barrier film. The film will allow you to remove steam that rises from a warm living space into a cold attic. To lay the film correctly, you need to carefully read the markings on it. It is imperative to maintain an overlap of 100 mm.

Technology for insulating attic floors with mineral wool. If insulation is carried out along wooden beams, then the film should go around all protruding elements. Otherwise, the beams may rot.

At the junction of the film and walls or other protruding surfaces, you need to raise it to a height equal to the thickness of the insulation plus 50 mm. and glue it with tape or wrap it on an insulation board.

Second phase

The insulation (cotton wool) is being laid. It's a pretty simple process. Plates or strips are easily cut with a construction knife to the required sizes.

When laying the sheet, you need to make sure that there are no gaps or the mineral wool material is not too compressed. Both will lead to a decrease in the quality of insulation. Common mistakes on the picture.

a) insufficient thickness of thermal insulation material;

b, c, d) the thickness of the attic floor insulation is incorrectly selected.

• insulation with foil will increase the material’s resistance to heat loss. The sheet is laid with the foil side down.

• the insulation should not protrude beyond the beam. If such a situation arises, the beam must be extended with a wooden beam or additional batten to the thickness of the insulation.

• Thin insulation laid in two layers retains more heat than one thick one. In this case, the slabs must be laid in a checkerboard pattern.

• if there are protruding structural elements in the attic, for example, a chimney pipe, you need to raise the insulation to a height of 400-500 mm. and secure it.

Third stage

Waterproofing is installed if the attic is not intended to be used and the rafter system is not protected by a waterproofing film. If roofing material separated from the attic by film, then you can proceed with the final stage.

Rough floor. It is laid on top of the insulation and serves as the basis for the final finishing.

The installation technology process is similar to insulating an attic floor with polystyrene foam.

The advantages of these materials:

• low cost;
• ease of operation;
• waterproof.

Among the disadvantages: flammability.

Technology for insulating attic floors with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam

The installation process of rigid insulation based on пенопласта is more than simple and can be done with your own hands. The work can be divided into two stages:

• surface leveling. To provide high-quality insulation there should be no significant unevenness on the base floor. Such differences can be eliminated by screeding with sand-cement mortar.

• The slabs are laid end-to-end or between beams. The presence of timber increases the strength of the floor.

Insulation of the attic floor with polystyrene foam Rough coating

Polystyrene foam must be protected from destruction with film in an uninhabited attic. In a frequently used or residential attic, you need to move somehow, so it is better to install an OSB subfloor on top of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene or use a sand-cement screed.

Sawdust is finely ground wood.

Advantages:

• naturalness;
• absence of toxic impurities;
• light weight;
• availability of material.

The disadvantage is flammability.

Technology of attic insulation with sawdust

• Before you start insulating them with sawdust, you need to prepare them. Namely, mix cement and water with sawdust in a ratio of 10:1:1.

• Pour the prepared mixture onto the attic floor and level it. It is worth noting that sawdust can only be used as insulation without using a frame in a non-residential attic. Otherwise, when walking on the floor, the sawdust will be compressed, and concrete screed will collapse.

• build a cellular structure from timber. Pour a solution with sawdust inside each cell. The advantage of this method is that a subfloor can be laid over the timber. And the attic will be usable

Expanded clay is produced by firing clay.

Advantages:

• low thermal conductivity;
• naturalness;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease;
• availability.

The disadvantage is associated with the difficulty of lifting expanded clay to the height of the attic.

Expanded clay is usually used when it is necessary to insulate the attic floor using slabs.

Technology of attic insulation with expanded clay

The work is carried out in three stages:

• The slab is inspected for the presence of cracks and cracks. They are sealed with mortar or covered with thick paper. Protruding elements do not create difficulties with filling expanded clay.

• install timber sheathing. In the future, a subfloor will be laid on it.

• loose insulation is poured onto the slab and leveled using a regular rake. Layer thickness 250-300 mm. You can move on expanded clay without restrictions.

Insulating the attic floor with expanded clayTip: when filling in expanded clay, it is better to combine granules of different sizes (diameters). This way you can avoid the appearance of voids.

Finally, a subfloor is installed or filled with sand-cement screed.

Please note that insulating an attic wooden floor has some nuances:

• the tree is susceptible to rotting, which means the steam rising to the top must pass freely. Improper installation of films or the use of non-breathable materials, such as roofing felt, will lead to the destruction of wood in the future.

• When using foil insulation, you need to place it with the foil down. This way the wood will be protected from water and at the same time will not accumulate steam moisture.

• The “correct” way is to use a superdiffusion membrane or vapor barrier film

• “Wrong” is to lay a special film without taking into account the markings or even ordinary film

Attic floor insulation scheme for insulation materials various types is given below.

Attic floor insulation scheme - 1

Attic floor insulation scheme - 2

moydomik.net

A little history of roofing

Since ancient times, people have built private households with such high quality that they could stand for 100 years. At the same time, it was not cold to live in them, but the roof frame was made of natural wood was always dry. As for the shape of the roofs on such buildings, they were most often built with two slopes and had a slight slope.

This choice was explained by the fact that the snow that fell in winter had to linger on the roof and perform the function natural insulation. One, or less often two, windows were made in the attic of the building. They were closed for the winter and then the air in the under-roof space played the role of a heat insulator.

In the summer, the windows were opened slightly at night to lower the temperature in the attic. When it was hot, they were closed, and the air did not heat up. This is how the temperature in the attic was regulated.

In winter, when snow fell, it covered the roof with a continuous carpet and thereby acted as a natural roofing insulator. Even in severe frosts, the temperature in the under-roof space did not drop below zero. As a result, the house was warm in cold weather.

The roof slopes were not insulated to prevent the snow on them from melting. The rafter system was left open, thereby allowing for its inspection and ongoing repairs. Therefore, in such attics only the floors were thermally insulated.

If roofing slopes insulate, then the attic space becomes a heated attic, which has a different functional purpose.

Building materials for thermal insulation of floors - the better way to insulate

There is a large selection of building materials on the domestic market. To decide how to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic, you need to take into account the conditions in which the heat insulator will be used.

There are a number of requirements for insulation:

• maintaining its original qualities at temperatures from -30 to +30 degrees;
• in hot weather conditions, the material should not emit substances harmful to people and freeze in severe frost;
• you need to choose a fire-resistant heat insulator if you plan to install lighting in the attic;
• products must be moisture resistant so that when wet their original properties are not reduced.

Before purchasing materials for insulating the floor of an unheated attic in a private household, you need to consider what the floor is made of. If these are wooden beams, then bulk, roll or slab insulation is used. When the floor was created from concrete slabs, heavy bulk or slab insulators can be used. Often a cement screed is poured onto the floor.

They sell in the form of slabs and mats:

• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• Styrofoam;
• straw;
• seaweed.

The following are produced in roll form:

• mineral wool;
• stone and glass wool;
• algae ladders.

One of the most popular options for arranging thermal insulation is insulating the attic floor with mineral wool.

TO bulk materials relate:

• expanded clay;
• sawdust;
• straw;
• reed;
• ecowool;
• granular foam;
• slag.

When laying insulation in the attic of a wooden house, you need to use natural, environmentally friendly and breathable materials.

Insulating the attic floor with mineral wool

This modern and popular insulation is produced in rolls or mats. Mineral wool does not burn, does not rot, and is not dangerous for various microorganisms and rodents.

Insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool is carried out in stages:

1. First, lay the lining material on the floor. In the case of an economical option, inexpensive glassine is laid on the ceiling. More expensive and of higher quality will be the installation of a flooring made from a vapor barrier film, which is mounted with an overlap.
2. The joints of the segments are glued with tape or fastened wooden slats, fixing them with a stapler.
3. The width of the thermal insulation material is selected taking into account technical standards for a specific region. The mineral wool is laid tightly between the joists, leaving no gaps. Scotch tape is used to seal the joints.
4. After laying the insulation is completed, level boards are placed on the joists and thus form the floor in the attic.

The above-described solution for how to insulate the attic of a private house with mineral wool gives the material the opportunity to “breathe” and ventilate when moisture gets on it. To prevent moisture from penetrating into the insulation, waterproofing is installed under the roof.

When working with mineral wool, you need to use protective equipment, such as a respirator, goggles, gloves and overalls.

Application of extruded polystyrene foam

Polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is a loose material, so it is used when it is necessary to insulate a floor made of joists and beams. For thermal insulation of slabs, extruded polystyrene foam is used, which is denser than conventional foam.

Before laying it, the surface of the base is leveled. On the warm side of the floor, vapor barrier is not needed, since concrete slabs have virtually no vapor permeability. A vapor barrier film is laid out on the prepared base. Then slabs of extruded insulation are laid out in a checkerboard pattern. Polyurethane foam is blown into the joints.

After it dries and becomes hard, the thermal insulation slabs are poured concrete mixture about 4–6 centimeters thick. After hardening, the screed becomes suitable for use as an attic floor. If desired, you can lay the final coating on the screed.

Insulation of a cold attic with ecowool

Ecowool is a lightweight and at the same time loose heat insulator consisting of cellulose; it also contains flame retardants, for example, boric acid and borax. Before starting work, a film is laid on the floor. For laying ecowool, a special blowing installation is used.

The thermal insulation layer is applied completely, without leaving even the slightest gaps. Ecowool contains a large volume of air, so a layer of 250-300 millimeters is sufficient. When performing insulation, it should be remembered that this material shrinks over time. Therefore, a layer of ecowool is applied with a margin of 40-50 millimeters.

Then the insulation must be moistened with water or a solution. It is prepared from 200 grams of PVA glue and a bucket of water. The broom is moistened in the solution and the cotton is well moistened. After drying, lignin forms on the heat-insulating layer - a crust that prevents the insulation from moving.

Which method of attic insulation to choose from the options described above depends on the specific situation.

kryshadoma.com

And for those who like to delve into absolutely all the subtleties of construction, here is a useful video:

What insulation is suitable for the attic?

The attic floor needs to be insulated when the attic space is not planned to be used for housing. Those. we are talking about a cold attic, the roof slopes of which are not insulated at all. But not all the same materials are suitable for covering, so they are selected for slopes.

Mineral wool: no harmful dust

So, when insulating an attic floor with mineral wool, it is correct to use the so-called tension method. Its essence is that the insulating material is first laid - and so that it fits between the beams.

After this, a slab or roll insulation made of mineral wool, with a total thickness of about 150 millimeters, and is covered with a vapor barrier film on top. After this, it’s plywood, which should be no thinner than 18 millimeters.

Expanded polystyrene and polystyrene: ease of installation

The insulation of the attic floor using expanded polystyrene is also of high quality, the main advantage of which is that there is no need for vapor barrier, and all gaps are easily sealed with polyurethane foam.

Blown-in insulation: fashion and rationality

IN Lately Insulation of attic floors using the blow-in method has become especially popular.

The main advantage of blown-in insulation is that it automatically fills all the voids that exist and creates an even, continuous layer. In which there are no joints, no seams and no adjoining, and for which there is no need to cut separate small pieces of prickly insulation in order to plug something.

Today, to insulate cold attics in Russia, two types of blown-in insulation are mainly used: ecowool and blown-in wool.

Ecowool consists of up to 80% cellulose fibers, which are produced from ordinary waste paper, and 20% from additives such as Buran as a fire retardant and boric acid as an antiseptic. This insulation has high thermal conductivity.

But blown-in cotton wool is obtained by grinding ordinary mineral materials for thermal insulation, which for some reason did not pass product acceptance.

For example, they did not have sufficient density or correct fiber structure. And such material is crushed and packaged under high pressure, and therefore it is easy to transport it to the site, where everything will be loosened again upon arrival.

But still, ecowool is most often used as a material. The insulation process itself looks like this: one person must stay next to the installation and monitor it normal operation while simultaneously loading material. And the second person goes up to the attic with a hose, makes a cross-shaped cut on the vapor barrier (just between the beams), inserts the hose into this cut, and fills the cavity with material.

Plus, relatively inexpensive bulk materials are used to insulate a cold attic:

What insulation parameters should you pay attention to?

We in no way encourage you to purchase the most expensive thermal insulation materials to insulate your attic floor. But please note that the larger and longer any famous company produces materials for this purpose, the more it pays attention to quality, changing their volumetric weight, improving its products and increasing thermal insulation coefficients. And this already says something.

Otherwise, always pay attention to the parameters of insulation materials that have important for wooden floors, and have none for concrete – and vice versa.

Parameter No. 1. Biostability

The point is to ensure that such insulation, which often remains open, does not harbor bugs or other living creatures. This is especially true for mice, which love to live in a warm and dry (and, most importantly, deserted) attic.

Another important requirement for attic insulation is water resistance. Raindrops or simply moisture that accidentally fall into it should not lead to the process of rotting.

Glass wool is recognized as one of the most durable insulation materials:

Parameter No. 2. Thermal conductivity

The main requirements for attic insulation are the ability to maintain thermal insulation properties for a long time.

When purchasing insulation, also pay attention to this interesting point: modern manufacturers of thermal insulation materials always indicate technical specifications three coefficients of thermal conductivity of the material at once: in a dry state, at temperatures of 10° and 25°, and humidity categories A and B.

You need to look at the thermal conductivity coefficient in a dry state, or at a temperature of 10 degrees, because this is the normal climate in the attic. For a more accurate and detailed thermal calculation, you will need a SNiP table.

Now let's note this point. When choosing when purchasing insulation, you will probably be advised to take insulation with the lowest possible degree of thermal conductivity. But in fact, this only makes sense for residential attics, because when you have to insulate roof slopes, you cannot lay too thick materials between the rafters. Therefore, here we need materials that will conduct heat as poorly as possible, but at the same time have a small thickness.

But for the attic floor, the thickness of the insulation is not a critical factor, and you can save on this. Just take cheaper insulation, but thicker, albeit with high thermal conductivity. Everything is compensated by the height of the insulation itself.

Parameter No. 3. Weight

Depending on the chemical composition, each insulation has its own volumetric mass. Thus, materials such as basalt, glass and any other inorganic and organic compounds. Depending on their type, the heat-insulating material itself becomes either light or heavy. And the shape of all these materials is ensured precisely by the elasticity of the fibers: how they straighten between the floor beams.

Note that heavy insulation materials hold their shape better due to the rigidity of their fibers. And the best stability for insulating attic floors is provided by foam insulation, which in this parameter is equivalent to hard stone wool. But there is a point: the same mineral wool insulation that was inserted between the floor beams can easily straighten out and press tightly against the wood, but foam insulation will not do this, and voids are formed - the bridges are cold. Therefore, you will have to additionally use a can of foam to close all the cracks.

But if you insulate the attic floor on a reinforced concrete slab with foam-based materials, then there will only be advantages. Not to mention the fact that concrete floor the attic already has considerable weight and creates a serious load on the walls and foundation of the house, and using lightweight insulation for it is just a big bonus.

And unlike a concrete floor, an attic floor can withstand a fairly limited load. Therefore, the weight of the insulation in this regard is also not the last point. After all, there are already many variations here: the same cubic meter of thermal insulation can weigh either 11 kilograms or all 350 - this is the norm.

One of the heaviest insulation materials is basalt wool:

Parameter No. 4. Moisture resistance

Rain moisture that accidentally gets into the insulation or roof leaks should not start the rotting process. It’s bad if after six months or a year the new insulation begins to decompose from the inside, producing bad smell dampness.

Therefore, insulation of attic floors over wooden beams and concrete is quite often done using polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene, which are known for their almost zero hydrophobicity.

Parameter No. 5. Environmental friendliness

One more point: the attic insulation should not emit any toxic or pungent odor substances, despite the fact that, perhaps, no one will walk in such an attic.

It's all about ventilation: sooner or later, insulation molecules are picked up by the air and carried into living spaces, which can be unsafe for the residents of the house. Therefore, choose insulation that meets sanitary standards.

Parameter No. 6. Saving the form

Another important point– this is the form of stability of the selected insulation. Thus, special laboratory tests have shown that over time, heat loss through the cracks between the slabs or matte insulation can reach 40%. And this despite the fact that the material itself during the same time may not change its thermal conductivity coefficient at all, if it remains dry.

Therefore, the stability of the shape and size of the material over time is very important. For a concrete attic floor, such gaps will not be critical, because here the floor itself is quite heat-insulating, which cannot be said about the attic floor.

But the problem is that in the technical information on modern heat insulators a parameter such as shape or stability cannot be found.

Parameter No. 7. Fire safety

And the last point: the attic insulation must meet all requirements fire safety. Take the same popular ecowool, which is made not just from ordinary waste paper and pieces of newspapers. It would seem that everything is simple and ingenious, why don’t you also cut the paper smaller and just fill the attic with it? Would it be worse? After all, the principle of looseness is also involved here, like in animal fur, when air molecules get stuck between small elements.

Let's put it this way: yes, the insulating properties of this method will be no worse, but it is old dry paper and wood that most often leads to unexpected fires. That is why modern cellulose insulation is necessarily treated with special chemicals to prevent fire.

If we are talking about the flammability of materials, then it is important that the insulation not only does not burn, but also has attenuation. Just remember that at the epicenter of the fire everything burns, both iron and concrete, but if a spark falls on the attic floor, the insulation should not catch fire. That's what we're talking about.

This is what the attic insulation cake itself should look like:

Vapor barrier issues: how, on which side and is it necessary?

For insulation of wood and concrete roofing, the vapor permeability of the insulation is of great importance. Thus, all insulation materials that are manufactured today in the form of slabs and rolls can be divided into “cotton wool” and “foam,” as construction contractors like to do.

We include thermal insulation materials made of organic and mineral fibers as “cotton” materials - these are mineral wool, stone wool and glass wool insulation. All these materials are formed by the hardening of plastic masses of various chemical origins. And all these materials have approximately the same thermal conductivity coefficient: within 0.04.

All these materials consist of fibers that are intertwined. They do not form any closed pores, and water vapor easily penetrates and escapes through them. Therefore everything cotton insulation- These are vapor-permeable materials. Why, during production, their fibers are additionally coated with a special water-repellent substance, and the insulation also turns out to be hydrophobized: the water molecule from water vapor is not allowed to penetrate inside and wet the insulation. It can only cling to its surface, and when a critical mass accumulates, it transforms into drops and rolls down. It turns out that hydrophobized cotton insulation is not a wet, vapor-permeable material.

Therefore, until now, scientists from all over the world cannot come to an unambiguous conclusion: the vapor permeability of building insulation is good or bad. Let's just say that if you are installing an attic floor on wooden beams, you better lay vapor-permeable materials on it so that wooden rafters, which took on moisture from the lower living spaces (and water vapor always rises upward), could easily transfer it to the insulation. And they will easily come out of the insulation - just through ventilation is enough. But in terms of insulation of concrete floors, there is not much difference. But there is a point here: when using vapor-permeable insulation, it is important that the ventilation of such an attic is organized according to all the rules, and a separate ventilation system would not hurt.

Note that there are no fibers in foam insulation, since such material is literally produced from thin air. All foam insulation consists of a cellular structure, with closed bubbles and not closed ones, like a kitchen sponge. Therefore, such heat insulators can be either vapor-permeable or non-vapor-permeable. For example, extruded polystyrene foam, which is better known to us as polystyrene foam, allows water vapor to pass between the balls, but extruded polystyrene foam does not.

What’s interesting is that you can use not only one type of insulation, but two at once to compensate for each other’s shortcomings. But at the same time, thermal insulation material with lower vapor permeability must necessarily lie in front of insulation with high vapor permeability. That is, first polystyrene foam, then cotton wool. Otherwise, in the opposite case, a material with less vapor permeability will become a certain vapor barrier for another material, which will simply begin to rot and the moisture will have nowhere to escape.

How to insulate a concrete attic floor

If we are talking about insulating an attic floor made of concrete, then the thermal insulation must necessarily be in the form of two or three layers with overlapping joints of each lower layer. Moreover, it is very important that the entire surface is leveled so that there are no irregularities of more than 5 millimeters anywhere - this is not difficult to achieve with the help of modern leveling mixtures.

For concrete attic floors, extruded polystyrene foam slabs are ideal for thermal insulation. They don’t need a vapor barrier, but if you’re putting in polystyrene foam, it’s not extruded polystyrene foam, and then, of course, it’s needed.

Additionally, if you then need to walk on such a floor, you can make a cement-sand screed up to 4 centimeters and lay two layers of plasterboard sheets. Just be sure to make paths from masonry mesh for such a screed along which you will walk. Be sure to seal the joints between the polystyrene foam boards with tape so that cement laitance does not leak between the boards.

The attic floor itself can be insulated both at the manufacturing stage and at almost any time during the operation of the house itself. Of course, for the attic it is much more correct to insulate the ceiling before you move into your new home.

More details about the process itself:

How to insulate a wooden attic floor

So, there are two main ways to insulate an attic floor: laying a heat-insulating layer inside the attic floor structure, and laying insulation on top of it. For a cold and uninhabited attic, it is not necessary to cover the insulation with something on top and build a full floor. But then be sure to leave walking ladders– separate paths from sparse flooring throughout the entire area of ​​the attic, this is necessary for roof maintenance.

A vapor barrier must be placed under the insulation, in the form of a trough, so that it can protect the insulation from water vapor that comes from the lower living quarters. But there is an exception to this rule: if the insulation was laid with good resistance, for example, it is foam or extruded polystyrene foam, then a vapor barrier is not needed here. But if we are talking about an attic with a particularly humid regime, for example, above a kitchen or sauna, then a serious vapor barrier layer needs to be installed here.

Another method is tension, when the vapor barrier only sags slightly between the beams. The disadvantage of this method is that the insulation between the beams is not inserted tightly enough.

And if the ceiling is also made from ready-made companies, then this option is not suitable at all, because such voids quickly become so-called cold bridges. Therefore, in Russia, the more popular method is in which the insulation is first laid, then a vapor barrier is covered, and only then with the finishing flooring.

So, here's what the whole insulation process looks like:

• Step 1. A vapor barrier is secured between the beams using a construction stapler.
• Step 2. Next, mineral wool slabs are cut so that their width corresponds to the pitch of the beams.
• Step 3. These slabs are carefully inserted into the gap between the beams.
• Step 4. While the ceiling below is not yet ready, so that the insulation does not fall between the beams, it is supported by rough bars or a strong thread stretched specially for this purpose.
• Step 5. Next, a diffuse membrane is quickly installed on top of the insulation - so that steam can easily escape through it, and drops from above from the slopes do not penetrate inside.

But let us also note the following point about the last step. Many experts believe that no diffuse membranes or windproof films are needed for insulation, because in a cold attic the thermal insulation will dry due to natural ventilation convection air currents that easily penetrate through openings and dormer windows.

Heat, as we know, rises. And he safely leaves the premises through an uninsulated attic.

Losses in winter can reach up to 15%.

To eliminate these losses, regardless of the purpose of using the under-roof space, insulation of the attic floor using wooden beams is required.

Attic insulation is a whole complex of works, which, subject to technology and requirements, meets a number of criteria:

• High-quality thermal insulation of the attic prevents heat loss and the entry of cold air into the building, which significantly affects heating costs;
• In summer, insulation of attic floors prevents the building from heating up through the ceiling and allows you to maintain an optimal microclimate without resorting to additional air conditioning;
• Insulation in compliance with technological requirements is capable of allowing air to pass through and does not allow condensation to accumulate in the attic;
• The use of hydro- and vapor barriers protects wooden structures from the appearance of mold and mildew, which significantly increases their service life;
• Properly performed attic insulation work prevents the formation of ice and icicles.

Technology for insulating attic floors

After laying the wooden beams, the floor is waterproofed. It prevents moisture penetration and additionally protects the insulation.

The waterproofing material can be a multilayer reinforced material made of polyethylene or polypropylene.

The ideal option for fastening the waterproofing is considered to be fastening under the beams in a continuous layer. If this cannot be done, the installation is carried out overlapping between the beams, overlapping the wooden structures, and secured with tape on top for tightness.

Direct insulation of the attic floor over wooden beams is carried out by laying heat-insulating materials between them.

When using bulk raw materials, the filling of all voids and the evenness of the surface are controlled. If the thickness of the insulation used is greater than the width of the wooden beams, additional installation of sheathing is required, fixed across the supporting structure.

In addition, it is necessary to provide options for covering the beams themselves with heat-insulating material to eliminate “cold bridges.”

Regardless of the type of finish finishing coating, it is advisable to lay another layer of waterproofing on top of the thermal insulation.

The floor of an insulated attic is made of boards laid across beams, plywood, and chipboard.

Video tips:

Insulating the attic with mineral wool

Mineral wool is a fairly popular raw material as a thermal insulator for floors. The material is cheap, non-flammable, can withstand fairly high temperatures, retains heat well and is easy to use.

Disadvantages include susceptibility to moisture, which requires good waterproofing when using it.

Found in rolls and slabs. Both types are suitable for thermal insulation. But the use of a roll version allows you to simultaneously cover beams. Laying is carried out close to the guides, trying not to crush the mineral wool.

Mineral wool is easy to install, so it is in demand when independent work. It is mandatory to use protective equipment when working with mineral wool.

Clothing that covers all parts of the body, gloves, as well as a respirator and goggles are required.

Polyurethane foam as an attic insulator

If you choose the ideal insulation based on quality characteristics, then polyurethane foam will lead the leaders.

The raw materials retain heat excellently, are non-flammable, durable, lightweight, resistant to external influences, non-hygroscopic, uninteresting to rodents.

But all its advantages outweigh the cost of raw materials. In small towns and villages, purchasing such insulation is problematic.

If a decision is made in favor of the characteristics, it is necessary to decide on the type of polyurethane foam insulation.

Easier to install ready-made slabs from this raw material, but this method has the disadvantage of joints and uncovered beams.

Polyurethane foam in the form of foam is applied by spraying and penetrates into all possible places. A thin layer is enough to obtain a protective effect.

Spraying polyurethane foam requires special devices and certain skills.

So is polystyrene foam good?

Laying foam boards To insulate the attic floor between wooden beams, even a novice, inexperienced, self-taught builder can do it.

Installation is carried out on top of the film, tightly adjoining the slabs to each other and to the floors. The gaps are sealed with polyurethane foam.

A waterproofing material is laid on top and finishing is done.

The popularity of this insulation is dictated by its low cost, thermal insulation qualities and ease of installation.

All advantages are crossed out by the fire hazard of the raw materials. In addition to the low melting and ignition temperature, foam releases gases that are hazardous to health when heated.

Therefore, insulating wooden floors with foam plastic is not the best option. This heat insulator is more suitable for concrete slabs and exterior finishes.

Insulation with bulk materials

For bulk insulation, expanded clay or sawdust is used. Both heat insulators are environmentally friendly natural raw materials that retain heat well.

For backfilling, sheathing is installed in the attic. The bulk layer reaches 250–300 mm. A finishing board or plywood is laid on top.

Video on the topic:

When using expanded clay, it is necessary to carry out additional calculations on the load-bearing capacity of the floors. Expanded clay is not a lightweight insulation material and the ceiling may not withstand the load.

Sawdust, despite its apparent ease of use, requires additional processing and is not poured in its pure form, but a special composition is prepared, in which sawdust is only one of the components.

To prepare the solution, the following materials are required:

• 10 parts sawdust;
• 1 part lime;
• 1 part cement;
• 5–10 parts of liquid with an antiseptic.

The choice of heat insulator for the attic and the technology for its installation depends on the required insulation characteristics and financial capabilities.

In any case, even minimal insulation will protect the structure and save on heating costs.

Heating the ceiling of a cool attic

Since the roof of a cool attic serves only the function of protecting against rain, snow and partial wind, special attention should be paid to insulating the soil. Thermal insulating heating is carried out using various thermal insulation materials with mandatory organization of wind protection, especially from the roof.

Thermal coating in two layers with mineral wool cylinders

Installing insulation is usually done directly on the floor of a cool attic.

Of course, if the attic doesn't work. This will save on a layer of waterproofing film, as well as on organizing a complete floor covering.

Read below to learn how to insulate an attic ceiling and what materials can be used for this.

How thick is attic insulation?

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer does not depend on the construction of the attic ceiling on wooden beams or reinforced concrete.

Is there a thermal conductivity coefficient on the packaging of any insulation? And it has two meanings: A - for a dry environment and? B is for wet. The lower this coefficient, the better the insulating properties of the material.

Based on this value, the insulation of the lower part of the attic is calculated.

Attic insulation thickness:

where R0 is the heat transfer resistance coefficient, which is 4.15 m in the standard? °C/W.

Floor heating over wooden beams

Most small houses and villas with cold roofs use wooden ceilings, so their thermal insulation, which we will look at first.

Installation of a ceiling on wooden beams is usually carried out as follows:

1. Ground floor;
2. Vapor barrier;
3. The beams overlap;
4. insulation;
5. Waterproofing;
6. Completion.

The ceiling installation in a private house with a cold attic begins with the installation of load-bearing beams.

Since they usually have a maximum length of 4 meters, it is necessary to build supports or use metal programs for larger areas.

Diagram of a wooden attic device by laying the heater in two layers

Once the beams are laid, a vapor barrier is created that blocks the cold attic. To do this, a vapor barrier film is attached to the bottom, which protects the insulation from moisture penetration from the lower room.

When you are performing rigid insulation on a floor, as with film, it is advisable to use special reinforced laminates made of polyethylene or polypropylene, as they are stronger and more firmly attached.

It's best to protective layer was hard.

However, building a wooden attic does not always allow this. If for some reason you are unable to place a vapor barrier under the beams, the film is placed between the two overlapping c's and secured with special adhesive tape to ensure a seal.

A wooden attic structure poses a risk of damage to supporting structures due to rotting.

Therefore, before the furnace is placed in a cold attic, wooden beams and strips are impregnated with special solutions that prevent the formation of rot and mold.

The attic roof is then insulated on beams, for which thermal insulation material is placed between them.

If you use loose insulation, it should be carefully aligned and tracked to fill any gaps.

The minimum thickness of insulation for attic insulation on a wooden floor, calculated using the above formula, may be greater than the width of the supporting supports. In this case, the correct size is attached to you.

Then another layer of insulation is laid between them, with the obligatory covering of the joints of the previous layer.

The fact is that they are formed by so-called cold bridges, due to which it loses heat in the house.

Mansardi wood beams typically work with floor decks of regular treated stacked box panels or cross beams.

However, thick plywood can also be used as the final covering, particle board, MDF and other similar materials.

If you want to use a leveling screed as a finishing layer, the cold attic above the insulating layer must be watertight.

Heating the attic over a reinforced concrete slab

If you need to insulate your attic over reinforced concrete slabs, you can do it in two ways: with or without a box.

The first method is universal, but is most often used for light types of insulation.

In the attic in this case you will see:

1. The vapor barrier is carried out in a cool attic, which should cover the entire layer of insulation, even on the sides.

   Since the vapor barrier must be easily installed on the floor, there is no need to use special materials for this purpose - inexpensive polyethylene film will usually be made.

2. At the top of the film is a wooden stick with a width equal to half the required thickness, is placed on the narrow side, which should have a heater for a cold attic.

   The distance between the rods is usually equal to the width of the cylinder or panel of the selected brand of insulation.

3. Among the boards is an attic heater. If the thickness requires more layers of thermal insulation material, it is laid by overlapping the joints of the previous layer.
4. They are completely identical to the already installed sticks. at the same distance from each other. Between them is a second layer of insulation in the attic.
5. Waterproof cool attic waterproofing installed on top.

   which is secured either with a special adhesive tape or with a thin stick adapted along the box. This level can be lowered if high-quality waterproofing of a cold corrugated roof has already been completed.

6. Sex lanes or traffic bridges are connected through sticks.

Since it is very important that the ceiling under a cold roof is sufficiently insulated to save on heating the house, I recommend using upper system thermal insulation.

This decking will minimize the possibility of cold bridging across the wood studs since most of them will be insulated by the heater.

Another method of heating a cold attic of reinforced concrete slabs without using boxes is suitable where they are used to insulate solid, wet insulation that can withstand heavy loads without loss of property.

Scheme of a pressure block on a reinforced concrete block

In this case, the first section is in the attic.

The insulation of the attic plates is then completed with a layer of thermal insulation of the designed thickness.

A leveling screed is poured onto it. Estrich is already covering the first floor.

If the insulation of a concrete attic is made of aerated concrete and similar density and properties of materials, you can dispense with hydro- and vapor barrier and screed.

Attic Heater: Which Choice?

Before you insulate your attic roof, you must remove the insulation material that matches your enclosure.

Unfortunately, universal option No, it's better to insulate the attic. This choice depends on a number of factors, the most important of which are:

• Thermal insulation properties of the material;
• Fire safety;
• Expenses;
• Easy to install;
• Environmental compatibility;
• hygroscopicity;
• Power;
• Resistant to fire, temperature, acid and alkali.

You need to decide which of these factors is most important to you and which you can ignore.

Heating the first floor of a cool attic with mineral wool

Mineral wool is one of the most popular materials for floor insulation.

The best features of home attic insulation are the varieties based on basalt fibers called stone (basalt) cotton.

Insulation based on basalt fibers belongs to the class of non-combustible materials with a melting point above 1000 ° C; and has excellent thermal insulation properties.

Heating the attic on wooden beams - 5 levels of ceiling insulation work

However, it easily absorbs moisture, so the requirements for hydro- and vapor barrier are particularly high in use.

Drain in two layers of mineral wool between the warmth of the attic

Heating the mineral wool overlay is best done using rollers, since the joints between the plates are not strong, but they reduce the effectiveness of the thermal insulation. If you want to fold it, you need to close the beams close or direct it without disturbing the interference.

Installation of mineral wool is very simple, which is why this insulation material is most often chosen when people want to insulate their attic themselves without the help of experts.

While working, do not forget to use personal protective equipment: thick rubber gloves, goggles and clothing that cover the entire body. For people who are prone to allergies, this kit should be supplemented with a respirator.

• Fire safety;
• Environmental compatibility;
• Ease of use;
• Relatively low price.

flaws:

• Possibility of forming fillings, good wrinkles;
• Hygroscopicity.

Insulating the bottom of the attic with foam.

However, all its advantages are offset by one drawback - this material is a fire hazard.

Already at a temperature of 80 ° C; polystyrene melts, releasing a huge amount of harmful substances at a temperature of 210 ° C; there is fire. Therefore, insulating the attic over polystyrene foam carriers is not a good idea. However, it can be used in non-combustible materials, such as when they are laid on a concrete block by casting as concrete.

flaws:

• nausea;
• Highly flammable;
• It is already deformed at 60°C;
• This is an excellent mosquito refuge.

Heated attic with expanded polystyrene foam

However, insulating wood floor slabs is not recommended.

Despite the fact that open ignition of this heat-insulating material occurs at sufficiently high temperature, fire is still dangerous. Firstly, extruded polystyrene supports combustion, and secondly, it releases very corrosive and toxic substances by heating at very high temperatures. low temperatures, in most cases the cause of death is fire. Therefore, penoplex is far from a better option than insulating the attic of a house, although it is reinforced.

• High thermal insulation properties;
• Resistance to humidity;
• Resistant to decay;
• High density;
• A light weight.

flaws:

• When heated above 80°C; it begins to release toxic substances;
• Fire;
• Deforms when heated.

Heating the attic of a house using polyurethane foam

flaws:

Heated ceiling of a cool attic with sawdust

Previously, due to the lack of other materials, cold roof insulation with sawdust was widespread.

Now this method of thermal insulation is used by those who love environmental compatibility. In this case, despite popular belief, designing an attic using such a heater is not cheap at all. Sawdust is not placed “dry”, but in a special solution, the production of which requires money and a lot of time.

The structure of a sawdust solution for insulating a cold attic is as follows:

• 10 tablespoons (wood is necessary, which is formed when cutting and processing wood, furniture dust is too small for this purpose);
• 1 bucket of hydrated lime (thrusters);
• 1 bucket of cement;
• 5-10 pieces of water with antiseptic.

  for example, with boric acid, soap or copper dome (gradually poured into the feeding vessel, the final amount depends on the size of the sawdust).

The resulting mixture is placed on a substrate between the beams and wrapped. The thickness of the layer of such insulation for the attic ceiling should be at least 300 mm, but it is better to do more, because the thermal insulation properties of sawdust can vary greatly. Moving bridges are installed on top of this attic-covering heater, which can be used as particle board leaves or thick plywood.

• Comparatively cheap;
• Environmental compatibility;
• Good thermal insulation properties.

flaws:

• Intensive independent production;
• The thickness of the attic is large;
• Complex installation;
• Differences in thermal insulation properties depending on the composition.

Thermal insulation of the lower part of the attic with expanded clay

Another relatively cheap material that can be used to insulate an attic in a private home is expanded clay.

It is made of baked clay and is one of the most environmentally friendly building materials. In addition, expanded clay has good thermal insulation properties, is stable, durable and inert to acids and alkalis.

With expanded clay it is possible to insulate reinforced concrete and wooden floor attic. But in the latter case, the calculation of the load-carrying capacity of the carriers must be carefully weighed, since expanded clay insulation weighs much more than modern insulations.

Concrete floor slabs simply carry very high loads, so they can be used without additional calculations.

A layer of expanded clay insulation covered between attic roof beams

If the wooden attic of the house is insulated, the bar is first made at the top of the beams, and only then the insulation is poured out.

Spread the clay in a layer of 250-300 mm and level it thoroughly. It is then covered with floor boards.

If you are insulating concrete attic floors, waterproofing the coating with filler or coating materials, then the expanded clay is mixed with cement and filled with a layer of 350-400 mm.

• Environmentally friendly material;
• Good thermal insulation properties;
• Fire;
• Resistant to acids and alkalis;
• Not subject to rotting;
• constant;
• Low cost.

On the materials pages: http://oprofnastile.ru

During the cold season, 25 to 40% of the heat is lost in a heated room. To avoid heating up the streets in the future, initial stage construction, it is necessary to decide how to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof.

An insulated ceiling performs three important functions:

1. By its composition, the insulating material is a sound insulator.

   He's a good supporter.

2. During the cold season, insulating material keeps the room warm.
3. In summer, the heater creates a thermal insulating effect without entering hot air.

With development construction technologies, new materials, tips and methods for making ceiling insulation in the house. To choose the right material Based on your budget and stacking complexity, consider several options.

If you choose an insulating material, you should consider some properties:

1. Thermal conductivity.
2. Water resistance.
3. Material security.
4. Durability of operations.

The following materials are widely used for ceiling and attic insulation:

• mineral wool;
• sawdust;
• expanded polystyrene;
• polyurethane foam.

Previously, straw or hay were used instead of these heaters.

Some craftsmen still use them, but insulation requires compliance with installation technology.

Ceiling insulation is lightweight and does not overload the roof structure.

Mineral wool insulation material

Mineral wool is the leader among all materials that insulate the ceiling.

It is used for heating inside the house and attic, according to the data, which is excellent for this.

Glass wool

This insulation is made from molten high temperature glass with fine fiber extraction.

In addition, continuous foil and roll-to-roll are formed. Glass wool has weak thermal conductivity properties, such as basalt insulation, but there is much more to casting. It is commonly used for attic insulation.

To install glass wool we only need the interior of the attic, so it is not advisable in rooms.

Polyurethane foam

This material is used by spraying, special equipment is needed for polyurethane foam insulation.

If necessary, it can be dispersed in several layers, which is why it is often used in northern regions. When sprayed, polyurethane foam fills the entire space and forms a tight, sealed lid without stitches.

After choosing the insulation material, you can continue with the main task - how to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof.

Also read: How to insulate an attic floor

Ceiling insulation from the inside

You can do this in two ways:

1. Bonding to ceiling slabs for thermal insulation and fixation with special clamps.
2. Making a special container made of wood or metal on the ceiling and laying insulating material between the guides.

If you want to warm up either option, you need to do some preparatory work, otherwise the insulation will not give the desired effect.

Ceiling preparation

The installation of the ceiling depends on the material from which it is made.

A wooden ceiling requires the following parts:

1. The entire surface of the ceiling must be cleaned with an antiseptic and fire-resistant material.

   Coat the wood surface with antiseptic to slowly treat each slot.

2. Then you need to fix any cracks. If there are large cracks between the plates, they can be sealed with whales, but it is better to use foam, and when the foam has hardened, the excess part is cut with a knife.

Concrete ceiling

The concrete ceiling is prepared in different ways:

1. If the ceiling has decorative elements, they should be removed and any plaster that can be cleaned should be cleaned.
2. Cracks on the surface must be widened, thoroughly cleaned of dust and prepared.
3. Small gaps can be closed with liquid cement mortar or sealant.

   We heat the attic above the wooden beams

   Large cracks should be sealed with foam. After hardening, the foam is leveled according to the level of the entire surface.

4. The ceiling is covered with an interior base designed for use on concrete surfaces.

   After complete drying, you should start installation work on isolation.

Installation with glue

To heat using this method, all materials will be made in the form of plates of different sizes. This can be basalt wool, expanded polystyrene, expanded polystyrene.

Cement-based mortar and prefabricated foam should be used as glue.

The glue on which the cement is based is prepared according to the recipe on the package.

Pay attention to the specific drying time as it affects the amount of solution required for mixing.

If you choose precast foam, apply it to the heater with a special gun.
The panel with the adhesive attached should be pressed against the ceiling and held for about a minute.

After installing several heater squares, there are holes in the ceiling designed to attach a mushroom to which a spacer nail is later launched. If there are gaps between the plates, they must be carefully filled with foam. The basalt wool heater is installed in a similar way.

This method is carried out under suspended ceilings.

Installation between rails

Thermal insulation with a container is used if plasterboard or lining will be covered by the ceiling.

First you should place marks on the ceiling to give up the lines where the container pieces will be attached.

They should be located at a distance corresponding to the width of the insulation.
The wooden frame is attached to the ceiling with screws. The metal profile is fixed with special springs, which allow the hopper to lower to the required distance from the ceiling.

Next you need to install the insulation. The wooden rods are built by the enemy.

The mineral wool itself is well distributed and has, and it can also be grabbed by shelves with pendants.

The foam is installed very carefully as it can interrupt the panel with a good load.

If after installing the heater there are gaps between the box and the foam, they should be filled with pre-assembled foam.

After installing the insulation, the ceiling should be covered with vapor barrier film. It is attached to a wooden frame with staples or staplers and to a metal profile using double-sided construction tape.

The stretched vapor barrier film is finally covered with sheets of drywall or backing.

The hybrid plates are attached to guide screws with an inclination of 150 mm. The seams between them are reinforced with mesh and applied to the coating layer. After drying the joints, you can fill the entire surface of the ceiling and then finish the finishing work.

The attic floor separates the heated part of the building from the cold part. Choosing the right material and thickness of the insulator means reducing heat loss and saving material costs in heating season. Let's talk about insulating the attic floor using wooden beams with your own hands.

Construction of a wooden attic floor

Load-bearing elements in the attic wooden floor are beams. They are made from coniferous species tree. The cross-sectional size of the beams is taken based on the load that the element absorbs. We told you about the correct calculation of wooden floor beams in the article “How to calculate wooden floor beams”.

For each specific climatic conditions and depending on the ability of the material to resist heat transfer, according to the thermal engineering calculation, its own value for the thickness of the heat insulator is obtained.

Scheme of attic floor insulation: 1 - joists; 2 — cranial bars; 3 - plank board or boards; 4 - vapor barrier; 5 - counter-lattice for ventilation gap; 6 - insulation; 7 - clean floor; 8 - ventilation gap

Black floor wooden shields or boards are mounted on cranial bars. Next, a membrane-type vapor barrier is laid, insulation is laid on it, which is covered with another layer of membrane.

If the attic is in use, a clean floor is laid on top. If not, then running boards (min. 40 mm thick) are laid along the beams. All wooden elements are antiseptic. To ventilate wooden structures, when laying a clean floor, a gap is left between it and the insulation.

Selection of material for insulation

Bulk materials

Expanded clay

You can insulate attic floors using bulk materials, which include expanded clay. It has a relatively low weight (250-600 kg/m3) and high resistance to heat transfer. Ease of installation and relative low cost determine the choice of this material.

Vermiculite

Expanded vermiculite is obtained by heating vermiculite rock to a temperature of 700 ° C, which at the same time increases in volume by 25 times. Its thermal conductivity is from 0.13 W/m K, and its volumetric weight is up to 200 kg/m 3.

Perlite

Expanded perlite also belongs to bulk thermal insulation materials. rock perlite is crushed and fired to obtain a porous structure. Expanded perlite is environmentally friendly, does not burn and is bioresistant, and has high thermal insulation properties (0.052 W/m K). Its volumetric weight is 160-250 kg/m3.

Piece materials

Piece insulating materials are manufactured in the form of: sheets, rolls, plates, mounting shells and segments. To insulate attic floors, slabs and rolls are most often used. In this case, roll-type insulation is preferable, since it does not leave joining seams, which slightly worsen the resistance to heat transfer.

Basalt wool

Mineral wool slabs and rolls of basalt fibers are the most popular thermal insulation material in house construction. It is made from crushed and molten basalt by blowing. Basalt wool has low thermal conductivity (0.32-0.048 W/m K) and low volumetric weight. This material is biostable, environmentally friendly and relatively inexpensive.

Glass wool

Glass wool in its characteristics is very close to mineral wool. It is also obtained by melting the starting material, which in this case is broken glass. Glass wool has longer threads, greater chemical resistance and strength, and is less expensive than mineral wool.

It is produced in the form of slabs, mats, rolls, reinforced and with a reflective layer. The volumetric weight of glass wool ranges from 25 to 200 kg/m3, heat absorption is 0.035-0.045 W/m K. The disadvantage of fiberglass is the need for personal protection during installation.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene (foam plastic) also belongs to slab insulation materials. This is a cheap, lightweight, moisture-resistant material with good thermal insulation properties. In private housing construction, it is often abandoned due to rodent damage and low resistance to high temperatures.

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) has good insulation properties, is less fire hazardous than simple polystyrene foam, but releases toxic substances when burned.

Polyurethane foam

Slab polyurethane foam (foam rubber) has a high resistance to heat transfer (0.029-0.041 W/m K) and low volumetric weight (30-80 kg/m 3). Rigid types of this material are used in construction. Sprayed polyurethane foam creates continuous surface insulation, both thermally and hydrologically. It is also resistant to temperature changes and is durable in use (up to 20 years).

Foam glass

Foam glass is a type of glass that has a cellular structure. It has low thermal conductivity (0.04-0.08 W/m K), water resistance, high strength and fire safety. The percentage of porosity of foam glass reaches 80-95%. Volumetric weight varies from 100-200 kg/m 3.

Peat slabs

Organic thermal insulation materials include peat slabs. They are made from young sphagnum moss using a wet and dry method. Under the influence of temperature, peat fibers stick together. Peat slabs are divided into ordinary and moisture-resistant. Their volumetric weight is 170-300 kg/m3, the coefficient of thermal conductivity is 0.05-0.07 W/m·K.

Fiberboard boards

Fiberboards are made from wood fiber, which is first mineralized and then mixed in the required proportion (cement - water). Thermal insulation boards have lower volumetric weight (300-350 kg/m 3) and thermal conductivity (0.085-0.95 W/m·K) than structural fiberboard.

It is quite easy to make a fiberboard mixture yourself and lay it directly in place. You can first make slabs of the required size from the formwork using a special technology, and then mount them on the ceiling.

Reeds

Reed, which is practically the cheapest, is also used as a thermal insulation material. It is made from compressed reed stems sewn together with steel wire.

The volumetric weight of reed is 175-250 kg/m3, the coefficient of thermal digestibility is 0.05-0.08 W/m·K. Its disadvantages are low fire resistance and biostability, high water absorption and damage by rodents.

Ecowool

Ecowool (cellulose wool) is an environmentally friendly thermal insulation material. It is made from recycled cellulose raw materials with the addition of antiseptics and fire retardants. Most often they are boric acid and borax.

In stores you can find it packaged in plastic bags. When laying, the ecowool is loosened and then laid out at the insulation site. In fact, the density of the insulation should be at least 35 kg/m 3 for the ceiling, which is quite difficult to determine by eye.

This thermal insulation material has good thermal conductivity - 0.037-0.042 W/m K, low volumetric weight (28-63 kg/m 3), moderately flammable and bio-resistant. Ecowool can prevent about 20% moisture from entering the inner layers, while maintaining its thermal insulation properties.

Cork boards have been used for thermal insulation for a long time. They are made from crushed waste from cork production by mixing with glue or heat treatment. Pressed slabs in special molds are dried at a temperature of 80 °C.

Volume weight cork insulation small and amounts to 150-250 kg/m 3, the thermal insulation indicator is high (0.04-0.08 W/m K). The advantages of this insulator include:

• biostability;
• low water absorption;
• low volumetric weight;
• relatively high strength as a heat-insulating material;
• fire resistance (slowly smolders);
• not affected by rodents.

Features of laying thermal insulation on a wooden floor

Insulation made of mineral and glass wool is installed with mandatory vapor barrier. By absorbing water, the insulation loses its thermal properties, so careful protection from moisture is needed. Vapor barrier films laid with an overlap of 100 mm.

Thermal insulation with a reflective coating reduces heat loss from the floor. It is placed with the foil down. The use of penofol is justified only in baths and saunas.

If the thickness of the thermal insulation material is greater than the height of the floor beams, it is necessary to lay additional slats to create air gap. Multilayer thermal insulation is installed with overlapping joints.

Dimensions of rigid thermal insulation boards adjusted with special care so that the gaps do not increase the thermal conductivity of the ceiling. Otherwise, the installation of this type of insulation does not differ from the installation of thermal insulation from mineral wool slabs.

Bulk heat insulators are evenly distributed throughout the entire space between the beams, observing the required (calculated) layer thickness. Since almost all of them absorb moisture, such an insulator is protected from moisture on top and bottom by a membrane film.

The choice of material for thermal insulation of the attic floor is determined by the following criteria:

1. Material costs, including delivery costs.
2. Local availability of material.
3. Easy to install.
4. Health safety.
5. Fire safety.

You can reduce the stress of a building's structure by choosing insulation with a lower volumetric weight and a low heat absorption rate.