What fertilizers to apply in the fall for fruit trees. Autumn feeding of fruit trees and shrubs: timing for young and adult plants

For the growth and nutrition of our garden wards after wintering, we need the element nitrogen, which, if it was in the soil, was washed out of it by rains into deeper layers during the fall and winter and carried away with the melting snow. Therefore, in the spring there is a need to feed the trees in the garden, and with what and how - let’s break down the process into “shelves”.

Fertilizer application methods

Nitrogen supplements can be delivered to their intended destination in a variety of ways.

• Spraying - foliar spring feeding
• Root feeding; it is carried out by introducing fertilizer elements into the soil in a liquid or solid state.

Regarding the age of the tree, we must know how and where to properly introduce food so that it reaches its goal. If the seedling is small. then you need to fertilize the entire tree trunk circle.

In an adult tree, the suction roots are located approximately in the area of ​​​​the projection of the crown onto the ground and beyond this border, and this is where fertilizing should be applied.

The liquid form of application is more preferable. as it largely guarantees that the food is quickly digested. it is poured onto pre-watered soil. to avoid burns from the fertilizer solution.

Dry minerals loosen into the ground. then watering is carried out. Just
There is no point in scattering granules over the surface - the nitrogen from them will evaporate, not
having reached the goal.

Nitrogen overdose is no longer advisable. than its disadvantage. Because of this, fruit trees can grow to the detriment of fruiting and are poorly prepared for winter.

Trees are not fertilized every spring; it depends on the nature of the soil (clay soils are fed less often), the autumn application of fertilizers, how the tree felt in the previous season, the amount of last year's harvest, and how much nutrition it lost during this time.

When, how and what to feed

The first feeding of fruit trees is carried out in early to mid-April, when the buds are just
They begin to swell, and the snow has melted. There is no point in throwing granules in the snow,
the roots will not receive nitrogen. However, when using this method, there is a risk that in case of return frosts, plants fed with nitrogen will tolerate them less well.

Many gardeners advise carrying out this operation during the period of leaf bloom or the beginning of flowering.

What fertilizers are best to use? It can be organic - compost,
manure. humus or mineral additives: urea, ammonium nitrate, sulfate
ammonium

A furrow is made along the perimeter of the crown, half the depth of a shovel, and the above compounds are added there. For mineral additives, the norms of additives are indicated on the packages.

Nowadays, the soil under fruit trees is often not dug up. A
planted lawn grasses or they just mow down. How to fertilize in such
case?

On my site, along the edge of the tree trunk circle, there are scraps of old
water pipes approximately 25 cm long (the more, the better). They rise slightly above the ground level. Nutrient solutions are poured there.

The trunk circle of the old Antonovka is mulched with black spunbond, pipes are dug under it along the projection line of the ends of the branches. Shade-loving hosts also feel great there.

If you make a solution, then for 10 liters you will need 1 spoon of urea, or 3 tablespoons.
complex fertilizer. or azofoski, nitrophoska. To have more potassium present, it is good to add half a glass of ash, and if we take urea, then a whole glass.

The presence of potassium will make the fruits more sugary. Instead of ash, you can put a spoon
potassium sulfate.

Organic substances are placed at the rate of 20-30 kg of humus per adult tree.
By the way, if you add compost along the perimeter of the crown once every 2-3 years, other “treats”
not required.

It is very useful to treat with slurry: dilute and infuse last year's cow or horse manure for two weeks in a barrel with a closed lid (ratio 1:5), stirring occasionally. Before use, dilute 1:2. The norm for an adult tree is 5 buckets.

It is good to feed with liquid fertilizers, for example, manure “compote”.
To prepare it, I take a bucket of rotted manure, two buckets of weeded grass,
a half-liter jar of old jam, a glass of wood ash. I put everything in a 100-liter barrel, fill it with water, and close the lid. The composition ferments for about two weeks, so you need to take care of its preparation in advance. Then I take a liter of compote, dilute it in a bucket of water and fertilize it. An adult tree needs from 5 to 10 buckets. In addition to nitrogen, this composition will provide potassium and microelements.

