Kobeya planting and care in open ground. Technology for growing beautiful climbing kobei
One of the many types of tropical vines, it has unusually beautiful and large flowers. At home perennial, in our conditions it rarely survives the winter, it has to be planted every year. In the tropics, kobeya has nine species; in our country, only two are grown: with purple and white flowers. These two species are most adapted to unfavorable climatic conditions.
The plant has tenacious tendrils that allow it to hold firmly to vertical planes, climb from one support to another. The flowers are shaped like bells and can reach eight centimeters in diameter. As they develop, the color of the flowers changes, which gives them special beauty. Plants are very often used by professional landscape designers For vertical gardening gazebos, verandas, fences, etc.
Flowers can be single or group, grow from the axils of the leaves on long stalks. The fruit is a capsule with a hard skin, opens at the side seams, the seeds are flat and oval. In the conditions of our country, most often they do not fully ripen. For cultivation, you should buy it in specialized flower shops.
An adult plant prefers fertile, loose soil and requires abundant watering. Does not tolerate shade; development is slightly inhibited in partial shade. Young shoots die when frozen, adults can withstand down to -5°C.
Planting seeds
You need to start planting seeds from February to March. The earlier the better. But the climate zone of residence should be taken into account. When planting in open ground, the risk of frost should be minimal. If the weather forecast is unfavorable, then the seedlings must be protected from freezing temperatures.
It is difficult for the seeds to germinate; soaking and stimulation are recommended to increase germination. Kobe seeds are large, there are five pieces in one bag. If you purchase goods from trusted sellers, then there is hope that out of five pieces, four will come up. But practitioners advise to count on about 50%; it is better to sow with a reserve than to regret the pennies saved later. Growing kobeya from seeds can be done in two ways.
Dry seeds
Land can be purchased ( the best option) or prepared independently. To prepare the soil, one part of turf soil is mixed with one part of washed sand. To increase nutritional value, it is recommended to add humus or complex mineral fertilizers.
Very important. The seeds have a very hard seed coat, which damages the first leaves during germination. In order to help shed it, the soil must be strongly compacted after sowing. Such agrotechnical technique will allow the plant to free itself from the seed coat while still in the ground, the cotyledon leaves will not be damaged.
Prepared seeds
Before sowing, the material is soaked in growth stimulants.
You can use any, they all have a positive effect. Experienced flower growers It is recommended to remove the shell yourself. To do this, after swelling, you need to very carefully pry it with a needle and try to remove it. How to properly prepare seeds?
Seeds take a long time to germinate, about three weeks. You need to be prepared for such long periods and not panic prematurely.
How to plant sprouted seeds in pots or cups
- Carefully remove the hatched kobe seeds and place them on a previously prepared and moistened substrate, flat side down, sprout up. Sprinkle about 1.5 cm of soil on top and water again with a sprayer. Compact the soil a little. The seeds of the plant are large, this allows you to immediately plant the plants separately, and in the future there will be no need for thinning and picking.
- Cover the cups or pots with film and place the containers on the windowsill. It is highly desirable that it be on the south side; natural light is very important for kobei.
Slightly grown seedlings with two true leaves need to be transplanted into larger ones (at least three liters) flower pots, in them they can form a powerful root system, and this is very important for increasing survival rate.
At the same stage of growth, plants are hardened. The procedure must be performed without haste. First, take the vines out onto the balcony for several hours in good weather.
Over time, the period of stay outdoors increases. When the weather gets significantly warmer, you can try leaving them overnight. Just be very careful, watch the weather and don’t let the sprouts fall under negative temperatures. Hardening lasts approximately three weeks, thus achieving the expected effect in a plant-friendly manner.
Transferring kobei to open ground
The specific date is determined by the climate zone of residence and actual weather conditions. It is recommended to transfer seedlings when the night temperature does not fall below +5°C. For the middle zone of our country this is the end of May or the beginning of June.
Important. Keeping seedlings in pots for a long time is not good for them. It is more difficult for plants to take root, and the transfer process becomes more complicated.
First you need to decide on a place. It should be sunny and protected from cold winds, especially northern and eastern ones. The soil must be fertile. If the land on the site is not fertile, then you will have to prepare the land yourself for the kobei. You can enter organic fertilizers into existing ones, or you can bring a completely new one under the beds. On heavy clay soils the plant feels very bad, development slows down, and sometimes there may be no flowering. Clay lands will have to be improved. There are several methods.
