Climbing roses (59 photos): caring for an aristocratic beauty. Climbing roses: planting and care

Gardeners have always been especially admired by the climbing rose with its long branches strewn with luxurious flowers. This is a real find for landscape designer, which allows you to create flowering arches, columns, gazebos, fences. Despite the huge lashes, reaching 5-6 m in length, all varieties of climbing roses are shrubs. One would think that in this case, planting and caring for them is similar to other types of roses, but everything is not so simple. Long whips impose special obligations on the owner of such luxury. Therefore, in order to achieve true aesthetics from a climbing rose, you need to know how to properly care for it.

All types of “queen of flowers” are considered quite capricious, and climbing roses are no exception, the care of which must be thought out to the smallest detail. And you need to start with the right choice landing time. It is best to time this event on warm days in May. In this case, you will be sure that the plants will have time to get stronger before winter and will not die during the cold weather. Climbing rose bushes with dormant buds can be planted before the trees begin to bud, as soon as the soil warms up to 10-12°. If you bought a seedling in a greenhouse (that is, with leaves), then it should be planted only after the buds have bloomed on the trees.

You can also plant bushes in August-September, but then there is always a risk of the plant dying if it does not have time to take root properly before the onset of frost.

Landing place

The area for planting climbing roses should be well lit in the first half of the day. This is important, since it is the warm morning sun that will dry the dew on the leaves and will not give a chance to fungal diseases. A completely open area is not so preferable, since midday sunlight can cause the delicate petals to “burn” and even dry out the entire plant. Be sure to pay attention to the fact that the chosen place is protected from cold northern and northeastern winds, and is not located on the corner of a building where there are constant drafts - a delicate climbing rose does not like this, its development will inevitably be inhibited.

Soil for climbing roses: what to consider?

climbing rose It develops normally only on permeable soils. This means that rain (or irrigation) water should pass freely deep into the ground and not linger in the root zone. Otherwise, rotting of the root system and death of the plant from lack of nutrition are inevitable.

Therefore, if the groundwater in your area is too close to the surface of the earth, you should plant roses only on hills. However, if this is not possible, you can do it another way: dig a hole to a depth that does not reach the groundwater level, and then concrete the bottom or put a large flat stone there. This precaution will not allow groundwater to “get” to the root zone and damage them, in addition, the tap roots will not go deep and their bulk as they grow will not be located vertically, but horizontally. After this, a sufficient layer of fertile soil is poured onto the stone or concrete, where the plant is subsequently planted.

Climbing roses grow best on fertile loams - they are sufficiently water- and breathable to ensure good nutrition of the root system. Heavy clay and light sandy soil not suitable for growing roses. At the same time, if this is the kind of soil on your site, you shouldn’t despair. The situation can be improved by adding clay soils sand, and sandy ones diluted with clay. This will adjust the soil's permeability to air and water, but will not add soil fertility. To improve this indicator, humus or humus should be added to the soil. Along with organic matter, long-lasting phosphorus fertilizers and special cultures of soil bacteria, for example, in the Baikal EM-1 preparation, are good additives. Bacteria convert substances unsuitable for plant nutrition into compounds accessible to them.

Distance between climbing roses

When planting, it is necessary to provide a distance between roses of 0.5 - 1 m in a row and 1-2 m between rows. If planting is carried out near a gazebo or the wall of a house, then the distance between the plant and the blind area should be at least 0.35 - 0.5 m.

You can divide the garden into several zones using trellises lined with climbing roses on both sides. Plants are planted in a checkerboard pattern so as not to shade each other. At the same time, the distance between them is maintained at 0.5 - 1 m, as with a conventional planting scheme. Such a screen will be decorative all summer, even when the climbing rose has faded.

Before you begin planting, the rose bush must be carefully inspected and all broken, crushed and rotten parts of the root system must be removed. Sections for disinfection are powdered with crushed charcoal to prevent the resulting wounds from rotting. Next, it is advisable to dip the roots into a mash mixture consisting of clay with an admixture of fresh mullein (10%) and phosphorobacterin. 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin are pre-dissolved in 0.5 liters of water, and then this composition is poured into 9.5 liters of mash. Mullein can be replaced with heteroauxin by adding 1 tablet to 10 liters of mash.

When planting in spring, seedlings of any variety of climbing rose are pruned. In this case, two developed buds are left on strong shoots, and one on weak shoots. If planting is done in the fall, then pruning is still done in the spring, after removal from the bushes winter shelter.

Planting and caring for young seedlings

To begin with, dig a hole, the dimensions of which should ensure the free placement of roots, and the root collar must be buried at least 10 cm. Such a measure will protect it from winter cold, since at such a depth with ordinary shelter (for example, under spruce branches), the temperature does not drop below -2 degrees. Also, deepening the root collar of self-rooted climbing roses will contribute to the formation of a large number of additional roots.

A mound of fertile soil is poured into the hole, around which the roots are spread evenly and covered, if possible, leaving no voids. After filling the hole with earth, it is compacted with feet. For better survival, self-rooted climbing roses are watered with a mixture of phosphorobacterin and heteroauxin.

When planting in spring, the seedlings are covered with plastic film, thus creating greenhouse conditions for the rose. A humid, constant microclimate is maintained under the film, which promotes the restoration of damaged roots and guarantees a high degree of survival. A prerequisite for such a mini-greenhouse is daily ventilation. To do this, it is enough to slightly open a corner of the film for a few minutes so that the plant has access to fresh air. Gradually, such “hardening” should be increased so that after two weeks the film is completely removed.

If the roots of the plant were damaged during planting, it is advisable to water it with “Kornevin” or “Zircon”. Spraying with Epin also helps the seedling adapt well.

In the first summer, the planted seedlings do not need additional feeding, since the undeveloped root system will have enough useful substances that are in the soil. Only in order to prepare roses for winter dormancy, they are fed at the end of August - beginning of September with a solution of potassium salts, for example, an infusion of wood ash.

During the growing season, the climbing rose needs regular watering, fertilizing, removing weeds, dried flowers and weak branches.

