How to insulate the outside walls of a house: the best insulation. The better way to insulate a house from the outside How to insulate a residential building

External thermal insulation of a residential building includes insulation of walls, roof, door and window openings, as well as foundation and sewer pipes. If insulation is carried out partially, it will not give the expected effect and significant savings. Only a full range of work will allow you to create a maximum comfort, even in the most severe frosts. Thanks to modern technologies, it is becoming increasingly easier to insulate a house from the outside with your own hands.

External thermal insulation of the roof is carried out during the construction stage. If the house is already in use, then it is more advisable to insulate the attic and the inside of the rafters. For external work you will need very little: insulation, waterproofing film and lumber for sheathing. Foam plastic, polystyrene foam boards or mineral wool can be used as insulation.

Step 1. Attaching waterproofing

On rafter system A film is laid on top for waterproofing. Work begins from the eaves: the film is fixed along the roof horizontal stripe, fixing its edges with staplers to the wood. The second strip is laid overlapping, and construction tape is glued along the seam. The film is laid loosely, with sagging up to 2 cm between the rafter beams.

Step 2. Installation of wooden sheathing

A sheathing is made from 10x10 cm timber and cross slats on top of the film. The beams are nailed at a distance of 30-50 cm, depending on the type roofing. The vertical rows should align with and attach to the rafter beams. All wooden elements must first be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Step 3. Laying thermal insulation

Insulation is tightly laid in the cells of the sheathing. For cold regions, laying in 2 layers is recommended, and the insulation should not protrude above the beams. All gaps that formed during installation must be carefully foamed, otherwise it will leak through them. warm air.

Step 4. Installation of roofing

Sheathing boards are nailed onto the beams protruding from the heat-insulating layer. Then, if polystyrene foam boards are chosen as insulation, proceed to the installation of the roof. If the insulation was carried out with mineral wool, cover it first protective film and then apply the finishing coat.

The procedure for insulating walls

The process of insulating walls is the longest, because the working area is quite large. The whole process is divided into three stages - surface preparation, laying insulation and finishing. The facade can be tiled, decorative plaster or made ventilated.

For insulation you will need:

thermal insulation material;
beams or aluminum profiles;
building level;
drill;
self-tapping screws;
primer;
vapor barrier membrane;
cement mortar;
finishing material.

Step 1. Preparatory work

The walls are cleaned of peeling paint, plaster, whitewash, wires and external switches are removed, lighting- anything that can interfere with work. Brick and concrete surfaces check using a level, seal unevenness and cracks with a solution. Before insulating the walls, it is advisable to replace or insulate the windows and seal the joints around the perimeter of the openings. Wooden walls be sure to remove dust and moss, and then cover with 1-2 layers of antiseptic primer.

Step 2. Installation of the sheathing

The next step is performed if the insulation is mineral wool. For polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam boards and polystyrene foam, the sheathing is not installed. Assemble the sheathing frame from 60x80 mm timber or special aluminum profiles. The timber must be well dried, without dents, bends, or traces of mold. Before installation, it is impregnated with an antiseptic primer mixture.

The beams are nailed to wooden walls; they are secured to concrete or brick walls using anchor dowels. The distance between the sheathing posts should be less than the width of the insulation by a couple of centimeters. This will allow you to insert the material as tightly as possible and avoid the formation of cracks.

Step 3. Attaching the thermal insulation layer

Mineral wool slabs are inserted between the beams, being careful not to deform the corners. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer should not exceed the thickness of the beams. In cold regions it is recommended to install double layer insulation, selecting the appropriate thickness of the timber.

Polyurethane foam boards and polystyrene foam are fastened differently. First, a stop bar is screwed along the wall, 10-15 cm away from the ground. The planks are overlapped together and connected at the corners with a special profile. Foam boards are applied to the wall, resting the bottom edge against the bar. Each plate is fixed to the wall with fasteners with caps. In the second row of insulation, the slabs must be shifted so that the seam falls in the middle of the bottom sheet.

