DIY plywood workbench. Self-production of a wood carpentry workbench

Convenient workplace, well equipped, with a good carpentry workbench - can greatly facilitate processing wooden products. This makes it possible to speed up the production process and improve the quality of the final product.

If you don’t have time to make it, you can purchase a ready-made workbench from trading network. Compared to this option, hand made desktop has a number of advantages:

• the ability to get a carpentry workbench of the required size and functionality;
• rational placement of working units and additional equipment;
• purchasing a ready-made workbench will cost much more.

Requirements for the manufacture of the structure

Depending on the intended work, the carpentry table must have the following characteristics:

• The mass and rigidity of the structure must be sufficient to ensure the integrity and stability of the desktop.
• Availability of devices for securing and holding workpieces (stops, screw clamps, etc.).
• Possibility of ergonomic placement of additional equipment.
• Dimensions of the future carpentry workbench depend on the weight and dimensions of the workpieces that are supposed to be processed on it.
• The available space in the workshop should be taken into account. There are projects of compact workbenches that allow you to organize a workplace even on the balcony.
• The height of the table should be focused on the physiological characteristics of the person who will work at it.
• Additional devices should be placed taking into account the owner’s main working hand.
• Before you start designing a workbench, you need to decide whether it will be portable or stationary.

The most suitable workbench dimensions for working with wood:

• tabletop length – 2 m;
• width – 70–100 cm;
• table height from the floor – 80–90 cm.

Types of carpentry workbenches

If the workbench does not have serious functional requirements, for minor works can be used desk, converted for professional needs.

Mobile workbench

This type of carpentry workbench is relevant if there is a lack of free space in the workshop. Its length is no more than a meter, its width is 60–80 cm, and its weight usually does not exceed 30 kg. A portable mobile workbench is convenient to use for processing small workpieces, minor repairs carpentry, wood carving. Thanks to its compact size, the mobile machine can be placed in any room: in the garage, in the country house or on the balcony. For even greater compactness, a folding design is often used.

Scheme for manufacturing a mobile workbench

Stationary workbench

A full-fledged working structure tied to a specific location, without the possibility of mobile movement during operation. Designed for processing workpieces of any weight and length (within reasonable limits). This is a powerful, reliable device, made taking into account the characteristics of the workspace and the personal preferences of the master. Stationary machines are necessarily equipped with special clamps for fixing workpieces. They provide space for fixing the tool and installing additional stops.

Composite carpentry workbench

Thanks to collapsible design on bolted connections, individual machine modules can be easily replaced during operation. The main disadvantage of this device is its complexity in manufacturing (compared to other models), which is largely compensated by its variability during use.

Selecting a project and drawing up a diagram

When drawing up a project, the main parameters that need to be taken into account are height, configuration and functional equipment.

Height. For a comfortable long work the height of the workbench should not be made more than 90 cm. When determining this parameter, first of all, you should take into account your height (if the workbench is being made for yourself). Also important is the type of carpentry work that is supposed to be performed most often, and those that require the most convenient conditions for their high-quality performance.

Configuration. If there are no workspace restrictions, optimal width– 80 cm, length – 2 m. When configuring a workbench, you need to take into account the presence of shelves, compartments, doors, drawers, their number and sizes.

Functional equipment. To hold workpieces, the carpentry workbench must be equipped with two clamps. The front clamp is located on the left, the rear clamp is on the right end of the workbench. This scheme The location of the clamps is oriented towards right-handed people. If the master has the main working hand left, the clamps are positioned mirror-image relative to the above-described option.

It is necessary to provide places for fixing electrical and hand tools, technological holes for stops and limiters. Lighting and it is better to place sockets on nearby walls and objects.

Necessary materials

When selecting material for each workbench unit, you need to take into account functional features and the loads to which it will be subjected.

To ensure that the workbench does not turn out to be too massive, light wood is preferred as the material for making the frame. soft rocks:

• pine;
• alder;
• Linden.

Hardwood and plywood various thicknesses used to make countertops.

The frame for the workbench can be welded from a metal square pipe or an angle of a suitable cross-section, but most carpenters prefer wooden structures.