After removing the winter shelter with the onset of spring warmth, pruning is carried out, last year's plant debris is removed, the roses are sprayed with pesticides, the soil around the plant is loosened, and the necessary fertilizers are applied.

The removed plant remains are destroyed, since if the roses were possibly damaged by diseases last year, they will become a source of relapse of the disease. Plants are sprayed with pesticides for preventive purposes as early as possible - before the buds open. Most often, a solution is used for these purposes. iron sulfate(3%), but there are others, more modern means. If no diseases were observed in roses last season, this preventive measure can be skipped.

Further, after the soil has completely thawed after the winter cold, it is processed, that is, it is dug up or loosened with a pitchfork or cultivator to a depth of 20-25 cm. If the roses suffered from fungal or other diseases last season, the soil needs to be dug up and the layer turned over soil - this is how the remaining pests overwintering in the top layer of soil are destroyed. If the roses are not sick with anything, then it is preferable to simply deep loosening rather than digging, which inevitably damages the small roots of the plant.

After tilling the soil, its top layer is mulched with humus, compost or humus to replenish the loss of microelements that are inevitable when growing plants.

In early May, in calm, cloudy weather, roses are sprayed against leaf-eating caterpillars. In this case, you need to ensure that the poison does not get on fruit trees or bushes - if necessary, protect them with plastic wrap.

Climbing roses need proper pruning, the purpose of which is to form, obtain long and abundant flowering, and improve the health of the crown. Pruning also helps to ensure that the plant is completely covered with new growth.

Pruning is carried out after the plant has completely bloomed, that is, at the end of summer. First of all, diseased and damaged branches are cut out. Strong annual shoots are not removed. Old shoots are removed if new replacement shoots appear on the branch. That is, pruning is done in such a way that new, annual shoots replace old shoots. Biennial shoots are not pruned - it is on them that the bulk of the flowers will concentrate next summer.

Garter of climbing roses

It is necessary to start gartering the lashes of a climbing rose as early as possible so that the plant does not cause additional trouble and grows in the direction you need.

When forming a climbing rose, you should not strive for all the main branches to grow upward. It may happen that all the flowers and leaves are “relocated” to the upper part of the plant, and this will not add to its aesthetics. Therefore, to avoid such trouble, you need to try to direct the main branches horizontally. Then they will soon have vertical side shoots, growing upward. This principle of forming a climbing rose will perfectly camouflage a trellis or wall, and will also provide luxurious and long-lasting flowering.

If a rose bush is planted near a pole, then for proper formation it is enough to twist the lashes in a spiral.

Climbing roses: plant care in winter

In winter, any roses, including climbing ones, require shelter. At the same time, it is important to know that there should be air space between the shelter (film, roofing felt, spruce branches) and the plant. If possible, remove the lashes of roses from the support, remove rotten, diseased shoots, as well as all leaves. After this, the branches are wrapped with twine and secured to the ground with wooden or metal pins. The top of the lashes is covered with roofing felt, film, leaves or spruce branches. In much the same way, you can cover a climbing rose directly on a support, for example, if it entwines an arch. In this case, the support is first tied with burlap, roofing felt or film, and then covered with spruce branches.

Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, did not particularly worry about mulching. But today this agricultural technique has become fundamental in achieving High Quality berries and reducing crop losses. Some might say it's a hassle. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article we invite you to get acquainted with the nine the best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

Succulents are very diverse. Despite the fact that “little ones” have always been considered more fashionable, the range of succulents with which you can decorate modern interior, it’s worth taking a closer look. After all, colors, sizes, patterns, degree of prickliness, impact on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article we will tell you about the five most fashionable succulents that amazingly transform modern interiors.

The Egyptians used mint as early as 1.5 thousand years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils, which are highly volatile. Today, mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article we will look at the most interesting varieties mint, and also tell you about the features of growing this plant in open ground.

People began growing crocuses 500 years before our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the harbingers of spring next year. Crocuses are one of the earliest primroses, whose flowering begins as soon as the snow melts. However, flowering times may vary depending on the species and varieties. This article is dedicated to the earliest varieties of crocuses, which bloom in late March and early April.

Cabbage soup made from early young cabbage in beef broth is hearty, aromatic and easy to prepare. In this recipe you will learn how to cook delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup with this broth. Early cabbage cooks quickly, so it is placed in the pan at the same time as other vegetables, unlike autumn cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Real cabbage soup turns out tastier than freshly prepared cabbage soup.

Looking at the variety of tomato varieties, it’s hard not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. Even experienced gardeners are sometimes confused by it! However, understanding the basics of selecting varieties “for yourself” is not so difficult. The main thing is to delve into the peculiarities of the culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest groups of tomatoes to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been valued by those gardeners who do not have much energy and time to care for their beds.

Once very popular under the name of indoor nettle, and then forgotten by everyone, coleus today is one of the brightest garden and indoor plants. It is not for nothing that they are considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are primarily looking for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, coleus require constant monitoring. But if you take care of them, bushes made of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.

Salmon backbone baked in Provençal herbs provides tasty pieces of fish pulp for a light salad with fresh wild garlic leaves. The champignons are lightly fried in olive oil and then sprinkled with apple cider vinegar. These mushrooms are tastier than regular pickled ones, and they are better suited for baked fish. Wild garlic and fresh dill get along well in one salad, highlighting each other’s aroma. The garlicky pungency of wild garlic will permeate both the salmon flesh and mushroom pieces.

Conifer tree or shrubs on the site is always great, but a lot of conifers is even better. Emerald needles of various shades decorate the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils, released by plants, not only aromatize, but also make the air cleaner. As a rule, most zoned adults coniferous plants, are considered very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require proper care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics under the canopy of flowering trees have long become an integral attribute of welcoming spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. Financial and academic year here it starts on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese take place under the sign of their flowering. But sakura also grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

I am very interested in analyzing how people's tastes and preferences for certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and was an item of trade, lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for more than 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century B.C. e. About 6 varieties of quince were known, and even then methods of its propagation and cultivation were described.

