How to make a distribution manifold for heating a house with your own hands. Homemade manifold for heated floors Do-it-yourself distribution manifold for heated floors

Not everyone has the opportunity to buy a ready-made collector, since the prices for them are often quite impressive. But it's not scary. From this article you will see that it is quite possible to assemble or even make DIY manifold for heated floors.

What do you need to assemble a manifold for a heated floor with your own hands?

The complete manifold may be prohibitively expensive. But not everything that can be in the assembly is necessary. Here is a list of what must be in the collector:

• the supply and return manifolds themselves;
• threads for ball valves (and, of course, the ball valves themselves);
• thermometers;
• tap with fitting - for filling the system;
• automatic air vents;
• threads for connecting Eurocones;
• pressure gauge

Perhaps someone will ask: "What about flow meters? Aren't they required?" - If the contours of the heated floor are the same length, then the ducts through them are already the same.

We assemble a manifold for a warm floor with our own hands

Knowing now what is required for the manifold, we can buy standard parts separately and screw them together. Such a collector will work just as well as the factory one.

If you have read materials about designing a heated floor, then you may remember that in my project there were five circuits. Accordingly, a collector is needed for five outputs. Its configuration will be as follows:

Here: 1, 2 - a collector assembled from two parts with three and two outputs, respectively; 3 - adapter; 4 - tap with fitting for filling the heated floor; 5 - automatic air vent; 6 - shut-off valve; 7 - bracket for fastening the collector; 8 - eurocone (there is only one in the picture, but I think it is clear that there are eurocones based on the number of connected branches of the heated floor.

On the left, a ball valve will be screwed onto the thread of the manifold, which is not shown in the picture.

This is only half of the collector.

The second one is here:

Here everything is the same as in the first one, only instead of a drain valve there is a pressure gauge, which is needed when testing the system.

If you attach the following thermometer to both collectors:

That will be good too. But it can be mounted not only on collectors, but also on the mixing unit. In the sense, wherever it is more convenient, attach it there. The thermometer is a overhead thermometer and is simply attached with a bracket in the desired place in the pipeline. On collectors it might look like this:

Or like this:

During assembly, threaded connections are sealed with flax tow and Unipak sealant. EXCEPT FOR EUROCONES - they are screwed on without flax and sealant!

We make a manifold for a warm floor with our own hands from polypropylene

You can make a manifold for a warm floor yourself by soldering it from pieces of polypropylene pipe and polypropylene couplings:

The manifold, which is at the top, with the Mayevsky tap (on the left, with the blue “pimply”). In design and operation, they are no different from metal ones, only in material. Since their outlets are also polypropylene, the pipes - polypropylene - are soldered to them with couplings with union nuts, and to these couplings we attach what we need.

Another example of a self-made polypropylene manifold:

Believe me, this DIY collector works great.

DIY manifold for heated floors

The underfloor heating system is the only trouble-free and more efficient alternative to traditional heating. Underfloor heating can also be used as an addition to a conventional scheme, for example for one or more rooms. Its advantage is that the system always works autonomously and does not depend on the main heating circuit. Such autonomy is provided by a do-it-yourself underfloor heating manifold, which works as a multifunctional device. What is the multitasking of the collector in the “warm floor” system?

Collector device

First of all, let’s look at the concept of “warm floor”. This is an autonomous heating system connected to the main heating ring. To make the connection as efficient as possible and to avoid heat losses at the junction points, a collector connection is used (in some cases, several collectors if there are several heating circuits in the system). The most primitive collector for a warm water floor is a section of a heat-conducting pipe from which there are bends for connecting other heating pipes.

That is, a collector is a pipe circuit for distributing coolant that directs and regulates the flow of hot water through the heating pipes in the house. The standard connection of a heated floor collector is as follows: the collector input is connected to the return or coolant supply (depending on the heating circuit), the device outputs are connected to the heated floor pipe system.

The underfloor heating collector is controlled and configured manually or automatically. For automatic operation, it is necessary to install a control unit or servo drive. The control device includes supply valves - two- or three-way. Supply valves differ from conventional valves in their ability to pass coolant in one direction. You need to install the valves especially carefully - if you install the valve in the opposite direction, it will quickly break.

The shut-off element of the supply valve is a steel ball or rod. When the valve handle is turned, the hole is blocked, and the rotation itself can be done manually or using servos connected to temperature sensors.

A two-way mixing valve allows coolant to flow in one direction, regulating the amount of hot liquid. The adjustment occurs smoothly and slowly due to the small throughput of the device.