Making a simple table

As an example, we took the manufacture of a carpentry workbench with a tabletop 2 m long, 80 cm wide and 80 cm high. For more rational use time, first you need to glue the tabletop. While it is sticking, you can start preparing components frame and its subsequent assembly.

During the manufacturing process you will need:

• miter circular saw;
• drill;
• electric jigsaw;
• clamps.

Assembling the tabletop

Stacked (glued) board made of hardwood (ash, oak, beech, hornbeam). Recommended tabletop thickness is 60 mm. It is most rational to use planed timber with a section of 60x40 mm for its manufacture. After preparing the length of the timber, it needs to be glued together into a shield of the required width. To get a shield 80 cm wide you need to prepare 20 bars 60x40 mm.

For high-quality gluing, the following factors must be taken into account:

• The beam is strictly rectangular in cross section (not a rhombus or parallelepiped).
• The shield must be clamped with special clamps that can provide sufficient compression force.
• Gluing is done on a flat plane, and deformation during squeezing must be avoided.

You can do without all of the above and glue the shield together by sequentially compressing the bars together with self-tapping screws or even nails. But in this case, there can be no talk of any flat surface of the tabletop.

Plywood table top. Several sheets of plywood are glued together along a plane. The number of sheets to be glued depends on their thickness and the planned thickness of the countertop. For high-quality gluing of plywood, a flat plane is necessary. The quality of the finished countertop depends on how smooth this plane is.

There are two options for gluing plywood at home:

• Using boards and clamps. Glue is applied to the plywood and compressed with clamps. To ensure uniform compression, boards are placed under the clamps.
• Using boards and weights. Plywood pre-lubricated with glue is placed on a flat plane, boards are placed on top and pressed with a weight.

Making supports

The supporting legs of the work table are made of timber with a section of 100x100 mm. They look quite massive, but this is necessary to ensure structural rigidity. The transverse parts of the frame are made of the same wood as the legs. For this, a beam with a cross section of 60x60 mm is sufficient.

To avoid deformation to which solid wood parts are subject large section, it is better to use for making supports. It can be glued together from two or three pieces of smaller cross-section. For example, to make a beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, you need to glue three boards with a cross-section of 105x35 mm together along the plane. After gluing, you will get a workpiece 105x105 mm, where 5 mm is a margin for finishing.

To assemble the frame use tenon joints or dowels. This assembly option requires the presence of special equipment. Otherwise, the process will be unreasonably long. A simpler option is to use metal fasteners and fittings (bolts, screws, angles, self-tapping screws).

Frame size:

• length – 180 cm;
• width – 70 cm;
• height – 74 cm.

The height is given taking into account the thickness of the tabletop (60 mm). The length and width of the frame ensures the presence of tabletop overhangs (10 cm per side at the ends, 5 cm per side at the front and back).

When assembling you should get the following blanks:

• Stands (legs) – 100x100 mm, length 74 cm.
• Cross bars – 60x60x1600 mm (4 pcs.) and 60x60x500 mm (4 pcs.).

If you use tenon joints, then the length of the tenon (recommended 60 mm) multiplied by 2 must be added to the length of the workpiece.

Assembling the frame and tabletop

Before assembly, transverse boards with a section of 100x60x800 mm and longitudinal boards of 50x60x1800 mm need to be attached to the bottom of the tabletop along the edges. Cross boards are needed to prevent the tabletop from deforming during use. Longitudinal - for subsequent equipping of the carpentry workbench with clamps.

To securely fix the longitudinal and transverse boards, glue should be used. If you are not sure of the quality of the glue, they can be additionally secured with self-tapping screws or other metal fasteners.

If all dimensions are taken into account correctly, then the workbench frame will fit clearly between the transverse and longitudinal boards at the bottom of the tabletop. The entire structure should be fastened with bolts, through the transverse boards of the tabletop and support pillars(legs). To prevent the bolt heads from interfering, you need to drill countersunk holes for them.

Foldable design

It is advisable to use a folding workbench when the amount of work space is limited and mobility of moving the workbench during operation is required. In most cases, a portable carpentry workbench is equipped with a removable table top and a folding frame.

