How to build a fireplace with your own hands. How to make a brick fireplace with your own hands

A well-laid corner brick fireplace will be a wonderful addition to almost any interior. In this case, the unit will fully cope with the solution of space heating problems. Fireplace masonry can be handled on our own. Read the following recommendations and get started.

To place a corner fireplace, you can choose a place near outside walls and near its interior. The most important thing is to determine the optimal procedure for installing a smoke exhaust pipe in accordance with current standards and regulations.

If corner fireplace will be placed near the inner wall, above which there is a certain difference roofing structure, this point must be taken into account - the chimney flue pipe must be installed above the ridge of the main roof.

During prolonged use of the fireplace for heating, the smoke exhaust pipe, and in parallel with it the rear wall of the structure, will noticeably warm up. In view of this, owners of buildings with wooden walls need to pay special attention to solving fire protection issues.

To install a private fireplace yourself, you must first of all establish its optimal dimensions for the specific heated room. The following guide will discuss the procedure for constructing a heating unit for a small room with an area of ​​about 15-20 m2. If necessary, change the size of the unit in accordance with the characteristics of your specific situation.

After reading the proposed manual, you will master the basic principles of laying corner fireplaces and in the future you will be able to build a similar structure without outside help.

Optimal fireplace sizes

When determining the optimal dimensions of the structure, it is necessary to take into account the area, as well as the volume of the room, which will subsequently be heated by the unit being built. Specifically, in this example, a fireplace is being built with a combustion chamber opening having an area of ​​about 0.3 m2. You can change the suggested sizes in accordance with the conditions of your situation.

Determine the optimal dimensions of the firebox portal. In the case of the design under consideration, the portal is called the combustion hole. Its main parameters are width and height.

Adhere to the standard ratio, according to which the width should be in relation to the height as 3:2. In this example, the width of the portal will be 560 mm, and the height will be 400 mm.

Maintain the height of the fireplace portal and the depth of the fuel compartment as 2:1; a ratio of 3:2 is also acceptable.

These sizes are the most optimal. If the firebox has a greater depth, the heat transfer of the unit will decrease significantly. If the dimensions of the firebox are reduced, smoke will appear.

In the situation under consideration, the firebox should have a depth of 240-300 mm.

After determining the optimal dimensions of the combustion chamber of a corner fireplace, proceed to calculating the appropriate dimensions of the hole for the smoke exhaust pipe. Select the dimensions of this hole taking into account the dimensions of the combustion chamber hole. The size of the chimney opening should be approximately 10-15 times smaller than the area of ​​the combustion chamber opening.

Optimal rectangular size chimney is an indicator of 140x140 mm. If the cross-section of the chimney is round, make a hole with a diameter of 100-120 mm. Optimal height chimney - 350-400 cm. This figure may increase depending on the height of the roof ridge.

In order to improve the heat transfer characteristics of the unit, the rear wall of its firebox is laid out with a forward slope. This slope should begin to be created from about a third of the height of the firebox.

The design includes a smoke collector. It is installed above the combustion chamber. Between the mentioned elements, the so-called. cornice, also known as a pass. This element will prevent the emission of soot, sparks, etc.

If your fireplace is made of carved brick, make sure that all its dimensions exactly correspond to the standard masonry module. The typical dimensions of the building material in question are 25x12x6.5 cm. Masonry seam maintain at a level of about 5 mm.

In accordance with the cross-section of the structure at the level of the combustion chamber, other dimensions of the structure being erected will be determined. Calculate them and draw up an order drawing according to which the brickwork will be made.

Also, creating the order and performing the necessary calculations can be entrusted to a professional. Everything you need if you want project documentation easily found in open sources. Do what is most convenient for you.

What should the fireplace be made of?

After creating the order, calculate the required amount of building materials and purchase them in a specialized store. Material should be counted individually. And even incomplete products must be included in the calculation as whole elements. Additionally add about 10% reserve.

It is important that the brick is solid and properly fired. You can also use used bricks from a disassembled stove, if they are in good condition. It is enough just to clean the material from the remnants of the previous solution.

Lay out the firebox of the corner fireplace from fireclay bricks.

To prepare the solution you will need a number of materials. So, the sand for the solution should be quite coarse-grained (grains up to 1.5 mm). The sand must first be sifted and cleaned. various kinds third-party inclusions.

Laying a fireplace will require the use of clay. The best option– Cambrian, also known as blue clay. But if you are confident in the quality of local clay, you can prepare a solution using it.

You also need to buy materials for arranging the foundation. This is ordinary Portland cement M400 and crushed stone with a diameter ranging from 20-60 mm.

Additionally, purchase a smoke damper and steel reinforcing bars. Rods with a length of 70 cm and a diameter of 10 mm or so are optimal. In the example under consideration, about 12 reinforcing rods are used. Depending on the dimensions of your fireplace, their number may vary.

Preparatory work

Work on arranging a corner fireplace begins with the construction of the base. It is strictly forbidden to connect the foundation of the structure under construction with the base of the main building - this will lead to very unfavorable consequences.

To determine the optimal width of the foundation, add about 50 mm to the width of the front plinth row. Determine the length in accordance with the dimensions of the side row of the plinth. In general, the dimensions of the base should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the future fireplace.

When choosing a place for arranging the foundation and the fireplace itself, make sure that in the future the smoke exhaust pipe does not pass through the elements of the roof rafter system and beams.

The foundation is made extremely simply - a pit of the required size is dug, the bottom of the pit is covered with waterproofing, a layer of a mixture of sand and crushed stone is poured on top, reinforcement is laid and mortar is poured.

Let the foundation gain strength and cover it double layer roofing felt

While the foundation hardens, begin preparing building materials for upcoming use. So, the clay must first be soaked in water for a couple of days. Soak the bricks for the same amount of time.

Pre-calibrate the bricks you have. Elements with significant deviations from the previously mentioned size cannot be used for masonry.

To prepare the solution, use a standard and proven recipe. Pour the dry sifted sand into the clay pulp, and then mix the resulting mixture thoroughly. Determine the required amount of water individually. Ready mix should have the consistency of jelly.

Check the finished solution. To do this, roll a sample out of it into a “sausage” about 1.5 cm in diameter. If the sample does not stick to your hands, holds its given shape normally and does not fall apart, everything is fine.

Also check how the solution you prepared behaves directly on the brick. To do this, place the mixture on the building element. It is necessary that the solution does not stick to the trowel, does not fall apart and does not spread over the brick under its weight.

