How cabinet furniture is structured: furniture materials and components. Assembly of cabinet furniture

Practical guide for those who decided to independently assemble a wall slide purchased at a furniture store.

Due to the availability of the information provided and step-by-step recommendations, even an amateur can handle assembling a wall of furniture for the living room.

Usually, all purchased furniture is equipped with some kind of instructions, where all stages of work are perfectly described.

So let's get started...

Let's look at each step step by step:

1 Instructions from the manufacturer

Carefully read the instructions from the manufacturer. It usually contains important information on furniture assembly, list of parts, names of furniture fittings, installation methods, warranty provided and operating rules.

2 Preparing the site for assembly

Prepare a place to work: clear the room of disturbing objects, completely clear the area where the assembled wall is expected to stand, spread an unnecessary blanket, carpet or cardboard on the floor (to prevent damage to the floor covering).

3

Sort the parts by size and color; it is also better to set the facades aside separately (so as not to accidentally damage them).

4 Assembly of large structures

It is always necessary to start assembly with larger structures. Therefore, if there is a cabinet or pencil case in the wall, start with them.

5

If holes have already been drilled in the parts, then all you have to do is screw together the sides, roof and bottom of the cabinet, not forgetting about the stationary shelves.

If there are no holes, you should draw them relative to the thickness of the chipboard (chipboard 16 mm - distance to the center of the hole - 8 mm; chipboard 18 mm - distance to the center of the hole - 9 mm).

6

After the main structure is assembled, you should nail the back wall (fibreboard) and screw the legs (supports).

Usually, in order to save money, furniture walls are equipped with two types of legs: cheap plastic and beautiful metal (it’s good if both are adjustable in height).

Screw the metal legs in front, and the plastic ones in the back of the cabinet.

7

Once you have assembled the dimensional modules, you can begin attaching the facades.

8 Installation of glass doors

Again, it's best to start with larger cabinets. Be especially careful when hanging glass doors.

Use special bushings for furniture handles and the necessary plugs for hinges.

Step-by-step instruction:

  • put a loop on the glass facade;

  • screw the hinge to the side of the cabinet;

  • put the plug on the loop;

  • install furniture handles;

  • screw the shock absorbers to smoothly close the hinged glass doors;

  • Check the operation of the shock absorbers by pressing them.

Other swing facades are installed in the same sequence.

9 Assembling drawers and installing them

Drawers are assembled strictly according to the diagram. Some of the guides are attached to the sides of the opening where the boxes will presumably go, and some are attached to the sides of the rack itself.

10

Adjust the legs of all wall elements to the level.

11 Installation of removable shelves

Now is the time to install removable shelves inside cabinets and hang oversized items.

If the wall needs to have a hanging shelf between the pencil case and the cabinet, first measure the actual distance between them and check with the parts you have left in stock.

If the sizes match, you can start drilling the wall.

Assemble the shelf itself, if it consists of several parts, and attach the eyes to it.

Place the shelf in the designated space. If necessary, additionally attach to the sides of adjacent cabinets.

12

The only thing left to do is adjust all the facades. It is better to start adjusting with hinged ones, gradually moving to retractable ones.

Congratulations, you were able to assemble the wall yourself!

Now your home has another functional storage for things, bed linen, dishes and books, and the living room has become much more comfortable.

Enjoy comfort and start saving for new furniture, and we will tell you how to assemble it.

(modena select=23, All living rooms here >)

FURNITURE ASSEMBLY

Nuances that neither an amateur nor a professional assembler will tell you about

If you bought new furniture and do not intend to assemble it yourself (for whatever reason), you will need furniture assembly services. From this article you will learn how these services differ from each other, and you will be able to understand whether you need our help.

WARNING

I must warn you right away that this is a serious matter. It's not about little things that aren't worth paying attention to. Build quality is at stake and appearance your furniture, which will probably serve you for many years. I think you will agree that it should be beautiful, strong, reliable, and this is IMPORTANT.

Therefore, it is equally important to clearly understand in advance WHO will assemble your furniture. Because collectors are different, but you would like to remember them kind words, not curse words. It is this difference that I will talk about. So this is not a stupid sheet of text for the sake of search engine optimization, A useful article, which will help you avoid disappointments and surprises when assembling furniture.

EXPERIENCE OF A FRIEND

A friend of mine bought a new kitchen and had it assembled by someone who seemed like a specialist. She did not control the process, because the apartment was being renovated, and the installer came there himself. When she decided to look at (as she thought) already ready-made kitchen, it turned out that the assembler assembled only a few cabinets in a few days. Although everything could be done in 1 day! And when he finally finished the work, he hung the doors of the wall cabinets without looking, although there was a general design on the front side. I had to call him again to rearrange the doors, and my friend spent a lot of her time on this.

VARIETIES OF FURNITURE ASSEMBERS

Let's move on to specifics. When you choose who to entrust the assembly of your furniture, keep in mind that there are three types of assemblers, and if you live in the vicinity of Yaroslavl - four types (because it is in this region that we work). So, the types of collectors:

    amateurs

    shabby people

    professionals

    Belikov brothers

Now let's talk about everything in order.

AMATEURS

Amateurs are novice assemblers who want to make money assembling furniture and were able to convince you that they are experts. At the same time, they either have no experience and the necessary skills at all, or, due to their intellectual organization, are not able to learn from their mistakes and improve their skills.

They will unpack your furniture and spend a long time studying the instructions and figuring it out. Then they start assembling and in the middle they realize that they have mixed up the parts. They will redo it. When it's almost done, you'll find that you forgot something you should have done in the first place (like attaching drawer slides). You will either have to take everything apart again, or do it with great inconvenience. As a rule, amateurs have a minimum of tools, which also significantly slows down the assembly process. As a result, you will lose a lot of time; it is not very pleasant to watch such work, especially if you do not trust the assemblers 100% and are worried about your furniture.

How do I know? Because we ourselves went through this. We were new, we made mistakes and did it over. This is a passed stage, and we are not ashamed of it, because we have always worked conscientiously, and our clients were satisfied even then. But we are rather an exception, and in general, when you turn to amateurs, you run a big risk, because they can simply break something.

It’s easy to identify amateurs: ask what experience they have, how much furniture they’ve already assembled, ask for photographs of completed work. Find out what set of tools they use. Pay attention to how the interlocutor answers: quickly and clearly or uncertainly, with pauses. This way you can distinguish a beginner from an experienced person.

SHABASHNIKI

Shabashniks are assemblers who already have some experience and a set of tools. As a rule, these people are quite direct, assertive and even rude. They do not stand on ceremony with clients, they do not care about other people's concerns. They also don't worry about quality. Perhaps you sense a negative emotional connotation in the word “shabashniks”. That’s right, this is not a very respected category of workers.

They simply assemble your furniture, making small mistakes from time to time, which they do not pay attention to. Sacrificing quality, they do everything quite quickly and work cheaply. In general, their main advantage is their low price. In fact, this is the only thing they can offer, so they always quote a low price and are ready to bargain. But don’t be surprised if during the process or at the end of the work they tell you a completely different amount.

It’s not a shame for the covens to change the terms of the contract retroactively, and they will try to increase their value when you have nowhere to go. This is where their assertive and rude communication style comes in handy. However, if you don’t give in, you won’t have to pay too much. Like this. You will still have to defend the already agreed upon price.

Shabashnikov can be seen in their conversation; they communicate confidently and not too attentively. They are not interested in your problems and experiences, only the matter at hand, and even then without details. Sometimes this "no detail" thing results in them missing a tool or another problem that causes the job to take longer.

PROFESSIONALS

Professionals are people who earn money by assembling furniture, have extensive experience and position themselves as experts. They have already assembled so much furniture that they often don’t even look at the instructions. At the same time, professionals can be either polite and pleasant young people or serious, withdrawn men. They have all the necessary tools.

The main value of professionals is speed. They have no emotions about their work. It is important for them to pack up your furniture as quickly as possible and leave - either for the next order or for a vacation. On the one hand, this is an advantage because you will spend a minimum of your time. On the other hand, professionals often go too far in their quest to save time. They save seconds where it is already unnecessary. For example, they tighten Euroscrews with a screwdriver without adjusting the force. As a result, they drive the screws into the chipboard all the way to the middle of the board, so that decorative coating in the place of the hole it cracks and breaks off, and the strength of the connection is reduced by half.

This is ugly and, in our opinion, unprofessional. Instead of saving this half a second, it is wiser to adjust the screwdriver for tightening or tighten all the screws with a wrench manually. This will take an extra minute, but the furniture will look beautiful and, if necessary, will survive several more disassemblies and reassemblies and more than one move.

I would like to believe that I am wrong, but the experience of communicating with professional assemblers convinces me every time that haste is a common problem among professionals. They are too accustomed to their work, for them it is a routine, they simply do not bother (it is especially sad when such assemblers work for hire, for example, in a furniture store, because in this case they still do not feel personal responsibility for their work). But the prices for their services can vary significantly from very loyal to unreasonably inflated.

BELIKOV BROTHERS

Let me make a reservation right away: don’t be misled by the fact that I put ourselves as the fourth point. This doesn't mean we better than professionals. More precisely, it is YOU who decides who is best for you.

The Belikov brothers are my brother and I, Ivan and Dmitry. We have been assembling furniture for a long time, but not very often. We have a lot of experience and many tools, but we always carefully study the instructions. We still have room to grow; we can be considered emerging professionals.

And this is our main advantage. We haven't gotten bored with work yet. We didn't lose our emotions. We assemble furniture as if it were our own, and the relationship with each client is important to us. We take into account your wishes and concerns and do our best to make you feel comfortable and calm. We take our time during assembly and do everything as carefully as possible. We put quality first - and pay for it with our time. And guess what? We can afford to spend a few extra minutes to ensure that your furniture is assembled beautifully and neatly!

FOR EXAMPLE

When we assembled this wall, we had to tinker with installing a pneumatic lift for the door that opens up. There were no markings, and the instructions allowed for too much error. Moreover, there are two elevators, and they must be installed symmetrically. I spent almost 15 minutes measuring and double-checking everything. Then another 2 minutes to install the elevators - and they are perfect.

Another example: we are assembling a cabinet and see that the shelf protrudes slightly beyond the side wall, and the raw edge of the chipboard, half a millimeter wide, is visible from the side. This is because Euroscrews allow the parts to move slightly relative to each other. We can leave it like that, but we loosen the screws, place the shelf nicely and tighten the screws back.

You don't have to pay extra for such important, time-consuming little things. You don't need to worry about them. This is how we always work. That is why our work costs more than the work of covens. By contacting us, you will receive high quality work taking into account your wishes and friendly communication. But you will have to allow a little more time if you want to be personally present during the assembly, because we will not rush. We assembled the wall in the first photo in 5.5 hours.

ASSUMPTION

Despite the extensive personal experience and talking to a lot of furniture assemblers, I have to admit that I could be wrong. It is possible that both polite shabatniks and not too hasty professionals work in Yaroslavl. If so, that's great. I’m writing about my personal experience in a particular region, even if you don’t like it too much. But honestly and without embellishment.

LET'S SUM UP

Working with amateurs can be very cheap, but it takes a long time and is very risky. Shabashniks will also offer a low price, but they may try to increase it during the assembly process. In addition, some of them are careless. Remember the story of how a friend of mine waited almost a week to have her kitchen assembled, which was assembled in a day? The question is, is this loss of time worth the amount you will save? You don't pay for quality here - don't expect it.

Professionals work clearly, quickly and quite accurately, but are often in too much of a hurry. As a result, your furniture does not look 100% and could be stronger, but it is assembled quickly. However, this is not a death sentence either; you may meet excellent pickers. The price depends greatly on the company or employees. How to choose? Chat with the collector, ask your questions, evaluate his answers and disposition. It’s good if someone can recommend you a trusted specialist. Most The best way- observe (if possible) how the person works.

Now you can imagine how furniture assembly services differ and why different people different prices. You can also decide what services you want to order for yourself and why.

ASSEMBLY OF FURNITURE FROM BELIKOV BROTHERS

If you want to contact us, we will be happy to help. We work in Yaroslavl, if necessary, we can travel to the region or another city. Our experience is more than three years, we have a customer with a network of their own furniture stores, whose furniture we regularly assemble. And also many clients for whom we have assembled furniture from small bedside tables to complete room furnishings.

You can see some of the furniture we have collected in the section, and read customer reviews in the section

Every person strives to organize his space in such a way that he feels maximum comfort. However, in addition to a decent aesthetic appearance, its functionality is important, which is why many residents make cabinet furniture with their own hands country houses And summer cottages. Many people do not have experience in this matter, so they often turn to ready-made instructions.

Before you start learning the assembly process yourself, it is first important to prepare the necessary tools:

  1. Screwdriver. You will need it to tighten various parts: bolts, confirmations, screws. With their help, prepared parts of the fittings are necessarily attached. Exists alternative way assembly - using ordinary screwdrivers, but in this case the whole process may take some time. long time, and not every person has such an opportunity.
  2. It is advisable to immediately purchase drills of various diameters. In many construction stores they are sold as a set (from 4.5 to 10mm). This will also save time searching for everyone necessary materials, especially since such a tool may be useful in the future;
  3. A drill for confirmation is purchased separately. In this case, drilling a 5 mm hole can cost very little. a short time. For steps without special costs the hole expands to 7mm;
  4. In order to tighten the confirmat efficiently and tightly, it is recommended to purchase a hexagon. As an alternative, some home craftsmen use a screwdriver equipped with special bits, but with this design, hard to reach places it is impossible to get through;
  5. Anyone who wants to assemble cabinet furniture should have a Forsnel drill, since it is used to tighten hinges and other fittings;
  6. Marking supplies: ruler, pencil or bright felt-tip pen, metal square, tape measure, stationery knife;
  7. Circular saw;
  8. Electric jigsaw;
  9. A hammer, preferably with a nail puller (will be needed if you need to dismantle individual elements);
  10. Construction hair dryer.

If the furniture does not have any special features, when assembling it is recommended to use universal diagrams that are designed for a drilling angle of 90 degrees. Unfortunately, such a device cannot be called budget option, therefore, such an acquisition is advisable only when assembly becomes a professional trade.

Manufacturing technologies

Answering the question of how to make cabinet furniture at home, we divide the whole process into several stages.

Cutting out the parts that make up the overall structure

When you plan to work with chipboard, it is impossible to do without cutting. Using a machine, we cut chipboard, on which we distribute all the workpieces in advance. This will help reduce material consumption. It is recommended to use a high-performance machine, due to which the optimal sawing frequency is achieved, since a scoring saw is installed here.

It’s easier to work with ready-made laminated chipboards. In stores you can buy options covered with a decorative layer to suit every taste. All that remains is to cut out the necessary parts from them. If the furniture is made from unprocessed raw materials, then you need to paste over the already cut parts. Cladding can be done self-adhesive film or special plastic.

We take measurements

We make cuts with a machine

Processing slices

Before assembling the cut parts, you need to process the cuts. For this purpose, adhesive-based edge tape is used. Before work, it is important to pay attention to the conditions in the room:

  • The humidity percentage should be as low as possible;
  • It must be warm to avoid deformation of the material.

For pasting parts edge tape a mock-up or construction knife and an ordinary iron. Most often, the edge is sold with an already sticky layer, and no additional surface treatment is required.

You can use a professional iron. During operation, it is important to keep it at a certain distance from the surface in order to avoid displacement and secure all parts tightly in place.

It is important to remember that the iron must be held on the edge without a large number of time, otherwise it will overheat and bubble. As soon as the edge is fixed and takes a certain position, take a knife, trim the edge and smooth out all the irregularities with sandpaper.

Trim off unnecessary parts

Glue the edge

Marking points for fittings

The finished parts must be laid out on a flat surface. Next, mark the locations for attaching the fittings, in accordance with the plan. finished product. Check all dimensions; an error of just 1 mm can cause the entire structure to become distorted. The cabinets will stop opening, the doors will not fit together correctly. Next, you need to drill all the holes of the required diameter to secure the fittings.

Lay out the parts on the floor

Creating markup

Drilling holes

We fasten the fittings

Installation

After the work with the fittings is completed, we proceed to assembling all the elements. Many newcomers to this business first turn to video instructions, which not only show the order of assembling a certain model, but also give practical advice How not to confuse the whole process. We collect the nodes. This is the final stage when it is necessary to assemble all the prepared parts into a single structure. It is important to perform all operations sequentially.

Step-by-step instruction

First you need to determine what cabinet furniture is made of. The most common and available materials are considered laminated chipboard, fiberboard or chipboard. Solid wood is more reliable and stronger, but it costs more and is more difficult to work with.

Design

All instructions for creating cabinet furniture can be divided into two stages. The first is the design of cabinet furniture. This stage involves artistic or graphic image all elements (drawings of cabinet furniture). This is a complex undertaking, since a project diagram must be correctly developed to help visualize the necessary functionality of the furniture.

Just a few years ago, such a project could only be developed by a qualified designer, but with the help of modern applications and programs, you can work on the task yourself. To draw up a clear plan for designing cabinet furniture with your own hands, it is worth determining what information should be contained in it:

  1. On a separate plan you need to draw overall design premises to visualize the position and appearance of cabinet furniture;
  2. All dimensions are included in the project - section dimensions, height, depth;
  3. All the details that will serve as the basis of cabinet furniture are worked out, drawings of facades with the required dimensions are included;
  4. The texture and color scheme are selected.

On the Internet you can find special 3D programs with which you can recreate absolutely any furniture project. In the functions you can set special parameters and even select the material from which you plan to create the desired interior items. The main advantage of such services is that there is no need to study information on how to calculate dimensions or draw “the old fashioned way,” especially since not every person has such skills. The finished version is printed on a printer as a photo project, and then it’s a matter of technique and practical skills.

Graphic rendering common project determines the success of the planned business, but the creation of details is an equally important undertaking. First of all, everyone should think about what functions the furniture should perform and only after that start drawing. Correct sizing is a determining factor in the success of all further assembly. Otherwise, the part may not fit into place, which means that its shape will need to be adjusted, which means additional financial expenses. Even if the plans include making an ordinary storage cabinet, each detail should appear from a separate perspective in the drawing:

  1. Back wall;
  2. Front Panel;
  3. Side walls;
  4. Each shelf;
  5. Door.

As for the parts that will be retractable, they are also drawn separately from the rest.

We create the overall design

We take measurements

We create color design

Creating parts

The production of parts is carried out according to the general instructions:

  1. Selecting the material from which the parts will be formed;
  2. Creating a project on a computer using a 3D program or drawing by hand on whatman paper;
  3. Making patterns by printing on a printer or making patterns by hand;
  4. Transferring blanks to the material by tracing patterns with a pencil or bright marker;
  5. Sawing using a high-performance machine;
  6. Edge processing, grinding if necessary;
  7. Drilling holes for fasteners.

Choosing manufacturing materials

Let's make a project

Creating patterns and cutting materials

We cut chipboard

Sanding the coating

Making holes

Assembly

When transitioning from constructing furniture with your own hands to assembly, the entire process can be described in the following steps:

  1. All present fittings (hinges, locks, ties, runners) are attached to the main parts;
  2. Assemble the frame and back wall, mount the mirrors;
  3. They check the fittings, attach handles, plugs, and install retractable elements in their places.

Depending on what piece of furniture you plan to assemble, the process may differ slightly, but the basic procedure remains the same. So that every person planning to create furniture with his own hands understands how he needs to act, we can analyze the whole process using the example of creating an ordinary cabinet.

We fasten the fittings

Assembling the frame

We mount the handles

We attach the plugs

Stage 1. Frame

The cut parts are connected according to the plan. To perform the screed, it is first recommended to prepare a screwdriver with special bits. Twisting will happen much faster than with a screwdriver. In addition, much less effort will be spent on such work. It is important to ensure maximum structural strength, so it is not recommended to use nails to strengthen the bottom of the cabinet. Optimal choice screws will become 4 by 16. Side surfaces, as well as the top and bottom are connected at right angles using furniture corners. You can nail the back wall of the cabinet to the finished frame.

Assembling the base

Making holes

Installing the bottom frame

Stage 2. Sliding system

To ensure the correct movement of sliding doors, the guides are first attached. They are mounted parallel to the top and bottom planes of the cabinet. One of the best options would be to use a specially developed system called “Commander”. Without much effort, you can not only move the doors to the desired position, but also easily make adjustments. As a rule, adjustment is needed if gaps are observed during the assembly process, which not only spoils the appearance, but also complicates operation. In most cases, during the first time after assembly, cabinet furniture shrinks, which can also result in cracks appearing. This is considered normal due to the specific characteristics of the material.

Special rollers are screwed to the doors. Ready design install in the guides and check the progress.

Installing the stopper

Installing the rubber pad

Installation of guides

Adjusting the system

Stage 3. Installation of fittings

At this stage, all shelves, drawers are inserted into place, coat hooks and other small elements are attached. The cabinet is ready. Even a person who does not have experience in creating cabinet furniture with his own hands will not spend a lot of time creating something of excellent quality. The average assembly time is no more than three hours excluding preparatory work. In addition, the cost of a handmade product is much lower than the price finished furniture in the shop.

Assembling cabinet furniture with your own hands is a combination of the optimal design solution, choosing quality materials, as well as acquiring new skills with which in the future you can create entire furniture sets.

1. Main material: laminated chipboard

Surprisingly, wood in its pure form is the preserve of expensive “elite” furniture. Wood is practically no longer found in cabinet furniture.

The main material from which cabinet furniture is made is laminated chipboard(LDSP). Typically these are 16 mm thick slabs. Chipboard sheets with a thickness of 10 mm and 22 mm are also available for sale. 10 mm laminated chipboards are used as filling for blind doors of sliding wardrobes, and 22 mm - for shelves in bookcases, where greater resistance to loads is required, and ordinary 16 mm laminated chipboard can seriously sag under the weight of books.

Also sometimes 22 mm parts are used as design elements furniture products, introducing originality into the design (for example, on top of a regular 16 mm cabinet lid you can put a protruding cover with a thickness of 22 mm more dark color). Such delights are economically feasible only in mass production, since you always have to buy a whole sheet of laminated chipboard for cutting. Typically, all parts of cabinet furniture (except for doors and facades) are made from 16 mm laminated chipboard.

Laminated chipboard is sawn on special machines along guides. Of course, at home you can saw off something with a jigsaw - but in this case the edges of the seam will be “torn”, and the seam itself will probably wiggle from side to side. It is almost impossible to achieve a straight saw with a jigsaw.

2. Edges

The cut of laminated chipboard is the most ugliest and vulnerable place - moisture easily penetrates through it and the material swells and deforms. Therefore, it is recommended to cover all ends of laminated chipboard with special edges. Several types of edges are known:


. ABS edge- an analogue of PVC edges made of another, more environmentally friendly plastic. In addition to environmental friendliness during disposal, the remaining differences are rather invented by marketers. It's not even sold in our city.


. Wooden and veneered facades- will delight lovers of natural products. True, in the modern plastic world such facades are quite expensive. Yes, and evil tongues claim that there are so many varnishes and impregnations in this wood that there is only one name for the wood. At the very least, manufacturing companies strongly recommend regularly maintaining such facades with special chemicals.

. Enamel facades- painted facades. Their main drawback: the coating is very easily scratched, deformed, and is not resistant to chemicals. Previously, they were used only for their rich, vibrant colors. With the advent of acrylic plastics on the market, the demand for painted facades has decreased significantly.

. Aluminum and glass facades- made in high-tech style. They are beautiful and modern, but difficult to manufacture and require non-standard fasteners, often installed simultaneously with the production of the facade.

4. Back walls and bottom of drawers.

Typically, the back walls of furniture, as well as the bottoms of drawers, are made of LDVP. At the same time, its front laminated side looks inside the drawer or cabinet. The color of HDF is selected to match the color of the HDF used. The sheet thickness is usually 3-5 mm.

At one time it was fashionable to place such a wall on brackets using furniture stapler. This is wrong - the staples last for a limited time, and no matter how strong the structure may seem to you immediately after assembly, after a few years it may well break apart under pressure or deformation. It is especially incorrect to place the bottom of drawers on staples, which is constantly subject to pull-out loads. So what about furniture stapler forget - it is only applicable in upholstered furniture.

Sometimes fiberboard is inserted in the groove- but this technology requires milling this groove, and at the same time maintaining all dimensions of the product exactly down to the millimeter.

Sometimes the back walls and bottoms of drawers are made of chipboard. This is practiced to create " stiffening ribs"in tall cabinets, and in those drawers where there will be a very large load (20 kg and above). The rear wall of the cabinet can be equipped with one or more stiffeners made of laminated chipboard, and the rest of the space can be filled with LDVP.

5. Countertops

Tabletop- a horizontal work surface on which people constantly work (cook, eat, write).

Majority office desks And cheap options dining rooms are limited to a tabletop of the same material as the table itself. This can be laminated chipboard 16 mm or better 22 mm, always edged with a 2 mm PVC edge.

Special countertops are used for kitchens. Usually they are a sheet of chipboard 28-38 mm thick, covered with plastic using postforming technology. This plastic is quite durable. If the cut of the tabletop is gray, it’s ordinary chipboard, if it’s blue-green, then moisture resistant. Correct kitchen countertops equipped with a strip of silicone - the so-called " drip tray", which does not allow spilled liquids to flow down and onto the kitchen furniture.

The weak point of such countertops is the edges of the cuts. They are usually edged with melamine to match the color of the tabletop when cutting it. But melamine is afraid of moisture, and often the edges become unusable after just a year of use. Therefore, for the ends of the tabletop it is recommended to use a special aluminum profile, having previously thoroughly coated the cut surface silicone sealant. There is also a profile for joining tabletops at right angles - without sawing them and fitting them to each other - this profile is very convenient to use in corner kitchens.

It is not customary to make holes in the tabletop (they spoil the smooth surface of the table and then dirt gets clogged in them), so such a tabletop is usually screwed on from the inside screws to horizontal struts. In this case, the screws should not be too long so as not to pierce the lid through.

Countertops made from natural or artificial stone . Products from natural stone very heavy and require additional care due to the porosity of the material. Artificial stone is free of these disadvantages. In addition, artificial stone countertops can be given almost any size and profile. The only drawback of such countertops today is their price.

6. Location of parts

We have come to those sections that will form your final understanding of how to make cabinet furniture. So first let's talk about relative position details.

Detail- this is any element of cabinet furniture: bottom, lid, sidewall, back wall, facade, shelf. So, every detail can be nested, maybe overhead.

Let's consider this thesis using the example of two kitchen cabinets. One will stand on the floor (on legs), and the other will hang on the wall.

Base cabinet:

As can be seen from the figure, it is best when the operating voltage (and for a floor-standing cabinet it is directed from the lid down) naturally transmitted through wooden parts to the place of contact of the product with the support - on the legs of the cabinet (see the “correct” diagram).

In the second, “wrong” option, the voltage is transmitted to confirmation(this is a special furniture screw, we’ll talk about them a little later) - and the force will constantly try to break it out of the wood.

Second example: wall cabinet.

Here everything is the other way around: the force is applied to the bottom shelf and the things on it, and the fastening point of the cabinet is higher than the point of application of the force. Naturally (at the junction wood boards) we will not transfer the force upward in any way. Therefore, voltage will necessarily be transmitted through the fittings.

If we make the same design here as in the floor cabinet (see the “wrong” diagram), all four confirmations will experience constant force to tear out made of wood. Therefore, we choose the worst of two evils: it is better to let the confirmees experience the effort for a break(see diagram "correctly").

At first glance, this seems difficult, but trust my experience: after the third designed and assembled product, you will begin to intuitively, without thinking, determine where this or that part should be located.

7. Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware, which are used to connect furniture parts. Most often, such a connection is made at a right angle of 90°. all modern types of furniture fasteners are very well described, with detailed description their advantages and disadvantages. Let's briefly go through those with which we will have the opportunity to work.


. Euroscrew (confirmed)- special furniture screw. The most common fastening of cabinet furniture. Confirmat is especially well suited for beginners - since it does not require precise addition of parts - you can drill a hole for it “on site”, during the process of assembling the product.

Have you noticed that self-tapping screws are almost never used to connect parts? That's right, in the furniture business they are replaced by confirmats. Due to their ideal shape for 16mm laminated chipboards, they have a significantly larger thread area and hold much stronger than self-tapping screws.


To drill holes for confirmations it is required special drill- finding something like this in our provincial town was not easy. In principle, if you don’t have such a drill, it’s not a big deal: you can get by with three drills of different diameters: for the thread, the neck and the confirmation head.

Confirmats come in several sizes. Typically 7x50 is used. When drilling for confirmation, special attention should be paid to the perpendicularity of the drilling - so that the drill does not “run away” and pierce the wall of the part being drilled.

Confirmations are being twisted screwdriver with hexagonal bit or manually with a special hex wrench. Confirmations made with a Phillips screwdriver are not correct confirmations! You will never be able to tighten these screws all the way.


The main aesthetic drawback of confirmations is that the caps, although remaining flush, are still noticeable. To hide them they use plastic plugs, inserted into the caps. The color of the plugs is matched to the color of the chipboard.

. Eccentric couplers- the most correct and modern look furniture fasteners. Does not leave marks on the front side of the product, only on the inside. The main disadvantage is that it requires very precise drilling, including aligning the holes on both sides and limiting the drilling depth (so as not to drill through).

To drill additives for eccentrics, a special drill is usually used. Forstner drill. It is possible to do it manually - but it is very difficult; it is better to have a drilling machine.

If you are assembling furniture, the ends of which will not be on public display, but will be hidden (for example, kitchen cabinet or a wardrobe in a niche) - then there is no point in bothering with eccentrics. Use confirmations.

8. Furniture fittings




The hinges can also be adjusted in height and planting depth. This allows you to more accurately align your cabinet door. Still meeting inset hinges- when, when closing the door, the facade is recessed into the cabinet (rarely used). There is a range of loops for glass doors, in which you can firmly clamp the glass without drilling.

Buy only quality products famous manufacturers(for inexpensive ones, we can recommend Chinese Boyard) - so as not to have problems with them in the future. Among the world's serious manufacturers - Austrian Bloom, but it is expensive and you still have to try to find it.

9. Drawers and their guides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The simplest one is to make the perimeter of the box (sides, front and back walls) from chipboard. This method is described in detail and with illustrations. The only thing I disagree with the author is that instead of nails to secure the bottom, I would use self-tapping screws.

If you want to beautiful facade, then it is screwed with self-tapping screws to one of the sides of the drawer into the lining, as shown in the diagram in section 5 (the role of the countertop in this case will be played by the front of the drawer).

But assembling the box is half the battle. The main thing is to make it open and close. That is, put it on the guides.

Drawer guides There are two types: roller and ball.

. Roller guides - usually white, attached to the bottom of the drawer. A box on such guides rides on two rubberized rollers, rumbles due to its unstable position, and at the point of maximum exit tends to fall out of the guides from any sharp push. Such guides are bad because a heavily loaded box will try to tip over from any position when it is extended more than halfway. The only advantage of such guides is the price: approx. 30 rub for a couple.

. Ball guides - or as they are usually called “full extension guides”. These guides are a telescopic structure that can increase its length exactly twice. Inside they contain several dozen balls (as in bearings), which ensures smooth movement of the box. The guides are rigidly fixed with self-tapping screws to both the cabinet and the drawer, which eliminates the possibility of tipping over and prevents the drawer from “going off the rails” regardless of the load and speed of jerking.

The process of installing a drawer on full extension ball slides is well described. The price of such guides is approx. 100 rub per set. It’s very disappointing to see when in a kitchen with a total cost of more than 40 rubles, the manufacturer squeezes and installs roller guides, saving 70 rubles. You know, you want to take it and strangle it for such a disgusting attitude towards the buyer. So if you order a kitchen, immediately specify what type of drawer guides will be.

. Metaboxes- a solution first proposed by an Austrian company Bloom. The idea is to save the craftsman from the need to attach guides to the drawer, and sell ready-made side walls, with built-in guides, holes for the front and grooves for the back wall. Having bought a metabox, all you have to do is hang a facade on it, put in a back wall and a bottom (by the way, many metaboxes are designed for a bottom made of chipboard and not fiberboard).

The guides in the metaboxes are roller. Accordingly, the metabox is not a full extension product. Cost of Blum metabox: from 300 before 500 rub. Now many companies, including Chinese ones, produce products with the name “metabox”, which has already become a household name. Here is a good article on calculating and assembling a metabox.

. Tandemboxes- a more technological solution from the same company. If the metabox rides on roller guides, then the tandembox rides on full extension ball guides. The number of balls in them is several hundred. Tandemboxes are usually equipped with an automatic closer and shock damper (BluMotion system) - which ensures surprisingly pleasant and soft closing of the box (always full closing) with one push.

For tall drawers tandem boxes can be equipped with one or two additional limiters. Tandem boxes are manufactured white and stainless steel. The latter, of course, are twice as expensive.

If you happen to be at a furniture show, stop by the Blum stand. You can’t even imagine how pleasant and high-quality the usual furniture fittings. But the tandembox costs accordingly: 1000-2000 rub. per set.

10. Doors for sliding wardrobes

The last thing worth talking about in our furniture educational program is wardrobes. In general, the kitchen and wardrobe are the most accessible and interesting areas of activity for a novice furniture maker. Well, not counting, of course, bedside tables and shelves. Furniture for the living room and bedrooms usually requires a serious design approach, the use of non-standard or difficult-to-process materials: natural wood, tempered glass. With kitchens and wardrobes, everything is simple and clear.

The sliding wardrobe comes in two versions: with walls (side and back) and without them. the latter option is simply a part of the room (usually a niche) fenced off with sliding doors, inside which you can do whatever you want: shelves, drawers, hangers, and a bunch of other interesting things. Here are listed and photographs of the most common elements filling sliding wardrobes.

The most interesting and attractive mechanism in a wardrobe is its sliding doors. You can’t skimp here, and you need to buy only high-quality fittings - otherwise you’ll suffer with falling and jamming doors so much that you yourself won’t be happy. In our city, the only decent stuff they sell is sliding systems domestic company Aristo, however, according to reviews they are quite worthy.

A sliding wardrobe usually contains two or three doors. Each door is a canvas enclosed in a special frame made of decorated aluminum profile. In this case, the door does not have to be uniform - it can be created from two or more different panels, connected at any angle using a special profile.

Traditionally, the frame profile for sliding wardrobe doors is designed for a leaf thickness of 10 mm. For the manufacture of blind doors, 10 mm laminated chipboard sheets are usually used. Special sheets can serve as a design alternative. rattan(decorative wicker), bamboo, and even artificial leather(on a base made of chipboard or MDF).

Using special silicone seals, a 4-mm mirror. The main thing is that those who will cut you mirrors for your closet do not forget to apply reverse side a special elastic film that will hold fragments in the event of an impact. Even if a child breaks the mirror surface, this will significantly reduce the likelihood of injury.

In order for the doors to move, guides are attached to the bottom and top. The lower guides of the sliding wardrobe ensure the opening/closing of the door, the upper ones ensure the fixation of the door relative to the depth of the cabinet. The lower rollers are usually made of plastic, equipped with a shock-absorbing spring and a screw for height adjustment. The upper rollers have a rubberized surface.

To obtain Additional information on making cabinet furniture yourself, I strongly recommend reading the following resources:

. http://mebelsoft.net/forum/- Forum of professional furniture makers. Perhaps the largest and most popular resource dedicated to this topic.

. http://www.mastercity.ru/forumdisplay.php?f=19- City of Craftsmen, section "furniture and interior design". Those who try to do everything with their own hands gather here.

. http://mebelsam.com- DIY furniture. There are many articles and examples of a wide variety of technologies, not just cabinet furniture.

. http://www.makuha.ru- Furniture directory. A beginner portal, but it already contains interesting articles.

Well, that’s the end of our little furniture educational program. I hope you are now full of strength and determination to make cabinet furniture with your own hands. Add a little imagination here in choosing colors, edges, fittings and figured cuts- and you will get the opportunity to make the furniture that exactly what you need.

And it's not even about what happens cheaper and often better quality than in the store. And it’s not that you no longer limit yourself to factory models. The fact is that the things you have made, the things in which you have invested your soul, your enthusiasm and skill, are stored the warmth of your hands. I think this is important.

How to assemble a wardrobe or chest of drawers, kitchen or other furniture? This question is asked by every man who is faced with such a task for the first time. A man should be able to do everything and this is true, and if he doesn’t know how to do something, then we will teach him!

How to assemble furniture correctly, because it great amount varieties. Sliding wardrobes, kitchens, chests of drawers are sometimes not even possible to assemble to an experienced master. Designs and complex installations are often perplexing. It will be easier if instructions are included with the furniture.

How to assemble furniture correctly

To assemble furniture with your own hands efficiently, you need to learn some rules. These rules include careful handling of parts, personal safety and the correct sequence assemblies.

After delivery or purchase of furniture, make sure whether it is your furniture and whether it is your color. Check the contents and complete unloading from the vehicle. If the furniture is disassembled (tables, cabinets, cabinets), then you need to determine the number of parts and boxes. After this, you can safely bring the furniture into the house.

At home, you should check the furniture fittings. To assemble furniture correctly, you need to free up space. If the furniture is large and massive, then the assembly location should be in the room in which this furniture will be located.

Before assembling furniture, cover floor coverings with a blanket or other covering to avoid damaging the floor. You should remember about safety precautions for assembling furniture so that you don’t have to correct defects later. And most importantly, prepare the tools and materials with which you will assemble.

Tools for assembling furniture are divided into two types:

Assembly of a simple structure is carried out using:

  • roulette;
  • screwdriver or screwdriver;
  • drills for furniture assembly;
  • hammer;
  • wrenches.

To assemble and install furniture of a more complex design or unusual furniture of complex shape, additional tools are needed:

  • jigsaw;
  • device for identifying electrical wires;
  • hammer drill for furniture assembly:
  • crowns of different diameters;
  • furniture stapler;
  • various types of drills;
  • level.

If you are not sure that you can assemble the furniture or it requires a serious installation process, it is better to turn to specialists.

How to assemble a chest of drawers

A chest of drawers is an indispensable piece of furniture in the interior. A children's room or bedroom cannot be complete without it. A variety of materials and types of furniture allows you to save money family budget. You can also design a chest of drawers with your own hands that will suit all your preferences.

IN ancient times Instead of a chest of drawers, a chest was used, but it was not entirely convenient. This was the reason for the appearance of such furniture as a chest of drawers. Today, a chest of drawers is considered a universal and quite spacious piece of furniture. It is used to store things, shoes, perfumes and cosmetics and other things.

How to develop a project and drawing for assembling a chest of drawers with your own hands

Start developing a chest of drawers by choosing the place where it will stand. Measure the space, taking into account the placement of outlets and baseboards. So as not to interfere with their full functioning. Then start determining the dimensions of the chest of drawers itself. It is recommended to adhere to 800 mm in height and up to 1200 mm in width. These dimensions are considered optimal for assembling a chest of drawers with your own hands. When creating a chest of drawers with your own hands, carefully consider the choice of materials. Consider the following points:

  • natural wood has impressive weight;
  • Chipboard or MDF are much lighter and cheaper.

It is better to assemble unusual furniture using a drawing. In our modern world it's very simple. If you are able to make a drawing yourself, then stock up on a ruler and pencil. And if you want to simplify the task, then use electronic program(Compass 3D or AutoCAD). An electronic drawing for assembling a chest of drawers simplifies the work and determines the size of each element of the chest of drawers.

The next step in assembling a chest of drawers with your own hands will be to determine the size of the parts, taking into account the gaps. Remember that the edge adds thickness. To prepare the remaining parts, contact any wood chipping company for help. If you have “golden hands”, then use a disk and a saw.

Installation of the cabinet assembly for the chest of drawers

For installation we need:

  • nails with a wide head;
  • screwdriver or screwdriver;
  • screws for assembling the chest of drawers.

We start by assembling the body of the chest of drawers, connecting the back wall with nails. If it is not possible or not possible to make a wall from a single material, then replace it with two pieces. They can be connected to each other using polymer joining parts. To secure the parts, you need to use a furniture screw, drilling a hole with a diameter of 4 mm in the edge of one fragment.
After that, take the next part and make a hole in it about 7 mm. Cover the screws on the front side of the chest with plastic covers. Let's start attaching the top cover. We will do this using steel corners, attaching them with self-tapping screws. Assembly of the chest of drawers is complete!

Assembling dresser drawers

The chest of drawers consists of:

  • facade;
  • side walls.

The process of assembling the drawers is more difficult than assembling the chest of drawers. To avoid getting confused in the elements, number them and start assembling the chest of drawers.

Let's start assembling the chest of drawers by installing the bottom. To do this, you need to make cuts 10 mm deep at the bottom of the walls. Use paired self-tapping screws to fasten the front fragments. To facilitate the movement of dresser drawers, install on inside walls roller strips. Apply glue to the strip and install it on the bottom of the dresser drawer. When the glue dries, you can insert the box into the frame.

The main assembly of the chest of drawers is complete, all that remains is to install the handles. They can be easily attached with screws. Be sure to pull out and check each drawer and its movement on the frame.

How to assemble a cabinet

Making a wardrobe with your own hands is a popular activity. It gained its popularity because the cabinet has no swing doors, it is possible to implement hidden installation and the cabinet itself is very compact. When assembling a cabinet, you will have to learn design, carpentry and construction skills.

The design skill lies in the position of the cabinet shelves and the design of the entire cabinet. Having come up with the desired design in your head, transfer it to a piece of paper.

Calculation and cutting of material for assembling a wardrobe

Measure the width and height of the cabinet to calculate the dimensions of the remaining parts (partitions, shelves). After calculating all the dimensions, draw out each detail of the cabinet. It is recommended to make shelves and partitions when assembling a cabinet smaller than the overall size of the cabinet by 2 sheets of chipboard or other material used. Standard chipboard is taken with a thickness of 16 mm.

Considering the 16 mm thickness, we indicate the size of each part. This work is very painstaking. Therefore, check several times to ensure that the cabinet is of the correct design.

Now we move on to trimming (the front ends of the chipboard). On each drawing of the cabinet parts, we mark the edges, which we will cover with special tape. This procedure is very expensive, so you need to determine the edges visible from the front side when assembling the cabinet. Having done such work, you can breathe easy and take all the drawings and diagrams to a specialized place where they will cut them for you.

Making sliding doors when assembling furniture is very simple. Using width, height and internal dimensions The wardrobe can be reported to the warehouse and they will calculate everything on their own. You will only have to choose the material of the doors in your closet.

Material for sliding doors when assembling a cabinet with your own hands:

  • mirrors;
  • Chipboard for cabinet assembly;
  • plastic pseudo-mirrors.

It’s up to you to decide which door material to choose.

How to assemble a built-in wardrobe with your own hands

Assembling a cabinet by completing all the drawings is absolutely not difficult. Need to stock up the right tools:
screwdriver;

  • jigsaw;
  • drill for confirmations;
  • a set of different types of drills;
  • stapler for cabinet assembly;
  • furniture fittings.

We twist the main frame of the sliding wardrobe (side, bottom and top). Connect them together with a hex bit. Next we attach the internal boards. We drill 2 boards at once and screw in the confirmation. After assembling the cabinet box, close back side fiberboard frame using a stapler. You need to fasten every 10-15 cm.

To install the shelves, you need to drill 4 holes for the pins and place the shelf on them.

Installing a sliding door when assembling a cabinet with your own hands

Installing doors is easy. When unpacking the doors, locate the top and bottom rails. A flat narrow guide is the bottom one, a volumetric one with wide grooves is the top one. We screw the top rail to the top of the cabinet, and the bottom rail to the bottom. We insert sliding door and adjustable.

To insert the doors, you need to get into the upper guide rollers, lift the door and install it on the lower guide. To adjust the door when assembling the cabinet with your own hands, you should tighten the fixing and adjusting screws, which are located at the bottom end.

Don't forget about adjusting the stops. They are located in the bottom guide. The stops just need to be moved and the cabinet doors will not hit the body.