There are several technical solutions for mixing valves, and one of them is a thermostat with a liquid sensor. Such a thermostatic head controls the temperature of the coolant in the heating circuit by opening or closing the valve, thereby regulating the supply of hot coolant flowing from the boiler into the system. The thermostat is turned on in the collector so that coolant is supplied continuously from the return pipe, and from the heating apparatus - as needed.

Thus, installing a manifold with a two-way valve ensures a constant and comfortable temperature of the coolant throughout the entire underfloor heating pipeline, and smooth temperature control is ensured by the low throughput of the device. Two-way valves are easy to install and replace, they are reliable and durable. Their only drawback is that it is not recommended to be included in heating systems that are designed for a large heating area (≥ 200m2).

The three-way supply valve has a more complex and multifunctional device, combining the capabilities of a bypass and bypass valve in one housing. The body of a three-way manifold valve has one outlet and two inlets, and the coolant is adjusted in the same way as in a two-way device - either with a steel ball or a rod. The difference between this valve is that neither the ball nor the stem completely blocks the flow of coolant, and the design itself is designed to redistribute and mix return and supply. To automatically regulate the temperature, a servo drive is built into the valve, powered by signals from temperature sensors and controllers. The servo drive controls the shut-off valves in the structure, ensuring the desired degree of flow mixing.

Three-way supply valves are installed in manifold units for large-area heated rooms - ≥ 200 m2, as well as in multi-circuit heating systems.

For heated floors, a common collector unit is most often installed, or a separate collector is installed in front of each heating circuit. If the latter option is implemented, then all collectors are equipped with flow meters, thermostats, as well as the following elements:

1. Return and supply mixing valve;
2. Shut-off valve for balancing the heating device;
3. Overflow valve.

You can assemble a collector for a heated floor yourself using different schemes, and in some schemes of collector units bypasses are used, but not always - only in single-circuit systems. If the underfloor heating system is organized according to a dual-circuit scheme, then the collector can be connected without a bypass to the secondary circuit.

Before assembling a manifold assembly for a heated floor, weigh your options - sometimes it’s easier to buy a ready-made structure. If you are going to buy a collector, it is better that all its parts and elements are from the same manufacturer. When assembling the unit yourself, you must select the material from which the main components of the unit will be assembled: copper, steel, polymers or brass.

Also, when choosing an industrial design, it is important to consider the following parameters:

1. How many heating circuits will there be in the system (usually from 2 to 12), the total length of the pipeline and the capacity of the circuits;
2. Maximum permissible pressure in pipes;
3. Possibility of expanding the heating system;
4. Manual or automatic collector control;
5. Electrical power of all components and assemblies;
6. The diameter of the internal holes of the collector (throughput).

The most efficient operation of the assembled collector units can be ensured by connecting heating circuits of equal length to them. In order to equalize the length of the pipelines with sufficient accuracy, they are divided into equal sections, which are connected to the collector. The easiest way is to calculate the collector unit in a special computer program or on an online calculator, so that the phenomenon called “thermal zebra” does not appear, that is, uneven heating of the floor.

For the calculation you will need the following data:

1. Type of decorative floor covering;
2. the area of ​​the heated room and the plan for placing large objects in it;
3. Material and diameter of circuit pipes;
4. Boiler rated power;
5. Type of floor insulation.

Important: when laying underfloor heating pipes, it is necessary to avoid pipe joints - this is prohibited by existing standards. It is also necessary to remember that the hydraulic resistance of the coolant increases with each turn of the pipeline and with increasing its length.

When designing a heated floor system, you first need to find the optimal location for installing the collector. Typically, the unit is installed in a manifold cabinet, and the cabinet itself is mounted at a height of 30-40 cm from the floor level next to the supply and return.

In order not to blame your own mistakes and ensure maximum heating of the heated floor pipes, study the instructions for connecting the collector. Then assemble the unit in the following sequence (this applies to an industrial manifold unit):

1. Unpack the tubes for forward and reverse coolant supply. The tubes must have flow meters and supply valves. If the collector is multi-sectional, assemble the sections into one structure;
2. From the assembled sections you need to assemble a unit on brackets (included in the kit);
3. Next, we install shut-off valves, automation, sensors and other connecting fittings;
4. We attach the unit to the wall or in a cabinet, install a thermostat, a servo drive and a circulation pump;
5. We connect the pipes from the boiler and the pipes from the heating circuits of the “warm floor” system.

Now the connection diagram for the heated floor collector is pressed, after which the concrete screed can be poured. Thermal adjustments of the collector can be carried out after installation of the finishing coating.

DIY collector unit

A factory manifold is a fairly expensive product, so many craftsmen want to make it themselves. You will still have to buy many elements, but the cost will be cheaper. The easiest way is to solder a homemade manifold from PVC pipes and fittings Ø 25-32 mm. You will also need tees and bends of the same diameters, and shut-off valves.

Important: a homemade collector assembly has many joints, so all soldering must be carefully checked, and not only during assembly, but also during operation of heated floors.

The number of valves and fittings is calculated by the number of heating circuits. The tools you need are a soldering iron for propylene elements and attachments for it, special scissors for cutting pipes and a tape measure.

Marking the collector consists of marking and cutting pipes of the required length, observing the minimum distance between the tees. Valves and transitions are soldered to the PVC tees with a soldering iron. Fittings for connecting the pump are soldered to this structure. As you can see, everything is simple, but it is better to buy more complex collector units ready-made.

The collector is a device responsible for the distribution of hot water and there is no way to do without it when installing a warm floor that gives the house comfort. Making it yourself and with your own hands is not easy, but it is quite possible. How to make such a device from polypropylene? Everything will become extremely clear after viewing photographs and videos about the installation of the system, as well as studying the detailed instructions.

How does a heated floor system work?

Conventional radiators, which have recently been the only possible installations for heat transfer in the house, are gradually being replaced by warm floors and ceilings. They can operate using electricity or hot water. The second option is considered more practical and, if desired, you can construct a water heated floor with your own hands. There is nothing complicated about the heating system. Its scheme includes several elements:

• Water heating boiler. It should heat the water well enough, distributed throughout all the pipes, and still have some power reserve. If this is expressed in numbers, then the additional productivity should be equal to 15-20% of the total capacity of heated floors.

Advice. When you plan to heat a room larger than 120 m², it is advisable to purchase a boiler with a built-in circulation pump or install it separately.

• To avoid having to drain water from the entire system during repairs or in the event of an accident, shut-off valves are installed at the inlet and outlet of the boiler.

Water heated floor

• Pipes, which can be polypropylene, or can be made of special cross-linked polyethylene, for distributing water and pipes for laying out the floor surface. The diameter of these pipes must be at least 16-20 mm, and they must also withstand temperatures up to 95°C and a pressure of 10 Bar.
• The collector is a splitter with taps. This is a necessary element to which several circuits are connected from the central supply line of warm water and the return intake of already cooled water.

How does the collector work?

A manifold is a kind of center of pipes, valves, pressure gauges, fittings and other auxiliary components made of metal or plastic. The device performs the function of a mixer of technical water, which comes from the heating circuits. It also distributes the coolant back through the pipes.

As a result of the operation of the collector, the water temperature in different areas is equalized and, accordingly, the air in heated rooms is stably heated.

Any heating system works according to the following principle: process water heated in the boiler is sent through connected circuits and pipes. During their passage, it cools down and, with the help of a circulation pump, returns to the collector through the return line, where it mixes with the hot coolant. The ratio of hot and cooled water is regulated by special valves, and temperature and pressure are monitored by sensors.

Collector

The temperature in conventional radiators is 70-95°C, and in a heated floor system it should be 30-50°C. If it increases, deformation of the floor covering and drying of the air in the room may occur. Walking on a hot floor will also be impossible.

It is precisely in such cases that the work of the collector is required, because the boiler is capable of producing coolant of only one temperature.

When the sensor detects an increase in temperature, the valve closes and hot water flows in smaller quantities. After the coolant has cooled, the valve opens again. Cooled process water from the return pipe is supplied under pressure, and hot water from the boiler is supplied as needed.

Components of a heated floor collector

1. Mixing valve.
2. Balancing valves and shut-off valves.
3. Pressure gauge and temperature sensor.
4. Circular pump.
5. Automatic air vent.

For self-assembly you will definitely need various fittings, adapters, nipples, etc.

Reservoir components

Self-assembly of a polypropylene manifold

To assemble the collector you will need:

• ball valves, preferably American;
• pipes with a diameter of 25 and 32 mm;
• couplings with internal thread 32x"1" and 25x3/4;
• couplings with external thread 25x3/4;
• plugs Ø32 mm;
• tees of suitable diameter;
• sealant, preferably thread sealant;
• security group;
• automatic air vent device.

Installation diagram

The distribution manifold consists of two parts. The first part receives heated process water coming from the boiler, and the second part receives the already cooled coolant, that is, the return flow.

1. All parts that make up the comb are connected using high-temperature treatment with a special soldering iron for plastic pipes.
2. An automatic air vent and a safety group are connected to one part of the collector.
3. A tap is connected for emergency drainage of water.
4. A tap and an air vent are placed on the second part of the manifold. Pipes will be connected here to return the cooled coolant.
5. A circulation pump is connected to the return line, which creates pressure and the coolant begins to forcefully move through the pipes and heating circuits. It is mounted approximately to the boiler, that is, the arrow on the pump should be directed towards the boiler. This installation will allow the device to last much longer.

Advice. To save fuel, it is better to install a three-way valve after the circular pump.

The places that were intended for soldering the tee should be left on both combs and only after accurately determining where it will be located will it be possible to weld the plugs. The presence of a tee is necessary if in the future there is a need to expand the comb.

In order for process water to circulate in the system in the correct direction, it is necessary to install a so-called “reverse” valve.

Collector installation diagram

After completing the installation of the heating circuit, you need to connect both collectors to it and install the boiler in the location planned for it. Next, you need to screw one tap into both parts of the collector. The expansion tank is soldered on the supply side. The installation is completed by connecting the heating boiler to the collectors.

Advice. If the house in which the collector is installed has two floors, then it would be reasonable to connect four heating circuits to its terminals, respectively, two for each floor.

When using autonomous heating in a private home, situations sometimes arise when the system is not efficient enough. Such a problem, in which all elements of the system are correctly designed and installed, but the temperature in the house does not reach the required level, is extremely unpleasant and requires a solution.

The most suitable solution to this problem is to install a distribution manifold. Such collector groups for heating can be purchased ready-made, or you can save money and make them yourself. How to make a heating distribution manifold with your own hands will be discussed in this article.

Purpose of the heating manifold

In any heating system, one important rule must be observed - the diameter of the pipe leaving the boiler must match or be slightly less than the total diameter of all circuits connected to this boiler. Failure to comply with this rule consistently leads to uneven distribution of the coolant.

For example, we can consider a system to which three separate circuits are connected:

• Radiator heating;
• Warm floor;
• Indirect heating boiler providing hot water supply.

The diameters of the nozzles at the outlet of the boiler and at the inlet of each of these consumers may be the same, but the total value of the latter will be an order of magnitude greater. As a result, a very simple phenomenon arises - the boiler, even if it operates at full capacity, is simply not able to simultaneously ensure the operation of all circuits connected to it. Because of this, the temperature in the house decreases.

Of course, you can try to use all circuits in turn so that they do not load the boiler at the same time. In theory, such measures seem possible, but in practice they turn out to be nothing more than half measures - after all, constant “juggling” with contours cannot be called an attribute of comfortable living in the house.

To get rid of such problems, you need to install a distribution manifold in the system. Typically, stainless steel pipes are used to make such collectors, but other options can be used - for example, polypropylene heating collectors are often found.

The design itself is a device with a set of pipes for the inlet and outlet of the coolant, as well as its separation into separate circuits. All operating parameters are adjusted using shut-off valves, which are included with any manifold.

The main function of the distribution manifold is reflected in its name - it distributes the coolant into separate circuits, and the intensity of its supply can be adjusted at each branch pipe. The result is several circuits that are completely independent from each other, each of which operates in its own temperature regime.

Of course, there is always the opportunity to simplify your work and purchase a ready-made collector, but this solution has disadvantages. Thus, the production of heating collectors at a factory simply cannot take into account the characteristics of each heating system, so you will have to compensate for the characteristics of the collector with additional elements - and this is extra costs. Homemade devices may not be as versatile as factory ones, but they are much better suited for arranging individual projects.

Collector device

Both the factory metal and homemade polypropylene manifold includes two parts:

1. The first element ensures the connection of the supply pipe leaving the boiler with the supply pipes of the heating circuits, i.e. this part of the collector distributes the heated coolant. This element of the collector is also important because it allows the circuits to be made independent, which simplifies their maintenance and repair. If there is a collector, to repair one of the circuits, it is enough to close the corresponding valve, which will stop the flow of coolant into this pipeline.
2. In the second part of the collector, pressure regulation in each circuit is ensured, due to which the intensity of coolant circulation is determined. The efficiency of all heating systems directly depends on the correct setting of the movement of hot water in the mains.

Inexperienced craftsmen very often build a set of additional elements into the system, believing that these devices will be able to optimize the heating operation. In most cases, such a solution turns out to be useless, because a lack of understanding of the reason for the decrease in heating efficiency does not make it possible to competently intervene in the heating operation. A self-assembled polypropylene manifold often turns out to be the most necessary, optimal solution to the problem of reduced heating heat transfer.

Designing a homemade collector

The first stage of work on creating a homemade distribution manifold is its design. A well-designed project will significantly simplify the work and allow you to create a high-quality welded heating manifold that is optimally suited for specific operating conditions.

Before assembling a heating collector, you need to evaluate a number of parameters of the building’s heating network:

• The number of heating circuits to which coolant must be supplied;
• Number and parameters of heating equipment (power, heating temperature, pressure, etc.);
• The need and possibility of further integration of additional elements into the heating system;
• Number of additional system elements (pumps, valves, shut-off valves, etc.).

• Electric and gas heating boilers can be connected to the collector from above or below;
• If there is a circulation pump in the heating system circuit, boilers can only be connected from the end of the collector;
• Indirect heating boilers and solid fuel boilers can be inserted into the manifold only from the end side;
• The supply of each heating circuit is connected to the manifold from above or below.

In order to accurately and clearly see how to correctly assemble a heating collector, it is worth drawing its design on paper or printing it out if the diagram was created on a computer. The presence of a clear image in accordance with the scale and the required number of elements makes it possible to check during work to prevent installation errors.

On the diagram it is necessary to indicate the dimensions of each part of the collector. For example, the distance between the supply and return pipes should be about 10-20 cm - deviations up or down will complicate the maintenance of the device. A similar distance should be between the supply and return parts of the manifold.

The main quality of a collector is functionality, but one should not forget that the device must be quite compact and decent-looking. That is why, if it is possible to make the device more accurate, it is worth making an effort.

DIY comb assembly

The collector assembly technology includes the following steps:

• In accordance with the dimensions specified in the project, the required amount of materials is prepared;
• The pipes are connected to each other as specified in the project;
• All pipes must be connected to each other using a suitable tool;
• The pipe connections must be thoroughly cleaned and treated with sealant;

• A manifold assembled by yourself must be checked for leaks by closing all pipes except one and ensuring the supply of water to it - the absence of leaks in the closed pipes indicates that the device has been assembled correctly;
• The finished distribution manifold is painted and dried;
• After the paint has hardened, the device can be installed in the location chosen for it.

Conclusion

You can create a distribution manifold comb for heating yourself without any problems. To perform this work, you just need to properly prepare, make a design for the device in advance, and then carefully and carefully carry out all the necessary assembly stages. A correctly assembled collector will fully perform all the functions assigned to it.

When designing heating and plumbing systems, it is often necessary to break down the number of fluid flows. For example, in heating systems with several circuits it is simply impossible to do without coolant distribution. One of the means to achieve the goal is a distribution manifold.

A manifold is a device for distributing liquid, which is often called a comb, apparently due to the external similarity of the manifold circuit with this object. In plumbing systems it is intended to distribute water, for example, from a supply pipe to several taps without loss of pressure.

Accordingly, if two people, for example, use water in the bathroom and in the kitchen, the pressure in the pipes and the water pressure will be equal for both.

The collector simplifies the distribution of water to different places; you can easily make connections to a washing machine, bathtub, sink, or drain tank. There is one target pipe from the collector to the consumer without unnecessary wiring and soldering, which not only simplifies, but also increases the reliability of the system.

In heating systems, combs are used to distribute coolant along circuits; heating is usually divided into sections. For example, the first circuit is a radiator heating system, the second is a warm floor on the same floor. In this case, it is necessary to distribute the coolant from the heater to the circuits and create a return closed system.

Without a collector, such a design will be extremely complex, it will require much more effort and material in order to implement heating, it will be labor-intensive to maintain and less reliable in operation.

The collector distributes the coolant with uniform pressure and returns the coolant from all circuits back to the heater. This method makes the closed system simple and reliable.

It is important! The main factor in the performance of the comb is that the inlet hole for the liquid must have a diameter equal to or larger than the outlet holes.

Characteristics of polypropylene collectors

Polypropylene is non-toxic and, during normal use, completely harmless to both the user and the environment. The material can only release harmful vapors when burning. The melting point of polypropylene is 160 – 170 ºC.