How to insulate a damp wall. Ways to insulate a house from the inside

To properly insulate a wall in an apartment, you need not only to know what material is suitable for such purposes, but also to understand all the nuances of installation. Corner apartments with “cold” walls deserve special attention. But besides this, there are several more features that must be taken into account.

Features of wall insulation in an apartment

In brick and panel houses There are many problematic issues with insulation. If they are not given due attention, then with the arrival of cold weather this will manifest itself.

Rules for insulating apartment walls from the inside

Among the features of wall insulation in an apartment, it is worth highlighting the following:

1. Cold wall. This is the surface that directly “exits” to the street. Due to temperature changes, it is susceptible to the formation of dampness, and subsequently mold. The current SNiP requirements indicate the need to insulate it from the outside, although this is not always possible.
2. Dew point. This term is used to define the boundary where the temperature of water vapor becomes equal to the indicator of the appearance of condensation. The problem manifests itself with the arrival of cold weather. If the insulation is carried out from the outside, then the border will shift towards the street side, while on the inside - inwards. In the future, this threatens the appearance of moisture on the walls from the side of the apartment, because water can accumulate directly inside the insulation itself.

To avoid condensation, you can use the following tips:

• for thermal insulation, use a material whose vapor permeability rate is lower than that of the facade material;
• the insulation must have minimal moisture absorption and vapor permeability;
• seal all connecting seams using vapor barrier film and waterproof tape;
• if installation is carried out using glue, then a spatula-comb is used, which allows you to carefully apply the mixture to the surface;
• Before installing the insulation, the walls must be properly prepared - cleaned, treated with an antiseptic and primer;
• the apartment must have high-quality ventilation (natural or forced).

Consequences of condensation - mold and mildew on the walls

Important! Efficiency also depends on the correct calculation of the thickness of the material. It depends on the average winter temperature in a particular region.

Insulation: design options

The modern market offers a wide range of insulating materials. Each option has its own strengths and weak sides. The choice must be made based on technical characteristics material, since the quality of insulation depends on this.

There are a number important points, which should be taken into account when selecting a heat insulator:

• heat conductivity level;
• fire resistance;
• breathability;
• environmental Safety;
• parameters of waterproofing properties;
• life time.

Insulation for walls for an apartment must have high parameters for all these characteristics. And to know what is the best way to insulate the walls in an apartment from the inside, you need to know what options are available for this.

Mineral wool

A budget option that has been used in construction for a long time. It has high thermal insulation, vapor and air permeability, but this material is afraid of moisture. The structure of mineral wool has high porosity, which absorbs any water. This leads to an increase in the mass of the material, due to which it simply will not be able to stay on the wall any longer. In addition, high humidity is an excellent environment for the development of mold and mildew.

Mineral wool

During the installation process, a frame is created from special guides, which will serve as “cells” for laying layers. This process does not require much effort or time. But mineral wool has a tendency to deform, so after 10-15 years it is recommended to remove the topcoat and update the insulation.

Expanded polystyrene

The material is made of foamed polystyrene, which is highly resistant to moisture, while allowing concrete walls"breathe". The price is quite affordable, so many people use it for insulation.

Among the disadvantages it is worth mentioning:

• poor water permeability - accumulation of moisture leads to destruction of walls, so expanded polystyrene is not used to decorate wooden walls;
• easy flammability.

Expanded polystyrene

But this material lasts much longer than the previous option.

Expanded polystyrene has high thermal insulation properties, which makes it possible to use it to insulate not only internal but also external walls. The material is fixed using special glue.

Extruded polystyrene foam

This insulation is a more improved version of the previous version. It has a more elastic and flexible structure, which makes installation much easier. This insulation tolerates any treatment well. It also has good moisture resistance, low weight and affordable price.

Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex"

Among the disadvantages, it is worth highlighting the difficulty of joining the sheets. But modern manufacturers have managed to alleviate this issue - there are slabs on sale where the end sides are designed in the form of grooves. Thus, the adjustment of elements during the installation process is greatly simplified. Fixation to the wall is carried out using glue or by creating a metal frame.

Styrofoam

Another a budget option wall insulation. High thermal insulation properties of the material are ensured by the presence of gas in the composition (more than 95%). It also has high waterproofing, soundproofing and low flammability properties. In addition, its price is quite affordable for everyone.

Polystyrene foam can be used to insulate both external and interior walls. Therefore, it is often used not only in private houses, but also in multi-apartment buildings.

Foam insulation

Keramoizol

This option appeared on the construction market relatively recently. Unlike previous insulation materials, keramoizol is sold in containers, and not in slabs or rolls. This mixture is sold in different volumes.

Keramoizol is easy to apply, as it does not require the creation of frames or other fixing bases. Moreover, such insulation has good thermal insulation, water resistance and vapor resistance. The liquid structure allows you to process the walls as much as possible without worrying about joints and corner connections.

Keramoizol for wall treatment

During the installation process, several layers are required. Experts recommend covering a freezing wall at least 6 times to maximize thermal insulation. The application of each subsequent layer is perpendicular to the previous one. The application process may take longer than installing foam. But if we take into account the efforts to create the frame, then this moment becomes equal.

The only disadvantage of keramoizol is the high price.

Penoizol

This is a type of polyurethane that is applied to walls in the form of foam. The highest efficiency is achieved when insulating brick walls. The mixture hardens quickly, while reliably sealing any joints and holes in the surface. The absence of air in the foam ensures reliable processing seams and joints.

Application liquid insulation

Penoizol has high thermal and waterproofing properties, is not a flammable material and does not emit any toxins during operation. One of the advantages of this insulation is the speed of operation. True, after the foam has completely dried, it will be necessary to further level the surface, since it does not harden evenly, acquiring a relief structure.

Asstratek

This insulation has the form of a suspension, which contains solid components from various polymers. To treat the wall here you will need a spray gun or paint brush. In the first case, there are additional costs, although such a tool saves effort and time. For complete insulation, you will need to apply a layer of 1 cm, which in its properties will correspond to a layer of 50 cm of mineral wool.

Liquid thermal insulation Asstratek

This material is convenient because it does not “eat up” the usable area of ​​the room. In addition, with proper mixing, a homogeneous structure will allow you to immediately begin finishing. Therefore, Asstratek is often used for wallpaper, since it does not require additional leveling. But for the sake of fairness, it should be said that such insulation is expensive, so for large areas it is not used often.

Having become familiar with all the pros and cons of each insulation, it becomes not so difficult to make a choice of what can be used to insulate the walls from the inside in the apartment.

Wall insulation process

Regardless of the type of insulation, the installation process has mandatory stages. The service life of the material and the material itself depend on the quality of their execution. temperature regime in the apartment.

Preparation

One of the important points is preparing the walls for installation of insulation. First of all, the old coating is removed from all surfaces. Wallpaper can be easily removed if you first spray it with water and then use a spatula to remove the paper from the walls. If even the slightest particles remain, this may prevent the insulation from fully performing its functions.

If the wall has unevenness, it will need to be leveled. This requirement can be achieved using putty or drywall. But in the latter case, the material can already become a kind of additional insulation. This approach is used in case of significant wall defects (irregularities more than 1 cm) and it requires additional financial investments, since drywall is attached only to metal carcass.

After the wall has been cleaned and the putty has completely dried, it is treated with a special antiseptic solution. This layer provides protection against mold and mildew in the future. Eat different mixtures, each of which has its own method of application. Manufacturers indicate instructions for use on the packaging of the mixture, so there will be no problems with mixing. Next, the surface is coated with a primer in two layers - each subsequent one is applied after the previous one has dried.

An important point is vapor barrier. Polyethylene is considered the best option High Quality. Fixation can occur using construction stapler, glue or foil tape. All joints are also treated with adhesive tape in order to achieve complete insulation.

Before insulating the wall in corner apartment, you need to process the connection points with the overlap and the corners from the inside. In such areas, a heat and vapor barrier is applied. Then they can be disguised using a box or false column.

Installation

For high-quality insulation you will need to make a “pie”. In this case, it will be several layers of different materials, each of which has its own purpose. Depending on what material was chosen for insulation, installation can be carried out using glue or creating a frame.

The method of attaching the insulation directly depends on the finishing of the walls. Therefore, insulation in the room can occur in one of the following ways:

• Frame. Used when there is no need to plaster the walls. This approach allows you to protect fragile insulation (for example, polystyrene foam) from mechanical damage. To create a base, wooden blocks (pre-treated with an antiseptic) or a metal profile may be suitable. Dowels or self-tapping screws are used for fixing to the surface. The distance between the posts should be equal to the width of the material. If the insulation has a dense structure, then the cell should be exactly 50 cm smaller than the dimensions of the slab or roll. In the case of soft material, the cell size will need to be reduced by 1.5-2 cm. As soon as the insulation is laid in the gaps, all joints are processed polyurethane foam. After it dries, you will need to remove all its excess using ordinary or stationery knife. Next comes finishing.

Laying mineral wool

• Glue. This type fastening requires careful preparation of the walls, which includes leveling. All cracks are treated with putty, and if there are protrusions, they must be chipped off, and such places are sealed with mortar. To apply the glue you will need a notched trowel. The solution is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions, which are indicated on the packaging. The mixture is applied to the wall and to the insulation, after which the material is pressed tightly against the wall. The glue dries for 2-3 days, depending on the manufacturer, after which you will need to additionally secure the insulation using umbrella dowels.

Fixing the insulation with glue

Important! If the work is carried out using glue, then the wall is pre-marked. This will allow for careful installation. You should not immediately cover the entire surface with the mixture, as it will have time to dry before one side of the wall is insulated.

Fixation with glue is acceptable in cases where insulation is carried out using polystyrene foam, wood fiber, penoplex or foil insulation. For other materials, a frame system can be used.

Final works

After the insulation is fixed to the walls, you can proceed to the final stage. At the end of installation, a hydro- and vapor barrier is fixed over the material. The film is attached using special slats or a construction stapler. The edges should overlap adjacent surfaces and be secured with sealant.

After all stages, the walls are ready for final finishing. If you plan to glue wallpaper or use decorative tiles, then in this case you will also need to create a base from plasterboard. Usually, when working with slabs, at the final stage they are plastered and covered with a forming reinforcing mesh, on top of which they are then applied. gypsum mixture. After plastering and cleaning, the wall is ready for decorative treatment - painting, wallpapering or slabs, etc.

Leveling with plasterboard

- a simple event. But it requires the completion of all stages, especially with regard to the preparation of walls. If the base is not treated appropriately, then very soon condensation will appear inside the “pie”, which will begin to destroy the insulation from the inside. Therefore, it is better to spend effort and money on preparation once, but then spend the cold winters in a warm apartment.

Insulation for walls from the inside is available in large quantities in networks retail. It is different in its composition and characteristics and you need to make the right choice.

Today we will tell you how to insulate walls from the inside of a room, you will also get acquainted with the types of insulation materials and you will be able to choose exactly the one that is suitable in your case. Also, the video in this article and photo will provide the necessary information on this issue.

When the wall is insulated inside

Insulation of walls inside is carried out in cases where there is no alternative solution and you have to take risks by insulating the inside.

For example, the city administration prohibits making changes to the façade of a building (cultural property, façade facing a main street, etc.):

1. Behind the wall that is planned to be insulated, there is a construction joint connecting the two buildings;
2. An insulated wall hides an elevator or other unheated room where it is not possible to install insulation.

In addition to these situations, installation of insulation inside a room can only be carried out in a situation where this was originally planned by the design of the future building. This is practiced during the construction frame houses(see How to insulate the walls of a frame house).

The insulation of a wall from the inside with gypsum board will depend on the material of the wall itself. After all, it can have different heat capacity. In the photo you can see this indicator for common wall materials.

• In this case, a similar insulating material, which was used during construction. The lack of insulation is compensated for by another layer. You can also insulate a wooden house by using an additional layer of wood;
• Other reasons that entail this method of wall insulation are not justified. The best option the work is carried out by finishing from the street, even if the finishing material is transferred to the updated finishing layer;
• However, if the decision to carry out such work was made categorically, it is necessary to approach each stage of this type of finishing extremely scrupulously. In particular, you need to be extremely careful when choosing material, carefully consider preparatory stage, and then correctly fasten the purchased insulation using known technologies.

Specifics of the process and basic rules

Insulating walls from the inside with your own hands in this way does not provide heat, but, on the contrary, is susceptible to freezing. This will lead to condensation of warm air from the room with cold air from the street. The condensation process will move closer to the walls inside the room and their finishing, as well as directly on its surface.

Accumulated moisture will lead to constant dampness and destruction of the finish, and then the finished surface itself. In addition, the thermal insulation properties will deteriorate significantly, which means the heat loss of the room will be very high. Brick walls are most susceptible to destruction in such conditions.

• To avoid such problems, you should choose a finishing material characterized by vapor permeability, increased moisture resistance and a fastening method that eliminates the presence of joints through which high humidity and vapors penetrate into the room and spoil the appearance of the walls;
• It is categorically unacceptable to choose varieties of mineral wool, ceramic materials in liquid form, gypsum board sheets, thermal insulation plaster composition and others . GKL sheets and plaster mixtures It can only be used as a finishing layer for surface design.

Attention: All materials that have loose fibrous structure, non-moisture resistant and vapor permeable - are absolutely not suitable for such insulation.

Modern penoplex material is also very doubtful for similar use. With this type of finishing it is difficult to achieve ideal joints with the wall surface without the use of special solutions. In addition, joining sheets of expanded polystyrene to each other is also not easy, and if the technology is broken, the thermal insulation properties will be poor.

Preparation for internal insulation

Based on the above, we can put together a picture of the necessary preparatory manipulations that should be carried out:

• It is extremely important to ensure that the wall being finished is as dry as possible;
• It is necessary to install a vapor barrier and waterproofing layer to block the wall directly from the room;
• The insulation film must be characterized by increased moisture resistance and be vapor-tight;
• The heat insulating layer must be built tightly, without gaps or joints. The resulting cracks are carefully sealed with sealant.

Attention: The ideal solution could be the construction of another wall in the space of the future room. The newly erected wall can be tightly joined with the outer wall, as well as provide an air cushion with a layer of thermal insulation.

But such work will quickly “eat up” the volume of the entire room, reducing the space. There is an option to use thin insulation for the walls inside, but this may not provide sufficient heat in the room.

Methods of finishing from the inside

Methods for insulating walls from the inside are divided not just by materials, but also by the method of installation work. Let's look at the most common options.

Foamed polyurethane

Using such a finish will allow you to achieve good thermal insulation properties and create a reliable barrier to moisture.

Attention: Installation of such material can be a great inconvenience, because initially it is a liquid foam substance that very quickly becomes solid.

• In order for the surface to remain smooth and the thickness of the layer to be reliable, you will have to build formwork into which foam will be poured in small parts. It is important to remember that a wooden or metal frame will become the very bridge of cold. Which will let frost in from the street;
• After applying a layer of insulation to a plane, it is extremely important to provide protective layers from moisture and steam. The insulation is securely fixed to the remaining walls and ceiling slab using lathing, gluing with adhesives or special resin;
• The low density of the finishing does not allow applying the finishing decorative layer directly to the insulation. For the final design, you will have to construct a frame from gypsum plasterboard sheets, the fastenings of which will be on the touching walls and the ceiling slab;
• In this design, condensation will fall at the boundary of the wall and the foam or will come inside the insulation. As a result of the inaccessibility of the external climate and good vapor permeability, moisture does not form.

Construction of an additional wall

The procedure for insulating walls from the inside will depend on the structure you choose. Sometimes an additional wall is selected for work. It will serve as a barrier to cold air.

• With this method, heating components are mounted on the plane of the outer wall. However, it is recommended to turn on such elements only during severe frosts; this will heat the plane of the wall inside the room and move the place of condensation;
• To carry out the final finishing, craftsmen build additional walls from gypsum board sheets or half a brick thick. Insulating material is installed within the opening connecting the false wall and the plane of the street wall;
• This option will significantly reduce heat loss and will save you in case of severe frosts, but it will cost a pretty penny. Electricity consumption will be high because thermal elements in fact they will heat the street.

Penoplex

If you decide to use expanded polystyrene, which is not very suitable for this type of insulation, it is important to pay close attention to the features of its installation.

So:

• Smooth, rigid sheets, quite strong, are offered in sizes 1000x1000 or 1000x500 mm, which inevitably form joints during installation. This can lead to poor-quality sealing, which means you will have to join the sheets as tightly as possible to each other, and fill the voids with sealant;
• The solution is usually used as separate patches. When choosing of this type finishing, this method will not work. With this finishing, the wall is filled with air voids, where moisture accumulates, which will soon find a gap to escape and disrupt the external gloss of the wall plane. This also leads to the growth dangerous fungus and mold;
• Categorically the right way can be applied to the adhesive composition in an even and smooth layer on the surface of the penoplex and securely gluing them to the wall surface. Professionals usually use a special roller with needles immediately before applying glue. It makes the plane of the sheet looser, providing better adhesion;
• This fastening process also requires a well-prepared wall plane, leveled and primed. For leveling and finishing, professional moisture-resistant compounds are used, which are used in finishing rooms with a humid climate;
• The use of staples to secure trim is not recommended. When using them, the attachment points will form leaky transitions, spoiling the entire plane of the finishing layer. When using reinforcement or plastering (see Penoplex plaster: which one to choose), the best solution is to use special “T”-shaped fasteners. By inserting them between sheets of polystyrene foam, they are secured to the floorboard and ceiling plane.

Scheme of work on insulating an internal wall

Having chosen in advance the method of insulating the wall, the material with which this work will be carried out, having calculated the upcoming costs and purchased everything necessary, we proceed to the most important stage - installation.

How to properly insulate walls from the inside, there are a number of rules that have a huge impact on the time factor and the situation when repair work. When buying insulation, the main rule to follow is no savings! Instructions for performing the work are outlined below.

Attention: You should also not neglect important points of the installation diagram. Experiments with reducing the cost of finishing may result in unpleasant consequences and additional costs.

Insulation from the inside of walls is carried out exclusively on warm days, when high humidity and wet precipitation are not expected. Before starting work, it is extremely important to dry the surface of the wall being finished.

For these purposes, you can use special guns, heating elements and other devices. With their help, it will be possible to greatly reduce the humidity in the room being finished.

	The initial stage of work is preparing the wall surface. It needs to be removed old finishing, decorative components, plaster mixtures (see How to remove old plaster from walls without problems). It would be more correct to clean the wall straight to the base material, to concrete or brickwork. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dirt from the wall. Wall damage caused by fungus or mold is thoroughly cleaned with abrasives and brushes;
	Then we proceed to apply antiseptic compounds that will protect the wall from fungus and mold in the future. We also carry out priming. After applying each layer, the wall must dry completely, and only then is it possible to lay the next layer. The primer mixture is used for these works deep penetration;When choosing the insulation material, heating components or foam sheets, the walls are pre-plastered with special mixtures with the addition of water repellents, used for repairs in buildings with high humidity. The plaster must be allowed to dry completely and then primed;
	If you choose matte insulation or foam, you will need to apply sheathing to the wall. After all, the insulation must be positioned correctly. The step width is selected depending on the width of the mat material.
	After the preparation stage, you can begin attaching the insulation. All materials have their own installation technology, as has already been described. After installation, the insulation layer is also allowed to dry completely and only then proceed to finishing decorative materials(wallpaper, tiles, paint, etc.).
	After installing the insulation, the cladding material is applied

• The best way would still be to fasten gypsum board sheets into a pre-prepared frame, attached to the planes of adjacent walls, the ceiling space and the floorboard. This will leave a gap between the wall and insulation material 2 - 5 cm thick.
• If polystyrene foam is chosen as the material, then it is possible to use reinforcement of the material and then apply plaster. But the durability of such a coating will depend entirely on the quality of the work performed. Do not forget to carefully coat the gaps separating the sheets with sealant, and attach the insulation to an even and dense layer of glue.

Insulation technology metal walls the inside will be slightly different in terms of insulation mounting options. In this case, it is better to choose foaming materials. Then the price of the work will be lower. After all, in this case there will be no need to attach the mats to the surface and this will reduce the cost of the work.

It is better to use thermal insulation inside the house only as an additional measure. If the external walls are not protected from the cold, when insulating the inside of the house, condensation will constantly form in the room, which will contribute to the development of fungus and mold in the walls.

Dew point

Dew point is the temperature at which steam turns into water. Condensation occurs at the hot-cold boundary. In our case, it will appear in the place where the unheated wall comes into contact with warm air coming from the room. Moreover, the greater the difference between the wall temperature and the temperature inside the room, the more condensation there will be.

Dew point in the wall of the house

If the house is insulated from the outside, when additional thermal insulation is installed inside the house there will not be a sharp temperature change, so the amount of condensation inside the room will be minimal. But it will still accumulate.

To ensure that the walls do not get wet after insulation, laying internal thermal insulation should not only choose the right material, but also take measures for the ideal seam sealing. To avoid condensation, it is better to insulate only separate sections of walls on the leeward side, end parts and corners.

Selection of materials

For internal insulation, you should not choose materials that have high degree moisture absorption: mineral wool, cork, warm plaster or drywall. The last two materials can only be used as a finishing layer.

Porous penoplex does not absorb moisture, but has low vapor permeability, so it can only be used if the quality of the seams is ideal. If the thermal insulation layer is leaky, between the wall and finishing material Condensation will form.

The air permeability of polystyrene foam is higher; in addition, achieving an ideal connection to the wall using this material is very problematic, so it is better not to use it for interior wall decoration or choose high-strength foam plastic.

Penoplex

Preparing the walls

Before gluing heat-insulating materials, the walls must be completely cleaned of old wallpaper, paint and crumbling plaster. For this you can use wire brush, construction hair dryer or a grinder with a special attachment. If mold or mildew is present, these areas are additionally treated with antiseptics after cleansing.

To avoid the appearance of cold bridges and condensation, all existing cracks should be completely sealed with foam or mortar. The protruding parts of the wall, which do not allow the heat-insulating material to be laid evenly, become knocked down. Too large dents are smoothed out with a solution.

Wall cleaning

All holes and cracks between the wall and the window are carefully sealed using polyurethane foam. After it hardens, the remains are cut off with a knife.

Sealing cracks with foam

Padding

Applying a layer of primer will reduce the degree of vapor permeability of the walls, strengthen the surface and increase the degree of adhesion to the adhesive composition. In addition, such treatment will prevent the development of fungus.

For priming, deep penetration compounds should be chosen. For wood processing, it is better to choose alkyd mixtures. Acrylic primer universal and can be used for all types of surfaces. Epoxy compounds are used only for treating concrete and brick walls.

The primer is applied twice. The second layer is applied only after the first has dried. Smooth walls can be primed with a roller. If there are a large number of dents and chips, it is better to use a regular brush, the bristles of which can penetrate even the smallest crevices.

Priming walls with a roller

Laying a vapor barrier film

Before installing the insulation, a foil material that reflects heat or a thick sheet is fixed to the wall. polyethylene film. They are attached to wooden blocks or profile using staples, tape or mounting adhesive. The foil material is laid shiny side outward to the room.

All joints are taped with construction tape. At the junctions with building structures and pipes they are additionally treated with liquid sealant and secured with a stapler.

Finishing with foil insulation

The film or foil material is laid overlapping, and the joints of the fabric should fall on the frame posts. A small overlap is made on the adjacent walls, windows, ceiling and floor.

Installation of insulation

Unlike foam plastic, penoplex has not a rough, but smooth surface, therefore, to increase its adhesion to the wall, it is treated before sticking needle roller or sandpaper.

Needle roller

Small areas (the space under the radiators, slopes and window sills) are isolated first. Penoplex can be cut well with a hacksaw or a sharp knife. To avoid damage to the material, cutting it can be done with hot wire.

Important! Work should be carried out in the summer after thoroughly drying the room. The walls on which the thermal insulation material will be laid must be as dry as possible.

Wall decoration with penoplex

To attach sheets to the wall, it is better to use a special adhesive composition designed for working with penoplex. It must be diluted in small quantities: the dried mixture will crumble and the thermal insulation will be damaged. It retains adhesion for 10 minutes - during this time the foam sheet must be fixed to the wall.

The glue is distributed evenly over the entire sheet using a notched trowel. For uneven walls, the adhesive composition can be applied in a thicker layer only in the center and perimeter of the sheet.

Coating sheets

The decal starts from the bottom of the wall. The sheets are butted together. Unlike polystyrene foam, penoplex has protrusions around the perimeter, so such a connection will be more airtight. As a support for bottom sheet better use starting metal profile profile, which is fixed to the wall using dowels and washers.

The sheet is glued from bottom to top. It is pressed tightly against the surface, and then the excess glue is “expelled” from under the sheet. To offset (penoplex is glued in a checkerboard pattern), the first sheet of the second row is cut in half. The correct installation of penoplex is controlled by the building level.

Important! The gaps between the penoplex are filled with scraps of material and glued. It is not recommended to use polyurethane foam for these purposes. During the expansion process, it can lift the foam sheet, which will lead to a violation of the tightness and the formation of cracks.

Penoplex fastening

Additional fastening of sheets is done using plastic "fungi", in which dowels are inserted. To do this, holes are drilled in the wall through a sheet of insulation: four in the corners of the sheet and one or two in its center. Dowels must fit into brick wall to a depth of at least 90 mm, in concrete - 50 mm. They are hammered in using a rubber hammer.

Plastic dowels

After insulation, you can attach plasterboard or reinforced film to the wall and finish it with decorative plaster.

Utility bills are increasing every year, especially for heating and electricity, but the rooms are still cold, even when the radiators are hot. The best and effective solution The problem of heat preservation is the insulation of the walls of apartments from the outside or from the inside of the room.

Insulation from the outside can be difficult to implement in practice if:

• the façade of the building has expensive finishing;
• the apartment is adjacent to unheated technical rooms;
• the building you live in is an architectural monument and it is not possible to obtain a work permit;
• the house is multi-storey, insulation of the wall of one apartment spoils the design of the facade of the entire building;
• insulation must be carried out on the entire riser, but this is not always realistic due to the financial capabilities of individual residents;
• attracting construction organizations requires significant cash injections.

To preserve heat, it is necessary to take care of the tightness of the doorway and. A simple way to create a comfortable microclimate in an apartment: the desired coolness in the summer heat, and warmth in the cold winter - is to insulate the walls of the apartment rooms from the inside. Let's find out how to choose the right insulation in large assortment offered products.

The work of thermal insulation of apartments from the inside is complex and time-consuming. Experts do not have a common opinion and recommendations on wall insulation, although there are many developments and proposals, but they are united in one thing - for good result It is necessary to purchase high-quality material and properly prepare the wall surface.

When choosing insulation, you must take into account the following properties:

• low thermal conductivity;
• minimal hygroscopicity (moisture absorption);
• good sound insulation;
• mechanical strength and durability;
• does not support combustion and prevents the spread of fire;
• light weight and easy to install.

When you come to the market or a building materials store, it’s difficult to choose necessary insulation in a huge variety of products. Let's look at a few of the most used thermal insulation materials. Manufacturers: and others.

Inorganic insulation

The materials for the production of this type of heat insulator are minerals: sand, glass, asbestos, various rocks.

• Preparing the wall surface. The walls need to be leveled. If the building is new and the wall is brick, it is necessary; if it is concrete, it is enough to level it with putty. If we decide to insulate the walls of the apartment in which we live, we need to clean them of wallpaper, paint, remove nails and dowels from the surface, and cover chips and recesses with alabaster, if there are protruding irregularities, remove them. If there is fungus or mold, we clean it with emery cloth, wash and dry the walls, putty the surface, and if there are significant unevennesses, plaster it.
• Preparing the work site. When preparing the wall, remove the plinth and flooring, baguette so that nothing interferes with installation foam boards. We prime the dry wall with a brush or spray; you can use an antifungal primer. Experts recommend laying PPS between the slabs and the wall. waterproofing material, then moisture will not get on the insulation.
• Laying foam. After completely leveling and drying the wall surface, we begin to lay the foam, starting from the corner, from the floor. We press the insulation tightly to the surface and drill a hole exactly in the center with a 5 cm recess into the wall, drive in fasteners - an umbrella, and then a dowel so that the cap does not protrude on the surface of the sheet. Carefully secure the foam board in 5-6 places. And so we carefully press each sheet against the wall and against each other, ensuring tight and monolithic mount. If gaps have formed, they can be removed with polyurethane foam.
  Nowadays, glue is increasingly used to attach foam plastic, which is applied to the wall with a comb.
• We seal the seams between the foam sheets tightly. We apply glue to all seams, and put reinforced tape on top so that it becomes one with the surface of the foam and does not protrude in the form of irregularities and folds. For getting desired effect we stretch it and press it against the foam with a spatula and press it into the adhesive mixture. We also coat the caps of the fastening elements with glue. Gaps cannot be left; they become “cold bridges” and negate all the work.
• Laying it down vapor barrier material. After the surface at the seams becomes dry, it is necessary to cover the insulation special material. To do this, we apply a mesh (film) over the foam, which protects it from moisture coming from inside the room. Top along the seams covered reinforced mesh, apply glue along its width and apply a vapor barrier material, use a spatula to embed it in the glue and so on, each row with a slight overlap. After the wall is covered with a mesh, we smooth out the unevenness using sandpaper or a special grinding tool.
• Bottom line. Before us flat wall, which can be decorated at your discretion.

Insulation of apartment walls with heated floor mats

This method of insulation is used extremely rarely and can easily be called experimental. If the walls freeze very much, this is great option maintain and increase heat in the room, although energy consumption increases.
The work is carried out in several stages:

• We attach the mat ready for use to the wall

  Modern construction is developing at lightning speed. It is difficult to follow new creative innovations in the technology of insulating rooms from the inside. What was progressive yesterday seems labor-intensive, complex and of lower quality today. This applies to insulating apartments using the method warm plaster, relatively recently this method was very popular. It is worth mentioning this option, maybe someone, due to certain circumstances, will be interested in it. The whole point is to apply a 100 mm layer so that it sticks, we do the work in three stages:

  1. Liquid plaster is “sprayed” onto the wall in a layer 10 mm thick, filling all the cracks, recesses, and surface cracks.
  2. After the first layer has dried, apply the main 60 mm and also dry thoroughly.
  3. The finishing layer is a 5 mm thick grout.

  The process is labor-intensive; it takes a lot of effort and time to dry each layer; professional skills are required to complete the job.

  We provide effective ventilation of the room insulated from the inside

  Proper ventilation is essential for the health of both the home and its occupants. Insulating an apartment often leads to a violation of certain ventilation conditions in the apartment. That is, it is important to ensure temperature, humidity, and air flow speed. If the balance is disturbed, then on the walls, and due to lack of oxygen, residents will suffer from headaches and weakness.

  Natural ventilation has a number of disadvantages: heat loss in winter time, in summer it is impossible to carry out normal air conditioning, noise, dust. For creating optimal microclimate forced ventilation using duct fans is required. Their launch can be blocked when the lights are turned on. Everything needs to be opened ventilation grates for better air exchange.

  Ventilating the rooms daily won't hurt either.

  Insulation of apartments is carried out in combination with insulation of the floor (especially the first floor), ceiling or roof (important if the room is located on top floor), doors, windows.

One of the ways to reduce heat loss through the building envelope of a house or apartment is to insulate the walls from the inside - option is not the most popular, but sometimes the only possible one. It has not much less disadvantages than advantages, but most problems can be solved by using suitable materials and technologies.

Before starting work and purchasing materials, it is recommended take into account all the nuances of such insulation and be sure to carry out thermotechnical calculation . This will allow you to get at least effective result than when insulating a building from the outside.

When considering the issue of internal thermal insulation of enclosing structures, it is worth understanding why this option is chosen much less often than external finishing. Among the disadvantages that insulating walls from the inside has are the following:

• Installation of insulation indoors not only reduces heat loss, but also separates the wall from internal heat , leading to its freezing and decreased performance;
• Between building envelopes and thermal insulation moisture accumulates, which leads to the shift of the “dew point”, the appearance of dampness and mold;
• In a room insulated in this way good ventilation is required.

In addition, when choosing insulation of the inside of the walls, the effective area premises. At the same time, among the advantages of such a solution we can only name more favorable cost and relatively simple installation. The device of such thermal insulation is available not only experienced craftsmen, but also for non-professionals.

When there's no choice

• Location outside the insulated structure of the deformation seam between buildings, elevator shafts or other premises and objects that do not allow the installation of insulating materials;
• The impossibility of disturbing the appearance of the facade - for example, facing the main street or relating to a building which is cultural value (such houses are often photographed, and changing their appearance will affect the architectural and urban appearance of the city);
• Construction of a building, the project already provides for internal insulation– each apartment is insulated multi-storey building or a room of a private building.

There are no other reasons for choosing internal insulation. Whenever possible, you should use them to insulate rooms from the outside.

However, if there are reasons for installing a heat-insulating layer with inside, you should pay close attention to the work, taking into account all the nuances - from the choice of materials to the order in which they are placed.

Brief overview of materials

When considering the materials that are used for internal insulation of housing, it is worth paying attention to several of the most popular options used for both residential (private and multi-apartment) and public buildings:

1. Foamed polyethylene(penophenol), installed so that there are two gaps in the structure - between the interior decoration, insulation sheets and the wall. However, violation of the technology leads to a shift in the dew point and moisture entering the material. To improve performance parameters, penophenol is used together with other insulation materials.
2. Expanded polystyrene(foam plastic) - practically the best thermal insulation of walls from the inside, with minimal weight and low thermal conductivity. The moisture resistance of the material allows you to do without vapor barrier. Among the disadvantages is the selection harmful substances when burning.
3. Polyurethane foam, which also has good thermal insulation properties and simple installation. Provides maximum sealing, but the disadvantages include, as for foam plastic, the release of harmful substances during combustion.
4. Sputtering- an option in which there are no seams left. Suitable not only for internal, but also for external insulation. Considered suitable only as a finishing touch.
5. Paint based on ceramic components. It dries quickly (after 12 hours wallpaper is glued over the material), but does not protect against dampness - and therefore against mold and mildew. Used as an additional layer.

Expensive (and this is practically its only drawback), but effective as insulation material, it is considered cork. Provides good protection of premises from heat loss, does not require wallpapering or painting, does not reduce the area of ​​the rooms. Due to its low heat resistance, mineral wool is considered not the most suitable option for internal insulation. Therefore, it is rarely used and only in extreme cases. Due to the low resistance of the material to moisture, rooms insulated from the inside are at risk of dampness and, as a result, the appearance of mold and mildew.

Technology for insulating walls from the inside

The first stage of work on protecting the building envelope is choosing a method to insulate the walls from the inside of the building. The main nuances are choice suitable material and correct compliance with all stages of the technological process. Insulation is installed in the warm season, when air humidity is minimal.

Laying work is carried out in several stages. The most popular methods of insulating walls from the inside are: gluing the insulation directly to the wall or mounting it on a special frame. The layer intended to be thermal insulation is laid last. Finishing can be done on top of it, thanks to which the room receives a more attractive interior.

Preparing the walls

Before insulating a wall from the inside, you should carry out preparatory work. The list of preparation stages usually does not include leveling the enclosing structures - it is considered sufficient to carry out antibacterial treatment to protect against mold. Most irregularities and defects will be hidden during the installation of thermal insulation.

An important stage of preparation is base primer. When using polystyrene foam, the walls are also plastered using solutions that contain water repellents.

Plastering is also carried out in the presence of large surface differences (from 10 mm).

After drying, the plaster is also primed (except in cases where the structures are concrete), and the joints are sealed with a moisture-resistant solution.

Frame

The most reliable technology for insulating walls from the inside involves constructing a frame. For this, depending on the climate, they can be used wooden beams or aluminum profiles, fixed to the inside of the enclosing structures in the vertical direction. The thickness of the frame is selected depending on the selected insulation, and the horizontal distance between its elements is selected according to the size of the sheets of material.

Frames are not made when insulating building envelopes using polystyrene.

Almost all ways to insulate walls involve installing one layer heat-insulating material. When installing a second one, it is also recommended to make your own frame for it. If heating radiators interfere with the installation of the selected material, non-penofol is laid behind them.

Finish

Complete internal wall insulation vapor barrier device(not required for polystyrene foam), protecting the insulation from excess moisture. Vapor barriers are often special films coated with foil, directed indoors. To improve insulation efficiency sheets are secured with an overlap, and the joints are sealed with metallized tape.

The last stage of installing thermal insulation on the frame is covering the surface with plasterboard. Gypsum boards wallpapered or painted. The type of finish rarely affects the thermal performance of building envelopes, except when spray insulation is used.

Illustrated instructions for internal insulation step by step

Professionals usually do not require special instructions for installing insulation - they have already tested all technologies in practice and can work, guided only by their experience. However, if you are insulating walls from the inside with your own hands, it is advisable to have an illustration in front of you, allowing you to simplify the work and not miss a single important step.

One such illustrated instruction provides making a frame and laying mineral wool indoors. Although the technique will be practically no different when using other materials. For example, foamed polyethylene, for which a frame is required, since performance characteristics penofol depend on the gaps between the insulation and the wall.

How to deal with negative consequences in walls insulated from the inside

When deciding whether it is possible to insulate walls from the inside, you should be aware of the availability of measures that allow reduce the risk of negative consequences in the form of excess moisture and mold. To do this, the contractor is required to follow certain recommendations:

1. Reduce the risk of steam getting into the insulation, which leads to the appearance of condensation on the walls. For this, vapor-tight membranes are used or, if necessary, to save on repairs, ordinary polyethylene film.
2. Choose thermal insulation with lower vapor permeability compared to enclosing structures - polystyrene foam, sprayed polyurethane foam.
3. Pay special attention to the junction points of the insulation to enclosing structures, including floors, walls and ceilings. Joints must be made in such a way that do not leave holes for moisture to get inside. The best option is the application of thermal insulation materials to adjacent surfaces and their subsequent gluing.
4. Provide additional ventilation, the task of which is to compensate for the vapor barrier of walls indoors and preserve natural vapor exchange.

Efficiency ventilation system should be increased by periodically airing the rooms.

Cladding of enclosing structures is carried out using moisture-resistant plasterboard - you can distinguish it from the usual by the greenish color of the sheets of material. External protection thermal insulation from steam for summer, when moisture may not escape from the room to the street, but, on the contrary, penetrate from the outside, is not performed. In summer, the air temperature is high enough to dry the walls, so external vapor barrier is not used for insulation.

Conclusion

To summarize, it is worth noting that internal thermal insulation wall represents an extreme case- an option chosen if it is impossible to insulate the walls from the outside. If it is possible to place insulation on the outer part of the building envelope, choose this option. Having opted for internal insulation, the homeowner should be guided when choosing the appropriate material thermal engineering calculations, financial capabilities and area of ​​insulated rooms.

In most cases (except for the choice of polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam), all methods for properly insulating a wall require a vapor barrier device that minimizes Negative consequences internal insulation.