Fireplace masonry

Prepare the required drawings in advance. The list of drawings must include the order, section, and façade of the fireplace.

During the construction process, you will use not only whole elements, but also halves of bricks and even three-fours. Reflect this point in the drawings using special symbols.

When laying out the basement row, it is better to place the bricks on edge - this way the structure will look more interesting, but this requirement is optional.

Starting from the 2nd row, lay the bricks flat. The bottom of the combustion chamber is usually located at a height of about 250-300 mm above the floor surface, which is a fairly comfortable indicator.

Start laying. We bring to your attention information about the laying order. To make it clearer, at each stage refer to the drawings you have.

First step

Lay out 1-3 rows of bricks. The rows are solid, no special recommendations. The main thing is that the masonry is as even as possible. It is more convenient to start with laying the corner elements.

Second step

Lay out the fourth row. It will represent the hearth of the corner fireplace.

Third step

Lay out the fifth row. At this stage, you need to arrange an ash pit-ash pit. Make a support for the grate from three strips of steel. The stripes will be fixed in the sixth row brickwork.

Place the soaked refractory brick on the clay mixture

Fourth step

Lay out the 6th row. At this stage of the masonry, lay the grate.

Fifth step

In the 7th row, lay out the lower frame of the fireplace portal.

Sixth step

Lay out the walls of the fireplace portal in 8-13 rows. Lay the bricks with bandaging masonry seams.

In parallel with this, in the 11th row, begin, and in subsequent rows, continue the construction of an inclined mirror near the rear fireplace wall.

Seventh step

In rows 14-15, close the fireplace portal. Continue laying out the mirror.

Eighth step

Finish arranging the mirror in the 16th row. At the same stage, build the top of the tooth. Be sure to coat the tooth with the clay solution on the side of the smoke exhaust element. This treatment will protect the material from burning under the influence of high temperatures.

Ninth step

Lay out 17-19 rows of brickwork. At this stage you need to lay out the front of the fireplace. The bricks must be cut in the direction of the hill.

Tenth step

Form a chimney in 20-22 rows. In the 22nd row, install a smoke valve.

Eleventh step

From the 23rd row to the end (in order), lay out the chimney.

Finally, the fireplace should be allowed to dry and then done finishing and additional decoration at your discretion.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself fireplace laying

Modern Vacation home with a spacious living room it’s hard to imagine without a massive brick fireplace. It gives the room a cozy and beautiful look, and also makes it possible to have a pleasant time at friendly gatherings or a romantic date. An open fire creates an incredible atmosphere of warmth and comfort in which you can relax after a hard day and take a break from problems. Using more detailed drawings and calculations, you can build a fireplace with your own hands from brick.

However, such construction is quite complex and responsible, so it is necessary to take into account the rules of stove masonry, prepare the necessary materials and tools, and also find the optimal drawing or create it yourself.

DIY brick fireplace

When building a brick fireplace, it is extremely important to pay special attention to calculating its parameters. This is due to the fact that it not only performs a decorative function, but is also used to heat the room. First of all, it is necessary to accurately determine required dimensions combustion hole. In this case, the following is taken into account:

1. The ratio between the rough portal and the size of the room should be approximately 1 to 50. Therefore, if you need to heat a room with an area of ​​20 square meters. m., then the size of the firebox should be approximately 0.4 sq. m.
2. The ratio of the height and width of the firebox should be 2:3. In this case, for a room of 20 square meters. m. optimal size The sides will be 51 by 77 cm.
3. The depth of the firebox is also an important indicator. The traction force will depend on it. The depth of the firebox should be in a ratio of 7:10 to the height. Therefore, for such a fireplace this indicator should be about 34 cm. If the indicator is higher, heat loss will increase, and if lower, smoke may penetrate into the room.
4. The chimney area should be approximately 10 times smaller than the portal area.
5. A podium should be placed in front of the firebox opening, the width of which should be about 50 cm. The side podiums should have a width of no more than 30 cm.
6. The transfer sheet must extend beyond the combustion area by a distance of up to 30 cm.

You can learn more about building a mini-brick fireplace with your own hands from the video

Types of brick fireplaces

Exist different kinds fireplaces that can be installed in a country house or on small dacha. First of all, brick fireplaces are divided into wall-mounted and built-in.

Photo of a corner fireplace

Built-in

A special feature of this design is that the fireplace is installed inside load-bearing wall. A chimney is pre-installed inside this wall. This option is quite complex, so it is rarely chosen for self-construction. In addition, the creation of such a fireplace is possible only at the stage of designing a house.

Wall mounted

Most good option for self-production. It can be easily done both in a country house and in a small country house, without having experience in constructing such structures. Create wall fireplace This is possible both at the design stage and at any time after the construction of the house. However, if construction of a fireplace is required in an already finished house, you must first create a separate foundation.

Photo of a direct fireplace

Wall-mounted fireplaces can be either straight or corner. The last option is the most compact, so it’s perfect for indoor spaces. big size. In addition, its construction is much simpler than direct construction, and significantly less material is required.

Preparation for construction

The beginning of any construction is the preparation of a sketch and carrying out calculation work. First, you should draw the future fireplace by hand in relation to the room. You should also carefully draw the location of the firebox, the shape of the portal, chimney and other elements. The dimensions should first be indicated in advance, and then calculations should be made using formulas.

Based on the approximate drawing, you should make detailed drawing. It must indicate the dimensions of all parts, the side section of the building and other elements. Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the ordering scheme according to which the construction will be carried out. There are many such schemes. You can choose the best option or come up with your own. You can also use one of the ready-made fireplace drawings, having previously adjusted it taking into account the size and features of the room.

Materials and tools

To build a brick fireplace, you can use solid brick, but interior finishing must be done only with special refractory bricks. This material is characterized by a high level of resistance to prolonged exposure to high temperatures and temperature changes, as well as the effects of chemical components that arise as a result of combustion. In addition, refractory brick heats up slowly and retains heat for a long time.

To prepare the solution, it is recommended to use a special fire-resistant mixture, which you can buy at a hardware store or prepare yourself. The simplest version of the mixture consists of clay and sand. The ratio between the components is calculated empirically. The finished mixture should have the consistency of thick sour cream. It is not recommended to use cement for laying a fireplace. It can be added in small proportions to a mixture of clay and sand only during the construction of the base.

To prepare a solution for the base or side walls of the fireplace, you can use any type of sand. For areas that will be constantly exposed to high temperatures, a gully or quarry sand. River or sea sand is too smooth and will have insufficient adhesion to the clay. Before preparing the solution, the sand must be sifted and washed.

The clay for the solution should be pre-soaked for a week, stirring daily and adding water if necessary. If you don’t have time to prepare the solution for a long time according to all the rules, it is better to purchase ready-made fireproof mixtures.

To build a fireplace with a closed firebox, you will additionally need metal doors. To ensure that the fire can be seen through them, it is better to choose doors with fire-resistant glass. For a fireplace with an open firebox, doors are not required. You will need a venting and cleaning door, as well as a damper to adjust the draft. It is best to use a round pipe to install a chimney. You can choose almost any metal, but the optimal solution is stainless steel.

For exterior decoration you can use decorative plaster, fire-resistant ceramic tiles, decorative rock. In some cases, you can leave the brick without decorative finishing, if the fireplace fits into the decor of the room. For example, for a loft-style interior.

The construction of a brick fireplace is carried out using the following tools:

• Master OK;
• building level;
• shovel;
• roulette;
• container for mixing the solution;
• Sander;
• plumb line

After preparing the necessary tools and materials, as well as the necessary plans and drawings, you can proceed to the actual construction of the fireplace.

Construction of the foundation

Before building any type of fireplace, it is necessary to build a foundation underneath it. The size of the foundation should exceed the dimensions of the fireplace by approximately 25 cm on each side. The depth of the base depends on the weight of the fireplace and its size. For a medium-sized product, a base depth of 50-60 cm is sufficient.

The first step in building a foundation is digging a hole. After that, the bottom needs to be compacted, and then covered with a mixture of gravel and sand. Next stage consists of installing formwork. For additional strengthening, a metal grid should be installed inside the formwork. The foundation is filled with a solution made from sand, cement and gravel. The optimal solution The proportion of components is 3:1:4.

The foundation completely hardens within a month. After which it can be covered with a cement-sand mixture, and also a layer of waterproofing can be applied. Construction of the fireplace can begin only after the base has completely hardened.

Fireplace masonry

Particular attention should be paid to laying the first row. According to the rule, it is laid without mortar. The brick must be soaked in water immediately before laying so that it does not absorb moisture from the mortar.

Brick laying scheme

The first row of bricks should be brought to the floor level. The part of the fireplace above the floor must be at least 30 cm before the firebox. After which the ash pan and ash door are installed. The ash pan can be made in the form of a door or a drawer.

After which the fireplace is laid according to a pre-selected pattern. It is best to make flow doors from metal with fire-resistant glass.

Basic principles of fireplace construction

For fireplace masonry, you can use different orders, but any option has general principles:

Corner fireplace

• the first row of bricks should be installed on edge, and the next rows should be installed flat;
• the first two rows are the base;
• bricks should be used without breaks, cracks, chips or other damage;
• if red brick is used for construction, it must first be soaked in water so that it does not absorb moisture from the solution;
• There is no need to soak refractory bricks before construction, just clean them from dirt and wipe them with a damp cloth;
• the thickness of the seam during construction should not be higher than 5 mm;
• if excess mixture appears between the seams, it must be removed before it hardens;
• it is necessary to apply a moderate amount of the mixture so that it guarantees reliable adhesion and does not go beyond the boundaries of the brick;
• during construction, a homogeneous solution without lumps should be used;
• the solution cannot be used to coat the inside of the fireplace;
• the optimal time for construction is summer or another warm period;
• The laying should begin from the corners so that it turns out smooth and neat;
• the bottom of the firebox should be at least three bricks from the floor.

For construction you need to choose optimal scheme, purchase quality materials and prepare a fireproof solution. It is worth paying attention to the external finishing of the product. After all, the fireplace will become a place around which all family members will gather.

Fireplaces simultaneously heat and decorate the surrounding space. You can handle laying a brick fireplace on your own. You just need to read the manual and do everything in accordance with the instructions.

Remember to have an efficient and reliable chimney. Standard length smoke exhaust structure is 4-5 m. In some situations this figure increases to 700 cm.

In a room with a fireplace, high-quality ventilation must be organized.

The actual construction of the fireplace is carried out on a solid platform that can support the weight of the finished structure.

Determination of basic dimensions

Perform the necessary preliminary calculations. Determine the volume of the room allocated for the construction of the fireplace. The firebox opening should be 1/50 of the room volume you calculated.

The height of the portal should be 2 times the depth of the firebox.

The dimensions and ratios given are very important. If the firebox depth is greater permissible value, the fireplace will significantly lose heat output. With a smaller firebox size, smoke will occur.

Select the dimensions of the smoke openings taking into account the dimensions of the combustion area. The cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney should be 10-15 times smaller than the area of ​​the firebox.

The optimal diameter of round chimneys is 100-150 mm. The length of the smoke exhaust pipe can reach 500 cm or more.

Preparation of materials

Prepare required amount(determine in accordance with the planned dimensions and design of the fireplace). Also prepare fireclay bricks for arranging the firebox.

Additionally, prepare the following:

• mixture for bricklaying;
• 12mm glass-magnesium sheet;
• chimney;
• oven tape for mounting accessories;
• metal corners;
• chimney view.

Before starting work, cover everything that needs to be protected from contamination with polyethylene.

Prices for fireproof mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Fireproof mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Fireplace base

The foundation design will include metal corners. They will additionally increase the strength of the site and protect it from destruction during seasonal changes soil.

Dig a hole for arranging the foundation in accordance with the design dimensions.

Fill the bottom of the hole with a sand and gravel mixture. Seal the pillow and place metal corners on it. Double the corner so that during the laying process the most reliable and solid foundation. It is recommended to weld the corners so that they do not move in the future.

In this case, the corners must be mounted in such a way that the masonry elements installed later are located parallel to the interior partition connected to the fireplace (if this design option is chosen).

Place bricks in the corners, fill the entire structure with cement mortar and carefully level it using a plaster trowel.

The thickness of the solution should approximately correspond to the thickness of sour cream. With this consistency, the solution will be able to penetrate into all the cracks of the masonry without leaving the seams.

Ensure the base is horizontal. To eliminate surface unevenness, use the same cement mortar. Leave the structure to dry for a couple of days.

Masonry

Cover the dried foundation with a double layer of roofing felt. This will ensure necessary protection grounds.

Prepare mortar for brickwork. Traditionally, fireplaces are laid using a solution based on pre-soaked

Laying the first row is best done using mortar with a small addition of cement (approximately 10-20% of the total mass of the mixture).

Calibrate the bricks in advance, selecting the most suitable sized products for laying each row.

Before starting laying, immerse the bricks in water for a while. This will allow the products to become saturated with moisture. Otherwise, the bricks will take water from the clay mortar, which will lead to a significant deterioration in the quality of the masonry.

Lay out the first row of bricks edgewise. Check that the row is laid out correctly with a square and level. Make sure the opposite sides and diagonals of the base are the same length.

The masonry is carried out in accordance with the order. The following will be a procedure that is relevant for most existing types of fireplaces. For the rest, rely on the drawings you have.

First step

Lay out three continuous rows of the base.

Second step

Lay out 4-5 rows with an ash pan.

Third step

Lay out 6-7 rows with arranging the bottom and brick frame.

Fourth step

Continue laying. Up to the 13th row inclusive, form the walls of the firebox of the heating unit.

Fifth step

Lay out rows 14-19 with a smoke collector.

Sixth step

Lay out 20-25 rows of the fireplace with a chimney arrangement.

Arrange the base and continuous rows of masonry using a trowel or trowel. and the fuel chamber are laid out manually, because At these stages it is very important to control the quality of the solution used.

Apply fireplace mortar to the middle of the bricks. The edges of the elements must remain free.

When laying out each row, adhere to the chosen order. For greater convenience, you can number the products.

Pay special attention to the quality of the masonry of the fuel compartment and smoke exhaust ducts - these elements must be laid out as evenly as possible and as airtight as possible.

Remove excess masonry mortar immediately.

Find out how to do it with step-by-step instructions from our new article.

To form a beautiful curved fireplace arch, perform a gradual overlap of masonry elements. It is important that the overlap size does not exceed 50-60 mm in each row.

The construction of curved lintels is carried out using temporary formwork - circles. To fix such formwork, use supports under the fireplace vault being installed.

Start laying from the brick installed in the center, and then carry out symmetrical laying in both directions.

Periodically check the verticality of the smoke exhaust pipe. Even the slightest deviations from the vertical can lead to smoke in the room.

To lay the chimney, use a mortar with added cement, similar to the mixture used when laying out the fireplace base.

The smoke exhaust pipe must be covered with a layer of fireproof insulation to increase fire safety. Insulation is installed where pipes pass through the structure of the house (floors, roofing, etc.). Most often used insulating materials asbestos based.

Prices for refractory bricks

Fire brick

To give the fireplace a more attractive appearance, finish it. The most commonly used finishing methods are:

Choose a specific finishing option at your discretion. If you like the fireplace without finishing cladding, unstitch the masonry seams using a special tool and thoroughly clean the surface of the structure from excess mortar.

Important: only fire-resistant paints and varnishes can be used to paint the fireplace.

Otherwise, the external one depends solely on your imagination and personal preferences.

Good luck!

Video - How to build a fireplace with your own hands

In order for the fire in a simple heating device to be at the desired height, 4 rows must be laid out from the floor to the hearth. The three lower levels are filled with crushed stone with sand or pebbles. On the fourth, L-shaped pins for the fireplace grate are laid.

For good draft and, accordingly, heating of the room, it is necessary to install a damper. When lighting a fire, it must be opened completely. When the wood is ignited, this device closes so that gas formation is at an optimal level. If you add middle rows, the fireplace will be taller. This type of device has a simple gas assembly overlap with direct gas outlet. It is not necessary to make shelves on the sides.

If necessary, the upper part of the fireplace, starting from row 30, can be completed differently by making a horizontal flue that will serve as a spark arrestor.

Necessary materials

To work you will need the following elements:

• red brick – 370 pieces (the exact quantity depends on the area of ​​the room);
• valve size 24x13 cm;
• reinforced concrete tiles for shelves and portals; this material can be replaced with a product made of marble or natural stone.

Download the order and drawing

You can download the arrangement of a simple fireplace in PDF format from.

Option 2

There is another scheme for constructing an open hearth - with a heater, which increases the efficiency of the heating device.

This simple fireplace can heat a 28 m² room. IN winter time year, the unit retains heat for 8-10 hours at street temperatures down to -12 °C. Heat transfer can be increased by making the masonry higher. If the height is reduced too much, this may lead to improper operation of the heating device and smoke entering the room.

Download the project. 3D order

Questions and answers

Question: Will the unit function properly if a door is added to it? Or will it change the cravings a lot?
Answer: Everything needs to be tried. It is impossible to answer definitively.

IN: I wanted to build a fireplace according to the project. I invited several stove makers, who unanimously said that it would not work. Experts say that there is no slope in the back wall of the firebox, and therefore it will smoke. Since the device for burning fuel is not made of wood, the fireplace may crack. What should I do?
ABOUT: This heating device is based on the design of A.I. Ryazankin, a stove maker with almost 40 years of experience. I think his work can be trusted. The fireplace will smoke if the height of the fuel chamber is reduced, but the height of the structure itself can be increased if necessary.
Here we are talking about the absence of a fireplace tooth. Make a horizontal channel to the left 3 levels high above row 27, place a door for cleaning it on the left side. Close the unit with three more levels, and move the valve to 32. This structure will act as a fireplace tooth with a pipe located on the left. If the channel needs to be placed on the right, make mirror laying from the 24th row and above.
From levels 2 to 11, make the inside of the furnace from fireclay bricks. This will improve the reliability of the design.

IN: Tell me, is it possible to add an oven?
ABOUT: Probably yes, but we haven't tried.

IN: Will it be possible to integrate a water heating box (heat exchanger) into this fireplace, but in such a way that this device is heated by flue gases? Is it possible in principle to do something like this?

ABOUT: In practice, such devices have never been found in fireplaces. There is a possibility that you may lose your cravings. We recommend purchasing a heating device with a water circuit or ordering a device for an individual project. If you are new to furnace business, we do not recommend taking on this work yourself.

IN: Is it possible to connect an additional back wall to the fireplace, which will pass through the aerated concrete structure into the corridor, and make another channel in it to remove smoke for the firebox in the winter?
ABOUT: The main heating of the room occurs due to the firebox. There are serious doubts that using the back wall will help warm up the adjacent room.

If a country house is under construction or has already been built, then you can always find a place for a fireplace in it, especially since many people dream about it. Excessively massive fireplaces are not easy to place in small room, and besides, they have a complex internal structure, inaccessible to a beginner in the furnace business self-construction. Another thing is the corner fireplace. We can say that this option is suitable even for the smallest room, since it occupies a “modest” part usable area, but is able to fully bring maximum comfort to the house and create a special style.

In addition, a do-it-yourself corner fireplace step-by-step instruction the construction of which is necessary for independent construction, even a novice stove maker can try to build it.

Advantages of a corner fireplace

There are corner fireplaces various models. Some of them are made only from brick, while others are combined from metal elements and brickwork. Which one is better to choose will depend on the preferences of the homeowner and his financial capabilities. It should be noted that a combined fireplace will cost slightly less than one in the construction of which only brick was used.

It is worth evaluating the advantages of a corner fireplace in order to understand how profitable it is to install it in certain conditions:

• The first is saving money on material for construction, since much less of it will be required than for the construction of a wall-mounted or island fireplace.
• The second is the rational use of space, since the compactness of the structure allows it to be installed in a small country house, and in a cottage with a fairly large area.
• Third, this is a relatively simple ordering scheme that even a novice master can understand. Even if the external masonry is not entirely successful, it can be closed finishing material, such as decorative plaster, ceramic or ready-made stone portal. Moreover, some options for applying plaster can be made in the form of complex exclusive relief patterns.
• And finally, the aesthetic and functional value of the building. A fireplace will make the room cozy, which will allow you to spend rainy days and evenings near it in comfort.

Fireplace project

Preliminary sketches

In order for the process of erecting a corner fireplace in the room to be successful, it is necessary first of all to make a detailed project and sketch of the future heating structure. It is better, of course, to lay the foundation of the fireplace together with the foundation of the house, but you need to remember that they should not be connected to each other.

You can fit a corner fireplace into one of the rooms of an already built house, but you will have to make careful calculations so that its chimney does not rest against the attic floor beam or rafter leg.

Design work is carried out as follows:

• First you need to determine the room and the corner in it where the fireplace will be installed.
• Next, on a sheet of paper you need to make a small drawing-sketch, which will allow you to visually determine how the chosen option will be “in place” in this particular room and in its design style.
• After this, taking into account the design diagram of the attic floor and rafter system, a fireplace design drawing is created.

Corner fireplaces may differ from each other in some design elements. For example, in its lower part you can arrange a chamber for drying firewood, or a blower chamber equipped with a door or metal drawer. Brick cabinets are sometimes placed on both sides of the fireplace insert, used as decorative shelves for installing fireplace accessories or floor vases.

The fireplace insert may have different shapes. It can be rectangular, square, trapezoidal or semicircular. Each developed model has its own version of the flask niche. When choosing a fireplace for yourself, you need to immediately pay attention to this element, since it will be difficult to redo it later.

In addition, a corner fireplace can have a firebox made of fireclay bricks or a finished metal firebox built into the structure. Such metal chambers are equipped with a door with heat-resistant glass, which allows you to enjoy the view of the fire and at the same time does not let combustion products into the room. For those who love open fire and the aroma of burning wood, the door will not be an obstacle, since it can always be opened.

All the desired elements must be immediately included in the design and sketch of the fireplace, and then try to select an order based on it, developed by professional stove makers.

Calculations of linear parameters of the fireplace

In order for the fireplace to function normally and meet all safety criteria, you need to know what should be taken into account when making calculations:

For high-quality and safe operation of any heating device, it is necessary to create optimal draft - in order to eliminate smoke in the premises and, at the same time, to retain heat for the longest possible time. In addition, normal draft will help to quickly light the fireplace and maintain acceptable fire intensity. The overall design of the fireplace should combine:

• High heat transfer, fast and uniform heating of the structure.
• The fireplace should not cool down the house when not in use, that is, it is necessary to create conditions for blocking the chimney pipe.
• Aesthetic appearance and compactness.

It is these factors that are taken into account and calculated during the preparation of the project. They largely depend on the area that the fireplace must heat.

Fireplace insert

Choosing the right firebox size directly affects heating the room and creating a comfortable atmosphere.

The size of this element is calculated based on the area of ​​the room. To simplify this, the area is divided by 50 - the resulting value will show the approximate size of the firebox window. Yes, for small room a fireplace with a combustion opening with an area of ​​0.32 to 0.54 m² is sufficient.

You can use a table that will help you easily calculate this important parameter for good fireplace functionality:

Dimensions of various fireplace elements, mm	Room area, m².
	12	15	20	25	30	40
Portal width	400	500	600	700	800	900
Portal height	420	490	560	630	700	770
Firebox depth	300	320	350	380	400	420
Rear wall height	At least 360
Firebox rear wall width	300	400	450	500	600	700
Smoke collector height	570	600	630	660	700	800
Cross-section of a chimney with rough internal walls	140×270	140×270	270×270	270×270	270×400	270×400
Section of a chimney with smooth internal walls	140×140	140×270	140×270	270×270	270×270	270×270

The best proportions for a fireplace window are considered to be 3:2, and the height should be less than the width of the fireplace.

An equally important parameter is the depth of the combustion chamber - the efficiency of the fireplace will directly depend on it. According to standards, it should be equal to ⅔ or ½ of the height of the firebox.

If the specified parameters are ill-considered, for the sake of economy or appearance increase, then heat transfer is significantly reduced, since most of heat will go directly into the pipe. All that remains is to admire the intense flame from the fire, barely having time to add wood to the fireplace.

And when the depth of the combustion chamber is reduced in relation to its height, there is a risk of regularly getting smoke in the room - this means soot and soot on the walls, ceiling, furniture and accessories. And the operation of such a fireplace will be extremely unsafe

Smokey for fireplace

To prevent smoke from occurring, in addition to the correct calculation of the firebox, the parameters of the chimney will be no less important, since they also affect the creation of normal draft and the burning activity of wood.

It is necessary to correctly determine the diameter of the channel or the size of the rectangular cross-section of the chimney opening and the height of the pipe. According to safety standards, the diameter of the chimney cannot be less than 150 ÷ ​​170 mm, or the rectangular cross-section must be 1/10 of the size of the combustion chamber.

The chimney pipe usually rises no lower than five meters, but sometimes a greater height is required. This parameter will depend on the area of ​​the roof in which it will be located, and on the height of the roof ridge.

