How to insulate a house from Sibit from the outside. Insulation of an aerated concrete house

Aerated concrete is a building material from the category of cellular concrete. It has excellent heat-saving properties due to the porous structure obtained thanks to additives that form many hydrogen bubbles.

At the same time, aerated concrete is durable and able to withstand heavy loads, which is the reason for the growing popularity of the material. Insulation of a house made of aerated concrete is not always required, but for regions with low winter temperatures this procedure is necessary in any case, otherwise the moisture present in the thickness of the material will begin to freeze, expand and cause the destruction of the walls.

Choose a method: outside or inside

Most effective option- external insulation. It allows you to preserve the thermal insulation properties of the walls and use them to the maximum extent. In addition, installing a heat insulator outside allows you to save the area of ​​the interior; the surface of the walls can be used for hanging furniture, appliances or lighting.

Internal insulation considered a less effective option. Installing a layer of thermal insulation between the walls and the interior warm air eliminates the possibility of their heating, making the walls only mechanical fences. The whole point of using aerated concrete is lost, since the possibility of heat conservation is practically not used. Therefore, internal insulation is carried out only as a last resort, when it is not possible to install an insulator outside.

When choosing a technique, it is necessary to seek opportunities for external insulation to the maximum extent possible in order to obtain the greatest possible effect as a result.

What does the “pie” of insulating a wall made of aerated concrete blocks consist of?

The composition of the insulation cake for aerated concrete blocks is practically no different from other options and includes:

• wall surface
• lathing (frame)
• heat insulator
• layer of vapor-waterproofing membrane
• ventilated gap
• external cladding

The above list includes the layers from which the so-called . This is an installation technology in which an air space is created between the insulation and the sheathing, thanks to which water vapor can freely escape from the heat insulator.

This possibility must be provided without fail, since aerated concrete has high vapor permeability, and if you do not create conditions for the timely release of steam, the wall will begin to get wet and collapse. Moreover, the degree of vapor permeability of all subsequent layers installed on the wall should be slightly higher than that of aerated concrete, otherwise the steam will not have time to escape from the walls, will accumulate and begin to destroy the house.

This point is of great importance for the organization of insulation, since failure to comply with the requirements for decreasing the vapor permeability of materials entails very harmful consequences.

A dilemma arises: Either carry out the insulation correctly, or not start this procedure at all.

Types of materials

Only a few types of insulating materials are used for insulation, although there are many more. The reason for this condition is that users choose materials that are most suitable in terms of performance, cost and installation complexity. Let's consider popular types heat insulators used to insulate aerated concrete walls.

Styrofoam

The correct name for this material is granulated polystyrene foam . The name “foam plastic” is the same story as with “copier” or “foam rubber” - once upon a time a material named after the manufacturer first appeared on sale.

Polystyrene foam is the most common and popular insulation. Reasons for this:

• record low price
• light weight
• ease of processing
• smooth slabs that hold their geometric shape well
• moisture resistance
• low, almost zero vapor permeability

The last property of the material allows use it only for internal insulation, although unprepared people often install it outside.

Attention! Often, instructions for installing polystyrene foam outside constantly appear on the Internet. This should not be done under any circumstances.

The vapor permeability of the material is close to zero, so moisture will begin to accumulate at the aerated concrete-foam interface. Sooner or later the wall will get wet, mold, mildew, and a bad smell will appear. If it freezes, destruction will be a matter of time. This must be taken into account and the material used where it will not bring undesirable consequences.

Installation of polystyrene foam is carried out using a special adhesive composition, similar to the mortar for installing tiles. A layer of glue is applied to the wall, then the insulator plate is tightly applied to it and fixed with dowels with wide washers (fungi).

The material is installed as tight as possible, without cracks or gaps, which should be immediately filled with polyurethane foam, thin strips of polystyrene foam, or the same glue on which the sheets are attached. After the entire wall area is covered with foam plastic, a fiberglass reinforcing mesh is attached to its surface with brackets and a layer of plaster is applied.

You can use another type of installation, when a frame (lathing) is pre-installed on the wall, into the sockets of which pieces of insulation are tightly installed. Then the cladding is installed on the frame slats - lining, Wall panels, sheet materials etc. This method allows you to complete the work faster and avoid dealing with “wet” solutions.

Penoplex

Penoplex is trademark material called " extruded polystyrene foam" Chemically, it is the same substance as polystyrene foam, but a different production technology radically changes its properties.

Penoplex is monolithic slab, absolutely resistant to moisture, having zero vapor permeability. The material is hard, durable, with high thermal insulation qualities. Due to lack of steam permeability Only indoor installation is allowed. Penoplex is less common than its granular counterpart, since it appeared on the market relatively recently, and its cost is noticeably higher.

Sequence of work

Penoplex installation is carried out using the same technology as foam installation. The only nuance in this matter is preference for “wet” finish, since the material is quite rigid and is able to provide a strong and reliable supporting plane for plaster.

Recommended choose a material with a corrugated surface, the plaster adheres better to it, does not peel off over time and allows you to drill holes for brackets for hanging furniture or equipment. The dry installation method is also used, although in this case there is no reason to create a full-fledged sheathing - it is quite possible to get by by installing vertical or horizontal planks at a distance convenient for installing the sheathing.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a classic heat insulator for outdoor use. It is made from molten rocks and has a lot of varieties, both in the type of source material and in shape.

There is rolled mineral wool, mats, and there is also a slab variety that is sufficiently rigid to serve as a base for plaster.

Roll or slab varieties are most often used as external insulation. They have relatively low weight and high heat-saving capabilities.

Minvata has high vapor permeability, but, as a result, absorbs water well. Therefore, the insulation during installation Always cover with a layer of waterproofing(most often a vapor-waterproofing membrane is used, which has the property of releasing water vapor and cutting off moisture in the opposite direction).

Sequence of work

To install mineral wool first the sheathing is installed with a thickness of strips equal to or slightly greater than the thickness of the insulator. The pitch of the sheathing is taken equal to the width of the roll or slab of mineral wool, so that it does not have to be adjusted to fit the nests of the frame. The material is tightly inserted between the slats, no gaps or cracks are allowed. If they do appear, you should fill them with polyurethane foam, for which you must always keep the container at hand.

On top of the installed mineral wool with horizontal stripes vapor barrier membrane is installed. First, the bottom strip is laid, fixed to the sheathing with a stapler, then the next one is overlapped by 10-15 cm - and so on until the very top. All joints must be additionally connected with special tape.

The second layer of the frame is installed on top of the membrane in the transverse direction - counter-lattice. They have a thickness of at least 4 cm (the minimum size of the ventilated gap), after which sheathing is installed on them.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is significantly different from all other types of heat insulators. He is a liquid, which foams and hardens in air, like polyurethane foam.

The layer obtained as a result of application is is completely sealed, completely impermeable to either water or steam, which automatically determines the area of ​​​​use of polyurethane foam - interior work.

An important advantage of the material is the ability to install (spray) on a surface of any degree of complexity, with any relief or type of material. This makes polyurethane foam indispensable for roofing, attic spaces and other places with a complex composition of surfaces, where the installation of conventional insulation is difficult or completely impossible.

Sequence of work

Before application you should prepare the surface. Remove all brackets, clean off deposits, remove crumbling or peeling parts. The material can adhere to damp (not wet) surfaces, but if there is ice on them, it should be removed.

Installation of sheathing is performed only to create a supporting structure for the subsequent installation of the cladding, therefore all requirements for it are determined by the type and size of the outer covering.

For applying polyurethane foam special equipment is used. Usually, specialists with the necessary equipment, experience and skills for such work are invited to do this. Self-application It is not recommended to do this, since it is necessary to know exactly the degree of expansion of the foam in order to ensure the correct consumption of material and create a layer of insulation of the required thickness.

What insulation is best for walls made of cellular concrete?

Cellular concrete differs from conventional grades in its porosity, hygroscopicity and high vapor permeability. Since it is necessary to follow the rule that requires increasing the degree of vapor permeability in the direction from inside to outside, then determine the best option a heat insulator is possible only by knowing which side the installation will be made from.

If installation is planned outside, then the best option is stone (basalt) mineral wool, which has indicators that meet all requirements.

For indoor installation, the best option is a minimum (ideally zero) degree of permeability to water vapor. In this case, both polystyrene foam and penoplex are suitable.

Polyurethane foam would be a good option, although it is more difficult to use in residential areas - decorative finishing more labor-intensive after spraying It is easier to use penoplex than when using other materials.

Do you need waterproofing and vapor barrier for aerated concrete façade?

Hydro- and vapor barrier of aerated concrete walls necessary only when insulating from the inside, when reliable multi-stage separation of material from steam contained in the internal air of residential premises is needed. In this case, no precaution will become unnecessary, except for the situation when liquid polyurethane foam is used. It in itself is an excellent vapor-waterproofing agent; the use of additional layers is useless or even harmful.

If insulation is carried out from the outside, no cutting layers between the wall and the insulation are needed. There are exceptions here - it is allowed to install an insulating membrane between the wall and the mineral wool if there is a real danger of it getting wet. In this case, there should be no impregnations or primers, otherwise the steam will be trapped in the wall and the result of insulation will be the slow destruction of the walls of the house.

Nowadays, foam concrete and aerated concrete have become widely popular in construction. Aerated concrete is a modern material that has heat permeability and vapor permeability. The opinion of manufacturers is that insulation of aerated concrete walls is not required. However, is this really so? I will talk about the reasons, choice and process of insulation in this article.

Do I need to insulate the walls?

To figure out whether it’s worth insulating your home, you need to highlight several factors:

1. Take into account the climate zone of your residence;
2. Determine the density and thickness of the blocks;
3. Determine the thickness of the seams between the blocks.

I can say that the best option is to think about insulation at the stage of wall construction. This is explained by the fact that laying blocks on cement and thick seams (they are called “cold zones”) can lead to heat leaving the house. To prevent this from happening, the blocks must be laid on special glue, and the seams should be made no more than 3 mm.

If the thickness of the blocks themselves exceeds 375 mm, then only cladding can be done. In this case, two conditions must be met: the blocks are not too dense, and the seams are made perfectly.

Your home needs insulation if:

• High-density aerated concrete (more than D500) was used during construction;
• low-density aerated concrete (below 300mm) was used during construction;
• during construction, the supporting frames were filled with aerated concrete blocks;
• very thick seams are used;
• When laying the blocks, not glue was used, but cement mortar.

All these factors together make it clear that it is necessary to think about thermal insulation so that there is no cold and discomfort in winter.

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Choice of insulation

There are several types of material for insulating aerated concrete walls.

Mineral wool (glass wool and stone wool) is made from glass fibers in an industrial waste treatment process metallurgical industry and silicate minerals. Mineral wool is environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable and does not burn.

Expanded polystyrene is easy to use. The material is waterproof, inexpensive, but does not have particularly high sound insulation properties. It is vapor proof and not as fire resistant as mineral wool.

Polyurethane foam The material has high thermal insulation properties and is easy to apply.

There are also: extruded polystyrene foam, foam glass and slabs of wood and cork. These materials are not so common, and if you have decided to insulate with them, then it would not be superfluous to consult a specialist.

Walls can be insulated using regular plaster with the addition of sawdust or expanded glass. The material is relatively cheap, comfortable and practical. The main disadvantage: aerated concrete with such insulation loses its “breathing” properties.

When choosing insulation, you need to determine: do you need a vapor-tight or vapor-permeable wall? If the first, then you need polystyrene foam, if the second, cellular concrete. When working with polystyrene foam, it is worth making ventilation both for exhaust and for air intake.

Vapor-permeable paints, plasters, facing bricks, lumber and siding are very popular.

Where to insulate - outside or inside?

There are two ways to insulate a house. Inside and out. Many experts do not recommend insulating walls from aerated concrete, explaining that it is a “breathable” material. It stores heat very well, and conventional insulation materials are often inferior to it in their vapor permeability. It is also worth remembering the danger of moisture appearing between the wall and the insulation, which can result in the formation of fungus. Therefore, in order to prevent this, the vapor permeability of the insulation must be higher than the aerated concrete blocks.

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When insulating your home you:

1. better retain heat in the house;
2. get better sound insulation;
3. protect porous blocks from moisture;
4. take care of the aesthetic side, due to the fact that the blocks themselves do not have a very “marketable” appearance.

We insulate the house from the outside

Insulating concrete walls from the outside is a more popular option. The two most common types of insulation are mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Sufficient thickness – 5 cm.

Installation of insulation on a wall made of aerated concrete

When insulating a house with polystyrene foam, do not forget that this material will not allow the wall to “breathe”, so you need to take care of ventilation. And this pleasure is not cheap. If the vapor permeability regime is disrupted, condensation may occur between the wall and the insulation. Therefore, with enough high humidity Working with polystyrene foam is not recommended.

Important! When insulating walls made of aerated concrete, follow the rule: a lower level of vapor permeability inside – a higher level outside.

We insulate from the inside

This option is partly more convenient than the first, because damaged material can be replaced fairly quickly. When insulating, you should work extremely carefully with the material, making sure that there is no displacement. Otherwise, thermal insulation from the inside is carried out using the same materials and in the same sequence as the outside.

Wherein this method has serious disadvantages: the area of ​​​​the room is reduced, and the threat of fungi looms.

My advice is this: if it is possible to insulate walls made of aerated concrete both outside and inside, choose the first option.

Installation of insulation on walls

For insulation you need to have a set necessary tools and materials:

1. thermal insulation material;
2. special glue that will attach the sheets to the walls;
3. dowels (“umbrellas”) – if you need to attach mineral wool mats;
4. fiberglass mesh;
5. any container for preparing the adhesive mixture;
6. building level;
7. notched spatula;
8. perforator;
9. perforated corners.

Considering that prices for gas and electricity are constantly rising, the issue of home insulation becomes very relevant. And this is quite understandable.

After all, if the walls in the house are properly insulated, then:

Simply put, with an insulated facade you will actually warm the house, not the street. However, the most important thing here is not just to insulate the walls, but to be able to do it correctly!

And it is especially important to correctly insulate aerated concrete walls from the outside - after all this material has certain characteristics and unique features, which are very different from the properties of standard brick walls. Therefore, keep in mind that not every insulation will “work” effectively on a facade made of aerated concrete.

Example of a gas block wall

In this article we will look at which technologies are suitable for such walls and which are not. Then we will choose the best and most suitable option, which we will try to implement step by step with our own hands.

But first, it’s probably worth getting acquainted with the features of aerated concrete walls in order to better understand why this or that technology can be used, and why, on the contrary, not.

So, short review material and walls made from it.

Features of aerated concrete walls

Aerated concrete blocks consist of:

• cement,
• sand,
• water,
• as well as limestone.

However, the blocks are not just cast in molds, but are made using a special technology. Due to the contact of gas-forming agents (for example, aluminum powder) with water, pores and cells are formed in the composition of the initial mixture during solidification.

After the block has hardened, it is processed in an autoclave - due to “hardening” with steam, the product acquires very good rigidity. Well, the presence of pores gives the material good thermal insulation qualities.

Processing aerated concrete with a hacksaw

Here a reasonable question arises: why then insulate walls made of aerated concrete if they are already warm enough?

In fact, everything is very simple.

Walls made of aerated concrete do not need to be insulated if you live in fairly warm, southern regions. In this case, such walls need at least finishing with plaster, since the material is afraid of moisture.

Please note that you need to use special plaster - vapor-permeable, since aerated concrete has a good level of vapor exchange, which means that moisture and fumes from inside the house will immediately escape. And if there is ordinary plaster on the facade, then condensation will accumulate between it and the plane of the wall, due to which the plaster itself will fall off and the thermal insulation qualities of the wall will decrease.

Vapor-permeable facade plaster

But if your area has the most common winters, with cold winters, then it is still very advisable to insulate the walls, since it will be easier for the boiler to warm up the house, and if something happens, the room will not cool down so quickly. And of course, you need to insulate the walls if you want to minimize heating costs.

Now let's figure out how to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside - more precisely, what is the best way to do it.

Insulation options: which material and technology is best to use

It is worth noting that the following are fairly general recommendations. That is, in your particular case, there may be some nuance due to which one or another “forbidden” technology will have to be used.

For example, as will be discussed below, it is not recommended to cover aerated concrete walls with expanded polystyrene, since sheets of expanded polystyrene practically do not allow steam to pass through. However, this recommendation is relevant for projects in which the house is insulated very efficiently and for a very long time.

If your budget is limited and you need to insulate an extension “for a couple of years”, which will then be completely rebuilt or renovated, then there is no point in doing expensive insulation - polystyrene foam is quite suitable. Because its price is low, and it is the fastest to insulate (see more in the article Insulating a facade with polystyrene foam: the correct sequence of work and important nuances).

Expanded polystyrene

Therefore, take into account all the features of the situation, and only after that make a decision to purchase this or that material.

So, let's begin the review of insulation technologies.

Insulation with foam plastic or polystyrene foam

In principle, everything is more or less clear here.

As mentioned above, it is good to insulate aerated concrete walls from the outside with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene as a temporary or “economy” option. Mainly due to poor vapor permeability of materials.

In addition, this technology is excellent in cases where you need to quickly insulate the facade with your own hands, but the technician does not have the experience and necessary skills. The thing is that polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are lightweight, easy to cut and attach to the wall and, in principle, you don’t need a lot of experience and expensive tools.

It is also convenient to use polystyrene foam to insulate plastic windows, or rather the slopes near them. To do this, strips are cut from the sheet the right size and are simply simply glued to the slopes, and then puttied and painted.

Foam slopes

Let's consider the following technology.

Insulation with mineral wool: “wet” method or suspended ventilated facade

Mineral wool has one property suitable for aerated concrete - it allows steam to pass through its structure well. This means that it is not only possible, but rather necessary, to insulate walls and aerated concrete facades with mineral wool using simple technology.

However, there are, of course, important nuances.

Since mineral wool, like aerated concrete, is afraid of moisture, it must be protected with something on top. In most cases, either stucco or siding is used.

It turns out that the last option seems to be good - since the facade is ventilated, but there are pitfalls here. The fact is that aerated concrete is not as durable a material as, for example, brick, which means that the curtain wall will not hold up on every wall.

Therefore, if the walls are aerated concrete, it is better to use vapor-permeable plaster to decorate the walls and protect the mineral wool.

Scheme of facade insulation with mineral wool

Please also note that not all mineral wool is suitable for insulating external walls. For example, the same “Ursa” is good for insulating a loggia from the inside, internal partitions and walls, but this wool is not suitable for finishing the facade due to its very soft structure.

For outdoor work, you need to use denser and stiffer wool (for example, “Rockwool”).

Mineral wool "Rockwool"

One of the disadvantages of mineral wool insulation is that the price of the material is not the lowest.

But in the end you will get a truly effective and high-quality result - the house will be:

• warm up well and quickly;
• cool down slowly;
• and at the same time there will be no condensation on the plane of the walls outside.

And let’s briefly get acquainted with less popular, but still used and even effective methods of insulating walls made of aerated concrete.

Other insulation options

There are also the following methods for insulating a façade made of aerated concrete blocks:

• Using a layer between aerated concrete and an additional brick wall. This is actually done often - aerated concrete is essentially a rough wall on top of which a decorative brick wall is built. It turns out that there is no need to putty or paint anything. However, this option is, of course, quite expensive. And the layer itself can be empty (air) or contain some kind of filler (for example, sawdust).

An example of an air gap between walls

• By using liquid polyurethane foam. This technology for insulating polyurethane foam is very simple, but not cheap. A beam is mounted to the walls (vertically) at a distance of about half a meter from each other, and the entire space between it is filled with polyurethane foam.

This material resembles polyurethane foam, it is sticky, thanks to which it adheres well to the gas block, and then expands and hardens. After hardening, the excess is cut off and the surface is puttied or painted.

The advantage here is that the hardened polyurethane foam becomes, as it were, a monolithic continuation of the main wall, without any air gaps between them, and due to this there is no condensation. Well, the downside is that the price is quite high.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

Please note that you cannot insulate aerated concrete walls from the outside with polyurethane foam if the cost of such a service is suspiciously low. As a rule, this only happens when the material is of poor quality or even toxic. Remember - really good material simply cannot be cheap!

So, it turns out that the most inexpensive, effective and optimal technology in all respects is the insulation of aerated concrete facades using mineral wool, followed by puttying of the surface.

Let's look briefly at how this kind of work is usually done.

Insulation of the facade with mineral wool and finishing with vapor-permeable plaster

It is worth noting that, in fact, the process of insulating a house with aerated concrete walls must begin even before the material is purchased or even selected.

In particular, we are talking about the fact that in such walls the main bridge for heat leakage to the outside is the seams. The thicker they are, the worse. That is why you should take care of this moment in advance and try to make the seams as thin and neat as possible.

Don’t skimp on this and use special glue for masonry rather than a standard cement-sand mortar. Only with the use of this glue can you get truly high-quality seams.

An example of quality seams

So, the sequence of work on insulating a facade with mineral wool using the “wet method” will be something like this:

These are the instructions.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated, if you try and take into account all the nuances, you can insulate the house quite efficiently.

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Page 2

Expanding the topic of this article, it is necessary first of all to answer the question of what aerated concrete is. Well, first of all, it is a building material. Secondly, it belongs to the category of cellular concrete, as a result of which a porous structure saturated with gas bubbles is formed inside the material.

Accordingly, the quality of this material will largely depend on the uniform distribution of pores, their density and closedness.

Is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete - it is necessary and necessary

Note! Basically this is natural material, which is made from quartz sand and cement with the addition of special gas-forming agents.

Most often, their role is performed by aluminum powder.

Technologies for the production of aerated concrete are different, hence the recipe, which varies depending on the type of technological process. For example, manufacturers often add lime to the composition of aerated concrete, less often gypsum.

The production technology is quite simple.

1. All components are mixed in certain proportions.
2. Molding takes place, where the material begins to expand under the influence of chemical reaction, during which gas formation occurs.
3. After preliminary drying, the aerated concrete is cut into blocks.
4. Then the finished product must be dried. There are two methods: autoclave and non-autoclave.

Insulation pie

Attention! When using the first method, the strength characteristics of the material increase, but at the same time its price becomes higher.

Please pay attention to one very important point that relates to the topic of our article. The porous structure of aerated concrete suggests that this material itself is a good heat insulator. True, there is one “BUT” here. By increasing the thermal insulation qualities of aerated concrete, we reduce its strength properties.

That is, the more pores inside the product, the weaker it is, but the higher the insulation performance. Therefore, the question of whether or not to insulate a house built from aerated concrete blocks will largely depend on the brand of the product. And if you purchase more porous blocks, then remember, you should not build multi-story buildings from them.

Now let's move on to the insulation process itself aerated concrete house outside and inside.

Is it necessary to insulate

We partially answered the question of whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete. But it is necessary to focus on another aspect. Aerated concrete blocks have high vapor permeability, that is, they “breathe” very well. This seems to be a big plus, but on the other hand it is also a minus.

When asked whether it is necessary to insulate aerated concrete, we answer “yes”

Attention! Walls made of aerated concrete blocks must be constructed in such a way that the vapor permeability of the material decreases from the outer surface of the wall to the inner one. That is, the question of how to properly insulate the walls of a house made of aerated concrete is solved in exactly this way.

If everything turns out the other way around, then the gas inside the pores will begin to gain moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the material, and, accordingly, the entire structure of the building as a whole.

To prevent the penetration of wet vapors into the body of the blocks, it is necessary to insulate the walls both outside and inside. Therefore, first of all, we will analyze several basic thermal insulation materials, which are currently most often used in this process.

Let's figure out how to insulate aerated concrete walls.

Insulation materials

The modern building materials market is now ready to offer a huge range of thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate aerated concrete.

Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam

Experts today give preference to such heat insulators as:

1. expanded polystyrene (regular and extruded);
2. polyurethane foam.

Expanded polystyrene - photo of material

• The first insulation has a different structure relative to the density of the material itself. For example, ordinary polystyrene foam (also known as polystyrene foam) is less durable, less dense, and, accordingly, less reliable. In addition, it does not have high thermal insulation rates. Extruded polystyrene foam is a dense and durable insulation material with high thermal insulation performance.

• Polyurethane foam unique material. Firstly, this mortar, which is applied to walls under pressure. Secondly, when it hits the surface, it instantly bonds with it, creating a reliable foam protective layer. Thirdly, such insulation will last for several decades.

Application of polyurethane foam

But there is one very serious point here. Expanded polystyrene is a slab material that is not difficult to lay on the wall with your own hands. But you won’t be able to apply polyurethane foam to the surfaces to be treated yourself.

This requires not only experience and skills, but also special equipment. Therefore, this method of insulation is quite expensive, but effective.

Mineral wool

I would like to say a little about mineral wool. This is one of the most effective thermal insulation materials. But experts note that it is better not to use it with aerated concrete.

The thing is that mineral wool has the property of drawing in moist air vapor, which is a negative factor for aerated concrete blocks (we have already discussed this above).

Mineral mats

So, you know which insulation for aerated concrete walls is better, now you can move on to the very process of arranging the thermal protection of the building.

And first of all, we will consider insulating aerated concrete with expanded polystyrene as the most budget option.

Insulation of walls made of aerated concrete blocks

As mentioned above, insulation of aerated concrete walls is carried out from the outside and from the inside. Why on both sides?

Remember! Humidity and condensation largely depend on the dew point. Until thermal insulation work is carried out, this point is located on the surface of the wall. As soon as the insulation process is completed, the dew point will shift to the surface of the heat insulator.

A small mistake or incorrect work can lead to condensation forming on the insulation, and this is a guarantee that this material will soon begin to lose its qualities and properties.

As in any construction process, the insulation of aerated concrete houses is divided into several stages.

Stage No. 1

This is the internal insulation of aerated concrete walls.

I would like to note that many of us independently insulated a loggia or balcony, so many technical processes will be familiar, taking into account the specifics of aerated concrete.

Is it necessary to insulate aerated concrete walls from the inside - plastering technology

• Basically, aerated concrete blocks– this is a very flat and smooth surface, which makes no sense to process it to perfection. But sometimes they also have defects. Therefore, cracks and chips are sealed with glue or cement mortar, and the bumps are removed sandpaper or a sharp spatula.
• After which the entire surface must be primed to create high wall adhesion. Please note that in some areas of the house the walls will be negatively affected by humidity. So these walls need to be treated without fail. waterproofing compounds. And when it all dries (usually this takes up to six hours), you can start plastering. In this case, there is no need to use a thick layer of plaster.
• And the last thing is finishing. The easiest way is to paint the walls with special vapor-permeable paints, which are specially made for aerated concrete. If plasterboard is used as finishing, then the wall must be additionally treated with a primer. By the way, drywall can be glued to such surfaces.

Stage No. 2

This is insulation of the facade of a house made of aerated concrete. Everything is much simpler here because there is no need to mess with dirty processes. Although it should be noted that manufacturers today began to offer plaster solutions, which are intended specifically for aerated concrete blocks.

Such solutions have excellent vapor-permeable properties, and also never crack.

Fastening the insulation with mushroom-shaped screws

Attention! There is one very important point. If the walls are treated with vapor-permeable materials from the inside and vapor-proof materials from the outside, then the likelihood that there will be increased humidity inside the house is very high.

Therefore, be extremely careful when choosing a heat insulator.

The slab material is laid directly on the wall, for which you can use either a cement-based fastening mortar or special mushroom-shaped screws. In the case of self-tapping screws, experts do not recommend using metal products that will begin to rust after a while.

And the last thing is finishing. What to choose?

In principle, there are a lot of materials, it’s better to note what not to choose.

• Vapor-proof paints;
• Polymer-based solutions;
• Solutions based on foamed plastics;
• Foam glass.

And one moment. It is imperative to leave a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finishing. For example, if it is brickwork, then it is necessary to build ventilation holes that are installed near the base and under the eaves (see also the article Insulating brick walls from the outside with your own hands).

Yes, and do not forget to insulate all elements of the house, otherwise there will be little benefit from the work done. We are talking about the insulation of plastic windows, entrance doors, basement, roof and so on.

Is it possible to insulate aerated concrete with polystyrene foam - is it possible with further finishing?

Conclusion on the topic

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this” width=”640″ height=”360″ frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen=”allowfullscreen”>

Conclusion on the topic

As you can see, the instructions on how to properly insulate a house made of aerated concrete using expanded polystyrene (foam plastic) are not that complicated. Of course, knowledge of the nuances this process will provide simplicity and reliability, but in any case, anyone can handle such a job without problems.

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

pro-uteplenie.ru

Insulation of a house made of aerated concrete from the outside: walls, reviews

Trying to build a house from modern building materials with the frame house insulated with mineral wool, a person naturally strives to save on thermal insulation. After all, in theory, the materials themselves will provide thermal insulation.

For example, construction from aerated concrete material is now very common. Aerated concrete is considered a porous and fairly durable material from which low-rise buildings can be built.

House made of aerated concrete blocks, awaiting insulation

Many people think that insulation is not required for a house made of aerated concrete. But that's not true. Moreover, reviews from users of such houses, on the contrary, confirm the fact that aerated concrete walls require insulation. It is about the insulation of aerated concrete walls that we will now talk about.

1 Features and purpose

First, let's figure out what this aerated concrete is and why it is so popular for cladding. wooden house from the inside. Aerated concrete was invented not so long ago, if you look at more ancient materials such as brick. However, in our area it has been actively used in construction for decades.

Aerated concrete is produced from binders, fillers, additives from industrial waste and specialty chemicals.

Powder and aluminum powder are used as chemical additives. They are foam sample converters.

That is, upon contact with water, the powder begins to release carbon dioxide. At the same time, the binders work fully, so the gas-filled block becomes cellular and hardens in the same state.

The result is the same aerated concrete. This is a relatively lightweight, but at the same time quite durable material. It can be used to build houses that are up to 10 meters high.

As a rule, houses up to 3 floors in height are assembled from aerated concrete without any restrictions. Everything higher is equipped with reinforcing belts. High-rise houses cannot be built from aerated concrete. This material is also excellent for arranging bathhouses, small buildings, etc.

The nuance of aerated concrete as well as insulation under siding for brick house The problem is that, due to its porosity, it really needs insulation. The material allows steam and air to pass through too easily and gains ambient temperature. If you do not insulate the walls of your house from the inside or outside, you may face quite serious problems.

Scheme of an insulating pie made of mineral wool

Fortunately, this can be done without any problems, but you have to be quite careful. Aerated concrete is not a standard brick or ordinary concrete. It has its own nuances, and when insulating a house, bathhouse or any other structure, it is important to take them into account.

Particular attention is paid to the decoration of the bathhouse. A bathhouse is characterized by excessive steam production, and the vapor permeability of aerated concrete, as mentioned above, is at a fairly high level.

If you organize wall insulation incorrectly, you can achieve unpleasant results. So, the walls of the bathhouse will begin to accumulate moisture, or, conversely, give it away too quickly. In any case, this will lead to rather negative results, which can only be solved with the help of drastic measures.

Therefore, to thermally insulate a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, as well as for any other buildings of this type, you need to use all the knowledge you have. to menu

2 Selecting material for insulation

Insulation for aerated concrete for insulating a veranda with your own hands also plays a huge role. You can use different models of insulation, but not all of them are well suited for performing certain tasks.

Thus, insulation of aerated concrete walls from the outside and inside is most often performed:

• Mineral wool;
• Expanded polystyrene;
• Foamed insulation such as penoizol or polyurethane foam.

It is most convenient to insulate aerated concrete houses with mineral wool. It has a relatively low weight, high level vapor permeability, does not burn in fire. Rodents will not live in it either, and for a house made of aerated concrete this is a big plus.

It is better not to use simple mineral wool to insulate an aerated concrete bath, as it reacts poorly to contact with moisture.

But mineral wool from famous manufacturers Insulation of bathhouses and other similar buildings, although with caution, can be carried out. And all because branded mineral wool insulation has much higher quality.

Mineral wool is excellent for insulating aerated concrete

They are, as a rule, hydrophobic as insulation for country houses, and do not absorb moisture at all. The only serious drawback of mineral wool is its price.

Not everyone can afford to take sufficient quantity insulation to completely finish a two-story house outside or inside.

Expanded polystyrene, if you look without asking the price, turns out much better than mineral wool. In terms of its characteristics, polystyrene foam is almost in no way inferior to it, and its price is much lower.

But once you take a closer look and take into account the special aerated concrete house, the situation immediately changes. The main problem of polystyrene foam is its poor vapor permeability. Using such materials will shift the dew point into the wall, causing the blocks to slowly deteriorate.

Level these unpleasant consequences possible by using vapor barrier film or something similar, but you are unlikely to be able to completely get rid of the problem. Expanded polystyrene can also become a home for rodents. They eat it with amazing speed.

As you can see, you can use polystyrene foam to insulate a brick house from the outside, but with great caution. Sometimes you can combine polystyrene foam and mineral wool. For example, decorate parts of the house with foam plastic where there is minimal steam emission. But rooms with large openings such as kitchens or bathrooms should be insulated with mineral wool.

If you still cannot afford to work with mineral insulation, then finishing with foam plastic will be enough for you. It's still better than freezing in winter. And working with polystyrene foam is very convenient. It’s just better to use it from the inside, and do it wisely.

Polyurethane foam is also good for wall insulation. This is a foamy material that can be sprayed using special tools. It perfectly insulates the surface of the walls, allows steam to pass through to a moderate extent and is not afraid of moisture.

Application of polyurethane foam on the walls of aerated concrete house

The only problem is its price. Polyurethane foam is very expensive. Moreover, both the material itself and its application will be expensive. That is why these solutions are practically not used in individual civil construction. to menu

2.1 Wall insulation technology

As you yourself understand, a house made of aerated concrete can be insulated both from the inside and from the outside.

Internal wall insulation is easier to perform. Such work is always easier to carry out, because you do not have to assemble large structures, worry about additional waterproofing and do a bunch of additional things.

Interior decoration any man who has at least once encountered construction work.

Of course, the first couple of hours will be spent stabilizing and training your hand, but then the work will go like clockwork. And the area inside is smaller than outside. This means that the possibility of making a mistake is reduced.

It is better to insulate the walls of a house from the inside using wet technology. That is, use dowels and various fasteners to a minimum. Aerated concrete really doesn’t like things like that, just like insulating a wooden house from the outside with penoplex.

If you still need to resort to using dowels, then buy a special fastener with a chemical base. It doesn't destroy that much load-bearing structure block.

Stages of work:

1. We prepare the wall, remove all unnecessary elements.
2. We prime the base.
3. We apply a solution to the insulation boards and glue them to the wall.
4. We cover the cracks with a solution, blow them with foam or seal them.
5. Apply a thin layer of plaster to the insulation. If mineral wool is used, then mesh will do.
6. We carry out the final finishing of the wall.

When finishing the inside, it is advisable to use only wet method and do not overdo it with plaster.

Installation of foam plastic slabs for insulation of aerated concrete houses

Moreover, we fasten the plaster using a mesh. This is a very important point. Without using a mesh, cracks may appear along the wall over time. As finishing you can choose any options you like.

It is better not to use a vapor barrier here or to place it directly under the plaster. This essentially eliminates the advantages provided by the vapor permeability of the insulation and the aerated concrete itself.

The house will become a little stuffier and more time will have to be devoted to ventilation or installation of a reliable ventilation system. But if there is no other way out, then it is better to ventilate the room than to suffer from a displaced dew point and all the consequences that will appear as a result.

External wall insulation is much more difficult process. Here it is better to involve specialists who have special equipment. You can work with both foam plastic and mineral wool. However, using mineral wool, as noted above, will be more useful.

Stages of work:

1. We prepare the surface.
2. We install flashings, limiting elements, plinth profiles, etc.
3. We prime and clean the base. We remove all unnecessary elements and calculate the insulation scheme.
4. We lay the insulation boards in a certain order. You can lay it on a layer of insulation adhesive.
5. Additionally, we use special chemical dowels to secure the slabs. Dowels are required for mineral wool. But they will not be superfluous if you use ordinary polystyrene foam.
6. We lay the waterproofing film.
7. Plaster the surface.
8. We apply the final finish to the surface of the facade.

2.2 Reviews about insulating walls made of aerated concrete

Example of using fasteners for aerated concrete

All that remains is to evaluate the reviews on the use of insulation for walls made of aerated concrete. Here are a few of them.

Dmitry, 43 years old, Moscow:

In a house built from aerated concrete, the question of the presence of insulation suddenly arose. To my surprise, the walls freeze pretty quickly. We managed to get the insulation done in a matter of days.

We only had to work with polystyrene foam, since we were limited in time and money. However, I don’t observe any discomfort from this. The house is warm and cozy; there is no dampness from the walls or problems with vapor permeability.

Anatoly, 29 years old, Minsk:

If you are going to insulate a house made of aerated concrete, then you won’t find a better insulation material than mineral wool. If you use polystyrene foam, you will neutralize all the advantages of aerated concrete that it has.

I worked with mineral wool myself. I had to spend some money, but it's worth it.

Ivan, 61 years old, Berdyansk:

I was engaged in finishing the exterior walls of aerated concrete. I used mineral wool in my work. We managed to cope quickly, although we didn’t have much experience. After completing the work, the temperature in the house immediately rose a couple of degrees.

2.3 Insulating the walls of a house made of aerated concrete (video)

uteplimvse.ru

External insulation of a house made of aerated concrete: installation technology

The majority of construction experts argue that insulating a house made of aerated concrete from the outside with mineral wool or some other insulation material is much more expedient than carrying out a similar event inside the house. Firstly, there is no loss of useful space in the room; secondly, the dew point moves far beyond the house; thirdly, this process can be carried out without installing the sheathing (second wall). Whether this is true or not, we will study in this material, but first, let’s remember the characteristics of porous masonry material.

What is aerated concrete?

Aerated concrete is a modern building material, quite popular among consumers, but it requires careful insulation. It belongs to the family of lightweight medium-cellular concrete, and therefore its volumetric mass relative to other building materials is not too high. As for its working density, it ranges from 350-650 kg/m3.

Aerated concrete is produced by mixing the following components:

• sand;
• lime;
• cement;
• aluminum powder;
• water.

It is the addition of aluminum powder that leads to gas formation, which in turn causes the appearance of cellular pores. The resulting mixture is cut to specified sizes using a special string. After this, the resulting gas blocks are subjected to high-temperature sintering in an industrial autoclave, where a pressure of 8-13 atmospheres is created. The presence of a gas-forming agent in the composition in the future allows stone structures to breathe, but still insulating a house made of aerated concrete from the outside with mineral wool or other insulation is an integral part of its construction.

Popular insulation materials for houses made of aerated concrete blocks: mineral wool and expanded polystyrene

Mineral wool

This material has good thermal insulation properties, but its installation requires the creation of a wooden sheathing on the wall of the house.

The process of insulating a house made of aerated concrete from the outside with mineral wool consists of next stages:

• Creating a sheathing. In this case, a vertical lathing made of bars measuring 50*50 mm is used. The distance between the bars is 60 cm. In general, these parameters depend on the size of the mineral wool slab, that is, the thickness of the bar corresponds to the thickness of the insulation, and the step between the bars corresponds to the width. Compliance with these proportions ensures a tight fit of the mineral wool to the wall and eliminates the formation of gaps or cracks.
• Laying insulation. Insulation of a house made of aerated concrete from the outside should be accompanied by dense filling of the space between the vertical bars of the sheathing. In this case, airy zones or uninsulated areas should not be allowed.

Important! To increase the effect of insulating a house with mineral wool, you can create an additional layer of sheathing, only this time horizontal. Its parameters will correspond to the previous layer and the horizontal beams will be attached directly to the vertical ones.

• Installation of waterproofing. The waterproof membrane is attached to the sheathing beams using a stapler, ensuring an overlap of at least 15 cm. It is advisable to seal the seams with mounting tape.
• Facade finishing. Additional beams are mounted on top of the waterproofing layer, which will be the basis for creating the façade cladding. In addition, the thickness of these beams will create a ventilated gap, which will allow air to move freely under the cladding and thereby draw out moisture.

Expanded polystyrene

Insulating a house made of aerated concrete from the outside using polystyrene foam comes in several types. Expanded polystyrene itself as a material exists in several component versions:

• Styrofoam. This material is produced in the form of slabs, 98% consisting of weightless, impermeable granules. These granules are subjected to high-temperature sintering, during which they acquire thermal insulation qualities that reduce the insulation of a house made of aerated concrete with foam plastic to new level. Next, the granules, using glue, are pressed under pressure and a pronounced foam structure is formed.

• Penoplex. It is also called extruded foam because the polystyrene foam is forced through an extruder head. Insulating a house made of aerated concrete from the outside with penoplex gives a greater effect, since this type of polystyrene foam is superior to polystyrene in all respects, and also does not require the creation of an additional layer of waterproofing.

External house insulation technology

As soon as the decision has been made to insulate a house made of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam, you can begin to implement such an event. But first, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic technological techniques that will significantly lighten the walls with polystyrene foam. First, you need to decide on the time of year; of course, summer will be the most suitable - minimal humidity and speed of work.

Note! If the wall has high humidity, you definitely need to let it dry. To speed up this process, you can warm the room from the inside using a heat gun. At the same time, the walls will heat up and will quickly get rid of moisture.

Preparing the walls

The wall must be as smooth, clean and safe as possible, that is, it must be treated with a special antiseptic solution that will prevent the appearance of fungi. After the antiseptic solution has been absorbed and dried, the wall must be covered with several layers of primer, this will increase the adhesion of the wall to polystyrene foam. When building a house from aerated concrete blocks, it is assumed that the wall is smooth and has no defects, but if there are defects, then it is advisable to eliminate them using cement mortar. The “repair” areas are also covered with a layer of primer.

Installation work

To insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside with penoplex, you need to apply an adhesive solution to the insulation board in a continuous, uniform layer. This will rid the wall of airy zones and thereby protect it from condensation. For more durable fastening of polystyrene foam to an aerated concrete wall, you can use special plastic dowels with large caps. A drill of the appropriate diameter is “loaded” into the hammer drill and a hole is made through the insulation in the wall. Then a fungus-new settler is inserted into it, into which a plastic dowel is driven, the new settler expands in the wall and is thereby secured.

When the insulation has been attached, it’s time to start arranging the façade cladding. For this purpose, a special reinforced mesh, increasing the coefficient of adhesion of the finishing layer to the heat insulating layer.

Fashionable polyurethane foam

Recently, insulation such as polyurethane foam has become widespread. It combines the properties of all the above-mentioned materials, and, among other things, has a number of its own advantages. So, polyurethane foam:

• fireproof;
• resistant to mold;
• moisture- and vapor-proof;
• inedible for rodents;
• resistant to large temperature changes.

Most often, walls are insulated with polyurethane foam from the inside, but this procedure is also possible from the outside. To do this, you need to create a sheathing on the house, so that in the future it will be possible to carry out external insulation of the house from aerated concrete under the siding. To begin with, beams (of any size) are attached to the wall. The pitch between the beams should be chosen so that the siding fastening is of high quality and reliable. Therefore, the most acceptable step is considered to be 50 cm.

Note! To install siding, instead of wooden sheathing, profile (metal) sheathing is often used. It is more durable and reliable. But if it is not possible to use metal profiles, then it is advisable to open the wooden beams with an anti-corrosion solution, which will increase their service life.

To insulate walls with polyurethane foam, you need a special sprayer, since this material is sold on the market in liquid form. After application to the surface, the insulator reacts with oxygen, foams and thereby fills all the free space of the sheathing. The advantage of polyurethane foam is the small thickness of the insulating layer, which allows you to save on the thickness of the timber. When the polyurethane foam has dried, you can begin external insulation of the aerated concrete house under the siding; this process consists of the following steps:

• installation of the starting bar;
• fastening vertical strips;
• type-setting fastening of siding panels (from bottom to top);
• hiding seams using butt fittings;
• installation of finishing strips.

Comparative characteristics of thermal insulators

To compare these insulation materials, you need to use a special table that will indicate the main operational parameters of each material. Basically they are similar to each other, but there are still differences, so consider the following table:

The table shows that the best heat insulator is polyurethane foam, but at the same time, the requirement for special equipment and the fairly high cost make it inaccessible to many residents of private houses. It is very important to pay attention to the quality of the material used, and you should not use cheaper analogues. There is an unwritten rule among builders: “If the price of any building material lower than its average on the market, then the material does not have one of the characteristic qualities.” Therefore, before you buy a heat insulator for external wall insulation, you need to make sure that it meets all international quality and safety standards. This can only be evidenced by an appropriate certificate; if there is no such certificate, then the product is not trustworthy. In conclusion, we offer a thematic video about the application of polyurethane foam.

ofacade.ru

How and how to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside

When I first thought about building a house from aerated concrete, I immediately began to fantasize about the future interior design. But a master I knew stopped me, warning me that I needed to think about insulating a house made of aerated concrete. The material itself has both advantages and disadvantages, so I began to take a closer look at thermal insulation materials that can be used specifically for aerated concrete structures.

We insulate the walls of an aerated concrete house from the outside

Building properties

We insulate a house made of aerated concrete with our own hands

The use of aerated concrete is in great demand, especially in Lately. With its help, houses are built in the shortest possible time, and the material has many advantages. The most important thing is the size of the blocks - this is what speeds up the construction process. In addition, aerated concrete is a good sound insulator and, although the manufacturer notes high thermal insulation rates, it is still better to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside.

To make blocks of building material, materials such as:

• Sand
• Limestone
• Cement

However, in addition to this, special components are added to the composition, which provoke the formation of pores. It is thanks to the resulting voids that good thermal insulation performance is noted. But not in all regions these indicators are sufficient and the question of insulating a house made of aerated concrete blocks is often raised. And since insulation from the outside is more profitable, I began to select suitable materials for thermal insulation.

Important! Carrying out insulation from the outside is due to the fact that this does not reduce the valuable area of ​​living rooms inside the house. And we all know how valuable these square meters are to us.

Use of polystyrene foam

Polystyrene foam for insulation of aerated concrete houses

Since foam plastic is quite in demand for insulating the walls of various buildings, I decided to consider this option. Being accessible and cheap, polystyrene foam is still in great demand, despite the large list of modern thermal insulation materials. Polystyrene foam has certain advantages:

1. Light weight and large sizes
2. Low cost
3. Easy to do DIY work

But despite its advantages, the material also has disadvantages. First of all, he's afraid ultraviolet radiation and therefore, under its influence, it begins to crumble and lose its performance characteristics. Secondly, mice chew on it. After thermal insulation work with foam plastic, it is necessary to carry out subsequent cladding of the facade. Typically, “wet” technology is used for this.

Popular thermal insulation materials

Do-it-yourself insulation of a house made of aerated concrete

Mineral wool is quite popular for use outside the house, but its installation will require lathing. Let's look at the steps with which you can carry out insulation with your own hands:

• The first step is to make the sheathing. It must be vertical and for its manufacture you will need bars measuring 5*5 cm. The standard distance between the bars should be 60 cm, however, these parameters are individual, as they are selected according to the size of the insulation used. The ideal would be to make the distance a couple of centimeters less than the width of the slabs. This way the fit will be as tight and high quality as possible.
• Laying the material - the fit of the insulation should be tight and without gaps. Only if installed correctly will the thermal insulation be of the highest quality.
• The waterproofing must be fixed to the sheathing beams. At the same time, the sheets must overlap, which is at least 15 cm. All seams are taped with mounting tape
• On top of the laid waterproofing, the sheathing should be installed again, on which the facing materials will subsequently be installed.

In this way, it turns out to kill two birds with one stone: not only to insulate the walls from the outside, but also to beautifully design the facade, make it more attractive, and the walls more protected from negative atmospheric influences.

To compare the popular materials used to insulate a house made from aerated concrete blocks, I have compiled a small table technical characteristics:

Having looked at the table, it becomes clear that of all the above materials, it is best to use polyurethane foam. However, due to the complexity of the work, this option is not possible for all residents of private houses.

Important! When insulating with mineral wool, special glue is used. With its help, the material is securely fixed to the surface of the wall of a house made of aerated concrete. When diluting the adhesive solution, you should strictly adhere to the manufacturer's instructions.

Gas silicate blocks and their insulation

How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside?

The use of gas silicate blocks is possible for construction low-rise buildings, its thermal insulation properties are quite high. However, cold bridges and negative manifestations that will undoubtedly appear after the material absorbs moisture. Insulation of a house made of gas silicate blocks can be done using either mineral wool or non-polystyrene. It is also possible to use thermal panels, which are made from ready-made external finishing. Thermal panels have a number of advantages:

1. Eco-friendly
2. Durable
3. Easy
4. Resistant to mechanical stress
5. Self-installation possible

Many experts claim that it is better not to insulate a gas silicate house with such panels. However, in practice it has long been clear that ventilation holes on the base and under the roof canopy allow air to circulate freely. Installation of such material occurs using lathing, but in this case it is made using metal profiles.

Installation of the panels is quite simple and the technology is the same as with siding panels. Don't forget about setting the starting bar. The material is secured using self-tapping screws.

Almost any home requires additional insulation, which can occur both inside and outside the house. However, high-quality work and the use of good materials are important. With proper surface preparation and knowledge of the technologies of all processes, the thermal insulation of a house made of aerated concrete will take place as quickly as possible and even the coldest winter will not take you by surprise.

Master of Architecture, graduated from Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.

Aerated concrete is enough warm material. Its thermal performance is approximately three times better than that of hollow ceramic bricks. According to calculations, a wall made of cellular concrete is required to be three times thinner than a brick one, but in practice such a structure often requires additional thermal protection. It is best to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside.

Features of insulation

1. The need for waterproofing. Cellular concrete absorbs moisture well, so when insulating they use high-quality waterproofing materials. An unprotected wall can hold cells inside a large number of water, which, when frozen, will lead to cracking and destruction of concrete;
2. Use of chemical anchors. Aerated concrete does not have high strength, therefore, when using conventional dowels, cracks and chips easily form on its surface, which can lead to the destruction of the wall;
3. The need for conservation. Insulation of an aerated concrete house is carried out several months after the completion of the masonry, so that the material dries out. If the facade insulation is planned to be carried out immediately, then additional measures are required to protect the material from moisture during construction.

Options for additional thermal protection

When installing insulation outside, the service life of the building is extended, the interior space is not affected, and moist air is easily removed from the wall to the street. But with a large building height, the use of the services of industrial climbers is required, which greatly increases the cost of insulation work.

Insulation from the inside can be done at any height of the building, but it is worth remembering that in this case the wall requires vapor barrier and waterproofing. The insulation will last less than in the previous case, and the usable space of the premises will be reduced. This option is undesirable for low-rise construction, since it is considered ineffective by experts.

Materials for thermal insulation of facades

When designing a house, professionals carry out careful calculations required thickness insulation. At self-construction You can take the size approximately, since a house made of aerated concrete itself is warm. Most often, mineral wool and polystyrene foam are used for thermal insulation. Thermal insulation characteristics they are approximately the same.
It is important to choose quality materials, since the service life of the facade structure, the frequency of replacement and the cost of installation depend on this.

Foam insulation

Polystyrene foam costs half as much as mineral wool. The main disadvantage of this material is that it does not allow steam to pass through, the walls of the house do not “breathe”, so the rooms require additional ventilation. In the absence of sufficient air movement, condensation forms in the building, the presence of which leads to the appearance of mold and mildew.

Work with foam plastic should be performed in the following order:

1. Cleaning the wall from dirt;
2. removing all irregularities and protrusions on the wall, if any;
3. treatment with antiseptic compounds to prevent the appearance of fungus and mold;
4. gluing fiberglass mesh near windows to increase strength;
5. applying special glue to the insulation and the wall;
6. gluing foam sheets to the outside of the wall;
7. plastering and painting the surface after the glue has dried.

Additionally, the insulating layer can be secured to the wall with plastic dowels.
To complete the work you will need polystyrene foam, special glue and a notched trowel for its application, plastic dowels and fiberglass mesh.
The service life of polystyrene foam when attached externally in climates with significant differences temperatures - 20 years, more mild conditions the material can last up to 50 years.

When insulating with foam plastic, a question may arise regarding fire safety finishing, but with the help of special flame retardant additives the material can be made non-flammable.
The material does not emit harmful substances during operation and is recyclable, which allows us to talk about its environmental safety.

A more expensive alternative to polystyrene foam is extruded polystyrene foam. It has greater strength, but in most cases its use is unjustified, since for facade works Inexpensive and lightweight materials are preferable. But a significant advantage is the absence of the need to use waterproofing, which allows it to remain among the ranks of facade thermal insulation.

Insulation with mineral wool

The main competitor of polystyrene foam has become mineral wool insulation. The material is used in slabs, since rolled wool can sag over time and stop performing its functions.

Installation of thermal insulation from the outside is carried out in the following order:

1. Cleaning the insulated surface from dirt and dust;
2. leveling if necessary;
3. applying an antiseptic;
4. application of a special adhesive composition;
5. fixing the slabs in the design position;
6. fastening with plastic dowels;
7. installation of fiberglass mesh over the insulation for a strong fit of the plaster;
8. applying an additional layer of glue;
9. After the glue has dried, plaster and paint the wall.

Unlike foam mineral insulation has good vapor permeability and does not require additional ventilation. Some types of material can withstand temperatures up to 1000 degrees Celsius without igniting or starting to melt. Mineral wool can last up to 70 years.

Mineral wool weighs more than polystyrene foam, so it has a greater impact on building foundations. This should be taken into account when bearing capacity designs.
Work with mineral wool must be carried out in special clothing, gloves, and a protective mask. Particles of material coming into contact with the skin cause irritation and itching. The mask prevents them from entering Airways and harm the health of construction workers. This complicates the installation of the material.
Another obstacle to the use of this type of thermal insulation is its cost, which exceeds the price of foam plastic.

Modern methods of insulation

One of the latest developments in the field of thermal insulation materials has become insulated plaster mixtures. Warm plaster can increase the protective characteristics of a wall if it is sufficiently thick.

A layer of material of 15 millimeters replaces 4 centimeters of foam. To improve the properties, sawdust or paper pulp is added to the composition. You can buy a ready-made mixture or prepare it yourself.

Main advantages of the coating:

1. Good sound insulation of the facade;
2. resistance to mold, mildew, insects, rodents;
3. relatively low cost;
4. environmental friendliness and naturalness;
5. Fire safety;
6. lack of additional protective equipment for workers.

Installation is carried out in exactly the same way as with conventional mixtures.
When applied externally, the coating requires additional protection from atmospheric moisture. To do this, a layer is applied on top of the insulated composition ordinary plaster.
This one is best the material is suitable for interior work. Unlike previous types of insulation, plaster does not require vapor barrier or waterproofing.
The material is completely safe and can be used even in children's rooms and medical institutions.

To reduce costs and time for arranging enclosing structures in low-rise and monolithic construction Teplon aerated concrete blocks are actively used. Previously, they were used to create a thermal insulation layer and were located behind a row of facing bricks. Is it necessary to insulate aerated concrete, which has good heat-saving properties?

The preservation of heat inside a closed volume is facilitated by the presence of a stationary air environment. Such air itself is the best insulation. The presence of air-filled pores in the body of the block explains the good thermal insulation qualities that aerated concrete walls have.

Such pores are obtained by adding a blowing agent to the mixture. It begins to act under the influence of high temperature in the autoclave, where the forms filled with the composition are placed. Emerging through the thickness of the material, the gas leaves behind a labyrinth of small hollow volumes.

The specific heat capacity coefficient of an individual block is much lower than that of a façade wall. It increases due to the formation of cold bridges that appear during use. cement-sand mortar. You can avoid their appearance by using a special adhesive composition for walls.

The specific heat capacity coefficient of the block is 3 times lower than that of brick. If we accept that the estimated thickness of a brick wall for central Russia should be about 600 mm, then the thickness of aerated concrete walls outside the building should be at least 200 mm.

Even if both the thickness of the wall and the solution used for fastening the blocks fully comply with the required parameters, it is still recommended to insulate a house made of aerated concrete for the following reasons:

1. Insulation for aerated concrete will reduce the cost of consumed energy resources.
2. The thermal insulator will protect the material of the walls of the house from the outside from the effects of water, frost, wind, thereby extending the life of the house.
3. The heat insulator shifts the dew point outside the premises and walls made of gas silicate, providing normal conditions exploitation of the material.

Dew point is a place in the thickness of a building structure with zero temperature. Many points create an imaginary plane in the wall over its entire area. Water condensate forms here, which, when frozen, gradually destroys stone building materials.

Using insulation on a standard wall allows you to create the same energy saving effect as a house made of 400 mm aerated concrete. Installing an insulator allows you to achieve the same savings for less money, without putting undue pressure on the foundation.

Is it necessary to insulate aerated concrete - watch the video - an alternative opinion:

What's better?

Once the answer has been given whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete, it’s time to answer the next one. What is the best way to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside?

First, let's figure out how wall material works without insulation. Teplon aerated concrete has good vapor permeability.

At positive air temperatures, water vapor produced indoors enters the atmosphere through pores. At negative temperatures the dew point moves inside the wall. Water vapor reaches this point through the pores and freezes, eventually causing the destruction of the blocks.

Let's compare two insulation materials that are radically different in their composition and physical and chemical properties: mineral and polystyrene foam.

Index	Mineral	Expanded polystyrene
Specific thermal conductivity coefficients, units.	0.03	0.026
Service life, years	> 50	> 50
Fire danger	low	high
Chemical passivity	low	high
Biological activity	low	low
Water absorption	high	zero
Vapor permeability	high	zero
DIY installation	available	available

Comparative analytics show that mineral wool is most suitable for “breathing” aerated concrete Teplon . Its vapor permeability is much higher than that of the wall material, which allows water vapor to freely leave interior spaces and a layer of thermal insulation. This ensures a normal microclimate in the room, the safety of the blocks and the heat-saving ability of the insulating material.

Is it possible to insulate such houses with polystyrene foam? It’s possible, but as a result of insulating aerated concrete with polystyrene foam, we get Greenhouse effect. Why is this happening? Zero vapor permeability prevents the release of water vapor into the environment. It accumulates in rooms and gas blocks. Ventilation and airing only partially solve the problem of removing steam from the air in rooms. When the façade is insulated from the outside with penoplex, the humidity of aerated concrete increases by 4-5%, which negatively affects its performance characteristics.

Expanded polystyrene insulation cannot be installed in close proximity to gas ducts.

Outside or inside?

To establish reliable truth, it is necessary to consider what pros and cons of insulating walls made of aerated concrete on either side.

• insulation of aerated concrete from the inside

Index	Plus	Minus	Consequences
Effective area		-	Reduced by 150mm along each external wall
Dew point		-	It moves inside the room, causing an increase in humidity, the development of fungus and mold, and the destruction of walls
Labor costs	+		Can work in all weather conditions, there is no need to install scaffolding
Acquisition costs	+		Possible use of cheaper materials
Finishing	+		It is possible to install plasterboard on top of the insulation, which reduces finishing time and costs
Elimination of cold bridges		-	Not happening

Index	Plus	Minus	Consequences
Effective area	+		Remains unchanged
Dew point	+		Shifts outside the premises and enclosing structures
Labor costs		-	Requires the use of lifting devices, certain weather conditions
Acquisition costs		-	Use of appropriate materials required
Finishing		-	A “wet” or ventilated facade is required on top of the insulation
Elimination of cold bridges	+		Cold bridges do not form

Internal insulation of aerated concrete walls, despite its advantages of reducing costs and labor costs, does not solve the main problem: creating a layer that ensures the preservation of heat and the integrity of the blocks.

Insulating a house from aerated concrete from the outside ensures that it is in a dry, warm state.

Calculate the thickness

Bigger isn't always better. Conducting high-quality insulation gas silicate walls with mineral wool, it is necessary to correctly determine the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. For this purpose, a thermotechnical calculation is performed. You can do it yourself.

All elements of enclosing structures, including plaster, must be included in the calculation. To carry out the calculation you need to know:

• thermal resistance coefficient for the region;
• specific thermal conductivity coefficients of wall materials and their thickness;
• thermal conductivity of the heat insulator.

Initially, we find the thermal resistance coefficients of the available materials by multiplying their thickness in mm by the coefficient. If several materials are used, their indicators are added up. The resulting amount is subtracted from the total coefficient. The remainder is divided by the specific thermal conductivity of the heat insulator. We get its thickness in mm.

The thickness of mineral wool slabs and rolls does not allow for a wide range, so we use a material with a width slightly larger than the calculated one.

Carrying out insulation polystyrene foam boards it is possible to reduce the overconsumption of purchased insulation to almost zero due to the wide range of thicknesses available.

The calculation stage is perhaps the most crucial moment. Specialist assistance may be required. When deciding which insulating material to use, consult with professionals.

We work ourselves

To carry out the work yourself, you need to know how to insulate a house made of aerated concrete. Let's consider 2 thermal insulation technologies: arrangement of a “wet” and ventilated façade.

Both allow you to change the design of the façade of a building beyond recognition. Each will ensure heat retention inside and protection of aerated block walls.

For work, it is best to use dense basalt slabs. Before insulating the walls, it is recommended to carry out thermal insulation work on gas pipelines, water supply and sewerage systems, and the basement of the building.

"Wet" facade

Before properly insulating a house using the “wet” façade technology, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, which includes:

• cleaning walls from residual mortars and dust;
• surface treatment with deep penetration primer;
• installation around the perimeter of a horizontal zero strip with the same width as the thickness of the insulation.

An adhesive composition is used to secure the slabs to a vertical surface. Its preparation is carried out immediately before work by mixing with water according to the attached instructions. After which it is mixed well with a construction mixer.

Application is carried out using a notched trowel over the entire surface of the slab.

After application, the plate is pressed against the wall and fixed. It is recommended that installation be carried out in a checkerboard pattern without the formation of voids. It is necessary to ensure horizontal and vertical laying.

After the mixture has completely hardened (the time is indicated in the instructions for use), the slabs are fastened using umbrella dowels. Their installation must be carried out by recessing 1-2 mm into the insulator layer.

After this, a fiberglass reinforcing mesh is installed, followed by its fixation with glue. After drying, plaster and putty for external use are applied with or without painting. It is possible to apply putty and painted decorative facade plaster.

Ventilated facade

To prepare the surface for the installation of a ventilated facade, it is enough to clean it from dirt, dust, mortar. We install vertical sheathing to create a ventilation gap. Vapor barrier insulation is fixed to the entire surface of the insulated wall. It will not allow water vapor to penetrate into the thickness of the insulator.

We lay the heat insulator in 2 layers, perpendicular to each other. The 2nd layer should overlap the joints of the first. To do this, we install a horizontal wooden sheathing made of timber 50 mm thick and high equal to half thickness of the insulation used.

The width between the beams should be 30 mm less than the width of the slabs. This will allow the slabs to be installed sideways without the use of additional fasteners. The higher the density of the slab, the greater the likelihood of its stable position in the sheathing.

When installing the guides, make sure they are horizontal using a level. We lay the first layer of thermal insulation.

Similarly to the first, we install the sheathing of the second layer. Only vertical. We monitor the verticality to prevent the formation of voids when laying the thermal insulator.

We install, and with the help construction stapler We attach a waterproofing film, which additionally performs the function of wind protection. We nail a counter batten 50 mm wide and high enough for installation of the finishing trim. It uses siding, lining, imitation timber and other sheet, lamella, and panel materials.

It is necessary to insulate aerated concrete. This will ensure comfortable living, reduce heating costs, and extend the life of the structure.