Delight your family and prepare themed cottage cheese cookies in the shape of Easter eggs! Your children will be happy to take part in the process - sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration as pieces of dough turn into real Easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such original cookies for Easter, read our step by step recipe!

Among tuberous crops, there are not so many decorative deciduous favorites. And caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of interiors. Not everyone can decide to own a caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all, it requires care. But still, rumors about the extraordinary capriciousness of caladiums are never justified. Attention and care can avoid any difficulties when growing caladiums. And the plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply easy-to-prepare dish for you today. This sauce is one hundred percent universal, as it goes with every side dish: vegetables, pasta, or anything. Chicken and mushroom gravy will save you in moments when you don’t have time or don’t want to think too much about what to cook. Take your favorite side dish (you can do this in advance so that everything is hot), add some gravy and dinner is ready! A real lifesaver.

Among the many different varieties We will tell you about three of these most popular vegetables, which are distinguished by their excellent taste and relatively unpretentious growing conditions. Characteristics of the eggplant varieties “Almaz”, “Black Beauty” and “Valentina”. All eggplants have pulp medium density. In Almaz it is greenish, while in the other two it is yellowish-white. They are united by good germination and excellent yield, but in different time. Everyone's skin color and shape are different.

A climbing rose is a spectacular garden decoration that can disguise even the most unsightly area or high wall. But in order for it to play the role of an ornamental plant, it needs to bloom properly. And flowering directly depends on the conditions of maintenance and the characteristics of caring for the shrub. Let's find out how to properly plant a climbing rose in open ground in the spring, and how to care for it so that it takes root and grows healthy.

Climbing roses are usually planted in the fall. This time of year has a lot of advantages: it’s still warm outside, rooting occurs quickly, the pink shoots have already matured and are ready for winter, and next year the bush grows as intensively as everyone else. But autumn planting is rarely used in the north, where winter comes early, and there is almost no time left for the rose to take root. You also cannot delay planting if you have already prepared a seedling.

The peculiarities of planting a climbing rose in the spring are related to the fact that it needs time to take root and adapt to new conditions. All this inhibits the growth of the above-ground part. As a result, the bush lags behind other shrubs in development by about 2 weeks, and it may happen that by the onset of cold weather the stems do not have time to ripen (wooden). Then in winter they will die. To prevent this from happening, after spring planting Rose needs to be provided optimal conditions content and intensive care. Then it will not only quickly adapt, but will also catch up with the rest of the plants in development.

Best time to plant

The timing of planting climbing roses in the spring depends on the local climate and weather, which is impossible to predict. However experienced flower growers nevertheless, they determined the approximate time suitable for this:

In the south of the country, roses are planted in open ground with the onset of April. The deadline is early May.
In central Russia and the Moscow region, the climate is harsher, so it is better to plant bushes from late April to late May.
In the Urals and Siberia with a harsh continental climate, it is advisable to plant from late May to mid-June.

You cannot be guided only by these recommendations. Therefore, monitor the weather and soil conditions. It should have time to warm up to +8...+10 o C. Otherwise, the roses will take root and take root poorly. For planting, you should choose a cloudy and quiet day, when there is no bright sun, precipitation or strong wind.

Selecting a location and necessary conditions

We will tell you what requirements the area where you are going to plant a climbing rose must meet.

Lighting and location

For roses, lighting is very important. They love it when the sun shines on them around the clock. However, choosing a sunny location for a climbing shrub is very difficult: after all, it is usually planted near high fences and walls that cover the space on at least one side. Then you should be guided by the fact that the morning rays of the sun are most important for rose bushes. Therefore, select the area where sunlight will fall at least from the east, or better yet, from the southeast. Then your beauty will quickly begin to grow.

Important! In the first days after planting the rose in the ground, it will need to be shaded from the scorching rays of the sun. This will help avoid sunburn. When the bush takes root, there will be no need to shade the bush.

Temperature

Rose bush tolerates heat well Russian summer and even heat, provided frequent and abundant watering. But in winter it is not very comfortable: most varieties of roses belong to the 5th winter hardiness zone. This means that without shelter they can survive frosts only down to -25...-20 o C. Therefore, they need to be covered for the winter.

Attention! Some varieties may belong to the 4th or even 3rd winter hardiness zone. They can withstand up to -30...-35 o C and -35...-40 o C, respectively. In the first case, the rose will only need a light shelter, and in the second it may not be built at all (with the exception of the Urals and Siberia, where frosts often drop below mark at -40 o C).

Air and humidity

Roses need it in moderation wet air(40-70%), which is independently maintained in the summer. Not suitable for climbing shrubs corner location(planting near the corner of the wall), as it does not tolerate drafts. It is best to plant it at a distance of 0.6 m from the middle of a wall or other support in another area protected from draft winds.

Priming

Rose bushes are best suited to light, fertile loam with good drainage and a neutral reaction. They do not tolerate close groundwater: the roots do not need to reach them, and they can grow up to 2 meters deep. If the waters are located close to the surface, and the area itself is swampy, then when constructing a planting pit, it is necessary to provide for the construction of drainage. To prevent water from stagnating in the soil, it is better to plant the rose on a slightly inclined plane.

When choosing seedlings, pay attention to the following nuances:

The root system must be well developed, healthy and strong. Do not take seedlings if the roots have become limp; most likely, the bush was dug up a long time ago and it has become very weak.
The shoots must be healthy and strong. They should not have diseased or weak stems.
The color of the trunk should be green. If it is gray or brown, we pass by such a seedling.

Before planting, a climbing rose needs to be prepared in order to smooth out the stress it experiences and help it take root faster:

Soak its roots in water for one day. You can add a little potassium permanganate to make a light pink solution.
Then soak it for 3-4 hours (maximum 10-12 hours) in a solution of a growth stimulator (Zircon, Kornevin).
Remove the bush and prune it if necessary. It will be necessary to remove not only shoots up to 20-25 cm, but also damaged roots down to healthy tissue.
Before planting, cut areas should be treated with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol or another fungicide.