Step 4. Finishing work

A fiberglass reinforcing mesh is glued onto polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam sheets. After this, decorative plaster is mixed and the walls are finished. Instead of plaster, you can tile the walls. The use of mineral wool implies the arrangement of a ventilated façade, although individual species mineral wool can also be plastered.

A polyethylene film or special film is fixed on top of the mineral wool. windproof membrane. Fix it to the wall surface using a stapler. Then a horizontal sheathing of boards is nailed onto the timber sheathing. You need to leave a small gap between the boards. After this, an end strip is installed along the outer perimeter of the house and the walls are sheathed with siding.

Insulating the outer part of the foundation prevents heat leakage in the basement, reduces the formation of condensation on the basement walls, and protects against dampness and mold development. Perlite bitumen slabs, sheets of polyurethane foam and expanded polystyrene, foam glass, as well as sand and expanded clay are used as insulation.

Step 1. Waterproofing the foundation

It is most convenient to waterproof the foundation during the construction of the house, otherwise you will have to dig a trench around the perimeter of the building. The foundation area is cleared of soil, a primer with high adhesion is applied, and the surface is allowed to dry. Next, the foundation needs to be covered with two layers liquid waterproofing. To do this, use either a polymer mastic or a two-component cement mortar with a rapid hardening effect. The layers should be uniform, without gaps.

Video - Foundation waterproofing

Step 2. Attaching the insulation

The next stage is performed 5-7 days after applying the waterproofing. To attach the thermal insulation layer, glue is used, bitumen mastic or mushroom dowels. Insulation boards are lubricated with an adhesive solution and applied to the surface of the foundation. The seams are made as tight as possible, and excess glue is removed immediately. After covering the entire area, a reinforcing mesh is glued on top of the insulation.

Step 3. Filling the foundation

Apply to the reinforcing mesh cement plaster and level the surface. On the protruding part of the foundation you can make decorative finishing, for example, a “fur coat” from the same solution. After this, the trench is covered with sand, expanded clay or small slag, sprinkled with earth on top and compacted. To avoid erosion, it is recommended to make a blind area with a width of 1 to 1.2 m. In areas where the groundwater level is too high, it is additionally required to equip a drainage system.

When thoroughly insulating a residential building, you cannot ignore the veranda and other extensions. The wall and adjacent structures are unprotected, so Substantial part heat comes out. Many verandas are built on columnar foundations, leaving space between the base of the extension and the ground, which also increases heat loss.

Thermal insulation closed veranda is in many ways similar to insulating a balcony or loggia. First, the outer walls of the extension are cleaned and leveled. A trench 40-50 cm deep is dug along the perimeter, the space between support pillars are closing brickwork or slate sheets. Foam plastic is glued to the slate, covered with a reinforcing mesh and plastered cement mortar. After the plaster has dried, the trench is filled in and compacted.

Then the surface of the walls is primed and the insulating material is attached using glue or disc dowels. Areas adjacent to doors and window openings coated with sealant. The thermal insulation is covered from above either with a sheathing of boards or a reinforcing mesh, and then the walls of the veranda are finished.

Thermal insulation of pipelines

Every house has water supply, sewerage and heating pipes. Many of them are located outside the house and require mandatory insulation. The following materials are used for their thermal insulation:

foiled mineral wool;
foamed polyethylene;
basalt cylinders;
penoizol;
polyurethane foam.

It is especially important to properly insulate the sections of pipes at the exit from the soil and the entrance to the wall of the house.

There are two ways to do this.

Option one: install a protective box around the pipeline and fill it with insulation.
Option two: cover the pipes with heat-insulating material and wrap them on top plastic film. The film should be secured at the joints with construction tape.

When insulating walls and pipelines entering them, it is necessary to ensure a tight and reliable fit of the surfaces; it is best to foam the insertion point.

If all surfaces are insulated according to the rules, the effect will be noticeable almost immediately. Usually external thermal insulation it is enough to always keep the house warm and comfortable. Internal insulation It is performed only when for some reason it is not possible to perform it outside.

Video - How to insulate a house with polystyrene foam

As soon as we decide to insulate the house, a huge pile of questions appears in our heads:

How to insulate walls?
How to insulate walls?
Which is better to insulate, outside or inside?
Will the house become warmer, and won’t I be throwing money away?

In this article I will try to answer all these questions in as much detail as possible, and also talk about the currently popular materials for insulation.

How to properly insulate the walls of a house, outside or inside

Try asking any builder how best to insulate the walls of a house, outside or inside? The answer will be obvious. Everyone knows that it is necessary to insulate walls from the outside, and resort to thermal insulation of walls from the inside only in extreme cases. But at the same time, not everyone knows why thermal insulation of walls from inside the house is so undesirable.

Let's try to figure it out. The diagram shows three states of the house wall, with insulation on the outside, on the inside, and without insulation at all:

In ordinary human language, the dew point is the place where water vapor turns into water, thereby creating condensation.

If you look at the diagram, you can see that to the left of the dew point there is a positive temperature, and to the right - a negative one.

When insulating from the inside:

The wall remains unprotected by home heat, since the heat barrier made of insulation will not allow it to pass into the wall. So she's in winter period will be significantly exposed to frost, constant moisture, but it won’t have time to dry, since we blocked the path from the inside with insulation to the heat that previously protected the wall.
At the dew point, condensation collects (water vapor in the air is converted into water droplets), this point will be as close as possible to the room, which means that the formation of moisture in this place will be maximum. As already mentioned, the insulation from the inside will interfere with the natural drying of the wall.
The constant formation of condensation, without natural drying, can lead to the appearance of various types of fungi and mold on the wall. Don’t console yourself with the thought that the fungus is behind the insulation and nothing bad will happen. Mold and various kinds of green-black formations on the wall have a detrimental effect not only on appearance, but also on the health of the residents of such a house.
If you look at the diagram, you can see that even without insulation, on a wall with inside there will be less moisture than with insulation from the inside.

When insulating from outside:

From the street side, the wall is protected by insulation from the cold, and given the insulation technology, from moisture, and from the room side - by home heat, which warms up the wall sufficiently and, even in cases of various types of condensation and moisture absorption by the wall, will contribute to its rapid drying.
We move the dew point away from the room towards the street, which means that we also move the condensation away from the room.
Insulating the outside will significantly preserve warmth and comfort in your home.

I think it has now become clear to everyone why everyone refuses to insulate the walls of the house from the inside, and more and more often resort to insulation from the outside. And it is necessary to thermally insulate the walls on the side of the room only if there is no other way out.

How to properly insulate walls with expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) from the outside

I described in detail about insulating walls with polystyrene foam in one of the previous articles. Here I will mention some main points.

Preparing the wall for installation of insulation

The first thing you need to do before insulating the walls with polystyrene foam or EPS is to clean the outside walls of the house from dirt, dust and, last but not least, level them. After this, they must be primed if you use glue to install the insulation.

If there are significant holes in the wall that you cannot level with glue, then after installing the insulation, a void may remain between the polystyrene foam board and the wall. And this is extremely undesirable, because even a light blow or push on the insulation in the place where the hole is can deform it or break it.
If during the insulation process you encounter a small bump, it will be difficult for you to glue the polystyrene foam sheet in that place tightly to the wall.

Installation of polystyrene foam and EPS on the wall

Expanded polystyrene, as a rule, is glued to the wall using a special adhesive for polystyrene foam boards, and sometimes with special “fungi”.

In the case of insulation of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), it is necessary to make the surface on which the glue will be applied rough. There are no such problems with polystyrene foam, the glue glues it well without additional processing, and EPS - with more smooth surface, so it needs to be processed.

Very often, for reinforcement, polystyrene foam is attached simultaneously with glue and “fungi”, which is the most reliable and correct solution.

After installing the insulation, as a rule, the outside walls are plastered or lined with facing bricks.

Insulation with polystyrene foam using wooden slats

There is another type of installation of polystyrene foam boards - using a frame made of slats or other suitable material.

Slats are mounted to the wall, the thickness of which should not be less than the thickness of the insulation, or even better, it should be larger to create a ventilated space between the polystyrene foam and the cladding. The distance between the slats is chosen so that the polystyrene foam boards are tightly inserted between them without falling out.

This type of installation is acceptable if you do not plaster or line the walls with brick, but cover them with siding, for example. In this case, the slats will also become the basis for attaching facing materials.

How to properly insulate external walls with mineral wool

Another popular insulation for house walls is mineralo. cotton insulation.

Wall insulation with mineral wool differs from wall insulation polystyrene foam boards, primarily due to the characteristics of the insulation materials themselves.

Mineral wool, unlike expanded polystyrene, the insulation is not rigid enough, so installation of mineral wool is carried out, as a rule, using the frame method. But if the cotton insulation is of sufficient density, then builders also do not hesitate to install it with glue.

A frame is constructed from slats or small bars, and mineral wool is laid or rolled between them.

If the wall is concrete or brick, the bars are attached to the wall using dowel nails. Well, if the wall of the house is wooden, then use self-tapping screws.
Additionally, you can secure the mineral wool with “fungi” so that it does not roll down.

Since cotton insulation absorbs moisture very well, it will be necessary to provide waterproofing on top of the insulation. Without this, mineral wool will absorb moisture from the street and you can forget about the insulation effect.

It is also advisable to build, more or less reliable protection from various rodents by installing metal strips along the edges of the wall.

When facing walls from the outside with brick, insulation is placed between the main wall and the facing wall, and these two walls are connected with special bonds that pierce the mineral wool and at the same time hold it inside the wall, preventing it from rolling down in the future.

Insulation of external walls with polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is the most modern look insulation, but also one of the most expensive. There are many advantages to insulating walls with polyurethane foam:

after application it expands, filling all depressions, crevices, etc.
at a certain density, vapor permeability is very low, which eliminates additional vapor barrier
has good adhesion, i.e. sticks well to the wall
after hardening it has good mechanical strength
good heat and sound insulating properties

Of course, every coin has two sides, and here too, there are plenty of disadvantages:

low-density polyurethane foam has good vapor permeability, which must be taken into account when insulating.
low fire resistance
expensive material
Spraying is recommended to be applied by professionals, which practically eliminates insulation with your own hands
aging of polyurethane foam over time, with deterioration of thermal insulation properties

It is better to trust the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside with polyurethane foam professional workers using funds personal protection, since during the spraying process dangerous toxic substances are released.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of cottages, garages. Experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. We also have experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and many other things that I don’t have time for :)

Insulating a house from the outside is, on the one hand, a fairly simple procedure that you can handle on your own, even without any experience. But, on the other hand, this operation raises a lot of questions, and also requires strict adherence to technology, otherwise the result will not meet your expectations. Therefore, below I will describe to you several ways to perform external insulation as efficiently as possible and without damage to the structure.

Methods of external insulation

Many people who are faced with insulation for the first time do not know how best to place thermal insulation from the inside or outside. According to SNiP 3.03.01-87, in private houses, for a number of reasons, external thermal insulation should be performed:

if you place the heat insulator from the inside, the walls will freeze even more than before insulation. Moreover, a heat insulator will form in the space between the wall and the insulation;
It is impossible to provide thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside, resulting in insulation that is inadequate;
Internal insulation reduces living space.

Thus, the answer to the above question is unequivocal - internal insulation performed only in cases of extreme necessity.

So, if you decide to insulate the outside of your house with your own hands, you will need dry thermal insulation material in the form of slabs or mats for these purposes. As a rule, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is used as insulation. With their help, you can insulate the facade in several ways:

wet facade – the technology consists of gluing insulation and applying plaster on top of it. This method widespread due to its relative cheapness. Its disadvantage is the low strength of the facade and fragility, compared to other finishing methods;

curtain façade– is a frame to which facade materials are attached (siding, lining, facade, etc.). The insulation is located in the space between finishing material and a wall. This finish is more durable, but at the same time costs more;
cladding with thermal insulation blocks, which can be made of wood concrete, foam concrete, gas silicate, etc. I must say that thermal insulation properties These materials are worse than polystyrene foam or, for example, mineral wool. But they have higher strength.

If, for example, you need to insulate an old wooden or country house frame house, That this method insulation is the best solution. Moreover, block insulation can be combined with other heat insulators.

Everyone must decide how and with what to insulate the house from the outside, depending on the situation, financial capabilities and wishes regarding the design of the facade. As you can see, each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Below we will consider in more detail all the insulation options described above.

Wet facade

First of all, I will tell you how to properly create a wet facade. To do this you will need the following materials:

insulation in the form of mats or slabs (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or extruded polystyrene foam);
special dowels for insulation (“fungi”);
glue for insulation;
aluminum perforated corners
fiberglass mesh;
primer;
decorative plaster;
dye.

Before buying a heat insulator, people are always interested in what is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? If the house is brick or made of other non-combustible materials, you can save money and use polystyrene foam. If the structure is wooden, it is necessary to use mineral wool, which will serve as fire protection.

The process of installing insulation with your own hands looks like this:

first of all, you need to prepare the facade for work - dismantle all elements that will interfere with the installation of insulation;
then you need to dilute the glue with water according to the instructions on the package;
Next, the glue is applied to the surface of the insulation using a notched trowel. If the walls are uneven, you can apply glue in “blobs” in the corners and in the center, which will give more opportunity to align the slabs relative to each other.

It should be noted that at this stage it is necessary to ensure a smooth vertical surface of the walls, therefore, in the process of gluing the insulation, you need to use a level and beacons (a horizontally stretched thread along the wall along which each row of heat insulation is aligned);

then the insulation is additionally fixed with dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the wall directly through the slabs or mats. The dowels must be driven in so that they are recessed and do not protrude above the surface of the wall;

The slopes are glued over in the same way, the only thing is that they are not fixed with dowels;
after this, the evenness of the walls should be checked as a rule; if necessary, individual areas can be floated;
after that for everything external corners perforated aluminum corners are glued;
then the screw caps are covered with glue;
The next step is gluing the mesh. To do this, you need to use the same glue that is applied with a spatula to the surface of the insulation. A mesh is immediately applied to the treated surface and a spatula is passed over it, as a result of which it is embedded in the adhesive composition.

I note that the mesh must first be cut into sheets of the required length, taking into account the fact that it should be overlapped and turned over at the corners;

after drying, the glue is reapplied to the surface of the walls thin layer. In order for the composition to lay down evenly, the solution must be made more liquid than for gluing;
when the glue has dried, the surface is treated with a primer using a paint roller. The composition is applied in two passes;

After the soil has dried, decorative plaster is applied to the surface and leveled with a fine trowel. When the composition begins to set, the plaster is rubbed with sandpaper in a circular or reciprocating motion;
the final stage is painting. There is nothing complicated in this procedure - the roller must be dipped into a bath of paint and then treated with it on the wall. The paint is applied in two layers.

This completes the work. It should be noted that using this technology it is possible to insulate not only a private house, but also an apartment.

Curtain facade

Making a curtain façade on your own is no more difficult than a wet one. To do this, you need to prepare the following materials:

insulation in the form of mats or slabs;
metal profile or wooden beam for mounting the frame;
adjustable brackets;
vapor barrier film;
dowels for insulation;
finishing material for the facade.

Many people are sure that the cheaper the heat insulator, the better. However, the same mineral wool or polystyrene foam comes in different qualities. For example, cheap mineral wool can be exposed to moisture, and polystyrene foam can easily ignite and sustain combustion, so it is better to use materials from well-known brands, even if they are not the cheapest.

Insulation instructions look like this:

After preparing the facade, you must first carry out installation. There are quite a lot of options for its design and placement of insulation in it. Most often, racks are mounted on brackets, between which mats or slabs are placed.
It must be said that installation of the frame is the most critical stage, since the evenness of the walls depends on it. Therefore, all racks must be placed in the same vertical plane;

then insulation is laid between the racks and fixed with dowels;
then a vapor barrier film is attached over the insulation. As a rule, it is fixed on a frame. To do this, you can use slats that are mounted horizontally, with the film located between them and the racks;
At the end of the work, the frame is sheathed facade material, after which additional elements are installed - ebbs, corners, etc.

That's it for the montage. curtain façade completed with your own hands.

Cladding with thermal insulation blocks

If you need to insulate an old, for example, log house, then it is better to build additional walls for it, which will also serve as insulation. Of course, this will require more time and effort, but the result is well worth the expense.

There are quite a lot of options for covering walls. The most common materials are:

blocks from Sibit (it would be more correct to say aerated concrete, since Sibit is the name of the enterprise, which people began to call the material it produces);
wood concrete blocks - made from wood shavings, mixed with cement;
gas silicate blocks - resemble aerated concrete, however, their composition is based on lime. Besides, this material obtained by autoclave;
made of polystyrene concrete – contain foam granules in their structure;
from expanded clay concrete – contain expanded clay granules in their structure.

So that you can decide on the materials yourself and understand, for example, why a gas silicate block is better in comparison, for example, with aerated concrete, below I will provide a table with the main characteristics of these materials:

As we see, some materials benefit in strength, others – in thermal conductivity. Eg, gas silicate block more durable than wood concrete, but at the same time it is more heat-conducting.

Certainly, important factor The choice is also the price of the material. Arbolite blocks cost about 4,000 rubles per cubic meter, and polystyrene concrete material costs about the same. The price of gas silicate is slightly cheaper - about 3,000 rubles per cubic meter.

The house cladding technology is as follows:

A shallow foundation is laid around the perimeter of the house. On our portal you can find detailed information about the arrangement of such a foundation;
then the foundation is waterproofed with several layers of roofing felt;
then a wall is erected around the perimeter of the house. Since blocks have big sizes, masonry is much easier to do than with brick. However, in any case, it is necessary to ensure that they lie flat and in the same plane, so during the work you need to use a level, plumb lines and beacons;

if wood is veneered Vacation home, after a few rows in facing wall pins are laid, which are pre-hammered into a wooden wall. The pitch of the pins should be about a meter to one and a half meters.

Walls built from heat-insulating blocks require further finishing, for example, plastering. That's why this technology insulation is rarely used. Most often it is used in cases where it is necessary to strengthen and insulate a garden house.

If the same procedure is required for a residential building, you can line it with bricks and place it between the walls mineral mats. Of course, the costs in this case will be much higher, but additional finishing will not be needed, and the building will acquire a solid and presentable appearance.

Here, in fact, are all the options for external insulation of houses that I wanted to introduce you to.

Conclusion

As we found out, there are several methods for effective external insulation of houses, which have their own advantages and disadvantages. Regardless of the technology that is optimal for you, you can cope with this task yourself. The main thing is not to violate the sequence of actions described above and do the work carefully.

See the video in this article for more information. If during the insulation process you encounter any difficulties or some points are not fully clear to you, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

September 7, 2016

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The essence of the question of how to insulate the walls outside in a private house is not only familiarization with the technology this process. Extremely important right choice insulating material. Therefore, before you start insulating your home, you need to carefully study specifications proposed insulation materials and rules for working with them.

To choose the right way to insulate the walls of a house outside, you need to consider the following: important points, such as the climatic conditions of the region at the location of the house, the material from which it is built, the expected finishing, the main purpose of the house. Country house, which is almost never used in the cold season, there is no need to insulate it as carefully as a house or cottage for permanent residence.

Among the many materials offered, choose exactly the insulation for the exterior walls of the house that will be most effective in a particular case. The main technical characteristics of the material must be selected in accordance with the above parameters. These are thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, vapor permeability, strength, biological and chemical stability and Fire safety, as well as high density insulation.

The thickness of the selected material is determined according to the instructions and recommendations of GOST and SNiP. This takes into account the area of the house, the power of the heating system, the size and number of window and doorways and some other criteria. When thinking about how to insulate the walls of a house outside, you should remember the following types wall insulation:

extruded polystyrene foam (EPS);
Styrofoam;
mineral wool;
basalt slabs;
cellulose insulation;
liquid polyurethane foam.

Almost all insulation for the external walls of a house, except the last one, does not require special skills when working with them. The technology for their installation is quite simple and understandable to the average homeowner.

Preparing for wall insulation

To insulate a house from the outside with your own hands, you need to prepare the following set of tools:

plumbs and beacons;
construction tape;
building level;
technical knife;
electric drill or hammer drill;
drills and drills of the required size;
hammer;
screwdriver;
brushes and rollers.

Insulation from outside wooden house or any other begins with surface preparation. The outer walls of the house must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and small debris. If the existing plaster or thermal insulation has become unusable, it is better to remove it by clearing the surface of the walls to the base. The prepared wall must be primed using a deep penetration compound.

A special mesh will help to evenly lay the insulation for the walls outside. To install it, a thick thread is stretched along the upper edge of the wall. Plumb lines are hung from it. Horizontal threads are stretched between them, parallel to the top thread. This mesh will help to evenly arrange the frame and lay the insulation.

Key points of insulation work

First, the wall is covered with a vapor barrier material. Then with insulation, on top of which it is laid windproof film. This film helps remove moisture from the wooden wall and prevents its penetration from the outside. Final stage- finishing. This could be decorative plaster, siding or other finishing material.

The insulating coating of the external walls of the house is a multi-layer structure. Its main components located on the surface of the walls are:

plaster;
fixing primer;
adhesive composition with high adhesive properties;
the insulation itself;
reinforcing putty or special glue;
polymer or mineral decorative plaster;
acrylic paint.

Besides adhesive composition For fastening the insulation the following are used:

plastic dowels;
metal cores with plastic insulated heads.

Insulation in this way provides reliable protection from cold, moisture, and steam. Wherein total weight The structure is relatively small. Possibilities finishing practically unlimited. The main thing is that the insulated wall is absolutely flat and can withstand a load of about 35 kg per 1 sq. m. When installing such insulation, the main point is protection inner layers from moisture.

Another method of insulation is a hinged ventilated facade. In this case, an air cushion (gap) of at least 6 cm thick must be left between the insulation and the wall of the house. The facing material in this case is attached to a base of load-bearing profiles and brackets. This method does not require preliminary leveling of the walls.

Penoplex is a very easy-to-use, high-quality insulating material. To insulate external walls, penoplex grade “31” or “35” is usually used. The prepared walls are covered with fresh plaster mixture, onto which foam sheets are glued. They need to be aligned using the mesh described above and lightly pressed to improve adhesion.

Additional protective layer plaster is applied over the insulation. The next layer is a mesh made of alkali-resistant fiberglass. When upper layer The plaster is dry and the walls are primed. Now you can start finishing work.

It is not difficult to insulate the outside of a house with polystyrene foam with your own hands; video material found on the Internet will help you see with your own eyes all the intricacies of this process.