- First. Stir with river sand in a 1:1 ratio and add organic fertilizers.
- Second. Bring fertile land. Dig out the clay to a depth of forty centimeters, pour new soil into the prepared areas.
Practical advice. Replacement or improvement of the soil should be done in a timely manner. At the time of planting, it should already shrink; this will take at least a month. Otherwise, the soil will shrink faster than the root system grows, small roots will be injured or torn off, which has an extremely Negative influence for the growing season.
Remove the kobeya from the pots along with the soil, making sure that the roots are not damaged. If the soil is difficult to remove, it is recommended to water the plants abundantly in the evening and move the replanting to the morning. Plant kobeya in prepared holes, the depth of which corresponds to the height of the soil in the pots. Sprinkling the stem with new soil is not recommended.
The distance between plants is within one meter; after transplanting, water the plants immediately. At the same time, you need to install supports along which the vine will rise. It can be as ordinary wooden stairs, and decorative supports. If there is concern that night frosts may return, then the plants should be covered. It is better to use non-woven modern lightweight materials for these purposes.
Kobei look very beautiful on various arches. To make it easier for plants to attach to load-bearing structures It is recommended to use a plastic mesh with large cells.
Some gardeners offer interesting way planting kobei. They plant seeds in summer peat tablets. Until mid-autumn they grow a little. Then the plants are put into the cellar and stored until spring at a temperature of +5–8°C. In the spring, when the threat of frost has passed, the plants are taken out to Fresh air, harden, awaken and transplant into open ground. Plants planted in this way bloom much earlier. The only problem is that you need to constantly monitor the condition of the plants in the cellar all winter. They should not outgrow; there should be enough light for the growing season.
Plant care
As already mentioned, the homeland of kobei is the tropics. Hence the rules for caring for vines. She is afraid of two things - hypothermia and lack of moisture. It is necessary to water especially abundantly in the first months after planting in open ground; in the future, the frequency and dose of watering can be reduced. If plants are planted in the shade, and the temperature is insufficient, then the risk of root rot is high. It is very difficult to fight this disease. If the plant does not die, it will not throw away its flower stalks. This means that it will be possible to admire their beauty only at next year on new plants.
The first fertilizing should contain nitrogen. With its help, a powerful root system and leaves are formed. Subsequently, as development progresses, the intensity of nitrogen fertilizing is reduced and eventually stopped completely. Adult plants are fed only with phosphorus and potassium. These nutrients needed for the formation of buds.
The length of the vine can be up to ten meters; if this parameter is not adjusted, it will crawl far up and there it will begin to curl up into a ball. To prevent such phenomena, the plant is pinched. But don’t get too carried away, otherwise the vine will become very low and wide.
Pests and diseases
The biggest problems can be caused by aphids and mites. The fight is on in the usual way, showed itself well liquid soap with fitoverm.
Is it possible to collect seeds?
Possible, but not in all cases climatic zones. We have already mentioned that not all latitudes have a sufficient amount of positive temperatures for the full ripening of seeds. If you live in the south, then try collecting them. To do this, you need to plant the plants in open ground as early as possible to give them enough time to mature. But it should be remembered that even professional agronomists in our country collect seeds with a germination rate of no more than 30%. Now think about whether it’s worth the risk and being left without these next year beautiful plants due to the fact that the seeds were not viable.
Video - Growing Kobei
Carefully remove the hatched seeds from the container with tweezers and place them in a loose earthen substrate for further growth. To grow kobeya from seeds, it is better to use peat pots or tablets, because its root system is very delicate and it is advisable to eliminate further picking, which is necessary when growing in one container.
Future vines that have grown to two or three leaves should be placed in a large container, which will help develop a powerful root system. In this case, the option with peat pots or tablets, which are placed in the soil mixture along with the plant, will be appreciated. If the kobeya sprouted in other containers, then it should be moved by transshipment, watering the soil well before doing this. You can start feeding seedlings immediately after the first shoots hatch.
By the time of transplantation into open ground, the vine can reach a meter in length. You should immediately take care of the support, otherwise its tenacious antennae will find it at their own discretion. If you have to transport the plant to the planting site, then it is better to provide it with strings, tying them to something. Then for transportation you can easily twist the vine together with the rope, which will prevent mechanical damage.