Fireplace materials and necessary tools

Having drawn up a project and made calculations, they proceed to the selection and purchase of building materials. You need to decide right away whether the fireplace will be finished decorative material, or its masonry is planned to be done “for jointing”. This determines which brick can be chosen for laying.

Since the work on constructing a fireplace begins with the foundation, and only after it is ready they proceed to laying out the firebox and chimney, then start listing necessary materials it's worth it.

Foundation

Since the planned structure is not as massive as a full-fledged furnace, there is no need to build a strong foundation. If a slab, well-buried foundation was built for the house, then it will be quite suitable as a base for a light corner fireplace. If the foundation is strip, then additional work will have to be done on the base for the fireplace.

• Waterproofing is necessary for any structure - it will reliably protect it from capillary penetration of moisture from the soil and will allow it to stand without damage long time. Therefore, it is necessary to purchase a waterproofing material - it can be roofing felt or thick polyethylene film.
• Crushed stone and sand will be required to construct foundation cushions and make concrete mortar.
• To make formwork you will need a board. There are two methods of making formwork: temporary and stationary. When choosing a temporary option, after the foundation gains strength and is ready for further work, the formwork is dismantled, and a sand-gravel mixture is poured into the gaps left between the soil and concrete.

In addition to formwork boards, they are often used a metal sheet, especially in cases where the foundation has a semicircular or other complex shape.

• Reinforcement in the form of metal rods with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm. The reinforcing bars are tied together with steel wire, forming a mesh.

Another option is to purchase a ready-made reinforcing steel mesh with cells of 50 - 80 mm.

Fireplace walls and chimney

To build the fireplace and chimney itself, you will need the following materials:

• To lay the walls, firebox and chimney, it will be necessary to purchase two types of solid bricks - red and fireclay.

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

— If the fireplace will be decorated with paneling, then you need to choose a high-quality ceramic brick. In the case where the external decoration of the fireplace is intended, working (ordinary) brick is also suitable.

— Fireclay fire-resistant brick is used for laying the combustion chamber and the beginning of the chimney.

Prices for ceramic bricks

ceramic brick

Bricks are calculated individually, and this quantity depends on the order and model chosen. Even a small corner fireplace may require from 350 to 650 pieces. When purchasing a brick, you need to add 10 ÷ 12% reserve to the total quantity - it will be useful in case of defective copies or unexpected damage as a result of adjustment in accordance with the order.

• For masonry mortar can be used traditional materials, such as clay, sand and cement. However, it should be noted that for furnace work it is very difficult to choose the desired fat content of clay and optimal proportions, and if you have no experience in this process, then it is better to use ready-made compounds, requiring only proper preparation, the technology of which is indicated on the packaging. Such masonry compositions can be purchased in specialized stores in the form of dry building mixtures.

You need to know one more subtlety recommended by experienced stove makers - laying the combustion chamber, carried out with fireclay bricks, should be performed on a rubbed solution made of clay with minimal additions of cement and sand to it.

Prices for heat-resistant mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves

masonry heat-resistant mixture

• Steel corners measuring 40×40 or 50×50. The length of these elements is selected depending on the width of the combustion chamber, drying chamber or ash chamber. 300 ÷ 400 mm is added to the dimensions of these chambers, and the resulting value is multiplied by two, since the corners will be laid on both sides of the chambers.
• If you choose a fireplace model with a semicircular firebox overlap, you will have to prepare a template from a board, plywood or metal sheet. Loose bricks or timber beams can be used for supports.

• The chimney can be made of brick or made of metal. If the latter option is chosen, then a pipe must be purchased at least five meters long, but to find out more precisely how much it will be needed, you need to take measurements at the installation site of the fireplace, from its top to the height of the ridge.
• For brick chimney You will need a fireplace damper with a long handle.

• For metal pipe a built-in adjusting element - gate will be required.

Stainless steel chimney element - damper

• If you decide to build a ready-made cast iron or steel firebox into the fireplace, then this is what you buy instead of fireclay bricks. It must be said that installing a finished firebox into a fireplace will greatly simplify and speed up the work, since it will be lined with bricks of a ready-made shape.
• Since the fireplace will be installed in a corner, the walls forming the corner must be insulated from exposure to high temperatures. For this, heat-resistant plasterboard or asbestos sheets are purchased.

• For cladding a building you can use different materials- it could be facing tiles, imitating stone, ceramic tile, decorative plaster or even a ready-made portal made of natural or artificial stone.

You may be interested in information on how to knead correctly.

Required Tools

To lay any fireplace, you need to prepare the following tools:

1 – a hammer-pick will be needed to split bricks.

2 – trowels of different configurations, small in size for applying and leveling the mortar.

3 – a large trowel (trowel) for mixing and applying the solution to large surfaces.

4 – the construction level requires control over the horizontal and verticality of the masonry and seams.

5 – plumb line for checking the verticals of the walls.

6 – laser level(if possible) to simplify the process of marking the floor and walls.

7 – cord along which each of the rows of masonry will be output.

8 - mallet (wooden or rubber mallet) for leveling bricks in a row.

9 – the rule is used to level the poured foundation and to check the evenness of the fireplace walls.

10 – containers for mixing the solution and for water.

11 - jointing to give the seams a neat shape.

Preparatory work

Pouring the foundation

If you have to start work from the foundation, then it is carried out according to one scheme, in the following order:

• Before erecting a foundation for it, it is necessary to make a recess of 400 ÷ 500 mm in the soil under the floor. It should have the shape of the base of the fireplace, but 100 ÷ 120 mm wider.
• Next, sand is poured into the bottom of the pit - it will become the first layer of waterproofing for the foundation. The thickness of this layer when compacted should be 100 ÷ 120 mm. In order to achieve maximum density of the sand layer, it is moistened with water during the compaction process.
• A backfill of crushed stone is made on top of the sand cushion, which is also compacted. Its layer should be the same thickness as the sand layer.

• Next, reinforcement elements are laid on the crushed stone.
• Then the walls of the house are fenced off from the future foundation with asbestos sheets, which will protect them from high temperatures and help retain heat inside the room.
• The next stage is the installation of formwork. If the base is semicircular, as shown in the photo, then the most optimal An option would be to fence it with a metal sheet, which is supported by stacks of bricks.

For a foundation with straight lines at the base (rectangle, trapezoid, etc.), the formwork is most often made from boards that are knocked together. If gaps have formed between the boards, then the inside of the formwork is covered with dense polyethylene film. It will not only prevent the solution from leaking out, but will also retain moisture in the solution for a longer period, which will allow it to set and gain strength evenly.

• When the formwork is ready, you can mix the solution. It is advisable to fill the entire volume of the foundation in one go, but its first layer can be made coarser, consisting of a sand-gravel mixture and 4:1 cement. The thickness of this layer can be 120 ÷ 150 mm.

On top of it, a thinner layer of cement and sand mortar is immediately poured in a ratio of 1:3.

• The surface of the foundation is leveled using a rule, covered with plastic film and left to mature. This method of caring for freshly poured concrete is especially appropriate if the foundation is being built in the summer when high temperatures outdoors, when moisture evaporates at an accelerated pace.

Roofing material is laid on top of the finished, brand-strength foundation in two or three layers.

Preparing for brickwork

Every master stove maker has own secrets masonry heating structures, which were acquired during a long period of work. It would be nice to know about several of them before starting to build a fireplace.

• Laying the fireplace begins only three to four weeks after pouring the foundation, since the concrete must be well strengthened.
• If the masonry will be carried out using clay mortar, then before starting work the brick is soaked in water for one and a half to two days. A brick soaked in water will no longer absorb moisture from the mortar too intensively, and this will allow drying to proceed evenly, which will prevent cracking at the seams.

• In order to avoid serious errors in the order and carefully understand the configuration of each row, even experienced stove builders, when starting the construction of a new stove model, lay the entire structure “dry”, without using mortar. If you follow this procedure, the main laying of the mortar will be much easier and faster.

In addition, by laying out the fireplace “dry” you can immediately adjust the bricks to the right size and number them, putting the number of the row and the location of this element in it. It should be taken into account that the seams between the rows and bricks should have a width of 8 ÷ 10 mm.

• Well, there is one more everyday point that must be taken into account - when carrying out similar works Dust and dirt will inevitably form in the room. To prevent things from being damaged, it is recommended to take them out of the room or cover them with thick plastic film, with sheets overlapping by 500 mm.

These subtleties will greatly facilitate and simplify both work and cleaning after completion of the masonry. Having studied all the nuances of the preparatory work, you can proceed directly to the masonry.

You might be interested in information about what it is

Laying a corner fireplace

So that you can choose suitable option, you can consider several ordering schemes - simple and more complex. And everyone will decide for themselves which model will be easier for them to complete.

First option

This version of the fireplace is quite complex due to the unusual shape of the combustion chamber, but if desired, it can also be brought to life, based on the description of the features of each row of the diagram.

• Row 1 - you need to work on it extremely carefully and carefully, since the quality of all further masonry will depend on it.
• Row 2 – a niche is formed in which a box for collecting ash will be installed.
• Row 3 – laid out according to the pattern. A hole is left in the middle part of the surface for discharging ash from the combustion chamber into the ash pan.
• 4th row - at this stage the bottom of the firebox is laid out; fireclay refractory bricks are used for this. The hole left in the previous row is covered with a cast iron grate (grid).
• Row 5 - on this row, the rear and side walls of the firebox begin to be built, which will form the portal. The walls are laid in two rows of thickness - the first is located near the wall and is made of red brick, the second, inside the firebox, is laid from fireclay, and the brick is mounted flat. The front part of the firebox floor and the side walls of the portal are also built from red brick.

• 6 ÷ 9 row– the laying is carried out according to the diagram and fully corresponds to the description of the fifth row. The walls of the combustion chamber are being erected.
• Row 10 – this row produces very important work - construction fireplace portal. It should be noted that the shape of the portal can be changed to arched or rectangular if desired. However, if the portal will have an arched or arch-like shape, it is recommended to make a template for this. In this case, it can be cut from ordinary plywood, 10 mm thick. For stability, the template must have a certain thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm, so two identical parts are cut out of plywood, between which a wide spacer is made.

The template is leveled and supported on both sides by stacks of bricks. By end side template and a brick is laid out to form a figured portal.

11 - 19 rows

• 11 ÷ 12 rows – these two rows form the inner walls of the combustion chamber and the outer walls of the fireplace. When laying out a portal in the form of an arch or the same shape as presented in this order, the bricks on the outer and inner walls are sawed off or chipped so that they fit tightly into the shape of the figured portal.
• 13 ÷ 14 rows – laid out on the back wall of the portal the so-called “mirror wall”. Its laying is carried out at an angle.

Sloping wall - “mirror”

The work can be carried out in two ways: the brick is installed at a slope, as shown in the photo, or it is laid flat with a shift towards the firebox by 40 ÷ 50 mm. In the latter case, after completing the removal of the wall, its surface will have to be leveled with a solution, since it must be smooth. It is this slope that sets the direction of the smoke rising from burning wood.

• 15 ÷ 18 rows – the rear inclined, side and front walls continue to form around the figured portal.
• Row 19 - the internal bricks of the combustion chamber are shifted towards the firebox, forming a rectangular chimney opening.

18 - 20 rows

• Row 20 is the penultimate row before completing the laying of the front wall around the portal. The upper part is laid out according to the scheme - the chimney opening continues to form.

• 21 row - completely covers the arched portal on the front wall and is displayed on even rows of masonry. The posterior inclined wall passes into so-called "tooth", which, in combination with the slope of the wall, regulates the passage of smoke to the chimney outlet.

• 22 ÷ 23 row– the “tooth” of fireclay brick continues to form. External masonry is done with red ceramic bricks.

• Row 24 - the chimney hole is made of fireclay bricks, and the surface of the mantel is made of ceramic material.

• Row 25 – the fireplace mantel is completely covered, leaving a hole for installing a chimney damper.
• Row 26 - on this row, a valve is mounted on the hole for the chimney pipe. It is best to choose an option with a long handle or gate.
• Row 27 - a ceramic or asbestos smoke pipe is installed above the valve and lined on all sides with bricks prepared to its shape. Or, an even brick is used, and the gaps between it and the pipe are filled with a solution consisting of sand and clay.
• 28 and subsequent rows - the installed round ceramic pipe is covered with brick.

It should be noted that this version of a corner fireplace will be difficult for a beginner to complete if there is no experience in designing stoves. Therefore, it is better to invite experienced craftsman who can help you avoid making mistakes.

Second option

This corner fireplace model is simpler to make, so it is quite accessible for beginners. Moreover, a detailed order is given, which is less complex compared to the design presented above. In the order diagram, the areas where red and fireclay bricks are used are highlighted in color, which makes it more understandable.

The foundation of this corner fireplace is arranged in the form of a square - this is convenient because the pre-furnace area will immediately be decorated with a heat-resistant surface, which is necessary for any heating structure.

• On waterproofed The foundation is laid with a zero row of bricks - it will become the basis for laying subsequent rows, so work on it must be carried out with special care. It must be laid out in exact accordance with the drawing shown in the diagram.
• Row 1 forms the bottom of the blower chamber and is laid out according to the presented diagram, so it will be necessary to adjust two bricks, the corners of which must be cut or carefully chipped at the desired angle.
• Row 2 - at this stage a niche is formed for drying firewood or a blower chamber. They will differ only in the presence or absence of an ash pan and a grate.

If it is decided to place a drying niche under the firebox, then on its outer side it is laid metal corner, size 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. The length of this metal profile should be 600 mm.

• Row 3 - the masonry proceeds according to the diagram, and a metal sheet measuring 600 × 400 mm and 4 ÷ 5 mm thick is mounted on top of the drying niche. If an ash pan is installed, a cast iron grate of the same size is installed instead of a metal sheet.
• Row 4 – the masonry follows the pattern if a metal sheet has been laid on top of the niche. When installing an ash pan under the firebox, the laying is carried out according to the order plan, with the exception that the grate remains open.
• Row 5 – the bottom part of the firebox is formed from fireclay bricks. It is highlighted in yellow on the diagram.

• 6 ÷ 8 rows - work is carried out in the same order: the walls of the combustion chamber are raised from red ceramic material, and the inner part of the firebox wall is formed from fire-resistant fireclay bricks, cut in half along the thickness.
• Rows 7 ÷ 9 are also mounted according to the order.
• 10 ÷ 11 rows - on the back wall a slope begins to form towards the combustion chamber, which will become the lower part of the “tooth”. In order for the slope to be even, the bricks are sharpened and adjusted to each other.
• Row 12 - at this stage, the combustion chamber is covered along the outer edge with steel corners 50x50 mm, 600 mm long.
• 13 ÷ 14 rows are laid out in order.
• Row 15 – the construction of the back wall and the “tooth” is completed, above which the chimney begins.
• 16 ÷ 17 rows - the upper part of the portal is formed, turning into the mantelpiece. The brick is laid with a shift to the outside.
• 18 ÷ 20 rows - work proceeds according to the diagram. The upper opening of the fireplace narrows with each row, forming a chimney channel.
• 21 ÷ 24 rows – laying a chimney with additional side walls.
• Rows 25 ÷ 29 – the chimney pipe is removed, while a smoke damper is installed on the 27th row.
• Starting from the 30th row, the chimney pipe is installed - it can be made of brick, or it can be installed metal version. The pipe is routed through the attic floor and then through the roof.

Third option

This model of a corner fireplace was developed by master V. Bykov and has been used for construction for many years. During this time, it became popular due to the excellent efficiency of its design.

Having a length of sides located along the walls of only 770 mm, the fireplace is quite compact and can be installed even in a small room, which is an undeniable advantage of the model.

This fireplace is equipped with a ash chamber, so for the hole in the bottom of the firebox you will need a grate measuring 250 × 250 mm. Metal strips 5 mm thick and 40 mm wide will be required for laying out the ceiling part of the ash and combustion chambers.

Work on the construction of a fireplace begins with marking the first row of masonry, which is installed with special care.

• Row 1 is laid out on waterproofed the surface of the foundation, according to the markings made in advance and in compliance with the pattern of the brickwork.
• 2 ÷ 3 rows are also laid strictly in accordance with the order pattern.
• Row 4 – the base of the combustion chamber is formed, so the middle of it is laid with fireclay bricks.
• Row 5 – the formation of the blower chamber begins. Metal inserts are installed on its side and back walls, which are securely fixed to the surface of the bricks.
• Row 6 is laid with fireclay bricks, and a grate is installed on metal inserts. You can do without inserts, but then the sides for installing the grate will have to be provided in the masonry of the previous row, moving the bricks 10 ÷ 15 mm forward.
• Row 7 – the walls of the combustion chamber are laid, as well as the sides of the portal.
• 8 ÷ 12 rows – the walls of the firebox and the side pillars of the fireplace portal are displayed.
• Row 13 – the walls are bandaged with steel strips measuring 600 × 50 × 5 mm.
• 14 ÷ 15 rows - the rear wall is laid out at a slope towards the front of the firebox - this slope is called a “mirror”. This configuration helps direct the smoke into the chimney and, at the same time, it serves as a heat reflector towards the room. The inclined part of the rear wall of the firebox, laid out at an angle of 20 degrees, smoothly passes into the ceiling and chimney pipe.
• 16th row – a horizontal surface is displayed, so-called "tooth", essentially being the completion of the “mirror” masonry. The “tooth” is coated with a solution of sand and clay, since its surface must be perfectly smooth so that soot does not accumulate on it.
• Rows 17 ÷ 19 – the inside of the front wall of the fireplace is laid out with hewn bricks, as this creates the shape of the chimney channel, which should evenly go around the “tooth”.
• 22 ÷ 22 rows - a part of the chimney duct called “higho” is mounted. It must have a size of at least 140 × 270 mm. After laying the 22nd row, a smoke valve is installed on it using a clay solution.
• Row 23 - the smoke exhaust channel continues to form, having a curved shape.
• 24 ÷ 25 rows - the curved direction is brought to the vertical position of the chimney. This hole must also have a cross-sectional size of 140 x 270 mm.
• Having reached this section of the fireplace, a metal or ceramic pipe is installed, which is covered with a metal casing or brickwork.

In order to comply with fire safety requirements, it is necessary to carefully consider the passage of the pipe through ceiling and the rafter system, since these parts of the building are made of flammable materials. They must be insulated from the chimney with special boxes filled with non-combustible materials, such as expanded clay or sand.

After completing the construction of the fireplace, its masonry should dry thoroughly. In each individual case, this process takes different time, since it depends on the massiveness of the structure and the ambient temperature.

Drying takes place with the doors and valves open. An ordinary 200 W light bulb, which is suspended in the combustion chamber and left on until the masonry mortar is completely dry, will help speed up the process.

It is better to postpone surface finishing, if planned, for several months, during which the fireplace will be actively used.

So, building a corner fireplace with one smoke exhaust duct is much easier than building one of the complex models of stoves. Therefore, study