A brick fence is a practical and aesthetic way to fence a site. Which brick is better for a fence? Ceramic brick fence posts

One of the most reliable materials for the construction of fences, combining practical and aesthetic functions, is brick.

Laying a brick fence with your own hands different ways which are described below.

Whichever one you choose, it is important to do the job correctly, because the strength and durability of the entire structure depends entirely on the quality of the masonry.

Preparation

Before starting to build a fence, it is necessary to perform a number of actions related to ensuring the theoretical and material basis for future construction.

These include:

1. Determining the functions of the fence and the parameters it should have - thickness, height, shape.
2. Project development. Depending on the complexity and size of the structure, you can limit yourself to a sketch on paper or draw up a full-fledged scale drawing.
3. Selecting the type of brick and calculating the quantity. Single brick laying involves average consumption about 100 units per 1 m2, double – 200 units, etc.
4. Procurement of materials and tools.

The drawing is made according to such parameters as height, width, shape of the fence

The last 2 points are worth considering in more detail, because in many ways they determine the service life of the structure.

First you need to decide on the type of material:

• The most popular are red, facing and frost-resistant bricks.
• The advantage of red is relative accessibility and good strength, however, to prevent cracking and delamination of the material it must be plastered or hidden with others protective coatings, which can negatively affect the appearance of the fence.
• Facing brick is free of this drawback and allows you to imitate various building materials in accordance with the design concept.
• Highest resistance to adverse influences external environment have frost-resistant brands.

Photos of popular bricks:

Facing Frost-resistant Red

Once the choice is made, the theoretical consumption of material for the brickwork of the fence is calculated in accordance with the above scheme with a margin of 5-10%.

The next step is to prepare everything necessary for construction.

The list of things to be purchased or prepared includes:

• Bricks.
• Reinforcement, wire, fine mesh.
• Wide boards (can be used).
• Waterproofing materials.
• Cement, sand, plasticizer and water (or ready mix for masonry).
• Crushed stone or slag.
• Concrete mixer or deep container for preparing the mixture.
• Shovels and trowels of different sizes.
• Tamping.
• Durable nylon thread.
• Buckets.
• Hammer.
• Bulgarian.
• Roulette.
• Level.

To make the fence strong, it is necessary to provide brick columns at equal masonry intervals, in all corners, places where gates and gates are installed.

Depending on the soil type, terrain and technical characteristics construction size of gaps may vary between 2-6 meters.

Marking and preparing the foundation

To mark the foundation, use a tape measure and rods (wooden or rebar).

The rods are driven into the places where future columns will be installed at their corners and a thread is pulled between them at an equal height.

If span length more than 2-3 meters, it is recommended to install intermediate rods.

This is a very responsible operation, because making changes to the layout next stages will be extremely difficult or impossible.

A trench is dug along the entire perimeter with a depth of at least one meter and a width of 60-80 cm greater than the thickness of the future masonry. The walls and bottom should be as smooth as possible.

The bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of sand 10-15 cm thick and compacted thoroughly.

After this it is installed wooden formwork and central reinforcement of the pillars, and the trench is filled with concrete.

It will be possible to remove the formwork in two weeks, and after a month you can start laying brick fence on a foundation that has already gained strength.

Types of masonry

Laying a brick fence begins with the creation of a brick base, the width of which, as a rule, is slightly larger than the main width of the fence, but less than the width of the foundation.

The base is necessary to smooth out uneven terrain and can be made from ordinary brands of brick, even if the main part will be laid out with facing or frost-resistant ones.

The base and foundation on top are covered with a waterproofing layer, represented by several sheets of roofing material or one sheet of aquaizol.

Useful video:

Now you can start building the pillars. To do this, central pipes or reinforcement bars, previously installed in the foundation, are lined with ring rows of 1.5 or 2.5 bricks.

The gaps between the metal guides and the pillar walls are filled with concrete upon completion of the masonry. It is advisable to cover the tops of the pillars with shaped caps, but it is more convenient to do this at the final stage of fence construction.

All that remains is to create the spans. To do this, fill the space between the pillars using one of the following types brick fence laying:

• Chain ligation is an ordered arrangement of bricks in rows, in which two bricks of the bottom row symmetrically overlap one in the top row;
• Wild dressing is an asymmetrical masonry, the only condition of which lies in the absence of coincident joints.

This basic circuits for masonry of one brick, but they are also applicable for masonry of 1.5, 2 or more, taking into account the location of every second element perpendicular to the previous one.