Important! Some nurseries sell seedlings not with an open root system, but with a clod of earth. They are usually packaged in biodegradable material. Such bushes can be planted directly in the package without pre-processing the roots. But this is provided that you plant immediately after purchase.

Planting process

To plant a climbing rose in the spring you will need the following tools, items and materials:

gloves (to keep your hands clean and protect them from being pierced by spikes);
shovel (for digging a planting hole);
drainage material (this can be expanded clay, crushed brick, crushed stone or other coarse stones), as well as sand;
superphosphate, potassium magnesium or potassium sulfate fertilizers (preferably granulated, as they will nourish the plant throughout the growing season);
peat and humus (for preparing a light, loose and nutritious soil mixture);
dolomite flour, wood ash or lime (to deoxidize the soil);
warm water (for irrigation) and a bucket for it;
shelter for shading roses.

After preparing the seedling for planting, prepare the planting hole:

Dig a hole about 0.6-0.7 m deep and wide. Optimal distance between holes – 1 m.
If you plant a bush in a swampy area, then the depth should be greater - about 0.8-0.9 m (for drainage construction). Place at the bottom of the hole thick layer(15-20 cm) crushed bricks or coarse crushed stone, and pour about 5 cm of coarse river sand on top.
Prepare a nutritious and loose mixture. To do this, mix peat and humus in equal proportions. If the soil is acidic, then it will be useful to additionally add about 1 kg of wood ash or 500-600 g of lime or dolomite flour. Mix everything thoroughly.
Fill the hole 30-40% with the nutrient mixture. Add granular fertilizer to it: 2-3 handfuls of superphosphate and 1 handful of potassium sulfate or potassium magnesia.

Plant the roses in the prepared hole:

Place the seedling in the hole and distribute its roots evenly throughout the entire volume.
Holding the bush with one hand, fill the empty space between the roots with the other with the nutrient mixture.
When the roots are covered, pour a bucket into the hole warm water. Pour carefully so as not to wash away the covered soil.
Fill the hole to the top with the nutrient mixture, the root collar should be buried about 10-12 cm.
Compact the soil in the hole and build a small earthen rampart around it. It will be needed so that when watering, water does not spill over the entire surface of the soil, but is absorbed directly in the root system zone.

Advice! After planting a climbing rose in open ground, shade it for 10-14 days if the sun is shining outside.

How to tie a climbing rose

The climbing rose needs the construction of a support. Often it is enough just to plant it near it, for example, near the following structures:

arch;
wall;
fence;
pergola or gazebo;
dry tree trunk.

But if the support does not have places to cling to, or there is none at all, then the rose needs to be tied up. To do this, use thick garden twine (be sure to carry out the procedure with gloves and an assistant):

Gather the vines into a compact bush.
Ask an assistant to hold the rose in this position.
Wrap the bush around the bush with garden twine and tie it, tying a strong knot.

Now the climbing rose is tied up, but it also needs support. If the wall, fence or arbor does not have a lattice surface or small ledges for the plant to cling to, construct rope or wire mesh. You can simply tie a strong rope to the top of the support, tie a peg to the lower end and stick it near the bush. 3-4 such rope supports are enough for the rose to crawl upward along them.

Another option for support is the construction of a wooden pyramid from thin but strong wooden blocks. In the pictures below, see how you can tie climbing roses to make them look beautiful.

After planting a climbing rose, it needs to be provided with intensive care so that it grows faster and its shoots have time to ripen by hibernation. Care includes:

Watering. Water the rose generously (10-20 liters of warm, settled water) as needed before frost sets in. In hot weather and drought, the frequency of watering should be 4-6 times a week, at other times - 2-3 times. Closer to frost, watering should be reduced to once a week.
Feeding. If you added ash and granular fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium to the planting hole, then 2 nitrogen fertilizations will be sufficient during the season. Young roses prefer organic matter. To do this, 2-3 weeks after planting the bush in the ground, feed it with mullein (1 part in 10 parts of water, infused for 7 days). You can also use an infusion of chicken manure (1 part to 20 parts water, infused for a week). This fertilizing needs to be repeated in mid-summer, but nitrogen cannot be added to the soil in the second half and autumn.
Loosening and/or mulching e. When a dense crust forms, it must be broken. But this must be done carefully so as not to damage the roots. Instead of loosening the soil, it can be covered with a layer of mulch - pieces of bark, sawdust, decorative stones.
Treatment for diseases. During the rainy season, spray the rose once a week with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol. The rest of the time, you can treat it once every 2 weeks with Fitosporin or Zircon to build immunity to fungal infections.
Pest treatment. If a bush is infested with aphids, treat it with a soap solution. If other pests appear, use insecticides (Aktaru, Actellik, Chlorofos or Karbofos). The second treatment should be carried out 1 week after the first.
Sanitary pruning. In the fall, when the first frosts arrive, the climbing rose needs to be pruned. For sanitary pruning, it is enough to remove all weak, thin, damaged and diseased shoots, as well as those that did not have time to ripen by winter. They cannot be left, as they will die in severe frosts. The same applies to flowers and leaves, if they themselves have not fallen.
Formative pruning. It can be carried out both in spring and autumn. The rules for the procedure depend on which pruning group your rose belongs to. If flowers form on this year's shoots, then the old shoots need to be shortened greatly. And if flowering occurs only on last year’s stems, then only the top of them needs to be cut off. With a mixed type, neither old nor young shoots can be severely pruned.
Shelter for the winter. If your rose variety is heat-loving (most likely it is), then it must be covered for the winter. There are two ways to do this. The first is to remove the canes from the support and cover them with spruce feet and a layer of waterproof material. The second is to build a frame around the rose and wrap it with roofing felt or other material. Then the void inside the frame is filled with dry leaves and covered with film on top. In any case, the trunk must be hilled up or covered with peat.