Foliar treatment has two purposes:

• Feed as quickly as possible
• Protect from pests and diseases (details in the next article).

Nutrition is absorbed much faster through leaves, so we feed fruit ones, especially when in early spring root system cannot provide nutrition for the opening of buds and leaves, and when flowering occurs, the formation of ovaries.

These can be special fertilizer mixtures containing microelements,
complex, for example, “Kemira-lux”, boric acid, potassium permanganate. Very suitable
preparations "Uniflor-rost" and "Uniflor-bud", where microelements are contained in
easily digestible form.

It must be remembered that for such treatment it is necessary to take lower concentrations of solutions (5-10 times) than for root treatment. All work should be carried out in dry weather after sunset.

Spraying is not an alternative to root nutrition, but it can greatly help fruit trees in difficult times and support their immunity.

Spring feeding for shrubs is carried out similarly to the methods described above for fruit trees, only the dosage changes.

Please watch this very useful video on carrying out fertilization activities in the spring:

Trees in the garden consume great amount nutrients from the soil. This is especially true for adults and those actively bearing fruit. It is necessary to feed the garden in the spring if you want to reap a generous harvest.

Natural reserves in the soil and filling mixtures in planting holes are exhausted after 2-3 years, so it is necessary to apply fertilizers twice a year.

Fertilizers for trees

• Nitrogen: ammonium nitrate and urea (popularly urea).
• Organics: chicken, rabbit, quail droppings, mullein, horse manure, humus, vermicompost.
• Sodium humate.

Feeding fruit trees in the garden is carried out in autumn and spring. Moreover, the main one is autumn.

Feeding trees in the spring before buds open

Trees need nitrogen in early spring. Urea and ammonium nitrate are suitable, and if the soils are poor, complex fertilizers can be used. Dissolve a tablespoon of fertilizer in a bucket of water and water.

For young tree One bucket will be enough. And for adult plants will need 3-4 buckets. We make a hole around the tree at a distance of 50-100 cm from the trunk, 15 cm deep. Pour several buckets of water into it, and then a solution of nitrogen fertilizer.

Before flowering trees are fertilized with organic infusion. Fill a bucket of mullein with 3 buckets of water and leave for a week. A liter of infusion is diluted in a bucket of water and poured into the hole around the tree.

Consumption also depends on the age of the tree and the condition of the soil. As a rule, this is 2-3 buckets per tree trunk circle.

If there is no organic matter, then you can use complex mineral fertilizer to feed the garden in the spring. Doses according to instructions.

How to feed the garden in spring with urea

Watering with nitrogen fertilizers and organic infusions is very labor-intensive, especially if the garden is large. A good alternative is spraying the garden with urea (carbamide). Several treatments are needed.

The first - as soon as the snow melts, on a sunny, windless day at an air temperature of at least +5. Dosage: 700 grams of urea + 50 grams copper sulfate on a bucket of water.

Urea performs 3 functions:

1. Gives a good start to the tree in the form of nitrogen fertilization.
2. Protects against aphids, flower beetles and other pests.
3. Delays the growing season for 1-2 weeks.

The advantage of delaying bud break is that they will bloom later, which means they will not suffer from late spring frosts. Spray the trees with urea generously so that the branches are thoroughly wet. The tree trunk circle also needs to be treated with this solution to destroy overwintered pests.

Second time treat the trees with urea a week after flowering, but without copper sulfate and in a light concentration (a tablespoon per bucket of water).

Third time- when the fruit begins to set. This helps to increase the size of the fruit and minimizes. Dosage: a tablespoon of carbamide (urea) per 10 liters.

Feeding trees with humate

During the period of fruit filling, spraying the crown with sodium humate has a good effect. To prepare the solution, you need to take 20 g of fertilizer (a teaspoon), pour it into a liter hot water and mix thoroughly until completely dissolved.

You will get a dark brown liquid paste. It is diluted in 30 liters of water and the entire crown is sprayed. It is more convenient to divide the pulp into three equal parts and dilute it in a bucket of water.

In August, in order to effectively lay fruit buds, you need to treat the trees with a superphosphate solution (100 grams per bucket of water). You need to spray in the evening after sunset.

How to care for apple trees, pears, plums, cherries, how to plant fruit seedlings, how and with what to properly fertilize an orchard, how to care for seedlings, how to care for orchard when and what fertilizers to apply to apple trees, how to water apple trees.

You will find the answer to all these questions in the article below. This article describes in detail how to care for an orchard.

Last spring you planted fruit seedlings. Of course, in the first summer there was nothing to expect from them normal growth, it’s good that they took root. And this spring, buds have swelled on thin branches and strong young leaves have hatched. So, the seedlings survived the first winter successfully. But for a long time, the new residents of your garden will need increased attention to themselves.
In the first years they use only a small area - both above and below ground. Their roots extend laterally a little further than the branches. Gardeners occupy the rest of the space between the rows with vegetable gardens or strawberries.
Another thing is the tree trunk circles themselves: here both soil care and fertilizers are intended directly for the young tree. In other words, in young garden There should be two systems of fertilizers and soil care: one for inter-row crops, the other for tree trunk circles.
The area of ​​the trunk circle is determined as follows: in the first year it is approximately one and a half times larger than the circle that can be outlined at the ends of the branches, and then every year it expands in all directions by half a meter. As a rule, in middle lane radius of the circle (distance from the stem to the edge).
Most often, the soil around the tree trunks is kept loose and free from weeds. Twice a year - in spring and autumn - it is carefully dug up (if possible with a pitchfork) to a depth of 10-12 cm at the trunk and 20 cm along the edge of the circle. In the summer, after rains and watering, they are shallowly loosened again. And only at the end of summer, and even then if it is not too dry, do they stop loosening and weeding.
The new trees in your garden need water, and by the way, much more than mature trees. In the first two years after planting, they need to be watered 4-5 times per season, regardless of the rains, unless they are very heavy or prolonged. You need to pour it under every apple tree. In subsequent years, water less often, but twice as much.
And remember: never pour right under the stem; It is best to make a shallow furrow around it for this purpose. But the most important thing, and at the same time the most difficult thing, is to establish its proper nutrition from the first days of a young tree’s life. Let's say that when planting you brought into the planting hole everything that is recommended: 3-4 buckets of humus (or 2-3 buckets of stale manure, or 5-7 buckets of peat); or potassium chloride (standards are given for apple trees on Non-Black Earth soils).
Such doses seem to be sufficient for a tree for several years. But it's not that simple.
There is indeed enough phosphorus and potassium, but all of it is within the pit. As soon as the roots grow beyond its boundaries, they will find themselves in unfertilized and, moreover, unloosened, uncultivated soil, and this will immediately affect the growth of the tree. Your task is to improve the soil not only of today, but also of the future tree trunk circle. And not on the surface, but to the depth of two spade bayonets - then it will be cultivated. And this must be done now, in the first years after planting.
Outside the planting pit, further than the ends of the branches, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be scattered in increased doses in a wide ring: for each square meter. It’s also good to add manure or compost here in normal doses and dig everything up. On next year or, in extreme cases, after a year, all this must be repeated, and then the ring must be dug twice as deep as usual, that is, two bayonets of a shovel. The lower layers of soil, which are now on top, also need to be fertilized in the future.
It is better to do deep digging in the spring rather than in the fall.
You can do it differently. Instead of a ring, also outside the crown, approximately 120 cm from the trunk, 4 trenches are dug, 40 cm deep. They are placed on four sides, but so that they do not close together: there should be 50-75 cm between their ends. The soil removed from the trenches is fertilized in the same way as for planting holes (per unit volume). For example, the length of the trench on one side of the tree is 120 cm, width - 50, depth - 40, therefore, the volume is 0.24 cubic meters. And the volume of all four trenches is approximately a cubic meter, that is, twice as much as the planting hole, and, therefore, twice as much fertilizer will also be needed (we have already mentioned doses for the planting hole).
Fertilizers are mixed with the excavated soil, then the trenches are backfilled (preferably at the same time as watering) and compacted. If the soil is sandy, it is good to make a layer of clay with manure at the bottom of the trench so that the fertilizers are less washed out.
In four years, new trenches will be needed. They should be placed 50-70 cm further and - in relation to the old trenches - diagonally, that is, opposite the gaps. In subsequent years, another row of trenches can be made. In other words, you will place nutrient sources in the path of the growing roots. And even if individual “advanced” roots fall under the shovel, do not be afraid: the tree as a whole will gain immeasurably more from improving the soil.
In addition, the usual doses of phosphorus and potassium must be added to the surface layer of soil of the entire tree trunk circle at least once every 4 years.
It is such deep cultivation of the soil that will gradually lead to “the whole garden becoming a continuous planting pit,” as I. V. Michurin advised.
Well, if you can’t do such a thing - after all, it’s really a lot of work - what can you do then? You will have to apply fertilizers superficially not once every 3-4 years, but every year - in the hope that phosphorus and potassium, albeit slowly, not immediately, will reach the roots. And the doses should be approximately the same for poor, non-chernozem soils: per 1 sq. meter of trunk circle - 60 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride. And every 2-3 years: (this is the usual dose for surface application).
For cherries and plums, all the figures given here must be reduced by about a quarter: the amount of fertilizer, the depth of digging or trenches, and the timing of cultivation, since the volume of roots in the soil and the lifespan of these trees is less than that of an apple and pear tree.
Nitrogen must be given to trees constantly, as needed, but not in the very first year after planting, because it has been observed that it has a bad effect on root survival. And starting from the second year, it is applied constantly - either in early spring, or like this: two-thirds in the spring, one-third in the summer (with fertilizing), at the rate of 6-12 g per 1 square meter. meter. During the season, you need to add 20-40 g of ammonium nitrate or 12-25 g of urea, or 30-60 g of ammonium sulfate per square meter of tree trunk circle. Moreover, trees will receive part of their nitrogen from the application (although not annually) of manure, peat or compost. The young tree itself will tell you whether everything is in order with these nutrients: weak growth, pale small leaves “tell” that nitrogen needs to be added. If there are no such signs, don’t.
And finally, let us say again: everything stated above applies only to tree trunk circles. The row spaces in a young garden receive care and fertilizer, if only because other crops grow nearby. However, over time, the tree trunk circles will expand so much that everything will be pushed out of the row spacing. By this time, the soil will have already been enriched so that fertilizers will need to be applied only in maintenance doses, and this is much simpler. Having entered the time of full fruiting, the garden will thank you in full for those efforts that now may seem burdensome.”
V. SHCHERBAKOVA, agronomist.

Do not refuse the courtesy if you liked the advice,
don't forget about rec-mu. Sincerely, Yuri Moskvin.
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Fertilizing the garden in spring is very important element fruit tree care. Even if your garden grows on fertile soils, it needs additional feeding to a greater or lesser extent.
For a garden to grow and bear fruit, energy is needed. It enters the tissue of trees and shrubs in the form of various compounds of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and many trace elements. During the peto (growing season) a lot of these so-called biogenic elements are carried out with leaves and fruits and it is necessary to replenish their supply. Therefore, various fertilizers should be applied annually.
It is better to do this in early spring, before the buds open and the plants begin to function.

Feeding fruit trees in spring

Feeding is very important factor in the life of young fruit trees, urine, slurry, bird and/or cow droppings are well suited for this. When we add slurry and urine, we dilute it with 5-6 parts, and feces and bird droppings with 10-12 parts of water, using one bucket per 1 m2. Mineral fertilizers can be applied in two types: liquid and dry, this is at your discretion, but do not forget if you apply fertilizers in dry form, do not forget to water the trees after the procedures. In early spring, when you dig up your fruit trees, you need to apply 2/3 of the dose of your fertilizers. In summer you can fertilize, but only those trees that clearly need it (they look weak compared to others). We will carry out the second feeding during the period of increased shoot growth, and a month after that we will do the third.
And preference should be given to spring feeding of the garden because in this case the applied nutrients are not bound by the soil and are not consumed by weeds, but enter directly into the body of fruit trees through the roots and berry bushes.
When the soil dries, all work in the garden should be aimed at creating favorable conditions flowering.

In the spring, the tree trunks of fruit trees are first fertilized with mineral fertilizers, mainly nitrogen, provided that organic, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are added in the fall. If the garden was not fertilized in the fall, in April it is necessary to use complex mineral fertilizers containing three elements necessary for good plant development - nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
For young gardens, the following fertilizer composition is recommended: 20 g of urea, 30 g of granulated superphosphate, 15 g of potassium chloride per square meter. m. If the soil is poor, then the doses of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be doubled. Nitrogen fertilizers stimulate the growth of green mass, phosphorus is responsible for the development and strengthening of the root system, and potassium will ensure the formation of flowers and fruits.

When does garden feeding begin in spring?

They begin fertilizing in March - early April: fertilizers, along with melting snow, are absorbed into the soil and easily reach the root system during the awakening of the orchard.
Fertilizers are applied to tree-trunk circles with a diameter of 1.5 m, evenly scattering 1-2 handfuls (30-40 g) of nitroammofoska granules or other complex fertilizer under bushes and young trees, and 3-5 handfuls over the entire crown projection for mature trees. Then, using a garden fork or shovel, they are embedded in the soil to a depth of 10-12 cm over the entire tree trunk area. The shovel and fork are positioned with the edge towards the trunk, along the roots extending from the trunk.
For the first five years, fertilizers are applied to the tree trunk. Then the application zone is expanded, scattering them around the tree along the projection of the crown. Fertilizers are incorporated into the soil so as not to damage the roots: shallower near the trunk, deeper at the periphery.
Both dry and liquid mineral fertilizers, if they are not applied in the snow, require well-moistened soil - the root system of plants is capable of absorbing only nutrients dissolved in water. It is also advisable to spray the plants generously to avoid burns. Feeding should be done in the evening or in rainy, cloudy weather.

In the spring-summer period it is necessary to provide plants high level nutrition with all the necessary elements, and especially nitrogen, to increase flowering activity, fruit set, rapid shoot growth, crop formation and fruit buds. It must be remembered that the flowering phase and the initial growth of shoots largely depend on the nutrient reserves available in the plant.
One type of feeding can be called ordinary organic mulch (peat, manure, crushed bark, rotted leaves, straw), which, when decomposed, increases the fertile layer of soil under the plant. The mulch thickness should be at least 10-12 cm around the entire perimeter of the crown. This fertilizing will be especially effective if mineral fertilizers are added to it. Mulching will help retain moisture in the soil, inhibit weed growth and maintain temperature regime soils of the trunk circle.
In addition to applying fertilizers to the soil, foliar feeding is often used in the garden - spraying fruit crops with a solution mineral fertilizers and growth regulators. For example, a 0.2 percent urea solution (2 g per 1 liter of water) is used to spray trees. During the flowering of fruit trees and berry bushes, you can dissolve a little honey in water and spray the trees to attract bees that pollinate the flowers; the same can be done when growing cucumbers in open ground or vegetables in a greenhouse.
Spring fertilizing of the garden with nitrogen priority is one of the most important works gardener in April and during the flowering of trees in May. Then it smoothly transitions into summer feeding of fruit trees, where the main elements during the period of crop formation will be phosphorus and potassium.

Annual feeding of fruit trees throughout the growing season will ensure high yields. WITH early spring the awakening of the garden is noticeable: the buds come to life a little, their tops are covered with whitish fibers. The initial growth of shoots and subsequent flowering occurs due to the use of nutrients - substances accumulated by fruit trees during last year's growing season. To ensure further growth of shoots and roots and reduce the fall of ovaries, trees should be fed with easily soluble nitrogen fertilizers, which improve the growth of all parts of the tree. Fertilizer dressings are made from slurry in a ratio of (1:2), mullein (1:5) and bird droppings (1:10). Liquid solutions of organic and nitrogen fertilizers are applied into grooves 8-10 cm deep around the crown. Then the furrows are covered with earth, the soil is dug up, harrowed with a rake, and mulched. When trees are 10-15 years old, they consume 6 to 10 buckets of fertilizer solution.
In young trees, the roots spread within the trunk circle. As the crown grows, the area of ​​the trunk circle increases by approximately one and a half times the diameter of the crown. This means that the grooves for liquid fertilizer will extend beyond the crown projection, where the main suction roots are concentrated.
Digging furrows saturated with fertilizers brings nutrients closer to the roots, harrowing gives them air, and mulch slows down the evaporation of moisture. To avoid damage to the roots when digging after applying fertilizer (fertilizer solution), you should not use a shovel. It is better to dig with a pitchfork without turning the formation, without breaking the coma. When digging with a pitchfork, the roots are also damaged (torn), but less so. It’s even better to loosen the soil with hoes instead of digging. If the soil in the furrows is dry before applying the nutrient solution, it is recommended to first moisten it with water and then apply the nutrient solution.
Spring feeding of pome trees is carried out to a depth of 8-10 cm, stone fruit trees - 5-7 cm. This is explained by the depth of the nutrient roots.

Trees continuously consume nutrients from the soil, so over time the soil beneath them becomes depleted. Because of this, the productivity of the garden decreases, and young plants develop worse. Even if the soil was fertilized in the fall, this does not mean that it does not need to be fed in the spring. After all, with melted snow, many useful elements leave, including nitrogen. It is in the spring, during the resumption of active plant growth, that the soil especially needs additional fertilizing.

Spring feeding of fruit trees - the most important condition their rich fruiting. Therefore, with the onset of warm weather, gardeners should take maximum care of fertilizing their garden, otherwise the prospect good harvest it will be very foggy for them.

In spring, fruit trees need to be fed with mineral and organic means.

Organic fertilizers

The advantage of organic fertilizers is their availability and environmental friendliness. With regular use of organic fertilizers, the soil becomes looser and absorbs water better.

Compost is rotted plant waste. Its addition promotes better absorption of minerals. It is not advisable to use poorly rotted compost; it may contain weed seeds.

Manure fresh mullein or horse manure is used. It should be used with caution due to its high ammonia content, which can harm the plant's rhizomes. To prepare liquid composition, 1 kg of manure will require 10 liters of liquid. When adding manure during digging, you will need 10 kg per 1 sq.m.

Bird droppings contains large quantities of nitrogen, which stimulates rapid and balanced plant growth. It must be used carefully, strictly observing the proportions to prevent burns to the rhizome.

In the spring, manure is used in the form of liquid fertilizer for apple trees in the following proportion: 100 g of manure/15 liters of liquid. Moreover, the solution is infused for 5-10 days. Dry droppings are used for digging.

Wood ash It is valuable for its high content of various chemical elements and is an excellent replacement for potash fertilizers. Used as soil protection against insects, rot and fungal diseases.

Bone flour It has a high content of nitrogen and calcium and is used to deoxidize the soil. Currently, bone meal can be purchased in specialized stores.

Mineral fertilizers

There is a widespread belief among gardeners that such fertilizers can be harmful to both human health and the plant. But when rational use mineral fertilizers and strict adherence to dosages, this risk is reduced to zero, and the benefits are enormous. The use of mineral fertilizers is most desirable for soils poor in microelements and depleted.

Nitrogen fertilizers(ammonium sulfate, urea, ammonium nitrate). They promote rapid growth and have a positive effect on the quality and volume of the harvest. Sandy soils need such fertilizing more.

Phosphorus fertilizers(superphosphate, phosphate rock). They help strengthen and grow the root system. They are introduced into the soil and buried closer to the roots. Such fertilizers are not washed out of the soil and remain in it for a long time.

Potash fertilizers(potassium sulfate). Increases cold resistance and drought tolerance of plants, helps fruit crops produce sugar. Potassium has a positive effect on the formation and growth of lateral shoots. In spring, it is especially necessary for young trees. But it is not recommended to use it in its pure form. It is better when it is part of mixtures, for example, potassium salt or potassium magnesium. Wood ash contains a lot of potassium. In peat or sandy soils potassium accumulates worse than in chernozems.

Microfertilizers contain the most essential microelements for plants: boron, zinc, iron, manganese, sulfur, copper, manganese).

It is best to fertilize fruit trees in the third year of cultivation. By this point, the crown has grown sufficiently, shading the tree trunk, and green manure does not cope with the task. Fruit-bearing trees are fertilized several times a season. This increases productivity well and replenishes the supply of nutrients in the soil.

First feeding of fruit trees

Experts advise feeding fruit trees for the first time at the very beginning of spring. You shouldn't wait for all the snow to melt, but the ground should thaw a little.

To feed during this period, use nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, urea).

Scatter them around each trunk on the snow, which, when melting, will deliver nitrogen and other important chemical elements to the root system of fruit trees and shrubs. Moreover, fertilizers must be applied at a distance of approximately 50-60 cm from the trunk with mandatory loosening of the soil.

When carrying out such fertilizing, it is important not to overdo it, as excess nitrogen will harm the crop. Having received an extra portion of this element, the tree will begin to develop its crown and root system so actively that tying and good development the fruit will leave very little strength. How to calculate the amount of feeding? Very simple - for one young tree use approximately 40 g, for an adult - about 100 g.

If you are a fan of organic fertilizers, wait until the ground thaws completely. Prepare a nutrient solution by adding 300 g of urea, 1.5 liters of litter or 4 liters of manure to a bucket of water. As a guide: use 3-4 liters of fertilizer per tree.

Second feeding of fruit trees

During flowering and leaf formation, fruit trees especially need potassium and phosphorus. Potassium is necessary for the formation of new shoots, increasing sugar levels in fruits, as well as for the resistance of crops to diseases and adverse conditions. external factors. Phosphorus helps strengthen the root system of trees.

Experienced gardeners say that it is better not to purchase mineral fertilizers containing both substances at once, but rather to add them to the soil separately. First, phosphorus, called “superphosphate,” - 60 g per adult tree. A little later, potassium (potassium salt, potassium magnesia, potassium sulfate, ash) - 20 g per tree.

A special mixture is popular among Ural gardeners, which is prepared in a large barrel. The proposed volume of fertilizer is designed for 3 trees:
. 400 g potassium sulfate
. 0.5 kg superphosphate
. 2.5 liters of bird droppings (can be replaced with 250 g of urea or 2 bottles of the drug “Effekton”)
. 100 liters of water

All ingredients must be diluted in water and allowed to brew for a week. Then fertilize the trees with the infused mixture in the root zone (50-60 cm from the trunk). One fruiting apple tree requires approximately 5 buckets of fertilizer.

Third and fourth feedings

It is very important to feed fruit trees in the spring after flowering for the full development of fruits. Organic is best during this period. Of the organic fertilizers, compost is especially popular among gardeners. They water the root zone of flowering plants. garden plants, having previously diluted with water.

During the development of fruits, it is advisable to once again feed garden crops with organic matter (mullein, compost, vermicompost). If this is not possible, then purchase a special mineral mixture with a slight predominance of nitrogen. Fertilizer is either embedded in the ground or mixed with mulch.

Foliar feeding of fruit trees

In spring, you can fertilize your garden not only by enriching the soil, but also by foliar methods. A weak solution is prepared from the feeding mixture and the green crown is sprayed with it.

Leaves absorb substances well, the tree receives faster necessary elements. This method is considered an emergency aid for plants. It is often used to stimulate shoot growth or if the root system or trunk is damaged and cannot fully utilize nutrition from the soil.

For foliar feeding You can use both organic and mineral mixtures. Spraying trees with microfertilizers has a good effect. For example, boron promotes more abundant flowering, zinc serves as a disease prevention, manganese increases the sugar content in fruits and increases yield.

To ensure that there is enough calcium in the fruits, in early spring the fruit trees need to be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture (4%), at the same time this will serve as protection against diseases and insect attacks.

At foliar fertilizer use very weak concentrations of solutions so as not to cause burns to leaves and wood.

To spray the crowns of pear or apple trees, you can use a solution of manganese sulfate or zinc sulfate at the rate of 0.2 g per liter of water. If two microelements are used at once, their dosage is halved.

Stone fruits (cherry, plum, apricot, cherry plum) will grow and bear fruit better if in the spring they are treated with urea diluted at the rate of 50 g per 10 liters of water. Spraying is repeated a couple of times at intervals of a week.

The result will be better if you use this method alternating with classic root feeding. It is the soil that is able to retain the substances necessary for fruit crops longer.

You should not fertilize young one-year-old seedlings. It is better to start fertilizing them from the second year after planting.

Young fruit trees are fed in the spring with both organic and mineral preparations.

Organic fertilizers (urea, manure) are diluted with water in the following proportion: 300 g of urea per 10 liters of water or 4 liters of liquid manure. One young tree should receive about 5 liters of liquid fertilizer. For a tree that has been growing for less than 5 years, it is enough to add about 20 kg of humus to the root zone.

Any liquid fertilizer is applied to moist soil, otherwise it can burn the roots of the plant.

In the first few years, the effect of applying fertilizers to trees is subtle. It becomes more pronounced as fruiting approaches.

For full growth and fruiting, adult fruit-bearing apple trees must be fertilized at least three times in the spring.

Features of feeding an apple tree

In spring, a fruit-bearing apple tree needs organic and mineral feeding.

An apple tree between 5 and 9 years old needs about 30 kg of humus; an apple tree over 9 years old needs at least 50 kg of fertilizer.

Slurry is diluted in a ratio of 1:5. A tree that has not reached 8 years old needs 30 liters of such feeding; a tree older than 8 years needs about 50 liters.

The application of mineral fertilizers has a positive effect on the apple tree: ammonium nitrate, potassium sulfate, superphosphate, magnesium sulfate. Their rate is calculated according to the instructions in accordance with the age of the tree.

Read more about feeding apple trees in THIS article.

Features of feeding pears

Spring feeding of pears is similar to apple feeding, but has some differences.

Humus is necessary for pears large quantities. It is mixed with the soil in the spring during digging. A three-year-old tree needs about 20 kg of humus, and every year its amount is increased by 10 kg. After 11 years, the trees are fed once every 2 years, adding 100 kg of fertilizer.

In the spring, the fruiting pear is sprayed with a weak urea solution. The first time at the end of the flowering period, the second time is repeated after 10-15 days.

Pear responds well to spring feeding mineral solutions: superphosphate, ammonium nitrate, potassium chloride.

Features of apricot feeding

Apricots are fed several times throughout the spring. First, nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Then after flowering with organic matter. Most often, urea, saltpeter, slurry, and chicken droppings are used for this.

Features of feeding plums and cherry plums

Humus for plums and cherry plums is added 10 kg each if the tree is under 6 years old and 20 kg each if the tree is older than 6 years old.

Plum prefers alkaline soil, so fluff lime or wood ash is often added to fertilizers for it.

Features of fertilizing cherries

For trees up to 4-5 years old, humus is added every spring. Scatter it around the trunk, with a radius of about 0.5 m, in a layer of about 4 cm. For trees older than 5 years, one fertilizing with humus is enough for 3 years.

Urea and ammonium nitrate should be fed to trees in early spring and late May.

There are some features in feeding garden plants in the spring that every gardener must know:
. Water acts as a carrier of chemicals from fertilizer to the roots of a tree or bush, so after applying dry fertilizer, thorough watering is necessary.
. Liquid fertilizer should not be applied to dry soil to avoid burns on the roots.
. Horticultural crops no need to fertilize during the first year after planting.
. It is better to fertilize in the evening.
. When feeding, it is important to take into account that the root system of an adult tree extends beyond the boundaries of its crown by about 50 cm.

Important! An excess of nutrients is just as dangerous as a lack of them. Therefore, observe moderation in everything, and your fruit trees will thank you for your care with a generous harvest.

When feeding trees, two things must be taken into account: important aspects: soil growing conditions and their age. In the first 3-4 years, there is no need to fertilize if you add sufficient quantity substrate. It is undesirable to be too zealous with feeding, since oversaturation nutrients entails a decrease in fertility.

Based on the type of soil, it is determined which fertilizers for fruit trees and in what quantities will be most effective. For example, chernozem contains a sufficient amount of nitrogen, so treatment with nitrogen fertilizers is not recommended. But with sandy and clay soils the situation is the opposite.

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