Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? Reasons for the lack of flowering in some species and varieties

Heat-loving perennial shrub Hydrangea is native to Japan and first bloomed in the 18th century. Initially, the plant was only indoors, but experts “relocated” the hydrangea to open ground. Hortensia is known as frost-resistant plant, which will delight the eye for many years in a flowerbed in a temperate climate.

Varieties of flowering hydrangea

Today there are many different varieties and types of flowering hydrangea available:

Oakleaf. Brought to temperate latitudes from North America, the advantage of the species is its frost resistance - the plant can withstand temperatures down to -29 degrees. Popular varieties include "Tennessee Clone", "Applause", "Little Honey" and many others, which are characterized by lobed (oak) leaves up to 24 cm in length and big flowers up to 3 cm in diameter.
Serrated. Low-growing perennial bush. Varieties: “BlueBird”, “Golden Sunlight”, “Veerle”. A spreading plant with jagged leaves and inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter. Distinctive feature variety is the color of the flowers - a bright, rich blue hue.
Chereshkova. The plant is a deciduous vine with aerial roots; the total length of hydrangea can reach 25 meters with proper care. This type of flowering hydrangea is used by florists to decorate arches and pergolas. The plant variety is distinguished by a wide variety of flowering colors and shapes, but main feature- This is a spicy aroma. This type of hydrangea is often called climbing or climbing.
Garden large-leaved. Another name is broad-leaved, large-leaved. Decorative look flowering hydrangea for planting in open ground, at least 130 cm high and straight ovoid leaves, as well as spherical inflorescences. The flowers are large, up to 3 cm, usually Pink colour. The shoots of the current year are grassy and green, woody on next year. The most common flowering varieties are “Forever & Ever”, “Romance”, “Red Sensation” and many others.
. The name of the crop is directly related to the shape of the flowers, which are associated with the panicle and reach a length of 20-25 cm. This is a bush up to 2.5 meters high, which tolerates low winter temperatures and has a dense crown. Varieties: “Vanilla Fraze”, “Diamond Rouge”, Limelight.”
Tree-like. The peculiarity of the plant is its high tolerance to cold and strong, abundant flowering. The tree-like variety is a tall shrub, up to 160 cm with oblong leaves and small flowers in inflorescence. Flowers of this species are often called white bush hydrangea. This type flourishing culture is represented by such popular varieties, like Grandiflora, Pink Annabelle.

When and how long do hydrangeas bloom?

It has the following properties:

Allows increase productivity by 50% in just a few weeks of use.
You can get a good one harvest even on low-fertility soils and in unfavorable climatic conditions
Absolutely safe

Features of hydrangea flowering

Hydrangea blooming received its name thanks to the sister of Prince of the Holy Roman Empire Charles Heinrich of Nassau-Siegen, Princess Hortensia. The literal translation of the name is “water vessel”, which means that in order to get abundant flowering, it must not be left without life-giving moisture.

If hydrangea is planted in early spring with high-quality fertilizer soil, the bush can please you with several inflorescences by mid-summer.

In what year after planting the hydrangea will bloom depends on the region.

On average, the plant will bloom 3 years after planting; it is worth considering that hydrangea does not bloom in the 2 and 4 years of planting.

The culture tolerates light shade and partial shade.

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom?

If you do not care for it correctly, it often happens that the bush does not bloom.

To achieve success, you need to find out the reasons and eliminate them:

Improper soil fertilization, namely, excessive use of potassium phosphate elements will lead to oversaturation of the soil. must be applied to the soil throughout spring, summer and autumn, in winter time use is strictly prohibited.
Too much pruning crowns of hydrangea will lead to the fact that the inflorescences will have nothing to develop on. In spring, you can trim only dry branches and those growing inside the bush, so as not to interfere with the formation of the crown.
Unfair care before winter will lead to freezing of last year's shoots, so it is important to take care of high-quality cover for the crown of the bush for the winter. It is worth removing woven dense material after frosts and a decline in spring temperature changes.
Hydrangea does not bloom if the buds are damaged. This happens with varieties that have large leaves. Buds form on top of last year's shoots. Flowering occurs precisely on these shoots, so it is important to cover the flower completely in the winter so that the buds do not freeze.

How to get hydrangea to bloom in the garden?

For crops in open ground, subject to all care rules, in order to increase flowering and so that the plant blooms faster, use the following techniques:

Early growth arrest performed in November or early December, in which case the first flowering can be expected in early March.
For faster flowering The warm watering method is used; for this, water is watered with a temperature of at least 35-36 degrees from the early spring months.
With the appearance of the first leaves and shoots, watering of the bush is doubled, and additional spraying is used at a temperature of at least 14 degrees.

For hydrangeas in tubs and pots, there are other ways to speed up flowering:

Thermal baths when the pot is placed for 10-12 hours in a basin with warm water(36-38 degrees).
To ensure flowering in December-January it is necessary to carry out measures for additional electric lighting. To do this, tubs and pots are placed under lamps for 8-10 hours at a time, especially at night. Such an event accelerates the onset of inflorescence formation by 15-20 days.

Flowering indoor hydrangea

Rules for caring for home flowers:

Trim an adult homemade hydrangea bush to 25-30 cm from the ground and plant it in the ground for the winter.
Cover well with dry leaves and spruce.
In spring, trim the stems to the very base.
After renewing the crown in August, plant the plant back in the tub.

Tips for choosing pot size:

For one shoot on a bush, choose a tub with a diameter of no more than 10-12 cm.
Two or three shoots - it is better to give preference to a pot with a diameter of up to 15 cm.
For a large bush – 18-20 cm.

Care after flowering

Hydrangea of paniculate and tree-like varieties is pruned with high quality, but large-leaved hydrangea is not touched at all, because it blooms on last year’s shoots. Caring for perennials after flowering must be carried out either in late autumn, or all activities must be postponed to spring. When flowering has passed, the inflorescences must be carefully removed from the bush.

How to trim?

Pruning techniques are divided into two main types:

Hydrangea paniculate variety cut back to old branches, leaving a few main shoots. Indoor hydrangeas undergo gentle pruning, forming the crown of the bush and somewhat replacing old branches with new ones. The event takes place in late autumn.

Renewing a bush, if done correctly, is completely safe and will allow the bush to acquire greater luxury and splendor.

Preparing for winter

Before the attack winter period, hydrangea is covered thick fabric, natural, breathable. Tree hydrangea is tolerant of cold weather, but it is also covered for the winter.

Step-by-step plan for preparing a perennial plant for winter:

On the 20th of September, excess leaves are removed according to the recommended pruning scheme. This will ensure lignification of the shoots and strengthening of the bush.
After this, it is important to feed the soil with potassium phosphate elements to provide the plant with high-quality nutrition during the winter.
It is important to know that in autumn time It is strictly not recommended to introduce nitrogen preparations into the soil.
After this, cover the bush with woven material.

Hydrangea transplant

It is not recommended to replant perennial shrubs in autumn; this will cause difficulties in the plant’s adaptation and lead to death. But, if we are talking about tree hydrangea or paniculata, experts allow replanting in the fall.

It is better to replant the plant in the spring, if possible, before the sap begins to flow.

For this:

dig a hole with a diameter of up to 30 cm;
bring in, pour in a bucket of water;
branches flowering bush tied with twine so as not to damage them;
plant a bush in the prepared hole and cover it with soil.

At the end of the event, carry out rejuvenating pruning of the crown so that the hydrangea takes root as quickly as possible and sends out new roots and blooms. It is not advisable to replant a blooming hydrangea; this will lead to the death of the inflorescences and poor survival rate.

Photo gallery: blooming hydrangea in garden design

Stories from our readers!
“I am a summer resident with many years of experience, and I started using this fertilizer only last year. I tested it on the most capricious vegetable in my garden - tomatoes. The bushes grew and bloomed together, they yielded more than usual. And they did not suffer from late blight, this is the main thing.

Fertilizer really gives more intensive growth garden plants, and they bear fruit much better. Nowadays you can’t grow a normal harvest without fertilizer, and this fertilizing increases the amount of vegetables, so I’m very pleased with the result.”

How to feed hydrangea?

Proper systematic feeding of soil for hydrangea is the key to long-lasting growth, lush flowering and good general condition bush. It is necessary to fertilize so that the plant survives the winter and is resistant to diseases and pests.

For the spring period, the following fertilizer application scheme is used:

IN spring period leaves develop, inflorescences form, and the crown grows. For this important element is nitrogen, therefore for feeding it is recommended to use solutions of potassium sulfate and urea in equal parts 1:1 and diluted in water (10 liters). To water one flowering bush, at least 4-6 liters of solution are required.
So that the hydrangea receives sufficient quantity nitric acid, use slurry, which is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10.
Before tying buds It is recommended to add a slightly different composition to the soil; a large amount of phosphorus and potassium is required. A drug such as superphosphate is great for this.
For a strong powerful stem, hydrangea is fed with a weak, slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate. It can only be applied three times during the entire spring season.

In summer time to receive abundant flowering hydrangeas use the drug “Kemira flower”, as well as the following feeding recipes:

Organic-based solutions, such as bird droppings or manure, diluted in equal parts with water.
In summer, nitrogen substances are limited.
In the summer, lactic acid is well used; in this case, it is allowed to use kefir, whey, and yogurt for irrigation.
Effective simple option is feeding with soaked sourdough bread.

In autumn, they pay special attention to the issue of fertilizing flowering hydrangeas and carefully follow the recommendations:

Add potassium sulfate and superphosphates to the soil. Specialized phosphorus-potassium solutions help the perennial to properly prepare for winter and strengthen the roots. To do this, dilute 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water and use at least 7 liters per bush.
Add nitrogen elements to the soil at autumn period strictly not allowed. Otherwise, this may result in the plant being vulnerable to frost and not surviving the winter. The only thing that is allowed to be used is peat and manure in small quantities.

Hydrangea diseases and how to revive a flower?

Among the most common diseases and pests of hydrangea are the following:

Cobwebby	Description: Covers inner side leaves of a blooming hydrangea with a web of brown tint. In this case, yellowing of the foliage is immediately noticeable, after which it dries and falls off. How to fight? Products such as Tiofors and Fitoverm are used as pest control drugs.
Mealybug	Description: The disease caused by a mealyworm appears on the leaves and stems of the bush; they become covered with extensive yellow spots. If no control measures are taken, the spots gradually grow and the plant dies. The development of such an unpleasant situation is facilitated by high humidity air and high temperature. How to fight? To get rid of the disease, use a solution copper sulfate, water and green soap in parts 15g:10l:150g.
Chlorosis	Description: The first sign that the hydrangea has been exposed to chlorosis , are white leaves in which only the veins remain dark green. This often manifests itself when there is an excess of humus or manure in the soil. How to fight? In this case, it is necessary to use a solution of potassium nitrate 40 g per bucket of water and water it 3 times every three days.
Green leafy	Description: If a flowering hydrangea is affected by green leaf aphids, most often when the crop grows in closed ground. How to fight? As control and prevention, the method of spraying with a solution of anabasine sulfate, in a proportion of 20 grams per 10 liters of water, is used.
Fungal rot	Description: Fungal rot of hydrangea spreads mainly to the roots of the plant. This process stops the flow of moisture and nutrients, due to which the perennial becomes covered with storms and dies. The cause is bacteria in the soil (organic amendments), which mainly affect young, immature plants. How to fight? To get rid of fungal diseases in a timely manner, use the effective drug phytosporin and other high-quality ones.
Snails	Description: Often, blooming hydrangea is attacked by snails (grape and common amber). Insects eat inflorescences, feed on moisture from leaves, and “steal” nutrients from the plant. Snails can often be seen near a bush in winter; they hibernate there and in the soil dug around the nest of snails. With the appearance of the first rays of sunlight, the snails begin to feed on the still unblown shoots. How to fight? To get rid of them in the spring, use metaldehyde powder, scattering it around the bush. It mixes with the soil and blocks the path of snails, preventing them from reaching leaves and flowers.
Root nematode	Description: They are small worms that create swellings on the roots during their life. This leads to rotting and death of the plant. This problem is most often encountered by owners of young bushes. How to fight? To eliminate the problem, use a light solution of potassium permanganate to water the roots.

To revive a plant, depending on the cause of its death, a variety of chemicals and high-quality, effective fertilizers are used.

To get rid of light spots on hydrangea leaves, it is necessary to rid the crop of direct sunlight.
If only the tips of the plant rot, the problem is a lack of moisture and dry air.
If the hydrangea does not bloom, the soil may need to be fed with nutrient solutions.

We answer questions

Hydrangea unique flower, and many inexperienced gardeners are asking the most common questions about caring for and growing perennial plants.

We answer the questions:

A hydrangea bush with inflorescences of different colors - how to achieve this effect? It is not difficult to achieve this effect; fertilizing will help with this:
1. To get a different shade on one bush inflorescences, you need to add ammonia-potassium alum diluted in water (10 pieces per 2 liters) on one side of the bush. This will give one part of the hydrangea bush a blue color.
2. To obtain sky blue inflorescences feed the soil with iron salts or you can dig iron pipe, for subsequent oxidation.
3. To get pink color flowers on a bush, you need to pour a handful of lime into the soil on one side of the perennial.
Is it possible to make a purchased flowering one indoor hydrangea did it bloom several times? Hydrangea unique plant, inflorescences appear from mid-summer to late autumn. But if the flowering period has already passed, it is impossible to make the flower bloom again, even if it is transplanted into open ground.
Is it possible to take cuttings from a flowering bush? Hydrangea cuttings are best done in summer period annual cuttings, up to 15 cm long. The flowering bush is pruned for cuttings, but the inflorescences are removed (trimmed). In this case, better rooting of the branches is ensured and the material for planting is of higher quality.

Conclusion

Hydrangea represents the most beautiful perennial for home and garden. Thanks to constant high-quality care, the bush will delight its owners with gorgeous flowers and bright colors. Growing hydrangea in the country will not be difficult even for a novice gardener if you follow the rules and recommendations described above.

Very beautiful lush inflorescences Hydrangeas can be seen on summer cottages and in city parks.

But there are also amateurs who grow this plant at home.

And this individual differs from a large garden bush in its dwarf growth, when only a flower cap of a brightly saturated or pale color peeks out from the pot.

It is for the sake of this charm that this culture is planted on windowsills. But it happens that a plant refuses to please others with its inflorescences. What is the reason why Hydrangea does not bloom?

Did you plant the flower correctly?

You brought home a little miracle and are waiting with lust for it to bloom. But for some reason Hortense is in no hurry to do this. First of all, pay attention to the flower pot in which the plant is located.

If this is a temporary shelter in which they seat flower seedlings in the store, then the Hydrangea should be transplanted into a more suitable container. The pot should be wider than the one in which the flower is currently located. However, you should not choose a deep vessel, because... The roots of culture grow wider, not deeper.

If Hydrangea has been in the same place for more than 2 years flower pot, then God himself ordered a transplant. It is the annual change of pots that stimulates the plant to flower.

Transplants should be carried out in the fall, using turf and leaf soil, peat and sand.

Soil acidification

Experienced gardeners know that Hydrangea loves to accumulate aluminum salts. The color of the inflorescences depends on the saturation of this element. The more acidified the soil, the bluer the flowers turn out.

An alkaline environment gives a pink tint, and a neutral one gives a white tint. When it comes to acidification, soil additives in the form of sawdust, peat or pine needles are usually used.

For the same purpose, the plant is sprayed with acidified water. lemon juice or watered with alum.

And only an inexperienced gardener introduces nitrogen-containing fertilizers as a nutrient element. Naturally, they stimulate the growth of plants well, but at the same time suppress their ability to bloom - all the energy is spent on forcing.

Temperature and lighting

Despite the fact that Hydrangea is a plant of the southern type, it is not worth all year round“bathe” it in ultraviolet rays. Let the flower stand on a well-lit windowsill, where only diffused light from the street enters.

In the absence of such conditions, you should not move Hydrangea deeper into the room - such darkening will weaken the plant and cause it to refuse to bloom.

The temperature for budding plays an important role - room temperature is considered optimal (18-22°C). But this is only during a period of active growth.

When the time for seasonal dormancy has come (from late autumn to February), during this time Hydrangea needs to create a cool environment (about 7-10°) somewhere in the basement.

If the plant is left to winter on the windowsill in a warm place, then you should not ask the question “why doesn’t Hydrangea bloom on time?”

Finally

Flowers should be treated like women, giving them affection and attention. Don't ignore their whims; create the most optimal conditions for development.

And then Hydrangea will certainly reciprocate, presenting her ruler with a lush ball of inflorescences. And what color you prefer is up to you.

The heir to the Far Eastern natural species and selection novelties of the European collection, Hydrangea, as this flower is called in botanical atlases, is represented in domestic floriculture by several varieties resistant to cool summers and harsh winters:

There are no evergreen forms among them. Sometimes, for wintering, certain varieties have to be transplanted into pots and brought indoors, but minus temperature up to 10◦C, and even -25◦C, some of the hydrangeas (for example, paniculata) can withstand reliable shelter.

When planting in rows, an interval of 1.5 meters is prudently laid for the growth of the bush., but it happens that bushes grow up to 2.5 m in diameter (with good lighting), covered with a cap of inflorescences - each the size of a human head. Here you cannot do without supports and props.

A year after planting, the flower, if properly cared for, forms a spectacular bush of 5-7 inflorescences, which, with a total height of up to 2 meters and above, is a serious application for a decorative accent in the garden.

It blooms by mid-summer, when there are more sunny days and it is relatively warm at night. The bush fades by September-October, repeating this cycle up to 30-50 times. Over 8 years of life, the mother plant is capable of producing numerous offspring - up to 50 root cuttings.

ATTENTION: The aroma is noticeable only when it’s warm sunny weather, it is inferior in strength to its southern relatives. Will not please you with the aroma and flowering plant, located in the shade, in the cool environment of the northern summer.

Photos of plants

Here you can see photos of blooming hydrangeas.

Reproduction

Hydrangea is most often propagated by cuttings., harvested from flexible basal shoots (up to 3 internodes 7-8 cm in size). Suitable for reproduction and stem cuttings, which are buried in the substrate (peat and sand) at t◦20◦C and humidity - 80%.

5-6 weeks are enough for rooting, after which the plants are planted in pots or soil. In pots, seedlings can overwinter, stored in the basement. Attempts to flower in the first year are interrupted.

The bush is propagated by dividing in the spring, transplanting the “divisions” to prepared places. One-year-old cuttings can also give birth to a new plant if they are bent and buried, leaving the tip of the shoot on the surface.

Grafting is occasionally used for varietal changes. Its implementation requires special knowledge and skills, therefore it is not used in home gardening. Growing hydrangeas from seeds is very labor-intensive, and therefore not popular.

The hydrangea growing cycle consists of::

propagation (by cuttings, layering, dividing the bush, grafting and seeds);
summer care for it (watering, fertilizing, pruning, mulching);
dormant period (from October to March - wintering);
spring forcing (depending on the purpose) for annuals - 5-10cm (potted), 5-30cm (ground); A plant overwintering in the basement can be put out for forcing as early as February.

How to properly care?

Summer care

regular watering (once every 7 days - 20-30 liters) with rain or settled water, more often in hot weather;
weeding, loosening (to a depth of 10 cm) and mulching the root circle (up to 3 times per season);
nitrogenous fertilizer for the bush during the period of bud formation (spring) and potassium fertilizer during flowering (summer), with regularity once every 2 weeks;
sanitary and from 4 years old - formative pruning in open ground, in order to rejuvenate the bush and stimulate flowering;
period of maintenance work - spring-autumn;
preparation for the dormant period: removing leaves, tying the bush into a bunch, high hilling, establishing support under the covering material - spruce branches, film, lutrasil;
in severe winters, cover the entire structure with snow;
planting or transplanting new plants into a prepared hole of 50x50 and the same depth; soil composition in equal parts: turf, sand, humus and peat;
in the first year the expected growth of stems is 20-30 cm.

ADVICE: Create support fences around the bush to protect the stems from lodging under the weight of large inflorescences.

Peace

The rest period for hydrangeas in mild warm climates does not require any protective measures : only trimming and tying into bunches. After a snowy winter, with the beginning of sap flow and bud germination, the stems should be gradually opened during the day, ventilating the bush, lifted from the shelter, tied vertically, protecting it from sunburn.

All parts of the growing hydrangea are considered poisonous because they contain cyanogenic glycoids, but folk medicine root extract is used as a tonic, wound healing, diuretic and analgesic.

Necessary conditions for flowering

Among gardeners, there are two opinions on cultivating hydrangea: unpretentious plant, and - quite capricious. They are based on correct and incorrect choice landing spots.

After all, growth inhibition, poor flowering, chlorosis or powdery mildew- a consequence of unsuccessful placement of the bush, or choice of soil composition. The plant may also suffer from an excess of gardener love: excessively flooded or “fed” with fertilizers.

Optimal conditions for growth:

Well-lit hill above the horizon groundwater, where there is no direct sun, but partial shade forms.
Natural or artificial protection from constant winds and rainfall.
Podzolic soils and nutritious loams; acidity is not higher than pH4.5-5.
Constant moisture of the earthen coma.
Temperature background is not lower than +12◦С.
Regular removal of weeds and shoots from the root circle.
Formative pruning.
Proper preparation for wintering.

IMPORTANT: In areas with alkaline soil, artificial acidifiers are used for the well-being of the bush: citric or oxalic acid (30 ml per bucket of water), and even battery electrolyte (1 ml per liter of water).

Watch a video about the conditions for lush flowering of hydrangea:

The ability to influence color is a rare gift of nature to man.

The beauty of the spherical inflorescences of hydrangea is provided by sterile four-petal flowers bordering inconspicuous small fertile flowers. The latter produce a seed pod and are honey plants, but the moth-like sterile flowers are admired.

At the very beginning of flowering, regardless of the variety, they all have a light green color. Only over time does it become obvious what color the panicles will be.

The palette of blooming hydrangea: from chaste white and pale beige through all shades of pink to delicate tones of lilac, blue and blue. It's hard to believe but The color of the inflorescences is determined by the acidity and content of chemical elements in the soil:

the presence of Al or Fe in the form of alum guarantees all shades of blue;
on slightly alkaline soils, sterile flowers will have a pink (natural) color;
The addition of peat also contributes to the color change.

ATTENTION: Harmless ones are commercially available chemical compositions, capable of changing the color of inflorescences, with greater or lesser intensity depending on the amount of added substance.

This treatment is carried out at the beginning of the growing season. Regular use of additives gives unambiguous color of panicles, irregular use results in two-colored appearance.

Special hybrids of hydrangeas have been developed that can change color and very easily “repaint” the desired color - “NikkoBlue”, “Blaumeise”, etc. The most difficult to change color are snow-white varieties, in best case scenario their inflorescences may take on a slightly pink tint. By influencing color samples, you can get complex shades of red and blue - lilac, violet.

People discovered this feature of influencing the color of hydrangea inflorescences experimentally a long time ago: they buried rusty objects in the bush or watered the plant with rusty water.

How to prolong the joy of admiring?

A flowering bush pleases the eye for several months; inflorescences cut for a bouquet stand in water for 2 weeks. But the desire to extend the flowering season prompted florists to preserve blooming hydrangeas different ways for up to a year. This is drying:

Such a flower will last in a floral arrangement for a year without losing color, but then it will still fade.

You need to cut flowers for drying at the end of the season., when fertile flowers begin to actively bloom, and sterile ones begin to change color and fade. It is very difficult to catch this moment: if you hurry, the flowers will dry for a very long time to the detriment of their beauty; if you are late, they will turn from colored to brown. Plucking faded flowers is also not recommended, as this can cause the entire panicle to wither.

IMPORTANT: Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, but excess moisture is also harmful to it. From him appear fungal diseases, the roots may rot. A weakened plant is a home for aphids, mites and nematodes.

Watch a video about drying methods:

Why doesn’t it bloom in the garden and what should be done in such cases?

This is perhaps the most important disappointment of the gardener. Well, in the first year - of course, it’s too early for her. And then? The reason may be:

an incorrectly selected variety for a given region;
artificial stimulation of a pre-sale copy, as can be seen from the emerging buds;
a sharp change in the substrate in which the purchased plant was located and the garden soil;
lack of development of the root system;
early release of the bush from frost protection in spring;
frost damage to the upper buds;
improper pruning of stems, with the removal of flower buds;
constant plant stay in the shade;
lack of a fertilizer complex.

Correctly identifying the causes will help to correctly eliminate them, and wait for the solemn moment: the lush flowering of the hydrangea bush.

You won't find hydrangea in a bouquet. The reason for this is appearance. The flower is so beautiful that it is a pity to pick it from the bush. It happens that the plant refuses to bloom. This is of great concern to gardeners and beauty lovers. Read the article about why hydrangeas don’t bloom.

Description

The genus of this plant includes up to eighty species. Hydrangea also has another name - hydrangea, which is translated from Latin language means "vessel of water". The birthplace of the flower is the Land of the Rising Sun.

Hydrangea is a bush up to sixty centimeters tall. Some garden species this deciduous ornamental plant have high frost resistance. The texture of the large dark green leaves is rough, the edges are jagged. The flowers are white, red, blue and are collected in huge inflorescences of spherical or conical shape. Stunningly beautiful plant!

How to make garden hydrangea bloom?

Plant it in a sunny area protected from the wind.
The ground under the plant should be mulched with peat in a thick layer.
When shoots appear, they need to be pinned to the ground.
In order not to wonder in the spring why garden hydrangea does not bloom, for the winter, after the listed preparatory work, it should be covered on top with a box previously upholstered with heat-insulating material.

With the onset of spring, as soon as the snow melts, the hydrangea needs to be opened so that it does not rot. But, if suddenly the temperature starts to drop, cover it again. The fact is that when the plant is freed from its shelter, shoots begin to grow instantly, and even a slight frost can destroy them.
It is recommended to feed hydrangea with special fertilizers: “Florena” or “Rosop”.

What to look for when buying planting material?

When purchasing flowers, you should carefully examine the seedlings so that in the future the question does not arise about why hydrangeas do not bloom. If they have buds, it means they were stimulated to flower. They were watered using the drip method with fertilizer added to the water. Such plants, if you purchase them, will not bloom for a couple of years, or even die. After planting a seedling in the ground, it is not recommended to suddenly change the usual growing conditions. The plant needs to adapt and take root. To do this, fertilizers must be added to the soil over the course of two months at intervals of two weeks. This will teach the roots to independently extract food from the soil.

Why don't hydrangeas bloom? This may occur due to a poorly developed root system. In order for the seedlings to quickly grow and bloom profusely in the future, during planting you need to mix the garden soil with a substrate, the amount of which should not greatly change the structure of the soil.

Why don't hydrangeas bloom in open ground?

This flower has many varieties. For example, large-leaved garden hydrangea can grow on a plot for many years, pleasing the eye with the shape of the bush and the color of the leaves, but not bloom. Young tree-like and paniculate hydrangeas also do not bloom, because they do not have enough strength to do so or they are provided with unsuitable conditions for growth. But this happens rarely, do not be alarmed. Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? There are many reasons, let’s consider some of them using the example of large-leaved hydrangea:

A recently planted hydrangea may not bloom because it root system not yet sufficiently developed. Over time, when the plant gets stronger, everything will work out. This also happens when it is planted in the ground. In this case, you will have to admire the beauty of the bush’s shape and leaves for a couple of years.
Many gardeners regularly cut off the top part of last year's shoots, considering this to be correct. Alas, you should know that this is where hydrangea flowers appear.
If flower buds during spring frosts suffer, it is likely that the plant will not bloom this year.
The question often arises about why hydrangeas do not bloom outside. Yes, you just chose a species that is not suitable for your climate, that’s all. There may be no other reasons. It is known that northern regions They have a short summer, and the flower buds simply do not have time to ripen.

Preparing hydrangea for winter

This culture tolerates the winter season well. But why doesn’t hydrangea bloom in the garden in the spring, after a frosty period? The solution to this issue may depend on how well and correctly the hydrangea is protected from low temperatures. The most important thing is to protect the tops of the shoots from freezing. And to do this, take care already in September by covering the bush with lutrasil or film, since there are always frosts at the end of the month. But it’s too early to hide the flower for the winter.

One of the reasons may be an uncomfortable winter. Therefore, before the ground freezes, the inflorescences should be cut off. Top part shoots should remain, buds will form on it. The branches of young plants are bent to the ground and covered with peat along with the roots. If you don’t have it, then use the ground. Hydrangeas that are five years old and older have very fragile branches. To avoid breaking them, stones are placed in the root zone, then a cushion of spruce branches and leaves is placed. The whole thing is covered with boards on top and sprinkled with a thick layer of earth. The work must be done carefully so as not to injure the plant. In the spring, the embankment is gradually removed. The plant is rejuvenated: all damaged and diseased branches are pruned.

What do you need to bloom at home?

Many housewives are interested in the question of why indoor hydrangea does not bloom. To get her to do this, you need to provide proper care. To do this, you need to place the hydrangea in a bright room, which is always ventilated, but so that the sun's rays do not directly hit the leaves.

The flower prefers acidic soil, which should always be moist; this is the most important thing for hydrangea. Therefore, it needs to be systematically watered and sprayed from above. In spring it’s a good idea to take the plant outside Fresh air, and pluck out the shoots that appear from the root half their length, leaving only the strongest.

Why home hydrangea not blooming? There can be many reasons, but one of them is the temperature difference in the room. It must be stable, especially during the flowering period.
If the plant suddenly suddenly stops blooming, it is recommended to cut the shoots in half.
It is very important to change the plant to a new one after 3-4 years. This will ensure its annual flowering, subject to all care rules.

To avoid the question of why hydrangea does not bloom at home, play it safe and rule out reasons such as replanting and replacing soil. This procedure must be repeated every year. When replanting a plant, you need to thoroughly loosen the clod of earth at the roots. You can use soil for azaleas by mixing it with soil and horn flour. Dried coffee serves as a good fertilizer. It can be mixed with the ground or scattered over its surface. You can ease the hassle and buy ready-made soil for

Helpful information

There is an opinion that White color Hydrangeas can be easily changed to another by using a special solution. This is not entirely true. White hydrangea varieties are not capable of changing color. This can only be done large leaf hydrangea, which can change color if the soil is highly acidic. But even if a bluish tint appears on the flowers, it will be blurry and dirty-pale.

It should be remembered that the plant can bloom even with unpruned shoots. But paniculata or when pruning branches produces stronger shoots. But it’s better not to trim large-leaved ones. You need to know that it forms inflorescences at the top of the shoots. They can, of course, be pruned in the spring. They will also give strong side shoots, but will not bloom. It is better to rejuvenate the bush by removing thick and damaged branches.

WHY HYDRANGEA DOESN'T BLOW Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What secrets do those who achieve impressive disclosure of a wide palette of colors know? But you don’t need to know much to help a hydrangea bush bring a touch of French charm to your garden. Flower growers who have studied preferences of this plant, consider caring for it easy and quite pleasant. The only question is whether to join their number or leave the study of the bush for others. Why hydrangea does not bloom Among the many reasons for the lack of flowers in a hydrangea bush, there are 5 main ones, which most often occur in the former CIS: Lack of watering. The botanical name of the shrub “hydrangea” translated from Greek means “vessel of water”. It is worth remembering that love of moisture is the main feature of the “character” of hydrangea. Weakened root system. If the plant was recently planted, it will need time to strengthen and grow, regardless of whether it was purchased “in bloom” or not. Trimming the top of last year's shoots. Old varieties of large-leaved garden hydrangea They bloom exclusively in the upper part of the shoots that grew last year. Improper pruning of the bush leads to the fact that the plant cannot gather its strength and bloom for many years. Damage to flower buds. Flower buds begin to form in the fall, so severe frosts in snowless winters or frosts in early spring are able to cancel the magnificent riot of colors in the coming year. Lack of acclimatization. Gardening organizations offer such a large number of varieties that it is tempting to buy a few special ones. beautiful bushes in bloom. But there’s just a “small detail” that sellers don’t always mention: are all the bushes suitable for the given climate in the surrounding area? If the seedlings initially grew in a greenhouse and love a lot of warmth and light, then the short northern summer does not give them the opportunity to lay flower buds. A shrub can grow, but never bloom. Large-leaved hydrangea: planting and care Selecting a location. Most flower varieties take root in sunny or semi-shaded places on well-drained fertile soils. If the soil does not meet the requirements, it is improved as much as possible. The soil. An ideal mixture of leaf soil, humus, sand and peat in proportions 2:2:1:1. Landing. The planting hole should be 2 times larger than the root ball of the seedling. Several shovels of compost are poured into the bottom, organic fertilizers, urea, potassium sulfate and granulated superphosphate. After this, the plant is not fed for 2 years. Hydrangeas are planted either singly or in groups at a distance of 1-1.5 m between bushes. Tree trunk circles are mulched with peat, sawdust or pine needles (a layer about 6 cm thick). Watering. This is done once a week, and in hot weather it can be done more often, provided that the water does not stagnate on the surface. Additional care. Loosening the soil and weeding is carried out along with watering. Trimming. Happens in the spring. Damaged, dried out, old shoots are trimmed without shortening the remaining shoots in order to leave flower buds on the bush. How to grow hydrangea with other plants The hydrangea bush grows with a dense spreading crown, so only other shrubs and trees can be close neighbors. To add special beauty to the landscape, you can opt for holly or rhododendrons. The lower tier is filled with hosta or ferns. To obtain a green carpet on the ground that smoothly turns into a lush, rounded shrub, you can plant periwinkle and common ivy. How to feed hydrangea better development shrubs need to regularly replenish the soil with various mixtures. In the spring, during the active decade of growth, it is suitable to add 20-25 g of urea, 30-40 g of potassium sulfate and 30-40 g of superphosphate per 1 sq.m. to the soil. As soon as the buds appear, a second feeding is carried out with superphosphates (50-80 g) and potassium sulfate (40-50 g). In the summer and early autumn, you can feed the hydrangea 1-2 more times with complex mineral fertilizers according to the directions on the package. Known pests and diseases of hydrangea The shrub is resistant to various pests, so rare cases of diseases are perceived with surprise and slight panic. However, for every problem there is sure to be a proven solution: Mosaic leaf disease is aimed at destroying the leaves and shoots of hydrangea. Viral disease manifests itself as yellow spots mosaic shape on the leaves (less often - in the form of stripes). It is recommended to cut out and burn affected shoots. Fungal diseases (downy mildew, gray rot, etc.) appear as spots on the leaves, generally reducing the protective powers of garden hydrangea. Control measures include removing dried bushes along with the roots, removing affected areas of shoots, spraying and watering with special solutions (for example, Fundazol, Pierazin, etc.). Weevils, aphids, spider mites and weevils feed on the sap of the tissues of mainly young leaves, which leads to a loss of decorativeness of plants and a decrease in its protective functions. Preventive spraying with Bordeaux mixture reduces the likelihood of their occurrence. If the pest has already settled on the foliage, then spray chemicals according to instructions. The most commonly used are Aktara, Aktellik, Karbofos, Fi-toverm, Fufa-non. Recommendation from experienced gardeners. To start getting acquainted with hydrangea, you should choose unpretentious varieties, designed for the climate in a certain region. After training on simple shrubs, you can gradually move on to more capricious and rare species.