Caring for kobei seedlings
Plant kobeya grown from seeds on permanent place It should be pre-hardened no earlier than the beginning of June, when the threat of frost has completely passed. To do this, you need to dig holes, the depth of which is slightly greater than the height of the container with the plant, and fill them by a third with loose fertile soil. Water the soil in the flowerpot with plenty of water, wait until it is completely absorbed and carefully remove the earthen ball with roots. Place it in the hole, fill the sides with soil and water. The distance between planted plants should not be less than half a meter.
Kobeya became one of three new for me, the types of vines that I first grew last gardening season (2011). And although two other vines ("Solar Serenade", hyacinth beans or) also struck me with their beauty, the winner in the Beauty Contest among beginners was kobeya. It was the kobeya that left its liana rivals far behind and conquered me unconditionally!
I will share with the readers of the site my experience and important conclusions that I made when growing kobei. I hope that my advice will help other gardeners not to make annoying mistakes when growing kobeya from seeds in order to admire its wonderful flowering for a long time.
Growing and propagating kobei
Kobea (Cobaea) is a genus of tall, climbing or clinging, beautifully flowering shrub plants, which includes 9 species native to the American tropics.
With the availability of seeds for sale, more and more Russian gardeners are growing tropical kobeya climbing(Cobaea scandens) in two varieties - with purple and white flowers.
But the heat-loving kobeya cannot stand the cold! Therefore, in Russia, where the climate is far from tropical, perennial climbing kobeya is more often used as. Although, if it is possible to keep a container with the roots of the plant in a cool place in winter, kobeya can be grown as a perennial plant.
It is difficult to find another vine that is as decorative and grows quickly as kobea.
Numerous kobei stems reach 4-6 meters in length, and the lacy compound pinnate leaves covering them create an elegant appearance. The strong, tenacious tendrils of kobei help the plant to climb to great heights and attach to any supported surface.
Large kobei flowers (up to 8 cm in diameter) are very beautiful, bell-shaped, with long stamens and pistil protruding outward. At first, the color of the opening flowers is green, and then the kobei flowers change color - they become purple or white, depending on the variety.
Growing kobeya is within the power of most gardeners, but certain skills are required subject to the conditions of agricultural technology.
Kobeya prefers a sunny location, although it can tolerate some partial shade.
She prefers fertile, well-fertilized garden soils.
Since kobeya is susceptible to attacks (and), it is necessary to regularly inspect the vine and provide timely assistance when pests appear.
Kobeya grows well with sufficient soil moisture, but if there is excessive moisture, the plant may develop root rot.
Kobeya propagates by seeds or vegetatively - by rooting cuttings if the mother plants were preserved in winter.
My experience of sowing kobei
In order to protect other gardeners from repeating my mistakes made when sowing kobeya seeds, first I’ll tell you how I didn’t get kobeya...
I sowed kobeya for the first time about five years ago. I sowed it in early April with dry seeds.
Germinating kobei seeds then became a real challenge - both for them and for me. The kobei sprouts that emerged from the ground could not get rid of the seed coat on their own. And then I had to manually help the seeds release (and considering that I had previously been involved in obstetrics and obstetrics about 40 years ago, and that too with a neighbor’s cat, I had not developed the necessary skills...). As a result, not all of the kobei seedlings were destined to see the light of day: out of five seedlings, only one “misunderstanding” barely survived...
I brought this plant into the garden in June, approximately at the end of the first decade. Gradually, my seedling began to straighten, branch and grow stronger. And by the end of August it was already a nice vine of normal size.
But I never saw flowers on my first kobe. Because the very first autumn frost, which occurred in early September, put an end to this story. After all, tropical kobeya is very thermophilic!
In the previous gardening season, I decided to plant kobeya near the arch, where I had previously grown not very successful clematis. It itself did not cling to the support provided, so I had to constantly guide and secure the growing shoots of clematis to the mesh cells - this really bothered me. I had to part with such a troublesome clematis...
While new clematis - candidates for planting near the arch - are growing up in the school, my arch should not be empty. And last year I decided to plant a purple kobeya next to the arch.
I bought two packets of kobe seeds - just to be sure to grow them! Each bag contained 5 large seeds.
I decided to sow 6 seeds. On the eve of sowing, in the evening I soaked the kobe seeds in a solution (I prefer to use HB-1 or Epin).
Photo: kobe seeds; sowing kobei in foil sleeves
I sowed the kobe seeds on March 16 (many gardeners in the middle zone were convinced that mid-March is a very good time for sowing kobeya).
In order not to injure the roots of the kobe seedlings by picking, each seed was placed in. I made these sleeves from foil (I wrapped 2-3 layers of foil around a plastic medicine jar). The use of these sleeves eliminated the slightest damage to the root system, which helped to avoid growth retardation in this regard. Sprinkle the seeds with soil on top, in a layer of 1-1.5 cm.
The first kobeya shoots appeared on March 24 (on the 8th day after sowing). First, three sprouts sprouted, and a little later two more - in total, from six seeds there were 5 seedlings.
It was possible to sum up the first results: this time, after soaking the seeds, there was no suffering during their germination, as with the first unsuccessful sowing of kobeya. Now each sprout has freely emerged to the surface of the soil without seed coats.
Transplanting and hardening off kobe seedlings
I transplanted the kobei seedlings from cartridges into cups on March 28th. First, I watered the seedlings generously, and then carefully unfolded the foil and removed the sprout with an undisturbed lump of earth. The roots of the seedlings were not damaged at all with this method of germination and replanting!
In the photo: kobei seedlings in foil sleeves; the kobei seedling is removed from the foil; Kobe seedlings are placed in cups.
As a result, all five transplanted kobei seedlings underwent transplantation without problems. Of these, I decided to keep three plants for myself, and gave two to a friend.
I gave the kobei seedlings a couple of days to adapt after transplantation, and then sent them to glazed loggia- harden up!
Caring for kobe seedlings
The kobei seedlings on the loggia began to grow together. I watered them the same way as the rest of the seedlings.
I fed the developing kobe 2 times. I didn’t fertilize any more - I was afraid that the kobeya would grow too long shoots, which would then be problematic to transport to the garden.
As the growing Kobei developed, thin brown antennae began to appear, branched at the ends - these turned out to be such “Velcro” that one could not pass them by :) They tried to cling to clothes... But then the hooked antennae were easy to remove without damaging them. this.
At the beginning of April, kobe seedlings were transplanted from plastic cups into 3-4 liter containers plastic pots. This was necessary to do so that the young plants could develop a powerful root system, and the shoots of the plant were well formed and strong by the time they were transplanted into the flower garden. In the literature, I came across recommendations to plant kobeya even in a bucket, but I decided to limit myself to large pots.
In the spacious container, my kobei began to grow actively. I had to tie the shoots of the seedlings with thin nylon cords to the clotheslines on the loggia :)
To provide support for kobe seedlings, it is recommended to use thin sticks. But I didn’t have them at that time. And as it turned out later, cords or ropes are even more convenient support than a long stick. Because when transporting kobei seedlings to the dacha, the entire vine along with the cord is carefully rolled up into a ring and delivered to the garden without damage.
Planting kobei seedlings in open ground
I planted kobei seedlings in the garden in early June.
I prepared the planting holes in advance, filling them with fertile soil.
By the time of planting in open ground, my kobei vines had reached a height of about a meter.
Before planting, I watered the plants in pots generously, then removed a lump of earth from the pots, while carefully holding the coiled vine.
It is good if you have someone to help you during this operation. I had an assistant, but I kept saying: “Quietly, quietly! I myself!” :)))
The extracted lump of earth with the root system of the kobei was lowered into a hole, buried, and watered.
Then they very carefully freed the vine from the rope (or rather, the auxiliary cord was separated from the vine). In order not to break or damage the thin tendrils of the kobei seedlings, I cut the cord in several places - thus, it was very easy to remove its pieces.
Then it was quick and easy to lift the vines freed from the cord onto the arch.
I have been sent along the arch plastic mesh with large cells so that the vine has reliable support.
In the photo: kobei liana develops; kobeya braided the arch
So my kobei seedlings were planted in the garden, and then they received careful care.
To make the kobeya gain green mass faster, I did it every week. I alternated organic fertilizers with mineral supplements(infusion of blood meal and Kemira).
And one more thing - the rapidly developing kobe needs regular watering, especially good watering required!
With such care, the kobei vines grew “by leaps and bounds,” very quickly entwining the arch.
Kobea flowering
In July, I suddenly noticed that all the kobei shoots were covered with unusual new growths turning into buds :)
And then these wonderful “” of unusual greenish color with purple shading began to appear from the buds!
In the photo: kobeya is preparing to bloom; kobea bud; young kobei flower changes color
Even if these greenish kobei flowers did not change color later, I would still love them like that! :) But the young flowers changed dramatically, turning into exquisite purple bells!
The efforts were not in vain - my kobeya grew and bloomed successfully. The two resulting fruits with seeds were also a real gift for me. They are so cute, with a dashingly curled mustache!
In the photo: the formation of a kobei fruit; kobe fruit with green seeds
Of course, the seeds formed by the kobei did not have time to ripen under the conditions of my garden. But still, I received satisfaction from the fact that the long journey of the plant “from seed to seed” was completed successfully by my kobeya!
As a result successful growing kobei, I made several conclusions, including the use of vines in landscape design.
Considering that at the end of August and beginning of September they almost finish flowering, kobeya has become not just a worthy temporary replacement for clematis, but, perhaps, the permanent owner of my arch!
In the photo: kobeya blooms on an arch; adult kobei flower
Unfortunately, I don't have a suitable cool place where I could store the kobea roots until the next gardening season...
Lyudmila Rezhnova (Dubna, Moscow region)
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Cobaea is a perennial climbing semi-shrub plant, cultivated as an annual. It is a representative of the Sinyukhov family. The Jesuit monk-naturalist Barnabas Cobo lived for many years in Mexico and Peru (the birthplace of the kobei), and it was in his honor that the vine was named. IN natural environment Kobeya grows in the tropics and subtropics of South and North America. Cultivated since 1787. The vine is popularly called monastery bells and Mexican ivy.
Botanical description
In the natural environment, there are 9 species of cobaea, but only one is cultivated - the climbing or tenacious, creeping cobaea (Cobaea scandens). The root system of the plant is powerful, well branched, has numerous thin fibrous roots, due to which the growth rate of the vine is rapid. Kobeya reaches a length of more than 6 m. The leaves are whole, oval shape, arranged oppositely, some young leaves can be cut into 3 lobes with sharp tips.
Numerous tendrils located throughout the stem help the vine to cling to supports and climb upward. Large flowers are bell-shaped, reach a diameter of 8 cm, stretch out on long stalks in the axils of the leaves, singly or in groups of 2-3. The corollas are colored pink, lilac, and purple. Curled stamens grow from the center of the corolla, giving the flowers originality. Flowering begins in June and lasts until the first frost. The fruits are a leathery capsule that opens at the side seams. The seeds are large, flat, oval in shape.
White cobea (Cobea scandens alba) is a subspecies of tenacious cobea with snow-white flowers.
Growing kobeya from seeds at home
Possibly seed and vegetative (cuttings). In our latitudes, it is not advisable to sow seeds in open ground; it is necessary to grow seedlings. Stock a significant amount seed material, since seed germination is about 30%.
When to sow kobeya for seedlings
Start sowing kobei for seedlings from late February to mid-March.
- The seeds should be soaked in a growth stimulant solution for several hours.
- It is better to plant one seed at a time in an individual cup.
- A universal substrate for seedlings is suitable.
- Place the seeds flat side down, cover with a 1.5 cm layer of soil and spray with a spray bottle.
- Expect the emergence of seedlings in 2-3 weeks.
The video will tell you how to grow kobe seedlings at home:
To make seeds germinate faster:
Covered with a dense shell. To get seedlings faster, you should get rid of it or pre-germinate the seeds.
- To remove the shell, spread the seeds across the bottom of a wide plastic container so that they do not touch each other. Pour some warm water, cover with a lid. When the crust has softened to the state of mucus, carefully remove mechanically the part that easily peels off. You can completely get rid of the peel in 2-3 days.
- In order for the seeds to hatch, it is necessary to fold ordinary paper in several layers. toilet paper, moisten generously warm water and spread the kobei seeds over the surface, avoiding the seeds touching each other. Place the paper with seeds in a horizontal position in a transparent bag and keep under bright light. Germination will take about 2 weeks. Don’t be alarmed if the seeds become moldy - rinse them lightly with warm water, replace the paper and bag with new ones.
