DIY floor screed. How to make a floor screed in an apartment yourself

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If you decide to renovate your old floor, you will have to deal with preparation and... These processes necessarily include concrete screeding of the floor surface. After all, linoleum, laminate, carpet or parquet must be laid only on a prepared, flat surface. We will take a detailed look at how to make a floor screed yourself, and also get acquainted with the advice of professionals.

What is a floor screed? This is a rough concrete floor covering, professional floor pouring, and also the most universal method leveling the surface. In other words, this is an intermediate layer between the finished floor and the base for laying the subsequent decorative layer. After the concrete screed, any floor covering can be laid. You also have the opportunity to install underfloor heating, as well as sound and waterproofing. The technology of floor screeding is quite complex, and the process is labor-intensive. However, if you follow clear instructions and have patience, even a beginner can handle the job.

Why do you need a concrete screed:

Perfect surface leveling.
Strength and rigidity of the future floor covering.
Giving the floor the required slope.
Correction of uneven floors.
Possibility to hide utility lines.
It is used as a finishing coating for technical premises.

Types of floor screeds

According to the method of adhesion, their composition and method of flooring, floor screeds exist various types. Each of them is suitable for a specific floor covering and differs functionality. How to properly make a screed with your own hands, we will look at the video below.

According to the coupling method

By installation method

According to the composition of the material

According to its purpose

Leveling type screed. It is used to solve problems such as: eliminating unevenness and hills, correcting the slope of the floor, giving the surface the desired height.
Leveling and thermal insulation type. In addition to leveling tasks, it is capable of solving problems of installing thermal insulation in a room. Do-it-yourself floor screed with thermal insulation is shown in this video.

It is impossible to say which type of screed is better. When choosing, you always need to calculate the load on the floor during operation, the level of humidity and temperature in the room, as well as indications for the environmental friendliness of the materials used.

Experts also advise taking into account the following nuances:

If the house does not have a ceiling on the floor of the first floor, you will have to lay a dense and massive screed. For this, an embankment of crushed stone or expanded clay up to 10 centimeters thick is used, after which the floor is filled with cement-sand mortar.
If the ceiling in the house on the first floor is in good condition, then it is not recommended to load the floor surface. Better to use sand-cement screed layer from 2.5 to 3 centimeters. In all other cases, both private and multi-storey buildings, it is advised to make a thin screed to avoid unnecessary load on the floor.
If present on the floor old screed, made according to the level, and only small irregularities are noticeable, then in this case it is recommended to use a self-leveling mixture. The mixture is applied in a thin layer, after which the finishing floor covering can be laid.

Preparatory work

All activities for preparing the floor for screed and further laying the floor covering can be divided into several stages: basic preparation, installation of thermal insulation, installation of waterproofing, laying of reinforcing mesh, installation additional structures. Let's consider each stage separately.

Floor screed technology

The process of screeding a floor with your own hands in an apartment is as follows:

Remember not to speed up the drying of the applied cement or concrete mortar. This can damage the floor and the work will need to be done again.

Floor screed technology has its own nuances and difficulties. However, if you follow the instructions and recommendations, even a beginner can handle the work.

To make your floor serve you a large number of years old, and looked perfectly level, before you start laying floor tiles, you should first preparatory work, and level the floor surface. Now let’s try to consider how to competently approach solving this problem. Let's learn how to screed a floor indoors together with the portal.

What kind of screed is there?

If you don’t know how to make a floor screed with your own hands, then you should watch the video below. Before we start talking about this process, we need to talk about what a floor screed is.

So, floor screed can be done using all kinds of materials and using various techniques. Exist the following types screed:

Concrete screed. This type screeds are one of the most common. This screed is used mainly for the initial leveling of the surface of the floor. If the surface has a large number of differences, then this method can be called the most suitable. The mixture fillers for this leveling method are usually sand and cement. But to complete this work you will need to spend a lot of time and effort.

Self-leveling screed It is performed mainly from already prepared mixtures. The leveling layer is approximately 3 cm thick. It is used at the end of the work to level out various differences in the floor surface. This method suitable for almost all types of existing floor coverings.

Dry screed It is mainly produced if you need to level a floor that has very large uneven surfaces ranging from 4 to 11 cm in height. There are two options for making this type of screed.

A) Alignment by lags. Materials used are plywood, chipboard or various other types of sheet materials.

B) Leveling using gypsum fiber sheets. For this type of screed, German materials from KNAUF are often used. For the right choice material needed to level the floor, you need to know what general state floor surface and what type of flooring you will use upon completion of all work.

Purpose of the screed

In order to produce complex repairs your floor, in any case, you should screed its surface. Now let’s try to find out what functions this screed has.

The main purpose of the screed is to form a flat floor surface. For example, a material such as laminite, parquet or linoleum requires a perfectly flat base on the floor surface.
Another main function This basis is to increase the rigidity of structures.
The base has excellent warmth and soundproofing properties.
Thanks to the use of a screed, you can raise the floor to any level without any problems.

Requirements for floor screed

To perform its functions to the maximum, the screed must meet all necessary requirements and standards. Namely:

The screed must be strong in order to withstand established by standards compression loads.
The density of the constituent substance of the screed over the entire surface of the room should have the same thickness.
If the screed is poured over a soundproofing layer, then its thickness should be at least 4 cm and no more than 2.5 cm for floor slabs.
The screed should have a thickness 2 cm greater than the diameter of the pipes that need to be hidden in it.
When pouring onto a soundproofing layer, you need to retreat 3-6 cm from the edge of the wall. This indentation will also be filled with soundproofing in the future.
A monolithic layer is poured onto the waterproofing. To do this, as a rule, they use a film made of very thick polyethylene or use roofing felt. In this case, the waterproofing layer is placed 6-11 cm on the walls of the room.
The surface layers of the screed should not have chips or cracks.

Necessary preparatory work

The amount of work that, as a rule, must be done before laying the screed depends mainly on its type and on the condition of the floor surface. However, you will still need to do the following:

First, you should inspect the floor and, if necessary, dismantle the old covering.
After dismantling, it is necessary to completely remove construction debris.
Now it’s time to wet or dry clean the floor surface using a brush or vacuum cleaner.
Determine the required floor level for its subsequent raising by using a laser tape measure.
Now it’s time to install the beacons.

Work technology and features

In this article we are talking about what a do-it-yourself floor screed should look like in an apartment. In addition to our tips, there is a video in this article that will also help you see this.

Correct execution of floor screed depends on compliance with all standards provided for this work. You should know what composition of the mixture should be used, as well as how to properly mix it and install it. The order of your further actions will depend on what type of screed you have chosen.

Carrying out work on laying concrete screed.

Leveling the floor using this method is very popular and quite common, despite the fact that this work is quite complex and time-consuming. First of all, it is necessary to make complete liberation from objects on the entire floor surface: remove furniture from the room, various items interior, etc. Then they begin to remove the old covering from the floor, while painstakingly examining its base. The composition of a concrete screed usually includes the following components: sand, cement and other fillers. To complete this work you will need:

Building level.
Roulette.
Beacons.
Spatula and trowel.
Dishes for the mixture.
Construction knife.
A drill with an attachment for kneading the mixture.

Most hardware stores sell already prepared mixtures of sand and cement for making concrete mortar. As a rule, all these elements are already present in them. But if you do not want to spend money, then it is quite possible to make this solution yourself, if you have all the necessary equipment necessary ingredients in the required proportion.

Basically, in order to make a screed, you should take three parts of sand to one part of cement. And plasticizers will help the mixture become more elastic, and it will not harden quickly enough, which will prevent chips and cracks from appearing on it. If you need to level the floor with large differences (more than 6 cm), then you should add fiber, which has reinforcing properties, to this mixture, or use a metal mesh for laying.

Pay attention to the article on the site: How to glaze a balcony with your own hands

Screeding the floor surface in a room using concrete mortar should be done in the following sequence:

The floor surface is measured using a building level, then all existing differences and unevenness are determined.
All chips and cracks on the floor surface are carefully cleared and smoothed out.
The surface of the floor covering is cleaned of debris and dirt.
The waterproofing layer is laid (if necessary).
Using a building level, the beacons are installed and fixed to the floor surface.
Now the floor is being primed.
After which they make concrete mortar from dry ready mixture And additional components. As a rule, immediately after preparing the mixture, it is laid on the floor surface.
When leveling the solution, you should pay attention to the installed beacons. In one room, you should try to install the solution within one day. In order for the adhesion of individual areas filled with mortar to occur better, it is necessary to use metal mesh or fittings.
After all work on filling the floor is completed, you need to start laying polyethylene film over its entire surface and leave it until it completely hardens. This procedure will help you avoid cracks.

You should also ensure that the room is completely protected from drafts and sun. Depending on what mixture was used to fill the floor, the first steps on it can only be taken after 4 days. Using a building level, you need to once again carefully check the floor surface to see if it is level, or if there are small irregularities somewhere that will need to be smoothed out immediately after detection. special device. You must always remember that the time for complete hardening of a concrete screed is 25-30 days. Only after finishing specified period You can begin laying flooring or laying thermal insulation. An exceptional option in this case is laying ceramic tiles. This work can be carried out within 6 days after screeding.

Laying a self-leveling screed

This screed is used mainly to obtain a perfectly flat floor surface. In this case, we mean finishing installation linoleum, laminite, or any polymer coatings. The majority of construction stores sell a variety of self-leveling mixtures, the preparation of which is carried out at home according to the instructions attached to them. These works must be carried out in the following order. All debris and dirt should be removed from the entire floor surface. This work must be done with special care, since the small debris that may remain after cleaning may float to the surface of the poured layer.

According to the instructions, you need to start preparing the solution. When making it, to avoid the appearance of lumps, the mixture should be added to the liquid, but not vice versa. A mixer will help you mix the mixture thoroughly. The resulting solution should look like a creamy mass. It is saturated with oxygen and left for 10 minutes.

Filling is usually done starting from the very far corner room to the corner of the door along its entire wall.

Thanks to the use metal brush and a needle-shaped roller, leveling the solution and its thickness. Based on this, the floor surface dries quickly enough, unlike concrete. You can take your first steps on the floor after 9-10 hours. These terms may depend on the internal climate in the room and the thickness of the resulting layer. After pouring the floor, it must be protected from sun rays and draft, as well as water ingress on its surface.

If you try to follow all of the above recommendations, you will end up with a very hard surface that will not absorb any moisture in the future.

Dry screed

If you don’t know what a floor screed looks like with your own hands, then the instructions will help you see the whole process of work. To level the floor, you can use a dry screed. Dry screed is one of the latest technologies when carrying out these works. It has 2 layers:

A layer consisting of expanded clay sand or a special mixture.
Sheet material. The sheet material is usually fiberboard or plywood.
Can also be used hyposovolkno.

The sheets are connected to each other with glue or self-tapping screws. And the resulting gaps are covered with putty. Next, they are polished. Such a screed will have excellent heat and sound insulation properties, and the floor surface will be more even.

Results

In this article, we tried to tell you how to properly screed a floor indoors. As we found out, this work can be done independently, despite all the difficulties of the process. We would like to give you one more small recommendation: Try to carry out all work processes in compliance with technology and use only quality materials who have passed the necessary certification.

A screed is an intermediate layer laid between the concrete base and the finishing floor covering. The screed determines, in particular, how long the finished floor will last, so it is required without fail, regardless of whether parquet, linoleum, laminate, tiles or any other covering will be laid on top. How to make a floor screed with your own hands will be discussed in this article.

What types of screeds are there?

According to the manufacturing method, screeds are distinguished:

Wet. As a rule, this is a cement mortar. On the market you can find special dry compositions based on cement or gypsum. They serve to fill and level the entire base area. If there is cement or sand in the screed, subsequent reinforcement will be required. For dry mixtures, this is not necessary. This is a universal and most common type of screed. A sufficient layer thickness is considered to be no more than 10 cm.
Dry. It is also called a prefabricated screed. Produced in the form large sheets, having a thickness of 15-30 mm. If there are big differences level, then it will not be possible to correct the situation. First, the wet floor screed should be poured, and the dry one should be placed on top of it.

Based on the number of layers, there are the following types of screeds:

Single layer. It is poured once to the specified thickness.
Multilayer. Involves filling the rough and finishing layers. For example, in order to obtain maximum rigidity at the joints of the slabs and the floor, first pour rough screed made of concrete, and if subsequent finishing is required, then an additional layer of smooth finishing screed is poured. As a rule, the rough layer is made at least 20 mm thick, and the finishing layer is 3-20 mm thick.

According to the method of coupling, the screed can be:

Solid. Adhesion occurs with the main coating.
floating. Clutch is not provided. It is used if it is necessary to lay a layer of moisture-proofing film, as well as heat and sound insulation. The thickness is usually at least 35 mm.

Manufacturing materials

To understand how to make a floor screed, you need to understand the materials used for its manufacture. Most often, the basis of such mixtures is cement and gypsum. To improve the binding properties, sand, polymers and other mineral additives are added to the solution. The amount of water is added based on the required consistency.

Let's take a closer look at the main materials:

Cement. Before making a floor screed with your own hands from cement mortar, you will need to purchase, of course, cement and sand. As a rule, the mixing proportions are 1:3. The result is a moisture-resistant layer that can be used under any floor covering. You can buy sand concrete in construction stores. However, this material has one drawback - it shrinks quickly. This suggests that it is necessary to control the uniformity and thickness of the protective layer. It often must exceed 30 mm, otherwise the screed will simply crack (read also: " "). In order for the properties of the screed, in particular, the uniformity of stress, due to which it will not crack, to be maintained at the proper level, it must be reinforced from the inside; you can also add a share of propylene fibers (more details: " "). The drying period of the screed is quite long. If laminate or parquet, which are afraid of moisture, is laid on top, then this time can stretch up to 20 days, or even more.
Gypsum. A fairly common material, because quickly making a screed in this case is not difficult. This type of screed does not shrink, and the layer can be very thin. In this case, final hardening occurs within 24-48 hours. Gypsum screed is ideal for pouring onto wooden base, but only if the room does not have high humidity, otherwise the plaster will soften and look like dough. It is possible to use such a screed in rooms with low humidity, but only if it contains polymer materials.
Concrete. Concrete screed in its structure and manufacturing principle is very similar to that of cement. The main difference is that such a mixture consists of cellular concrete. Concrete screeds are divided into: foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, perlite concrete.
Self-leveling mixture. Distributed as ready material, which can be used for all kinds of floor coverings. A thin layer of such a mixture reaches 2-7 mm, and a thick layer – 5-30 mm. If the height differences at the base are very large, then you will need to first lay a rough screed.
Dry screed. This material resembles drywall. Manufactured in durable building slabs with moisture-repellent properties. Installation is carried out on a pre-filled layer of polystyrene. During installation, a slight overlap should be provided to overlap the joints. The advantage of such a screed is that you do not need to wait for it to harden. Finished flooring can be laid within 24 hours after installation. This type of screed is popular, mostly in apartments.

List of necessary tools for installation

Before you make a floor screed yourself, you will need to stock up on the following tools:

concrete mixer;
water level;
building ordinary level;
Master OK;
electric drill, as well as a nozzle for mixing the solution;
stationery knife;
bucket;
pencil or marker;
ruler and tape measure.

Sequence of work

Stage 1. Level tapping

For those who do not know how to make a floor screed themselves, we note that, as a rule, they begin this process by tapping the level (in more detail: ""). To determine the zero level, a water level is ideal. Marks will need to be made in all rooms at a height of 1.2-1.5 m from the base. The first mark can be set at any convenient location. The remaining marks are set based on the water level readings along the horizon, while the floor level is not taken into account.

After this, all points are connected, thus determining the zero level. During all construction work it will need to be oriented as if it were a horizontal plane. Try to check again the accuracy of the zero level determination.

In some cases, expanded clay or gravel is poured under the screed. This will require making an additional mark a little higher in order to fill it with the selected material, which will act as a pillow.

Stage 2. Determination of height difference

This stage is needed to better understand how to make a cement floor screed in any room, and at the same time correctly calculate the required amount of mortar.

In all rooms, we determine the height from the marked level to the base and make corresponding recordings of measurements at the measuring points. It’s better when there are more such points, then the measurements will be more accurate. At points with the highest indicator there will be the lowest floor level, and vice versa. The difference between these values determines the height difference of the old base.

As an example, consider the following values:

max = 1.30 m, min = 1.25 m.

1,30 – 1,25 = 0,05.

It turns out that the height difference reaches 5 cm.

Cement strainer must have a thickness of more than 30 mm, taking into account the addition of a plasticizer. Otherwise it will crack. A plasticizer can happen, for example, liquid soap. Optimal thickness for a self-leveling mixture is determined by the indicators indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

If you install a multi-level screed, you will need to calculate the difference in heights. Do not leave differences at the joints of coatings. Each level is planned separately, since the thickness of the floor coverings in this case will be different. This difference needs to be compensated different thicknesses screeds.

For example, we plan to lay tiles in the kitchen, and parquet in the room. To level the finishing base, you will need to create a thicker screed under the parquet, in several layers (more details: " "). Next, add up the height of all layers, plus parquet, and subtract the sum of the layers along with the tiles. As a result, we get a difference. It is better to add an additional 2 mm in a room with tiles if the layer under the parquet is slightly higher.

Stage 3. Preparing the base

At this stage the base needs to be cleaned, for example using industrial vacuum cleaner. If there is none, then you can limit yourself to simple sweeping, after which everything is thoroughly rinsed with a cleaning agent. For better dust removal, you can use a primer. Ideal option the surface will be treated using the “Betonokontakt” product, which will improve the adhesion of the screed to the treated surface.

Partitions and walls will need to be equipped with temporary moisture insulation. A roofing material is suitable, the upper part of the strip should exceed the level of the screed by 10-15 cm.

After this, you should inspect the floor again. You need to make sure that there are no cracks, otherwise they need to be covered with a non-shrink solution. If the floors have been ironed before or there is a “cement milk” coating, then such a film must be removed to ensure better adhesion to the base.

Stage 4. Installation of beacons

Beacons are installed to achieve a flat screed surface. They are, as a rule, metal profiles fixed to the base. After their installation, a rigid frame is obtained that will not bend until the screed is poured.

You can fix your profile in the most different ways, for example, install it on a cement slide or screw it directly to the floor. The gaps between the slats should be such that the rule does not fall between them during the process of leveling the cement mortar.

The alignment of the beacons is carried out using a building level, and do not forget about their parallelism with each other. If the screed is poured at several levels, at the junction of the differences it is necessary to install formwork, for example from plywood, to prevent the solution from flowing to a lower level.

Stage 5. Mixing the solution and then pouring it

It is best to use a concrete mixer to mix the solution. Do not add too much water to the solution, otherwise the screed will not be strong enough. To make the solution plastic, you can add additives to the mixture.

The result should be a homogeneous thick mixture. It is advisable to work it out within 1.5-2 hours. One room should be filled in one go.

The solution is unloaded into the spaces between the beacons, after which it is leveled.

Stage 6. Caring for the screed after pouring

Since we have already determined what a floor screed means for the reliability of laying the finishing coating, we note that during the drying process it needs proper care. That is, after pouring, the screed should be watered twice a day for 10 days.

It is better not to neglect this operation, otherwise it will crack. It often takes 28 days for a cement screed to dry completely. The beacons can be removed within 3 days after pouring, and the voids are filled with a portion of the same solution.

Stage 7. Monitoring the work done

So, we found out what is the best way to make a floor screed, we have completed all the work, all that remains is to check whether everything was done correctly.

At this stage you need to make visual inspection screed, check its color, evenness and make sure that there are no possible flaws (read: " "). When checking unevenness, the gaps under the 2 meter rail should not exceed 4 mm.

Next, you should check the slope of the base relative to the horizon. It is advisable to tap wooden block. The sound produced should be uniform, ringing and firm. A dull sound indicates the formation of voids under the screed.

Today the requirements for fulfillment finishing works much higher than a couple of decades ago. Almost all floor coverings require a base that is, if not perfectly level, then with a very small difference - no more than a few millimeters. Therefore, almost every repair means leveling the floor, and this is done using a screed. The process is lengthy and requires considerable financial investment. Everything will be cheaper if you do most of the work yourself. Even if you don’t have the skills, screeding a floor with your own hands is not such a difficult task. Compliance with technology is the key to success.

A screed is an intermediate layer between the base (ceiling) and the finishing materials of the floor. They can be divided into two groups - leveling and leveling-thermal insulation. A screed with a thermal insulation function is used on the ground floor, above a basement or unheated room. It is also made under a warm floor - to reduce heating costs.

There are two screed technologies:

Monolithic. For laying monolithic screeds use various brands concrete. Both heavy (CPS, with crushed stone) and lightweight (foam concrete, with polystyrene, expanded clay concrete and other lightweight fillers). They can be liquid or semi-dry - depending on the amount of water in the solution.
Prefabricated screed. This is when there are many layers, they can be made of different materials. This includes dry screeds, along joists, with insulation and sound insulation.

There are two types according to the method of connection to the base:

Regular. This is if the solution is poured over the floor slab, for example. What's the disadvantage? The fact is that if the house begins to “sink”, the floor will crack along with the foundation.
Floating. When the base and screed are separated by an intermediate layer. For example, if a polyethylene film is laid under a layer of concrete, thermal insulation ( polystyrene foam boards), waterproofing or any other separator that separates the material of the screed and the base.

All requirements and standards are specified in regulations. SNiP 3.03.01-87 “Load-bearing and enclosing structures”, SNiP 2.03.13-88 “Floors”, . To accurately navigate what and how to do, study these rules. Then screeding the floor with your own hands or supervising the work of the team will not be a problem.

How to choose the type of screed and what layers are needed

Making a floor screed with your own hands is not such a problem. The problem is to choose the type, not to make a mistake with layers, mass, choose the right materials and calculate their quantity. A best screed for each case its own. Repairing a new building is one thing, but major renovation in the housing stock. In addition, everyone has their own requirements and ideas about “the best”. But there are technical issues that determine the boundaries of your desires. These points must be monitored.

Weight

When creating a floor and foundation, a certain load is laid down that the floors can bear. It must be looked at in the project or clarified with the operating organization (usually the chief engineer). The average design load is 300-400 kg/m², but it can be more or less.

If the floor is made of wood, it will not withstand a large load. The specific value depends on the cross-section of the logs and the step of their installation. But on wooden floors, most often, they make a dry screed along the joists. The gaps between the logs are filled with heat and sound-insulating material, and a floor board or sheet materials. To improve sound insulation, sound-absorbing pads are used when assembling the screed.

If the load-bearing capacity of the floor allows, you can make a screed from cement-bonded particle boards (CPS), with or without gravel filler. But a leveling layer is needed on top of concrete with gravel. Although, it is almost always needed. The floor screed rarely comes out perfectly level; you have to add a layer of leveling agent on top.

Don't want to overload the structure? Use lightweight concrete with light filling. Any one you like best. Like wooden floors- do not do it wet screed, install logs, lay the floor from boards. Anything that fits within the load capacity limits can be done.

Waterproofing

In residential premises from the 2nd floor and above, waterproofing is not needed. This layer is required on the ground floor if there is no basement in the house, as well as in all “wet” areas on any floor. These include shower, toilet, bathroom, kitchen, balcony and loggia. Sometimes, to be on the safe side, they can capture the corridor. Do-it-yourself floor screed in a bathroom or toilet is good experience to start.

Waterproofing materials there are rolls, there are liquid formulations- mastics, rubber paints, compositions based on copolymers. In basements or on the first floors of houses without a basement, a layer of waterproofing is laid under the screed. In wet rooms - under and on top of the screed, under the floor covering (regardless of the number of floors). Most often, waterproofing is laid in two layers to increase the level of reliability. Can be combined different materials, for example, roll + mastic.

Noise insulation

Residents of apartments know well how poor sound insulation interferes with their lives. Especially if you have violent or inappropriate neighbors. Moreover, the noise from above is no less disturbing than from the side. Sometimes even more. To prevent your neighbors from being aware of all your affairs, you have to be quiet. And all because the screed is made ordinary, without sound insulation.

There are two ways to reduce noise - absorption and decoupling. It’s easier with absorption - in screeds and not only you need to use low-density porous materials. Carpets that cope best with this task are made from building materials- polystyrene foam/expanded polystyrene and mineral wool low density.

The second way to reduce the level of noise transmitted through the ceiling is decoupling the structure. Speaking in simple words, in a screed this is the use of layers of different densities, the use of porous gaskets that prevent direct contact of the screed with rigid structures. In our case, these are walls. That is, if you don’t want to tiptoe around so as not to disturb your neighbors, it’s better to make a floating screed. Under the concrete layer, place not a plastic film (or not only it), but a layer of mineral wool or polystyrene foam. And lay porous materials around the perimeter that will separate the concrete from the walls. Density - the minimum allowable for the design mass of concrete laid on top.

If you are making a dry screed, soundproofing pads are also placed under the joists. They must also be placed in places adjacent to the walls. And fill the gaps between the joists with material with good insulating characteristics. The good thing about screeding a floor with your own hands is that you do it for yourself and can spend more time to get a better result.

Thermal insulation

Residents of high-rise buildings do not need a layer of thermal insulation in the screed. Unless under a warm floor. In this case, it is better to make thermal insulation - so as not to warm the neighbors from below and reduce heating costs. The most common materials for this layer are expanded polystyrene foam and mineral wool. Their density depends on the type of screed. More dense ones are placed under a layer of concrete (expanded polystyrene with a density of at least 25 kg/m³, mineral wool - 160-190 kg/m³). In floors on joists, the density may be less - everything is decided by the thermal insulation and sound insulation characteristics.

Using expanded clay as insulation is ineffective. Compared to the above materials, its thermal insulation characteristics are, to put it mildly, not impressive. They are 3-4 times lower. In practice, this means that 35 cm of expanded clay can replace 10 cm of expanded polystyrene.

Composition of floor screed

As you understand, the composition of the floor screed can be different even in two apartments located on the same floor. It all depends on what the owner wants to achieve. Let's give a few examples.

In any case, the result is relatively smooth concrete base. WITH different characteristics and properties, but externally - the same. You can lay tiles and parquet on such a base. All imperfections will be smoothed out when laying the tiles. But even here the differences should not be too large. According to the tile laying technology, differences of 2-3 mm are acceptable.

Some coatings require a perfectly flat surface. These are laminate, carpet, linoleum, art vinyl and other soft floor coverings. Under such materials you need another layer - from a finishing or leveling mixture. It is poured on top of the finished floor screed. For this purpose, self-leveling mixtures are usually used. Just don’t think that you just need to close them and pour them on the floor, and then they will spread on their own. Not at all. They also need to be distributed over the surface, but you just don’t need to level them so carefully. After distribution, the composition itself will “become the horizon.”

Stages of work

To make a screed with your own hands, you need to know when and how to do it. During the repair process, the screed is poured before finishing work begins. That is, first they level the ceiling, walls, and install windows. Only then do they pour the screed. Not earlier. Because all leveling mixtures, plasters, putties weigh a lot. Stepladders and other equipment are required for work. All this leaves marks on the floor. And the screed matures for at least 28 days. During this time, it gains design strength (subject to certain conditions). It is unlikely that you will wait that long before leveling the ceiling or walls. So all the hard and dirty work must be completed before pouring the screed.

Paint the ceiling, glue wallpaper, apply decorative plaster- these works are no longer so dirty; they do not require heavy materials. They can be started when the concrete reaches 50% strength. At a temperature of +20°C and sufficient humidity, this occurs a week after pouring.

Floor screed laying technology

We are talking about the procedure for pouring concrete mortar. It can be any loaf - from heavy to light. There may also be a semi-dry screed - a solution with minimum quantity water.

This step-by-step instruction how to make a screed with your own hands in general view. There are also points that depend on specific composition screeds and selected materials, but in general, the sequence of work is exactly the same.

Care after pouring

Don't think that once the concrete is poured and leveled, the job is finished. In order for concrete to “mature” and not dry out, it needs certain conditions. Firstly, you need a temperature of at least +17°C. Secondly, a certain humidity is required. And these conditions must be created and maintained.

If you filled the screed in winter in unheated room, you will need either:

more time for ripening;
special additives in the solution, which make it possible for the solution to normally gain strength at lower temperatures;
heating.

At low temperatures, but not in frost, the easiest way is to add some additives and cover the laid solution. First with film, then with something that retains heat.

The screed is covered with film

If the temperature is above +25°C, you must ensure that the solution does not dry out. To protect against evaporation, you need to curtain the windows - so that there are no areas of local overheating, cover the surface with film. And, every two to three days, moisten the concrete generously. Abundantly - until puddles appear. In this case, care must be taken not to erode the surface. Such hydration is desirable for at least two to three weeks.

What materials are needed for floor screed

The basis of a wet or semi-dry screed is a solution. Use as a simple cement-sand mixture(CPS) and with fillers. You can add plasticizers that speed up the maturation period of concrete and make it more plastic. For screeding, use cement grade M400 or M500. Concrete for screed class M150 or M200 (do not confuse with cement grades).

More can be used high classes concrete (with a high cement content). The surface will be more durable, but there will be too much shrinkage and the likelihood of cracks appearing when drying. A floor screed made of concrete grade M150 for an apartment or house is more than sufficient in strength. You will not drive a car... Any other load is not dangerous for such a floor.

Proportions of concrete for screed, mixing order

To obtain a cement-sand mixture for M150 concrete, take 1 part sand and 3 parts cement (M400 or M500). Water - 0.48-0.55 liters per kilogram of cement. You can add medium or fine gravel. The proportions are given in the table.

When kneading, first dry mix the bulk components until smooth, then add water in parts. Its exact amount is difficult to determine - it depends on the moisture content of the sand and gravel. That's why it's added in small portions, stirring constantly. It is more convenient for the screed if the solution is of low plasticity - it slides off the inclined shovel.

Plasticizers can be added to the composition, which make the solution more plastic. A solution with increased plasticity is easier to distribute. The cheapest additive of this kind is PVA glue, but there are specialized ones. No more than 1% by weight of additives is added to the solution. Fiber fiber can also be useful. These are short fibers that prevent the development of cracks during shrinkage of the screed itself and minor deformations during shrinkage of the foundation. There are other additives that change the properties of the solution, but they increase the cost, and there is no particular need for them to fill the screed in an apartment or house.

How much concrete and cement is needed?

How to determine how much concrete is needed? You can roughly calculate. You know the area that will need to be filled, you know the thickness of the layer. We convert all values into meters and multiply. We get cubic meters - this will be the required volume of concrete.

Let's do the math with an example. We will fill area 45 square meters, layer - 5 cm. Convert 5 cm to meters. This is 0.05 m. Now we multiply 45 m² * 0.05 m = 2.25 m³. You will need approximately 2.2-2.5 cubic meters of cement mortar. Knowing the required volume of solution and the grade of concrete, you can determine the cement consumption. It can be taken in the table.

Please note that the table shows the cement consumption for CFRP, that is, without crushed stone. Having decided on the volume of concrete, you can calculate the mass of sand. It needs 3 times more. It's better to take construction sand, not river. Quarry sand has sharp edges, while river sand has smooth edges. It seems that the difference is small, but it is not so - with quarry sand the concrete becomes stronger.

Pouring screed with step-by-step photos

The first tie you make yourself will give you more confidence. The matter is not too complicated, but the work is physically difficult, even if you have a concrete mixer. And if you mix it with your hands, it will be very difficult. Try it on a small volume first. It may well be that you then decide to order concrete in a mixer.

Look at the example of a floating screed; the separator is an industrial thick film. The following tools are required for pouring:

The most expensive instrument - laser level. If floor screeding is not the only type of work you can do yourself, this tool will be very useful to you. So it’s better to buy it, and you should choose good quality.

How to calculate the minimum layer, where to make the zero level

If the base were level, screeding would be a very simple matter - pour in the mortar and level it out in an even layer. All. But the fact is that this is extremely rare. Usually there are humps somewhere, depressions somewhere, a few corners may be higher, some lower. Since the minimum screed layer is 30 mm, it is necessary to find the most protruding part of the base and relative to it (plus these 3 cm) draw the zero level.

To work, you will need a laser level with the ability to construct planes. We expand the horizontal plane at any distance from the floor. Let it be 10 cm. Next, take a ruler or tape measure and move around the perimeter of the room, measuring at what distance from the floor we “catch” the laser beam. It is displayed as a bright strip around the perimeter, so you can immediately see how things are going with the corners. If there is 10 cm to the beam in each corner, you are incredibly lucky. But usually the picture is different.

If the floor screed is being done throughout the entire apartment, you need to check all the rooms and look for the highest point of the apartment. The zero level should be the same throughout the entire apartment, however, taking into account the characteristics of the floor covering. For example, floor tiles has a greater thickness than art vinyl, and this must be taken into account when pouring the screed. In rooms intended for laying tiles, the level should be slightly lower - then you will not have differences in the floor level in the apartment.

When we find the point at which the distance to the beam is the shortest, this will be the highest point of the base. It will become decisive in applying the zero level. This is the level at which the screed will end. To this point we add the planned thickness of the screed (but not less than 3 cm). At this level we unfold the laser plane. Rays are displayed on the walls, which indicate the level of the screed. Take a ruler, a pencil and draw a line. Now we determine the average thickness of the screed - we again walk around the room, checking what distance is obtained to the zero level. Now you can more accurately determine the consumption of the solution and the required amount of cement.

Not all models of laser levels allow you to change the height of the unfolding plane. If you can’t set it at the desired level, you’ll have to work a little. It is necessary to calculate how much higher the plane goes, set this distance down from the laser line, and draw a straight line.

Preparing the base

If there are cracks, we seal them, clean off all excess from the walls (leave the lines). We remove the garbage, it is advisable to vacuum it, but when using film this is not critical, you can just sweep it. We spread the film. It should go on the walls. The overlap height is 3-5 cm above the zero level. If the width of one sheet is not enough, one piece of film overlaps the other by at least 15 cm. For reliability, the joints can be taped with double-sided tape.

The film can be glued to the walls with tape, but such fastening is unreliable - it constantly falls off. It’s better to take a strip, press the film with it, and nail it to the walls. Yes, they are plastered, but filling small holes will not be difficult.

We display beacons

The concrete solution will need to be leveled. The reference points are beacons - special strips that are set exactly at the same level as the zero mark. There are special metal films that are called lighthouses in hardware stores. These are planks of a special profile, 3 meters long, the height of the protruding part is from 3 mm to 15 mm. For floor screeding, take 10-12 mm.

Any flat planks made of any material can be used as beacons. For example, pipes - round or profiled, profiles for drywall, even even wooden planks. The only condition is that the material must be perfectly smooth. Any beacons can be placed on the solution, or on screws. There are also special adjustable stands for displaying beacons. But they are expensive, they are needed only for a while, since after reaching 50% strength, the beacons are removed from the concrete, but the stands remain.

The distance between the beacons is determined by the length of the rule - 30-50 cm less than its length. We place the planks along the long side of the room, from one wall to the other. When installing the first beacon, we retreat about 30 cm from the wall. That is, the outer planks should be approximately 30 cm from the walls. We divide the rest of the space into equal parts so that the distance is less than the length of the rule.

For example, the width of the room is 4.3 m, we will work as a rule of 1.5 m. We calculate like this: 4.3 meters - 0.6 m (twice 30 cm), it will be 3.7 m. You can put two beacons. They will divide the remaining space into three parts - 1.2 m + 1.3 m + 1.2 m. The distance may be equal, you can move the outer profiles a little closer/further.

For solution

The arrangement of the screed begins with the installation of beacons. The final result will depend on how evenly they are set. First, let's look at how to place beacons on the solution. The solution is mixed from standard CPS with the addition of one part of gypsum. This will make it more flexible. Mix the thick solution. It should lie in a “heap” and not float. Add minimal water.

Along the wall, in the right place, at a distance of 50 centimeters, we lay out piles of mortar. In height they should be above the zero mark. To make it easier, turn on the laser level and ensure that the plane coincides with the mark applied to the walls. Place the bar on the solution and press it in so that it is in the same plane as the laser.

Doing this is not as easy as it seems. Sometimes higher, sometimes lower than necessary. Even if your profile is filled up in only one place, you need to start all over again. It’s a little easier if you press the beacon as a rule - hold it in length and press smoothly, watching the laser beam. This makes the efforts easier to control and the beacons easier to set.

We leave the leveled planks alone for a day. During this time, the solution will set and you can continue.

For dowel screws

To attach beacons to screws, take fasteners with a rod length greater than the height of the tie. The head is selected so that the selected type of beacon holds well on it. We draw a line on the floor along which we will place the lighthouse strips. We drill holes in the base and insert dowel plugs. We screw in the screws so that the heads are at the same level. The height is determined taking into account the fact that the lighthouse bar also rests on the screws.

This method seems more labor intensive. But believe me, it’s normal to place a beacon on the solution - that’s quite a task. As a result, more time is spent. Verified. Especially if you are doing the floor screed with your own hands for the first time. In addition, immediately after the beacons are placed, you can begin pouring the screed.

Laying out and leveling the solution

The solution is spread between two beacons, spreading it slightly. Having laid out a certain amount, take a rule, use it to level and level the solution. It is moved slightly to the right and left, and at the same time pulled towards you. Beacons are used as the basis. The bottom edge of the rule rests on them. The plank captures excess solution and pushes it in front of itself. Along the way, possible voids and holes are filled.

If after passing the rule, dips have formed, add mortar with a trowel and level it again. Do this until we get a smooth surface. Mix a new batch of mortar and level it again.

To make work convenient, start pouring the screed from the wall farthest from the entrance. It is more convenient to completely fill one span between the beacons, leave the next one empty, then fill the next one. Then - the third. With this technology, the screed can be poured in parts. This option is good for those who do repairs after work and have a couple of hours to spare.

Screeding a floor with your own hands is a task that may confront you if you decide to make major repairs in an apartment or private house. It can be fine and rough, for wet and dry rooms, hard and floating, dry, semi-dry and traditional wet. A rough screed is understood as a leveling layer of cement-sand mortar on top of the floor slab; minor unevenness is allowed, since it involves additional leveling in the next step.

A clean screed is finishing layer floor finishing must be perfectly smooth and can serve as an independent covering or as a basis for laying floor coverings (linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc.), as a rule, self-leveling mixtures are used to create it. The main functions of screeds are to level the surface, if necessary, create slopes, impart strength and rigidity to the surface, as well as heat and sound insulating properties. In this article we will tell you how to properly make a floor screed and what its features are for rooms for various purposes.

Types of screeds

Screeds are classified depending on the main material included in their composition. Do-it-yourself floor screed can be concrete, magnesite, anhydrite, asphalt, mosaic, gypsum based and epoxy resins. Currently, the building materials market offers many different types of ready-made dry mixtures with which you can make a floor screed with your own hands.

Screed for wet rooms

For wet rooms, the composition of the screed will be slightly different. Let's look at how to make a floor screed in a bathroom. A necessary condition is to create waterproofing. It is recommended to use modern material – euroroofing felt – as a waterproofing layer. This roll material laid in 2 layers dry with overlapping joints.

Important! Place the edges of the waterproofing on the wall to a height of 5-7 cm. This will protect the joints of the walls and floor from leaking.

After this, beacons are laid from metal profiles onto the concrete solution strictly according to the level. Mortar for wet rooms is made from three components: sand, cement and a dry waterproofing mixture, which is sold in bags. (for example, the manufacturer Ceresit). The video shows in detail the process of making a concrete screed in a bathroom:

Screed for heated floors

To install a heated floor, a cable or pipes (in the case of a water heated floor) are laid out on the surface, and then filled with a 1:3 cement-sand mortar with the addition of reinforcing additives.

The video shows how to properly make a floor screed for water heating:

Floating screed

This type occurs if the floor slab requires additional heat and sound insulation. The solution is laid on top of the thermal insulation and sound insulation on a special layer (you can use polyethylene film 0.1-0.15 mm thick). The layer performs the function of separating the solution and insulation. For floating screeds, a cement-sand or calcium sulfate solution is used.

It is recommended to use damper tape, which is glued at the junction of walls and floor along the entire perimeter of the room, taking into account protrusions and columns. It protects the surface from cracking during concrete shrinkage, and also increases the sound insulation of the room. The height of the overlap of the tape on the wall is taken in accordance with the total thickness of all layers of the future floor.

Video. Floating floor. Types of solutions, filling methods, nuances, subtleties:

Dry and semi-dry screeds

In cases where it is necessary to carry out repairs in an accelerated time and there is no time for the traditional wet screed to fully dry, you can perform a rough screed using the semi-dry method. To do this, add a small amount of water to the cement-sand mixture, sufficient to obtain a loose concrete mass after mixing. It is also necessary to perform reinforcement with the addition of fiber fiber to the solution. After this, the mixture is applied to the base, leveled using the beacon rule, and then the surface is polished. Most quickly and efficiently this technology performed using a mechanized method.

A dry screed is a backfill of dry filler - quartz sand or expanded clay, on top of which plywood is mounted, or chipboard, gypsum fiber board. This technology provides good sound insulation, light weight of the structure, no wet work in the room, and therefore no dirt and no risk of liquid leaking from the mortar into the ceiling. This type of screed is easy to do with your own hands, because... it is easy to manufacture, does not require machine mechanisms, special equipment and special care, however, it is afraid of moisture, and if it gets into the structure, swelling of the floor, deformation of the surface and the formation of unevenness can occur.

Video. Dry floor screed technology. This method is suitable if you need to meet a tight deadline and don’t want to bother with a liquid solution:

Finishing screeds

To install a finishing screed, factory-produced finishing self-leveling mixtures are often used. They come on cement and polymer based. Self-leveling floors are easy to maintain, they form a strong, even and smooth surface, which is easy to clean. Self-leveling floors are divided into types depending on the binder used in their composition. There are methyl methacrylic (MMA), polyurethane, polyurethane-cement, acrylic-cement and epoxy compounds.

Advice! The strength grade of the finishing coating should not be higher than the grade of the rough screed solution on which it is laid. Otherwise, deformation and delamination will occur over time.

Video. Applying a finishing screed using a self-leveling mixture:

Screed laying technology

Let's take a closer look at the design of a traditional wet screed using concrete as an example. Do-it-yourself floor screeding is done using the following tools:

building level;
rule;
beacons (guides);
drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
putty knife.

Depending on the purpose of the room and the materials used, the technology will vary. Let's look at the stages of this process:

preparation of the base, primer;
thermal insulation (if necessary);
waterproofing (if necessary);
reinforcement (if necessary);
placement of beacons (guides) with leveling;
mixing the solution;
fill;
care of the finished surface.

The first step is preparing the base. It must be dedusted, debris removed; if there is dirt and stains of oil, bitumen, they must be removed. If there is an old dilapidated screed, it must be dismantled. After this, you need to treat the surface of the floor slab with a primer using a roller or brush and let it dry for 5 hours. If the premises will have running water and sewer pipes, then you need to route them along the floor.

To insulate a room, you can use expanded clay or expanded polystyrene, the main thing is that the surface of the insulation is rigid. If you do a floor screed with your own hands on a soil base, then first you need to lay a layer of expanded clay, and then a layer of sand, with the obligatory compaction of each layer. For greater effect, it is recommended to moisten with water.

Waterproofing is usually carried out in wet areas (where there are connection points for water and sewer systems). To protect against dampness, waterproofing is also sometimes installed in ground floor rooms and basements.

After this, reinforcement is performed. It is used if the surface is planned to be subjected to heavy loads. For this purpose, reinforcing bars are used, the cross-section of which is selected depending on the planned load (diameter value ranging from 8 to 20 mm), or reinforcing mesh(rod diameter 6 mm). Sometimes plastic reinforcing mesh is used instead of metal ones. Reinforcing mesh will also help to avoid deformation of the concrete layer and cracking in the event of shrinkage of the building. Concrete is a brittle material and does not work well in bending and tension; reinforcement allows you to eliminate these shortcomings and protect the surface from cracks.

After this, the placement of beacons (guides) is carried out. They should be displayed clearly in accordance with building level, because The subsequent evenness of the surface depends on this.

The next step is pouring the solution. When the screed is ready, it is left for some time until it dries completely. During this time, do not forget to take care of the screed by periodically spraying it with water. Concrete slowly gains its strength (within 27 days), it should harden gradually. If it dries too quickly, cracks may form. Therefore, as care, you need to moisten the finished screed with water 2 times a day for a week, and then cover it plastic film and leave for 2 weeks.