Insulation with sandwich panels

Some homeowners still doubt whether it is possible to insulate the outside of the house using so-called “sandwich panels”. However, this material is becoming increasingly popular. This is three layer building construction, in which the insulation is located between two sheets of cladding. A house covered with sandwich panels does not require additional finishing. The panels themselves are resistant to corrosion, weathering and mechanical damage. Installation of this material is facilitated by its low specific gravity.

To install wall sandwich panels you will need:

sealants;
flashings;
corners;
fastening material.

Sandwich panels are attached to the wall of the house using a frame made of wood or reinforced concrete. The joining of the panels to each other is ensured by a tongue-and-groove connection. Seams and joints are additionally sealed with special mastic, tape, gaskets or polyurethane foam. It is poured into the end seams polyurethane foam or mineral wool is laid. There are special strips on top. Around window and door openings, at corners and joints with ground floor corner panels are placed or corner profiles are used.

Insulation under siding

Siding is one of the most popular and inexpensive modern materials for finishing a private house. To carry out this finishing correctly, you must first select insulation for the outside walls of the house under the siding. This is also necessary in order to increase the service life of the building and its exterior finishing. The main criteria when choosing an insulation material are the design of the house and the cost of the insulation. Most often the following is installed under the siding:

fiberglass;
penoplex;
polyester foam;
mineral wool.

Many homeowners prefer to insulate the outside of the house with mineral wool under the siding. This is a reliable, durable material with a small specific gravity. Mineral wool has such valuable characteristics as:

environmental friendliness;
thermal conductivity;
moisture resistance;
noiseproofing.

Installing mineral wool, subject to certain rules, will not be difficult.

Installation of insulation under siding can be carried out in a budget way or using inter-frame insulation. Both options require preliminary preparation.

First, the outer surface of the walls is prepared. They need to be cleaned of old coatings, dust and debris. Wooden walls need to be treated with an antiseptic or treatment machine oil. After this, the wood should dry out. Therefore, it is better to do the work in warm, dry weather.

The treated, dried walls are covered with an overlap of waterproofing (from 10 to 15 cm). It is secured with a construction stapler. Tape is applied at the connection points.

Next, the sheathing is mounted on the walls. This could be ready metal structure or homemade from wooden slats or bars. The distance between the slats is determined by the width of the insulation. It must be laid tightly without any voids. The sheathing is mounted perpendicular to the intended installation of insulation.

Soft insulation is cut and placed between the sheathing elements. Special “fungi” are used to secure it. Solid tile insulation begins to be laid from the bottom up. The bottom slabs are laid 10 cm above the top edge of the plinth. This insulation is attached using assembly adhesive.

A windproofing coating is laid on top of the insulation. It is attached with a stapler to the sheathing (a step of at least 50 cm) with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The connecting seams are taped.

Next, another sheathing is installed, onto which the siding is attached. The elements of the upper sheathing are attached with a screwdriver to the lower structure perpendicularly. This creates a ventilated gap of 0.2 to 3 cm, depending on the thickness of the beams. The second sheathing is mounted from elements of a smaller cross-section. Its main purpose is to press the wind insulation against the insulation, and all structural elements against the wall surface. To protect against rodents, a fine-mesh metal mesh is placed over the foam-type insulation.

Now you can attach the siding - vinyl or metal. Vinyl panels are cheap but less durable. They require careful care. The high price of metal panels is fully justified by their strength, durability and reliability.

Solving the question of how to insulate wooden house outside with your own hands, begins with the construction of a primitive sheathing from wooden planks. They are installed vertically, the step between them is equal to the width of the insulation. The insulation layers are attached to the frame slats using special plastic dowels.

Insulating a private house from the outside is a simple process. The main thing is to choose the right insulation and other materials, prepare everything you need in advance and strictly follow the instructions during work. A reliably insulated house acquires additional strength.