Climbing roses look very elegant. At proper care they can bloom throughout the summer, forming lush blankets of double and fragrant flowers. With them you can disguise all unsightly areas of the garden and outbuildings. They can become the main accent and create a romantic atmosphere. But for this you need to try and give the bush all your love and care.

climbing roses- these are types of rose hips and some varieties of garden roses with long branching shoots. All of them are representatives of the Rosehip genus and occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening gazebos, walls and buildings, perfectly combined with architectural forms of large and small sizes. Climbing roses are indispensable when creating decorative garden structures such as pyramids, columns, garlands, arbors and arches. They look great in compositions with other flowers and plants, so they are as popular as any bush or indoor rose.

Listen to the article

Planting and caring for climbing roses (in brief)

Landing: from the last ten days of September to mid-October or from mid-April to the end of May.
Bloom: from late spring to late autumn.
Lighting: bright light in the first half of the day, diffused light or partial shade in the second.
The soil: optimal - moisture-permeable fertile loam with deep groundwater.
Watering: once every 7-10 days, spending 1-2 buckets of water on each bush.
Feeding: bushes of the first year are fed only in August with potassium fertilizer, bushes of the second year are fed with full mineral and organic fertilizers alternately, making 5 feedings per season, and from the third year of life, roses are fed in the same regime, but exclusively with organic matter. During flowering, roses are not fertilized.
Garter: as a support you can use a fence, a house wall, a dry tree or special structures - gratings, arches and arcs made of metal rods. The shoots are tied to the support with twine.
Trimming: in spring and autumn.
Reproduction: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting.
Pests: aphids, spider mites, thrips, roseate sawflies, leaf rollers, cicadas.
Diseases: powdery mildew, bacterial cancer, koniothyrium, gray mold, black spot.

Read more about growing climbing roses below.

Climbing roses - description

Give general description climbing roses, the task is too difficult due to their huge diversity, so we suggest that you first familiarize yourself with the classification of climbing roses accepted in international floriculture practice.

The first group of climbing roses, the so-called climbing roses, or Rambler roses, are plants with long creeping or arched flexible bright green spiky stems up to five meters or more in length. The leaves of the Rambler climbing rose are leathery, shiny and small. The flowers are slightly fragrant, simple, semi-double or double, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, collected in inflorescences and located along the entire length of the shoot. The abundant flowering of climbing roses of this group lasts a little more than a month in the first half of summer. Most varieties are frost-resistant and overwinter well under light shelter. Plants of the Rambler group originated from species such as the Vihura rose and the multifloral rose (multiflora).

As a result of crossing a group of rambler roses with tea, hybrid tea, remontant roses and floribunda roses, a group of climbing roses with shoots up to four meters long was formed, which were called climbing roses - Climber, or climbing large-flowered roses - climbers. Roses of this group bloom profusely big flowers– from 4 cm in diameter or more – collected in small loose inflorescences, many varieties bloom twice per season. The shape of the flowers resembles hybrid tea roses. Plants of this group are relatively winter-hardy and are almost not affected by powdery mildew.

The third group, Climbing, was formed by mutating large-flowered bush roses - hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda. Climings differ from producing species only in stronger growth, later fruiting and even more large flowers- from four to eleven centimeters in diameter, which grow singly or in small inflorescences. Many climbing varieties bloom repeatedly. Roses of this group are grown only in the southern regions of the temperate zone with mild, warm winters.

Planting climbing roses

When and where to plant climbing roses

All types of roses are quite capricious - it’s not for nothing that the rose is called the queen of flowers. Climbing roses are no exception - planting and caring for climbing roses must be thought out to the smallest detail, and growing climbing roses should begin with choosing a site. These plants need bright light in the first half of the day so that the sun can dry the dew on the leaves and leave no chance for fungal diseases to settle on the roses, but the midday sun can already cause burns on the leaves and delicate petals of the plant, so in the afternoon the area with climbing roses must be protected from direct rays. In addition, the place where climbing roses grow must be protected from the cold north and northeast wind, and the location of a climbing rose on the corner of a building is undesirable due to drafts that depress the delicate plant. It is best to place climbing roses on the south side of the building, especially since they do not require much space - for planting roses, a strip of land fifty centimeters wide is enough, provided that the nearest wall, plant or any other object is no closer to the rose than half a meter to a meter.

The soil for climbing roses must be permeable, but where groundwater is too close to the surface, roses are planted on specially constructed elevations - the root system of climbing roses sometimes goes two meters deep. To avoid stagnation of water in the roots, roses are planted in an area located on a slope, at least minimally. Of all types of soil, loam is most suitable for climbing roses. Too light sandy or heavy clay soils will have to be adapted: sand is added to the clay for digging to the depth of a shovel bayonet, and sandy soil- clay, and in order for the soil to become fertile, it is necessary to add humus or humus to them along with bone meal as a phosphorus fertilizer. It is necessary to prepare the area for the rose in advance - preferably six months or at least a month or two before planting.

As for the timing of planting, in conditions temperate climate It is best to plant roses from the last ten days of September to mid-October. You can plant roses in the spring - from mid-April to the end of May.

Planting a climbing rose in autumn

Before moving on to describing the landing process, it makes sense to talk about what planting material prefer. Both seedlings of self-rooted roses and seedlings of roses grafted onto rose hips are available for sale. What's the difference between them? Grafted roses differ from self-rooted roses in that their root represents one plant, and the shoots represent another, that is, the scion of a varietal climbing rose is grafted onto the root of a rose hip. Therefore, planting and caring for a grafted rose, although slightly, differ from planting and caring for a rooted rose. For example, the planting depth of a grafted rose should be such that the grafting site is 10 cm below the surface level. A grafted rose planted in this way begins to form roots from the cultivated part of the bush, and the rosehip roots, losing their purpose, gradually die off. If the grafting site is left above the surface, the plant will become depleted and eventually die, since the cultivated part of the seedling is evergreen, and rosehip is a deciduous plant, and this discrepancy between the scion and rootstock will lead to a sad end if planted incorrectly.

