Sewage for a dacha is the simplest. Do-it-yourself sewerage at the dacha: location diagram of sewerage elements, how to do it and where to start

As a rule, simply run water through Vacation home or not enough for the dacha. Water will definitely need to be disposed of somewhere after use. Carrying it out in buckets is yesterday, it’s hard and pointless. Therefore, it will be necessary to build at least a basic sewer system. This can be done by running a pipe into their home and then draining the water into a small hole. But this option is not suitable for everyone, since it is unaesthetic, and the unpleasant smell from this pit or puddle will scare away anyone. But don’t despair: you can make a decent sewer system with water drainage on your own, and it’s not as difficult as it seems.

Materials for production:

The barrel is old (plastic or metal);
- Sewer pipes (preferably PVC 110 mm, length from 6 m)
- Tee;
- Retraction;
- Crushed stone of medium fraction (0.5 cubic meters);
- Shovel;
- Free time (several hours).

Sewer manufacturing process

First of all, you need to decide on the location where the drainage well will be located. It is desirable that it be located at a distance of at least 5 m from the house, no closer than 20-25 m from a well or well, and below them in terms of groundwater flow. A hole is dug with a diameter that exceeds the diameter of the barrel by at least 0.5 m. The diameter of a standard barrel is 0.6 m, height - 0.9 m, volume - 0.2 cubic meters, depth - from 1.5 m.

Next, you will need to make holes in the walls of the barrel. If the barrel is metal, this is done using a grinder; if it is plastic, a wood saw with fine teeth is used. Not far from the bottom of the barrel, a hole is made in the wall for the incoming sewer pipe. Having poured at least 20 cm of crushed stone into the bottom of the pit, place the barrel upside down. The hole for the pipe should be directed towards the house.

All that remains is to dig a trench for the sewer pipe and bring it to the desired location. When laying the pipe, the slope towards the barrel must be at least 3 mm per 1 m. The pipe is brought into the house under the foundation or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate it; it will be warmed by the waters flowing through it. A tee is placed not far from the barrel so that a small piece of pipe extends above the surface of the ground. This is necessary so that the air circulates inside the barrel and leaves the house when the sewer is filled, that is, so that it does not go out of the barrel into the house.

The pipe is inserted into the barrel through a special hole. The gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit is completely filled with crushed stone to the height of the barrel. A material that is not subject to rotting, such as a piece of old slate, is placed at the bottom of the barrel. After this, the hole and trench are filled with soil and thoroughly compacted. To finally install sewerage into the house, a hole is made in the floor or wall. A special plastic mushroom is put on a piece of pipe that is brought to the surface of the earth near the buried barrel.

Some nuances

The design is intended exclusively for draining water, and not for fecal waste, since it is not possible to clean it. Sewerage similar type - perfect option for bath or kitchen drains. Drainage wells and septic tanks are constructed similarly.

The microclimate of bacteria processing wastewater largely depends on the depth of the pit. The ideal depth is calculated using the following formula: the height of the barrel and crushed stone cushion is added to the freezing depth of the soil. For Leningrad region this value is: 1.2 m + 0.9 m + 0.2 m, that is, only 2.3 m. However, digging a hole of such depth is difficult, and not necessary. The barrel, like the pipe, is heated by water effluent.

In the case of clayey soil at the site where the sewage system is installed, water will leave the barrel more slowly, so the design can be improved. An additional or drainage pipe is laid, capable of removing water at the border of the site in drainage ditch. It can also end in a dead end and lead nowhere. The main task of such a pipe is to drain excess water and increase the area of ​​water absorption into the soil.

After laying it on a crushed stone cushion in a trench, the pipe is covered with crushed stone, and then with soil. The trench is somewhat deeper compared to the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. To improve water flow, holes are made in the lower part of the sewer pipe. It turns out to be similar drainage pipe, but if the pipe is discharged into a drainage ditch, this will not be required.

In a word, this sewer system is the best option, suitable for water drainage in any country house.

Before you begin installing a sewer system in your dacha, you need to decide what exactly the drainage and filtration scheme will be. There are several technical points that should be present in every system:

1. The distance from the receiving well to the water wells must be in accordance with SNiP.
2. The diameter of the pipeline through which sewage will be drained must correspond to the number of plumbing fixtures and the approximate efficiency.
3. The depth of the external trench cannot be higher than the soil freezing layer.
4. It is necessary to have a sealed well or septic tank for drainage.

• Filtration septic tank with a compartment for settling the thick fraction. This is an advanced technology, the main operating principle of which is to separate sewage that enters the collector and divide it into fractions. As a result of passing through several filtration chambers, the liquid is purified to a state that is safe from the point of view of sanitary standards.
• Local treatment plant. In fact, these are mini-purification plants, based on the use of water purification.
• Using the container as a cesspool.

Country drainage can be separate and common

The first case is when wastewater from different plumbing fixtures enters different containers for sedimentation and filtration. In addition, separate delivery of water from street storm water collectors and the internal network is considered a separate form.

The general sewage collection and drainage system consists of laying a single pipeline both for indoor appliances and for collecting water outside.

Year-round accommodation and summer

If no one lives at the dacha in winter, then it is enough to assemble a summer sewage system. In this case, there is no need to dig a deep trench and lay a larger diameter pipeline.

The outlet from the house also does not need to be installed at the very bottom of the foundation. The exit is made directly from the top point of the plumbing fixture. Simple scheme collection of summer sewerage in the photo:

As for the collector into which the water will be drained, it must still be sealed and securely installed. There is no need to install a septic tank; a regular drainage pit will do just fine. At the end of the summer season, it will simply have to be pumped out and preserved for the winter.

At year-round accommodation in a private house you will have to complicate the task a little. To use water and toilets in cold weather, it is necessary to ensure good external sewerage. In addition, there are still some difficulties during installation. This includes the depth to which the external sections of the water supply system are buried, its insulation, and many other factors.

Norms for the distance of treatment facilities on the site

According to SNiP, treatment facilities and pits must be located at a significant aquifer well and other engineering facilities.

• From a residential building - at least 5 m to a septic tank, VOC, cesspool to avoid unpleasant odors entering the room. And also prevent in advance the possible disastrous consequences of the influence of a humid environment on the foundation of the house.
• It is 30-50 m to a water well. Of course, it is very difficult to follow this rule, since the size of the plots is very limited. It is still necessary to remove the septic tank from the water supply system as much as possible, to the extent technically possible.
• To the borders of the neighboring plot - at least 2 m.
• From the collector to plants and trees - the location is 2-4 m if the tree roots are large.

Materials and tools

• To dig a trench, you will need a small excavator. If there is no possibility of heavy equipment coming in, you will have to take up shovels.
• The pipes need to be cut with something, some people use a grinder with adjustable speed, or you can use a hacksaw with fine teeth.
• Jackhammer, perforator - make holes in the well and foundation of the house.
• Sand or fine ASG for fixing the pipeline in the trench.
• Insulation, thermal insulation in places where laying sewerage through an external network to a depth below the soil freezing layer is impossible.

The main segment of the drainage system is the pipe, here are its main options:

1. Red PVC is available in various sizes.
2. Black polyethylene ones also come in diameters from 50 to 159 mm.
3. Ribbed - pragma. The length is 4 and 6 m, the diameter is from 100 mm to 500 mm.
4. Gray polypropylene (plastic).

Do-it-yourself system installation in a private house

After the cesspool is placed on the site, you can begin to dig a trench to the required depth. In the central part of Russia it is 2-2.5 meters, in the northern regions it is a meter more, and in the southern regions it is 1-1.5 meters. They begin to dig a trench from the wastewater intake point to the top, towards the house.

Now a fine sand and gravel mixture, a “cushion,” is poured onto the bottom of the pit along its entire length. It’s better to immediately “shoot” the slope at least a little and level the sand.

The next step will be laying the pipeline itself. First, the end is inserted into the well so that the socket faces towards the house. It is advisable to immediately secure the pipe in the hole with mortar or foam. Then they are connected in series with the blank end into a socket. To simplify the process, the rubber bands are lubricated with motor oil or special lubricant.

Each pipe is measured for compliance the required slope. It can be done building level, but it’s better to take a level.

According to SNiP, sewerage is laid along a slope corresponding to the diameter of the pipe. For a diameter of 40-50 mm, the roll is 3 cm per meter, 85-100 mm - 2 cm per 1 m, and for 150 mm it will be 0.8 cm per 1 m.

After assembling the outer line, the line is aligned along its entire length so that the entire straight section is visible through the hole.

Now the thread is sprinkled with sand and the edges are carefully tucked. Then the so-called protective layer the same sand.

Depending on the length of the outer section of the system, a fan riser is pulled to the surface every 8-10 meters. To do this, a connecting tee is inserted with the socket up, and a pipe of the same diameter is inserted into it. The fan riser needs to be mounted at the level of the soil backfill so that it sticks out slightly from the ground.

Once the route is laid, it’s time to install the system in the house. Often they dig a hole right under the foundation of the dacha and make a hole in the floor of the room where there will be a bathroom or kitchen. This is the most practical way pipe plant

There is no need to insert any sleeves between the ceiling, foundation or floor. After installation, the hole must be sealed well and tightly to avoid the joints opening during operation.

Important: the protective layer of sand must be at least 30 centimeters along the entire length of the trench.

If you dig a ditch required depth is not possible, the drain must be insulated. Insulation of external sewerage is carried out using the following materials:

1. Mineral wool.
2. Fiberglass fabric.
3. Expanded polystyrene shell.
4. Large sawdust and roofing felt.

The method of thermal insulation for all materials is almost the same. There is no need to completely cover the line; you just need to put the insulation on top, and you can add a protective layer. However, this does not apply to the polystyrene foam shell, since it consists of two half-cylinders, which are placed entirely on the pipe and only then joined together in trenches.

How to make proper sewerage when the groundwater level is high

If, when digging a trench, water has already appeared in the upper parts, you will still have to dig to the required depth.

If the sewerage is assembled correctly, further work groundwater will not affect. To prevent water from interfering when laying pipes, the trench needs to be dug a little wider and a recess of 20–30 centimeters must be dug along its very bottom along the edge along the entire length. Liquid will accumulate in this groove, and the ditch will remain dry.

Since the cesspool, VOC, septic tank and drainage system are sealed, it should not affect the cleaning process. However, if a VOC or septic tank is installed at the dacha, then a discharge pipe or dry well is required, through which water can penetrate back into. To avoid this, they install it on the discharge pipe.

Another solution to this problem is to place the discharge pipe from the septic tank on top into the nearest ravine, since the water comes out almost clean, and this will not harm the environment.

Connecting a pipeline is a labor-intensive process; you will need:

• fittings, tees and couplings;
• grinder to cut off some sections;
• building level;
• hammer drill and screwdriver;
• special brackets - to secure pipes.

To independently install a drainage system to a sink, bathtub or shower stall, you will need a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm; for a toilet the size will be 100 mm. If there is a bathroom on both the first and second floors, then a hundred square meters are extended upstairs, regardless of what appliances will be there.

Internal layout

Details about the main stages:

1. First you need to decide where and what devices will be installed. Depending on their number and purpose, choose the diameter.
2. Internal highway markings. The direction of the thread is marked along the wall or floor from lowest point to the highest. Measurements of pieces for assembly are taken.
3. Before starting to assemble, brackets are installed into which the pipes will then be inserted.
4. Directly assembling the pipeline by connecting them to each other with a single end into a socket. Before inserting them, the rubber bands are generously lubricated with engine oil. During assembly, it is advisable to use a 45-degree bend rather than a 90-degree bend, since the angle of rotation of the former is much softer. Straight and oblique tees are used to connect devices. It should be remembered that the sewer pipe is not static: it sometimes narrows, sometimes it expands. Therefore, a compensator must be installed in the vertical section. Also every 5 meters on problem areas and when turning, it is necessary to install cleaning inspections. These are special fittings with a screw-on lid through which blockages can be cleared.
5. Required condition reliable operation The drain is to check it after installation. You can check the joints by flushing the entire system. Having assembled all the elbows and tees, insert a hose into the latter and supply water under slight pressure. If everything is done correctly, the joints will remain dry, and all the water will go into outer part lines (drain).

Important: slope internal sewerage slightly larger than the external one. For a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm it is 3 cm per meter, and for 100 mm it is 1.5-2 cm.

In order for it to work for the required period of time in a private house, you must first install it correctly. This is 80 percent of success. But even after startup, it is necessary to properly monitor the system.

1. Initially, correctly organize and calculate the volume of waste.
2. Pump out the cesspool in a timely manner. And not only the liquid fraction, but also the sediment at the bottom of the wells.
3. Make sure that no foreign objects get into the pipe that could cause a blockage. For example, small parts of children's toys, rags, etc.
4. Conduct a timely external inspection of septic tanks and pits to check their tightness.

Useful video

Practical work:

General principle:

Unfortunately, in dacha conditions, connecting a house to the main systems for collecting and disposing of contaminated water is often impossible, therefore optimal solution There will be an autonomous sewage system. A seemingly complex task can be solved on your own and without special financial costs.

Types of sewerage. Which system type to choose?

Before you make a sewer system at your dacha with your own hands, you need to decide on its components and the most preferred type of storage or recycling of waste.

Autonomous sewerage has three parts:

• internal (house) network with installed plumbing;
• external (yard) network;
• treatment plant.

There are three main types of autonomous sewer systems for a summer cottage. The choice depends on the following factors:

1. the residence is used as the main one or is visited periodically;
2. number of people living;
3. conditions for summer cottage(relief, distance to groundwater);
4. number of plumbing fixtures.

Cumulative sewage system for a summer residence

This is the organization of a cesspool without a bottom or the use of a storage tank. The most archaic and impractical option (but the cheapest). Suitable for country houses, whose owners rarely visit their dacha.

The method is very simple, but has some disadvantages: the threat of groundwater contamination, the presence of a constant unpleasant odor, the need to frequently call specialized transport for pumping.

Septic tank

The most common option for autonomous sewerage for country house. It consists of two to four tanks (wells) connected in series, in which wastewater is filtered. The minimum recommended volume of a septic tank is three times the rate of water consumption per day (one person uses an average of 200 liters).

You can buy a factory-made septic tank, bury it and forget it, but you can find a cheaper solution by assembling the sewer system yourself. Moreover, a septic tank constructed from concrete rings or a plastic container (tires from heavy tractors are also used), will perform its task no worse than an expensive factory one.

Biological treatment plants

When using this system, wastewater is subjected to deep purification using biomaterial. This option is the most effective and preferable, but it requires a substantial investment and is very difficult to install.

Having chosen the type, it is advisable to begin work on a scheme (project) for organizing sewerage at a summer cottage.

To do this, you can use a computer and special program. If new technologies are not available, we take graph paper, arm ourselves with a pencil, a ruler and an installation tape measure, and begin to draw up diagrams of the country sewer system.

Since the system’s main line will run both in the house and in the yard, two separate plans will be needed.

Before you start developing a sewerage scheme, you need to determine:

• how the dacha will be used - for permanent or periodic residence;
• how many people will be in the house at all times;
• type of treatment plant;
• average consumption water per person per day;
• the size of the dacha plot.

The sewerage scheme is developed according to the following algorithm:

1. Drawing up a house plan to scale.
2. Determining the location of risers.
3. Selection of conventional locations of plumbing fixtures and methods of connecting them.
4. Marking the diagram connecting elements, going from styles and risers to plumbing, as well as all necessary connections(tees, couplings, bends, etc.).
5. Determining the dimensions of the riser and fan pipe.
6. Summing the length of all lines and taps house sewerage.
7. Preparing the circuit external highway from the outlet pipe to the treatment plant (cesspool or septic tank). In this case, the norms of SanPiN 2.1.4.1110-02 and SNiP 2.04.03-85 should be taken into account.

The determining factor when purchasing pipes is the material that was used for manufacturing - the wiring design, selection of components, connection method, and service life of the system depend on it.

Consider the positive and negative qualities various types pipes for autonomous sewerage.

Currently, asbestos-cement and cast iron pipes They are practically not used when laying sewer systems in dachas and private homes. Both internal and yard sewage systems are made mainly from practical plastic pipes. Light weight and a large number of connecting components allow even an unprofessional craftsman to cope with installation.

An important indicator When choosing pipes for sewerage, the diameter is considered. A competent approach to this issue will help to avoid possible education blockages in the future.

It is better to use pipes for laying sewerage along the street orange color made of polypropylene with a diameter of 110 mm. They are not afraid of corrosion, have increased rigidity and can be laid to a depth of up to three meters.

In addition to pipes, for the installation of a country sewer system, you will definitely need various components (corners, bends, fittings, crosses, adapters, couplings, gaskets), which are intended for connecting pipes to each other, moving from one diameter to another, creating corners, turns, etc. When purchasing For components, you should choose parts made from the same material as the pipes.

Application quality materials will protect from possible problems when operating an autonomous sewer system.

Do-it-yourself sewerage installation at the dacha: installation rules

It is best to start installing a sewer system at home.

The main task when laying pipes inside the house is to ensure the smoothest possible flow of waste liquids. Internal sewer drain lines begin to be installed from the outlet.

Do-it-yourself country sewerage: organizing the release

In order to avoid the problem of inconsistency between the external and internal components of the system, installation work It’s better to start with the outlet (the part of the system that connects the pipes leaving the house with the line leading to the treatment plant).

The outlet is installed below the soil freezing depth, the value of which is different for each region (established by SNiP 2.02.01-83). To do this, a hole is punched in the foundation, a slope-setting sleeve is installed (a piece of pipe with a diameter of 13-60 cm) and an offset pipe is laid. After installation, the sleeve is fixed cement mortar.

Autonomous sewage system at the dacha: procedure

1. The first step is to connect the plumbing with a water seal and a snake-like tube, which will protect the room from penetration unpleasant odors.
2. Now it is necessary to install the first pipe to the sewer water seal.
3. The transition is made by connecting a horizontal pipe to a vertical pipe. Two plastic elbows are used, bent at an angle of 45 degrees.
4. If the riser is located far away, it is necessary to lay a pipe at a slope of three centimeters one meter in length to the nearest riser or connect it to a sewer line coming from another plumbing fixture.
5. The required slope is set using special clamps fixed to the wall or floor; they are placed at a distance of about two meters.
6. Installation of revisions to remove blockages. This part is necessary after each sewer turn and in houses with more than two floors.
7. The connection of pipes with diameters of 50 and 100 mm is made using a special adapter.

When installing an internal sewerage system, it is better to lay the water supply and sewerage systems in one groove. This will reduce the amount of installation work and the time required to carry it out.

The correct drainage inside a private house should always be downhill:

• for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm - 3 cm per 1 meter of length;
• for 100 mm and more - 2 cm per 1 meter of length.

The use of a vent pipe for ventilation is necessary:

• if the house has several floors;
• if the riser diameter is 50 mm or less;
• if there is a system that creates a powerful flow of wastewater (for example, a swimming pool).

Country sewerage: external work

The main task of external sewerage is to remove waste liquids (wastewater) from the system. It consists of a straight pipe running from the outlet to the treatment plant (latrine or septic tank).

The sloped pipe is laid at the depth of soil freezing or lower (depending on the region, the average depth from the surface is 70-80 cm). If necessary, insulated with foamed polyethylene or mineral wool(the top is protected from moisture by a plastic box).

Bottom line

Organizing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands is a difficult task only at first glance. Study our recommendations and advice from professionals, and feel free to get down to business.

If you entrust the work qualified specialist, the knowledge gleaned from the material will help control installation work and take part in the development of diagrams and drawings, which will ultimately help avoid problems and poor-quality solutions.

The improvement of a private home is accompanied by the laying of communications that form the basis for the comfort and well-being of the owners. Even temporary housing summer cottage– cannot do without a simple sewer system designed to collect wastewater.

Let's try to find out how to install a sewer system in a dacha with your own hands and what standards are fundamental.

As you know, dacha communities and country villages are located far from large populated areas, so the owners garden houses You can't count on centralized service. The way out of this situation is to organize a separate local system for each suburban area separately.

In elite villages, powerful VOCs are often installed that can simultaneously serve several large cottages, but this is rather an exception to the rule. general rule. More often, owners of garden plots ranging from 6 to 15 acres make do with more modest budget devices - cesspools or simple septic tanks.

Scheme of the simplest sewerage system in a country house: simple internal wiring (sink + toilet), a straight pipe for household waste, a cesspool with an access road for special equipment

Both can be built from inexpensive building or alternative materials, such as:

• factory-made concrete blanks;
• red or white brick;
• cement mortar (to create a sealed monolithic container);
• car tires.

There is another way, more expensive, but quite effective - installing a ready-made factory container made of modified plastic, equipped with a pipe for connection to a pipe, ventilation and a technical hatch.

Dig drain hole without creating a sealed tank is prohibited, as this contradicts sanitary standards. Sewage, teeming with pathogenic bacteria and chemically aggressive substances, goes directly into the soil and groundwater, polluting it.

Country house arrangement option outdoor toilet. The cesspool partially extends beyond the “house”, and technical hatch to empty the storage tank is located near the building - this makes it possible to do without a pipeline

There is also no point in installing expensive biological treatment stations, since the volume of wastewater will most likely be minimal, and the treatment facility will more closely resemble the same storage tank.

So it turns out that the best option is a large cesspool or a septic tank-type structure. On a large plot there may be several cesspools, for example, a peat pit for an outdoor toilet and two storage tanks - at the bathhouse and at the house.

Possible sewer schemes

Depending on the number of residents, even temporary ones, the number of plumbing fixtures, total number drains, objects connected to the sewerage system, the schemes can be completely different.

All parts of the system have distinctive features:

• internal wiring;
• simple or branched pipeline;
• type of pit or septic tank.

Let's look at a few of the most popular schemes.

A modern dacha bears little resemblance to a utility room or barn. Owners of even modest suburban plots are trying to build high-quality, reliable, roomy housing, so a two-story building has long ceased to be a rarity. The best option wiring for two floors is shown in the diagram:

Image gallery

Sewerage for a dacha is no less complex to design than home system. It is very important to choose a septic tank here, since not all of them are designed for seasonal use. You can’t do without drainage and storm water in your dacha, especially when big flood, high groundwater level, clay soil. Compliance with SNiP requirements guarantees convenient, uninterrupted operation.

Can use several types of septic tank:

• made of concrete rings– poor tightness of joints, the need for lifting equipment, heavy trucks for delivery
• fiberglass– the high cost of the material makes them inaccessible to most pensioners
• polyethylene, PVC– affordable price, manual installation, high tightness, the need for concrete anchors

Seasonal residence of a small family does not require a large volume of treatment facilities, therefore, the following budget models are most often used:

• Topas– 98% efficiency, suitable for any soil, low maintenance costs (cleaning after 2 years), non-volatile
• Tank– for small families, it is a storage tank into which anaerobic bacteria can be added, it is possible to increase the volume during operation
• Aqua– three chambers with overflow, anaerobic decomposition of organic matter, horizontal tank arrangement, non-volatile, annual pumping
• Akuor– fiberglass body, non-volatile, high strength, 70% purification, ten-year manufacturer’s warranty, processing up to 25 cubic meters daily
• Anion– five models of different volumes, horizontal arrangement, fastening with clamps to concrete platform, volumetric cover on the last section, modular system to change volume

If the issue of electricity and water supply is more or less resolved, then the issue of recycling wastewater from the kitchen, bathroom and toilet poses some difficulty for most. It’s good if there is a centralized sewerage system nearby. They called in special equipment, dug a couple of trenches, and in them sewer pipes, – and order! But what to do if there is no such possibility of arranging a sewerage system on a summer cottage? In this case, the so-called country septic tank will come to the rescue, the main task of which is to accumulate and process wastewater to a state where it becomes safe for the environment.

An inexpensive country septic tank is a storage tank that accumulates wastewater. At their core they are the same cesspools, only with more advanced environmental and sanitary functions.

A country septic tank, built on the principle of accumulation, is quite simple in its design and is relatively durable and the most inexpensive. This option is inconvenient because you often have to call a sewer truck, which leaves a not entirely beautiful trail of its progress through the flower beds on the plot.

But still, septic tanks with deep wastewater treatment are more popular among modern summer residents. In such septic tanks, water purification processes take place, as a result of which it reaches a state where it can be used for watering garden plants. The disadvantage of such installations is that their functionality depends on the power supply. After all, the design of such a septic tank includes compressors for pumping air into aerators and airlifts. Often this fact becomes decisive when choosing the type of country septic tank, since in terms of price it does not play in their favor - storage units much cheaper.

An alternative, intermediate option that does not have high purchase costs, but requires certain labor costs when installed, there is a complex of two (or three) containers. Effluents settle in them. Afterwards, the wastewater is purified in aeration fields, where water, passing through layers of soil, is subjected to mechanical treatment and aerobic microbes.

An important determining factor when purchasing or self-production treatment plant is correct calculation of its performance. It would be right to choose a country septic tank, taking into account maximum amount people who live in the house and the amount of water they will use.

For the most part, installing a country septic tank involves earthworks. There are slight differences in the design of pits for conventional country septic tanks and septic tanks with an aeration field. With the first ones everything is somewhat simpler:

• taking into account the bottom filling and side filling, a foundation pit is prepared;
• a trench is dug to supply a pipe through which wastewater will flow into the septic tank;
• The method of removing purified water is determined.

Setting up country septic tanks with an aeration field is a more labor-intensive process, since creating a filtration field takes much longer. This also requires compliance with all manufacturer-recommended conditions that will ensure correct work country septic tank.

The construction of a dacha sewer system begins with design and determination of daily flow. Inside the dacha they use gray PPE, HDPE, PVC pipes and fittings for them. Carving in sewer system absent (except for siphons). Risers are made from 110 mm products with sockets or connecting them with couplings. Compensators are used between floors; pipes are secured with the possibility of vertical movement. Horizontal sewer lines are twice as thin; either couplings or sockets are also used here. To connect pipes of the same/different diameters, the industry produces tees, adapters, and elbows.

The most complex circuit The dacha sewerage system includes a filtration field. For a similar well that discharges water, manufacturers produce compact cone-shaped structures with hatches for maintenance. For the filtration field, nothing better has yet been invented except for perforated/slotted flexible corrugated pipes. Therefore, before installation, you have to dig a pit, create a sand and then a gravel cushion, which is a natural filter.

Geotextiles and perforated pipes wrapped with the same material are laid on it, after which the trench is filled with crushed stone. Top part soil (50 - 60 cm) is suitable for growing vegetables and fruits. However, such a sewer discharge for a dacha is ineffective - after 7 - 10 years the area in this place begins to silt up. Moreover, the price of dacha sewerage in this case is higher than the average level.

Biological treatment stations (aeration tanks) are rarely installed due to their high cost and energy dependence. The advantage of these structures is that they are waste-free: water is reused and sludge serves as fertilizer. Such stations have an efficiency of 98%, therefore, they can be installed near the house, saving space for plants. Decorative septic tank covers fit perfectly into landscape design.

Country sewerage can be installed according to several schemes, taking into account groundwater level, soil freezing, seasonality of residence, and type of treatment plant. The main ones are:

• general drainage of gray and black wastewater
• separate drainage of wastewater: gray into a filtration well, black into a septic tank for clarification
• separate outlet with integration in different chambers of one biological treatment station

The choice is individual for each specific case, depending on the capabilities and preferences of the developer.

In this option, the efficiency of the treatment plant must ensure 70% clarification, otherwise all the wastewater accumulated in it will have to be pumped out as it fills. Seventy percent purification is enough to discharge clarified water into the soil through a field/filtration well, while the area will not become silted or polluted. In this case, the self-cleaning of the pipeline is maximum, since gray waste balances fecal waste, and vice versa.

The dacha sewage system is never overcrowded (the economy mode is on, there are a small number of users), therefore, the main line is not afraid of frost. A non-volatile septic tank is preferable, since its operation occurs intermittently. The volume is chosen to be minimal; the plastic case is much more convenient when self-installation without the help of neighbors or lifting mechanisms.

Separate country sewerage

When separating black, gray wastewater, self-cleaning pipes require different characteristics streams:

• Fecal wastewater contains large floating fractions, therefore, complete filling of the pipe is required, low speed
• gray waste contains a lot of heavy fine fractions, which are best transported at high speed with minimal filling of pipes

Country sewerage is characterized by low volumes of water consumption, therefore, for both systems, 50 mm pipes in the internal and external sewer systems and 40 mm siphons are sufficient. Organic waste from the kitchen sink, detergents, and food debris can be discharged into the ground in infiltration devices. These are filtration fields consisting of several buried perforated pipes, wells without a bottom with perforation of the lower belt, natural filters made of crushed stone.

A two-chamber septic tank with anaerobic bacteria will purify gray waste, clarify the water up to 90%, making it suitable for household use(watering, washing). Infiltration structures are installed at an elevation of 0.5 m and higher from the groundwater level, always above the aquifer, which ensures natural purification before they enter a clean aquifer. The water intake well should ideally be located higher upstream than the filter well. In practice, it is not always possible to study the flow inside the formation.

Country sewerage system with wastewater pooling inside the septic tank

This option is rarely used because country sewerage with a deep cleaning station is too expensive for seasonal use. They combine wastewater inside the septic tank, which allows them to improve their characteristics through mixing. Anaerobic bacteria are unable to cope with high concentrations of feces; aerobic microorganisms die at high levels. household chemicals from detergents. Flows are transported separately, reducing the likelihood of blockages and increasing the resource of underground pipelines. Inside the treatment plant they are connected for complete clarification.

Country sewerage of this type is 98% efficient, however, it is too expensive for users. IN winter period, When treatment plant no one uses it, bacterial colonies die without food, and in the spring it is necessary to purchase new microorganisms to place them in the septic tank chambers.