In any case, it is important not to forget to lay the mesh every 4-5 rows to ensure structural strength.

You can control the width and thickness of the gaps using feelers from improvised means, and the geometry of the rows using levels.

Do-it-yourself bricklaying of a fence is a fascinating and useful, but not easy task. Accuracy, attentiveness, accuracy and patience are extremely important here.

And then, provided you follow the described technology, you can really get reliable protection your site on long years.

To ensure that the fence around the house is not only beautiful, but also strong and reliable, it is important to use suitable bricks for the fence. There are many types and brands of brick products on the construction market, and a person who has nothing to do with construction can independently choose for a fence suitable material it will be hard. However, having understood the characteristics and studied all the types, you can choose a brick that is suitable in quality and price, from which you can build a fence.

Advantages and disadvantages

• Materials for building a fence are expensive, so not everyone can afford this option.
• The erected structure is heavy, so if the foundation is laid incorrectly, the risk of rapid destruction of the barrier increases.

However, a brick fence has many more advantages:

• A properly constructed structure is durable, reliable and resistant to harsh climatic and mechanical influences.
• The design has a long service life, while maintenance and repair costs are minimal.
• The abundance of various building elements allows you to choose a material for the fence that is suitable in color, shape and texture, thanks to which the fence will have not only a protective, but also a decorative function.

Brands of bricks for fence

For the construction of fence supports and walls, a product with different characteristics. The first classification takes into account the components of brick blocks:

Silicate material is used for laying the walls of the structure.

• Ceramic. The main element of the blocks is clay, which is pressed and then fired. Ceramic brick is better suited for wall construction, as it is strong, moisture-resistant, and durable.
• . Components of the product - quartz sand, lime, water. The elements are combined, after which they are pressed and fired. This type of block is reliable, frost-resistant, durable, but has low moisture resistance. A fence made of sand-lime brick is considered environmentally friendly, and thanks to its wide color scheme By combining different shades with each other, it will be possible to bring to life the most daring ideas.

A separate classification is proposed depending on the area of ​​application:

• Building. Used for the construction of pillars, walls, foundations, floors.
• . With its help, the structure is given decorative look, but this type of blocks is not prohibited from being used for construction purposes. For example, a fence made of clinker bricks will not only be beautiful, but also reliable, strong, and durable. also has similar characteristics, so it is often used as a finishing or construction material. And in order for the building to have an attractive appearance not only from the outside, but also from the inside, it is recommended to build a fence using a double-sided brick block.

Which brick to choose?

A more expensive option for this design would be facing blocks.

The brand and type of brick product are selected taking into account the general architectural style houses and outbuildings. In order for the fence to be strong, when purchasing a product it is important to take into account the weather and climatic conditions and the composition of the soil around it. personal plot. If finances allow, it is better to use facing blocks for pillars and partitions. It will cost less sand-lime brick, at least by decorative characteristics it is inferior to the facing one. But the erected structure will not be durable and reliable.

Construction stages

Design

To begin with, it is important to determine the dimensions of the fence and use pegs and rope to outline the perimeter. The amount of material is calculated, a drawing of the future structure is drawn up, its shape, color scheme, and the presence of other elements, for example, forging, metal profiles, are determined. Everything you need is purchased with a small reserve. If it is impossible to build a fence yourself, a team of builders is invited, with whom prices and other details are agreed upon. important points.

Laying the foundation

A properly laid foundation for a fence ensures the structure's strength and integrity, so it is important to take a responsible approach to pouring the foundation. Often, 2 types of foundations are built under a brick fence:

For construction, you can prepare a strip foundation.

• Tape. Standard width tapes 40 cm, depth up to 0.5 m. For reliability, reinforcement is carried out with iron rods, after which everything is filled with concrete mixture.
• Grillage. When installing brick racks, a foundation is formed to a depth of 1.2-1.5 m, and a strip base is poured between the supports standard method. This type of foundation is strong and durable, but it is more expensive and labor-intensive.

To prevent the spread of moisture, waterproofing is carried out. For these purposes, it is recommended to use roofing felt. You can give the finished base a decorative look using natural or artificial stone, clinker tiles, gray crushed bricks, porcelain stoneware.

Brick fencing always exudes special monumentality and reliability. Such fences not only look aesthetically attractive, but also provide protection to the entire house and are not afraid of various natural disasters.