Carry out further sowing in the same way as described above.
Transshipment of seedlings and hardening
- In order for the seedlings to have the opportunity to develop their root system well, once 2 true leaves appear, they should be transferred with a lump of earth into separate 3-liter pots.
- Install a metal or plastic ladder to provide enough light for the plants.
- In this form, begin hardening: take the vine to a balcony or loggia, where the kobeya should spend about 3 weeks before planting in open ground.
How to transfer kobe seedlings, look at the video:
When and how to plant kobe seedlings in the ground
Do not overexpose the vine in the pot. When the threat of frost has passed and the night temperature is +5º C, you can plant it in open ground (late May-early June). If you are afraid of the return of cold weather, after planting you can cover the kobeya with non-woven material for a while.
Keep a distance of 0.5-1 m between plantings. Dig planting holes slightly larger than the size of the earthen ball. Handle the vine, add soil, compact it a little, and water it generously. Immediately install a support for the vine - an arch, a fence.
It is better to choose an area for planting with good lighting; light shading is allowed. You need a secluded place without strong winds. The soil is required to be fertile and loose. Planting holes can be filled with a mixture of humus, turf land, peat.
Video about the further growth of kobei in the ground:
Propagation of kobei by cuttings
Unfortunately, in our climatic conditions, kobe seeds do not have time to ripen. You should purchase them annually from flower shops. In order to propagate kobeya by cuttings in the spring, try saving the vine growing in your garden until spring. To do this, at the beginning of October, cut off the shoots, carefully dig up the bush, and transfer it to a box or large flowerpot. The plant must be stored in a room with an air temperature no higher than 12º C - in the basement, cellar.
To prevent the earthen ball from drying out, water it a little every 3-4 weeks. From the end of February, move the plant to a warm, bright room and gradually increase watering. Cut and root cuttings from young shoots, mother plant return to open ground.
- Cut off the apical shoots 10-12 cm long and root in damp sand, after pre-treating them with a growth stimulator.
- For creating greenhouse effect the cuttings are covered or plastic cups, cans, or bags.
- It is necessary to ventilate daily, moisten moderately to avoid rot.
- High air temperatures will be destructive; 22-24°C is enough.
- When young shoots appear, you can gradually accustom the plants to the air by removing the shelter.
- Before planting in the ground, rooted seedlings are hardened off in shady place garden, and with the onset of warmth at the end of May they are planted in the ground.
How to care for kobeya in the garden
Watering and loosening the soil
Water regularly, more abundantly in dry weather. The soil should be constantly slightly moist, but be careful with watering, especially if the vine grows in the shade - excess moisture leads to root rot.
Regularly loosen the soil and remove weeds.
Top dressing
The first feeding must be done in the first days of life - with the appearance of 2 leaves, add humate. After planting in open ground, fertilize every 7 days, alternating mineral fertilizers with organic matter. Before buds begin to form, add more nitrogen, and then phosphorus and potassium.
Diseases and pests
Spider mites or aphids can settle on the vine. It is necessary to spray with a solution of green potassium soap; pet anti-flea shampoo will do. To completely get rid of pests, treat with an insecticide.
Kobeya in landscape design photo
Kobeya is decorative liana her homeland is South America. A climbing subshrub in the warm, humid climate of the subtropics, it grows in forests as a perennial plant. Kobeya was cultivated at the end of the 13th century. In landscape design, it is used as an element in vertical gardening. With the help of lianas they design:
- hedges;
- arches;
- balconies;
- gazebos.
In the rather harsh climate of our country, the ornamental vine is grown as an annual. In nature, there are nine varieties of plants belonging to the genus Kobei. Flower growers use one type of climbing kobei. It has a number of other names:
- creeping kobeya;
- Mexican ivy;
- monastery bells.
Kobeya is a climbing shrub with a powerful, branched root system in the form of thin fibrous roots. The liana can grow more than six meters per season.
The stem is branched, angular, covered beautiful leaves complex-pinnate, arranged alternately. Each shoot ends with tendrils; these are modified leaves; it is with their help that the vine is able to rise to great heights on any basis.
Thanks to the nutrition provided by the powerful root, the plant develops very quickly. Behind short period time, the vine entwines the vertical area big size, which is very important in landscape design when decorative design gardens, personal plots.
The leaf axils are the places where the flower stalks are located. Quite long (20 cm). The flowers are large and fragrant. The shape is bell-shaped. The diameter is about 8 cm. The pistil and stamens protrude strongly from behind the petals. This makes the flowers elegant and unique. Bell-shaped flowers are arranged singly or in pairs.
Flowering is long lasting. Lasts until the first frost. The first flowers open in July. By the end of the season, fruits are formed from them. The shape of the fruit resembles a box. The seeds are flat, oval, large. When the flowers bloom they are greenish-cream and smell musky. Later, a change in color and smell occurs. The color becomes either white or purple. Depends on the variety. They smell like honey.
In nature South America, there are nine species. Flower growers use only one for breeding. A species that has found application is the climbing kobei. Reproduces:
- Seeds through seedlings;
- Cuttings (rarely).
Liana is a tropical plant that loves warmth and moisture. The climate in most regions of Russia is harsh for it; it cannot winter; it is grown traditionally as an annual crop.
IN middle lane at proper care During the summer season, the vine grows well in its vegetative mass. It manages to bloom. At seedling method growing begins to bloom in July, blooms until frost. Fruits are formed, but seeds rarely ripen.
In southern regions with a subtropical climate, the vine can be cultivated as a perennial. Flowering of perennial kobeya begins in April. Gardeners love kobeya for its high decorative value. During the period of active growth, it is short term capable of braiding any support:
- Cone.
- Pergola.
- Arch.
- Column.
- Grid.
A decorative support, covered with bright green lacy foliage and, at the end of summer, bell-shaped flowers of different shades, becomes a real decoration of the garden from June until frost.
The violet kobeya variety is ideal for vertical gardening. The liana grows up to 4 meters per season. It gives a lot of shoots. It blooms with beautiful, large, bell-shaped flowers.
The flowers can be different shades of purple, ranging from light purple to dark purple. Blooms profusely when grown in sunny areas with soil dug deeply before planting.
During the summer, for full growth and flowering, the liana requires:
- regular watering;
- feeding;
- topping;
- loosening.
A spectacular annual climbing plant. By the end of summer, the vine reaches a height of 4 meters. It blooms with large white flowers, the diameter of which is almost 8 centimeters. It is recommended to plant along the walls of the gazebo, near the fence, along the balconies.
The plant produces shoots that, clinging to the support with their tendrils, quickly grow and delight the eye with a waterfall of leaves of a beautiful emerald green color. The shape of the inflorescences is very similar to large bells. At the beginning of flowering they are pale green, gradually changing color and becoming bright white.
Preference is given to areas brightly lit by the sun. With fertile, loose soils. It is recommended to propagate by seeds. To be received at the end of May or the first ten days of June strong seedlings Sowing seeds should be done in February.
The Tsar Bell variety is an annual climbing vine. Grows up to 3 meters in height. The leaves are pinnate with a wrinkled surface. At the end of the shoot there are tendrils that attach the plant to the support.
It blooms with large white flowers (6-8 cm), the shape resembles a large bell. Flowering continues from early July until the first frost.
Tsar Bell is an ideal plant for vertical gardening. Recommended to use for decoration:
- facades of houses;
- verandas;
- gazebos;
- trellis.
Sowing is recommended to be done in February. Replant into the ground after warm weather with above-zero night temperatures sets in. Usually this is the end of May, beginning of June. You can get strong in abundance flowering plant when planting seedlings in July.
Kobei variety Amazon, blooms beautiful purple flowers shaped like bells, at first they are light green and gradually turn purple.
The plant produces many shoots that quickly reach a length of 4 meters.
At the ends of the shoots there are mustaches. Amazon liana grows well in fertile soil. Loves watering, fertilizing, sunlight.
In greenhouse conditions it can be grown as a perennial crop.
To grow kobeya you need seeds and knowledge certain rules agricultural technology, knowing which even a beginner can cope and independently grow strong good seedlings one-year-old kobei.
When planning a planting site, consider what the vine likes:
- Fertile, fertilized soil;
- deeply dug soil;
- absence of drafts;
- Sun.
When to plant seedlings
In our climate, with frequent spring frosts, you can achieve flowering of kobei if you think about seedlings in time. This must be done in February. The best time The period for sowing is considered to be from the end of February to mid-March.
Preparing soil and seeds
Kobe seeds are quite large, flat, and have a round shape. You can sow dry, but soaked seeds germinate faster. You will need:
- Saucer;
- Plastic bag;
- Seeds;
- Toilet paper;
- Epin (or any other growth stimulant).
Roll up toilet paper in several layers, soak it in a growth stimulator, and place it on a saucer. Place the seeds on toilet paper so that they do not touch each other. Place the saucer inside a plastic bag. Tie the bag and place it in a warm, lit place.
Until the seeds hatch, they must be periodically rinsed in running water, change toilet paper, make sure that mold does not appear on the seeds. If the wait for pecking is prolonged, you can try to help - take a needle and prick each seed.
To obtain strong seedlings, you need good soil and a separate container for each plant. When sown in individual containers, kobeya suffers less during transplantation. You should buy universal or special flower soil at a flower shop.
Fill containers with soil. Water. Carefully place the sprouted seeds in the middle of each pot. Cover with a layer of soil of at least 1.5 cm. At an air temperature of 20, sprouts will appear after 2-3 weeks.
Seedlings grow better and stretch less if the ambient temperature is not higher than 16 C. An important role is played by good lighting. The more light, the stronger and healthier the plant. As soon as the sprouts appear, place supports in the pots. The young vine will cling to it. Instead of rigid supports, you can use twine, securing it at the top.
Basic care before transplanting into open ground:
- Watering;
- spraying with warm water;
- shortening long lashes.
If the indoor air is too dry, young plants may suffer from spider mites. Kobeya grows quickly, so that the vines do not intertwine with each other, you need to place pots with seedlings so that there is a large gap between them.
Required for replanting a pot bigger size, as soon as the capacity becomes small for the root system. Transshipment is necessary for good seedling growth.
Only when the threat of night frosts has passed should the kobea be planted in a permanent place in the garden. Even a small minus can destroy a fragile seedling. It is most reliable to carry out transplantation work in early June.
When planting several vines, dig holes at a distance of at least 0.5 meters. For good plant growth, prepare a dressing for planting holes, mix:
- Peat;
- Humus;
- River sand;
- Garden soil.
It would be nice if you add a little double superphosphate to the pit. This will increase soil fertility. Before transshipment, do not forget to water the plant. Carefully remove it from the container, place it in the planting hole, cover it with soil, compact it tightly and fill it with water. To retain moisture, mulch the soil with dry grass.
In summer, kobeya needs to be watered in a timely manner. The plant is subtropical and needs moisture. It is necessary to water moderately, avoiding stagnation of moisture. Once two weeks after planting, feed with nitrogen fertilizers; further feeding should be done only with flower fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen. You can use infusions made from ash, mullein, and herbs.
In dry, hot weather, it is necessary to irrigate the vine. If this is not done, the plant will develop spider mite. Flowering continues until frost. To prevent the plant from losing its decorative appearance, remove faded and dried flowers regularly.
The liana constantly throws out new shoots. During the summer, you will have to tie them to a support so that they do not entangle other plants growing nearby. It was noted that on acidic soils the flowers have a red tint, and on soils with low level acidity flowers are painted in blue tones.
Most often, with excessive watering or in damp summers, kobeya is affected by root rot. A symptom of the disease will be the presence of dark spots on sheet plates. Loosening the soil is the main prevention of the disease. If diseased plants appear, they must be removed as quickly as possible by digging them up along with the roots.
You shouldn’t expect to get your kobe seeds in the fall. In the conditions of the Russian climate, this is an impossible task. The seeds do not have time to ripen. You should only rely on purchased seeds. Moreover, their germination rate, even among well-known companies, is not high, no more than 30%.
Is it possible to preserve kobeya in winter?
A not lazy gardener with a cellar can grow kobeya as a perennial crop. After October 10, before night frosts hit, all stems must be cut off.
Dig up the plant with its roots, place it in a container and lower it into the cellar. In winter, it is necessary to regularly check the soil moisture and, if necessary, moisten it moderately.
At the beginning of March, bring the container out into the light and increase watering. When the ground warms up, plant it in a permanent place and water it well. Care in the same way as when planting seedlings.
Kobeya. Sowing and diving: video
Growing and caring for kobeya cannot be called easy, but the work spent on it will not be in vain. All summer beautiful plant will please the eye with a cascade beautiful flowers and an abundance of greenery.