Seedlings of climbing roses with an open root system should be soaked in water for a day before planting. Then you need to remove leaves from the shoots, trim immature and broken shoots with pruning shears, dusting the cuts with crushed coal, shorten both the roots and the above-ground part to 30 cm, remove the buds from the grafted seedlings located below the grafting site so that rose hips do not develop from them. After this, the seedlings are disinfected by immersing them in a three percent solution. copper sulfate.

Planting holes for climbing roses are dug 50x50 in size, keeping a distance of at least a meter between them. The top, fertile layer of soil, removed from each hole, is mixed with half a bucket of manure and part of this mixture is poured into the holes, then the holes are well watered. This should be done a day or two before planting. On the day of planting, prepare a mixture for pre-planting treatment of rose roots. To do this, dissolve three tablets of phosphorobacterin and one tablet of heteroauxin in half a liter of water and pour this solution into nine and a half liters of clay mash. Dip the roots of the seedling into the mash before lowering them into the hole. Place a mound of soil and manure mixture at the bottom of the hole, place a seedling on it, the roots of which have been treated with mash, carefully straighten the roots, cover them with the same mixture of soil and manure and compact the surface thoroughly. And remember: the grafting site of a rose grafted onto a rose hip should be at a depth of about ten centimeters underground, and the root collar own root rose- no less than five centimeters. After planting, the rose is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, soil is added to the tree trunk circle and the seedling is hilled to a height of at least 20 cm.

Planting a climbing rose in spring

Climbing roses planted in the spring lag behind in development by two weeks compared to roses planted in the fall and require more attention. Before planting, the shoots of seedlings are shortened to 15-20 cm, and the roots to 30 cm. After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, hilled high and covered with film to create greenhouse conditions that contribute to faster survival of the seedlings. The film must be lifted every day for a few minutes to ventilate the seedlings. It is advisable to gradually increase the ventilation time, since at the same time the seedlings are hardening. When the threat of return frosts has passed, the film is removed and the area is mulched. If you planted roses after frost in dry, warm weather, after planting, mulch the tree trunks with peat or any other suitable material.

Caring for climbing roses in the garden

How to care for a climbing rose

Caring for climbing roses involves regularly watering the plant, fertilizing, pruning, fighting possible diseases or pests, and preparing for winter. Due to their structure, climbing roses need support. Climbing roses are quite drought-resistant, and large quantities they do not need water - they are moistened once a week or a decade according to the principle “less is better, but more often,” that is, 1-2 buckets of water are spent on each bush. To prevent water from spreading, make a low earthen rampart around the tree trunk circle. Two to three days after watering, in order to retain moisture in the soil and provide air access to the roots, loosen the soil around the bush to a depth of 5-6 cm. To reduce the labor intensity of caring for roses, mulch the soil around the tree trunk with peat, then water and loosen you will have to soil much less frequently.

Young bushes are not fed until August, since the soil contains nutrients not yet used up, closer to autumn, a solution of potassium salts is added to the soil to prepare the roses for wintering. It is best to use an infusion of wood ash for these purposes. When feeding bushes in the second year of life, organic fertilizers are alternated with mineral ones, and from the third year they switch exclusively to organic fertilizers, which can be used as a solution of one liter of manure and a glass of wood ash in a bucket of water. Manure can be replaced with any other organic fertilizer. During the growing season it is necessary to apply at least five fertilizing applications. Fertilizers are not applied during flowering.

Support for climbing roses

The variety of supports for climbing roses is amazing: you can use an old dry tree, a lattice or arch made of metal, wood or polymers, as well as metal rods bent in an arc as a support. However, no other plant will decorate a faceless wall or an unattractive building like climbing roses, planted no closer than half a meter from the wall. Place a lattice or vertical guides on the wall to which you will tie growing and flowering shoots, and an unremarkable structure will be transformed. However, you should know that on horizontally located vines flowers appear along their entire length, and on vertically mounted ones - only in their upper part.

Plastic twine is used as fastening material, and in no case do they resort to wire, coming up with all sorts of tricks, for example, wrapping the wire in paper or fabric. The stems are firmly attached to the support, taking care, however, that the twine does not injure the stem. Inspect the supports regularly, as they sometimes break under the weight of branches or the wind, and this can cause severe damage to the plant. You need to dig in the supporting structure no closer than 30-50 cm from the bush.

Transplanting climbing roses

An adult plant is usually replanted only for the sake of saving it, if time has shown that the place for the rose was chosen poorly. Climbing roses are replanted in the fall - in September or early October, no later, so that the plant has time to take root in its new location before winter. Sometimes transplantation is carried out in the spring, before the kidneys awaken. Before transplanting, roses are removed from their support, all young shoots are kept from the ramblers, but their tops are pinched at the end of August to speed up the lignification of the shoots, and shoots older than two years are removed. For climbers and climbers, all long shoots are shortened by half. Then the bushes are carefully dug in a circle, stepping back from the center at a distance equal to two bayonets of a shovel. You need to dig deep, trying to keep everything intact. root system. Having dug up the plant, shake off the soil from its roots, cut off the torn and shaggy ends of the roots with pruning shears and transplant the plant into a pre-prepared hole, straightening the roots when planting so that they do not bend. After you fill the hole soil mixture, compact the surface and pour plenty of water. After a few days, when the soil settles, add more soil mixture to level the surface of the area, and do not forget to hill the plant high.

