Drawing of a knife sharpener with your own hands, dimensions. DIY knife sharpening device - instructions! Conditions for proper sharpening of knives

Often, ordinary abrasive stones are used to sharpen knives at home. But their use requires special practice, since if the angle for sharpening is incorrect, the result will be disastrous. The blade will not have proper sharpness, which will require additional processing.

Rules for sharpening knives

Before you start making homemade device To sharpen knives, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of specialists. At the first stage it is necessary to determine the angle between working part blades and whetstone. This can be done individually for each model.

The knife should be positioned strictly perpendicular to the direction of the block. The angle in this case can be equal to half the sharpening. This is due to the fact that during processing, grooves are formed on the surface of the blade. They appear due to exposure to abrasive components. With minimal tool grit, they will be negligible. But there will also be a small degree of impact on the knife.

In addition to this factor, when sharpening a knife with your own hands, you should consider:

the average sharpening angle is 20-25 degrees;
processing is performed from the beginning of the blade;
To control the sharpening angle, you can paint over part of the blade with a marker. In this way, the actual area of influence can be controlled.

It should be remembered that the deformation along the entire length of the working blade will be non-uniform. Therefore, when sharpening with your own hands, the “point of reference” should be the bluntest part of the knife.

The grooves formed due to the impact of the bar must be strictly perpendicular to the line of the knife. This is the main condition correct sharpening.

Selecting whetstones for sharpening knives

Main component homemade machine There will be a whetstone for sharpening. This is an abrasive material that, when applied to the blade, thins it, increasing its sharpness. Therefore, before choosing a design, you should choose the right bars.

The main indicator of the bar is the grain size, but the dimensions should also be taken into account. Ideally, the length of the tool should be no less than the length of the knife. This will ensure uniform processing and reduce the likelihood of defects.

To sharpen knives with your own hands you will need following types bars:

high grain size. With their help, primary processing occurs, the shape of the blade is corrected;
medium grit. They are designed to remove grooves formed during the first operation;
whetstone or leather belt rubbed with GOM paste. This stage is called polishing or finishing the blade.

The main task of drawing up a design diagram is correct location bars. Therefore, we will consider several options for fixing them relative to the knife blade.

For sharpening ordinary kitchen knives Two types of bars will be enough - with high and medium grain size. In addition to them you will need a touchstone.

A simple version of the machine

The simplest version of the machine design consists of two pairs wooden slats, connected to each other using adjustable screws. A block is attached between these components.

The main condition for the manufacture of this structure is stability. While working, it should not change its location on the desktop. For better fixation of the beam, it is recommended to provide support strips located between the wooden components.

Despite the ease of making it yourself, this machine has a number of disadvantages:

the blade is manually adjusted relative to the stone. At long work it is not always possible to control the sharpening angle;
an additional fixation unit will be required. Since the structure must be stable, it must be firmly fixed on the desktop;
During operation, the ties may loosen, thereby changing the location of the bar.

The main advantage of this scheme is its ease of manufacture. The design is suitable for sharpening kitchen knives at home. As additional components you will need a touchstone.

The thickness of the wooden slats may vary. In fact for self-made For a similar design, you can use any available materials.

Manual sharpening machine with whetstone adjustment

For achievement best result It is recommended to take drawings of factory tool models as a basis. Their difference from the instructions described above lies in the rigid fixation of the knife, but this will require great effort to manufacture.

The design consists of a support table on which the knife blade is mounted. A screw stand is installed in a vertical position. A bar with a slot is attached to it. The whetstone is mounted on a guide rod. The sharpening angle is changed by moving the slotted bar along the screw post.

Features of operating a machine of this type:

The sharpening angle is set with high precision. Its change depends on the thread pitch of the rack;
Instead of a block, you can use sandpaper. For this purpose, a base is made of plexiglass. A hole is made along it for installation on the guide rod. Sandpaper is glued to the surface of the plexiglass;
It is best to make the supporting base wide. This will make it possible to secure it with clamps on any tabletop.

The main problem with using this design is the long adjustment of the sharpening angle. This may affect the speed of work completion if several types of knives are processed. Each of them requires a long setup of the machine.

To increase the quality, you can use water or oil. They are applied to the abrasive surface, thereby reducing the impact of chipped stone particles on the blade.

Sharpening machine with adjustable knife position

An alternative option for manufacturing the machine is to change the position of the knife relative to the stone. In general, the design is in many ways similar to that described above, but much simpler to manufacture.

A movable fastening block for a pin with a stone is installed on the base. Two clamps are mounted on the same plane. One of them will be persistent, and the second will be adjustable. By changing the distances between the clamps you can adjust the sharpening angle.

The main disadvantage of this design is the wear of the bar in one place. To solve this problem, it is recommended to make a long pin to adjust the position of the edge relative to the blade.

In addition to the schemes described above, there are a lot of sharpening machines that you can make yourself. When choosing optimal model should be based on the actual availability of available materials. It is also recommended to analyze factory machines. Often they are the basis for the manufacture of a unique design.

Every housewife dreams of sharp knives. It is difficult to do without such cutting tools in the kitchen. Not everyone succeeds in sharpening correctly: it seems like you tried your best, but the knife still doesn’t cut well or quickly becomes dull. Often the cause of this is improper sharpening. You can get out of this situation if you use a knife sharpening machine.

Modification of sharpeners

Sold in stores a large number of all kinds of devices and machines, ranging from the simplest to automatic machines. However, many of them either do not bring sharpening to ultimate goal, or are too expensive. All machines can be divided into three categories:

superhard;
hard;
soft.

To sharpen the tool, you need to manually move it along the abrasive, achieving desired effect. Many people use this method, but not everyone succeeds. The reason is that for proper sharpening, the sharpening angle must be strictly observed. It depends on the hardness and volume of the material being cut.

For the tools below The following angles in degrees must be maintained:

razors - 8-12;
blades for cutting fillets - 10-15;
kitchen knives - 15-20;
hunting tools - 20-25;
heavy knives (for example, machetes) - 30-50.

The next thing you need to pay attention to when sharpening knives is the grain size of the abrasive material. To sharpen very dull knives, abrasives with coarser grains are used. This will help remove excess metal faster. When leveling the surface, use medium emery stones, and for grinding you need very fine grain. Usually On sanding wheels and bars the abrasive size is indicated in numbers:

300-350 - very large, used for pruning;
400-500 - average, allows for basic sharpening;
600-700 - shallow, you can level the blade on it;
1000-1200 - very fine, with its help it is possible to polish the tool.

To sharpen a knife by hand, place a block or an emery wheel on a table or workbench and secure it. Cutting tool hold the abrasive with the blade facing away from you, position it at the desired angle. At first they use a protractor. Subsequently, when certain experience appears, it will be possible to do without it.

They begin to sharpen the blade, strictly ensuring that the angle is maintained. This kind of work requires attention and experience, so it may not work out right away. It will be much more convenient to do it if you make your own device for sharpening knives. A self-assembled product will cost much less.

Use of machines

The most simple device, which can be made at home, is a wooden corner. A block will be placed in it. The base is made in the form of a box, the size of which is selected according to the abrasive. The second side of the corner has the same shape and is mounted in a vertical position. To make the device more stable, the base is connected to a wide board.

A block is inserted vertically into the device. In this position the angle is 0°. To create the desired slope, the lower edge of the abrasive begins to be moved away from the vertical, the angle is measured with a protractor. To prevent the block from “moving”, a stop is placed at the bottom (you can simply screw in a screw). To sharpen the blade, move it along the sandpaper strictly in vertical plane. For fine processing and grinding, the bars are changed. Since the stone is ground unevenly, they constantly need to be leveled using harder stones. Using sandpaper eliminates such hassle.

To do this, you need to take sandpaper with coarse, medium and fine grain, as well as a leather belt. A block of wood is cut to the size of the abrasive and processed sandpaper. One blank is made from a leather belt. Each face of the bar is numbered, and numbers are placed near the top and bottom edges. A tape with a large grain is glued to the plane numbered 1, 2 - with a medium grain, 3 - with a fine grain, 4 - leather from a belt.

The tapes are attached indented from the edge. Thanks to this, the numbers will be visible, and the block will fit into the grooves of the box. They begin to sharpen the blade from 1 or 2 and then move on to the next edges. As the sandpaper wears out, it is cut off with a knife and a new one is glued on. Compared to bars, paper is much cheaper.

This device can be modified. Vertical rack attached to the base through a hinge so that it can tilt back, increasing the sharpening angle. On the side where the stand tilts, a stop is placed, for example, two plates fastened together through longitudinal slots with a wing bolt or nut. In this case, the lower edge of the bar will be motionless.

Convenient designs

Although the designs described above have a number of advantages, they have one significant drawback- you need to constantly monitor the vertical of the blade, and this is tiring. It is much easier to work with an electric machine for processing kitchen tools.

Emery, as the device for sharpening knives is called, makes the task much easier. The blade is brought to the circle so that it is directed against its rotation. But even in this case, it is necessary to monitor the sharpening angle.

To make it easier to work, you can make wooden stand. It consists of two parts: the base and the corner itself. The support helps raise the knife to the desired height; another workpiece with an inclined platform is placed on it; it is this that will give the necessary tilt to the blade. You can make several such corners, they will be designed for different ways sharpening. To fix the guide, you can use nails without heads. They are driven into the base, leaving 10-15 mm, covered with paint, and a corner is placed on top. The painted areas are drilled with a drill of the same diameter as the nails.

The device works well when there is no casing covering the emery stone, but it is not entirely safe. In the case of using protection, you can use another sharpening stand. On the side of the electric sharpener, a wooden block with a vertical slot for the knife is installed. The height is selected so that the angle of the blade being sharpened corresponds to the required condition. The knife is inserted into the cutout and slides along it.

This electric sharpener has a significant drawback - it is difficult to set the sharpening angle. To get rid of it, the design should be complicated. To do this, a three-arm holder with the ability to adjust the angle is installed. It is attached directly to the sandpaper, but can also be used as independent device. To make such a device, you need skills and special machines, and this is not suitable for everyone.

Another disadvantage is that when using an electric knife sharpening machine, the stone is ground down. It will have to be constantly adjusted during operation to make the blade sharp. In addition, with this method, the emery is used irrationally; it has to be changed, throwing it away significant part abrasive

Homemade devices

Some owners use manual grinder for knives with adjustable sharpening angle. The essence of such a device comes down to the fact that one of the elements (knife or abrasive) is in a stationary state, while the other is made to reciprocate. Two groups of such machines can be distinguished:

with fixed abrasive;
with fixed blade.

The first group includes a trolley machine. The abrasive is installed on a flat surface. Treated stone or thick glass can be used as such a surface. To make the holder, a board 2-3 cm thick is cut out, its length should be approximately 1.5 times the abrasive material, the width does not play a decisive role. For best view and a flat surface is treated with a plane and sandpaper. Along the long edges, stops are nailed and glued to provide strength.

Then you should make the wedges. To do this, take the treated board again and cut out a rectangle. Its thickness should be equal height abrasive material, the length approximately corresponds to the width of the holder. To calculate the width of the device, you need to subtract the length of the abrasive and the width of the two stops from the length of the holder.

When assembled, you get the following picture: an abrasive and a wedge should fit on the holder between two stops. After this, the rectangle is cut diagonally, but not from corner to corner, but with a slight indentation, so that triangles with cut off vertices are obtained.

When the wedge and abrasive are placed in the holder, they begin to lightly hit the bases of the triangles with a hammer. These parts must slide over each other, their overall width increases, and the abrasive is clamped. To prevent the holder from moving on the glass, its bottom is covered with thin rubber.

The dolly will allow the knife to move while maintaining a constant angle. The wheels can be anything, you can use bearings, the main thing is that they are smooth. A guide with a blade holder is attached to the trolley. Here too There are two ways to adjust the sharpening angle:

changing the height of the abrasive;
turning the guide with the blade (in this case the cart must have 4 wheels).

In the second option, you can use a rotating mechanism.

Other models

Machine tools in which the tool being processed is stationary have become very popular. A kitchen or other knife is mounted on an inclined platform. Secure fastening obtained by using a magnet; all kinds of clamps (spring or threaded) are also widely used.

A rod is attached to the platform on the opposite side of the knife. It is allowed to use a steel rod with a diameter of 8 mm. The inclination of the platform is selected so that it approximately corresponds to the desired angle of the tool being sharpened. A clamp is attached to the rod, which can be moved if necessary, thereby more accurately setting the angle. A guide moves freely in it - the same metal rod as the rod. For better sliding, a plastic or nylon bushing is inserted into the clamp.

At the other end of the guide (near the tool being sharpened) there are two brackets that are tightened with a nut or wing. A block is inserted into them and secured with a wing or nut.

The machine operates as follows: a blade is placed in the clamps on the inclined platform, the block is tightened with brackets on the guide, and the desired angle is set using the clamp. The angle is measured with a protractor mounted on the blade. The bar begins to make forward movements, processing the entire surface. During grinding, the abrasive is moved in only one direction - from the heel to the blade.

Another machine uses a trapezoid. The long sides are made of steel bars connected to each other wooden blocks. One rod is attached through a bearing to rotary mechanism, the other is a guide along which the block moves freely. The knife stand is installed under the carriage on a flat surface. If the first rod of the trapezoid gets in the way when sharpening the tool, the stand can be raised higher.

Thin paper, such as newspaper, will help determine the quality of sharpening. You need to try to cut strips out of it with quick and smooth movements. If this succeeds, then the blade is sharpened correctly.

Greetings, Samodelkins!
Today I want to show you how you can use the materials that are (or at least should be) in almost every workshop to make an excellent device for sharpening knives evenly.

Initially, the master wanted to buy a ready-made device for sharpening knives in China (namely in the Aliexpress online store), but he thought why not try to make such a sharpener himself. Moreover, the prices for this product from Chinese friends are rather high.

For self-production you will need the following materials and tools:
1. Ordinary board;
2. Sandpaper;
3. Screwdriver;
4. Hammer;
5. Thick electrode 1 pc;
6. Jigsaw;
7. A piece of laminate;
8. Bolts and nuts;
9. Wooden handle;
10. Hex key;
11. Fluoroplastic or textolite (fiberglass).

Let's get down to actually making the sharpener.
First, let's take an ordinary board and cut a piece out of it. Then you need to process the resulting wooden blank, namely, sand it with sandpaper.

It will serve as the base for our homemade sharpening device.
In terms of size, we get it to be 26 cm in length, the width of the workpiece is 6.5 cm, and the height of the wooden base is 2 cm.

You also need to make holes in this board. In total, this part of the future product will have 6 through holes. We drill 2 holes for the stand itself (more on that a little later). Nearby we drill another hole of a smaller diameter, and also on the other side of the board we drill 3 more holes that will serve to attach the pressure plate.

Insert nuts into the holes made.

In the future, these nuts can be placed on glue so that they do not fall out, but for now everything seems to be quite tight.
Then we will start making the guide post itself. The master made it from an ordinary thick electrode. It needs to be bent in half. Next, using a hammer, the author beat off welding electrode all top part and sanded it down. By the way, you can also grind using an ordinary screwdriver. To do this, simply insert the electrode into chuck screwdriver and holding sandpaper in hand, sand the product.

At this stage, we insert the resulting workpiece (guide post) from the electrode into these two holes.
We insert it not at a right angle, but at a slight angle. The guide angle is somewhere between 65 and 70 degrees.

Everything fits quite tightly, but also for greater reliability of our design, in the future it will be possible to attach the guide post with epoxy glue, or with some other glue, or with something else.

But perhaps the master is mistaken and this is not fluoroplastic. Fluoroplastic is most often white and somewhat slippery. Most likely it is textolite or fiberglass. But in essence it’s not that important. The main thing is that this material is quite hard and does not wear off.
From this piece (fluoroplastic or non-fluoroplastic), the author cut out a kind of pressure plate. He made holes in it, as well as small recesses, so that the caps would extend slightly into the depths of the plate.

Then we place this plate on the previously made wooden base. Secure with screws.

The author took the screws with a hex key. The master also made a small hole in the base of the future knife sharpener so that this key would always be in this sharpener.

The whole thing is clamped and they (the screws) are actually not visible on the plate.
But here, the master did not do the countersunk work, since the sharpening part of the tool will not touch this screw.

Next, the author made such a plate from the same fluoroplastic.

In this plate I made 2 holes for the same hexagonal screw.
Next, the whole thing is placed here and pressed with the help of a lamb.

Then the master made just such a guide for the sharpening stones.

The length of the guide is 57 cm. The author made it from an ordinary steel rod. Also cleaned it up. And on one of the ends I put this handle (it looks like it came from an old Soviet file).

You can also strengthen this connection by planting wooden handle from the file to the glue, but it fits in here quite tightly, nothing falls out.

Regarding the attachment of the sharpening stones themselves. The author took a small piece of the clamp, cut it and made holes. As a result, we got corners like this, two identical ones.

And here I put a nut with a thread and a clamping screw.

The master also installed a spring on the guide so that sharpening stones could be changed without unscrewing the nut with the clamping screw.

The author made the sharpening stones themselves, or rather the base for these stones, from an ordinary piece of laminate. Just cutting it into strips.

The width of the strips is 2.5 cm, and the length is about 20 cm.

The pieces of laminate already have ready-made grooves, which is where the corners of the guide part of the device will go.
The author then glued the sandpaper onto the laminate pieces using double sided tape and signed which one is where. And, in fact, this is how it all turned out:

This whole thing is quite easy to set up. Using the groove of the laminate we get into one corner of the guide, and with the help of a spring we press the sharpening stone with the second corner.

All. Nothing falls out anywhere. Everything lies flat and quite tightly.
Let's continue assembling our device. We insert the guide with the sharpening stone attached to it into the hole prepared in advance for it, and you can safely begin the process of sharpening the knife.

The stroke is quite large due to the fact that here the author removed a small chamfer on both sides.

IN household There are always cutting, sawing and planing tools. During the work, the sharpness is lost, and the blades have to be restored. You can give knives and planes to a workshop, but this costs money and takes up extra time. Therefore, home craftsmen prefer to sharpen the tool.

Important! Only blades with a certain degree of hardening can be sharpened. If the cutting part has a hardness above 55 HRC, it cannot be sharpened with improvised tools.

You can buy a device for sharpening knives or other household utensils at the store. Save time, but spend a considerable amount of money - good sharpening is expensive.

By the way, there are different opinions about the name of the knife sharpening device. Emery, whetstone, whetstone, sharpener, musat...

Can these definitions refer to the same item or different products? We will talk about this and how to make such a device yourself in the article.

Since the advent of cutting objects (weapons, knives, axes), man has been looking for a way to restore the sharpness of the edge. In the Bronze and Copper Ages it was easy.

Dull knives on the farm can become not only a reason for bad mood housewife, but also the cause of accidents. Hardware stores have an assortment of tools designed for sharpening knives, but not all of them suit customers. Alternatively, you can make a machine for sharpening knives yourself; the drawings for its manufacture are not difficult for a person who knows how to craft.

Types of stones for processing blades

Before you start making a knife sharpening machine with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with information about its components. Grinding stones, or they may also be called - abrasive stones are one of the decisive factors in achieving excellent result, but not less important role plays the master skill.

Types of whetstones

So to get the perfect sharpening you will have to practice a lot.

Exist the following types stones suitable for sharpening cutting surfaces:

Tools that require water to operate. The advantage of this type whetstone is to save material - the surface of the tool is less susceptible to wear.
Oil stones are similar in structure water stones, but have an oily surface.
Natural stones are made from natural materials. Before making a tool, such a stone undergoes industrial processing.
Artificial stones - artificial materials are used in their production. It is believed that an instrument made from non-natural components is inferior in quality natural materials, but they are also quite cheap.

If desired, you can make a homemade abrasive block. To do this, you need to take flat plexiglass 5 mm thick rectangular shape and with the help double sided tape stick sandpaper on it. This is the easiest way to make a knife sharpener; it is convenient because when the sandpaper wears out, it is easy to replace.

Why is the sharpening angle so important?

The angle between the edges of the blade is called the sharpening angle. Exact observance of a given angle is the main requirement when processing a cutting surface with an abrasive tool, and it is its value that affects the sharpness of the blade.

Using a simple marker you can control the turning angle; just paint over the area being sharpened with it. Uniform erasing of paint indicates good quality blade processing.

Necessary conditions for a sharpening machine

In order to make knives with your own hands, you need to carefully plan the stages of work and draw up drawings. If the master has experience, then he can develop them himself or use ready-made drawings that are offered in specialized literature.

For ideal processing of the cutting surface, the machine must meet the following requirements:

reliable and at the same time not too rigid fixation of the knife in a vice;
compliance with the angle, during the sharpening process the angle must be constant;
The design of the machine must provide for the possibility of changing the sharpening angle.

You can read below about how to make your own blade straightening devices that are in no way inferior to purchased mechanisms.

DIY knife sharpener

The most affordable option for a sharpening device

We are making the fastest version of the device. To do this, you need to prepare 2 pairs of wooden corners, an abrasive block and a protractor to correctly determine the sharpening angle. The dimensions of the bars must be the same. Wooden corners They are fastened together using adjustable screws, and the sharpening block is securely fixed between them at the required angle.

Despite the ease of manufacture, such machines have a number of disadvantages, these include:

the processing angle has to be maintained manually - which is not very convenient during a long processing process;
the need for rigid fixation of the device on the working surface for its stability;
When sharpening, you need to constantly monitor the tension of the ties so that the block does not change its position.

But it should be noted that such simple homemade products They are quite suitable for processing home kitchen knives and do not require large financial investments in production.

Manual sharpener with adjustable stone

This machine is a more complex design, but it is much more convenient to use. The basis for its creation was a model of a machine called the Lansky sharpener.

Lansky sharpener

Advantage similar models is a reliable fixation of the knife blade.

The device is a support table on which the knife is fixed. At the opposite end of the table, a screw stand with a bar is vertically fixed. A guide rod is inserted into this bar, on which an abrasive stone is mounted. By moving the bar along the screw rod, you can change the angle of metal processing.

The advantages of machines with a similar design include:

high processing accuracy;
the possibility of replacing the block with sandpaper glued to plexiglass;
The wide support base allows you to secure the machine on any table.

When operating the machine, the only difficulty lies in the long-term adjustment of the position of the sharpening stone. If processing is planned different types blades, you will have to reconfigure the device each time.

Possibility of adjusting the position of the knife

An alternative to a machine with movable whetstone is a device where it is possible to adjust the position of the knife relative to the block. Basically, its design is similar to the machine with an adjustable bar, a little easier to manufacture.

A movable block is mounted on the base plane to secure the rod with the bar. Clamps are also installed on it, one is adjustable, the other is persistent. Using an adjustable clamp, you can adjust the sharpening angle.

The only drawback of this model is the appearance of wear on the bar in one specific place. This drawback can be eliminated by installing a long pin to adjust the edge relative to the surface being processed.

Each option described above has its own advantages and disadvantages. When making your choice in favor of one model or another, you need to focus on the level of skills and the magnitude of the needs for operating the machine.