Advantages of the design

The brick fence is quite strong and reliable design. It is fire-resistant, durable, and can withstand exposure to natural factors. For example, if you build a wall with one brick masonry, it will easily withstand wind loads at wind speeds of up to 15 m/s. The fencing is easy to maintain and does not require special cleaning or painting.

A variety of blocks, varying in shape and size, will allow you to choose the right one stylistic decision and successfully integrate the fence into the landscape and interior of the house. So, original fence with brick pillars will be a wonderful decoration for a country plot.

But there are undoubtedly some disadvantages that need to be taken into account when planning construction work:

• the possibility of efflorescence in the form of a white coating;
• need to use only quality material for masonry;
• high cost and labor-intensive construction.

Preparatory work

To build a fence, you need to prepare the necessary material in advance - crushed stone with sand, reinforcing bars, cement composition and brick blocks. For brickwork, you will need to dilute a special solution of cement, sand and water. Sometimes plasticizers are added. The volume of the batch is calculated based on an hour of continuous work.

It is important to choose the right brick. The material must be of high quality. More expensive and reliable facing bricks do not require additional finishing works. The wall will have an aesthetically attractive appearance.

But ceramic bricks with a rough surface can give your building original look. Standard red brick is subsequently plastered or left unfinished. Fireproof or frost-resistant material gives the fence greater strength and resistance to weather factors.

In order for the structure to have a high-quality appearance, as in the photo of brick fences, it is advisable to correctly calculate the need for blocks. For single-type masonry you will need 100 pieces per 1 square meter. m, and for double – already 200 units.

Decorative fences are constructed using one or one and a half bricks, but for more durable fences with protective function double masonry will be required. The height can be from half a meter to 3.5 m.

Before starting work, you need to take measurements taking into account the perimeter of the structure, the quality of the soil, and the presence of differences. In order for the structure to be rigid and durable, it is advisable to specify the design in the drawings brick pillars.

The installation step of such pillars can be within 2-3 m and even up to 6 m. The installation site must be cleared of debris, grass and other vegetation.

Foundation arrangement

For those craftsmen who decide to independently answer the question of how to make a brick fence with their own hands, our simple instructions. In this case, the first very important stage is the construction of the foundation.

Site marking

Along the walls of the planned trench, pegs should be driven in at intervals of up to 1 m. A string is stretched between them. It is important to timely mark the installation points of the poles, as well as the fastening of gates and gates. All angles must be 90 degrees, for which a square is used.

Creating a Foundation

The foundation for a brick fence is usually selected belt type. However, if there are differences in height on the site, it is advisable to construct a columnar foundation.

Depth strip design should be at least 60-70 cm, but many professionals recommend increasing it to 1 m. The width of the trench is determined by the characteristics of the masonry, but is 60-65 cm wider than the structure itself. Metal pipes are driven into the places where the poles are installed to strengthen the structure.

At the bottom of the trench, it is advisable to build a drainage cushion from a 10-15 cm layer of sand and gravel. After this, formwork from boards is installed to obtain a flat top edge. A reinforcing mesh is placed on the drainage pad - rods woven into a mesh using steel wire.

A concrete solution is poured into the trench from above. To make it, take cement, crushed stone and sand in a ratio of 1:3:3. Then the surface is leveled and air is released. To do this, the surface is pierced with a rod in several places.

The fill should be covered and left for 7-10 days to gain strength, after which the formwork can be removed. Complete hardening occurs after 3-4 weeks.

Installation of supports

The pillars can be one-and-a-half with 1.5 bricks or double with 2 blocks. For strength, reinforcement with reinforcement is used. Gaps between installed pipes and a brick casing are filled with concrete. Sometimes these spaces are added broken brick, and only then – the solution. The design of the supports must be strictly vertical.

After 2 -2.5 weeks, the masonry should be treated with a solution to remove white spots, and the top should be covered with caps to prevent the accumulation of water.

Features of fencing masonry

Before starting work, the brick should be soaked in water. Laying is done using a trowel on a solution of cement, sand and water. Single-row masonry is a standard solution when arranging a fence, however, when planning tall structures, it is advisable to use a double one.

The brick is first laid out along the entire perimeter of the foundation in several rows. At the same time, orders are set up in the corners with nails.

The correctness of the work can be monitored using twine or a constantly moving board. Seams are treated with a standard solution or special compounds. The entire fencing fabric must be reliably waterproofed.

