How to properly insulate a ceiling made of boards. Insulating the ceiling in a house with a cold roof - tips for choosing insulation

Today, even in small sheds and seasonal country houses there is electric and gas equipment, which generates heat, making our lives more comfortable. Those buildings that are intended for temporary use are insulated with relatively inexpensive material.

In residential buildings it is a completely different story. Insulation of the ceiling in a house with cold roof This is done to prevent heat from escaping from living spaces.

Choosing a roof begins with how the future building will be used and what it is intended for.

This is interesting: in cottages or country houses, cold and warm roofing can be used at the same time.

Warm roofing is used to insulate the ceiling in a private house. This is a design that provides complete insulation of slopes. If the house is heated daily, then with this roof the heat will not escape due to the slopes. But it is worth remembering that this type is quite expensive.

The cold type of roofing is structured completely differently. The standard scheme for laying materials is as follows:

  • waterproofing;
  • thermal insulation;
  • roof.

This design is done on buildings where people will not live. The advantages of this roof are that it is lightweight and very inexpensive. With a cold roof, you can insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands without much difficulty. Therefore, this type is considered as the most convenient and cheap way organizing a roof for an unheated building.

This is interesting: if there is no heating in the attic, then convection occurs, which gradually cools the incoming air from the premises and prevents the slopes from icing.

What are the advantages of insulating the ceiling under the roof?

To know how to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof, it is important to consider all its positive aspects:

  • additional sound insulation;
  • helps to establish the constancy of the room climate, since it does not allow warm air to enter in the summer;
  • in winter it will not allow air to escape from the house.

Insulating the ceiling in a wooden house on your own is very difficult, so it is better to hire specialists for this purpose.

Before building your house, you need to know for sure that the better the house is insulated, the less you will have to spend on heating equipment. This will significantly enrich your budget.

Installation is carried out using two methods:

  • from the floor below;
  • from the attic side.

The best and most effective insulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house is carried out using the second method, since usually the ceiling structure is made of wood, which already has thermal insulation.

Specifics of insulation on the lower floor side

Insulation using this method is carried out when:

  • no access to the attic;
  • houses with existing attics are being remodeled.

What does installation involve:

  • creating a frame from wooden beams or metals;
  • tiled insulated material;
  • sheathing plasterboard.

The disadvantage of this method of insulation is the reduction of room space, as well as a large expenditure of time and effort.

This is interesting: to eliminate problems with heat loss with a cold roof, it is necessary to insulate all openings.

Modern materials and their characteristics

Today there are a large number of insulation materials for wooden country houses and cottages. What is the best way to insulate the ceiling and not make a mistake with the quality? What characteristics should the correct materials meet:

  • high thermal conductivity;
  • increased moisture resistance;
  • durability;
  • environmental Safety;
  • degree of flammability.

The most common insulation materials include:

  • expanded clay;
  • stale sawdust;
  • stone wool;
  • cellulose ecowool;
  • expanded polystyrene;
  • Styrofoam;
  • polyurethane.

Which insulation materials are more suitable for a wooden house?

Insulating the ceiling from the inside in the private sector requires special attention. The question of how to insulate a ceiling in a wooden house can be answered quite simply: you just need to choose the right material for insulation. To choose the material and method of its installation, it is necessary to take into account the type of floor. The insulation can be concrete or wood. The first is carried out using slabs and backfilled insulation, and the second requires rolled or backfill materials.

What natural insulation materials are used today:

  • sawdust;
  • seaweed;
  • reeds;
  • clay;
  • conifers;
  • hay;
  • old fallen leaves;
  • straw.

This is interesting: natural insulation is short-lived, because it can rot.
Sawdust insulation is effective when the thickness is correctly chosen. Sometimes, as insulation, you can use pellets - sawdust in the form of granules. To reduce the flammability of sawdust, they can be combined with fire retardants.

Method for forming thermal insulation with sawdust

The point of such insulation is to mask the cracks in the wooden floor. This is done using liquid clay. You can sprinkle sand on top to seal cracks. To prevent damage to the thermal insulation by small rodents, it is necessary to sprinkle carbide with slaked lime. Minimum thickness is about 15-20 cm.

To make sawdust more fire-resistant, it is necessary to treat it with slag, especially in the chimney areas. There is no need to lay anything on top. If necessary, you can put boards. Another way to insulate is to carry out protective procedures to prevent moisture from entering. You can walk on the surface with clay. You need to mix sawdust with cement like this:

  • sawdust (10 parts);
  • cement (2 parts);
  • water (1.5 parts).

In order for the sawdust and cement to come together firmly, they need to be thoroughly wet. This mixture must be spread over the entire floor of the attic surface with a thickness of at least 20 cm.

Preparing for ceiling insulation

Another way to insulate the ceiling of a private house using sawdust is by mixing it with clay. You just need to take into account that the mixture is not completely liquid. Otherwise, there will be leakage deep into the sawdust.

Clay has long been used as insulation, but for lightness and better durability, a combination of sawdust and clay is used:

  • Water is poured into the barrel and clay is poured in in the amount of 3-4 buckets.
  • After thorough mixing, add sawdust, water and pour everything into a concrete mixer.

In the end it should be medium density a solution that you need to spread on the ceiling and wait until everything dries. If cracks appear, they must be lubricated with clay and a vapor barrier film must be stretched.

Expanded clay is a natural, non-flammable, non-toxic material that forms an embankment of varying densities. The strongest layer is made from the smallest particles (0.4 - 1 m).

This is interesting: expanded clay is hypoallergenic and has durability and remarkable thermal properties. On the lower floor side, insulation can only be done with mineral wool.

When using expanded clay, you need to correctly calculate its weight, because if you use it to insulate wooden floors, that is, there is a risk that the flooring will fail. It is recommended to use this type of insulation only on concrete structures. To prepare, you need to clean the concrete and cover it with a vapor barrier film.

This is interesting: the film must be laid overlapping so that there are no gaps and the joints must be glued with tape.

Next, knead the clay and spread it onto a layer of film. And expanded clay is placed on top. For better thermal insulation, both small and large granules should be used. Next, a screed is made, which consists of a sand-cement mixture at least 50 mm thick with a thick consistency. The advantages of such insulation are safety and environmental friendliness.

Insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool is the most common type of insulation. They are installing the attic. Various raw materials are used in the production of mineral wool:

  • sand;
  • broken glass;
  • blast furnace slag;
  • basalt rocks.

Today, construction stores have a wide selection of insulation:

  • slag;
  • basalt wool;
  • glass wool

The negative side of mineral wool is that it is harmful to health because it emits formaldehyde resins.

Insulation of slag wool

This type of insulation is made from blast furnace slag. Slag wool is very brittle and can quickly become wet, which is why its thermal insulation characteristics can be called into question. It is at this point that acidity begins to rise. Therefore, they are not recommended to insulate a country house. The only advantage is that it is inexpensive.

Glass wool is made from molten glass mass. To expand the range, there may be another form of glass wool - mat. When installing glass wool, you must stock up on protective equipment: a suit, gloves, safety glasses and a respirator. Most often it is used to insulate attic floors. It can also be combined with other types of insulation.

Insulation of basalt wool

Basalt insulation is made from gabbro-basalt raw materials. It is used for thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside, because it is very dense.

Manufacturers often add a foil layer to basalt wool. This coating helps retain heat. Insulation is allowed from the attic side and from the lower floor.

This manufacturer produces mineral wool in several forms:

  • rigid slabs;
  • rolls.

For insulation concrete floors it is necessary to level the surface and cover it with a film coating and install the slabs. Glass fibers and minerals are used as raw materials. Next, the surface is made of plywood or wooden boards and you must not forget about screeding the slabs.

How to insulate wooden floors with URSA wool:

  • Add vapor barrier material to the spaces between the beams.
  • The film should be applied overlapping, and the resulting joints should be secured with tape.