Pests and diseases of climbing roses

Among insects, climbing roses are bothered by aphids and spider mites. If the rose is not completely infested with aphids, try to control the pests with folk remedies without resorting to chemicals. You can remove aphids mechanically: hold a bud, leaf or stem with your gloved hands and remove the aphids. This method is good if the aphids have just appeared, but if they have already taken root on your rose and have begun to breed, grate the soap, fill it with water, let the solution brew and, when the soap dissolves, strain the solution and spray the roses with it. If this measure does not produce results, buy an insecticide against aphids in the store, which is marked “for roses and grapes,” and treat the rose with it, choosing a quiet, windless evening for this. As for spider mites, they appear on plants only during the dry, hot period if you chronically forget to water them. Ticks settle on the underside of leaves, feed on their sap, entangling the leaves with cobwebs. The leaves of the affected plant acquire a silvery tint. In the fight against spider mite these have proven themselves well folk remedies, like infusions of yarrow, wormwood, tobacco or shag, after treatment with which 80 to 100% of insects die on the third day. An infusion of wormwood is made as follows: half a kilogram of fresh wormwood is placed in a wooden vessel, poured with ten liters of cold water and left for two weeks to ferment, then the starter is filtered, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and the rose and the soil around it are treated with the composition. If the situation requires urgent measures, treating the plant with Fitoverm will help, which can be repeated after two weeks if necessary. The method of use and dosage are indicated in the instructions for use of the drug.

Roses also have other pests - rose sawfly, cicada, leaf roller, thrips, but if you follow the conditions of the plant's agricultural practices, they will not become a problem for you. As a preventive measure, you can plant marigolds around the rose - this proximity will save the rose from many troubles. In addition, develop the habit of carrying out preventive spraying of roses with Bordeaux mixture in spring and autumn.

The most dangerous diseases for roses are koniothyrium, bacterial canker, powdery mildew, gray rot and black spot.

Bacterial cancer manifests itself as lumpy soft growths of varying sizes, which over time harden and darken from decomposition. The rose dries up and dies. There is no cure for bacterial cancer. Carefully inspect the planting material before purchasing, and before planting, disinfect the roots of the seedlings for two to three minutes in a three percent solution of copper sulfate. If you find signs of disease on an adult bush, immediately remove suspicious parts of the plant and treat the wounds with a solution of copper sulfate of the same consistency.

Koniothirium – a fungal disease, the so-called bark cancer or burn. It is discovered in the spring, when the cover is removed from the roses: red-brown spots appear on the bark, gradually turning black and turning into rings around the shoot. Such shoots should be immediately cut off, capturing part of the healthy tissue, and burned to avoid infecting other plants. To avoid disease, you should stop adding nitrogen before wintering, replacing it with potassium fertilizers, which strengthen plant tissue. In addition, during thaws, you need to ventilate roses under cover.

Powdery mildew looks like a whitish coating on the above-ground parts of the plant, which over time acquires a brown tint. Contributes to the appearance of the disease high humidity air and sudden temperature fluctuations, excess nitrogen in the soil and improper watering. All affected parts of the plant are cut out and burned, after which the rose is treated with a three percent solution of iron or a two percent solution of copper sulfate.

Black spot manifested by the appearance on the leaves of dark red-brown spots with a yellow rim, which merge with the development of the disease, causing premature falling of the leaves. Autumn feeding of roses with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers at the root, as well as three-stage treatment of the bush and the ground around it with a three percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or iron sulfate at weekly intervals, can prevent the disease.

Gray rot destroys stems, shoots, buds and leaves of climbing roses, sharply reduces their decorative value, reducing the intensity of flowering. If the disease has taken hold, the plant will have to be dug up and destroyed, but if you find it at the very beginning, you can destroy the fungal infection by treating the bush with a solution of 100 g of Bordeaux mixture in a bucket of water. If it is not possible to defeat the disease in one go, the treatment can be repeated three more times at weekly intervals.

Sometimes, with absolute and obvious health, a climbing rose does not bloom, and you study rose diseases and their symptoms with bewilderment, but cannot understand what the reason is. Sometimes the fact is that you bought an unsuccessful variety - one that blooms poorly, and besides, the location or composition of the soil turned out to be not what the rose requires. Or maybe it’s because last year’s shoots didn’t survive the winter well. Analyze all the information about climbing roses, and you will definitely find the reason.

Pruning climbing roses

When to prune climbing roses

Pruning climbing roses is necessary to form a crown, stimulate abundant flowering throughout the entire height of the bush and to support the decorativeness of the plant decorating a particular object. Proper pruning can provide practically continuous flowering roses throughout the growing season. Special attention should be given to vegetative shoots, since the flowering of the bush mainly occurs on the shoots of last year. Pruning is carried out in spring and autumn. At the beginning of the growing season, dead shoots and frostbitten areas are removed from climbing roses of any group, and the ends of the shoots are cut to a strong outer bud. Subsequent pruning depends on how many times your rose blooms during the growing season - once or more.

How to prune climbing roses

Roses that bloom once per season form flowers on the shoots of the previous year. Instead of faded (basal) shoots, from three to ten restoration shoots are formed, which will bloom next year, so the basal shoots after flowering must be cut out at the root, and it is better to do this in the fall, when preparing the plant for winter. In repeat-blooming roses, within three years, flowering branches of different orders are formed on the main shoots - from two to five. The flowering of these shoots weakens by the fifth year, so the main shoots in early spring should be cut to the ground after the fourth year of life. Reblooming bushes should have one to three annual restoration shoots and three to seven main flowering shoots. However most of Climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, from which only the tops with underdeveloped buds are removed in the spring.

Particular attention should be paid to young grafted roses planted this or last year: until the cultivated scion acquires its own root system, the roots of the rosehip rootstock will produce abundant growth, which must be removed immediately. In a year or two, when the rosehip root dies, the shoots will begin to produce scion roots.

Propagation of climbing roses

How to propagate climbing roses

Climbing roses are propagated by seeds, as well as by layering, cuttings and grafting. The easiest way to propagate a rose is by layering, and propagation by cuttings gives good results. Concerning seed propagation, then it is better to buy seed for this purpose in a store, since seeds collected from roses growing in the garden do not retain the varietal characteristics of the parent plant, so it is not known what kind of rose will grow from them. However, it's worth a try for the sake of experimentation: after all, what are you risking?

Growing climbing roses from seeds

Buy in a store or collect seeds of roses growing in your garden, place them in a sieve and dip them in a bowl with hydrogen peroxide for half an hour - this measure helps disinfect the seeds and prevents the appearance of mold during subsequent stratification seed material. Then spread the seeds on cotton pads soaked in hydrogen peroxide and cover the top with the same peroxide-soaked discs, place these “sandwiches” in individual plastic bags, write the date and name of the variety on them, put them in a container and put them in the vegetable section of the refrigerator. Check the condition of the seeds from time to time, and if you notice mold, soak them in peroxide again, replace the disks with new ones soaked in the same composition, and put them in the refrigerator again. After one and a half to two months, transfer the sprouted seeds to individual peat tablets or pots, mulching the surface with a thin layer of perlite to avoid infection with blackleg. Seedlings will need ten hours of daylight and watering as the soil dries out. With normal development of seedlings, the first buds will appear within two months after planting the seeds in pots, and after another month and a half, the first flowers will open. Continue caring for the seedlings, feed them with a weak solution of complex fertilizer, and in the spring plant them in open ground and care for them as if they were an adult plant.

You can rightfully call it the queen of the garden, and with proper care and planting, it will become the subject of your pride and the envy of your neighbors.

Let's talk about how to properly care for such a beauty so that she will delight you all season long.

Brief description and popular varieties

Climbing roses are ideal for arches or wall decoration in a private home. These are tall, climbing and tenacious plants that definitely need a warm and mild climate and obligatory shelter for the winter. According to the international classification, there are 3 characteristics of roses:

semi-climbing roses, growing from 1.5 to 3 m in height;
climbing- reach a height of 5 m;
curly- reach 15 meters.

There are 8 types of climbing roses, differing in description and appearance:

1. Climber- resembles a tall, erect one. The flowers are large in size and have a strong aroma. Great decoration flat wall, or mesh. Common varieties:

PinkCloud
Paul Scarlet
Roseanne

2. Rambler It is distinguished by its flexibility and easy bending of shoots. Densely decorated with small weak-scented flowers that grow only on the shoots of the second year:

Ghistiane de Felidonde
Bobby James
Paul Noel

3. Claiming- a non-frost-resistant variety that may not overwinter even under cover. The inflorescences are small and sparse, but the diameter of the flowers can be from 5 to 11 cm, and the plant also has a strong aroma.

Orange Triumph
Cecilia Brunner
City of York

4. Climbing rose Cordesa(Hybrid Kordesii) is unpretentious and winter-hardy, blooms from early summer to late October. Features an ideal flower shape and long flowering. Can winter without shelter:

Hamburger Phoenix
Flammentanz

5. Lambert- profusely flowering shrub with dark foliage, resistant to diseases:

Munich

6. - a shrub, the height of which can reach 3 m, abundantly strewn with white or light pink simple flowers 1.5-2 cm in diameter with a faint aroma:

Snow White
General Tetar
Grousse en Zabern
Melita
Mosel

7. - creeping and tenacious shrub, native to Japan and China, reaches a height of 6 m, has large curved thorns:

Excelsa
Red poppy
Alberic Barbier
Glen Dale
Aelita

8. - from 5 to 12 m tall, small flowers - 1-3 cm. Characterized by early flowering, from April to early July. There are such varieties of Banks rose:

Alba Plena
Banksia hybrida
Lutea Plena

Did you know?In Germany, near the walls of Hildesheim Castle, grows the oldest rose bush in the world, which is already about 1000 years old.

Growing conditions

Boarding time

The best time for planting will be the warm days of May, when the earth has warmed up and stable warm weather has established itself. Then you will know exactly what will take root and be ready for the winter. You can plant it in the fall, but it is better to do this in September so that the rose has time to take root before the first frost.

How to plant a climbing rose

Selection and preparation of seedlings

The day before the expected date, the seedlings are soaked in water. It is advisable to dip not only the root system, but the entire seedling. Before planting, we cut off the long tufted shoots of the root system, leaving 15-20 cm on each side. You can disinfect the plant by dipping it in a solution of 3% copper sulfate. We lubricate the cut areas on the shoots with garden varnish, and on the roots - to avoid infection by fungus or infection. These simple procedures will contribute to rapid and proper growth and development.

Pit preparation

Important!The climbing rose is not a plant that will appreciate over-watering. This increases the air humidity around the bush too much, contributing to the appearance and development of fungal diseases.

Fertilizer

Fertilize with complex fertilizer. Repeat feeding every 2-3 weeks. The second feeding can be done with a mixture of ash and ash, diluted with water, for root feeding, as this will contribute to bright and abundant flowering. All fertilizing should be carried out during the growing season and before flowering.

From mid-summer, roses stop fertilizing and switch to potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. This is necessary to gradually prepare the plant for dormancy and wintering.

Trimming

It is one of the most important and responsible procedures for its care, since the quality of flowering and the formation of new strong shoots directly depends on it.

Every spring, regardless of the type of roses, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing damaged and unhealthy shoots. Further pruning directly depends on whether your shrub is a once-blooming or repeat-blooming one.
In a climbing rose, which blooms once per season, buds appear both on the current year's shoots and on last year's shoots. On old shoots, replacement shoots appear throughout the summer, which will take over the bulk of the flowering next year. Therefore, they leave 3-5 of the strongest two-year shoots, and the same number of one-year ones.

If the rose is re-blooming, then the buds appear on all shoots up to 4 years old, and only weaken in the 5th year. Therefore, the main shoots in this case are removed in the 4th year of growth, leaving space for new ones.

Treatment against pests and diseases

The most dangerous and common diseases of climbing roses are:

1. Its appearance provokes high humidity air in the heat and excessive watering. Characterized by white spots on the trunk and leaves. All affected parts are cut out and burned, treating the plant or copper sulfate.

2. . Appears as brown or brown spots on leaves and stems. The affected areas are cut out, taking a little of the unaffected areas nearby, and burned. The plant is treated with Bordeaux mixture.

3. . This is the name for small brown spots that grow over time and affect the entire plant. There are currently no drugs on the market that can combat this disease, so prevention is important. Before purchasing, carefully inspect the plant for stains. Before planting, dip in a solution of copper sulfate. And if the disease has already been identified, then immediately cut out and burn all affected areas.
The most common lovers of roses are: