Partitions in chopped bath options. What should be the partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink? Unique building material – magnesite slabs

Building a bathhouse with your own hands requires thoughtful and calibrated actions. The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink is extremely important.

To build it, it is necessary to correctly distribute the space in the bathhouse and select the right materials. In general, the construction procedure is simple, but you will need to carefully follow the recommendations.

This article will discuss various types of partitions and materials that were used in their construction.

Why do you need a partition?

The partition can also have a decorative character, becoming a design element

This structure is extremely important for a bathhouse. It has the following advantages:

  • attractive appearance;
  • high strength;
  • good level of sound insulation.

In addition, the partition will provide high temperature and comfort in the steam room.

If there is no need for high thermal insulation, you can build a more simplified building. Below you can see a diagram of a bathhouse with a partition.

What is the partition made of? The choice of material is extremely important stage construction. The following options can be used:

  • tree;
  • brick;
  • concrete.

A brick partition is placed in the bathhouse if a metal stove is installed in it. For doubles optimal solution wooden structures will become.

Partition for a wooden bath


It is advisable to do in wooden bath wooden partitions

Such buildings are built from various types wood Their assembly is carried out using the frame-panel method.

Experts do not recommend erecting brick partitions in a wooden bathhouse. Especially if the combustion will be carried out rarely. Since the thermal conductivity of wood and brick varies greatly, it will take a lot of time to heat the building, especially in the cold season.

It is better to make a partition between the steam room and the sink from different materials. If a similar material is used, but with a smaller connection, difficulties may arise in installing the connecting nodes.

The optimal solution for constructing an internal partition in a bathhouse would be to install a frame system.

Frame partition


The holes between the frame bars are filled with insulation

A frame partition in a bathhouse is best suited for wooden buildings. To build it, you will first need to assemble a frame from dried wooden blocks.

Their dimensions are 50 by 50 mm. The hole between the bars is closed with a heat insulator.

The following materials can be used as thermal insulation:

  • basalt wool;
  • foam board.

Protect the insulation from moisture with a layer of polyethylene

To protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture penetration, it is covered with a polyethylene film. Also a good solution would be to cover waterproofing membrane, although its cost is significantly higher than polyethylene.

Use stone decorative cladding highly not recommended. Wooden constructions The inside of the bath will definitely need to be treated with an antiseptic. This will prevent the formation of mold and mildew on the walls.

Construction of a brick partition


The brick partition is laid with spoon masonry

How to make partitions in a brick bath? This material is quite common and is often used for the construction of buildings in the bathhouse.

The construction is made using half-brick spoon masonry.

To make work easier, some specialists use hollow material.

Preparatory procedures

Before starting work, you need to carefully prepare the surface. The plank covering is removed from the floor to the very base, after which it is cleaned with a wet broom. The place where the construction will be carried out is equipped good lighting. All foreign objects are removed from the premises and the outlines of the building are outlined.

To work you will need to prepare the following tools:

  • level;
  • sander;
  • trowel;
  • plumb line and rule;
  • cement-sand mortar. For more information about the construction of a partition, watch this video:

Creating a partition


The first row of bricks is laid on several layers of mortar

Construction process brick partition consists of the following steps:

  1. A string is stretched and used as a guide. The solution is laid and leveled using a trowel. The level checks horizontalness. You will need to wait until the solution begins to dry.
  2. Another layer is applied on top of the dried mixture. After which the first row of brick screed is laid.
  3. The mortar is applied to the end of the first brick, after which it is laid by pressing down. It is tapped and leveled according to the string; the remaining mixture will need to be removed immediately before it has time to dry.
  4. If an opening for a door is planned in the partition, it will need to be positioned first. Installation is carried out using spacers door frame. The evenness of its location is checked and, if necessary, this parameter is adjusted.
  5. The brick is laid close to the box. To tie the partition together, special metal strips are used; they are folded and attached to the side surfaces between the bricks. Instead of strips, you can also use reinforcing rods.
  6. After laying the first row is completed, the brick is divided into 2 parts with a pick. One half is used to start the second row. The string that served as a guide is moved higher so that you can easily navigate. Laying the third row is carried out in the same way as the first. For more information about the process, watch this video:

Tying the masonry is an extremely important stage of construction, which will evenly distribute the load on the structure and significantly increase its strength.

Building any kind of partition between the steam room and the sink is a rather labor-intensive procedure.

Not every beginner will be able to do this kind of work on their own.

But, as a result, this will ensure high level comfort in the bathhouse, therefore Lately the construction of such elements became popular.

It’s good if, when installing the box, all the partitions are erected at once. But more often the room is divided after the roof is covered and windows and doors are installed. The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink performs a very important function, so the approach to its manufacture must be very careful.

Material selection

The partition can be made from almost any building material that can withstand high temperatures without emitting harmful substances. It could be:

  • Wood frame construction. This option is perfect for both a bathhouse assembled in the same way and for a brick building. It can be erected fairly quickly and is the easiest to insulate.
  • From a log house. It is better to plan and install a partition of this kind during construction. This is important because it is necessary to carry out bandaging with the entire structure. Afterwards it is almost impossible to do this.
  • Foam blocks and aerated concrete can be installed in brick buildings, as well as wooden ones, when the foundation for the partition was planned in advance.
  • Made of brick. For these purposes, it is better to use red brick, which is fireproof and retains heat well.
  • From glass. To do this, you will have to order a design for specific dimensions made of temperature-resistant material. This is the most effective option.

This type of partition is one of the best. Does not require additional care. There is also no need to carry out insulation, because... Wood itself is an excellent insulator.


Note! For the “paw” joint, the procedure will be similar, except for the binding itself. Typically, blanks for this method of joining - blanks - are made at initial stage for all logs. Next, a tip in the shape of a trapezoid is made on the log and a sample of the same shape is made on the beam that will be laid perpendicularly.

Frame

For this option you will need edged board. Its size should be equal to the width of the future partition. It can be 200x100 mm, 200x150 mm, 150x100 mm, 100x50mm. The thicker the partition, the better the heat will be retained. In order to calculate how much material will be needed, it is necessary to calculate the perimeter of the partition. Next, add as many more supports as needed if they have to be placed in increments of 60 cm.


Note! When choosing this method, you also get excellent sound insulation. This is achieved by tightly packing the insulation inside the wall.

Brick

Note! As we have already said, you need to make a foundation for such a partition in advance.

It's better to stock up in advance required material. The masonry can be done in half a brick. This will save money and also reduce total weight the entire structure. It is desirable that the sand that will be used to prepare the solution be dry. This will help you calculate the ratio correctly and will promote good adhesion.


Note! To prevent the wall above the doorway from collapsing, it is important to lay several reinforcement rods. It is desirable that its diameter be from 12 mm. Its length should be at least 20 cm greater than the width of the opening. It is necessary to wall it up in the seam.

Foam block, aerated concrete

A partition wall made of this material is built according to the brick principle, but it has its own nuances.

  • When purchasing, choose a material whose sides are as smooth as possible, this will make the whole process easier for you.
  • It is better to use a special glue for the solution, which is more flexible and dries faster. If you want to prepare it yourself, then the proportions will be 4:1; in addition to sand and cement, you will also need a plasticizer and a foam additive (they need 50 grams per batch).
  • The first row is tried on without glue. If one of the blocks needs to be trimmed, it is better to trim the two outer ones to the same size to get a good dressing.
  • In the same way as in the previous case, dressing is carried out with load-bearing walls using reinforcement or metal plates.
  • After two rows, a metal mesh is placed in the seam.
  • The doorway and the partition above it are planned in the same way as in the previous version.
  • Finishing is done using facing material or putty.

Note! Be sure to provide ventilation in all rooms. This will help prevent the growth of fungus and mold. To do this you can put supply valves, which will overlap. You can also install anemostats into the ceiling and draw leads from them through the ceiling to the roof.

Now you know how to make a partition in a bathhouse. There are no barriers to trying to build it yourself.

Video

The principle of arranging partitions in wooden buildings shown below:

The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink should be given special attention, since it (the partition) separates rooms that are so different in terms of functionality. Such a partition can be made from bricks, boards, timber and even foam blocks. The choice of one material or another depends, first of all, on what the bathhouse itself is built from. If it is a log house or frame construction, then it is better to use a tree so as not to violate the general concept, but for brick bath Brick would be more suitable.

Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink (wooden version)

In addition, the type of heating device located in the steam room. If we are talking about traditional brick oven, then it is already a partition in itself. In this case, you just need to add it until a full wall is formed. In case of iron stove(this option is preferable) the partition should be located at least 10 cm from it for fire safety purposes. Here the partition can be either frame or made of ordinary boards.

In the photo - a brick oven and a brick partition


On a note! For a brick partition, it is recommended to use red brick, not silicate brick (the fact is that the latter is unburnt, which is why it is characterized by rather low thermal insulation and moisture resistance).

The structure described below is a wooden frame covered with clapboard and insulated with mineral wool.



Design features

Design featuresPhoto
The partition will be installed on a concrete curb, the height of which will be 10 cm and the width – 12.5 cm. The curb is necessary not only to strengthen the structure, but also to lay tiles along it after the work is completed, which will isolate the tree from water.
This threshold can be constructed both when pouring the screed (if the floor in the sink is concrete), or directly during installation, by constructing formwork from boards. For better adhesion to concrete, the formwork walls must be coated deep primer and betocontact (for example, produced by the Knauf company).
The base will be attached to the curb using anchors (1.6 cm). The outermost posts will be inserted into specially made grooves in the walls and secured with hexagonal screws (9x0.8 cm). It is desirable that the grooves in the posts themselves be oval and longitudinal - this way the frame will not be an obstacle to the settlement of the log house. In this case, the screws will slide with the walls, there will be no excessive load on the frame, as well as on the structure as a whole.
The upper horizontal beam of the frame should be located at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Thanks to the resulting gap, expansion or settlement of the log house when exposed to atmospheric phenomena will be compensated. Therefore, vertical grooves in the walls are made along the entire height - from floor to ceiling.
For thermal insulation, it is necessary to use mineral wool 10 cm thick. The dimensions of the individual cells of the future design are 120x60 cm and correspond to the standard dimensions of insulation boards. The cotton wool should be covered on both sides with plastic film and secured with a mounting stapler - this will prevent the penetration of moisture and, as a result, preserve the noise and thermal insulation properties of the material.
The lining will be secured with clamps to a sheathing made of 2.5x5 cm planks. The sheathing itself must be mounted on top of the film and fixed to the frame using wood screws. The lining will be laid from the corner of the structure using the tongue-and-groove technology. From the steam room, the lower beam of the sheathing is attached to the floor, and from the sink it is laid on the curb and secured only to the vertical supports.
After installing the door frame, the final finishing is carried out. First, you need to install the skirting boards (one end should be inserted into the groove of the wall), then the edges of the structure are covered with platbands (the latter also need to be inserted into the grooves).
The platband at the top of the partition can be attached directly to the ceiling, but only on condition that it moves with it without having any effect on the wall itself. The gap formed between the structure and the ceiling must be sealed with cotton wool or any other thermal insulation material.
Wooden elements will be connected with galvanized self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws can also be used to connect open elements. To “hide” the screw heads, stepped holes should be made in advance in appropriate places; when all the screws are screwed in, they will need to be closed with wooden pins of the required size.

Stage one. Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1.In the opposite walls, grooves are marked and cut out using a chainsaw, the dimensions of which should be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific ceiling height, but on average it is 250 cm).

Step 2. Next, you need to install formwork to create a base for the structure, taking into account the doorway (94 cm). If the sink floor is covered with concrete, then the formwork should be installed along the edge of the screed.

Step 3.The floor surface in the formwork must be treated with concrete contact and deep primer. To make the connection more reliable, you can also drill holes inside the formwork in increments of about 20 cm, hammer in dowels there and screw in the screws ½ way.

Step 4.After this, the formwork must be filled with concrete. When the concrete hardens, it needs to be covered with roofing felt in two layers.



Stage two. Frame construction

Step 1.The manufacture of the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having made holes for the anchors, the blanks need to be installed on the curb, marked and similar holes made there.

Step 2.The blanks are securely fastened with anchors - at least three for each of them.




Step 3.Next, the supporting frame of the structure is constructed. To do this, the outer racks (their dimensions are 6x10x235 cm) are installed on the base and secured with hexagonal screws. A washer is placed under each screw.

Step 4.An opening is made under door frame– vertical racks are installed, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the clearance is 1 cm on each side more sizes frames

Step 5.Using wood screws, the frame jumper is attached.

On a note! At this stage Special attention attention should be paid to the accuracy of the dimensions of the frame frame, since the quality of the entire partition will largely depend on this. Verticality, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect how the design turns out.

Prices for wood screws

wood screws

Stage three. Thermal insulation. Installation of sheathing

Step 1.Mineral wool mats must be placed in the cells. If necessary, the material is trimmed using a mounting knife.

Step 2.It is attached to it on both sides of the frame polyethylene film(this needs to be done with a stapler), after which it is spread from top to bottom.

Step 3.The sheathing is installed at intervals of 40 cm.

On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed at the stage of assembling the frame - this will simultaneously solve the problem of its fixation in the lower part of the structure.

Stage four. Door frame

Step 1. If the opening size is 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install a frame of 80x205 cm (taking into account 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). Upon completion of installation, checking verticality/horizontalness and fixing the frame to the racks, all gaps formed must be blown out polyurethane foam. Excess hardened foam is cut off using a mounting knife.

Step 2.Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is a standard indicator), the open elements of the opening are blocked from the sink with planed boards 60x30 mm. In this case, special attention is paid to the fact that the vertical plane that runs along the outer edges of the boards must correspond to the plane of the outer edges of the lining.

Stage five. Finishing the sink with tiles

Finishing can be done both after installation of the lining and before it. It is important that the joint between the forcing and the end of the tile is carried out with extreme precision and without any gaps. You can cover the floor at any convenient time.

Stage six. Cladding

Installation of the lining starts from the corner and is carried out using the “tenon and groove” technology. This means that the tenon of each subsequent sheet is placed in the groove of the previous one. Fastening to the sheathing is done using iron clamps.

The last element of the lining is cut in accordance with the required dimensions, after which it is fastened with nails without heads (to avoid accidental burns) or with ordinary self-tapping screws, subject to subsequent closing with pins.

Prices for lining

Stage seven. Installation of skirting boards and platbands. Final finishing of the edges of the structure

Step 1.For the platbands, the same lining that was used for finishing is suitable. Using a circular saw, the lining should be cut to length, and then the edges should be cleaned manual router(a radius cutter is used). The vertical casing joins the horizontal one strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.



Step 2.The baseboards in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is plank) and to the racks through the lining (in those places where this can be done).

Step 3. Along the edges of the structure, vertical-type platbands must be inserted into the grooves of the walls, and then attached to the lining itself with self-tapping screws. In this case, stepped holes are made, and the heads of the screws are hidden with wooden pins.

Step 4.The planks installed at the top of the structure will serve only a decorative function. They need to be attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.

On the picture - ceiling plinth in the steam room

The described option is suitable for a bathhouse that has already been settled and stood for the required time. The compensation gap that must be left between the wall and the ceiling (3 cm) is necessary in case the dimensions of the log house itself change. If complete settlement has not yet occurred, the gap increases to 7-8 cm.

Can be used as cladding regular boards. Both they and the lining should be made only of hardwood, because... coniferous wood at high temperature releases resin. We also note that all beams in the frame should be treated with an antiseptic.

