Reinforcing brick belt. How to properly make an armored belt for a roof? When building a house from brick, an armored belt is made

The installation of an armored belt increases the strength of load-bearing walls and the resistance of the entire structure to various loads: uneven shrinkage of soils and objects, exposure to wind, seismic vibrations and temperature changes.

Armored belt device photo

Formwork for armored belt. Types and methods of device

Armopoyas is a monolithic reinforced concrete structure. The belt has a circular outline, fits on the walls, and has no breaks (gaps) in its body. The solution to the question: how to properly make an armored belt begins with the installation of formwork. The most accessible formwork material is board. The formwork for the armored belt is made either from individual boards or from ready-made wooden shields, connected to each other from the outside with wooden scraps. The bottom of the boards is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. At the top, the opposite walls of the formwork are connected wooden ties(on nails). The spacing of the ties is 80 cm, but not more than 100 cm.

Do-it-yourself armored belt

When making an armored belt with your own hands, you can use another option for creating it, in which the formwork is not wooden structures, and the U-shaped blocks are made of aerated concrete. Trough blocks are laid the same width as the wall, and have a cavity inside for laying connected reinforcement frame and concrete. It is especially advantageous to install a belt with such “formwork” along external walls, because the side walls of U-shaped blocks act as insulation and eliminate the formation of cold “bridges”. The disadvantage of tray blocks is their high price.

How to make an armored belt with high quality

Geometric and specifications monolithic structure are determined by calculation. Usually the width of the belt is equal to the width of the wall, 30-50cm. Since the support of the prefabricated or monolithic ceiling on the walls is only 120cm (in practice - 150-200cm), then based on this, the width of the belt can be taken smaller. The recommended height of the armored belt is 30cm.

In cottages where it is planned to create light floors, it is allowed to install a flat frame in the belt. The ladder frame is prepared directly on the wall, directly in the formwork. It consists of 2 rods (for wide wall 3 rods) of a periodic profile (calculated diameter), connected to each other by transverse rods. The spacing of the rods is 50 cm. The reinforced belt under the floor slabs carries higher loads. Therefore, the frame is made three-dimensional from 4 or 6 longitudinal reinforcing bars and tied with transverse wire clamps.

Armopoyas for aerated concrete

The frame on all sides must have protective layer made of concrete 4-5 cm. From below it is laid on supports made of brick or concrete chips. It should be noted that an armored belt is installed on aerated concrete not only on external walls, but also on load-bearing ones internal walls. And if along the length of the wall transverse rods and clamps can be connected with knitting wire, then at the corners of the structure and in places where the frame branches into internal load-bearing walls, the connection of longitudinal reinforcement and transverse elements is performed by welding. The level of the frame is set strictly horizontally.

Armobelt under the Mauerlat

When installing truss structure roof, its bottom row is the Mauerlat, attached to load-bearing wall special anchors and studs. The rafter system itself creates a bursting load, which can lead to deformation of the walls. Armored belt under the roof ensures wall strength and stable rigidity roofing system. It will be executed similarly to the device procedure monolithic belt under the ceiling. The armored belt under the Mauerlat serves both to distribute the load over the entire surface of the wall and to insert fasteners for the Mauerlat itself.

How to fill an armored belt

Problem: how to fill the armored belt is solved at the final stage of constructing a monolithic structure. For pouring, you can use ready-made commercial concrete mix M200 (B15). Another option is to produce concrete using construction site. M400 cement, sand and crushed stone are taken in a ratio of 1:3:5. All components are loaded into a concrete mixer, water is added to the desired consistency and mixed. It is important that concrete is poured into the formwork continuously and not in parts. To remove air bubbles from the mixture, after pouring the concrete mixture should be vibrated or the concrete should be intensively pierced along the entire length of the belt with a piece of reinforcement.

Reinforced belt for aerated concrete made of bricks

In practice, as an option to strengthen wall structures, sometimes they make an armored belt for aerated concrete made of bricks. It is a conventional solid brick masonry reinforced with reinforcement. Reinforcement is carried out with masonry mesh made of wire: 4-5 mm through each row of masonry in height. The solution is cement-sand in a ratio of 1:4. The height of the brick belt is taken from 20 cm to 40 cm. The width of the belt can correspond to the width of the wall, but perhaps narrower. Of course, an armored belt made of brick cannot be called equivalent in strength characteristics to a reinforced concrete belt. However, it is reliable when building houses in areas with low seismic activity or for the construction of auxiliary facilities and outbuildings.

Insulation of armored belt

To reinforced belt did not become a “bridge” of cold and in order to avoid the formation of condensation on it, it is necessary to insulate the armored belt. Therefore, a monolithic or brick belt, most often, is not made to cover the entire width of the wall, but with an indentation from its outer edge. It is important to maintain a minimum width of the reinforced belt, equal to 20 cm for concrete and 25 cm for brick. The resulting longitudinal niches are filled heat-insulating material, which are the septal aerated concrete blocks, laid on spoons (10cm), polystyrene foam boards and other materials.

A reinforced monolithic or brick belt provides building construction houses made of aerated concrete blocks with increased strength. And for all household members, it becomes a guarantor of a safe, long and happy stay in a new home.

Without exception, any structure made of any block materials will be constantly exposed to natural phenomena– swelling of the soil, settlement of the building, other ground movement. In addition, increased winds and rain can also affect the integrity of the entire building. It is to eliminate various movements of the building that a concrete reinforced belt is installed over the walls. We’ll talk about how to make an armored belt with your own hands in this article.

Armored belt device

A reinforcing belt, or as it is sometimes called a seismic belt, makes it possible improve strength throughout the house, and also allows prevent cracking of walls as a result of soil movement with the foundation and under the influence of atmospheric phenomena. In addition, if you make an armored belt correctly, it Allows for even distribution of loads from the roof or concrete floors located above it.

Please pay attention! Even if the floors in the house are made of wood, the need to make an armored belt does not disappear. The type of overlap does not determine whether to make an armored belt or not. In any case, the belt should close all the walls.

Everything is clear about the purpose of the armored belt. Now a few words about its design. An ordinary reinforced belt has two standard elements - a rigid volumetric frame made of reinforcement, as well as the concrete in which it is located. In general, everything is quite simple, but making an armored belt with your own hands without studying your features will probably be difficult.

How to make an armored belt - sequence

In order to determine the complexity of the work, as well as for a more detailed analysis of how a reinforced belt is made, we will break down the manufacturing technology into several stages. We can say that we will provide specific instructions for making an armored belt.

Metal frame made of reinforcement

It is necessary to begin assembling the frame by installing pieces of reinforcement at the top of the wall. To do this, you either need to simply drive in pieces, if the density of the material allows it, or drill holes and insert pieces into them. The reinforcement is installed at the intersection points of the walls and along the entire perimeter of the structure every 1-1.5 meters. The segments are installed in squares of four pieces; they will determine the dimensions of the entire frame. After this, you need to secure the lower longitudinal row of reinforcement at a height of 3-4 cm from the top edge of the wall. To do this, longitudinal rods are tied to vertically mounted pins using knitting wire. In this way, two parallel rods are secured.

After the longitudinal reinforcement is installed, it must be connected with short jumpers every 2.5-3 cm. For jumpers, you need to use pieces of reinforcement.

Vertical sections are also installed in a similar way. The upper longitudinal row of reinforcement will later be attached to them. The top row will be attached in the same way and with the same pitch as the horizontal one. The length of the segments will depend on the total thickness of the armored belt. The recommended thickness of the armored belt is 200 – 250 mm. From these dimensions it is necessary to determine the length of the vertical segments. Longitudinal reinforcement bars are again attached to the vertical sections, which are then secured with transverse sections. In general, everything is exactly the same as with the lower level of the longitudinal rods.

Formwork

At this stage, you can proceed in two ways: either install permanent formwork, or make a collapsible one from boards. The most the best option will collapsible design. It is assembled from almost any boards or sheet materials. During the construction of the formwork, it is necessary to monitor its upper edge - the difference should not be more than 1 cm.

The ideal option would be combined system, in which on one side it will be non-removable, and on the other, after the poured solution has hardened, it will be removed. If the facade will be finished with some kind of material or insulated, then permanent polystyrene formwork can be installed on the front side, which will later become one of the elements of the insulating layer. By inside can be set regular board or OSB, which can be fixed with improvised hardware and fasteners. The same cannot be said about working with foam concrete, which has its own.

The most difficult moment here will be connecting the two parts of the armored belt formwork. Here you need to approach it with all responsibility and think about how to connect two opposite parts in such a way that the poured concrete does not crush them on the sides. To do this, you need to secure wooden spacers along the upper edge of the formwork in increments of 30–40 cm, and you can also tighten it with wire. To fasten with wire, you need to drill holes in the boards and thread the wire through, which will tighten the two parts of the structure. After the solution hardens, simply bite off this wire with side cutters and it will remain inside the armored belt. After screeding, you can proceed to the next stage of construction of the reinforcing belt.

Pouring concrete

Everything here is not difficult enough, except for lifting the concrete inside the formwork from above the wall. But this issue can be easily sorted out when ordering. Companies providing concrete delivery services have the opportunity to order a concrete pump, which pumps the solution to any point of the reinforced belt being poured.

Let's also say a few words about quality concrete mixture and about the method of preparing it if you cook it yourself. When ordering, the brand must be at least B15. But if you cook on your own, the composition will be as follows: one bucket of cement and two buckets of crushed stone and sand. It is best to prepare the concrete mixture thicker, because... it will not crush the formwork too much. However, such a solution has its own nuance - the mixture in the formwork must be carefully compacted and compacted. Ideally, a deep vibrator is used for this, but it is not often found in domestic construction. For compaction, you can use either a piece of reinforcement or a piece of wooden block, which carefully compacts the entire solution in the formwork.

Completion

The final stage of making an armored belt with your own hands is to control the hardening of the concrete. Immediately after pouring the concrete mixture, it is best to cover it with cellophane film. This is necessary to reduce moisture loss and the appearance of cracks in the armored belt. After a few days, when the initial strength has been gained, the formwork can be removed (removable). By the way, we advise you to read the article ““.

That's basically all. Let us clarify only one detail, which concerns the waterproofing of the armored belt. Usually a mauerlat is laid on the armored belt for further installation of the roof. To do this, you need to lay roofing felt or other modern material on the concrete surface. bitumen material for waterproofing. In this way, you can protect the base of your roof from incoming moisture from the walls.

Armopoyas, also known as reinforcement belt, reinforcing iron concrete belt, reinforced unloading belt, as well as a seismic belt - this is a solid reinforced concrete structure around the house, following the contour of its walls.

It consists of a frame made of reinforcement and wire. The frame is immersed in a mixture of sand, cement and crushed stone. This mixture is called reinforced concrete.

Armopoyas is the same foundation, but it is located between the floors of the building. A correctly poured belt serves to give the walls strength by redistributing the load from all elements of the building.

with a shallow foundation;
when constructing a building on the slope of a mountain or hill;
if there are rivers or ravines nearby;
if the soil under the building is subsiding;
in a zone of seismic activity.

Most often, the armored belt is poured when the last row of building stone is laid on the wall. It can be a gas block, foam block, cinder block or other fragile material. The reinforcing belt increases the resistance of the building to wind force, the shrinkage process of the house, and seasonal temperature fluctuations.

If it is not necessary to construct an armored belt for walls made of cinder blocks, then a structure made of foam blocks and gas blocks must have an armored belt. It is impossible to attach a beam on which the installations will be installed to a wall made of gas silicate stone. rafter legs. Only a reinforced belt will help.

For two-story house you will have to fill 2 similar belts. The first armored belt is poured after finishing the laying of the walls of the 1st floor. Slabs will be laid on it later ceiling. After completing the laying of the 2nd floor, the next armored belt is performed. The supports for the rafter structure will be attached to it.

Formwork for armored belt

The height of the reinforced belt is usually 30 cm. Sometimes it can be a little less or more. Its width is equal to the thickness of the wall. For the construction of formwork, boards with a thickness of 20 mm or more are used. The bottom edge of the board is attached to the outside and inside of the wall with self-tapping screws. The upper ones are connected by scraps of boards. You should get a kind of trough 30 cm high. In several places, the formwork walls can be fastened together with binding wire. You can make fastening jumpers every m. They will prevent the boards from bending under the weight of concrete.

Return to contents

Creating a Reinforcement Frame

The frame is assembled from horizontally laid reinforcement rods with a diameter of 8-12 mm. They must be ribbed. The concrete mass clings more tightly to such rods. They are laid out in 2 threads. Transverse bars in the form of a ladder are placed on top of the longitudinal rods in steps of 70 cm. The frame is welded or tied with knitting wire. In the corners of the building, the reinforcement can be additionally strengthened with corners welded to it.

The frame elements should go deep into the concrete by about 5 cm, so fragments of brick are placed under the reinforcement from below to raise it. If the load is expected to be quite high, not a ladder is used for reinforcement, but volumetric design of 4 longitudinal reinforcing bars, which are connected in the form of a parallelepiped. At the ends and in the middle they are connected by welding. It is correct to tie the remaining connection points with wire, since welding weakens the structure of the metal.

Return to contents

Pouring formwork

It is recommended that before pouring the upper armored belt, lay pieces of wire into the formwork every 80-100 cm. They will later be attached to the belt with it. wooden beams, on which the rafter legs are installed. For filling use ordinary construction concrete from a mixture of sand, cement and crushed stone. The proportions are approximately as follows: 1 part cement, 3 parts sand, 4-5 parts crushed stone. It is recommended to fill the entire formwork in 1 cycle. The solution must be periodically compacted by piercing it with a piece of reinforcement to release air.

In the hottest part of the day, you need to water the structure generously and cover it plastic film. This is done so that the concrete does not crack during intensive drying, and the moisture does not evaporate too quickly. This way the concrete will quickly gain strength. After 4-5 days you can carefully dismantle the formwork. But it will take 2-3 weeks for the concrete to fully mature. It is recommended to make a kind of hedgehog from nails hammered into blocks or pieces of wire to better connect the concrete to the wall.

Any developer, planning to build a house from aerated concrete, is faced with the need to manufacture an armored belt (it is also called a seismic belt). The armored belt on aerated concrete is a monolithic reinforced concrete strip poured along the entire perimeter of the walls (between the first and second floors, etc.). This element is necessary to evenly distribute the load and connect the walls together. This reduces the risk of cracks due to uneven shrinkage of the building. The armored belt is also placed under the Mauerlat when installing the roof.

Maxim Pan User FORUMHOUSE, Moscow.

You cannot attach timber (mauerlat) directly to aerated concrete using studs. If this is done, then over time, under the influence of wind load, the fastenings will become loose. When installing attic floor armored belt on aerated concrete with wooden floor will redistribute the point load from the beam to the entire wall.

An illustrative example is a forum member with the nickname mad-max which comprehensively answers the question, when you need an armored belt in a house made of aerated concrete . He did not have time to fill the armored belt under the Mauerlat, and the house went into “winter.” Already during the cold weather, the arched openings under the windows in the house cracked exactly in the middle. At first the cracks were small - about 1-2 mm, but gradually they began to increase and for the most part opened up to 4-5 mm. As a result, after the winter, the forum member poured a 40x25 cm belt, into which he installed anchors under the Mauerlat before pouring the concrete solution. This solved the problem with increasing cracks.

mad-max User FORUMHOUSE

I would like to add to this that the foundation for my house is strip-monolithic, the soil is rocky, there was no movement of the foundation before I started building the house. I believe that the reason for the appearance of cracks was the lack of an armored belt under the Mauerlat.

An aerated concrete house, and especially a two-story house, needs an armored belt. When making it, you should remember this rule:

The main condition for the correct “operation” of the armored belt is its continuity, continuity and looping along the entire perimeter of the walls.

There are several options for constructing an armored belt in aerated concrete house. The production of an armored belt begins with the calculation of its cross-section and the choice of the type of formwork - removable or non-removable, as well as the “pie” of the entire structure.

Eyeonenow User FORUMHOUSE

I am building a house from aerated concrete 37.5 cm thick, with brick lining and a ventilated gap of 3.5 cm. I do not want to use special factory-made U-blocks for pouring the reinforced belt. I saw on our forum the following diagram when building a house, how to insulate an armored belt - on wall block installs a partition block 10 cm thick, then insulation (EPS) is applied, and it is installed from inside the house removable formwork. I also saw an option where the insulation is pressed close to brickwork. With this scheme, a belt of greater width is obtained.

To understand which option to choose, let’s turn to the experience of FORUMHOUSE experts.

44alex User FORUMHOUSE

I built a house from aerated concrete 40 cm thick. In my opinion, a ventilated gap of 3.5 cm between the wall and the cladding is not enough; it is optimal to leave a gap of 5 cm. If you look at the “pie” of the armored belt from the inside out, it was as follows:

removable formwork;
concrete 20 cm;
EPPS 5 cm;
septum block 15 cm.

Concrete belt, reinforced with metal fittings, is one of important elements construction of house walls made of aerated concrete blocks. The strength of walls that receive vertical loads from interfloor ceilings and roofs and transfer them to the foundation of the building. The armored belt also additionally strengthens the structure of the house from deformation during soil movement.

Concrete itself is a material that has the highest compressive strength, while the reinforcement works well in tension. Therefore, the reinforced concrete armored belt is capable of carrying very large bending loads without any slightest deformation. At the same time, the gas-block walls located underneath will experience several times less load, since the armored belt distributes it evenly over them.

An armored belt is poured onto aerated concrete walls under the roof, for installation (support beams for rafters), under slabs and beams of interfloor floors, as well as for strengthening block, pile and column foundations.

Armobelt for the walls of a house made of aerated concrete

Often inexperienced, novice builders don’t even know what the walls are for one-story house should be filled reinforced concrete belt. And the need for its device lies in the following reasons:

Armored belt sizes

Monolithic is poured around the perimeter of the entire building, and its dimensions are tied to the width of the external and internal walls.

The height can be filled according to upper level aerated block or lower, but it is not recommended to raise it above 300 mm - it will be easy unjustified waste of material and increasing the load on the walls of the house.

The width of the armored belt for aerated concrete is made according to the width of the wall, but it may be a little narrower.

Concrete belt reinforcement

For reinforcement, metal or fiberglass reinforcement is used. Usually its cross-section does not exceed 12 mm. Most often, the reinforcement cage consists of four long rods that laid along the wall of the house. From these, using brackets from reinforcement of a smaller cross-section, a square or rectangular frame is formed. Long reinforcing bars, every 300 - 600 mm, are attached to the brackets with tying wire. It is not recommended to use welding to connect them in the frame because the metal at the point of penetration is weakened, and at the same time, corrosion may occur at this point.

The frame should not be allowed to come into contact with aerated concrete blocks. To do this, special plastic pads with a height of about 30 mm are placed under it. As a last resort, you can place separate pebbles of crushed stone.

Attention. To properly make a frame for a reinforced belt, it is recommended to use reinforcement only with a ribbed surface, which ensures rigid adhesion to concrete.

When can you do without an armored belt?

Pouring a reinforced belt to strengthen walls does not always make sense. Therefore, in order not to spend extra capital on purchasing materials, you should know in what cases you can do without a reinforced concrete belt:

The foundation is located on solid rock.
The walls of the house are built of brick.

It is also not necessary to pour a concrete belt over aerated concrete blocks if a wooden floor will rest on them. To unload the ceiling, under load-bearing beams floors, it will be enough to fill small supporting structures with concrete concrete platforms about 60 mm thick.

In other cases, when construction is carried out on peat bogs, clay, and other weak soils, it is necessary to make an armored belt. It is especially impossible to do without it when constructing walls made of aerated concrete, expanded clay and other large-cell blocks, which are fragile materials.

Gas blocks are practically incapable carry point loads and become covered with cracks at the slightest subsidence of the foundation or when the soil moves.

How to fill an armored belt with concrete correctly

When filling, the following rules must be observed:

Concrete placement must be completed in one continuous duty cycle. For a high-quality reinforced concrete belt, partially dried layers of concrete mass are unacceptable.
Air bubbles should not be allowed to remain in the concrete mass, which form pores and thereby reduce the strength of hardened concrete.

To prevent this from happening, freshly poured concrete must be compacted using an internal vibrator or a special attachment using a hammer drill. In extreme cases, it can be compacted with a tamper or a metal pin.

Types of belts and their functions

Reinforced concrete belts are poured to strengthen structures such as:

Sometimes when constructing small outbuildings it is used reinforced brick belt on aerated concrete walls. To do this, 4 or 5 rows are laid out on the walls, across its entire width. building bricks. Between the rows, in an armored belt made of bricks on walls made of aerated concrete, in the process of work, it is laid on mortar metal grid, welded from wire 4 - 5 mm thick with cells 30 - 40 mm. Floor beams or a wooden Mauerlat can be placed on top to secure the roof.

Reinforced armored belt on aerated concrete

For a reinforced belt, which is poured over aerated concrete blocks, it is used concrete mortar grade M 200. Load-bearing reinforcement with a cross-section of 12 mm is fastened in a frame with transverse square or rectangular clamps using knitting wire. Clamps are made from smooth reinforcement with a diameter of no more than 4-6 mm. The supporting reinforcement is overlapped with each other with an overlap of at least 150 mm and tied together with soft knitting wire.

The belt can be made without a three-dimensional frame of 4 reinforcing bars. Sometimes a flat frame of two rods is sufficient, which is assembled in almost the same way as a volumetric one. Only in this case, for transverse ligation, not clamps are used, but individual reinforcing bars.

The connected frame can be laid in wooden formwork, which is made from boards. You can also use aerated concrete blocks of the top row as formwork. But first you need to cut them out inner part, so that the block turns out to be something like a box without end walls. The blocks are stacked with the resulting shelves up, after which the frame is laid in them.

When laying the frame, you need to ensure that there is space between the reinforcement and the formwork walls, as well as the lower blocks. small space about 20 – 30 mm.

After bookmarking in formwork reinforcement cage , you can additionally make and attach to it the necessary embedded parts that will be needed to secure the Mauerlat or other elements from the house structure.

Separate reinforced belt under monolithic slab no overlap is done. The slab itself distributes almost all vertical loads evenly onto the walls, and at the same time it is the main stiffening rib for the house and connects almost all the walls of the building with each other, combining them into one spatial structure.

It would be ideal if it takes up the entire width of the wall. But this is usually done if on the facade side insulation will be installed, blocking the cold bridge that can form through concrete. But in the case where only plaster finishing is expected on the outside, its thickness will need to be reduced within 40 - 50 mm to lay foam plastic or other insulation.

To insulate the belt, you can use thin ones (100 mm) partition blocks, which are installed and temporarily secured along the edge of the wall. A frame is laid between them and everything is filled with concrete. In this case, the partition blocks play the role of formwork and at the same time insulation.

Reinforced belt for wooden Mauerlat

Since aerated concrete blocks have a fragile porous structure, it will not be possible to firmly attach them to rafter system roofs of the house. Under the influence of wind, the fastenings will simply become loose over time and the roof may become deformed. And with a strong gusty wind, it can simply be blown away.

In addition, when the roof is loosened, when its fasteners are weakened, the upper rows of block masonry will also collapse over time. Therefore, reinforced concrete belt for strong connection roofs with walls made of aerated concrete blocks are simply necessary.

The reinforced belt for mounting the Mauerlat can be smaller in width than its counterparts for the ceiling and foundation, since the vertical load on it is minimal. Therefore, to reinforce it, often to save money, a frame with two reinforcing bars is used.

To securely fasten the Mauerlat in the belt, even before pouring it, vertical anchors are installed bolts with external thread , which together with the frame are filled with concrete. In this case, the thread rises above the concrete by approximately 200 - 250 mm.

To firmly fix the Mauerlat, they drill into it through holes, through which it is put on the anchors, after which it is firmly pressed to the concrete with nuts.

Eventually- a properly made reinforced concrete belt can provide a house built from aerated concrete blocks with high strength and durable operation. At the same time, it will be able to protect walls from deformation and cracks, maintain the strength of the roof and extend the service life of the house by 3-4 times.