The tabletop can be hinged against the wall, and the legs can be folded under it. When using this design, the length of the legs should be calculated in such a way that when folded they do not interfere with each other. That is, their length should be less than half the distance between them.

These types of carpentry workbenches are designed for processing small parts. Therefore, the structural elements of these tables are not made as massive as on stationary ones. For the manufacture of support posts timber 100x40 mm, transverse 60x40 is enough.

Any board material (OSB, chipboard, plywood) can be used as a countertop material. If the thickness of the slab material is not enough, the tabletop can be reinforced with a frame made of 30x50 timber (the cross-section of the timber is determined by the planned rigidity of the tabletop).

The folding carpentry workbench is assembled using bolts. In order for the table to be quickly disassembled, it is advisable to use special wing nuts instead of ordinary nuts.

Any business man needs his own equipped workplace for storing tools and performing carpentry and plumbing work. In that case, just necessary element your workplace will become a workbench, and now we will tell you how to make a workbench on your own.

Indeed, to buy it, you will need to shell out a significant amount and, in addition, select right size it seems quite suitable for your premises challenging task. But if you do it yourself, you can choose the required size of the workbench to the nearest centimeter.

What kind of workbenches are there?

A workbench is a work table on which a craftsman performs manual work on processing wooden, metal and other parts. Self-made workbenches are installed in the garage, at the dacha and even in the apartment. The workbench is equipped with various additional devices that may be needed during work, such as stops and a vice. In addition, workbenches are equipped with containers for storing various tools and even documentation. Based on the type of work, there are carpentry, carpentry and metal workbenches.

DIY workbench video:

Carpentry workbench

A standard carpentry workbench has this design. The main parts are the bench plate and the bench. The underframe looks like a stand (usually two) that are connected to each other wooden blocks. The material of this table element is usually pine or other softwood.

The bench board or cover is made of hard wood, such as oak, and has a thickness of up to 8 cm. The surface of the board is covered with drying oil. If you are going to assemble a workbench with your own hands, then you should know what additional devices need to be installed on the tabletop.

Note!

First of all, it should be a vice located in the front part and used to fix parts.

It is necessary to make a recess in the back to store tools in it. small sizes. There are holes on the edge of the bench board into which wooden blocks and metal combs are inserted. A standard workbench is mainly suitable for self made, and if you also want to use power tools, then for this you need to choose a workbench board with a large number of holes for stops.

Mechanic's workbench

A mechanic's workbench is a more powerful structure. It has a metal frame on which it is placed wooden cover up to 6 cm thick and covered with an iron sheet. The lid is edged with a three-sided edge and, in most cases, a bench vice is installed on it. The tabletop on such workbenches is made powerful so that it can withstand high impact loads, including sledgehammers.

The material is chosen at will, but the most popular is MDF with galvanization, which allows you to protect the countertop from the influence of aggressive environments such as gasoline, oils or solvents. In addition, such a tabletop is easy to clean from dirt. The bench is equipped with several pull-out drawers for storing tools.

Carpenter's workbench

Another type of such structure is the carpenter's workbench. This workplace is designed for processing boards and has dimensions significantly larger than the two previous options. Its dimensions are up to 6 m long and 1 m wide. A stop for processing the board must be installed on the carpentry workbench. It has a triangle-shaped cutout for securing the board with wedges, and is used when processing its edges.

Making a construction workbench

Let's figure out how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. First you need to make a frame from beams, and between the legs, for strength, install a jumper and drawer ( connecting element, holding the structure together). It is advisable that they be located at a distance of about 45 cm from the floor. Installation of the workbench frame occurs in this order. First you need to prepare the grooves, then we assemble the structure and coat the connection points with glue. The final fastening is carried out using clamps.

Workbench table top

It is worth recalling that the production of any design occurs more quickly and efficiently if you have at least the simplest drawing of a carpentry workbench or part of it at hand. Below we show a drawing of the tabletop, top view.

If the tabletop is made of several boards, then it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps between them, in order to avoid dust getting in there during subsequent work. The dimensions of the tabletop should be 3-5 cm larger than the workbench itself, for greater ease of cleaning the tool. The tabletop must be sanded and varnished. This will serve as protection against getting splinters into your hands.

Installing a vice and creating stops

After we have installed the tabletop, we need to mount a vice on them. To do this, you need to cut a recess on the working surface so that you can place a vertical plate in the same plane as the tabletop. We place the vice in the place where it will stand in the future, preferably not at a corner, and make a mark for drilling. Then fasten it with nuts.

Note!

Stops can be purchased at the store, or you can make them yourself.

Then we advise you to make them rectangular shape with height adjustment. It is advisable to make holes for the stops at a length of 50% of the vice stroke. In this situation, you will be able to fix various workpieces well. Video instructions for making a workbench can be viewed in our article.

Wooden workbench

Making a metal workbench

Let's look at how you can make a mechanic's workbench with your own hands.

1. Let's determine the height of the future table. It can be different for each person, for example, if a man is 180 cm tall, then the height of the workbench is 90 cm. But still, for the final decision you need to focus only on yourself.
2. Do not forget that the drawings of the metalwork bench drawn by you will be useful for faster and higher-quality assembly.
3. For a metal workbench, the frame is best welded from a profile pipe and corners, but in extreme cases it can be made in the same way as a carpentry structure, from beams.
4. To make the structure as strong as possible, you need to place spacers between the legs. Sometimes, instead of spacers, a shelf is installed, into which you can later put tools, paint and varnish liquids, or other necessary items.
5. For structural stability, you can attach the legs to the floor. This will prevent the workbench from wobbling while working.
6. Build a countertop from MDF and galvanize it if possible. This will significantly increase its strength.
7. If you want your workbench to be equipped drawers, then place runners under the upper beams, similar to those installed for drawers in. Then you will have storage space for small parts, screws and nails.

Folding workbench

There is another type of workbenches that are used for both carpentry and plumbing work. This is a folding workbench. It is very convenient when there is no extra space in the room. After working on it, you can always fold it and put it in a corner to wait next job. In addition, when folded, it can be transported to the country house. This workbench consists of two parts: a removable workbench board and a folding table. It is usually made in smaller sizes than a stationary table.

DIY workbench video:

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In any private home, workshop or garage, a carpentry workbench is a very necessary item. With its help it is convenient to make or repair any things, and it also combines the functions of a table and a shelf for tools at the same time. It can be equipped with a bench vice, and a machine for sharpening various tools can be installed on it. If you purchase metal workbench in a store, it will cost a considerable amount of money, but it is quite possible to make a workbench from wood with your own hands.

Required tools and materials

So, to make your own workbench for the garage, you will need the following tools:

• Hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
• Roulette;
• Square;
• Building level;
• Spanners;
• Drill;
• Screwdriver.

Materials:

• bars for supports;
• 2 sheets of plywood or OSB (one of the sheets is cut to fit the shelf required size);
• boards for the frame;
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts;
• washers;
• nuts

Before work, you need to make a drawing of the workbench with dimensions for ease of assembly.

Step-by-step instructions for making a workbench

For the manufacture of upper frame it is necessary to saw off the boards based on the required size of the workbench (see photo).

Using self-tapping screws, secure 2 long and 2 short boards to form a rectangular frame. Using a tape measure, mark the distance to the middle of the frame, and perpendicularly, between two long boards, secure the remaining short board, attaching it with self-tapping screws at both ends.

To make the legs of the workbench, you will need to saw off 6 equal bars. WITH inside of the resulting base, secure one leg to each corner of the frame using bolts, washers and nuts (see diagram of the workbench).

To make the structure rigid, it is necessary to install additional boards, which will also serve as the basis for the lower shelf. To do this you need to saw off 4 boards.

Using a tape measure, you need to measure an equal distance from each leg of 30 cm, at the resulting level, fasten the board to the back of the structure to 3 legs, and from the front, fasten the board between the outer and middle legs, in the place where the future shelf is planned.

The remaining two boards must be secured to the legs, at the same level as the boards for the shelves.

