Is it possible to attach drywall to wooden blocks? How to attach drywall to wood blocks

Despite the fact that building materials such as plasterboard began to be used everywhere quite recently, it was patented back in the 19th century in America. His first sheets were most similar to Napoleon cake - 10 sheets of paper, glued thin layer gypsum It was invented by the owner of a paper mill.

This “paper” has gained wide popularity these days.

A little about drywall

Modern drywall is complex composite material, consisting of cardboard, gypsum and various additives that give it additional qualities, such as:

Increased sound insulation.
Fire safety.

Drywall was once called “dry plaster,” but the name did not stick.

It is used for “dry” finishing of the room. That is, when using drywall, there is several times less dirt than with traditional repair work Oh.

Drywall is available in 3 versions:

Standard, manufactured without additional additives.

Note!
Standard plasterboard panels, depending on thickness, are divided into ceiling and wall.

Moisture resistant;
Fire resistant.

IN last years KNAUF, one of the main manufacturers of plasterboard, has released Superpol sheets, which are designed for leveling floor coverings. They have increased strength.

Important!
Drywall is ideal for finishing residential premises, as it is environmentally friendly and does not emit toxic substances when heated.
Has acidity close to acidity human skin and naturally regulates the microclimate in the room.

Modern repair technology cannot do without it. It is thanks to plasterboard that it is possible to build multi-level structures, creating modern design premises.

How to install drywall

Installation of drywall is carried out using frame and frameless methods.

Frameless— sheets of drywall are attached directly to the walls using special glue.

Frame— a frame for plasterboard is mounted from galvanized metal profiles of a certain shape or wooden slats, and the sheets are secured to it with self-tapping screws.

Each method of attaching drywall has its strengths and weaknesses.

Frameless allows you to save room space, but its installation requires smooth wall coverings and installation work takes a long time due to the fact that you need to wait until the glue hardens before further work.
The frame mount makes it easy to install thermal insulation and communications, but you have to install sound insulation, and the size of the room is hidden, albeit slightly.

Important!
With the frame installation method, stripping walls for electrical wiring can be avoided. That is, there will be practically no dust during work.

Drywall not only levels walls. When remodeling a room, gypsum plasterboard partitions are the best option. They are lightweight, easy to use and can be covered with anything.

Wooden base of plasterboard partitions

Those who, after installing partitions, want to live in comfort, with good sound insulation, and those for whom one of the main parameters is the environmental safety of the room, decide to make a drywall frame from wood.

In order to extend the life of the structure, the choice of wooden frame parts should be approached with the utmost seriousness.

Transverse cut dimensions of selected parts for vertical racks should not be smaller in cross-section than 40x70 mm, horizontal - 30x50 mm.
All wooden slats are necessarily impregnated with an antiseptic - in order to protect against insects, and with a mixture that gives the structure fire safety.

Important!
This procedure is a necessity that will help you save money on repairs in the future.

The frame is made from coniferous trees. The humidity of wooden parts should not exceed 15%.

For your information!
Design requirements – first group for fire resistance.

Tools for work

In order to complete the frame manufacturing work, you need to have the following tools on hand:

Drill.
Saw or hacksaw.

Screwdriver.
Screwdriver.
Level.
Mounting dowels.
Self-tapping screws for wood.
Metal corners.

Making a partition in an apartment

To make wooden frame for drywall, you must first prepare an accurate drawing, which will indicate the locations of all doorways.

When calculating the rigidity of a structure, it is necessary to take into account the number of horizontal elements.
Counting required amount sheets of drywall.
The partition body is assembled. Installation begins with the support beams of the harness. Fastening to the floor and ceiling is done with self-tapping screws and dowels.

Vertical struts are installed.
Horizontal support rails are fixed between the vertical posts.

The cross-section of the timber of these slats is allowed to be smaller in size than that of the racks, but still not less than 30x50 mm.

Important!
When stitching, sheets of drywall must be offset relative to each other on its opposite walls.

Insulation and possibly insulated electrical wiring are installed on the partition mounted on one side.
Sheathing begins on the side where the insulation is attached.

Installation of insulation is necessary to reduce the sound permeability of the structure.

Mineral fiber mats and polystyrene foam are used as insulation. various densities or polystyrene foam. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, and the decision which insulation to use depends on the purpose of the room.

Note!
Insulating materials made of mineral wool, such as basalt or dolomite fiber, provide additional protection of the structure from moisture and reduce the fire hazard of the room.

The length of the metal dowels for drywall, with which the insulation is secured, must be at least 25-30 mm. Otherwise, the design will be unreliable and short-lived.

Wooden frame for wall cladding

It is advisable to install plasterboard on a wooden frame when covering walls if their height is more than three meters or the walls have significant roughness and poor-quality plaster coating.

The wall is marked for the frame.
Dangerous areas with weak plaster and unevenness are identified.
The sheathing is installed in accordance with the measurements taken, starting with a horizontal beam, which is fixed to the floor.

Vertical slats are mounted to the horizontal beam with a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the sheathing. The step between them is taken to be 600 mm.
After the verticality of the structure has been checked with a plumb line (level), a second horizontal beam is fixed to the ceiling, to which vertical slats are attached.
Alignment of the structure uneven floor under a horizontal beam is carried out using a lining of chipboard scraps or wood left over from the slats.

Adviсe:

In order not to make cuts in the drywall when making sheathing near door or window openings the vertical slats are moved.

During subsequent sheathing with sheets, there should be no joints above window or door openings.

Installing drywall on a wooden frame with your own hands is not at all difficult, even without a partner. Even easier, if the floors are level, the installation process will not be difficult.

Partitions made of plasterboard are often used for urgent redevelopment of an apartment or house, introducing something new and unusual into their design or interior. For this, they have all the advantages: their design and installation with your own hands is simple, and even an inexperienced, novice home craftsman can handle this technology. They are cheap to install and after final finishing they cannot be distinguished from the main walls of the apartment.

Such partitions also have disadvantages. But they can be dealt with. For example, insufficient mechanical strength partitions can be significantly increased if you use gypsum fiber sheets instead of conventional plasterboard or strengthen the structure by lining the frame with several layers of plasterboard. And in wet rooms, waterproof plasterboard is used when constructing partitions.

But no matter what kind of partition you decide to build in your apartment, remember that the introduction of a new element into the layout must be agreed upon with the housing inspection authorities.

Plasterboard partitions, like plasterboard cladding walls are usually made on a wooden or metal frame. The metal frame is more reliable, more technologically advanced, and with its use it is possible to create complex structures, which are more difficult to do on a wooden frame. But, in turn, work with wooden structure more familiar and it will cost less.

Coniferous lumber is used for the frame of the partition. All its elements must be treated with special fire and bioprotective impregnations before installation.

The material for the frame is chosen based on the parameters of the future partition: the higher and longer it is, the larger the cross-section of the frame elements should be. For a partition frame measuring 2.5 x (4-5) m, you can take bars with a cross section of 60 x 80 mm.

The frame of the partition consists of strapping, racks, and horizontal jumpers, usually installed at the joints of drywall sheets. The design can be supplemented with more powerful racks and lintels in doorways, sheathing, etc. To improve soundproofing properties, and in country houses- and for thermal protection, the frame during the manufacturing process of the partition is filled with sound and heat-insulating materials. In temporary residences, the insulation is additionally protected with moisture- and vapor-protective films.

Installation of partition frames.

This work begins with the installation of the harness. The strapping bars are attached to the floor, ceiling and walls. If the floors are wooden, the task is simplified, since ordinary nails are enough to fasten the bars. With a beam thickness of 60 mm, nails 100 mm long are sufficient. If the walls are concrete or brick plastered, the strapping is secured with dowels and nails to the wall and floor and with anchors to the ceiling.

Also read on the topic: You should start work with a ceiling beam. Having marked the boundaries of the partition on the ceiling, the beam is screwed or nailed to the ceiling, after which the location of the lower beam of the trim is marked. This is done using a plumb line, a rule with a level, or more modern tools, for example, a laser level.

When using traditional tools, at least three marks must be made along the length of the partition - at each wall and in the middle. When the marks are made, they are attached to the floor bottom beam and once again check the correctness of its location relative to the upper beam. After this, vertical strapping bars are installed on the walls, connecting the floor and ceiling bars.

Since the strapping bears the main load from the future partition, it must be fastened as securely as possible - with a fastening step of no more than 40 cm. But before fastening the beam, you need to make sure of the strength of the walls themselves. If the walls are made of not very durable materials ( cellular concrete, gypsum), dowels of maximum sizes are required and it may be necessary to replace the dowel-nails with specialized dowels that are designed for use with specific building materials. As a last resort, you can get by with wooden plugs, which are driven into the prepared holes and then screws are screwed into them. This method is old, one might say ancient, but proven.

Another way to attach strapping-using direct hangers used in the installation of metal frames. If the walls are strong enough and smooth (for example, concrete), then this is the most convenient and quick way timber fastenings.

Once the frame of the structure is in place and checked for verticality, it is time to install the racks. For them, a beam of the same cross-section is used as for tying the frame.

The racks are usually placed in increments of 60 cm. With this increment, each sheet of drywall (with standard width sheet 120 cm) is mounted on three racks.

There are several ways to mount racks. The simplest one is with the help of sawn wooden blocks, which are attached with screws to the vertical post itself and to the harness. More reliable way- attach the stand metal corners, which can be easily made from direct hangers or purchased ready-made.

Horizontal lintels are also cut out from the same timber. They are fastened by passing a self-tapping screw directly through the vertical posts on one and the other side of the jumper. You can strengthen the connections with metal corners.

If the partition is provided doorway, then it is framed with additional racks and a horizontal lintel. They are made from timber of the same cross-section as the entire frame, or slightly larger. The bottom of the door frame is formed either by a frame frame, or, if there is no need for a threshold, part of it in the opening is carefully cut out, and the edges are additionally secured with dowel nails.

It is quite difficult to lay utility lines in a partition of this type. If you still need to lay electrical wiring in it, for example, then you have to drill holes in the racks required diameter. It is advisable to remember that the cable is laid for safety in pipes - rigid or corrugated, or in tin boxes.

Facing partitions.

When the frame is ready, you can start covering it with plasterboard. The sheets are secured using wide-headed screws. It is first necessary to develop a cladding scheme in which the sheets will have to be cut as little as possible.

It is better to cut the sheets in such a way that they do not meet above window and door openings - this can lead to chipping of the edges of the sheets. Where this cannot be avoided, an additional bar is placed at the joint, to which the edges of the sheets are attached.

DIY insulation installation

If the partition is supposed to use heat and sound insulation, then its installation begins after the partition is lined with plasterboard on one side.

Currently the market offers a lot insulating materials.

Both foam and mineral wool materials are suitable.

The chosen spacing when installing the studs matches the standard width of many insulating materials, which makes work easier.

It is better to glue rigid panels to the inside already installed drywall. If small cavities remain between the slabs, they can be filled with mineral wool. The combination of foam and mineral wool materials gives a good soundproofing effect.

When covering the partition with plasterboard on the second side, it must be remembered that in order to avoid cracking of the frame posts when screwing in at the joints large quantity screws, the joints of the sheets must be separated from the joints of the already installed cladding, shifting them one step to the right or left.

It must also be remembered that between the top edge of the sheet and the ceiling there should be a gap of approximately 3-4 mm, which will protect the top edge from chipping. This gap is subsequently closed with a ceiling plinth.

Sheathing of the frame must be done sequentially from one edge. The screws must be screwed into the frame posts perpendicular to the surface of the sheathing.

This partition is the simplest, but despite this it is quite durable and has good soundproofing properties. Its disadvantage is its small thickness, which makes it difficult to lay communications inside the partition.

DIY extended partitions.

The design of partitions on a double wooden frame makes it possible to solve the problem of laying utility lines inside the partition and even installing water heating batteries in them. The width of such partitions is much greater than those discussed above.

To install an extended partition, two trims are installed, spaced apart at a distance sufficient to accommodate communications. All operations when installing the frame are performed in exactly the same way as in the first case. First, determine the distance by which the two frames will be spaced from each other, then install the strapping bars and vertical posts.

After one side of the partition is lined, all necessary communications are laid inside it in pipes or special boxes made of galvanized steel sheet or plastic. It is also possible to install a partition and radiators inside the partition, although this will require additional work. The batteries are installed closer to one of the sides, and ventilation grilles are mounted in the drywall opposite them.

It should be remembered that in places where pipes are installed hot water Styrofoam and foam rubber cannot be used as insulating material. They are used as thermal insulation in these places. mineral wool.

There is a way to increase the internal volume of the partition without installing a double frame. In this option, the framing frame is installed alone, but the vertical posts are attached to the side edges of the framing bars, as a result of which the partition becomes wider. In this case, the installation of the racks to the frame is also simplified - no transition bars or corners are needed. To improve sound insulation, rubber or foam pads are placed between the posts and trim bars.

In addition to options with single-layer hypocardboard cladding, there are designs in which sheets are laid in two layers on each side of the partition. In this case, the drywall is attached to the bars in such a way that top sheet overlapped the joint of the bottom layer of sheets.

Having finished installing the plasterboard sheets, the seams at the joints of the sheets and the screw heads are puttied, after which they proceed to finishing the partition.

Drywall is one of the most popular building materials. It is used for leveling surfaces, constructing partitions during redevelopment, installation various designs. Working with the material is not difficult, even a beginner can do it home handyman. Installation must begin with the construction of a wooden or metal frame. Although metal base more durable and easier to install; many people prefer a wooden frame for drywall.

Frame materials

Using a frame makes it possible to hide imperfections on any surface without damaging usable area premises. Its construction must be taken seriously. The success of further work depends on how accurately it is calculated and designed.

To build the frame, you need to prepare wooden blocks. It must be coniferous wood, best option- pine.

The material must be flawless and well dried so that it does not deform during operation and can withstand heavy loads.

Before you start working with the material, it should be treated with an antiseptic composition. The antiseptic should not be toxic, since the work will be carried out indoors. It should penetrate the wood easily, not decompose, not wash out, and be odorless. Do not use oil-based antiseptics. This may adversely affect the health of the residents of the house.

The thickness of the bars must be at least 40 mm. Permissible humidity is no more than 15-18%. However, the thickness directly depends on the size of the future gypsum plasterboard structure. For example, when constructing a partition, you should pay attention to its width and height. The larger these values, the larger the cross-section of the bar should be. For wall or ceiling cladding, the width of the material is selected based on how much usable area you would like to save. If the surfaces are very uneven, you should use bars of different sections.

Base for drywall

Figure 1. Rigid fastening of a wooden frame to the wall.

To secure a wooden frame to walls or ceilings, there are two ways. Considered one of the most reliable rigid mount directly to the wall (Fig. 1). First the strapping is done. If the frame is built on the ceiling, then the bars are attached to the walls. If a wooden frame is made for a wall, then the beams are fastened to the ceiling, floor and walls located perpendicularly.

The drywall frame can be attached to ceilings or walls in another way: using metal brackets. The advantage of this method will be quick installation, and the disadvantage is low structural rigidity.

Before making a wooden frame, for example, on a wooden ceiling, it is necessary to carry out markings (Fig. 2). To do this, determine the lowest point of the ceiling. You need to retreat 50 mm from it and draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter of the room. A strap for strapping will be fixed along this contour. To draw an accurate horizontal line along the corners of the room, marks are made at the required level. A cord is pulled between them and a straight line is struck. In the rail you need to drill holes for fasteners with a diameter slightly larger than that of a self-tapping screw or screw.

Figure 2. Marking the frame: 1 - prepare a pencil, an angular ruler and a level, 2 - using a level and a pencil, make an even marking for attaching the profiles, 3 - apply the profile to the marking and screw it to the floor and wall, 4 - mark the mounting location with using a plumb line, 5 - assembling the frame and checking the evenness with a level.

The batten is applied to the line on the wall and the marks for future fastenings are transferred to the surface using a pencil. Then holes are drilled into which dowels or wooden plugs for self-tapping screws will be driven. The slats are fixed around the entire perimeter.

The next stage is installing a base of bars on the ceiling surface. The spacing of parallel bars must not exceed 800 mm. This will ensure the reliability of the future design. The supporting bars are attached perpendicularly, onto which the drywall will subsequently be mounted.

The wall frame can be assembled on the floor and only then fixed to the wall. The size of the wall on which the drywall will be attached is measured. Subtract 5 mm from each side from the result obtained and cut out bars of appropriate sizes. Assemble a frame from 2 horizontal and 2 vertical bars. Additional slats are attached at 600 mm intervals, and crossbars are fixed perpendicular to them. The frame is fixed with dowels, screws or dowel-nails along the entire perimeter of the wall. With this manufacturing method, the thermal insulation layer is attached directly to the wall, and the frame covers it.

In the manufacture of the frame, you can do without cross beams if its length does not exceed the length of the plasterboard and there are no door or window openings on the wall.

Making a frame for a partition

Before building a frame for drywall, it is necessary to draw up a drawing of the future partition, on which to indicate the location of the doorway. When calculating the rigidity of the structure, the number of horizontal parts should be taken into account.

To complete the work you will need:

Level.
Pencil.
Hammer or drill.
Saw.
Screwdriver.
Self-tapping screws or screws, mounting dowels.
Metal corners.
Screwdriver.
Bars: for vertical posts, the cross-section is at least 40x70 mm, for horizontal ones - 30x50 mm.

Installation of the frame begins with attaching the frame beams to the floor, walls and ceiling (Fig. 3). For this, self-tapping screws and dowels are used if the floors are concrete, and nails if the floors are wooden. Anchors will be needed for mounting on the ceiling.

First, the fastening takes place on the ceiling. The boundaries of the future partition are marked, only after that the beams are installed. Using a plumb line, a line is marked on the floor. For more accurate markings on the walls, you need to make several marks. After marking is completed, the beam is fixed to the floor.

Figure 3. Installation of the frame begins with securing the framing bars to the walls, floor and ceiling.

The next step is to attach the vertical strapping that will connect the ceiling and floor bars. Vertical posts will bear the main load in the structure, so the fastening should be as strong as possible with a fastening pitch of no more than 400 mm. If the main walls in the room are not made of durable materials, then dowel nails are used for fastening. You can drill holes in the wall into which to place plugs from wooden pegs and screw in screws or hammer in nails.

If the main walls are strong and smooth, then the frame can be fixed to direct hangers, which are used for a metal frame.

When the piping is ready, racks are installed at 600 mm intervals. It is this step that will allow each standard sheet of gypsum board to be mounted on two racks. The racks can be secured using metal corners.

For horizontal jumpers, timber with the same cross-section as for the entire structure is used. They are fastened with self-tapping screws. For greater reliability, metal corners can be used.

The door opening in the new partition requires reinforcement. For this purpose, additional racks and horizontal jumpers are used. The threshold will be the lower part of the frame.

Laying communications in such a partition is not recommended. However, if this is necessary, then holes of the required diameter are drilled in the racks. Electrical cable laid in special protective corrugated pipes or tin boxes.

Today, drywall is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular and sought-after materials. This is due to its affordability and undeniable ease of use. It is often used to level floors in the house. Today we will talk about how you can attach drywall to walls, and also get acquainted with all the pros and cons of this common finishing material.

What it is?

Before you begin to study such a finishing material as drywall, it is worth understanding what it is.

Drywall is a finishing material that consists of two layers of cardboard with hard plaster and special fillers inside. It is used for a variety of purposes. For various works sheets with different thicknesses. Plasterboard panels can be laid not only on walls, but also on the floor or ceiling. The main thing is to choose materials of the appropriate category.

Peculiarities

Today in construction and finishing materials stores you can find absolutely any product for any repair work. To level the walls, customers are offered high-quality putties, plasters and other practical compounds. However, many people choose “dry” material for such work - drywall.

Today the problem uneven walls familiar to many. Both owners of private houses and city apartments face it. However, it is quite possible to make the floors even on your own, without involving a team of finishers.

Uneven floors are bad not only because they look unpresentable, but also because many paints cannot be applied to them. Decoration Materials. These include tiles, most types of paints and wallpapers. On a base with drops and potholes, such coatings do not adhere reliably, and they look very sloppy. Many of the finishing materials even emphasize unevenness on the walls.

In such cases, you cannot do without perfectly flat and smooth drywall. After its installation, the walls acquire a more aesthetic and neat appearance. In addition, sheets of this popular material are extremely easy to process and can be coated with almost any canvas and paint.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall using a special wooden or metal frame. There is also a frameless installation method, which experts consider more difficult.

When choosing one or another installation method, it is worth considering that you need to work with drywall carefully. This is due to its peculiarity, which is fragility and the possibility of crumbling. If you accidentally damage the drywall, it is unlikely that you will be able to restore it to its original appearance. That is why for the manufacture, for example, of arched structures regular drywall will not work, as it will simply break if slightly bent.

Another distinctive quality of drywall is its multitasking. It is used not only for leveling different bases, but also for making interesting multi-level ceilings, racks with shelves, niches and cabinets. This once again confirms the unpretentiousness of this material and ease of working with it.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other finishing material, drywall has advantages and disadvantages that you should be aware of if you decide to install it on the walls of your home.

First, let's take a look at the list positive qualities plasterboard sheets:

They are distinguished by smooth and smooth surface, which is why they are chosen for leveling various bases.
The advantage of drywall is its thermal conductivity. A room where the walls are lined with this material will always be warm and cozy.
Drywall recognized environmentally friendly material. It contains no dangerous or harmful substances, so it can be safely used even in decorating children's rooms.
GKL sheets are fireproof and do not support combustion.

Another significant advantage of drywall is its vapor permeability. Thanks to this quality, this material is not susceptible to the formation of mold and mildew.
Often consumers buy drywall because it has affordable price, and is used for a variety of purposes.
Plasterboard walls can be supplemented various insulation materials(they often prefer penoplex and mineral wool).
Working with drywall is quite simple. To do this, you do not need to purchase expensive tools.

Using this finishing material, you can bring to life any bold design ideas. This is why many designers use drywall in their designs.
Drywall does not require expensive and regular maintenance.
GLA does not emit an unpleasant chemical odor.
It is processed without problems. For this you can use almost any materials, from ordinary paper wallpaper to tiles.

Plasterboard sheets can be installed in any room. This can be not only a dry living room or bedroom, but also a bathroom or kitchen. Of course, for the latter it is necessary to select moisture-resistant fabrics.
Thanks to gypsum sheets, you can hide unattractive communications and wires in the room.
With the frame method of attaching plasterboard, rough walls do not need to be prepared for a long time and scrupulously using special compounds. It is enough to treat them with antiseptic agents to avoid the proliferation of harmful microorganisms.
Many consumers purchase drywall for renovation because it can be used immediately after purchase, allowing it to sit for 2-3 days without any additional preparation.
Today, the choice of plasterboard sheets allows you to choose the best option for any conditions.

As you can see, the list of positive qualities of drywall is quite impressive.

However, it also has its weaknesses:

Ordinary drywall is not recommended for installation in rooms with high level humidity. For such conditions it is worth choosing exclusively moisture-resistant types material. However, according to experts, even such drywall wet conditions begins to lose its properties and deteriorate.
Drywall sheets may begin to crumble, especially under heavy loads. That is why it is not allowed to hang heavy objects such as large clocks, a hanging sink in the bathroom, lighting fixtures, large paintings and other objects with considerable weight. Otherwise, these things will not stay in place for long, and then they will simply fall off and damage the drywall.

You need to work with drywall very carefully so as not to damage it. Do not bend this material unless it is arched.
Drywall on a frame will “eat up” some space in the room, so this method of installation suitable material not to all areas.

How significant the listed disadvantages are - each consumer must decide for himself. But it is worth noting that many problems can be avoided if you choose the right material and strictly follow the instructions when attaching it to the walls.

Materials and tools

If you decide to install drywall on the partitions in your home yourself, then you should stock up on tools and materials.

The following tools will be useful to you:

special knife for cutting plasterboard sheets;
special glue (for frameless installation);
building level, plumb line, special marking cord, tape measure, long ruler (you can take a rule instead), pencil/marker - you will need these tools for marking walls and for competent control of the verticality of surfaces;
regular and rubber hammers;

spatula (you can use a trowel instead);
separate container for mixing the adhesive composition;
screwdriver;
perforator;

self-tapping screws;
dowels;
screws;
electric drill with mixer attachment;

roller with long handle;
soft brush;
plane (needed for cutting chamfers);
putty (for applying the finishing layer after all work has been completed).

Materials you will need:

GKL sheets (regular, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant - it all depends on the room in which the sheets are planned to be installed);
galvanized profile or wooden beam(to form a frame with the appropriate installation method).

Application area

Drywall is universal material. It is used in most different conditions and can be easily fixed on various substrates.

You simply cannot do without this material when it comes to a wooden house or a log structure. In such conditions, the walls are almost always uneven and require proper leveling. However, it is worth considering that wooden houses always shrink and plasterboards can only be installed in them after completion this process. Otherwise, the sheets may become damaged or deformed under such conditions.

For installing drywall on walls in wooden houses necessary:

provide space for installing insulation (if you, of course, plan to additionally insulate the room);
have free space for laying communication systems.

Leveling walls in wooden houses is not an easy task. In this case the best option will become frame installation. However, some owners first attach sheets of plywood or chipboard to boards and bars, and then glue drywall onto them.

Drywall can also be attached to walls with a concrete base. For such surfaces it is not at all necessary to make complex frame. Drywall can be glued to such bases using special glue. Such adhesives are found very often in stores today. For example, high-quality composition Perlfix is offered by the well-known company Knauf.

Drywall is often used to level brick walls. Here you can also resort to the usual gluing of material without making a frame. In such cases, immediately before installation, it is necessary to find out using a level how much the ceilings are curved, after which any dirt, dust and greasy stains are removed from the brick. In addition, the brick wall must be absolutely dry, otherwise sufficient adhesion with plasterboard will not be achieved even when using high-quality glue.

If you want to level walls made of foam blocks, then you should contact frame method installations. This is explained by the softness of such bases. However, some users turn to frameless installation, but before this the foam block must be prepared - finished with primer or plaster.

Aerated concrete walls also often require leveling. In such cases, you can use both frame and frameless installation methods. In the second case, it is necessary to treat the aerated concrete bases with a primer deep penetration. In such cases, the glue must be selected especially carefully, as in cases with foam block floors. Experts recommend using compounds from Knauf and Volma Montazh.

Drywall can make walls even in adobe houses. Such buildings are full-fledged composites, built from clay, earth, straw and sand. Of course, with such construction materials there is no need to talk about perfectly even partitions. For this reason, they simply require leveling sheets such as plasterboard.

Mounting methods

We have already mentioned above that plasterboard sheets are attached to the walls by making a frame or using a frameless method. The choice of one installation option or another largely depends on the structure and conditions of the room and, of course, the preferences of the owners.

To profile

This option for installing drywall is the most popular. It is quite possible to make it yourself. With this method, gypsum sheets are installed on a pre-prepared frame consisting of metal profiles, fixed along the wall.

It is worth considering some nuances of this common installation method:

Insulation can be placed between the wall and the profile if necessary. Most often, consumers choose mineral wool, penoplex or polystyrene foam for this purpose. However, we must not forget that rough walls must be treated with an antiseptic composition before laying the insulating layer.
In the cavity behind the frame you can hide various engineering communications. It can be water pipes, heating batteries or electrical wiring.
Do not forget that in rooms with high levels of humidity it is permissible to use only moisture-resistant drywall. Ordinary sheets will not last very long in such conditions.

Installing plasterboard sheets on a frame has a number of advantages:

with such an installation in the room, additional noise and heat insulation is provided;
frame installation allows you to level even ugly crooked walls;
Before installing the frame and fastening the drywall, the rough partitions do not require preparation (it is enough to walk over them with antiseptics).

Let's take a closer look step by step instructions for installing drywall on a frame:

First you need to take measurements of the walls and make markings on them for installing metal profiles and hangers.
Marking for the guides should begin from the top profile. In this case, the necessary indentation is made from the ceiling, then a line is drawn and transferred to the floor using a plumb line.
Vertical profiles must be placed at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that each plasterboard sheet rests on three racks.
As for the installation of suspensions, here too it is necessary to maintain a certain distance - 60-80 cm will be quite enough.

After this, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame. First, you need to secure guide profiles around the perimeter. To screw them to the ceiling and floor, you need to use a hammer drill, dowels and screws.
At the points marked during measurements you need to attach hangers.
Bearings should be inserted into the guide profiles and secured with hangers.
Fasten all parts as securely and tightly as possible, since the durability and strength of the entire structure as a whole will depend on the quality of the frame.

Before installing plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to strengthen the horizontal guides.
When the frame is ready, you should proceed to installing plasterboard sheets on it. They must be mounted in a vertical position. To do this, you can use special 25 mm metal screws. But they need to be screwed in such a way that the caps are slightly “recessed” into the drywall.
After installing all the sheets, the joints between them must be treated with putty using reinforcing tape.
When the putty is completely dry, the drywall attached to the frame should be completely puttied. After this, the surface of the wall finishing will be perfectly flat and smooth (without any flaws).

According to experts, this installation technology is simpler. However, it is worth considering that such a design will take up part of the space in the room, so in a very small room it is better to use the frameless method, if, of course, the ceilings allow this.

Non-profile designs

Frameless fastening of drywall is also called adhesive fastening, since with it the sheets are fixed to the ceilings using a special adhesive.

When choosing this installation option, you must meet the following conditions:

there should be no fungus or mold on the rough floors;
There should also be no crumbling areas;

walls should not be subject to freezing;
they must be protected from dampness and excess moisture;
It is necessary to remove old finishing materials, as well as dust, dirt and any other contaminants from the surface of the walls.

Frameless drywall fasteners can only be used if the curvature of the walls does not exceed 4 cm. Otherwise, it is better to build a profile frame.

You can glue plasterboard to bases in different ways.

The best option must be selected based on the technical condition of the floors:

The first installation method is designed for smoother surfaces. With it, the plasterboard sheets are fixed directly to the wall using gypsum mounting adhesive. It is transferred to the base along the perimeter (longitudinal lines).
If the ceilings have uneven surfaces, then it is recommended to glue the drywall onto them using Perlfix glue. It must be applied in portions along the entire length reverse side gypsum sheet (maintain a distance of 35 cm between the piles of glue), as well as along its perimeter.
To make a straight cut, it is better to use a sharp construction knife. If you are going to make crooked cuts, then you should use an electric jigsaw.

Prepare the glue. For this you can use modern gypsum solutions, which freeze long enough.
If the glue dries too quickly and you want to extend its drying time, then you should add wallpaper adhesive or good old PVA to the diluting water.
Now you can start gluing the drywall to the walls. Pay attention to the thickness of the adhesive layer. It directly depends on the area of irregularities on the base. If the floors are fairly even, then the mixture can be applied to it immediately.
To eliminate significant curvature, it is worth installing beacons. They can be constructed from plasterboard strips with a width of 10 cm. These elements must be glued along the entire perimeter in a vertical position, maintaining a step of 40-50 cm.

The right and left beacons (extreme) should be mounted using a plumb line.
After this, focusing on the mounting line (or thread) stretched between the outer beacons, you need to install the remaining strips.
Align the beacons with the rule.
Plasterboard sheets must be pressed using the rule set in various positions. Tap the panels with a rubber hammer and adjust their position.
When the glue has dried, the seams between the plasterboard panels must be finished with putty.

Drywall is Lifebuoy in matters of wall alignment. Installation of gypsum sheets cannot be called prohibitively difficult and energy-consuming.

To give you a more aesthetically pleasing and reliable design, You should consider the following tips and recommendations from professionals:

Installation plasterboard boards It is permissible to produce indoors only after installation floor coverings. Also, by the time the floors in the room are leveled, all issues regarding the installation of communications and heating systems must be resolved.
When gluing drywall (using the frameless method), try to avoid cross-shaped joints. It is better to lay out the sheets with an offset.
Pay attention to the width of the gaps between the gypsum sheets during profileless installation. This indicator should be from 5 to 7 mm, the gap from the floor - 7-10 mm, and from the ceiling - 3-5 mm.
In order for drywall to adhere securely to the floors, you need to pay attention to their technical condition. There should be no crumbling or falling apart areas in the walls.

When using the frame installation method, it is recommended to create a chamfer on the cut material (it is needed for better sealing of all finishing seams). To do this, it is recommended to use a special edge plane.
It is recommended to prepare all tools and materials before starting installation work. This will allow you to work without being distracted and without wasting time on unnecessary actions.
Adhesive compositions must be diluted based on the instructions. It must be printed on the packaging.
Do not over-tighten drywall fasteners as this may warp the fragile material.
To work with drywall you will need a level. Of course, you can choose the tool yourself that is more convenient for you to work with, but experts advise turning to laser devices.

Pay attention to the temperature conditions during installation work. The recommended temperature is +10 degrees. If the room is noticeably cooler, then you should take care of additional heating systems in advance.
It is recommended to install plasterboard sheets on the walls not immediately after purchase, but after they have been in your home for 2-3 days in dry and warm conditions.
Whatever installation method you choose, at the end the joints must be insulated with reinforcing tape. Only after this can you proceed to puttying the seams and screw heads.

Wall cladding with plasterboard involves the installation of wooden beams. Metal sheathing is predominantly used; it is more durable and practical.

In rooms with normal and dry temperature and humidity conditions, it is permissible to use wooden blocks with a humidity of 12%, impregnated with antiseptic and fire-retardant compounds, to construct the frame. In places with high humidity, and also where increasing the fire resistance of structures is required, only a metal frame is used.

