Insulation of walls made of porous (ceramic) blocks. Large-format ceramic blocks and their cladding Ceramic blocks and ventilation gap

A single-layer ceramic wall has significant advantages over double-layer walls. Porous ceramic blocks are a very durable material, the service life of a wall is similar material Experts estimate it to be 100 years or more.

If directly compared with two-layer wall structures, then their major repairs will be required very soon, the forecast period is 30 - 35 years, and even 20 years for low-quality polystyrene. Ordinary cheap insulation will fail during this period and will basically lose its unique properties.

Other advantages of a single layer ceramic wall

A single-layer ceramic wall is much more resistant to all kinds of damage than a two-layer one. Violations facade finishing will not lead to such consequences as if they disturbed the finish above mineral wool or polystyrene foam.
Also:

There is no risk of moisture if construction technology is violated or layers are damaged. Indeed, if you violate the principles of insulation in double-layer walls, you can easily over-moisten the structure.
A single-layer wall is generally cheaper. If the quality of the materials is comparable, then in any case, a single-layer structure will have a lower final price.
easier, faster to build. During construction, simplicity and manufacturability often dictate design features. You need to look for insulation specialists to do the second layer correctly, etc. These questions simply disappear.

What is known

From blocks of porous ceramics it is possible to build a single-layer wall with satisfactory heat-saving properties for moderate and warm climates.

But in cold regions, a single-layer block wall cannot provide the necessary thermal insulation.

There it is necessary (it becomes more profitable) to build two-layer walls, in which the load-bearing layer is covered with insulation.

Heat-saving properties of ceramic blocks

A reduction in thermal conductivity in products made of porous ceramics is achieved due to the presence of many closed cavities with air. The production of ceramic blocks is in many ways similar to the production of ordinary bricks, but components are added to the material, which burn when fired, forming pores.

Hollow blocks and bricks with large internal cavities are formed from such a mass. As a result, the thermal conductivity coefficient of the ceramic block is 0.15 - 0.17 W/mK, and for hollow brick- 0.2 W/mK.

Humidity affects these values, but to a much lesser extent than for aerated concrete blocks, which have less porosity and a larger number of pores.

How to make the entire masonry and wall warm

Ceramic blocks high precision manufacturing, with dimensional inaccuracy in height no more than 1 mm (polished), can be laid on thin layer glue or special adhesive foam.

In these cases, the thermal conductivity coefficient finished masonry from ceramic blocks does not increase significantly compared to the blocks themselves.

The masonry and wall may lose possible heat-saving properties if only a thick layer of ordinary heavy mortar is used. Then the large-scale cold bridges that form simply neutralize the achievements of warm ceramics.

Selection of blocks and mortar based on heat loss

Blocks are usually produced in lengths of 25, 38, 44 and 51 cm. They are placed across the wall, with the embossed side surface to the adjacent blocks. Then the thickness of the wall is equal to the length of the block.

Let's look at an example. For the Moscow region, the required heat transfer resistance of the walls of a house is no less than 3.15 m2*K/W. Approximately the same value is for masonry made of ceramic blocks 51 cm thick, made with heat-saving mortar or glue.

But if you use ordinary cement-lime mortar, then the heat transfer resistance of the wall will be 2.7 - 2.8 m2*K/W.

For the construction of private houses up to 3 floors in non-cold climates, it is more profitable to use blocks instead of bricks, the masonry of which is more expensive and much colder.

Reduce the number of additional blocks

Vertical joints between blocks with a tongue-and-groove side surface are not filled with mortar. Their filling is necessary in the case of using additional blocks with smooth edges or bricks.

A large number of such blocks can be in corners, wall bends, and near openings.
If the vertical seams between the blocks are filled with mortar, the thermal conductivity of the wall will increase. The number of such places should be minimized.

House designs made from ceramic blocks provide for distances that are multiples of an integer number of blocks, so the use of additional ones is kept to a minimum.
To increase heat savings, it is recommended to build a house in accordance with the project.

What size ceramic blocks to choose

A wall made of ceramic blocks with unfilled vertical joints must be plastered on both sides to reduce air permeability.

On the outside, only a special vapor-permeable plaster layer should be used. You can further increase the heat-saving properties of the wall if you apply warm plaster on the outside with a layer of 4 cm thick.

A popular technology is in which a wall made of ceramic blocks is lined with hollow façade bricks. Masonry is carried out without leaving air gap. The wall thickness increases by at least 12 cm. At the same time, the thermal insulation characteristics also increase slightly.

Therefore, for the southern regions and Ukraine, ceramic blocks 38 cm long (masonry thickness 38 cm) are more often used, plastered on the outside with a layer of warm plaster 4-7 cm, or lined with hollow facade bricks. Such a wall will have satisfactory heat-saving properties for regions with mild winters.

Suitable wall width

If the heat transfer resistance of the wall turns out to be lower than the recommendations of SNiP 02.23.2003, then it is possible to compensate for the deficiency and bring the total heat loss of the building in accordance with the requirements of the standards by increasing the insulation of other building structures, in accordance with design solutions.

It should be taken into account that a wide wall places increased demands on the strength and size of the foundation.

A wall made of porous ceramic blocks can be wider than the base by no more than 20%, and up to 30% when confirmed by strength calculations in the project.

It is not economically profitable to build a ceramic wall wider than 63 cm (51 + 12), since a significant amount of expensive durable material (porous ceramics) will be spent on insulation, which is not needed due to strength requirements.

Actually, this is a condition for switching to the construction of two-layer walls with a narrow load-bearing layer in northern regions.

Construction of wall insulation made of ceramic blocks, thermal insulation measures in various places of masonry

Reinforced concrete and metal elements structures that have much greater thermal conductivity than the wall itself, so they are necessarily fenced from the street side with an additional layer of insulation.

Crossbars—reinforced concrete lintel beams—are installed above window or door openings. These are standard elements specifically designed for openings in wide walls. WITH outside they are surrounded by at least a 10 cm layer of mineral wool and a thin layer of ceramics.
The ceilings on the floors and the mauerlat timber for the roof must rest on a reinforced concrete frame, made as a solid structure above all load-bearing walls at the floor level, and evenly distributing the loads on the walls. This reinforced concrete frame ( concrete belt) are fenced on the street side with at least 10 cm of moderately hard mineral wool insulation and additional ceramic blocks.
Domestic load-bearing walls tied with masonry to the outer walls. Blocks interior walls on the street side they are fenced in the same way.
Reinforced concrete plinth on which load-bearing walls rest (masonry made of ceramic blocks can only rest on a monolithic strip foundation sufficient rigidity according to the design), the outside is enclosed with extruded polystyrene foam insulation (usually at least 8 cm thick according to calculation) or foam glass with a thickness of 12 cm or more.

How to Insulate Block Walls in Cold Climates

In cold climates, walls made of porous ceramics of a reasonable thickness cannot meet the requirements for heat conservation, so they must be insulated with an additional (second) layer of insulation.

In this case, the supporting layer of porous ceramics is made relatively narrow; usually the width of the masonry is from 25 cm. More vapor-permeable insulation layers made of mineral wool or low-density aerated concrete are used as insulation for the blocks.

The use of vapor barrier materials - polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, foam glass - creates a risk of wetting the load-bearing wall itself.

What insulation to use

The following insulation materials are used to insulate walls made of ceramic blocks.

Rigid mineral wool slabs with a density of 125 kg/m3 and more. They are glued to the masonry and plastered on top with a thin layer of vapor-transparent plaster.
Flexible mineral wool boards with a density of 45 - 80 kg/m3. They are placed under the façade trim lathing, covered with a vapor diffusion membrane, and additionally secured with dowels.
Rigid slabs of aerated concrete with a density of 100 - 200 kg/m3.

IN Lately learned how to make low-density autoclaved aerated concrete with a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.05 - 0.06 W/mOK and sufficient structural strength, class B1.0 (compressive strength from 10 kg/m3, vapor permeability coefficient 0.28 mg/(m*year* Pa).

How to make insulation

The slabs are laid in masonry on the foundation (starting strip) and glued to the load-bearing layer, plastered with vapor-transparent plaster with fiberglass mesh.

These insulation materials can be lined with ceramic bricks, leaving a ventilation gap, and the wall will already have three layers, since the brick layer will be self-supporting and rests on the foundation.

A ventilation gap is left between the insulation and the brick cladding and upward air movement is ensured, similar to a ventilated facade.

When choosing insulation for walls made of ceramic blocks, the main factor remains the durability of the material.

For tough mineral wool slabs from famous manufacturers The service life is set at 35 years. But for aerated concrete blocks this figure is higher. Therefore, recently, aerated concrete has become a significant alternative to mineral wool.

Since the base on which the first row of blocks is laid is never level, the first row is placed on a leveling layer.
To begin with, a thin layer of waterproof mortar is applied to the surface of the base, to the area of the future masonry. Then the layer is rolled out roll waterproofing, observing the rule - flush with the surface of the future external wall and a 2-3 cm outlet inside, under the internal walls the outlet is arranged on both sides.
The next step more is applied thick layer masonry mortar, which is leveled to ensure a uniform level. Before installing the blocks, a thin layer of pure cement should be applied to the surface of the leveling layer. This will prevent the slot block from being immersed in a relatively soft solution, which would negate the preliminary work on preparing the leveling layer.
After preparatory work begin installing the corner blocks using a level and a rubber mallet. Next, the distance between the corners is measured, and the first row of blocks is laid out completely, while horizontal sliding of the blocks is not allowed; each block along the tongue-and-groove direction is pushed in from above.

After laying the entire perimeter of the wall, work is stopped for 12 hours. And it begins again with the installation of corner blocks. The position of each block is checked using a level and a cord guide; the position is corrected using a rubber mallet. It is also necessary to check the verticality of the masonry with a level and plumb line.
If necessary, give blocks required size you can use a reciprocating saw or an alligator saw, more about this in the article How to cut ceramic blocks.

The connection of the outer wall with the inner walls and partitions is carried out using perforated steel anchors placed in the pastel seam of every second row.
To prevent the load from the ceiling from being transferred to the partitions in the future, it is important to follow the rule - non-load-bearing walls should be 1-2 cm below the load-bearing walls. In the future, the gap can be filled with polyurethane foam.
Every day, upon completion of work, it is necessary to cover the masonry of slotted blocks with a tarpaulin or covering films, otherwise, in case of rain, the voids of the porous blocks will be filled with water.

Technologies for constructing walls of a private house are developing in three main directions:

Relatively thin and durable walls are insulated with highly effective insulation. The wall consists of two layers- a load-bearing layer that absorbs mechanical loads, and a layer of insulation.
For the construction of single-layer walls, materials are used that combine a sufficiently high resistance to both mechanical stress and heat transfer. The construction of single-layer walls from cellular concrete(autoclaved aerated concrete, gas silicate) or porous ceramics.
A combination of these two technologies is also used when walls made of cellular and porous materials provide additional insulation layer high effective insulation. This combination allows make both wall masonry and a thin layer of insulation. This can be beneficial for structural reasons, especially when building a house in a cold climate.

Advantages of single-layer house walls made of warm ceramics

Especially in areas with mild winter more profitable and easier to build a private house with single-layer stone external walls. Modern building materials make it possible to build a single-layer wall of reasonable thickness and required strength that is sufficiently heat-saving for the specified climate.

Compared to two- or three-layer walls, single layer construction outdoor stone wall has the following advantages:

The total cost of building a house with single-layer external stone walls with a masonry thickness of up to 51 cm, at least, does not exceed the cost of building a two-layer, and less than a three-layer wall. Such walls make it possible to provide high consumer properties dwellings, and at the same time reduce the cost of construction in areas with less severe winters.
The homogeneous design of a single-layer stone wall provides greater durability, environmental friendliness, and better resistance to mechanical, fire and climatic influences. In the thickness of a single-layer wall there are no less durable and impact-resistant insulation materials and polymer films, there are no ventilated gaps, there is no risk of moisture accumulation at the boundary of the layers, no protection from rodents is required.
A house with external single-layer walls made of stone materials has a predicted durability of 100 years, service life up to the first overhaul- 55 years. For comparison, the duration efficient operation For buildings insulated with mineral wool or polystyrene slabs, the period before the first major repair is 25-35 years. During this period it is required complete replacement insulation.
Single layer wall least susceptible to accidental or deliberate damage.
Single layer wall is a guarantee of absence hidden defects: it is impossible to place insulation poorly in it, since the insulation is the masonry material itself; it is impossible to perform a bad vapor barrier in it, since it does not need a vapor barrier; the entire wall is in front of your eyes and you don’t have to worry about the state of the foam or mineral wool hidden in its depths - nothing is hidden in the wall.
Laying a single-layer wall is faster, since it is carried out from large-format blocks and does not require additional work for wall insulation.
For laying single-layer walls, as a rule, blocks with a tongue-and-groove side surface are used, which makes it possible not to fill the vertical joints of the masonry with mortar. As a result masonry mortar consumption is reduced by 30-40%.

For example, in Germany, approximately 50% of private houses are built with single-layer walls made of autoclaved aerated concrete (gas silicate) or porous ceramics. According to this site, 10% of readers chose single-layer walls for their home.

Porous ceramics manufactured from raw materials and in a manner that is similar to the production of conventional ceramic bricks. The difference is that components are added to the clay-based mass, which form pores when fired.

Hollow large-format blocks and bricks are made from porous ceramics. The hollowness further increases the heat-saving properties of products made from porous ceramics.

Masonry of a house wall from large-format blocks of porous ceramics with brick cladding of the facade

The compressive strength of porous bricks is higher than that of blocks. But a brick wall turns out to be more thermally conductive compared to masonry made from large-format blocks. In addition, brickwork is more labor intensive. For low-rise construction up to 3 floors it is more profitable to use large-format blocks rather than porous bricks.

On the construction market there are blocks of several standard standard sizes, from which single-layer masonry can be made with a thickness of 25, 38, 44 and 51 cm.

When laying the wall, large-format hollow blocks made of porous ceramics Place the long side across the wall. The thickness of the wall is equal to the length of the block.

For single-layer walls, blocks with a masonry thickness of 38, 44, or 51 cm are used. For double-layer walls with facade insulation, the masonry thickness is most often chosen 38, 44 or 25 cm.

A single-layer wall made of large-format blocks of porous ceramics 44 cm thick with masonry on a heat-saving mortar will have a heat transfer resistance of 3.33 m 2 *K/W. Such a wall complies with Russian energy saving standards for private houses located south of the St. Petersburg - Kazan - Orenburg line. North of this border, blocks with a masonry thickness of 51 cm are used, or two-layer walls are chosen from blocks of porous ceramics, with a masonry thickness of 25 - 44 cm and the facade is insulated with mineral wool or heat-insulating slabs made of low-density aerated concrete.

Except blocks standard size, produce small-format additional blocks - halves and blocks of a size convenient for dressing masonry in corners.

Porous large-format blocks, as a rule, have a compressive strength of 75 or 100 kg/m2 (M75, M100). The strength of porous bricks and small-format blocks can be M150, M175.

For construction it is advantageous to choose finished project house, which initially involves laying walls from porous large-format blocks. The horizontal dimensions and height of walls, openings, and piers in such a project will be chosen so that the need for cutting blocks is minimized. It is better to adapt the design of a house with walls made of other materials to walls made of large-format ceramics.

Mortar for laying walls made of porous ceramics

The side surface of ceramic blocks usually has a profiled tongue-and-groove surface, which allows them to be connected without masonry mortar in a vertical seam. This connection facilitates and speeds up the laying, but requires the mason to be careful - the joints of the blocks must be smooth, without gaps or distortions. When laying cut blocks, the vertical joint must be filled with mortar.

To reduce the air permeability (blowability) of the wall, The masonry must be plastered on both sides.

The blocks can be laid using ordinary cement-lime masonry mortar with a joint thickness of 8-12mm. But It is beneficial to use a heat-saving mortar for laying walls made of porous blocks. This solution has lower thermal conductivity than the traditional one.

A wall made of porous ceramic blocks 44 cm thick on a heat-saving mortar will have a heat transfer resistance of 3.33 m 2 *K/W, and when laying on ordinary mortar only 2.78 m 2 *K/W.

A wall built using a heat-saving mortar will cost more, about 10%, than masonry using a traditional composition.

It should also be taken into account that the heat-saving solution reduces the compressive strength of the masonry by approximately 20%. Therefore, the use of heat-saving mortar for masonry walls should be provided for in the project.

Masonry of porous blocks in two-layer walls with facade insulation is usually carried out using traditional cement-lime masonry mortar. A slight increase in the thermal conductivity of the wall in this case is not so critical.

Before laying on the solution The blocks must be moistened with water. This is necessary so that the water from the solution is less absorbed into the ceramics of the block. Otherwise, the solution in the joint will quickly lose water and will not gain strength.

Some manufacturers produce blocks with milled (polished) horizontal edges. This processing makes it possible to achieve minimal deviations in the size of blocks in height, no more than plus or minus 1 mm.

The laying of blocks with milled edges is carried out using an adhesive solution with a seam thickness of 2-3 mm. Installing blocks with glue increases the heat transfer resistance of the wall compared to laying with mortar.

In the European Union countries, laying milled blocks on polyurethane foam glue - foam - is gaining popularity. From regular polyurethane foam the composition is characterized by faster setting and less ability to increase volume. Laying on adhesive foam reduces bearing capacity walls

Features of masonry walls made of large-format ceramic blocks

It should be noted that wall materials for single-layer walls have mediocre both mechanical and thermal properties. We have to improve them with various design tweaks.

A large-format ceramic block is pressed against an already installed block and lowered vertically onto the solution so that no gap is formed in the vertical seam between the blocks.

Hollow ceramic blocks are cut using special stone-cutting saws - hand-held or on a stone-cutting machine.

To lay communications in the masonry of the wall, you have to punch holes - fines. Horizontal and vertical fines along the entire length of the wall or the height of the floor are allowed to be made with a depth of no more than 3 cm. Short vertical fines located in the lower third of the floor height are allowed to be made up to 8 cm deep.

Deeper grooves weaken the wall's masonry. Therefore, their dimensions and location must be indicated in the project and confirmed by calculations. Deep and extended cuts are especially dangerous for walls less than 30 cm thick.

After laying communications, the grooves in the external walls are filled with heat-saving mortar.

Connection of external and internal walls from large-format ceramic blocks

Internal walls are bearing, taking the load from the structures lying above - floors, roofs, and self-supporting- partitions.

Internal load-bearing walls are erected simultaneously with the laying of external walls. Load-bearing walls must rest on the foundation. In turn, load-bearing walls serve as support for the floors and roof truss system.

1 - load-bearing internal wall, 38 or 25 cm; 2 - thermal insulation, 5 cm; 3 - outer wall

Internal load-bearing walls connect with outer wall method of dressing masonry. To do this, insert a block of the inner wall, position 1 in the figure, into the outer wall, position 3, to a depth of 10-15 cm. The blocks are inserted not in each row, but every other row. In the second course of masonry, the inner wall block is simply adjacent to the outer wall masonry block.

Partitions in the house They serve only to separate rooms. They do not bear the load from the overlying structures of the house. The laying of partitions can be done simultaneously with the construction of external walls, but it is more convenient to do this after the construction of the frame of the house.

In any case, the height of the partition should be 2-3 cm below the ceiling so that the ceiling cannot put pressure on the partition. The gap between the ceiling and the masonry of the partition is sealed, for example, with a strip of mineral wool.

Non-load-bearing internal walls and partitions can be connected to external walls using galvanized steel anchors, placing at least 3 pieces in the masonry joints. along the height of the partition.

The basis for partitions made of masonry materials can be a ceiling or concrete screed floor on the ground. The ceiling or other foundation must be designed to bear the load from the weight of the partition. If necessary, provide reinforcement of the base by installing a monolithic reinforced concrete beam under the partition.

The thickness of the masonry is chosen based on need provide the necessary sound insulation between rooms. Solid, without doorways, partitions separating living rooms from other rooms in the house, it is recommended to make it from ceramic blocks with a masonry thickness of 25 cm.

Other partitions are made of ceramic blocks or bricks with a masonry thickness of 12 cm.

To improve sound insulation, it is recommended to fill vertical joints in the masonry of partitions and internal walls with mortar.

Foundation and basement of a house made of ceramic blocks

If the foundation of the house is made of prefabricated concrete blocks, then a monolithic reinforced concrete belt must be installed on top of the blocks. The masonry of walls made of large-format ceramic blocks should be supported by a continuous strip of reinforced concrete.

The thickness of single-layer walls of a house made of large-format blocks is quite large: 38 - 51 cm. To reduce construction costs, the width of the foundation (basement) walls is made smaller than the load-bearing walls of the house. wide wall the house hangs on one or both sides over more narrow wall base Vertically, the wall of the plinth falls behind the surface of the masonry walls of the house.

Without performing calculations, the width of the plinth wall can be made 20% narrower than the thickness of the masonry made of porous blocks. For example, with a block masonry thickness of 44 cm, the width of the plinth wall can be reduced to 35 cm. Reducing the width of the plinth wall by 30% is allowed, but must be confirmed by the designer’s calculations. The horizontal surface of the wall overhang above the plinth is plastered from below.

To protect the ceramic walls of the house from splashing water and moisture when the snow melts, it is recommended to choose a height of at least 30 cm above the level of the blind area.

Ceiling in the wall made of large-format ceramic blocks

1 - compensation tape; 2 — seam reinforcement (if necessary); 3 - reinforced concrete belt; 4 - thermal insulation 10 cm; 5 — additional ceramic block; 6 - wall made of ceramic blocks; 7 - pillow from cement mortar not less than 2 cm. 8 - prefabricated monolithic, often ribbed ceiling; 9 - concrete screed 5 cm; 10 - thermal and sound insulation.

At the level of supporting the floors on load-bearing walls made of ceramic blocks, a continuous reinforced concrete belt is installed, pos. 3 in the picture. A continuous belt is installed on top of all load-bearing walls of the house. A monolithic reinforced concrete belt forms a rigid frame that absorbs the vertical and horizontal loads of the floors, as well as the upper floors, and evenly transfers them to the load-bearing walls of the house.

The installation of a monolithic belt is mandatory if the floor is made of monolithic or precast reinforced concrete. Reinforced concrete belt is also required in seismic hazard areas. The minimum dimensions of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt in section are 150x150 mm.

By the way, you can also use large-format ceramic blocks to install floors in your home.

Length of support for prefabricated reinforced concrete, precast monolithic or monolithic ceiling on a wall made of large-format porous ceramic blocks should be at least 125 mm.

Steel and wooden beams prefabricated floors are supported on a monolithic reinforced concrete belt with a width of 150 mm and a height of at least 100 mm. The belt is installed under the ceiling.

IN one-story houses beams wooden floor it is allowed to rest on a masonry of three rows of solid ceramic bricks. Monolithic belt You don’t have to do this in such houses.

Window in the wall made of porous ceramic blocks

1 - seam reinforcement (if necessary); 2 — additional ceramic block; 3 - thermal insulation 10 cm; 4 - window; 5 - masonry made of large-format ceramic blocks; 6 — reinforced concrete lintels; 7 - reinforced concrete belt; 8—frequently ribbed ceiling; 9 — heat and sound insulation slabs; 10 - concrete screed 5 cm; 11 - compensation tape.

As lintels over window and doorways, item 6 in the figure, it is recommended to use reinforced concrete products— crossbars specially designed for walls made of large-format ceramic blocks. Such lintels have dimensions convenient for placement in the wall and do not require adjustment to adjacent wall elements.

Heat loss through windows can also be reduced by using modern designs. When making heat-saving windows, the number of chambers in a double-glazed window is increased, special glass with a selective heat-reflecting layer is used, and the thickness of the window frame is increased.

It is recommended to install roller shutters on the windows of a private house from the outside. Closed roller shutters not only protect windows from burglary, but in severe frosts they reduce heat loss through the windows, and in summer heat reduce overheating at home sun rays. It is better to foresee the installation of roller shutters on windows in advance, at the design stage of the house.

Connecting the roof to a wall made of ceramic blocks

1 - mauerlat beam; 2 - monolithic reinforced concrete belt; 3 — additional block made of porous ceramics; 4 - masonry of the wall from large-format blocks; 5 - insulation boards

The roof of the house rests on walls made of large-format ceramic blocks through a monolithic reinforced concrete belt, position 2 in the figure. A continuous belt is installed on top of all load-bearing walls of the house. A monolithic reinforced concrete belt forms a rigid frame that absorbs the vertical and horizontal loads of the roof and evenly transfers them to the load-bearing walls of the house.

Finishing single-layer walls from large-format ceramic blocks

Warm ceramic walls, both outside and inside, can be plastered with traditional cement-lime plaster.

For interior decoration Gypsum plaster solutions are also used.

Heat-saving plaster can be applied to the facade of the house in a layer of up to 10 cm. This will significantly increase the heat-saving characteristics of the external walls.

The facade of a house made of ceramic blocks is often faced with facing or clinker bricks. There is no need to create a ventilated gap between the wall made of ceramic blocks and the cladding masonry.

Watch the video tutorial on how to properly lay walls from large-format ceramic blocks.

Porous ceramic blocks in your city

Porous ceramic block for walls.

Insulation of walls made of porous ceramics

When building a house in areas with harsh winters, walls made of warm ceramics require additional insulation.

The outside walls are covered with a layer of highly efficient insulation - slabs of mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam.

Foam glass slabs are glued to the wall masonry. Plaster is applied on top metal grid. The mesh and insulation boards are fixed with dowels to the wall.

More expensive ones are used less often thermal insulation boards foam glass with double-sided fiberglass coating. Fiberglass provides good adhesion to cement-sand mortar and other building materials. Compared with traditional insulation, foam glass thermal insulation is more durable, has increased compressive strength, does not get wet, does not burn, is environmentally friendly, is not damaged by rodents, and is vapor-tight.

Thermal insulation slabs made of low-density aerated concrete (gas silicate)- another one, comparatively new material, is gaining popularity for insulating facades. Some manufacturers have learned to make and produce aerated concrete with a density of 200 kg/m 3 or less, with a fairly high strength index.

When insulating walls, at the boundary between masonry and insulation, there is a risk of water vapor condensation and moisture accumulation in the wall.

For walls made of warm ceramics, the following facade insulation options are most often used:

Plates are fixed to the wall for facade insulation from mineral wool with a density of at least 125 kg/m 3 or thermal insulation slabs made of low-density aerated concrete. The façade is finished with a thin-layer vapor-permeable material.
medium density 45 — 75 kg/m 3. Insulation boards are placed between the lathing of the ventilated facade.
Walls insulated with slabs of mineral wool or low-density aerated concrete can be faced with brick, but there must be a space between the cladding and the insulation. arrange a ventilated gap.
When insulating with extruded polystyrene foam or foam glass, thin-layer insulation is used to finish the façade. facade plaster on insulation or .

When insulating walls with polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam or foam glass, it is important to choose the correct layer thickness. If the insulation thickness is too small, steam will condense and moisture will accumulate at the border with the masonry wall. The thickness of the insulation from these materials is selected based on the calculation of moisture accumulation in the wall. Consult local planners on this topic.

When insulating walls with mineral wool or aerated concrete, moisture accumulation in the wall does not occur regardless of the thickness of the insulation.

When choosing a method of finishing a facade, it should be taken into account that the service life of mineral wool and polymer insulation is significantly shorter than brickwork cladding. It is recommended to use more durable mineral insulation under brick cladding.- thermal insulation boards made of low-density autoclaved aerated concrete or foam glass boards with double-sided fiberglass coating, for example, trademark FOAMGLAS® BOARDS WALL BOARD W+F.

Thermal insulation boards made of autoclaved aerated concrete have a density of 100 - 200 kg/m 3 and a dry thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.045 - 0.06 W/m o K. Mineral wool and polystyrene foam insulation have approximately the same thermal conductivity. Slabs with a thickness of 60 - 200 mm are produced. Compressive strength class B1.0 (compressive strength not less than 10 kg/m 3.) Vapor permeability coefficient 0.28 mg/(m*year*Pa).

Let us consider in detail why to fill the technological gap between the cladding and the Porotherm block with a solution based on perlite. And so, according to the Porotherm block laying technology, after the block is installed, the outer vertical seam must be carefully covered with mortar. Briefly, why this needs to be done, since masonry with a ceramic porous block is carried out with a groove - a ridge, and the block may not have the correct geometric shape or the worker will not place the block close to each other, then in the place where the groove-ridge will be there will be a gap, in other words, a gap. If you do not seal the vertical seam from the outside, but only plaster it from the inside, then closed convection will not work and the block will lose its thermal efficiency. In order to comply with the rules for laying a block, it was necessary to first raise the wall with a block, and then, when the seams were sealed, begin to lift the cladding. I do it the other way around, raise the lining by 2 - 3 rows of porotherm, then put the block down. This is convenient because you don’t have to install additional scaffolding for laying facing bricks, because both the scaffolding and the work on their construction cost money.

If you choose the most The right way first lay the block then the cladding, then here are some tips for you:

Place connections in the mortar joint of the block in advance so that you don’t have to drill anything later.
Put the house under the roof and then finish it with cladding.
Do not buy facing brick in advance (it may begin to mold, there may be ants and they will drag soil there and the brick will be dirty, get wet in the rain and efflorescence will begin to appear on it).
Leave the vent. the gap between the cladding and block 1 is 1.5 cm.

You may be wondering why I fill the gap with perlite mortar rather than regular mortar or leave it empty altogether? I decided to do this because the manufacturer recommends placing the ceramic porous POROTHERM block on a warm solution, and it is on perlite. I put POROTHERM 44 on a regular solution, but pouring those. I fill the gap with perlite mortar and close the vertical seams, additionally insulate the wall and remove cold bridges.

The composition of the mixture is perlite.

I made the pouring mixture as follows:

I took 2 buckets of M75 perlite for one batch, my bucket is 12 liters, a 130 liter concrete mixer, 1 bucket of sand, half a bucket of M500 cement, half a bucket of water, maybe more or less, and soap.

Now about the kneading process itself:

Pour water then, turn off the concrete mixer, set it with the hole at the top, carefully (perlite is very volatile) pour out two buckets of perlite, turn on the mixer and place it in working position twist for 7-9 minutes (perlite has the property of first taking up water and starting to clump, then turning into mush) if necessary, add water. After the slurry is obtained, fill a bucket of sand (do not mix with sand for a long time), the perlite is mixed with the sand, add cement and mix for no more than 2 minutes, it is no longer recommended that the perlite granules will be broken by the sand and the thermal efficiency will be lost.

Time is the most impartial judge, and it clearly shows that the outer walls of buildings, finished ceramic materials, are practically not subject to destruction and retain their original appearance for many decades. Therefore, today manufacturers offer us not only traditional tiles and bricks.

One of the new products that recently appeared on the building materials market is a porous ceramic block with cladding. What is this material, what are its advantages and disadvantages?

You will learn about this and much more by reading the information we offer, as well as by watching the video in this article.

If ceramic facing materials try to somehow classify, then two main categories can be distinguished. The first is materials mounted on finished walls: tiles for adhesive cladding (see Cladding with ceramic tiles: a job that anyone can handle), panels for arranging ventilated facades (see Cladding a house with external panels: choosing).

The second category includes materials that are both finishing and structural. This different kinds ceramic bricks and ceramic blocks on the cladding, which will be discussed now.

It is possible to finish walls with such materials only during the masonry process, otherwise it would be necessary to top up the old one or build a new foundation. The reason for this is the significant weight and large format of the cladding elements - and this can equally be both a disadvantage and an advantage.

Advantages of structural ceramics

We cannot deny the advantages of clay brick, which has been used for centuries to build walls and has long become a classic in construction. But this method has one significant drawback - it takes a lot of time, and this cannot but affect the cost of objects.

So:

In this regard, facing ceramic blocks have a huge advantage over brick. A full-size block has an average format of 380*250*219 mm, which is double more sizes bricks Accordingly, the speed of construction of enclosing structures also doubles - and this is at least.
It is very convenient to work with such material, especially since where the wall thickness should be 1.5 bricks, it is enough to lay one block. For those who are going to build a house with their own hands, this is a great advantage: the geometry of the masonry is ideal even for those who do not have mason qualifications and are taking on such work for the first time.

Ceramic blocks are called porous not only because there are voids in the structure of the products. It's all about the technology of their manufacture. The raw material for the production of blocks consists not only of sand and clay, it also contains filler in the form of small sawdust. During the firing process, the wood filler burns out, forming pores in the material itself. And what about the voids and corrugated sides finished goods obtained by passing through vacuum presses.
The presence of closed cavities, which we see in the photo, significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the material, and this indicator for porous blocks is many times higher than for traditional brick. For this reason, they are also called warm ceramics. It is clear that for housing construction this is just a godsend, since walls built from such blocks do not require insulation.
Moreover, the presence of pores and voids does not in any way reduce the compressive strength of the material - let alone sound insulation! Everyone knows that the porous structure of materials provides excellent sound absorption. The undoubted advantages of warm ceramics include hundreds of freeze-thaw cycles, as well as low water absorption (within 6-12%) and high fire resistance.

The price of a ceramic block is on average 110 rubles. a piece. The cost of a brick, even an ordinary one, is at least 15 rubles; facing brick costs 18-21 rubles. But in one cubic meter there are only 40 pieces of blocks, while there are 510 pieces of single bricks in a cube - the mathematics is simple, and everyone can calculate which is more profitable.

Well, the instructions in the next chapter will tell you about the technical side of building walls from ceramic blocks.

Features of masonry work

Thanks to the large format of the ceramic blocks, the joints between them occupy only five percent of the wall area. Compared to brickwork, this is not much, but this may be quite enough for the wall to lose significant part heat. For this reason, for the installation of porous cement-sand mortar not used.

Masonry mortar

To install porous blocks - and not only ceramic, but also cellular concrete - it is necessary to use mixtures that contain a heat-insulating filler. These are natural raw materials: perlite and vermiculite, which have excellent thermal insulation qualities.

In addition, warm solutions contain fiber fiber (a reinforcing additive) and plasticizers that make the hardened seam impermeable to moisture.

As for reinforcing additives, their use does not allow the freshly applied mixture to settle into the cavity of the blocks, and the seams that have gained strength become more resistant to deformation. Modifying additives make the solution more plastic and significantly reduce its consumption.

Preparation of a solution from a dry mixture consists of only two operations: adding water (about 10 liters per bag) and mixing with a mixer or concrete mixer. The viability of the solution lasts approximately 2 hours, so make it immediately large volume doesn't make sense.
When the viscosity of the solution used increases, it is strictly forbidden to add water to it - just mix it in a container. The mixtures are sold dry, in 20 kg bags. From this amount, approximately 30 liters of ready-made mortar is obtained, and, taking into account the thickness of the seam of 12 mm, it is enough for 1 m2 of masonry.

A bag of warm masonry mixture costs about 300 rubles, and this, of course, is a considerable expense. To reduce mortar consumption, as well as for reinforcing horizontal rows, many manufacturers recommend laying blocks on a fine-mesh fiberglass mesh.

It keeps the mixture from falling into the voids of the underlying blocks. There is one more important nuance: the solution entering the voids of the blocks displaces air from them, which reduces the resistance of the masonry to heat transfer. Therefore, a grid is needed, no matter how you look at it.

The feasibility of using ceramic stone

Ceramic blocks, or, as their name means, standard: ceramic stones- like a brick, they can be ordinary and front. Ordinary ones are used for the construction of walls, and front ones, respectively, for their parallel cladding.

This division does not mean at all that the strength of the front blocks is lower than that of ordinary ones - they can be used for the main masonry in the same way. Just due to the improved front surface, their cost is slightly higher.

So:

In principle, both of these materials are produced according to the same standards, and the calculation of wall thickness depends on the maximum winter temperatures in the region. Let’s say in the south, where the average winter temperature is -10 degrees, the thickness of the walls should be at least 380 mm, that is, one and a half brick lengths.
If walls are erected from ceramic blocks, then use blocks measuring 380*250*219 mm and lay them in one row. The largest standard size is 510*250*219 mm, it can also be mounted in one row, but in regions with winter temperatures of -20 degrees. In this case, blocks with a front finish are used.

But in the northern regions, where winter temperatures often exceed -40 degrees, the thickness of the brickwork should be 770 mm (three bricks + joints). There are no blocks of this size, and if necessary, the masonry is made up of ordinary blocks 510 mm long and facing blocks 250 mm long.
If such a wall is laid out of brick, a lot of material is wasted, and the load on the foundation is incredibly large. This leads to overspending not only wall materials, but also those that are used for the construction of the zero cycle of the building.

Note! In order to obtain at least some savings when constructing brick walls, well masonry methods are used, laying insulation in the resulting cavities, and widening the seams. But even all these methods together are unable to make masonry more than two bricks thick economically feasible.

That is why brick houses for the regions of the Far North this is very rare. With the advent of ceramic porous blocks, the situation has changed radically, and now northerners can also build prefabricated and warm houses from ceramics.
What simplifies the most masonry work, so this is a tongue-and-groove system for connecting blocks. This joining limits the displacement trajectory of the masonry elements relative to each other, therefore the curvature of the masonry, which differs brick walls, is basically impossible here.

Another huge advantage is that vertical joints do not need to be filled with mortar. Because exactly side faces the ridge is connected into a groove, there are no cold bridges in the masonry, which are always seams.

In the struggle for buyers, many manufacturers offer not only standard full-size blocks, but also additional elements, corners, door and window lintels made of ceramics, as well as blocks for the construction of internal enclosing structures. All this is coordinated by standard sizes and ideally assembled into a single complex.

Such important nuances

Despite the fact that porous blocks have a front surface, they are still like any other construction material, need finishing. Or rather, not so much in finishing, but in protection from the effects of precipitation.

For this purpose they use decorative brick, clinker tiles or natural stone. In general, adhesive finishes are excellent option for masonry from porous blocks.

There is no need to insulate such walls; in extreme cases, you can use warm plaster (see Warm plaster Knauf Grünband), which, by analogy with masonry mortar, contains perlite. But if you really want to, you can insulate it and even finish it frame method. You just need to take into account one very important nuance.

For attachment to ceramic wall lathing, as well as hanging cabinets on it, you cannot use the usual dowel-nails, since the thin partitions inside the block may not withstand the load. For this, there are special long expansion anchors, as well as chemical dowels, which you see in the picture. Use them and you won't have any problems with fasteners!