Is it possible to put dandelions in a compost bin? Preparing compost: composter design, what can be put, etc.

Many people believe that preparing compost is a simple matter: put branches, leaves and other organic waste in a box or pile, cover it and wait for it to ripen. Simple, but not quite.

Properly prepared compost will help the soil recover vitality and increase fertility, improve its structure. In practice, every farmer knows exactly how to make compost and prepares it according to his own - the only correct - recipe. In fact, there are a great variety of them, they include various ingredients, additives, and preparations. aerobically and anaerobically. It is impossible to describe each in detail in one article, so we will focus on the basic methods, time-tested and tested by thousands of farmers. I foresee the question: why make compost at home, because now you can buy it? Of course you can. Only if you are confident in the integrity of the manufacturer. Otherwise, you may not help the earth, but harm it. Only by preparing the right compost with your own hands can you be 100% sure that this is “garden gold”.

What you can and cannot put in compost

Can:

Mowed grass
Fallen leaves
Animal manure and bird droppings
Spilled tea and coffee
Eggshells that have not undergone heat treatment
Raw vegetable and fruit trimmings
Thin branches
Paper, feathers, natural fabrics (shredded)
Straw, sawdust, shavings, seed husks

It is forbidden:

Vegetables and fruits after heat treatment
Diseased plants
Perennial and seeded weeds
Synthetic fabrics and materials
Citrus peel

Organic waste can be divided into groups:

Nitrogenous

These include manure, bird droppings, grass, raw vegetable and fruit waste.

Carbon

These are straw, leaves, sawdust, grass, paper, cardboard.

Compost - how to prepare

Place branch cuttings and wood chips at the bottom of the container - they will act as drainage.

Do I need to mix the compost?

Yes need. The entire mass is enriched with oxygen, the layers are mixed, and decomposition occurs faster. In addition, it is easier to control the degree of moisture in the compost mass. The more often you do this, the sooner you will get mature compost.

How to tell when compost is ripe

The compost mass should be crumbly, moist, and dark in color. And most importantly, such compost should smell like forest soil.

When is the best time to compost?

There are no strict limits here: you can lay layers of organic matter from the very spring, as they become available. In the fall, harvested tops and fallen leaves are added to the compost.

Didn't have time to start a compost pile, and it's already winter? No problem! Advances in science allow us to make compost in winter. Personal experience no, but, according to the manufacturers of EM preparations, ready-made compost can be obtained in 2 months.

To prepare quick compost, you will need food waste, soil (10% of the waste volume) and a solution of an EM preparation - Tamir, Urgasa, Baikal M1. In a hermetically sealed container we place a handful of waste, a portion of the earth corresponding in volume, moisten it with an EM solution and close it. And so on until the container is full. The number of containers is not limited and directly depends on the amount of food waste you have) The smaller the organic particles, the faster the decomposition process. The container must be located in a room with a temperature of at least 15°C. If all conditions are met, EM compost is ready after 2 months. Naturally, the use of EM preparations allows not only to obtain compost quickly at any time of the year (except winter), but also to significantly improve its nutritional properties. Friends, the conclusion suggests itself: make compost and you will have a rich harvest!

Fortunately, in our time, almost every summer resident is engaged in processing biodegradable waste through composting. And he kills two birds with one stone: he helps himself by preparing valuable fertilizer, and he helps environment. And that's great!

Of course, there is nothing complicated about making compost. And it would seem that everything is extremely clear: we put everything that decomposes in the ground into compost, and everything that does not decompose, we don’t put.

However, there are several things that can still lead us into confusion or difficulty. We’ll talk about them today.

1. Typically, weeds and grass clippings are one of the most valuable components of a compost pile. But only those not pre-treated with chemicals. It happens that a summer resident first tries to weed out the weeds, and if that doesn’t work, he still digs it up by hand and throws it... well, no, not in the compost, in the trash, please, in the trash!
And don't forget about poisonous plants, they also have no place in compost.

In addition, a controversial component is weeds that easily spread through rhizomes (for example, bindweed, gooseberry), as well as weeds with ripened seeds. Most often, all the roots and seeds are overcooked. But there are times when in this way we help them spread.

2. There are also cultivated plants, from which there is usually a lot of tops left, but it is not worth ending up in the compost heap. These are tomatoes and potatoes. Why not? They simply contain substances that kill beneficial microflora, promoting decay and speedy preparation compost. If this doesn't bother you, add it. Confusing? Then it is better to first dry and burn their tops, but add the ash from the burnt tops to the pile.

3. Diseased fruits are also not suitable for compost. Most often, the piles end up with apples and pears collected from the ground, rotten, diseased and eaten by pests. Now let’s think, we don’t want to get fertilizer contaminated with diseases? Then we get rid of stale fruits in other ways.
And for those who say that when overheated, all diseases and pests die, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the works of Louis Pasteur. Yes, yes, this is the guy who came up with pasteurization, which gets rid of vegetative forms of “harmful microbes”. Its temperature is at least 73C, and in compost, even at the most active processes- no more than 60C. Draw your own conclusions.

4. Glossy magazines- at first glance, the same paper. Well, glossy, so what's wrong with that? And the fact that the substances that help it become such will also remain in your fertilizer along with all the metals used for bright magazine pictures. In small quantities, this may not cause any particular harm to health, but we still recommend that you avoid this component.
Drywall and some types of cardboard (carefully treated by the manufacturer to prevent all kinds of bugs and spiders) also contain a huge amount of toxins.

5. Components of the human diet are also not always good biodegradable materials. For example, it is better to give fatty scraps of meat to your favorite cat (and even then, not to everyone), and throw fish scales away altogether. You should also be careful with bones, especially fish ones. All these products take a very long time to decompose and are quite difficult, while attracting many unwanted living creatures, from microorganisms to insects and rats.

We have listed a lot of things that are not allowed, but in conclusion we offer a bonus.

Many summer residents, when buying a grocery bag in a store, do not look at the icons painted on it.

But it, externally polyethylene polyethylene, may well turn out to be a biodegradable material, which even in compost is completely harmless.

And we’re not just talking about bags, such icons can appear on many materials and are a guarantee of their safety and biodegradability. Remember them!

This is what they look like:

Of course, it is quite possible to argue with some of our criteria and even disagree, because there is an opinion according to which “don’t listen to anyone, throw everything into the compost, maybe it will rot.” Let’s answer with a phrase that we spotted on one of the thematic forums: “Compost is a plant for the production of valuable fertilizer, not a garbage dump. And it differs from the latter precisely in that not everything is there.”

More and more gardeners are adhering to the principles of organic farming in their dachas - composting plant waste and using soil mulching. How to get started if you've never made compost or gotten rid of weeds with mulch? The most important rules environmentally friendly garden.

What's the best place to compost?

The place for compost should be shaded and protected from the wind, this is necessary in order to avoid overdrying of the compost. At the same time, a completely windless place for composting is also not suitable due to poor ventilation. If there is a lack of natural shade next to the compost containers, you can plant a tree, a bush, or just tall flowers, which will provide the necessary shade and decorate the compost area.

What should not be added to compost?

Anything that does not decompose with the help of microorganisms: glass, metal objects, wire, foil, any type of plastic, ceramics, construction garbage, textiles, any chemicals plants and newspapers affected by fungal diseases.

From plants, foxglove, tomato, potato tops, castor beans, broom, lily of the valley, aconite cannot be added to the compost - the composting process will not be effective, since the toxic substances contained in these plants kill some of the microorganisms involved in decomposition, and the compost matures more slowly.

What can you add to compost from household waste?

The most common food waste that goes into compost is: potato peelings, eggshells, leftover vegetables, cabbage stalks, spoiled vegetables and fruits, banana peel, drunken tea leaves. All organic waste and residues from the home and garden are suitable for composting, especially those that have vegetable origin. These are herbs, green manure plants, crop waste (vegetables, fruits), garden waste, manure, bark, foliage, needles (pine, spruce), straw, sawdust and other materials.

In what form can all this be put into compost?

Green manure plants. The protein-rich green mass decomposes quickly without causing problems. Before laying, let it dry, lay in layers, alternating with coarser materials.

Hay and straw. They are a valuable material, bind moisture in the compost, create a good porous structure of the compost, which provides access to oxygen. Grind thoroughly and let dry, mix with nitrogen-containing green mass of compostable plants, kitchen organic waste and add to compost. thin layers.

Foliage. Poor in nutrients. To prevent foliage from becoming lumpy, it should be dried, if possible, crushed and placed in compost in thin layers, mixed with other plant and coarser materials. When composting oak leaves containing large quantities of tannic acid, it is advisable to add fluff lime (for 10 kg of foliage - 200-300 g of fluff lime).

Wood sawdust. They are characterized by a low nitrogen content and decompose very poorly, so it is necessary to thoroughly mix them with the green mass of plant material, add bone meal and add manure to increase the nitrogen content and accelerate decomposition.

Tree bark. Compared to sawdust, it has a higher nitrogen content, but nevertheless requires the introduction of nitrogen-containing additives: bird droppings or manure, urea; it is also recommended to add lime at the rate of 10 kg/m2 of bark for the decomposition process.

Food waste. Are valuable organic mass and have a high rate of decomposition. To prevent rotting processes, food waste should be mixed with coarser material that provides sufficient ventilation (for example, sawdust).

Manure. Due to the high nitrogen content, it is very favorable for compost and is a catalyst for decomposition processes. It is recommended to lay manure in one of the layers among the material from which the compost is made, and sprinkle earth on top.

Paper. Good to add to compost. It decomposes well due to the cellulose it contains. Before adding the paper to the compost, shred and wet it, preferably in herbal infusion so that along with moisture it absorbs additional nutrients. Lay out in thin layers, combining with coarse material, otherwise the wet paper will clump into lumps, and this will complicate the decomposition process.

Can fertilized weeds be added to compost?

To prevent weed seeds from spreading throughout the garden as part of compost, plants with seeds should first be soaked in barrels of water for 10 days and only then put into compost. To prevent weeds from growing in the compost, it is kept without access to light and covered with dark, impenetrable material (black film, roofing felt).

How long does it take for compost to decompose?

The duration of the compost decomposition process depends on the desired quality of the final product; it can last up to 12 months or up to 2 years. Decomposition begins very rapidly and slows down in subsequent stages. Compost must be mixed to activate the decomposition process and achieve uniformity in all layers. After mixing, the temperature within the compost initially decreases, but then rapidly increases due to the activation of the decomposition process due to the influx of oxygen.

What are the benefits of compost?

Compost is a favorable environment for the development of microorganisms and activates the vital activity of soil fauna.

Thanks to the activity of microorganisms in compost and soil fertilized with it, it is possible to suppress the activity of pathogenic microorganisms or restrain their development.

Since the starting materials for making compost were selected by us ourselves, there is no need to worry about the admixture of substances harmful to the soil and plant health.

Compost comprehensively improves soil structure, restoring its original ability to retain nutrients and moisture in the surface layer of soil.

Compost has a mild, dosed fertilizing effect on plants.

Obtaining humus through composting occurs quite quickly, inexpensively and directly at the site of further direct use.

The process of producing compost is very environmentally friendly and close to natural processes in nature.

What are the benefits of mulching?

Mulching is covering the beds with peat, humus, straw, sawdust and other porous organic materials.

The mulch layer gives favorable conditions for the life of soil microorganisms. The organic mulch cover decomposes, the process of nutrient mineralization accelerates, and the absorption of nutrients by plants improves and accelerates.

The decomposition of organic mulch material occurs directly on the soil, so valuable nutrients are not lost, and the soil constantly has additional nutrients due to the decomposition of the mulch material.

Soil covered with organic fertilizers warms up faster in the spring, caking and compacting less.

The mulch cover makes loosening the soil unnecessary, since plant roots are already well supplied with oxygen due to the absence of a compacted crust. This avoids mechanical damage to the delicate superficial roots.

The mulch cover suppresses the growth and development of weeds, protects the soil from erosion, wind exposure, the formation of cracks and dry crust on the soil surface.

The protective cover ensures uniform soil moisture and maintains a constant water balance by significantly reducing the evaporation of moisture from the soil surface.

By constantly mulching the soil surface, you can reduce the amount of fertilizer applied, since in the presence of a mulch layer, their leaching is significantly reduced.

The color of the soil largely determines its ability to absorb and retain solar heat, therefore, by changing the color of the soil surface, its thermal properties can be adjusted. Important role Mulching plays a role in regulating the thermal regime of the soil.

Dark mulch on the soil surface attracts Sun rays and quickly absorbs heat. This promotes good soil warming. Light mulch, on the contrary, increases the ability of the soil surface to reflect the sun's rays, which prevents overheating of the soil under the mulch cover, and therefore protects plant roots from exposure to high temperatures.

Mulching process followed by decomposition organic matter is one of the ways to enrich the soil with humus.

Practice shows that after several years of mulching, the volume of soil pores filled with water and air increases significantly, which means its air and water permeability improves, which are one of the main indicators of soil health.

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several methods:
1. Old iron barrel without a bottom, painted black (to make the waste warmer), during the season I fill it with everything that rots, small twigs, twigs, roots, mown grass, leaves, kitchen waste on the bottom. I never take anything from the toilet. If there is, I add manure. If possible, I add layers of regular soil and very little peat (very little, because I save it for other purposes). I'm spilling it all warm water. Most upper layer- from good soil with humus and cover the top with black spunbond. I plant 7-10 cucumber seeds in this barrel. As they grow, the lashes hang down and cover the entire barrel. Cucumbers grow beautifully, they are easy to care for and picking is a pleasure. And in the fall, after harvesting, the finished compost is placed in the beds and under the bushes. I must say that a barrel holds a lot of waste. And cheaper than a composter.

2. I made two boxes from the remnants of slate, where I put all the waste, except toilet and large pieces of wood (they take a long time to rot). If I put leaves there from fruit trees, then I definitely spill vitriol. (It's better to burn them, but when it's rainy or there's no time, I compost them). The technology is the same. Last year I bought the drug "Vozrozhdenie" and poured it on everything according to the instructions. The instructions “promised” that everything would rot in three weeks. I haven't rotted in three months. Hopefully the compost will be ready by spring.
If you sprinkle the pile with earth or peat on top, there will be no stink.

3. Previously, I made a trench along the back fence, laid everything there and covered it with the same soil from the trench. By spring, everything had rotted and a ready-made bed was obtained.

Yes, I also added ash everywhere - from the stove, from the fire. That's all.
This year I want to get rid of the heaps and make do with two barrels: compact and economical.

But I don’t dig holes, but a trench slightly narrower than the future bed, to a depth of 30-40 cm (it can be deeper) and a meter or two in length, when this meter or two is filled, I dig further along the length, and transfer the soil to an area filled with grass . Then you can cover this future bed with boards or slate and fill it with grass and other waste (anything that rots).

In general, you need to cover the composter and provide ventilation, and the color also affects it, as you know, a shield with a black color heats up a lot from the sun. You will have ready-made compost in 3-4 weeks. And ordinary rainworms also play a significant role. If you develop them well, they will reward you with good vermicompost.

There should be a composter without a bottom.
In the old pile, as far as I understand, the “green” and dry layers (those with nitrogen content and those with carbon content) did not alternate, and that’s why it stinks.

The compost heap must have contact with the ground, which is why composters are made without a bottom, and branches are thrown at the base so that there is air circulation.

I don’t put sick plants in compost. We often get late blight on tomato and potato tops, so I don’t compost either. I don’t put flowering or faded weeds, otherwise they will scatter throughout the compost area. I wouldn’t put wheatgrass rhizomes in compost either - they are very tenacious.
Once I put into the compost a phytolaca bush pruned in the fall with berries, hops with cones taken from the fence, elecampane with faded heads... On next year added a little compost to the beds, dug up, planted seeds cultivated plants, but then had difficulty finding them among the weeds that had sprouted together.
I put it directly on the ground - weeded out young weeds (any, with roots, most importantly NOT IMMEDIATE!), kitchen waste (potato peelings, eggshells, bread, paper napkins, tea leaves, etc.), tear and stack cardboard boxes, sprinkle the layers with a small amount of earth, add ash, urea, superphosphate, lime (a little). If available, you can add manure. By autumn, a lot of different tops appear (you can’t put only tomato tops) - the rest all goes into use. I add thin branches (cut with pruning shears). From time to time I water the pile and shovel it. This spring I have quite a lot of compost. Now I have laid a new pile nearby and am raking out the old one. Then, on the contrary, it is very convenient.
And by the way, there was NEVER from my pile unpleasant odor, not to mention the "stench". The contents must ROTTEN, not rot! The finished compost smells pleasantly like forest soil!

What can you put in your compost pile?

Any organic waste of plant origin.
Cardboard.
Fresh manure.
Dried or moldy bread, it is better to soak it first. Shredded natural fabrics.
Feathers from old pillows and feather beds.
Sludge and aquatic plants that remain during the cleaning process of ponds.

What should you not put in your compost pile?

Animal waste - it will, of course, be processed, but an unpleasant odor will inevitably appear and a variety of predators will be attracted to it - from rats to stray dogs.
Content country toilets– there is not enough in the compost heap high temperature so that pathogenic microbes die.
Sick plants must be burned.
Infested weeds. The seeds will remain in the compost, and when you add it to your garden bed or flower garden, they will begin to grow. (Although I read in some magazine that the temperature on the second day in compost rises to 70 degrees and the seeds partially die.)
Such weeds can first be placed in a large plastic bag so that the seeds “burn”, and after a year they can be added to the compost heap. They do the same with fallen leaves - in a compost heap they rot more slowly than grass, to speed up this process they are first placed in such a bag, pierced several holes on the sides, and after some time they are transferred to the compost heap.
Small branches are crushed in a garden shredder before being added to the compost.
You need to pour a little at the bottom of the compost pit. garden soil containing the necessary microorganisms. The contents of the compost heap should ideally be mixed several times for better aeration, but this is a rather labor-intensive process; you can simply pierce the compost with special wooden forks or just a wooden stick.
Nowadays there are many different composting process accelerators on the market. They are not fundamentally different; as a rule, they contain enzymes and/or bacteria that facilitate the accelerated processing of plant residues. I'm spilling it with Baikal.
The composting process is an aerobic process, so it is very helpful to stir or poke the compost to allow oxygen to reach the lower layers.

Grass, leaves, twigs, straw are the most suitable components for composting. Compost from mowed grass is placed both in the pit and in the pile. The first option looks more aesthetically pleasing on the site, as it does not rise above the ground surface.

If moles live in the garden, they may begin to dig through the top layer of soil to get into the pile and feast on earthworms, which take part in creating fertilizer.

Benefits of Green Grass for Compost

Green fertilizer made from grass, manure and ash is considered the most nutritious and beneficial for both soil and plants. It contains basic nutritional components– nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, as well as humic acids, which are the main indicator of soil fertility.

Bacteria and earthworms By eating organic matter, microelements are fermented and plants absorb them completely. This is the main difference between organic fertilizers and mineral fertilizers, the penetrating ability of which is 60% lower.

Some crops have long roots and absorb nutrition from deep layers of soil. This is typical for green manure, so grass compost with the addition of green manure increases nutritional value fertilizers

In addition, green manure plants of legumes contain several times more nitrogen. This reduces the need for mineral nitrogen fertilizers.

Grass clippings can be used as fertilizer not only in compost. The greens are simply taken out into the garden and the roots are mulched and dug up with soil. Soil microorganisms already do their job.

The difference is that in a pit or pile, composting from grass is more efficient and there is no loss of nutrients. The pit is completely isolated from precipitation and wind, and the heap is fenced with boards. A layer of soil, peat or sawdust is usually placed at the bottom to absorb the flowing liquid rich in minerals. If you make compost from grass in a barrel, the entire composition will be preserved.

Video: How to profitably recycle grass clippings

Features of grass fertilizer

There are many ways to quickly compost grass. But there are a few rules for how to compost grass correctly:

It is not advisable to use only greens. For complete decomposition, manure is added - it starts the combustion processes. At the same time, soil pests and their larvae are destroyed.

Weed seeds are usually much more tenacious and only temperatures up to 70 degrees can neutralize them. Lawn grass seeds do not pose a risk to garden crops. The grass content should not exceed 1/3 of total number components.

Fertilizer from grass and weeds must be constantly moistened. This promotes the proliferation of bacteria and earthworms. For example, red Californian worms are considered the most prolific and voracious.

They reproduce 500 times faster than domestic representatives of eukaryotes. Compost from mowed grass dries out faster in summer, animals and microorganisms are not able to feed normally, so the pile is watered and covered with film. It is better to plant in the shade of trees so that the sun's rays do not dry out the mixture.

Sometimes you need to turn the components over with a pitchfork so that there is access to oxygen. All bacteria in green grass fertilizer are aerobic. This means that they need air to live. If the walls of the pile are poorly ventilated, the bacteria die and the maturation of the fertilizer is delayed.

The best option for making compost from grass clippings and weeds is to dilute the greens with soil, alternately placing soil and vegetation in a pile.

What plants from the site are used for composting?

How to make humus from grass so that it is the most nutritious? You need to choose the right plants and combine them with other ingredients.

Green manure and nettle are considered the most nutritious. Nettle is useful not only for plants, but also for humans. This is a storehouse of vitamins and minerals without exaggeration. Green fertilizer from nettles and grass in liquid form can be prepared in a few days - on average in a month. For young seedlings the best feeding you can't imagine. Composting takes longer.

Legumes are suitable, but you need to keep in mind that the tops are richest in nutrients until flowering. Then it becomes coarser, and the nutritional components pass into the fruit. Therefore, it is better to grow legumes as green manure and cut them at the right time.

Cruciferous plants, such as mustard, are indispensable in compost. Their juices contain substances that disinfect everything around them - phytoncides. Before adding to the heap, it is advisable to finely chop the mustard and mix with the other ingredients.

Lawn grass is the most abundant ingredient in compost. The question arises, how to make green fertilizer from grass, so that it does not sour:

Be sure to mix it with manure so that combustion processes start faster;

before bookmarking lawn grass kept in the sun and dried so that it does not clump and rot;

add carbohydrate components - newspapers, sawdust.

The compost heap or pile must allow air to pass through - it supports combustion and reduces the risk of vegetation becoming damp.

What plants should not be composted:

Infected with fungal diseases, blackened in the area of the root neck.

Poisonous - lily of the valley, yew, aconite, foxglove. Alkaloids kill beneficial bacteria, and the process may slow down or stop altogether.

Weeds that are difficult to remove from the site are wheatgrass, cowgrass, bindweed, and knotweed. As a last resort, they are soaked in ordinary water for 2 weeks or pour boiling water over it, then put it in a pile. It is important to soften the seed coat so that microorganisms can digest it and reach the plant embryo. after that they will definitely not sprout.

Cabbage clubroot is difficult to destroy even by composting, so it is better to burn the affected tops in an iron container so as not to spread the fungus. In the form of ash, tops can be added to a composter or pit.

Compost Recipes

There are two fundamentally different ways how to prepare humus from grass:

aerobic – with air access;

anaerobic - in a sealed container - composter or barrel.

In the first case, you need to occasionally shovel the mixture and maintain the moisture level. The second does not require intervention and matures on its own. In the anaerobic method, it is preserved greatest number nutrients that are subsequently responsible for the harvest. This compost is ready for use after a month, but full maturation ends after 3 to 5 months.

For anaerobic composting, a special solution of EM preparations is used. Quantity – 1 liter per ton of greens.

To make green food for plants from grass using the aerobic method, you can also add EO preparations, but the strains of bacteria will be different.

With the addition of aquatic plants

If it is possible to use aquatic plants or duckweed, this is very good for composting, since pond plants have a soft tissue structure and quickly decompose. They contain the same nutrients as terrestrial species.

An example can be given Ancient Egypt when the Nile River overflowed onto the poor sandy soils organic matter in the form of algae and farmers were incredibly happy about this, since the yields were high.

To prepare compost from river grass, pond plants are mixed with soil and preferably manure - at least 2 layers. That is, the same rules apply as for regular composting.

Fresh grass compost

The easiest way to prepare it is anaerobically in a sealed composter. To do this, the mown grass is chopped and compacted tightly. A layer of soil is placed at the bottom of the composter to completely retain the nutrients.

After filling, the mixture is poured with a solution of the EM preparation and closed. Within 3 – 4 months the grass is decomposed (silaged), after which it is used for garden plants.

Silage is a valuable nutritious feed for domestic animals and birds. The content of vitamins rivals that of fresh grass, so it can be harvested in large quantities so that there is enough for the garden and livestock.

Liquid green fertilizer - preparation method

If there is no desire to arrange a hole or heap for composting, freshly cut greens are placed in a large plastic barrel by a third and filled with water. The mixture should begin to ferment, after which it is used as fertilizer.

You can prepare an infusion of herbs for feeding plants 2 weeks in advance. Will do lawn view or weeds that need to be crushed for better fermentation.

During the fermentation process, nitrogen is lost, so the barrel is tightly closed for the first days, then opened after a week, leaving a small gap for air to enter.

Grass and yeast

To make the herbal infusion for feeding plants ripen faster and be more nutritious, yeast is added to it.