What kind of timber is needed

For the construction of wooden frames, choose timber with a section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls). Basic requirements for the material: humidity - no more than 12%, absence of cracks and other defects. The common nature of the tree is pine.

What kind of fasteners and connection methods are needed?

The connection of frame parts, their fastening to the wall and ceiling is carried out dowel-nails. IN concrete surfaces The holes are first made using a hammer drill with a drill whose diameter corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.

TO additional elements fasteners can be attributed metal corners. They connect vertical posts with horizontal ones. The guide wooden beams are fastened in increments of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest posts).

Metal plate is used for both walls and ceilings

The connection of wooden frame elements to each other is carried out self-tapping screws at an angle or with metal perforated corners. The installation of the beams on the wall is done with an indentation from it, using ceiling and floor starting profiles, or without an indentation, when the starting bars are not needed, and the vertical racks are attached directly to the wall. If it is crooked, it is leveled using special compounds or by placing wooden spacers in the right places.

Requirements for materials and rules of work

The code of practice for design and construction contains the basic requirements that must be met to create durable frame and subsequent placement of sheets. Here are the main ones:

All products and materials must have a hygienic certificate and fire certificates;
In the space between the frame and the rough base, where operating conditions require it, it is necessary to place heat, sound, and fire insulating material;
Water absorption of waterproof and water-fire-resistant plasterboard sheets should be no more than 10%;
GKLVO sheets (moisture- and fire-resistant) are used in rooms with air humidity not exceeding 90% and temperatures not exceeding 30C. When using them, waterproof primers, putties, and paints are used to treat the surface;
To fasten gypsum board sheets with a thickness of no more than 15 mm to a wooden frame, TN35 screws are used, with a thickness of up to 24 mm - TN45;
When placing sheets longitudinally, the step of their fastening is no more than 60 cm, when placing sheets transversely - no more than 1.25 m;
To improve the soundproofing properties of the structure, a sealing tape is laid between the guide beams, ceiling and floor;
The sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws in increments of 25 cm, (spaced apart) with a distance from the edges of 10 mm (edge with cardboard), 15 mm (cut edge);
The joints of the sheets, if they are located vertically, should fall on the center of the racks; if they are positioned horizontally, they should fall on additional bars placed between the vertical racks;
Step load-bearing beams on the ceiling - 50 cm with a transverse gypsum board arrangement, 40 cm with a vertical position;
The spacing of gypsum board fastening on the ceiling is no more than 17 cm.

Step-by-step construction instructions

Installation of the frame on the wall should be carried out after completion of the wet processes and before assembling the finished floor, on the ceiling - after completion of finishing and laying of utilities. All work is carried out in the following order:

Marking;
Frame assembly;
Installation of sheets;
Finishing work.

1. Marking

On the floor and ceiling, the position of the future starting beams of the frame is marked with a tapping cord, taking into account their thickness. Marks are transferred between the floor and ceiling using a laser level or a magnetic plumb line. At the same time, mark the location of the doorways and the places where the vertical posts are attached, taking into account the selected step.

Attention. It is necessary that the joint of the sheets falls on the center of the vertical posts. To do this, make an accurate calculation, and if necessary, increase or decrease the pitch of the profiles in the right places.

2. Frame assembly

Along the marked lines on the floor and ceiling, the starting bars are secured with dowel nails, at least 3.5 cm long. Next, vertical bars adjacent to the walls are installed. Their length should be such that they fit tightly between the guides. The elements are fixed with self-tapping screws or metal corners. At this stage, the selected area of the room should be framed around the perimeter.

The insulation is embedded in the frame

Attention! If you plan to place insulation in the space between the frame and the wall, you need to take this into account at the calculation stage, placing the starting beam at the required distance from the wall.

At the second stage, vertical bars with the selected pitch are mounted. To provide additional rigidity to the structure, it is reinforced with horizontally located posts between them.

Laying communications

If you plan to place sanitary pipelines and low-current wiring (TV, Internet, telephone), this must be done after assembling the frame. To simplify the process of placing vertical beams, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.

3. Installation of sheets

The sheets are placed on the frame, adjusted close to the wall and ceiling, secured with self-tapping screws from the center to the edges or simultaneously in the vertical and horizontal planes (alternately). The screw caps are recessed by 1 mm. A gap of 1-1.5 cm is left between the sheets and the floor and is subsequently sealed with sealant.

Attention. If the self-tapping screw does not enter the material at a right angle or is deformed, it is replaced with another, positioned at a distance of at least 5 cm from the first.

Joints between sheets with or without reinforcing tape, depending on the type of gypsum board edge. The putty composition is applied in 2 layers - starting and finishing and should not protrude beyond the seam. The corners are treated using reinforcing tape, bending it at the desired angle. After drying, the solution produces finishing surface of the sheets with subsequent placement of the facing material.