From one or more sheets of plywood or OSB using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw cut out the required sections. We fix them flush to the top of the workbench using self-tapping screws. Additionally, you can fasten a sheet of hardboard on top, because it can be easily replaced with a new one if the old one is very worn out. The bottom shelf is made using the same scheme. Using a tape measure, measure the distance between the outer and middle legs of the workbench; a sheet of material is cut to this size and installed on the resulting base.

When attaching legs or crossbars, it is necessary to use a square to obtain an equal distance between parts of the structure. Using a level at the installation site, you need to check whether the workbench you made yourself is level. If there is a slope, it must be leveled by placing wooden chips under the legs of the workbench.

Design and purpose of the workbench

A carpentry workbench is a work table for manual and mechanical processing of wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: making wooden parts, assembling structures, coating them finishing compounds. A traditional carpenter's table is designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. To process longer workpieces, a carpenter's workbench is used.

A table for carpentry work consists of a bench board (cover) and a bench (supporting frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.

There are holes in the table top and the wooden jaws of the vice. They are designed for installing clamps and stops of various sections and heights.

Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, the part is placed between them and pressed with the screw mechanism of the vice. This way the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on thickness wooden part, use a stop of appropriate height that will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal workbench height?

The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. Optimal height The table is selected based on the height of the master. If, standing at the workbench, your palms rest freely on its lid, then the size has been selected correctly. At such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are best to make the structure from?

A carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to large loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are ensured not only by the features of the fastening units, but also the type of materials used.

Wood is traditionally used to make the base. coniferous species. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the bench board must be dry (humidity about 12%) without knots and other defects.

About making a workbench cover

Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to purchase a ready-made glued board, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the funds saved.

When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the lid: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately together with the workbench.

Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls

The sidewall design consists of two legs (B), drawers and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through-glued tenon.

The figured cutouts of the drawers and supports (detail A) are cut out on band saw followed by sanding the edges.

In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, markings are made on the legs for the tenons of the prongs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.

On outside The legs are tapped into a conical recess under the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.

Sawing out tenons and eyes

Spikes and eyes are made on a sawing machine or manually, guided by basic principles creating tenon joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a perfect fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared, flat surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.

Side panel assembly

Parts A and B are glued together to form a finished joint. After drying, any excess glue that appears is carefully cleaned off with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is sanded.

In the center of the glued drawer, drill a 19x38 mm hole for a dowel (L) to fix the workbench cover.

Manufacturing of pedestals and underbench shelves

According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for the legs (part C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As with the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw.

The connection of the legs with the sidewall is made detachable using a bolt tie with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and depth 32 mm is milled on the inside of the legs. A 14X95 mm hole is drilled at the ends of the legs. At this stage it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90°.

The support strips (parts D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 22 mm from the upper edges of the supports.

According to the dimensions specified in the “General detailing” drawing, the planks of the underbench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersunk at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.

Installation of the bench cover

There is no drilling on the back side of the bench board. through holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep for dowels (L).

Using a drill bit d19 mm, through holes are made on the cover for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the lid. All holes are chamfered. The stops should fit easily into the sockets and not have any play.

Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure clean holes at a perfectly right angle. It won’t be difficult to make such a guide yourself, if you have a piece of timber on hand.

Installation of a bench vise

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to buy a carpenter’s vice ready-made. In this case, you will receive the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, get rid of unnecessary headaches when installing them.

Manufacturers of bench vices try to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will look at the installation diagram standard designs. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of a non-standard bench vise.

Vise jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are cut from hardwood. After this, holes are drilled for the guide rods, lead screw, sockets for bench stops and holes for mounting screws.

The rear jaws of the front and rear vices are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.

Wooden linings (part K) are cut to fit the size of the vice. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.

Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces masking tape and a soft pencil.

A garage is a multifunctional space. In it you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.

If a person likes to spend time in the garage doing repair work, he needs to properly equip his workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional work table on which you can process various materials, carry out plumbing, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can consider shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.

Types of workbenches

Workbenches are made for processing metal (metalwork) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For metalwork models, the table top must be metal, since working with metal involves the use machine oil and other liquids that are wooden surface may leave marks.