Important: the overlap on the walls should be 150-250 mm.

Insulation with reeds and seaweed

Reed mats will be good material for thermal insulation. The material can be fastened with wire or twine. It is important that the seams are spaced apart. It is best to apply mats in 2 layers - this will completely eliminate the cold.

Seaweed is an environmentally friendly insulation material and has a number of advantages:

  • hypoallergenic;
  • beneficial properties of algae;
  • will not be damaged by small rodents;
  • does not smoke or burn;
  • not afraid of insect attacks;
  • no need to lay a vapor barrier layer;
  • installation is done directly on the floor.

Ecowool insulation

Ecowool is another name for cellulose insulation. What are the advantages of a cellulose product:

  • microorganisms do not appear on it, and mold does not appear;
  • can be laid in any thickness;
  • durability;
  • environmentally friendly material;
  • during installation, a sealed coating is formed;
  • additional sealing possible;
  • reduced percentage of flammability;
  • the material breathes, so moisture is not retained.

Installation of ecowool can be carried out in two ways:

  • The “dry” method consists of scattering the insulation with compaction. In this case, you don’t have to lay down the film.
  • The “wet” method is done using special equipment that binds cellulose with glue to the surface of the floors.

Ecowool is a natural insulation material that is absolutely safe.

This type of insulation is much stronger than standard polystyrene foam and is necessary for insulating concrete floors in the attic. However, if a private house has wooden floors, then it is better to abandon penoplex. The disadvantage is that moisture can accumulate there, which can be the initiator of mold. Before installation, the surface must be leveled. Next, foam boards are laid, which are placed staggered.

How to insulate concrete floors

To begin with, the joints formed between the plates must be treated with polyurethane foam. When all the joints are completely dry, then sand-cement screed quite thick consistency. The thickness of the layer must be no less than 50 mm. After the solution becomes solid, a solid floor surface is obtained on the second floor or attic.

conclusions

All insulation materials and their installation technologies that were discussed in this article are the most popular methods for thermal insulation. However, the list of insulation products does not end there. Construction stores have a very wide selection of insulation materials for country houses.

When choosing a material for ceiling insulation, it is important to know all the nuances of the future building. The main thing to remember is that for wooden partitions Sealed materials such as penofol and penoplex will be unsuitable. They are best used for concrete floors of houses.

For wooden houses it is best to use natural materials, which allow air to pass through and do not retain moisture. For these purposes, it is necessary to use sawdust, algae, ecological wool and reed mats. These insulation materials are environmentally friendly and do not harm human health at all.

The question of how to insulate the ceiling in a private house with a cold roof sounds quite relevant, especially for cold regions of the country.

A large amount of heat escapes through the ceiling, forcing heating devices to work harder.

According to the laws of physics warm air rises up, and the cold one, on the contrary, falls down from the ceiling. There is constant, natural cooling of the room. The roof (roof) is built over the ceiling. Its main task is to protect the house from precipitation and remove moisture when snow melts.

If no additional requirements are specified, then thermal insulation is not provided. Moreover, active ventilation is provided in the attic to prevent stagnation of humidified air, which contributes to rotting of the rafters and the formation of mold.

Thus, an uninsulated roof opens the way for heat flow from the living space. As a result significant heat losses occur. To warm up the house, you have to use additional coolant consumption. A cold ceiling is a surface on which humidified air and steam condense, which not only has a detrimental effect on ceiling covering, but also increases the humidity in the room.

Ceiling insulation is aimed at achieving the following goals:

  • maintaining heat in the house and reducing coolant costs;
  • stabilization temperature regime indoors – preventing the penetration of cold in winter and maintaining coolness in the hot season;
  • optimizing humidity inside the house, eliminating condensation on the ceiling;
  • reducing the speed of movement of air masses and the risk of drafts.

Taking into account the emerging problems, we can make an unambiguous conclusion about the need ceiling insulation. Such an event significantly increases the comfort of a private home. Most often it is carried out in country houses and dachas, where the roof is erected in an economical manner.

Roof types

Depending on the design and materials used, roofs can be of 2 types:

  1. Warm type. When making such a roof, the slope is made in the form of a “layer cake”, in which, in addition to the outer covering roofing material waterproofing and thermal insulation, and sometimes vapor barrier, are provided. In this case, the attic can be used as a living space, where normal temperature is ensured.
  2. Cold roof. This design provides only protection from precipitation and does not have thermal insulation. The roofing materials themselves have increased thermal conductivity values ​​and cannot act as insulation. As a result, a cold attic is formed, used as a storage space.

The type of roof is most often determined by economic considerations. For private houses with permanent residence, a warm roof looks preferable. Country and country houses with seasonal residence often have a second version of the roofing structure.

Specifics of a cold roof

A cold-type roof has its own characteristics and specifics. It has a simplified design, when only waterproofing and roofing are applied along the rafter sheathing. This makes it possible to make it easier and cheaper. A cold roof is a budget option private house.

The main specificity of this roof is the absence of thermal insulation on the slopes, but an air space is created under them, providing a kind of buffer zone. Air has a certain thermal resistance, which allows it to gradually cool the rising heat flow. As a result, an ice crust does not form on the inside of the roof.

The air space in the attic also reduces the effects of cold, but this is not enough to significantly reduce heat loss. The real way to retain heat inside the house is to insulate the ceiling.

The advantage of ceiling insulation

Insulation cold roof on the ceiling has a number of advantages compared to the construction of a warm roof:

  1. Reduced financial costs, because The ceiling area is significantly smaller than the area of ​​the roof slopes.
  2. Ease of installation and the possibility of using cheap materials, incl. bulk type.
  3. Preserving the air buffer zone has a beneficial effect on the durability of the ceiling materials and rafter system.
  4. Possibility of manufacturing in a house that has been in use for a long time, without dismantling the roofing elements.
  5. Creating additional comfort: eliminating noise from falling rain and hail, as well as from wind; creating a thermos effect (keeping warm in winter and cool in summer).

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling area: from the inside, from the room side or outside, from the attic. The choice in favor of a cold roof depends on the purpose of the attic. If an attic is planned on its base, then insulation will have to be done under the roofing. This is the main disadvantage of ceiling insulation - the presence of a cold attic.

Features of external insulation

Insulating the ceiling from the attic side is rightly considered the most effective way. In this case, there is a base on which thermal insulation can be laid without worrying about its fastening. Installation is very simple, due to the accessibility of the place where the material is laid. The thickness of the insulating layer is not limited either, because it does not in any way affect the height of the room in the house.

The main difficulty is that you cannot excessively increase the load on the ceiling. Most often, in a private house it is made of wooden beams on which board flooring is laid, and the wood has a limited mechanical strength. This condition dictates an important requirement for the insulation - in addition to low thermal conductivity, it must have low specific gravity.

External ceiling insulation can be provided different materials. Particularly highlighted are bulk materials with low thermal conductivity. Can be used folk remedies– straw, reeds, algae, etc. We should not forget the modern polymer thermal insulation. Table 1 shows the thermal conductivity values ​​for some materials.

Table 1. Parameters of some available materials

Thermal insulation Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/Km

Specific gravity, kg/m 3

Felt 0,033-0,052 -
Dry leaves 0,051-0,063 -
Tow 0,036-0,043 185
Moss 0,042 134
Needles 0,082 435
Compressed straw 0,051-0,065 -
cotton wool 0,035 82
Small chips 0,052-0,095 142-300
Bonfire 0,043-0,064 140-360
Peat 0,048-0,072 152
Sawdust 0,055-0,085 180-240

Insulation with bulk materials

Laying thermal insulation on the attic side makes it possible to use bulk materials. To do this, it is necessary to strengthen the ceiling covering, eliminate all cracks and lay waterproofing, and, if necessary, a vapor barrier. The most widely used materials are:

  1. Expanded clay. It is made by firing clay after it has foamed. As a result, it has a thermal conductivity in the range of 0.1-0.12 W/Km and a specific gravity of 220-400 kg/m3. For insulation, it is well suited with grains of 5-9 mm in size.
  2. Sawdust and wood shavings. These woodworking wastes are considered good thermal insulation when dry. The main task is to prevent them from getting wet. To insulate the ceiling, a layer of about 20-35 cm is required, depending on the region. To inside wood materials to prevent pests and small rodents from growing, quicklime should be added to the mass. The main disadvantage of sawdust is its flammability. To increase fire safety, they should be impregnated with fire retardants, and sprinkled on top thin layer ash or slag.

Loose insulation is usually laid in the spaces between floor beams. If their height is not enough, then you can grow them using wooden beam. Before backfilling, vapor and waterproofing is laid on the ceiling flooring.

The material is poured in layers with careful compaction. It is not recommended to lay film on top. Bulk insulation should be easily ventilated, which will prevent the formation of condensation in it.

Clay insulation

By its nature, clay is a good heat insulator. It has been used for roof insulation since ancient times. An important drawback is the heavy weight. In order to reduce it, the clay is transferred to a liquid state and straw or sawdust (shavings) is added.

The clay is applied in a layer 25-35 cm thick. After drying, it may crack. To eliminate this defect, it is recommended to pour a layer of sand 5-6 cm thick on top. Dry sand can also perform a thermal insulation function. When cracks appear in the clay, sand fills them, maintaining its insulating properties.

Insulation with reeds and straw

Dried plant stems (reeds, straw) were previously widely used to insulate the roofs of houses. Nowadays, such material seems unnecessarily antediluvian, but it also finds its admirers. Reeds are used in the form of mats, which can be made in several ways: stitching transversely or longitudinally located rows of stems, by stitching with wire staples or a continuous seam. They are laid in 2-3 layers with overlapping joints.

Straw is most often used in the form of compressed bales. They are laid in 2 layers. The total thickness of straw insulation is 30-40 cm. The main disadvantage is flammability. To eliminate it, impregnation with fire retardants is used.

Application of algae

For homes on the sea coast, algae can be an excellent ceiling insulation material. They are thoroughly dried and knitted into mats. This unusual material has such necessary properties: low thermal conductivity, increased vapor permeability and reduced water absorption, non-flammability, resistance to harmful microorganisms. Many people are attracted medicinal properties– algae can saturate the air with iodine.

Prepared algae mats are laid similarly to reed elements. The total thickness of the thermal insulation is 30-35 cm. It is recommended to lay a boardwalk on top on which you can move.

Ecowool insulation

Ecowool or cellulose wool is a fibrous material based on paper waste, i.e. cellulose. The composition may include natural binders and pigments that do not impair an important property - environmental friendliness. The material can be applied to the ceiling manually or mechanically.

There are 2 technologies for applying ecowool insulation:

  1. Wet method. The mixture is prepared in a liquid consistency with the possibility of applying it with a sprayer. Lignin is used as a binding component. The mass penetrates into all cracks and creates a monolithic coating, inside of which there are numerous air pores. Most often, a thickness of 20-26 cm is provided. In Siberian conditions, the thickness of thermal insulation increases to 45-50 cm.
  2. Dry method. With this technology, dry raw materials are poured between the floor beams and compacted.

In addition to these methods, ecowool is sometimes applied in the form of a thick solution. To do this, the dry, ready-made mixture is diluted with water and mixed thoroughly. The mortar is poured between the beams in the same way as concrete.

Application of foam plastic

Foam plastic, i.e. Foamed polymer (most often expanded polystyrene) in the form of slabs (blocks) has been recognized for several decades as one of the most effective insulation materials. Its low specific gravity makes it possible to use it for arranging a ceiling. Limits the use of the risk of releasing substances harmful to humans, which become toxic when ignited. Taking this into account, it is recommended to use it only as external insulation.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is made of slabs 10-15 cm thick. They are laid between the floor beams close to each other. The joints should be sealed with foam.

Use of mineral wool

Mineral wool as ceiling insulation is no less in demand than polystyrene foam. This is facilitated by high thermal insulation abilities and ease of installation. This fibrous material has one important drawback - hygroscopicity. Moreover, when moisture penetrates, the thermal insulation properties deteriorate sharply. This requires reliable vapor and waterproofing.

Among the fibrous (cotton) insulation materials, the following materials stand out:

  1. Mineral wool. It is based on silicon fibers.
  2. Basalt wool, made from basalt rocks. It is highly durable.
  3. Slag. The raw materials for its production are slags blast furnaces. Its main advantage is low cost. When in contact with water, it can release harmful substances and is therefore not recommended for indoor use.

Among the numerous representatives of cotton insulation, UPSA (URSA) especially stands out. This is a high-quality material, sold in rolls and slabs. The most widespread roll version, which is quickly and easily installed on the ceiling. The strips are laid between the beams with overlap and overlap on the beams in several layers. The total thickness is 10-22 cm.

Foam insulation

Currently, modern ceiling insulation technology - foam - is increasingly being used. Polyurethane foam is used for these purposes. It is delivered in two-component liquid form. By using special device the mixture is supplied under pressure to the ceiling surface.

As a result, polymerization of the material occurs and chemical reaction with highlighting large quantity gas The surface of the ceiling is covered with a uniform layer of polymer foam.

After polyurethane foam hardens, reliable thermal insulation is provided. The material has excellent water resistance, which eliminates the need to install vapor and waterproofing. An important advantage of the technology is that the polymer fills all, even hard-to-reach, places on the ceiling, which eliminates the possibility of the formation of cold bridges. The downside is the high cost.

How to properly insulate from the inside?

In some cases, it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from the attic side. For example, it is very difficult to hold such an event at a low height, i.e. low slopes of roof slopes. This circumstance dictates the need for thermal insulation of the ceiling on the room side. The problem arises of fixing the material to the ceiling.

In addition, the thickness is limited so as not to lower the ceiling excessively, and the requirements for harmlessness to humans are also increased. For insulation from the inside, modern materials that meet the specified requirements are usually used.

Penoplex insulation

For internal insulation Extruded foam is often used. It is available in rolls and in the form of slabs. Installation of thermal insulation is carried out in the following order:

  1. A lathing made of wooden beams 4-5 cm high is fixed to the ceiling surface. The installation step of the beams is 50-70 cm, depending on the width of the plastic.
  2. Penoplex is laid in the cells of the sheathing, which is fixed to the ceiling with glue. The thickness of the insulation is 3-4 cm. Penoplex should not reach the edge of the beam by 10-15 mm to form a ventilation gap.
  3. Sheathing with plasterboard or other sheet material.

When laying insulation there should be no gaps. All of them must be carefully filled with polyurethane foam or other sealing compounds. You can use a putty mixture.

Penofol thermal insulation

Another popular insulation material is penofol. He is roll material based on foamed polyethylene, the surface of which is coated with aluminum foil. Penofol is somewhat inferior to penoplex in terms of thermal insulation characteristics, but the presence of foil allows it to be used additionally as a vapor barrier.

Application to the ceiling from the inside is carried out similarly to the previous case. In this case, the foil surface should be directed towards the room. In areas with cold climates, a combination of penofol and penoplex is often used.

Insulation with plaster

In order for ordinary cement-sand plaster to act as thermal insulation, a layer of several tens of centimeters is required. Practical possibility insulation using plaster is achieved by using mixtures with special additives.

In particular, the heat-insulating mixture Akterm is recommended. Such plaster with a thickness of 1 cm is comparable to the characteristics of foam plastic with a thickness of 3-4 cm. The prevalence of plaster insulation is limited by the scarcity and high cost of the material.

Cork insulation

Cork can be considered one of the most effective ceiling insulation materials. Its low specific gravity and low thermal conductivity creates unique properties. Roll insulation in the form of a white agglomerate made of cork wood, it is fixed in the cells of the lathing.

Most often this material used when installing suspended structures (Armstrong type).

How to find out the required thickness of ceiling insulation?

The effectiveness of thermal insulation, as well as the load on the ceiling structure, depends on the correct determination of this parameter. The thickness is determined based on the required thermal protection and permissible weight.

The thickness, based on thermal insulation requirements, is assessed taking into account the standards for thermal resistance and thermal conductivity of the insulation. The first parameter is set for different regions taking into account climatic conditions.

For example, for the Middle Volga region the resistance is 4 m 2 K/W. If you use polyurethane foam with a thermal conductivity of 0.025 W/mK, then it is enough to multiply these indicators to obtain a sufficient thermal insulation thickness of 0.1 m.

For evaluation calculations, you can take into account the following value of the thermal conductivity coefficient (in W/mK):

  • mineral wool - 0.037-0.049;
  • foam plastics (expanded polystyrene) – 0.031-0.037;
  • polyurethane foam – 0.025-0.027;
  • expanded clay – 0.112;
  • ecowool – 0.035-0.043.

The weighting of the ceiling as a result of insulation is determined based on the density of the materials. Foamed polymers and ecowool, having a density in the range of 25-80 kg/m 3, are considered the lightest. One of the heaviest is expanded clay (180-350 kg/m3).

Insulation of the ceiling in the presence of a cold roof in a private house is important requirement for efficient and comfortable operation. It will keep the room warm and reduce heating costs. When installing thermal insulation with your own hands, it is important to choose the right insulation from the huge range of materials offered. You can get by traditional ways, or you can use modern insulation materials.

Private house requires high-quality insulation so that its owners do not experience the cold in winter. Insulation must be carried out “on all fronts” - the walls, the floor, and, of course, the ceiling need it. After all, heat can escape from the room different ways- the slightest crack is enough to make the inside of the house cooler, and holes and openings can be located anywhere.

In the article we will look at how to choose suitable insulation for the floor of a private house, we will find the best options for private houses made of wood, brick, as well as for frame buildings.

The meaning of the procedure

Why do we need to insulate the ceiling in the house? Perhaps it is enough that there is already a warm floor and walls protected from the cold?

The fact is that if in a high-rise building it doesn’t matter to the residents how much warm ceiling near their house, since there may be dozens of the same ones above the apartment, this issue is very relevant for the owners of a private house - no one lives above it, so the ceiling must be protected from cold and wind. That's why it's so important to choose.

How much energy you spend on heating also depends on the quality of the ceiling insulation. Coal, firewood, electricity and other heating consumables are now quite expensive, so there is no point in heating the street, and there is no benefit. And you should immediately take care of it.

In the video - insulation on the ceiling in a private house:

Insulation methods

The ceiling in a private house can be insulated in two ways - from the outside and from the inside. Learn more about each of these options based on thickness.

Outside

The fact that the insulation will be carried out in the attic, and not in the living room, will allow the area and height of the living space to remain unchanged. It is much more convenient to lay the material under your feet rather than above your head. And as a result, the coating is of high quality, without gaps and is filled directly between.

and photo insulation on the outside of the ceiling in a private house

In this case, it is necessary to protect the roof from condensation - its occurrence cannot be avoided due to temperature changes. But such insulation will not hurt.

From the inside

Insulating the ceiling of a room allows you to increase the shelf life of the material - in warm, dry and favorable conditions the material will last longer. The downside is that the height of the room will be smaller. And it’s worth deciding in advance based on reviews so that there are no difficulties with decorative cladding.

The photo shows insulation from the inside on the ceiling in a private house

Usually, the first option is chosen for work - insulation from the outside, as the most logical and profitable, and then it is easier to decide which to do.

But what kind of insulation for Energoflex water supply pipes is used is described in this article:

But what is the cost of insulation for external walls and what materials are the most popular, is described in this

Choice of insulation

What materials can serve as insulation for the ceiling. For surfaces made of wood, brick, concrete, gas silicate, universal insulation -.

Sawdust

Our ancestors used to insulate the ceiling and onion skins, and sawdust, and dry reeds and straw. Now most of these materials are already obsolete. But to this day, a special mixture of sawdust and clay is sometimes made, which is especially suitable for insulating wooden houses.

In the photo - sawdust for insulation on the ceiling

The resulting mixture is fireproof and reliably protects the home from heat loss. In addition, clay-sawdust insulation does not rot or decompose. But what is necessary will help you understand the information from this article.

Expanded clay

These loose pebbles are good for insulation attic spaces wooden houses. They are not used very often for stone and brick buildings.

In the photo - expanded clay for insulation on the ceiling

Styrofoam

This material is an excellent choice for ceiling insulation. Suitable for brick and concrete buildings. Polystyrene foam is now produced in two forms - foamed and extruded. Foam is called penoplex, extruded polystyrene foam, it has much better characteristics than the first option.

In the photo - polystyrene foam for insulation on the ceiling in a private house

Expanded polystyrene is able to withstand significant mechanical and thermal loads, has excellent vapor permeability, so there will always be an optimal microclimate in the house.

A huge advantage of polystyrene foam is that this material has high density and rigidity. This advantage allows it to avoid shrinkage. Besides foam boards lightweight, so installation can be done by one person. But what are the technical characteristics of polystyrene foam as insulation, is described in great detail in this

One of the disadvantages is that mice and other rodents love to chew on foam plastic. Sometimes this can be a real problem - no one wants to see their attic covered in mouse droppings and the ceiling chewed on. different places. But you can treat the foam with a special solution that will prevent it from harmful rodents.

Mineral wool

One of the most popular materials for ceiling insulation. It can be used both in a wooden house, and in a brick house, and in a frame one - only the thickness of the material changes - in a frame building the layer should be thicker and denser. And thickness allows you to do this.

On photo-mineral cotton wool for ceiling insulation:

The material itself is a kind of soft slab or a roll of molten fiber rock basalt mineral rocks. It has a characteristic dirty gray tint, sometimes with colored splashes. Cotton wool has a fibrous structure and can generate dust during installation.

The material is inexpensive and has good technical characteristics. The disadvantage of mineral wool is that, due to its soft fibrous structure, it can shrink over time, which reduces its operational properties. In addition, cotton wool is afraid of dampness.

Mineral wool is easy to use, easy to install in any space, takes a convenient shape, compresses to required sizes. Available in any form - it can be in rolls, or in slabs and mats, and is also suitable for large rooms. Absolutely non-flammable, does not even smolder. Therefore for wooden buildings This is an ideal insulation option.

Moisture is dangerous for cotton wool. Even small drops of water falling into the material will be enough for it to sag significantly, thereby exposing the ceiling space. But what are the differences between basalt fiber and mineral wool and how to make it right choice, is described in this

Penofol

Modern insulation, which is a rolled material consisting of several layers. One of the outermost layers is always foil. Penofol is a rather expensive material, one of the most expensive on the modern market. But it reliably protects the house from the cold. Suitable even for frame buildings that are not too warm. But you can additionally use it like .

In the photo - penofol for ceiling insulation:

The material is thin, but its layered structure allows penofol to perfectly retain heat inside the house. The foil coating makes the material moisture-proof and fireproof. But how to glue penofol to concrete and how this can be done most effectively will help you understand the information

Disadvantage: penofol is a material that is not rigid enough, which in some cases can be a hindrance.

Ecowool

This modern material belongs to the sprayed types of insulation. The foam structure, which is applied in liquid form, is capable of filling all the smallest cracks and holes, which creates an excellent heat-insulating layer on the ceiling. Glass wool contains cellulose, borax and boric acid. Chemical reagents are used to make cellulose non-flammable and resistant to dampness and mold.

In the photo - ecowool for the ceiling:

If you are thinking of choosing this method of insulation, it is better to contact specialists who will bring professional equipment with them. Buying it is not very profitable - insulation can be unreasonably expensive.

A big plus of ecowool is that with high-quality spraying, not a single centimeter of the ceiling will be left without protection. In this case, cold bridges are completely eliminated.

The disadvantages include the vapor permeability of the material. Additional vapor barrier is required, which will also cost a certain amount. If you make insulation with ecowool without a vapor barrier, then over time, the steam that cannot escape can lead to increased humidity and the appearance of fungus and mold. And the microclimate in a “non-breathing” house can hardly be called favorable. The latest ecowool options can accumulate moisture, so they do not require a vapor barrier. Check this question with the seller when purchasing the material.

How colder winter in the region, the thicker the spray layer should be. The required parameters are indicated on the product packaging.

Experts recommend choosing insulation based on the material from which the house is built. If the building is made entirely of environmentally friendly wood, then using chemical polyurethane foam as insulation is not very environmentally friendly. Therefore, in this case, natural materials are better suited. But for stone and concrete, modern artificial insulation fit best.

In addition to the listed materials, you can also use cork, gypsum and cement-sawdust mixtures for ceiling insulation, plaster mixtures, even dry reeds, seaweed and other methods.

Manufacturers and prices

Let's consider what brands of Russian and foreign manufacturers can offer us high-quality insulation materials for the ceiling.

Rockwool

Mineral wool of this brand deserves the attention of all owners of brick and wooden buildings. It has high quality characteristics and is quite reasonably priced. The price of a package of 10 slabs measuring 1000 cm x 50 mm is 753 rubles.

On photo insulation ceiling using Rockwool insulation:

Izover

Fiberglass insulation rolls of this brand can even be used for houses made of foam block and concrete. Also suitable for brick and wooden buildings. The company produces several types of insulation that allow you to make optimal choice in each specific case. Among other advantages, it is necessary to note the improved technical characteristics of the insulation. The material is non-flammable, quite dense, and has a universal purpose.

The photo shows ceiling insulation using Izover insulation:

Cost – 840 rubles per roll 4 meters long and 1220 cm wide. Material thickness – 150 mm. The aluminum-coated option costs about twice as much as the regular one.

Ursa

Mineral wool with noise protection - inexpensive and high quality - is what this company is famous for on the Russian market. Cotton wool is suitable for insulating houses made of any material. In addition to wool, the manufacturer also offers us high-quality fiberglass boards. The material is non-flammable, has high coefficient compressibility.

The photo shows the Ursa ceiling insulation:

Cost - 425-430 rubles per pack of 10 slabs 1000 cm x 610 cm, 50 mm thick.

Isorok

The company offers high quality mineral wool. This is an economical choice, since the material has an increased level of thermal insulation qualities. However, this material is flammable.

The photo shows Izorok ceiling insulation:

Cost - 638 rubles for a package of 12 slabs 1000 cm long, 500 cm wide and 30 mm thick.

During the cold season, any house loses heat due to leaks at the joints of building structures, cracks in windows and doors, as well as due to thermal radiation from walls, floors and ceilings into the surrounding space. At the same time, ceilings and roofs account for 15 to 45% of all heat losses. Therefore, the ceiling must be insulated, eliminating heat loss due to the release of heated air and due to heat transfer. Most insulation methods do not require expensive equipment or special qualifications of workers. They are quite capable of doing the work of insulating a house with their own hands.

In addition to the most important task - heat preservation - thermal insulation work also solves one more - maintaining optimal humidity. For this, in addition to insulation materials, vapor barrier and waterproofing membranes are used to prevent condensation from accumulating on ceilings and walls. Semi-permeable membrane films allow water vapor to pass through them in one direction and do not allow moisture to pass through in the opposite direction.

General scheme of ceiling and roof insulation

Ceiling and roof insulation schemes

From the point of view of insulation, all roofs are divided into two types:

  • Warm. Under the roofing material there are several layers: vapor barrier, ceiling insulation and waterproofing. They are held in place by battens - spatial structures attached to the rafters. Ceiling attic premises It is insulated exactly according to this scheme.
  • Cold. They have a layer of roofing material and a load-bearing structure and a layer of vapor and waterproofing placed underneath them. Air gap in the attic is an additional barrier to heat loss. The ceiling located under the so-called cold roof must be insulated and waterproofed.

Features of ceiling insulation

The main feature of insulation flat ceiling– the impossibility of arranging condensate drainage, as is done for sloping roofs. Therefore, almost all insulation solutions are aimed at removing water vapor upward, ensuring its unhindered passage through all layers.

Cold overlap

How to properly insulate a ceiling in a cold attic? Air gaps are left above a cold or heat-conducting ceiling (for example, concrete). The first, auxiliary between the vapor barrier film and the insulation, comes into effect when there are large temperature changes and heavy condensation. It must be well ventilated. It is easier to make the main gap between the insulation and the waterproofing layer ventilated - just leave small gap along the perimeter. It is preferable to insulate a cold ceiling both from above and from below. The insulation used for the ceiling located under a cold attic must be moisture resistant.

Warm ceiling

A floor made of materials with low thermal conductivity, such as wood, is called warm. Such floors, which themselves serve as a heat insulator, need only be insulated from above. Even if condensation forms during extreme temperature changes, it will be absorbed into wooden structures without changing their properties, and will subsequently evaporate. As a rule, this process is invisible to the inhabitants.

The vapor barrier is laid on the ceiling without a gap, then the insulation is laid. The air gap between the thermal insulation layer and the hydrobarrier membrane should also be left and will provide the possibility of its ventilation.

Insulation materials

There is no clear answer to the question of which insulation is better. The choice is determined by several factors, such as:

  • thermal insulation properties;
  • ceiling design features;
  • price;
  • qualification and equipment requirements
  • availability of materials.

Materials for insulation are divided into basic and auxiliary. The auxiliary ones include barrier and membrane ones.

Barriers and membranes

Vapor barriers

Vapor barriers are needed to prevent water vapor from passing through them. For their production, polypropylene films with a thickness of over 55 microns are used.

Polyethylene is unsuitable as a vapor barrier - over time, due to temperature fluctuations, it cracks and begins to let vapor through. However, if you solder a layer of polyethylene and a layer of foil, you get a high-quality vapor barrier.

Folgoizols also provide a layer of fibrous nonwoven fabric padding polyester type. This layer collects moisture from the insulation and carries it away through capillaries. If it is present, there is no need to create an additional air gap above the cold ceiling.

Membranes

Multilayer reinforced membrane materials allow vapor to pass in one direction and retain moisture in the opposite direction. The reinforcing mesh layer ensures the strength of the film, does not allow it to sag and guarantees the constancy of the size of the main air gap.


Membranes with a reinforcing layer

Read also - do it yourself.

Membranes for installation under roofing have a metalized outer side. It increases resistance to weather conditions - high humidity, wind loads and temperature changes.

Insulation materials

The better to insulate cold ceiling? Basic thermo insulating materials used for insulating ceilings can be divided into the following categories:

  • Solid. Such materials consist of foamed plastics, are little susceptible to moisture, and are easy to install.
  • Fibrous. Mats or rolls are formed from compressed fibers. Inexpensive, have good thermal insulation. Sensitive to moisture, when wet they lose their thermal insulation properties.
  • Bulk. Traditional bulk materials - expanded clay, etc. The cheapest ones have the weakest thermal insulation. Ecowool stands out separately - an expensive, but extremely effective material.
  • Sprayable. Modern coatings from foamed plastics. They are sprayed locally and do not form joints or seams. The best thermal insulation, very expensive equipment.

How to insulate the ceiling, everyone decides for themselves, based on their needs and capabilities.

Mineral wool


Rolled mineral wool

Most popular type fibrous materials. Produced from several types of raw materials:

  • Basalt wool from volcanic rocks. High strength and density, short stiff fibers. High moisture resistance.
  • Glass wool from recycled glass. Low strength, light and elastic, long elastic fibers.
  • Slag from blast furnace waste. Low thermal insulation properties, low cost. Not applicable for residential buildings.

To insulate with mineral wool, no special equipment is required; the installation process is simple and quite fast. It is produced both in rolls and in slabs with insulation thickness up to 150 mm.

Mineral wool is harmful to health; during installation you must use a respirator, protective gloves and goggles.

Attention! If fibers get on the mucous membranes, respiratory or digestive organs, you should immediately consult a doctor.

After installation during use, mineral wool is completely harmless to those living in the house.

An important feature of mineral wool that must be taken into account when designing and installing is the large number of joints and junctions. They need to be done so that the gap is minimal, the slabs are laid against the guides and opposite each other. Half-centimeter gaps between slabs can reduce the effectiveness of the coating by a third.


Correct and incorrect installation of insulation

The thermal insulating properties of mineral wool are reduced until they are lost when the material gets wet. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure the removal of vapors and condensate.

Monolithic

The most suitable and popular material for thermal insulation of ceilings is polystyrene foam. It is produced in the form of 1200*600mm panels equipped with tongue and groove. This allows you to make high-quality joints during installation. In addition, cracks and gaps are sealed with polyurethane foam. The material is resistant to moisture and temperature fluctuations. Works great when insulating ceilings both outside and inside

Its disadvantage is low fire resistance. When burned, it releases substances harmful to health.


Insulation with polyurethane foam

Polystyrene foam, or polyurethane foam, is significantly cheaper than polystyrene foam, but has low strength and is prone to chipping. Suitable for insulating ceilings from the inside.

Sprayed and bulk materials

Sprayed materials are very effective, have no joints or seams, and almost do not burn. They can be effectively sprayed into hard to reach places and cavities, providing thermal insulation where other materials can only be placed with partial dismantling of building structures.

The main disadvantage is the extremely high cost of the equipment and the highly qualified operator. This hinders the widespread adoption of this promising method.

Ecowool

Very promising as bulk and sprayed insulation for roofs and ceilings. Occupies an intermediate position between sprayed and bulk materials. It is made from recycled paper and has the same thermal conductivity as mineral wool. Fibers with the addition of glue are fed to the surface or into the cavity under slight pressure and harden there. When wet, it partially loses its properties, but after drying they return.

Additives in ecowool make it low flammable, environmentally safe and unattractive to rodents and mold. The material does not cause allergies and does not contribute to the development of cancer.


Methods for laying ecowool

Applying ecowool does not require special qualifications, and installation is a little more complicated than a vacuum cleaner. One of the few drawbacks is the requirement for application temperature: not lower than +23 o C

Expanded clay and foam glass crumbs (foam crumbs)

When filling with expanded clay or foam crumbs, it is necessary to take into account that its thermal insulation properties are low compared to more modern materials. Therefore, a significantly thicker layer will be required.


Expanded clay - traditional bulk insulation

A few advantages of the material are its low cost, moisture resistance and non-flammability.

Expanded clay is used in budget solutions as an outer layer, while internal thermal insulation is performed with mineral wool


Scheme of two-layer insulation with expanded clay and mineral wool

Sawdust and shavings

These materials can be attractive due to their low cost; sawdust and shavings can be obtained completely free of charge at woodworking factories. Wood shavings have a high fire hazard; sawdust burns much worse.

Ceiling insulation

Let's consider the process of insulating the attic ceiling with mineral wool. Technology varies based on specific designs and selected schemes.

Outside

The simplest and quick way thermal insulation – inter-beam. If the ceiling is made of solid boards, the vapor barrier must be placed around the beams or the film folded over them. If the ceiling is made of thin lining or slats, a foil vapor barrier film is attached below the beams, along the ceiling.


Insulation methods wooden ceiling from the attic

A complete insulation scheme requires significantly more labor, materials and time, but it is also much more effective. An over-beam layer is added to the inter-beam layer of rolls or mats double layer slabs The layers must be laid overlapping.

How to insulate a cold ceiling from the inside

When choosing a method of thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside, you need to understand that any of them will reduce the height of the room. Minimal height loss will occur in the case of installing a suspended ceiling or suspended ceiling made of plasterboard. In this case, thermal insulation boards can be placed between the guide metal profiles.


Fastening basalt wool on disc dowels

If suspended ceiling is not planned, then the insulation slabs can be fastened in various ways:

  • Still, make guides from wooden slats or metal profiles.
  • Secure the panels with special disc dowels. For one mat measuring 1200 * 600 mm you need at least 4-5 dowels
  • Glue to the ceiling with mastic.

A reinforced mesh is glued to the lower part of the insulation, and leveling primer and layers of paint are applied to it.

No attic

When insulating buildings without an attic, in addition to solving the problem of heat preservation itself, it is necessary to ensure the removal of excess moisture, both contained in the air in the form of vapor and condensing on cold surfaces.


Scheme for buildings without an attic

A vapor barrier is laid under the light ceiling, and a layer of thermal insulation material is laid on it. It is necessary to provide two ventilated gaps - between thermal insulation and waterproofing and between waterproofing and roofing material. You need to install vents along the ridge or simply lift the ridge cap so that the air can escape freely.

Special cases

Let's look at a few special cases

In an apartment building

Apartments on the top floors apartment buildings known as cold. Especially if the builders performed thermal insulation of the ceiling in violation of the technology. Any DIY work in the attic apartment building illegal, it is better to spend time complaining to the construction or operating organization and forcing them to fulfill their obligations to ensure normal temperatures. But the claim process is not a quick process, and the rooms are already cold today.

However, you can insulate the ceiling quickly and inexpensively from the inside and do it yourself. You will have to “please” your neighbors by drilling numerous holes in the ceiling for dowels, but the result is worth it.


Ceiling insulation in an apartment building

Another drawback will be a reduction in the height of the rooms by 4-5 cm, and around the perimeter of the ceiling - up to 40 cm. But heat is more expensive.

A system of guides made of wooden slats or metal profile 4 cm high. 30 mm thick sheets of foam plastic are laid between them and attached to the ceiling with disc-shaped dowels.

After this, a foil vapor barrier is attached along the lower edges of the guides. Slopes with a radius of 40-40 cm are made along the perimeter, ensuring a smooth connection between the planes of the lines of the false ceiling and walls. At the last stage, sheets of moisture-resistant drywall are attached. Curvilinear slopes are covered with foam chips, starting from the short sides of the room. Ecowool is also suitable for this.

Attic

A residential attic must be insulated. Insulation of a non-residential attic will not hurt either - this will be an additional barrier to the cold on the residential floors. How to reliably insulate the ceiling in a residential attic? The most common scheme is insulation with mineral wool or polyurethane foam slabs laid between the rafters. For vertical walls, you will need to take special cotton wool with a low shrinkage coefficient.


Attic thermal insulation diagram

Particular attention will need to be paid to vapor barrier. In an already built house, the space under the ridge is not always available. In this case, ecowool can help out - it can be blown through temporary technological holes, which are then sealed with polyurethane foam.

Garage and bathhouse

The roof of a garage is often supported by metal I-beams. When installing guides for insulation, drilling holes from bottom to top in a steel beam is inconvenient, so the method shown in the figure is used. Thermal insulation boards are laid in two overlapping layers. Instead of fibrous materials, you can try ecowool. In this case, you can do without foil insulation, and instead lay kraft paper on the false ceiling.


Installation diagrams for bathhouses and garages

Used for baths standard scheme thermal insulation. High humidity the premises require the use of basalt wool - insulating the ceiling of a building with glass wool is not recommended. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of ventilation of the gaps. Ecowool must be moistened with glue. If a bath ceiling is insulated, working from the attic side, they often use bulk materials, such as sawdust and shavings.

Worker skills and tools

Popular insulation methods do not require expensive equipment or high qualifications. For insulation, a home craftsman will only need general construction skills and ordinary tools:

  • hammer
  • screwdriver
  • hacksaw
  • stepladders
  • roulette

When installing the guides, it is best to call an assistant. Help with cutting and laying rolled materials would also be helpful.

Before starting work and purchasing materials, it is necessary to make a sketch drawing. This will help you avoid making mistakes with dimensions and correctly calculate the amount of materials purchased.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and installation floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

Insulating the ceiling is a fairly simple process, but thanks to it you can significantly reduce heat loss through this part of the structure. The advantage of this type of work is that almost all insulation options can be carried out on your own without the use of special equipment. I'll tell you about the right technology each of the options, and you carefully read all the solutions and choose the best one for your home.

Insulation methods

Of all the options that I will talk about, only one cannot be installed efficiently without special equipment; the rest can be done with your own hands without any problems. Different solutions require different costs, this factor also should not be overlooked, because in some cases the costs may be minimal, and in others you will have to shell out a large sum.

An important note: those methods that require large expenses are much more effective than budget methods, this is a well-known truth, and you must remember it.

Basically, all options involve external insulation, that is, work in the attic. This is much more convenient from the point of view of the simplicity of the process, in addition, you can work without littering inside. Of course, in some situations it will be necessary to carry out work from the inside; I will also touch on them in the appropriate sections.

Option No. 1 - polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam

This is a fairly popular solution, foam is cheaper, and extruded options are much stronger. But in the attic there is no strength special significance, so there is no point in spending extra money. Let's figure out what you need for work:

Styrofoam For work, it is best to use sheets with a thickness of 100 mm; the density can be as low as 15 kg per cubic meter. You can lay the material in two layers, then the joints between the sheets should not coincide, the top row is laid offset, this ensures greater reliability.

The quantity is calculated based on the area to be covered, everything is quite simple, remember that one cubic meter is enough for 10 square meters with a layer of 10 cm

Polyurethane foam With its help, all cracks at joints and junctions will be sealed. It is impossible to fit the foam perfectly accurately, so you need to fill all the voids, and polyurethane foam is ideal for these purposes, the ideal option is to buy a professional gun, since with its help it is much more convenient to apply the composition, and this can be done even in narrow crevices, which very important in our case
Vapor barrier membrane or glassine Personally, I think that you can do without these materials, since wood does not need additional insulation. But if you still want to cover the surface, then use membrane options, but under no circumstances use film, as condensation will form under it and rotting processes may begin in the wood. If the attic is residential, then insulation can be laid on top, it is attached directly to the beams

As for technology, do-it-yourself ceiling insulation is done according to the following algorithm:

  • First of all, the surface is cleared of all objects and cleared of debris if any.. The space between the beams must be dry and clean so that nothing interferes with the tightest fit of the heat-insulating material;
  • Next, foam sheets are prepared; if you need to trim them, keep in mind that the width of the element should be 10 mm greater than the distance between the frame, this will ensure a tight arrangement of the material in the structure. For this work, I advise you to purchase a special hacksaw; with its help you will quickly and efficiently cut the material;

  • If you lay a vapor barrier, do it with overlaps on vertical surfaces. The easiest way to fix the material is with a construction stapler; this is the fastest way to carry out the work;
  • The sheets are placed as tightly as possible into the frame, try to measure accurately required sizes and cut them straight. If insulation is carried out in two layers, then the top one is placed offset by half a sheet relative to the bottom one, this eliminates through gaps through which heat will be lost. Remember that the material is fragile and will break under great force;

  • After laying the material, the stage of sealing all cracks and joints begins; the work is simple: with the help of polyurethane foam, all visible voids are filled. After the composition has dried, the excess can be cut off if it protrudes beyond the surface and creates interference.

Further work depends on how the attic will be used; you can lay a floor on it, or you can leave it as is - the material does not need additional protection and will perform its functions perfectly.

In this section you need to figure out how to insulate the ceiling on a balcony with your own hands, here the work is done exclusively from the inside, and for it it is best to use extruded polystyrene foam due to its strength and durability.

The loggia is insulated as follows:

  • The surface is cleaned of contaminants; if there are irregularities on it, they should be eliminated;
  • Then the extruded material is taken, if necessary cut to the size of the ceiling and secured to it with dowels for thermal insulation. To do this in concrete slab holes are drilled using a hammer drill, after which fasteners are inserted and the elements are securely fixed to the surface;

  • Then all the cracks and joints are sealed with polyurethane foam, the excess of which is cut off after hardening;
  • Further work depends on the finishing method; if you plaster the surface, then a reinforcing mesh is attached to it and a special adhesive composition. If you nail the lining or other finishing material, that is, it makes sense to fix penofol on the outside - this is a thin insulation with a reflective layer that allows you to save more more heat on your balcony.

Insulation of the ceiling on the balcony can also be done using polystyrene foam; in this case, I recommend using the option with a density of 25 kg per cubic meter, it is much stronger and harder.

Option No. 2 - granulated polystyrene

For some reason, ceiling insulation is very rarely done using this option, but I really like it due to the simplicity and quality of the material, the granules do not burn, which ensures proper fire safety, and the ease of use is absolutely excellent, judge for yourself:

  • First of all, you need to prepare the surface - due to the small size of the insulation, it is important to seal all the cracks so that granules do not penetrate into them. The rough filing should be quite dense, so it must be done carefully;
  • Next, the surface is covered with either a vapor barrier membrane or glassine (paper impregnated with bitumen), these materials perform two functions at once: they protect the structure from moisture and prevent the insulation from waking up. Fastening is done using a stapler; the insulating material must extend onto vertical surfaces by at least 10 centimeters;
  • The insulation work is very simple: you pour granulated polystyrene onto the surface and distribute it in an even layer, no need to compact it. The recommended layer is 15-20 cm, do not worry about the load on the structure, the material is very light;
  • Lastly, you need to cover the surface with a vapor-permeable membrane or any material that allows air to pass through, this is necessary so that the polystyrene does not swell, because it is very light and even a slight breeze can blow the granules apart.

I would like to note that the price cubic meter granulated polystyrene is about 5,500 rubles, if the layer is 20 cm, then this is enough for 5 square meters of area.

Option No. 3 - penoizol

This is a new generation material, which is a composition that is applied in liquid form and, after hardening, forms a monolithic structure with good thermal insulation properties without cracks or voids. The advantage of this solution is its effectiveness and service life of about 30 years, the disadvantage is that its application requires special equipment and cannot be done without the involvement of specialists.

As for how to implement this option, everything is simple due to the fact that the work will be carried out mainly by external specialists. You are required to prepare the surface:

  • Clear the space of dust and debris; it is important to remove all objects that will interfere with work and free all surfaces that will be insulated;
  • After this you need to put vapor barrier membrane, it will protect the tree from moisture released when applying penoizol and create a barrier that will release evaporation outside, but prevent moisture from getting inside;
  • Then the specialists get to work. They apply the material in the required layer over the entire area, the work happens quite quickly, and within a few hours the process will be completely completed. It will take some time for the surface to dry, after which the material will acquire all its properties.

There is no need to put any insulating materials on top of the material, which is also important; if in some places the material has risen above the required level, you can cut it off with a regular construction knife.

Let's look at the cost, a cubic meter of penoizol will cost you an average of 1500-1800 rubles, this is a fairly reasonable price, considering that you will have a minimum of worries, and you will get an excellent result.

Option No. 4 – mineral wool

I will not be mistaken if I say that this is the most popular material for thermal insulation of ceiling structures. Ceiling insulation is carried out in the following sequence:

  • As in all other options, the work begins with cleaning the surface and freeing the attic from unnecessary objects that interfere with the work;
  • Then you need to lay a vapor-permeable waterproofing material, the choice of options is very large, you need to purchase the product famous manufacturer with a good reputation among buyers and specialists. The waterproofing is attached using a stapler; for reliability, overlaps of 10-15 cm are made; they can be further strengthened by gluing them with ordinary tape;

  • Then mineral wool is laid in the space between the beams; both roll and slab versions can be used. In the first case, the material is cut into pieces of the required width and placed tightly on the surface; in the second, the elements are placed on the surface as tightly as possible; it is important to eliminate gaps in the places where the materials join and abut;

  • The advantage of rigid slabs is that they do not require a continuous sheathing; the main thing is to waterproof the surface, after which the elements can be laid. The minimum thickness of the material is 100 mm, but in areas with severe winters the layer can be much larger.

Remember that when working with mineral wool, you must use protective equipment - gloves and a respirator. In the future, the material will not pose a danger, but when laying and cutting it, small particles may enter the air, which can irritate the mucous membranes, and the skin of the hands will itch.

This material is ideal for insulating an attic from the inside with your own hands; in this case, the work is carried out in the following sequence:

  • First of all, the surface is covered windproof membrane, which will also protect against moisture from the outside and ensure the evaporation of excess moisture from the inside. The fastening is standard - using a stapler, all joints must be reliable, it is better to additionally glue them with a special tape;
  • Next, the space between the rafters is filled with mineral wool, the layer should be as large as possible, the optimal option is 20 cm. It is important to lay the material as densely as possible, so the width of the elements should be 3-4 cm greater than the distance between the frame;

  • To keep the sheets in place, they need to be secured., there are two main ways. The first involves stuffing slats on top of the thermal insulation layer, and the second involves using twine, which is stretched on the surface and holds the mineral wool, an example is shown in the photo below.

  • A vapor barrier material is attached on top of the insulation, after which it is possible to carry out exterior finishing, it can be anything: from lining to drywall or plywood.

Option No. 5 – sawdust

If you don’t know how to insulate a ceiling in a dacha on a budget and with high quality, then this section will tell you one of the simplest and most effective solutions. To complete the work you will need the following materials:

  • Dry sawdust, the material can be purchased at the nearest sawmill for pennies;
  • Lime, it is added to protect sawdust from mold and pests, it must be added in a ratio of 1:10. Finely ground fluffed lime is used;
  • To strengthen the composition, I advise adding cement, one part of it should be per 10 parts of sawdust;
  • Copper sulfate - added as an additional antiseptic, you need 2-3 spoons of it per bucket of water.

The workflow looks like this:

  • In a container of suitable size, mix 10 parts of sawdust, 1 part of lime and 1 part of cement; it is important to achieve uniformity of the composition;
  • Next, water is added to the resulting mass, in which 3 tablespoons are diluted copper sulfate for 10 liters. It must be added carefully, the mass should be moist, but not soggy and wet;

  • The surface of the ceiling is covered with a layer of glassine, it is laid with an overlap on vertical surfaces, make a margin of 10-15 cm at the joints. This material serves as a waterproofing agent and does not allow moisture to penetrate the wood. It needs to be secured around the perimeter either with small slats or with a construction stapler, the second option is much simpler and faster
  • Insulation of the ceiling occurs by uniformly distributing the finished mass over the surface; its layer should be 10 cm or more. There is no need to compact the sawdust, just lay it out on a plane and carefully level it;

  • It takes about two weeks for the composition to dry; during this period it is advisable to ensure good ventilation of the attic space. It is not recommended to walk on the material in the future, so if the attic will be used for some purpose, then the insulation should be covered with a flooring made of boards or.

Option No. 6 – clay

More precisely, it will not be exactly clay, but a mixture of clay and sawdust; such a mass has good thermal insulation properties and is completely environmentally friendly, which is also an important advantage these days. What you need for work:

  • Clay, which you can dig up yourself at the nearest mining site;
  • Sawdust, it is important to find a dry option without traces of mold;
  • Cement - a tenth of it is needed to the volume of the solution to increase its strength later.

The insulation mass is prepared as follows:

  • Several buckets of clay are poured into a concrete mixer, after which water is added, the amount should be such that after mixing a liquid mass is obtained. To make the process faster, clay should be added in the form of small pieces;
  • Next, sawdust is added until the mass becomes relatively dense; the moisture content of the composition should be low so that when laying it, water does not flow onto the structure; this is very important. At the end of mixing, cement is added, which also dries the mass and, after it hardens, gives additional strength;

Instead of sawdust, you can use straw, then you will get adobe, the thermal insulation properties of which have been well known to people for many centuries. In this case, water is added to the clay until a wet mass is obtained, after which wet straw is added, mixing is done with hands or even feet if the volumes are large.

  • The surface between the beams must be covered with a waterproofing, vapor-permeable material; this is necessary so that moisture from the mass does not penetrate into the material and cause mold to form in it;
  • The composition is laid out on the surface in a layer of approximately 10 cm, the surface is leveled manually or using a level lath. You can also use a rule; with its help, the work will go much faster, and the result will be much better;

  • After laying, the mixture will dry for about a month; during this period, it is necessary to ensure high-quality attic ventilation. If small cracks appear on the surface during the drying process, they can be carefully rubbed out.

Option No. 7 – expanded clay

This lightweight fireproof material has good thermal insulation properties and is lightweight, which is important when insulating ceiling structures. I would like to immediately note that for effective thermal insulation the layer of material should be about 20 cm, take this into account and use it when building beams of the appropriate height.

Ceiling insulation with expanded clay is carried out using a fairly simple technology:

  • The surface is cleared of all excess, after which a vapor-permeable membrane is laid on it. The easiest way is to lay the material completely so that it covers both the surface and the beams; it is fastened with a stapler; it is fast, convenient and very reliable;
  • Expanded clay is poured over the entire area and evenly distributed over the surface; the process is very simple and takes little time. The main thing is that someone brings the bags, and someone scatters them and levels them out.

A cubic meter of expanded clay costs about one and a half thousand rubles, this is for your information so that you can calculate the approximate costs when using this option.

Option No. 8 – ecowool

This is a relatively new insulation, which consists of cellulose with the addition of antiseptics and fire retardants, this ensures the safety of the material and its non-flammability. The capillary structure allows moisture to evaporate from the surface, and the presence of special additives prevents the formation of mold, so when asked what is the best way to insulate the ceiling, many experts answer that optimal solution today is ecowool.

But I want to immediately warn you against independent work– the composition must be applied by specialists using special equipment; a manually poured mass retains heat much worse, such savings will cost more for you.

Let's figure out how to properly insulate a ceiling with this material; the instructions for carrying out the work are very simple:

  • The material does not require any special preparation, since cellulose interacts well with wood. You need to clean the surface of debris and unnecessary objects. There should be nothing in the attic, since during operation particles fly in all directions and land on all objects around;
  • Ceiling insulation can be done in two ways - dry and wet. In the first case, the composition is applied dry under pressure to the surface, work continues until a layer of the required thickness is formed on the surface. The second option involves supplying a wet mass, which after drying reliably adheres to the surface; its main advantages are strong attachment to the surface and high sound insulation characteristics;

Of course, there are other technologies that can be used to insulate the ceiling; I have touched only on those that are most common today and have proven themselves well among developers. From this list you can choose the best option for any structure, carefully weigh all the criteria to find the optimal solution.

Conclusion

Insulating the ceiling is a responsible process, because up to 25% of the heat from the house can be lost through this part of the structure. It is important to carry out the work efficiently and thoroughly, and the video in this article will help you deal with some important nuances better. If you do not understand certain points or you want to get Additional information, then write in the comments under the review.