A brick fence with corrugated sheeting is popular. If the spans are made of this material or, for example, of wood, then you must first build a frame from a 20x40 mm pipe. Then 2 jumpers are fixed on it. All seams are cleaned, sanded, and the sheets are primed and treated with enamel. The corrugated sheet is attached to the lintels using self-tapping screws with a gasket through the wave.

A brick fence with forging also looks quite attractive. This method is suitable for decorating spans made of corrugated sheets. Forging elements will also decorate a wicket or gate.

Sometimes the fence needs to be lined with stone, beads, or granite. A cellular or welded mesh is laid on the surface of the fence. Then the plane is plastered with the addition of coarse filler to visualize the roughness.

When the plaster has dried, it is cleaned and facing begins using stone and a mortar of sand and cement in a 2:1 ratio. The mixture is applied to the tiles, and the size of the joints should be no more than 1.5 cm. As a result of such work, you will be able to build an aesthetically attractive and reliable brick fence.

Photos of brick fences

A fence in the form of a solid fence is a reliable rear for any site. One of the most reliable, strong and attractive is the laying of a brick fence. You can do the masonry yourself. Many people start installing such a fence without turning to professionals for help. It is enough to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the material, its types and, having chosen the method of laying bricks, get to work.

Execution options

A variety of relief brickwork includes:

• to get a herringbone shape, you need to lay the bricks at an angle of 45 degrees to the wall line (axial). They can be made protruding or recessed inward;
• imitating the shape of a cornice: the last rows must be extended beyond the wall plane with a ladder;
• it is done like a herringbone, only without a protrusion, and the dressing is performed between oblique rows;
• tuck is when a brick (one or more) or a row of bricks moves beyond the wall plane;
• to make a dome shape, you need to build a pyramidal shape on the last rows after the cornice or dart shape;
• imitation of honeycombs: you need to make gaps (up to 1/3 the size of a brick), and not seams between bricks (in a spoon row);
• the hedgehog is made like a mesh, but the brick corners will extend beyond the wall surface.

Fencing elements

There may be arched masonry (the gaps are laid out in this form). Empty clearings are filled with any material (lattice, stone, etc.).

Carved figured - a rare occurrence. To implement it, it is necessary to make a carving. Then, in order to create designs with a certain relief, this carving is laid out according to the design in the pillars. The cost of this option starts from 28 rubles/piece. Brick carvings can cause potholes. If this happens, then you need to fill them with any waterproof product (for example, combine brick dust with construction glue).

Preparatory work

It is important to calculate future loads, make a foundation design, and make calculations necessary materials, and then start laying.

Work progress map

Preparation - important stage any business. After all, the service life of the future structure directly depends on the choice of material and compliance with recommendations. Before making the brick itself you will need:

1. Select the parameters of the future structure (thickness, shape), determine its main function (protection from burglars, from prying eyes, decorative function).
2. Prepare a project (professional drawing with scale or amateur sketch).
3. Determine the type of brick.
4. Calculate required amount consumables. Be sure to allow for extra margin (about 10 percent).
5. Purchase materials.
6. Prepare tools.

Reinforcement required

For this you will need:

• bricks;
• net;
• fittings;
• wire;
• waterproofing;
• masonry mixture (we make it ourselves from water, plasticizer, sand and cement, or we purchase ready-made);
• slag or crushed stone;
• large container for the mixture (if there is no concrete mixer);
• several shovels;
• various trowels;
• tamping;
• bucket;
• nylon thread;
• centimeter;
• level;
• hammers;
• Bulgarian.

Fence installation

For getting robust construction construct columns (columns) at equal distances along the length of the entire foundation. The masonry of such bricks is installed in the corners, near. The characteristics of the structure, soil and topography of the site are taken into account. The gaps between the columns can be different - from 2 to 6 m.

Laying a fence

The technology is simple. First of all, we make markings. Then we start pouring the foundation. Then we lay the brick.

For successful work, you should know the characteristics of the material, follow all the rules of masonry, and take into account the nuances.

In the village

Marking

Installation diagram

Let's get started:

1. At the bottom we place a layer of sand (about 15 cm thick) and compact it.
2. We install formwork and reinforcement for posts.
3. Fill the trench with concrete mixture.
4. We remove the formwork after 2 weeks.
5. When it finally gets stronger (in a month), we begin to lay a brick fence.

Masonry

After waiting until the foundation is completely dry, we begin to build the fence fabric. For smooth brickwork, stretch the twine or thread (using a level).