Also when processing metal parts effort and the use of a sharp tool are often required, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal tabletop.

Woodworking benches are designed for working with wood, so they are not as durable or functional as bench models.

Workbench design

If the design of a work table for a garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully think through every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the garage table depends on this.

Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the table design can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tool, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.

Tool

Grinder with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.

Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective equipment for welding work.

2. Screwdriver.

   Jigsaw for cutting plywood.

Materials

Angle 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.

Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.

Angle 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.

Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.

Steel sheet for tabletop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.

Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.

Wooden boards for the table top. Thickness 50 mm.

Plywood for making drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15 mm

Guides for desk drawers.

Screws for assembling plywood boxes.

Self-tapping screws for metal.

Anchor bolts.

Paint for wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: table length is 220 cm, width - 75 cm. The overall design and large table top allow you to place it in different ends table vise and, for example, sandpaper or other tool.

The first step in making a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. Profile pipe intended for the manufacture of frames. The steel angle is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.

The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. This material will also be used for brackets for fastening boxes and plywood.

Table drawers are made of plywood.

Second step - welding power frame workbench. The tabletop elements are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the tabletop, it is necessary to weld a few more after 40 cm steel pipes, which will serve as stiffeners.

Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power bridges are welded between the legs to strengthen the structure.

Once the basic frame is ready, you can begin welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. The frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.

The third step is making a frame for the tabletop. Two steel angles, 2200 mm long, and two more angles, 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards fit inside it.

The angle frame is laid on a pipe frame and welded. The result is a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, all that remains is to weld the panel sheathing for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner 2200 mm long and 4 corners having a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle for reinforcement. The tool panel is welded to the tabletop.

The frame of corners and pipes is ready. You can begin to strengthen the structure. Brackets are welded to the sides of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls of the plywood table will be attached to metal frame workbench.

The fourth stage is making drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are screwed together with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If the parts are small, then you can build 3 drawers; if the parts are large, then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

You can place drawers on both sides of the table, you can mount pull-out structures on one half, and regular open shelves on the other.

After the drawers are assembled, you need to weld metal strips with holes between the sides of the drawer compartments. The slides for the drawer guides will be attached to these holes on the inside.

The fifth stage is laying the boards into the tabletop frame. Boards 50 mm thick are cut into pieces of a certain length. If you have a long board available, then you need three blanks with a width of 245 mm and a length of 2190 mm. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 pieces 740 mm long.

Before laying the wood into the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.

Then it is imperative to paint the entire metal structure workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weather-resistant and anti-corrosion coating option. You need to paint especially carefully welding seams. Drops of metal and unevenness are recommended before painting works clean thoroughly. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.

After the structure has dried, you can begin laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that wood tends to expand and dry out when temperature and humidity change. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will simplify installation metal sheet on top of the tree. The boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The sixth stage is fastening the top steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden screws to wooden boards. The metal must first be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like transparent paintwork, is easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal tabletop with the same paint that was used to cover the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time the paint may scratch and the table will not look very new.

The last stage is installing the drawers on the guides and attaching the plywood to the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called finishing workbench. After work with plywood is completed, it must be coated with a composition that will protect the material from exposure environment. Also, do not forget about the design of a power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, from which the necessary things will be hung.

To make it convenient to work at a workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bendable stand to the power panel. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the desired location.

Video - The process of making a workbench

Installing a vice on a bench

A vice is an indispensable attribute of a mechanic's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool that weighs several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket 1 cm thick between the metal of the table and the tool. You need to drill holes in the gasket for anchor bolts. Then, in the same places, drill holes of the same size in the tabletop. The entire structure is fastened with anchor bolts.

Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design

1. If the garage area is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But it is worth knowing that the entire structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
2. The workplace should be organized so that nothing disturbs a person. When working with a vice, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the tabletop.
3. Corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp or have cutting edges.
4. After repair work behind the workbench, you need to clear the workplace from metal shavings, drops of oil and other materials.
5. If homemade workbench made correctly, it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.

Plywood for board

Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage