How to properly make a sole for a foundation. Concrete foundation base

With strip foundations, when the width of the slabs coincides with the calculated width, it is allowed to replace rectangular slabs with slabs with corner cutouts. In this case, the slabs (of any shape) are laid in the form of a continuous strip. If the calculated width does not coincide with the width of the slab, intermittent foundations are designed.

Based on the established depth, shape and dimensions of the foundation base, the foundation is constructed using prefabricated reinforced concrete and concrete foundation structures or monolithic concrete structures.

Accompany the calculations with the necessary sketches.

Features of the calculation of intermittent foundations:

When constructing buildings that are not subject to increased rigidity requirements, on strong soils (dense and medium-density sand; hard, semi-solid, refractory silt-clay) with the groundwater level below the base of the foundation, it is allowed to use intermittent strip foundations, which are constructed from slabs located at some distance from each other. It is especially advisable to use such foundations in cases where the calculated width is less than standard slabs.

Figure 6.7: Discontinuous foundation

1 – soil surface; 2 – concrete blocks; 3 – foundation slabs; 4 – spaces between slabs filled with soil

Discontinuous foundations made of rectangular slabs and with corner cutouts are not recommended:

* in soil conditions of type II in terms of subsidence;

* when there is loose sand under the base of the foundation;

* if the seismicity of the area is 7 points or more; in this case, it is necessary to use slabs with corner cutouts, laying them in the form of a continuous strip;

* when silt-clay soils with a fluidity index occur below the base of the foundation I L>0,5.

Due to the distributive capacity of soils and the arch effect, the pressure under the base of discontinuous foundations at shallow depths is equalized and we can assume that they operate as continuous foundations. Therefore, their width is determined, the design resistance is assigned, and the settlement is calculated as for continuous strip foundations without deducting the areas of the gaps.

Optimal spacing between slabs C assigned from the condition of equality of the calculated soil resistance R obtained for a strip foundation with a width b, soil resistance obtained for a discontinuous foundation R p with slab width b p, length l p, with the operating conditions coefficient k d:

, (6.13)

The operating conditions coefficient depends on the condition of the soil (for intermediate values ​​it is determined by interpolation):

* k d=1.3 – for sands with porosity coefficient e@0.55 and silty clay soils with a fluidity index I L £ 0;

* k d=1 – for sands with porosity coefficient e@0.7 and silty clay soils with a fluidity index I L=0,5;

Based on the working conditions of the foundation soils and wall blocks, the interval between the slabs should be C£(0.9…1.2)m and no more than 0.7× l p, and the width of the slab should be b p£1.4 b. For more efficient use of discontinuous foundations, the number of intervals can be increased by using shortened slabs (1180 and 780 mm), if this does not entail an unjustified increase in labor costs.

The foundation of a building is its main element. He provides existence. The whole house as a whole. To prevent the foundation from starting to fall apart, it should be filled very efficiently.

We will help you complete this task correctly; to do this, you just need to follow our recommendations.

Before you start pouring the foundation, you should make the necessary preparations. First of all, you will need to clearly determine the position of your home. Then thoroughly clean the area and level it well.

You should not carry out the breakdown of the building yourself. It is better to entrust this matter to a professional. Using special devices and instruments, he will accurately mark all external corners with pegs. This is done to visualize the outer line of the foundation wall.

The main thing you must fill out is that it is necessary to determine whether your house is rectangular.

This is quite easy to do. To do this, simply measure its diagonals. They must be identical; if not, it means the house is not of the rectangular type.

Once the external catch mark has been completed, you can begin driving in the pegs. Three pegs should be driven in for each corner. The distance between them should be about 1 m from the marked foundation line. Then you should start nailing the boards.

This must be done so that their edge, which is considered the top, shows the level of the end of the foundation walls. The level will help you achieve high-quality leveling.

Next you will need to stretch the cord. This should be done through the board top edges on a pair of opposite catches. To correctly adjust the position of the cord you will need a plumb bob. This should be done so that the cord is directly under the mark that the professional will make. You will need to make notches in those.

In places where the cord comes into contact with the board, this is done in order to measure the position of the board. Remember that the notches you make must be completely identical to each other. The cords you pulled will help you in the next stages of construction. Namely, in determining the most even line for installing house walls. During the digging process, you can remove the cord. This is where the notches that you previously made on the surface of the boards come in handy.

They will always help you decide where the edges of the outer type of foundation walls are located. You will also need to determine the load-bearing type of center beam. This will be required to correctly lay out the line of the external type of foundation. It's not that hard to do, you just need to accurately measure the distance from the pieces of the catch. Then it will be necessary to drive in the pegs.

After this, you will need to lay horizontal boards. Please note that they must be of the same level. It is very important. The next step is to place the cord. This must be done by following previous recommendations. While you will be digging a pit directly under the foundation, you can optionally remove the pegs if they begin to interfere with you. After all the steps taken, you can begin to build the foundation walls and its base.

The base of the building and foundation

Now you have come to creating the base of the building. We have prepared some tips for you to make this process as successful as possible. Remember that before you start digging a ditch for the foundation, you must remove a layer of soil. The removed layer should be from the entire surface at once. You will need to dig additional ditches.

As for the size of the ditches, they should be approximately half a meter. Remember the important information that the base of the foundation should be about 10 cm thick. No less. In case the foundation in the non-existence is not of a very good level, you must widen it and also reinforce it. The wedge, which is located at the top of the foundation, performs important functions.

It helps the foundation wall to withstand lateral loads. Such loads can arise in the event of soil displacement. You may encounter uneven ground pits. In this type of situation, you should resort to leveling the pit with concrete. Never use soil that has already been dug up.

You will, of course, need to lay a foundation for the pillars and columns. To easily determine the line on which the pillars are located, the main function of which is to support a load-bearing beam, you need to use a cord.

On the house plan you should find the coordinates for the placement of the pillars, as well as their sizes. The foundations under them must be poured so that the parts that are on their surface are in the center of the foundation itself

The size of the foundation will depend entirely on the pressure of the foundation itself, as well as the load. Typically, the dimensions of the foundation for pillars and columns are 60 by 60 for a building with one floor, and 80 by 80 for several floors. Be sure to take this nuance into account. On the issue of soil density, it is better to consult directly with a professional.

He will give good advice. You must take into account that the smallest thickness of a foundation that cannot be reinforced is 0.1 m for columns. You must take into account that the thickness of the foundation itself cannot be narrower than the distance between the edges of the foundation and the column. It is important to take into account the time of pouring the foundation for fireplaces; it must coincide with the time of pouring the chimney. I would like to say a few words about the stepped foundation.

These foundations are very common when the ground is sloping, or in houses in which the presence of different levels can be seen. Remember that the base of the foundation and the vertical step part should be poured at the same time. The placement of the lower part of the sole is of particular importance. It will be better if it is placed on a base without disturbances.

Concrete is perfect for connecting to a vertical type sole. Its thickness should be approximately 15 cm, and its width should fully correspond to the parameters of the base of the foundation. If you know that there is a large enough slope, do not just one step, but several.

This is an important point. Please note that the distance of the steps in a vertical position should not be more than 60 cm. This does not apply to a rocky base. If the base is made of gravel or sand, the distance should not be higher than 40 cm. You need to follow our advice, and pouring the base of the building will be successful.

And you can also look video Start of construction. Excavation

from 7600/m.p.

The supporting sole is an increase in the bottom of the strip foundation in the form of a step. Such structural reinforcement perfectly supports massive houses, the construction of which is carried out on weak-bearing heterogeneous lands. When using a sole, the pressure of the structure is distributed more evenly, which reduces soil pressure.

Prices for a foundation with a support base

The cost of erecting a foundation on a supporting base consists of prices for the following types of work:

• marking the territory, reference to the terrain;
• excavation of earth for a trench under the tape - one decimeter;
• filling a cushion of sand (one to two decimeters) with further compaction;
• construction of a frame from reinforcement;
• production of formwork from boards;
• casting concrete solution (M 250).

This type of foundation has subtypes that are selected in accordance with the amount of pressure, the dimensions of the structure and the nature of the soil:

• with one stage;
• with two stages;
• with three steps.

Foundation structure on a supporting base

This foundation is not that complicated structurally. A strip foundation buried in the ground is being erected under the walls of the future building. It is necessary to use absolutely all the walls of the house, not only load-bearing, but also interior. The cross-sectional size of the strip support must be identical along the entire length of the perimeter. All this ribbon weave, which creates the foundation, holds the building and transfers the load to the ground.

The depth of the foundation with the supporting sole can be up to thirty centimeters deeper than the freezing line of the soil massif. The constituent materials of this foundation can be different:

• masonry made of rubble or bricks (in the modern world it is no longer relevant, although it was popular in the mid-twentieth century);
• concrete monolith (the most common option among modern developers);
• sections made of reinforced concrete (as a rule, they are used for large-scale development, since special construction machines are required to manipulate this type of material).

Advantages of a foundation on a support sole

• simplicity of construction;
• durability;
• excellent load-bearing capabilities;
• variety of types of soil mass for installation;
• no restrictions on building type;
• This implies the arrangement of a basement.

Disadvantages of a foundation on a supporting sole

• not suitable for lands with deep levels of freezing, as well as with severe swelling;
• the option with a concrete monolith, unlike the other two types, requires a significant increase in work time and labor costs;
• too much material is used (form boards, reinforcing bars and concrete mortar);
• special construction machines are required for buried types of foundations;
• quite expensive.

However, despite a decent number of disadvantages, a strip foundation on a support base is most popular among modern developers, because it guarantees the structure many years of life and reliability.

Columnar foundation

The base of the most common monolithic strip foundation is a reinforced concrete platform, which is needed so that the load from both the foundation itself and the building that stands on it is distributed evenly onto the ground. As a rule, the width of the base of the strip foundation or the base of the foundation should be twice the width of the foundation itself.

The construction of the foundation base is based on the calculation of data that characterizes the soil.

The height of such a sole, as a rule, is made no more than thirty centimeters, and the width of the base of the foundation is made at the level of sixty centimeters. In most cases, such foundations are reinforced by several rows of reinforcement, one rod of which has a diameter of twelve millimeters.

Sometimes it happens that the width of the sole exceeds the width of the foundation several times. This is due to the fact that some types of soil simply cannot support large masses that arise during the construction of fairly large objects.

Construction stages

Before starting construction, you need to mark the exact location of the foundation in the pit, that is, mark the corners and intersections of the walls, and so on. If surveyors worked on this site before starting work, then marking is not difficult. All that remains is to simply pull the cord between the poles (special flags). Milestones, as a rule, are installed even before the foundation pit begins to be dug.

Also in this case a plumb line is used. It helps to set new flags. For convenience, pieces of reinforcement can be used as such flags - later, when pouring the foundation, they will not need to be removed, but poured together with them. The flags must be installed at a distance that exactly matches the length of the wall that will stand on this section of the foundation.

After two checkboxes are installed, you need to install two more, that is, in the remaining two corners. This can be done using the diagonal method. It lies in the fact that, using simple mathematical calculations, the diagonal of a building is accurately calculated based on knowledge of the length and width of the building.

Knowing the length of the diagonal and the dimensions of the foundation, you can easily and most importantly accurately determine the position of the other two flags. This is done like this:

The width of the base of a strip foundation is often greater than the width of the foundation itself

• Two people hold the beginning of the tape measure at the already marked points;
• Another person crosses the two free ends of the tape measures at the mark that shows the length of the wall;
• At the intersection point, another flag is driven into the ground.

After the marking is made, it must be fully checked to eliminate possible errors. This is easy to check. All you need to do is simply measure the lengths of all sides, and if they correspond to the construction plan, then the markings were done correctly.

Formwork for the foundation

After marking and checking it, if successful, formwork should be prepared for the future foundation. For it, you can use ordinary boards that are about 30 centimeters wide and at least three in thickness. This is due to the fact that when pouring concrete, it will exert a very large lateral pressure on the formwork, and thin boards can simply bend, which will lead to curvature of the foundation.

To fasten the boards together, it is necessary to drive U-shaped metal rods into the ground, and the horizontal bar of such a rod should be no larger than the width of the foundation. Such elements must be placed from each other at a distance not exceeding 70 centimeters.

The boards themselves must be positioned so that the wall is exactly in the center of the foundation.

The work begins by fastening two boards of the specified size together at an angle of ninety degrees. This structure will serve as an outer corner. Next we set this angle at a certain distance from the cord.

After this, using U-shaped brackets, we install the internal walls of the formwork, which must be installed exactly parallel to the external walls. This is how there is a gradual progression from one corner of the formwork to the second and third. All brackets that secure the formwork can be placed at a distance of approximately 110-120 centimeters on straight sections.

At the junction, the boards should be nailed together with nails, which should be driven in at an angle in order to nail two boards with one nail. One fixing bracket must be installed on each side of the joint.

If the boards have slightly crooked ends, then to prevent a gap between them, another board is nailed up, from the outside, which closes this gap. If some board turns out to be a little longer than all the others, then you don’t have to cut it, but simply nail it on top of the second board.

backfilling

The width of the foundation is calculated depending on the load of the building and the bearing capacity of the soil

After the formwork is completely installed, some places should be strengthened. This can be done using backfill. You need to sprinkle earth on those places where there is potential weakness, for example, the joints of formwork boards, or a place where it is not possible to drive in a fastener, and so on. Such places need to be covered with earth up to the very top of the boards. In addition, you can sprinkle the entire foundation around the perimeter, but with less earth. This will prevent the formwork from being lifted and pushed out of its position when the ground is very wet, for example during rain.

Setting the foundation level

You can set the level of the foundation edge using a theodolite. There are two basic rules for using this tool:

1. It must have a strictly horizontal location;
2. Must be placed at a precisely specified depth.

In order not to re-measure later, the level marks can be fixed using small nails. It is worth hammering the nails only half their length in increments of about 0.5-1 meter. Nails are driven into the inside of all formwork boards. Later, when concrete begins to be poured into the formwork, such nails will serve as a measuring line along which you need to navigate so that the foundation is not poured higher in one place and lower in another.

Pouring concrete

Trench for strip foundation

Concreting the pit begins from the most inaccessible places. If it turns out that some places are not accessible at all, then they are filled in like this:

• First, we begin to fill the place that is located next to the hard-to-reach one;
• Use a shovel to shovel concrete into hard-to-reach places until it reaches the level marked with nails.

Foundation reinforcement

Once the concrete pouring is complete, you can begin to reinforce the concrete. It is better to strengthen the foundation with reinforcement with a diametrical cross-section of 12-12.5 millimeters. To do this, the reinforcement bars need to be laid out on liquid concrete, at a distance of approximately fifteen to twenty centimeters from each wall of the formwork. The rods need to be pushed under the U-shaped clamps.

After the rods are laid, they should be buried in concrete. This can be done using bayonet shovels. Recessing should be done to a depth of about twenty centimeters, that is, two-thirds of the length of the shovel bayonet.

When the rods are completely immersed in concrete, then in order to avoid air getting in there, you need to make a trace with a shovel from above, that is, repeatedly insert the shovel into the concrete and stick it out, so that the bayonet of the shovel is located perpendicular to the reinforcement rod.

Grouting the foundation

Now that the reinforcement is laid, you need to slightly raise the U-shaped fixed elements. They should not be raised completely, but to a height of about 5-10 centimeters. This is necessary in order to grout the edge of the concrete surface in order to smooth it. In turn, smoothing is necessary in order to facilitate subsequent work on the construction of the base or walls, as well as to simplify the process of removing dirt from the foundation.

Cutting a keyway

Such a groove is needed to ensure a reliable connection between the foundation and the plinth or wall of the building. Extrusion is carried out along the entire center line of the upper foundation edge. There are no standards for the size of the groove, but usually it is made quite wide. For example, one of the options for the size of such a groove may be:

In general, such indicators can range from 2.5 to 5 centimeters, and from 6 to 10 centimeters, respectively.

It is best to make indentation with a long wooden block with a rectangular cross-section, and, as a rule, the width of the groove is determined by the width of the block.

It is best to install the groove after the concrete has already hardened a little. This fact will allow the groove to maintain its rectangular shape and not float. However, if the concrete is already too hard, then when the beam is pressed in and then removed, the walls of the keyway may crumble.

Grooves should only be placed on straight sections. They should not be made at corners; moreover, the grooves should not reach corners of the order of 50-80 centimeters.

Cleaning the formwork

After the foundation concrete has gained about 80 percent of its strength, which is achieved after a week in hot weather, the formwork can be removed. Before removing the boards, you first need to do some work. For example, by drawing all corners. This is done as follows:

• First, we take a ruler and mark a distance of ten to fifteen centimeters on each outer formwork board at the corner;
• Next, drawing directly along the foundation, draw lines from the points parallel to the walls;
• Place a dot at the intersection of the lines.

As a result of such simple work, it turns out that we have drawn a square, one corner of which is the outer corner of the foundation.

This kind of work is needed so that you can then know exactly where the outer corner of the foundation is, since it often happens that it breaks off during the construction process, and it becomes unclear where in the foundation to place the corner of the wall.

Columnar foundation

A column foundation is used when you need to build a building that will have a relatively light weight, for example, such a building could be a frame house.

Structurally, such a foundation consists of ordinary pillars and floor slabs. Pillars can be made of various materials:

• Brick;
• Stone;
• Tree.

Other materials can also be used.

The width of one pillar depends mainly on the load-bearing capacity of the soil on which it is installed and on the mass of the entire building. It's very easy to calculate.

First of all, you need to find out what type of land the construction is planned on. Further, using the reference data, you can find out what load-bearing capacity this type has. For example, we learned that a pressure of no more than 2.5 kilograms of force per centimeter square of soil area can be applied to the ground.

Then we next measure the mass of the planned building. This can also be done using special reference data, based on the characteristics of each building material. For example, if it is known that construction will take place using foam blocks, then it is not difficult to calculate how many such blocks are needed and how much they will all weigh. In the same way, we find out the mass of the floor and roof.

The mass of finishing can be ignored, as well as the people inside the building. This weight has already been taken into account, since all niches, that is, windows and doors, were not deducted.

After all the calculations of the mass have been made, and it has become known, it is necessary to calculate the area on which all this mass will stand. They do it this way: first they calculate the number of pillars, then the area of ​​contact with the ground of each pillar, that is, the width of the pillar is multiplied by the length of the pillar. After this, you can calculate the total support area as the number of pillars multiplied by the support area of ​​one pillar.

After this calculation has been made, you need to find out with what force the house will press on one centimeter square of the support area. To do this, you need to divide the entire weight over the entire area. We get a pressure of one centimeter square. For example, the entire mass is 100,000 kilograms, and the entire area is 50,000 square centimeters; accordingly, a pressure of 2 kilograms of force will be exerted per square centimeter.

The base of the foundation is the bottom plane of the foundation that transfers the load to the base.

The base of the foundation is the lower plane of the foundation, which is in direct contact with the base and transfers the load to it.

[Terminological dictionary of construction in 12 languages ​​(VNIIIS Gosstroy USSR)]

The base of the foundation is its lower plane, which transfers the load to the soil foundation.

[SP 46.13330.2012]

Encyclopedia headings: Abrasive equipment, Abrasives, Highways, Automotive equipment, Motor transport, Acoustic materials, Acoustic properties, Arches, Reinforcement, Reinforcement equipment, Architecture, Asbestos, Aspiration, Asphalt, Beams, Uncategorized, Concrete, Concrete and reinforced concrete, Blocks, Window blocks and doors, Logs, Beams, Cables, Ventilation, Weighing equipment, Vibration protection, Vibration technology, Types of reinforcement, Types of concrete, Types of vibration, Types of fumes, Types of tests, Types of stones, Types of bricks, Types of masonry, Types of control, Types of corrosion, Types of loads on materials, Types of floors, Types of glass, Types of cement, Water-pressure equipment, Water supply, water, Binders, Sealants, Waterproofing equipment, Waterproofing materials, Gypsum, Mining equipment, Rocks, Combustibility of materials, Gravel, Lifting mechanisms, Primers, fiberboard, Woodworking equipment, Woodworking, DEFECTS, Ceramics defects, Paint defects, Glass defects, Concrete structure defects, Defects, woodworking, Material deformations, Additives, Concrete additives, Cement additives, Dispensers, Wood, chipboard, Railway transport, Factories, Factories, production, workshops, Putties, Concrete fillers, Concrete protection, Wood protection, Corrosion protection, Sound-absorbing material, Ash, Lime, Wooden products, Glass products, Tools, Geodesy tools, Concrete testing, Testing equipment, Cement quality, Quality, control, Ceramics, Ceramics and refractories, Adhesives, Clinker, Wells, Columns, Compressor equipment, Conveyors, Precast concrete structures, Metal structures, Other structures, Corrosion of materials, Crane equipment, Paints, Varnishes, Lightweight concrete, Lightweight concrete fillers, Stairs, Trays, Mastics, Mills, Minerals, Installation equipment, Bridges, Spraying, Firing equipment, Wallpaper, Equipment, Equipment for the production of concrete, Equipment for the production of binders, Equipment for the production of ceramics, Equipment for the production of glass, Equipment for the production of cement, General, General terms, General terms, concrete, General terms, woodworking, General terms, equipment, General, factories, General, aggregates, General, quality, General, corrosion, General, paints, General, glass, Fire protection of materials, Refractories, Formwork, Lighting, Finishing materials, Test deviations, Waste, Production waste, Panels, Parquet, Lintels, Sand, Pigments, Lumber, Feeders, Plasticizers for concrete, Plasticizing additives, Plates, Coatings, Polymer equipment, Polymers, Flooring, Floors, Pressing equipment, Devices, Devices, Purlins, Design, Production, Anti-frost additives, Fire-fighting equipment, Others, Others, concrete, Others, putties, Others, paints, Others, equipment, Types of wood, Destruction of materials, Mortar, Crossbars, Piles, Piling equipment, Welding , Welding equipment, Properties, Properties of concrete, Properties of binders, Properties of rock, Properties of stones, Properties of materials, Properties of cement, Seismic, Warehouses, Hardware, Dry mixtures, Resins, Glass, Construction chemicals, Building materials, Superplasticizers, Drying equipment , Drying, Drying, woodworking, Raw materials, Theory and calculation of structures, Thermal equipment, Thermal properties of materials, Thermal insulation materials, Thermal insulation properties of materials, Thermal and damp treatment of concrete, Safety precautions, Technologies, Concreting technologies, Ceramic technologies, Pipes, Plywood, Trusses, Fiber , Foundations, Fittings, Cement, Workshops, Slags, Grinding equipment, Putties, Veneer, Plastering equipment, Noise, Crushed stone, Economy, Enamels, Emulsions, Power equipment

Source: Encyclopedia of terms, definitions and explanations of building materials

Encyclopedia of terms, definitions and explanations of building materials. - Kaliningrad. Edited by V.P. Lozhkin. 2015-2016.

construction_materials.academic.ru

(Bulgarian language; Български) - dolna plane on the foundation

(Czech language; Čeština) - základová spára

(German; Deutsch) - Fundamentsohle

(Hungarian language; Magyar) - alaptest alsó síkja

(Mongolian language) - Suuriin st

(Polish language; Polska) - podstawa fundamentu

(Romanian language; Român) - talpă de fundaţie

(Serbo-Croatian language; Srpski jezik; Hrvatski jezik) - temeljna stopa

(Spanish; Español) - superficie inferior de un cimiento; plano inferior de un cimiento

(English language; English) - foundation bed; foundation base

(French; Français) - lit de fondation; base de fondation

Source: Construction Terminology Dictionary in 12 languages

Construction dictionary.

• FOOT FOOT
• EMERGENCY REPLACEMENT

dic.academic.ru

1.3.B Shape and size of the foundation base

The shape can be any (round, ring, polygonal, square, rectangular, ribbon, tab, cross-shaped and more complex shape), but, as a rule, it repeats the shape of the structure resting on it.

The area of ​​the sole can be preliminarily determined from the condition:

PII ≤ R, where

PII – average pressure under the base of the foundation from the main combination of design loads when calculating by deformations;

R is the calculated resistance of the foundation soil, determined by the SNiP formula.

Rice. 10.12. Design diagram of a centrally loaded foundation.

The reactive diagram of soil resistance when calculating rigid foundations is assumed to be rectangular. Then from the equilibrium equation:

The difficulty is that both parts of the expression contain the required geometric dimensions of the foundation. But in preliminary calculations, the weight of the soil and foundation in ABCD is replaced approximately by:

γm – average value of the specific gravity of the foundation and soil on its ledges; γm=20 kN/m3;

d – foundation depth, m.

Required area of ​​the foundation base.

Then the width of the sole (b):

a) in the case of a strip foundation; A=b·1p.m.:

b) in the case of a columnar square foundation; A=b2:

c) in the case of a columnar rectangular foundation:

We set the ratio of the length of the foundation (l) to its width (b) (since the foundation follows the outline of the structure resting on it).

c) in the case of a columnar circular foundation:

b = D – foundation diameter.

After preliminary selection of the width of the foundation base b=f(Ro), it is necessary to clarify the calculated soil resistance – R=f(b, φ, c, d, γ).

Knowing the exact R. Determine b again. The steps are repeated until the two expressions give the same values ​​for R and b.

After that. How the size of the foundation was selected, taking into account the modularity and unification of structures, the actual pressure on the soil at the base of the foundation is checked.

The closer the PII value is to R, the more economical the solution.

With this test we verify the possibility of calculation using the linear theory of soil deformation.

If the condition is not met, then the calculation must be carried out using a nonlinear theory, which significantly complicates it.

1.3.V. Eccentrically loaded foundations

These are foundations in which the resultant of external loads (forces) does not pass through the center of gravity of its base.

The pressure on the ground along the base of an eccentrically loaded foundation is assumed to vary according to a linear law, and its boundary values ​​are determined using the eccentric compression formulas.

Considering that,

We arrive at a form more convenient for calculation:

e – eccentricity of the resultant sole relative to the center of gravity;

b – size of the foundation base in the plane of action of the moment.

Rice. 10.13. Diagrams of pressure under the base of the foundation under the action of an eccentric load.

They try not to allow a two-digit plot, because in this case, a separation of the foundation from the ground occurs.

Since, in the case of eccentric loading, the maximum pressure on the foundation acts only under the edge of the foundation, when selecting the dimensions of the foundation base, the pressure can be taken to be 20% greater than the calculated soil resistance, i.e.

In cases where the point of application of the resultant external forces is displaced relative to both axes of the foundation (Figure 10.14), the pressure under its corner points is found using the formula:

Rice. 10.14. eccentric loading of the foundation relative to two main axes of inertia:

a – displacement of resultant external forces; b – arrangement of an asymmetrical foundation.

Since in this case the maximum pressure will be only at one point of the foundation base, its value is allowed to satisfy the condition:

But at the same time the following conditions are checked:

;- on the most loaded part.

studfiles.net

How deep should the foundation be? how to calculate the foundation correctly

The foundation is the foundation of your home. The way you make the foundation is the way your house will be. If you do not correctly calculate the foundation for the house, then it will not stand for long.

In this article you will find the necessary information about foundations:

• how to properly make a foundation for a house,
• at what depth to lay it,
• how to calculate the width of the foundation base,
• what load the foundation of the building can withstand and much more.

The most common foundations are: strip, columnar, slab and their derivatives.

The purpose of any foundation is to withstand the load from a building or structure, distribute it and transfer the load to the base (soil).

If the soil cannot withstand the load from the building (swampy area), then before starting construction of the foundation, you can partially replace the soil with a more durable one, for example, fill it with granulated slag (which turns into concrete over time), or use piles.

The choice of a particular foundation mainly depends on the type of soil and the depth of groundwater.

The foundation base is the bottom plane of the foundation that rests on the ground.

The depth of the foundation is defined as the distance from the surface of the earth (soil) to the base of the foundation. Basically, the depth of the foundation depends on two factors: the groundwater level and the depth of soil freezing.

If all the nuances and subtleties are taken into account when laying the foundation, this will affect the durability of the building above!

Remember that the cost of laying a foundation ranges from 15 to 25% or more, depending on the type of soil, its freezing and the depth of groundwater.

If you save on the foundation in the wrong place, then redoing it and eliminating errors will be very expensive, and in some cases (as practice shows) impossible!

Preparatory work. Marking the foundation.

We prepare the site in the place where the future house will stand. We clear the area of ​​bushes and trees. If the top layer consists of good fertile soil, then it can be removed and transferred to a place where it will not interfere.

It is advisable to divert surface water (sediment) to the side so as not to flood the construction site.

The marking of the foundation begins with a breakdown of the house plan in kind. The project (on the general plan) usually indicates what the house needs to be connected to. Most often, the house is tied to the road or to neighboring buildings.

First of all, we mark where the outer walls of the house will be located. For marking, it is best to use wooden or metal pegs and a nylon cord.

So: we mark the outline of the building and hammer pegs in the corners.

Then you need to make a cast-off around the future building. Cast-offs make construction incredibly easier in the early stages! If you don’t want to put it, then you don’t have to put it, you’ll still do everything right. But, as practice shows, cast-offs significantly save time during further laying of the foundation and construction of the basement.

A cast-off is two pegs to which a board is nailed edgewise.

For convenience, we drive the cast-off at a distance from the edge of the future pit, at a distance of 2 to 5 m. In such a way that the cast-off does not interfere with the operation of heavy equipment:

• an excavator that will dig a pit,
• an assembly crane that will install foundation blocks and slabs.
• normal mixer entrance and the like.

Sometimes the cast-off is done completely - around the entire perimeter of the house, but this is not entirely convenient. The best option is to make a cast-off from small elements similar to a small bench.

The cast-off is usually placed in such a way that all axes can be marked on it.

Cast-off height - most often we do it 500 - 600 mm above the ground. It can be made higher, for example 100 - 150 mm higher than the future floor of the first floor.

Some people neglect the axes and use the edges of the building’s outer walls (or main walls) as a basis. I don’t recommend doing this, as you can easily make a mistake.

If you mark everything from the AXES, you will never go wrong.

When the axes intersect each other, a right angle (90 degrees) is formed. If you neglect the right angle, you will end up with a crooked house. This will come out when installing the roof and floors. Visually, you can see that the house is not built evenly (without a right angle), first of all, this can be seen on the roof of the house!

How to easily make a right angle - to check the angles, you can use the “Egyptian Triangle”. From the intersection of the axes we put 3 m in one direction and in the other direction from the intersection of the axes (perpendicular) we put 4 m (you can tie a knot or a piece of wire). After this, connect the first and last nodes with a tape measure, you should get 5 m (the square of the hypotenuse).

If it is difficult to check the right angle, then the best option is to measure the diagonals. The diagonals must be the same size.

Site layout - it is advisable to “shoot” the site using a level and find out the lowest and highest points (site layout) and take one of the marks as the original one. Thanks to the site layout, you will know in which place you need to dig more and in which less.

If you don’t have a level, you can use a regular hydraulic level (a thin, transparent hose filled with water). We make a mark on the castoff board with a pencil (or hammer a nail) and transfer this mark using a hydraulic level to other castoffs. The result is a horizontal plane around the perimeter from which you can measure the depth of the pit or trench.

When we measure the depth of a pit (or trench) from a horizontal plane, then the pit itself below will have a flat (horizontal) surface. In other words, the bottom of the pit will be level.

So: we lay off the edges of the future foundation parallel to the axes on both sides. We stretch two nylon cords along the edges of the foundation and transfer them to the ground using ordinary sand. That is, we sprinkle sand with our hands directly onto the nylon cord and the outline of the outer and inner edges of the foundation appears on the ground (on the ground).

Then we wind up the nylon cords so that they do not interfere with digging.

The cast-offs are completely removed only after the builders have built the basement of the house.

Excavation.

Pits (trenches) are most often dug with an excavator. The shape of the pit (trench) depends on the type of soil and its depth. In dense, non-flowing soils, the walls of the trenches are usually vertical (if the trenches are not deep and the groundwater is far from the base of the foundation) and they are used instead of formwork.

Trench depth without formwork:

• The maximum depth of a trench with smooth vertical walls in gravelly and sandy soils is 1 m.
• The maximum depth of a trench with smooth vertical walls in sandy loam is 1.25 m.
• The maximum depth of a trench with smooth vertical walls in clays and loams is 1.5 m.

If it is necessary to dig a trench deeper than the dimensions indicated above, then it is necessary to additionally install formwork to strengthen the walls of the trench or dig trenches with slopes.

When laying columnar foundations, square or round holes are most often dug. Round-shaped pits with vertical walls are best resistant to the collapse of soil walls. Even in a more aggressive environment, when the groundwater level is high, the walls of round-shaped pits are more resistant to collapse.

Foundation holes and trenches must be protected from surface water runoff. If water flows from the site into trenches (pits), the base becomes limp, liquefies and loses its bearing capacity.

Surface water can be drained by making ditches, dumps and the like.

To prevent the slopes of the trench from collapsing and the foundation from becoming limp from precipitation, it is necessary to lay the foundation immediately after digging the soil. That is, if you dug a trench, then you immediately need to make a foundation.

Sometimes we dig trenches under half the house. We fill the grillage, install the blocks above ground level and fill the gaps between the blocks. Then we dig the second (remaining) half of the trenches and complete the foundation completely. We use this method when it is necessary to build a large house on a small plot.

Since the plot is small, and the future house is large, there is simply nowhere to put the land!

If you have dug a trench (pit) and decided not to lay the foundation immediately, but after some time, then it is best not to completely dig the trench to the design marks of 10 - 15 centimeters. This unexcavated soil will protect the bottom of the trench from soaking and deterioration of the load-bearing soil (during precipitation).

Immediately before laying the foundation, the unexcavated soil is cleared to the required marks.

Under no circumstances should you add excavated soil back into the trench (in places where you accidentally overfilled it)! If you add more soil, you will end up with bulk soil in this area. Due to the fact that soil was added to the trench, there will be uneven shrinkage of the foundation and the house may burst.

In places where soil is accidentally overloaded, the hole can be filled with sand (no more than 100 mm), crushed stone, gravel and compacted well. Also, in places where soil is being removed, the hole in the trench can be filled with brickwork or filled with concrete (the best option).

Depth of foundations.

Many developers mistakenly believe that the deeper the foundation is laid, the better. Developers believe that if the base of the foundation is below the soil freezing level, this will ensure reliable operation of the foundation.

Indeed, if the base of the foundation is below the freezing level of the soil, then the forces of frost heaving can no longer put pressure on the foundation from the bottom up, that is, lift the foundation. However, we should not forget about the lateral tangential frost heaving of the soil, which acts on the side surfaces of the foundation.

Lateral tangential frost heaving of the soil can tear the foundation out of the ground, separating its upper part from the lower. This happens if the foundation is made of brick, stone or small blocks, especially under light houses (wooden houses, lightweight frame houses, etc.).

In order to avoid the destruction of the foundation (made of brick, stone or small blocks) on heaving soils, it is necessary not only to lay the foundation for a residential building below the soil freezing level, but also to extinguish the forces of lateral tangential frost heaving of the soil.

To do this, you can insulate the blind area with expanded clay, polystyrene foam or pumpan.

If you do not make an insulated blind area, then you can tie the walls of the foundation (made of brick, stone or small blocks) using a metal frame. The frame is laid over the entire height of the foundation, connecting the lower and upper parts to each other.

You don’t have to use a metal frame; then the foundation walls need to be laid out wide at the bottom and gradually tapering towards the top. This will significantly weaken the forces of lateral tangential frost heaving of the soil.

1- inclined walls of rubble masonry; 2 - backing brick masonry; 3 - core made of reinforced concrete; 4 - concrete; 5 - future base; 6 - backfilling with soil; 7 - reinforced concrete slab, support; 8 - concrete slab; 9 - fittings; U.P.G. - level of soil freezing.

When constructing buildings and structures on steeply sloping terrain, it is necessary to take into account possible shear and lateral soil pressure. The magnitude of lateral soil pressure depends on many factors (type of soil, how steep the slope is, etc.) and therefore it is quite difficult to calculate.

The most reliable foundation on steeply falling terrain is a strip foundation, because it is rigidly connected to each other in the transverse and longitudinal directions.

A columnar foundation on steeply sloping terrain must be rigidly tied at the top. For connection it is better to use a reinforced concrete monolithic belt, then all the structural elements of the foundation will work as a single whole.

To determine the depth of the foundation, you need to know three main indicators:

1. Soil freezing level.
2. The height of groundwater.
3. The composition (type) of the load-bearing soil on which the foundation of the house (building, structure) will be located.

If in winter the groundwater is more than 2 m below the soil freezing level, then for many soils (fine and silty sands, hard clay soils) the foundation depth is calculated without taking into account the soil freezing level.

In other words, the groundwater level is far from the freezing level of the soil (more than 2 m), respectively, the soil is relatively dry and will not heave. This will significantly reduce the cost of building the foundation!

And if the groundwater is close to the level of soil freezing (up to 2 m), then the soil (clay soils, fine and dusty sands) is saturated with water and will swell in frost. Therefore, when groundwater is close, the soil is wet. The foundation must be laid taking into account soil freezing, that is, the base of the foundation should be no higher (preferably slightly below) the level of soil freezing.

Minimum foundation depth.

The minimum depth of the foundation base in dry soils (fine and coarse sands, hard clays) is 0.7 m.

The minimum depth of the foundation base in wet soils (fine and silty sands, plastic clay soils, subsidence loess-like loams) is 1.2 m.

The minimum depth of the foundation base for a house that has a basement. The base of the foundation is laid below the floor level in the basement by at least - 0.4 m.

Table 3.1 At what depth should the foundation be laid.

To determine the level of soil freezing in your area, you can use the map (see below).

How to independently determine the groundwater level and soil composition.

Determining the groundwater level is quite simple: you need to dig a hole - a well - on the construction site (on which the future house will stand). The size of the well is approximately 1 meter by 1 meter and a depth of about 2.5 -3 m.

The pit well must be protected from the flow of surface water and sediment into it. You can get the most reliable information about groundwater levels in the fall or spring, when the groundwater level is highest.

To reduce the cost of digging a hole, you can dig it, for example, in the place where the basement will be.

Thanks to the pit well, you will find out not only the groundwater level, but also the composition of the soil.

Most often, the top layer is the fertile layer; it is usually removed, since it does not settle evenly due to the rotting of organic residues (plants, roots) and the house may burst. The fertile layer is easy to recognize as it is darker. The thickness of the fertile layer is from 100 to 1000 mm or more.

Beneath the fertile top layer is the natural underlying soil. This soil (natural underlying) is load-bearing and takes the load from the base of the foundation and the building above it.

If the natural underlying soils are medium and coarse sand, gravelly, then this is a reliable foundation for your home. The minimum foundation depth in such soils is 0.5 m.

If the natural underlying soils are silty and fine sands, sandy loams, clays, loams, it is necessary to take into account the groundwater level. When the groundwater level is high, the bearing capacity of these soils decreases.

If the natural underlying soils are loess-like loams, then with low humidity they can take quite large loads. When the groundwater level is high, loess-like loams can sag even from their own weight. How to distinguish this not very reliable soil from others?

Quite simple - it needs to be lowered into water. Unlike ordinary clay soils, loess-like loam disintegrates in water much faster.

How to calculate the width of the foundation base.

All soils can take the load from a private residential building standing above (except for silt and peat bogs). Individual houses are relatively small in size and weight.

If the bearing capacity of the soil is weak, then it is necessary to increase the area of ​​the foundation base to reduce the pressure on the soil. The larger the area of ​​the foundation base, the less pressure on the ground.

b) Type of load-bearing soil - all soils are different and have different load-bearing capacities. Once you know the type of soil on which your future home will stand, you can determine the load-bearing capacity of this soil using Table 4.1 (see below).

For example, rocky soils have the highest bearing capacity: 5.0 - 6.0 kg/cm2, and plastic clays have a weak bearing capacity: 1.0 - 3.0 kg/cm2.

Table 4.1 Calculated soil resistances and their types.

So: when the total weight of the building is known and what load the soil can take (per square centimeter), we calculate the area of ​​​​the base of the foundation.

Everything is done very simply and for clarity, let's look at an example - how to determine the width of the foundation base (the area of ​​the foundation base) for a two-story residential building.

Example: A two-story residential building 12 meters by 12 meters. A house without a basement.

1) Determine the total weight of the building, counting everything in centimeters and kilograms:

a) Determine the weight of the roof of the house:

• The roof is wooden, light, so it will weigh relatively little, about 3,000 kg.
• The roof is metal tile, weighs approximately 800 kg.
• The snow and wind load is not very large and we will take approximately 2000 kg.

Total: total roof weight is approximately 5,800 kg

b) Determine the weight of the house box:

• - Approximately 15,000 facing bricks will be used for this house. One brick weighs, say, 4 kilograms.
• 15,000 pcs 4 kg = 60,000 kg.
• - Approximately 2,500 shell rocks will go to the house. One block of shell rock weighs approximately 15 kg.
• 2500 pcs 15 kg = 80,700 kg.
• - For main walls, partitions and non-foldings, approximately 12,000 pieces of red single brick will be used. One red brick weighs about 3.8 kg.
• 12,000 pieces 3.8 kg = 45,600 kg.
• - Covering the house, first and second floors - 34 round hollow-core reinforced concrete slabs. Slab size 6 m by 1.2. One slab weighs approximately 2,200 kg.
• 34 pcs 2,200 kg = 74,800 kg.
• - Mortar for brick and shell rock, screed (on the second floor), finishing (plaster) will weigh approximately - 63,000 kg.
• - Furniture (on the second floor) and equipment will weigh approximately 5,000 kg.

Total: the total weight of the house box will be about 329,100 kg.

c) Determine the weight of the base and foundation:

• - Approximately 6,500 bricks will be used for the base. One brick weighs about 3.8 kg.
• 6,500 pcs. 3.8 kg = 24,700 kg.
• - There will be about 20 foundation blocks (five) (two rows of blocks). One block weighs about 1,600 kg.
• 40 pcs 1,600 kg = 64,000 kg.
• - A concrete grillage will weigh about 15,840 kg.
• - Mortar for bricks and installation of blocks requires about 0.52 m3. One m3 of solution weighs about 2,000 kg.
• 0.52 m3 2000 kg = 1040 kg.
• - The reinforcement in the reaming will weigh about 500 kg.

Total: the total weight of the base and foundation will be about 106,080 kg.

The total weight of the building will be approximately 440,980 kg. That is, this weight (441 tons) will put pressure on the ground.

2) Calculate the width of the sole (sole area) of the foundation.

Let’s assume that the width of the base of the foundation (grillage) is the same as the width of the block, namely 50 cm. The perimeter length is 4,800 cm

4,800 cm 50 cm = 240,000 cm2 (area of ​​support of the house on the ground).

For example, the soil on which a house weighing 440,980 kg will rest is plastic clay. For example, plastic clay can absorb 2 kg per square centimeter.

240,000 cm2 2 kg = 480,000 kg/cm2 - the weight that the soil can bear (plastic clay).

So: our building weighing 440,989 kg presses on the ground (plastic clay). The area of ​​support of the building on the ground is 240,000 cm2. The bearing capacity of the soil is 480,000 kg/cm2.

480,000 kg/cm2 - 440,989 kg = 39,011 kg - safety factor.

The width of the foundation base (grillage) is 50 cm.

Conclusion:

The width of the foundation base is 500 mm. This building, weighing 441 tons, can easily support the soil (plastic clay). The safety factor is 39 tons, that is, the load on the ground can be further increased (if necessary) to 39 tons.

Let's summarize. Today, thanks to the article, you learned: how to make markings for the foundation, how to calculate the depth of the foundation, what load it can withstand, what width of the foundation base should be made, how to determine the groundwater level and much more.

You received a huge amount of useful and practical information. What do you think about this article and what else could you add?

stroy-bloks.ru

the base of the foundation is... What is the base of the foundation?

English-Russian dictionary of technical terms. 2005.

• ledge toe
• bottom well

See what a “foundation base” is in other dictionaries:

The base of the foundation is the lower plane of the foundation that transfers the load to the base. [SNiP I 2] The base of the foundation is the lower plane of the foundation, which is in direct contact with the base and transfers the load to it. [Terminological dictionary on... ... Encyclopedia of terms, definitions and explanations of building materials

base of the foundation - The lower plane of the foundation, directly in contact with the base and transferring the load to it [Terminological dictionary of construction in 12 languages ​​(VNIIIS Gosstroy USSR)] Topics elements of buildings and structures EN foundation... ... Technical Translator's Guide

OUTSOLE - OUTSOLE, soles, women. 1. The lower part of the shoe is made of thick leather, shaped like the foot. Welt sole. || Bottom of foot. 2. Bottom surface, base of something (tech.). The base of the foundation. Rail base. ❖ The bottom of the mountain is the place where... ... Ushakov’s Explanatory Dictionary

Sole - The bottom plane of the foundation in contact with the subgrade. (Terms of Russian architectural heritage. Pluzhnikov V.I., 1995) ... Architectural Dictionary

Sole is the conventional name for the underground part of the foundation of a blast furnace ... Encyclopedic Dictionary of Metallurgy

FOUNDATION - an underground or underwater part of a structure that transfers to its soil foundation the static load created by the weight of the structure, and additional dynamic loads created by the wind or the movement of water, people, equipment or ... ... Collier's Encyclopedia

Foundations are a structural element of a building that ensures the transfer of concentrated loads to the ground, reaching 15,000 kN and above. There are different foundations for frame buildings on a natural foundation and in the form of piles. Foundations on natural... ... Encyclopedia of terms, definitions and explanations of building materials

GEORGE THE VICTORIOUS GREAT MARTYR CHURCH IN Kyiv - one of the first along with Ts. St. Irene monastery churches in the city. About the creation of a church by Yaroslav the Wise in the name of his heavenly patron, Great Martyr. St. George the Victorious is said in a chronicle article of 1037, giving a general assessment of the temple-building and... ... Orthodox Encyclopedia

FOUNDATIONS OF STRUCTURES - a mass of soil that directly bears the loads from the structure. O. s. can be natural if the base of the foundation rests on natural. unstabilized soil, and artificial, when in the presence of weak soil the latter transforms into ... Big Encyclopedic Polytechnic Dictionary

Holy Cross Cathedral (Solikamsk) - Cultural heritage of the Russian Federation, object ... Wikipedia

dic.academic.ru

the base of the foundation is... What is the base of the foundation?

Large English-Russian and Russian-English dictionary. 2001.

• ledge toe
• plantar water

See what a “foundation base” is in other dictionaries:

The base of the foundation is the lower plane of the foundation that transfers the load to the base. [SNiP I 2] The base of the foundation is the lower plane of the foundation, which is in direct contact with the base and transfers the load to it. [Terminological dictionary on... ... Encyclopedia of terms, definitions and explanations of building materials

base of the foundation - The lower plane of the foundation, directly in contact with the base and transferring the load to it [Terminological dictionary of construction in 12 languages ​​(VNIIIS Gosstroy USSR)] Topics elements of buildings and structures EN foundation... ... Technical Translator's Guide

SOLE OF THE FOUNDATION - the lower plane of the foundation, directly in contact with the base and transferring the load to it (Bulgarian language; Български) is the lowest plane on the foundation (Czech language; Čeština) základová spára (German language; Deutsch) Fundamentsohle... ... Construction Dictionary

OUTSOLE - OUTSOLE, soles, women. 1. The lower part of the shoe is made of thick leather, shaped like the foot. Welt sole. || Bottom of foot. 2. Bottom surface, base of something (tech.). The base of the foundation. Rail base. ❖ The bottom of the mountain is the place where... ... Ushakov’s Explanatory Dictionary

Sole - The bottom plane of the foundation in contact with the subgrade. (Terms of Russian architectural heritage. Pluzhnikov V.I., 1995) ... Architectural Dictionary

Sole is the conventional name for the underground part of the foundation of a blast furnace ... Encyclopedic Dictionary of Metallurgy

FOUNDATION - an underground or underwater part of a structure that transfers to its soil foundation the static load created by the weight of the structure, and additional dynamic loads created by the wind or the movement of water, people, equipment or ... ... Collier's Encyclopedia

Foundations are a structural element of a building that ensures the transfer of concentrated loads to the ground, reaching 15,000 kN and above. There are different foundations for frame buildings on a natural foundation and in the form of piles. Foundations on natural... ... Encyclopedia of terms, definitions and explanations of building materials

GEORGE THE VICTORIOUS GREAT MARTYR CHURCH IN Kyiv - one of the first along with Ts. St. Irene monastery churches in the city. About the creation of a church by Yaroslav the Wise in the name of his heavenly patron, Great Martyr. St. George the Victorious is said in a chronicle article of 1037, giving a general assessment of the temple-building and... ... Orthodox Encyclopedia

FOUNDATIONS OF STRUCTURES - a mass of soil that directly bears the loads from the structure. O. s. can be natural if the base of the foundation rests on natural. unstabilized soil, and artificial, when in the presence of weak soil the latter transforms into ... Big Encyclopedic Polytechnic Dictionary

Holy Cross Cathedral (Solikamsk) - Cultural heritage of the Russian Federation, object ... Wikipedia

dic.academic.ru

foundation sole - from Russian to Turkish

The base of the foundation is the lower plane of the foundation that transfers the load to the base. [SNiP I 2] The base of the foundation is the lower plane of the foundation, which is in direct contact with the base and transfers the load to it. [Terminological dictionary on... ... Encyclopedia of terms, definitions and explanations of building materials

base of the foundation - The lower plane of the foundation, directly in contact with the base and transferring the load to it [Terminological dictionary of construction in 12 languages ​​(VNIIIS Gosstroy USSR)] Topics elements of buildings and structures EN foundation... ... Technical Translator's Guide

SOLE OF THE FOUNDATION - the lower plane of the foundation, directly in contact with the base and transferring the load to it (Bulgarian language; Български) is the lowest plane on the foundation (Czech language; Čeština) základová spára (German language; Deutsch) Fundamentsohle... ... Construction Dictionary

OUTSOLE - OUTSOLE, soles, women. 1. The lower part of the shoe is made of thick leather, shaped like the foot. Welt sole. || Bottom of foot. 2. Bottom surface, base of something (tech.). The base of the foundation. Rail base. ❖ The bottom of the mountain is the place where... ... Ushakov’s Explanatory Dictionary

Sole - The bottom plane of the foundation in contact with the subgrade. (Terms of Russian architectural heritage. Pluzhnikov V.I., 1995) ... Architectural Dictionary

Sole is the conventional name for the underground part of the foundation of a blast furnace ... Encyclopedic Dictionary of Metallurgy

FOUNDATION - an underground or underwater part of a structure that transfers to its soil foundation the static load created by the weight of the structure, and additional dynamic loads created by the wind or the movement of water, people, equipment or ... ... Collier's Encyclopedia

Foundations are a structural element of a building that ensures the transfer of concentrated loads to the ground, reaching 15,000 kN and above. There are different foundations for frame buildings on a natural foundation and in the form of piles. Foundations on natural... ... Encyclopedia of terms, definitions and explanations of building materials

GEORGE THE VICTORIOUS GREAT MARTYR CHURCH IN Kyiv - one of the first along with Ts. St. Irene monastery churches in the city. About the creation of a church by Yaroslav the Wise in the name of his heavenly patron, Great Martyr. St. George the Victorious is said in a chronicle article of 1037, giving a general assessment of the temple-building and... ... Orthodox Encyclopedia

FOUNDATIONS OF STRUCTURES - a mass of soil that directly bears the loads from the structure. O. s. can be natural if the base of the foundation rests on natural. unstabilized soil, and artificial, when in the presence of weak soil the latter transforms into ... Big Encyclopedic Polytechnic Dictionary

Holy Cross Cathedral (Solikamsk) - Cultural heritage of the Russian Federation, object ... Wikipedia

translate.academic.ru