Drawing for building a fence

Let's start the process:

1. We place the first row without a binding mixture (on a dry foundation). This manipulation will allow you to calculate the required number of bricks for one row. Find out if halves will be needed.
2. We begin the process by laying out the brick base. Its width should be slightly wider than the future fence, but narrower. Such a base can be laid with ordinary brick (regardless of the fact that the subsequent brick will be different). The main task of the base is to smooth out uneven terrain.
3. Having prepared the masonry mortar, using a trowel, we lay the first row of bricks directly on the foundation (its base).
4. We cover the top of the foundation and the finished base with waterproofing (your choice, be it roofing felt or aquaizol).
5. We continue to build the wall. We take into account the presence of figured protrusions. These can be niches, flower beds. Let's also not forget about the support columns.
6. When erecting brick fence posts, we use metal pipes or fittings (must be already installed). They must be surrounded in ring rows. When the columns are erected, we fill the gaps, as well as the voids between the metal and the walls of the columns. At the end of all work, we cover the columns with special (curly) ones.
7. We carefully bandage the seams. They should all be the same thickness around the entire perimeter of the canvas and without voids. The ideal width is 10 mm. We monitor the displacement of the vertical seams. A displacement of no less than 1/3 of the width or length of the brick in relation to each row is allowed.
8. We make spans between columns in the following ways: chain ligation(symmetrical masonry, where 2 lower bricks overlap 1 upper brick in the center of the seam) or wild (asymmetrical, the joints should not coincide). The mesh is laid in every 4th or 5th row (to increase the strength of the structure).

Drawing and section for installing the foundation

Eurogib specialists constantly have to travel to construction sites for measurements and installation. When we go out to order caps for fence posts, we often come across mistakes that even experienced masons make when building brick pillars. The laying of fence posts has its own characteristics and differences from the laying of walls of houses or stoves. In this article we want to highlight the basic principles of building brick fences.

The foundation for a brick fence is very important thing. The more massive the fence is, the more reliable the foundation under it should be. Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the foundation for those fence elements on which the gate will be installed.

When choosing a foundation design, they play a big role load-bearing capacity soil. For example, it could be a strip foundation, in which bored piles are located in the center, and a metal pipe is laid in each of them, but the choice of the type of foundation for brick pillars depends on what material the filling will be made of, as well as on the type of soil. If the fence span is from lightweight material(corrugated sheeting, wood), you can make a pile foundation for each pillar. The depth of the pile depends on the type of soil and the height of the pile. groundwater. If the soils are classified as heaving (clay or loams) with highly located groundwater, the level of the bottom of the foundation should be located 15-20 cm below the freezing depth of the soil. On well-drained soils (sands and sandy loams), it is enough to lay the bottom of the foundation at a depth of up to 80 cm.

Here is one of the options pile foundation under a brick pillar: we drill a hole of the required depth (diameter 25-35 cm), fill the bottom with a bucket or two of crushed stone, compact it with one of possible ways. We install formwork inside the hole (usually roofing felt rolled into two or three layers). We place a pipe inside the formwork, around which we will subsequently lay the pillar. The length of the pipe consists of two quantities: the part that is walled up in concrete and the part that will rise above the level of the top of the foundation. Moreover, the upper section of the pipe in this case does not necessarily have to be up to the very top of the pillar. It can rise only 40-50 cm. An exception is the pillars on which the gate and/or wicket will be hung. Here the internal reinforcement should be almost to the very top.

If the fence is planned to be entirely brick or there are high wind loads in the region, most likely you will need to make a full-fledged strip foundation. Another option is piles connected with shallow tape.

Most often, brick pillars are made 2-3 meters high. But the designs can be different, it all depends on the expected height of the fence itself. Accordingly, the higher the pillar, the stronger the foundation needs to be made.

The technology used to lay bricks for fence posts is exactly the same as for load-bearing structures, however, they will not serve as a support and their ability to withstand large vertical loads is completely unimportant.

The design of the post on which the gate or wicket will be attached may look something like this:

The design of the intermediate pillars to support the spans can be reinforced a little weaker, but the reinforcement of the pillars must be done:

The distance between the pillars of a brick fence can be from 2 to 8 meters. It depends on many circumstances and conditions:

• the volume of financial resources intended for the construction of the fence;
• dimensions of the filler material (span length of corrugated sheet or wooden picket fence) during the construction of a combined fence;
• load forces on the pillars.

You should not erect poles too rarely, as this will significantly affect the quality of the fence and its service life. And besides, it looks less attractive. Most optimal distance between posts 2.5 - 4 m. Measure the distance between the posts of the gate and gate very carefully so that you don’t have to adjust anything later. It is ideal when the dimensions of the gate and wicket are known before the construction of the brick fence. This way you can avoid many problems associated with subsequent fitting.

The span filler is attached to the pillars only after they have stood for some time. This usually takes 2-3 weeks.

Which brick to choose for a fence?

The simplest is ordinary ceramic brick. May be solid or hollow. In the first case, the advantages include strength, but the disadvantages include heavy weight. With the second option, everything is the other way around.

Another advantage is that it’s cheap, but it also comes with a drawback – it’s unpresentable. appearance. Typically, simple brick is used if the pillar will subsequently have an external finish.

Another option is clinker brick. Beautiful, durable, practically does not crumble. Captivates with the variety of textures, colors and the ability of clinker to harmonize with buildings made in both classical and traditional styles. modern styles. Of course, it will cost more than its simple clay counterpart.

The next option is sand-lime brick - very durable, frost-resistant, has excellent noise-absorbing qualities, environmentally friendly and, of course, not cheap.

Most often, fence posts are made from the same brick as the house itself. But combined options are possible:

Brick size standard red: width – 120, length – 250, height 65 mm. This ratio is considered optimal if you alternate longitudinal and transverse placement of single bricks in the masonry.

One and a half. Construction does not stand still; new brick sizes have appeared, in particular – one-and-a-half bricks. The width of such a brick is 120, length is 250, and height is 88 mm. To lighten the weight of the masonry, a special technique was developed: solid bricks alternated with porous, hollow and perforated ones.

Double. Brick of this type corpulent is practically never found; it is made in a perforated form to lighten the weight of the masonry. Brick size: width – 120, length – 250, height – 103 mm.

Euro– 250x85x65 mm, guest reduction 0.7 NF;

Single modular– 288x138x65 mm, guest abbreviation 1.3 NF.

Type of brick	Standard sizes, mm	Weight, kg
Ceramic facing brick	250*120*65 250*120*65 250*85*65(Euro)	2.3; 2.6-2.7 (hollow) 3.6-3.7 (hollow) 2.1-2.2 (hollow)
Thickened ceramic facing brick	250*120*88 250*85*88 (Euro)	3.2; 3.6-3.7 (hollow) 3.0-3.1 (hollow)
Clinker facing brick	250*120*65 250*90*65 250*60*65	4.2 (full) 2.2 (hollow) 1.7 (hollow)
Clinker facing brick (long)	528*108*37	3,75
Hyper-pressed (non-firing) brick, solid, smooth	250*120*65 250*90*65 250*60*65	4,2 2,0 4,0
Hyper-pressed (non-firing) brick, solid, smooth, thickened	250*120*88	6,0
Ceramic brick self made	188*88*63	1,9

Brick pillar laying

In most cases, fence posts are made of 1.5 or 2 bricks, cross-section 380*380 mm and 510*510 mm, respectively, up to 3 meters high.

It is best to do the masonry around a metal pipe, the base of which is concreted into the base of the foundation. Mandatory presence of long metal pipes(full height of the pillar) is for the pillars on which the gates are attached; for the rest, shorter pipes can be laid so that the elevation above top part the foundation was 300-500 mm, and then you can weld several rods with a diameter of 10 mm, but for the pillars that support the gate, this option is unacceptable.

At least for the bottom 3 rows you need to use solid brick. For the remaining rows, hollow facing is also suitable, but in this case the solution should not be too liquid, otherwise it will fall into the cracks of the brick.

The masonry is carried out with dressing (displacement) - the seam of the bottom row is overlapped by the “body” of the brick lying on top. The seam is standard - 8-10 mm. Scheme for laying columns in the photo:

Ceramic brick absorbs moisture very quickly, so if you hesitate a little, it will be difficult for you to “put” it in place. To ensure that the solution retains its plasticity longer, the brick is dipped in water for a few seconds before laying. The same maneuver makes it easier to remove excess mortar from the surface of the masonry (it is removed immediately with a dry cloth). This method of laying pillars has long been proven, but for beginners, if they do it themselves, it will be difficult for them to maintain an even seam. Much more convenient and faster work will pass if you use masonry under the rod: a metal rod with a side of 8-10 mm, cut into pieces (10-15 cm longer than sizes pillar).

Having laid the first row, a rod is laid on it along the edge of the brick. Fill the area with a small amount of solution, with a larger layer being made closer to the pipe. Next, moving the trowel along the rod, remove the excess, clearing the rod of the solution. But at the same time, the slope of the solution is maintained. They place a brick and level it. At the same time, the rod prevents it from settling too much, and we control the position of the other end with a level.

Then take a short piece of rod about 10 cm (for a vertical seam), place it along the end surface, apply the mortar with a trowel to the side of the laid brick, also removing the excess along the rod. Place and level the next brick. After the brick is set to the required position, the seam is pressed from above with a trowel, and the vertical rod is removed.

Other problems that may arise when laying pillars with your own hands are changes in size or “twisting”. Both defects arise from insufficient control of the vertical position of the bricks being laid.

At self-masonry very often the upper rows of pillars become much wider than the lower ones. This happens gradually, a millimeter or even less is added, but in almost every row. As a result, at a height of 2 m, the width of the column can be 400 mm or more, instead of the planned 380 mm. Avoiding this mistake is to control the size of each row. Control only building level insufficient. Mainly used household tool (yellow color), but it has a fairly large error. And if the level is 60-80 cm long, you simply will not see minor vertical deviations. Therefore, they additionally use a tape measure - checking each row by size, or you can make a template according to size (for example, from even planks) with which to check for possible deviations.

Laying pillars yourself without experience similar work can lead to another error: the edges of the pillar can shift, while the pillar “twists” around its axis - try attaching spans to such pillars. Therefore, when laying each row, you must strictly ensure that the corners are located strictly one above the other. You can make the task easier by using two corners screwed to opposite corners. They are temporarily attached to the lower rows (with bolts or self-tapping screws in the seam) and then used as a guide, placing the bricks strictly in the corner.

And finally, another fairly common mistake made by inexperienced craftsmen is the lack of mortgages for attaching gates, gates and fence sections. The result of forgetfulness is a very even and beautiful, but completely smooth pillar to which it is not possible to attach anything. Find out how to avoid such trouble below.

The type of mortgages depends on what the fence sections will be made from in the future. If this happens brickwork, then the role of the mortgages is reduced to connecting the pillars and sections into one whole. Since there will not be any special weight load on them, it is enough to use wire loops 8 mm thick, laid in every fourth row on the side of the post to which the sections will be attached.

If the sections are made of corrugated sheets or wooden beam, that is, they will be attached only to poles; more durable mortgages are needed that can withstand their weight and additional loads that arise. In this case, metal plates are used that are welded at a certain height (or mounted in any other way) to a base post or reinforced frame, and a cut is made in the brick using a grinder in the right place.

In the future, purlins will be welded to the mortgages, and corrugated sheets, metal rods or other elements will be mounted on them.

Pillars from facing bricks must be treated with a special impregnation, which will cover it with a film and will serve as protection against the appearance of efflorescence (whitish stains) and subsequent destruction.

All is ready? Don’t rush to fasten the fence sections right away - the posts should stand for about three weeks, otherwise you can easily ruin all the previously done work.

About finials (caps) and fence parapets

Caps for protecting the masonry of brick fence supports

Here it is, your first DIY brick pillar. It is perfectly smooth, with seams of the same width, made according to all the rules - a sight for sore eyes! In order for the pillar to remain so for many years, it is necessary finishing touch– pommel (cap). The intake hood performs several functions at once:

1. Protects the brick from excess moisture, which will destroy it when frozen.
2. Protects concrete and metal base pipes located in the middle of the column. If they are not protected, then during rains the concrete will gradually crumble, and water, accumulating in the resulting depressions, will sooner or later reach the metal base.
3. And finally, the pommel gives the post a more attractive, finished look, serving as its decoration.

For brick pillars, metal caps are usually used, the size of which is selected so that they protrude several centimeters beyond the boundaries of the pillar. When choosing them, give preference to products without rivets, with well-processed tight joints that can provide reliable protection. In addition, the following requirements apply:

• resistance to precipitation;
• sufficient angle of inclination to prevent moisture accumulation;
• Possibility of reliable and accurate fastening to the pole;
• the presence of ventilation to prevent the formation of condensation.

If the spans between the pillars are also made of brick or concrete, then the top of the wall must be protected with special ones.

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