Platband prices

platbands

The partition in the bathhouse between the steam room and the sink can also be made of brick. Here it is better to use ½-brick spoon masonry (or, alternatively, a whole brick). Such a structure will weigh quite a lot, so to lighten it, you can use hollow bricks.

Stage one. Preparation

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all working surfaces. The plank covering is removed from the floor all the way to the foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Further workplace equipped with good lighting, all items that are not needed for work are removed from the room. The contours of the structure are outlined.

Stage two. Solution

To work you will need the following equipment:

  • sieve;
  • Sander;
  • shovel;
  • mixing tank.

Step 1.First you need to sift the sand to clean it from foreign objects. A sieve is constructed from a fine mesh chain-link mesh and 4 beams. The sand is carefully sifted.

Step 3.Mixing proportions – 3:1. First, you should fill in six buckets of sand and two of cement. Water is added and the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of solution is enough for about an hour of work.

Step 4. The solution is mixed to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of kneading, it will begin to harden and shrink, but there is no need to add water - just stir it once every 15 minutes.

Stage three. Construction

For this stage you need the following tools:

  • level;
  • pick;
  • trowel;
  • plumb line;
  • rule.
Step, No.DescriptionIllustration
Step 1.The string is stretched - it will serve as a guide. The solution is laid and leveled with a trowel, and the horizontalness is checked. Then you need to wait a little for the solution to set.

Step 2.Another layer is applied on top of it and the laying of row No. 1 begins.
Step 3.The first brick with mortar applied to the end is laid on the surface and pressed against the wall. Next, the brick is tapped and leveled with twine, and excess mortar is immediately removed.
Step 4.If a doorway is planned (and most partitions have one), then it needs to be set in advance. Using spacers, you should install the door frame. It is checked for horizontal/verticality and, if necessary, its position is adjusted.
Step 5.The brick is laid close to the box. To attach a partition to it or to wooden walls metal strips are used: they should be bent and screwed to the side surfaces so that they (the strips) are between the bricks; You can also use reinforcing bars.
Step 6.At the end of laying row No. 1, the brick is broken into two parts using a pick. The second row begins with one of these halves. The string stretched horizontally is carried higher to make it easier to navigate. The third row begins in the same way as the first.

On a note! Dressing the masonry is prerequisite. Thanks to this, the load on the structure will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will be more durable.

  1. Every five rows, steel strips or pieces of reinforcement are placed in the seams - this will strengthen the structure.
  2. The structure is tied to the walls with steel strips, and auxiliary reinforcement can be used for the door frame (ideally, this should be a channel of the appropriate size).
  3. The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small pieces of bricks previously soaked in concrete. The pieces need to be pressed as tightly as possible to each other. All cracks are sealed with tow, also treated cement mortar.

Video - Laying a partition of ½ brick


Foam blocks (made of gas or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that, with insignificant (compared to brick) weight, they have a O larger sizes, which means the laying will be carried out much faster.

Standard blocks have a height of 300 mm and a length of 600 mm. The thickness depends on the type of room where the partition is planned to be installed, but in most cases, products of 75 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm are used. The cost of foam blocks ranges from 21.5-49.5 rubles, depending on the thickness.

The masonry procedure is not much different from the previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is the sequence of actions.

Prices for foam blocks

foam blocks

Stage one. Marking

First, the floor and walls are prepared in the same way as in the case of brickwork. Then the cord is pulled and the doorway is marked. In accordance with the markings, the first row of blocks is laid out “dry”, and if necessary, trimming is done. A grinder is suitable for this, although it is better to use a stone saw. In the absence of these tools, a simple hacksaw is used.

In place of the future structure, waterproofing (roofing felt is suitable) is placed in two layers.

Stage two. Installation

For laying foam blocks, a special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The glue must be mixed with an electric drill with a special mixer attachment. Adhesive composition applied to the foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the block is put in place and tapped, verticality/horizontalness is checked. Each new row of foam blocks must be shifted by about ½ the width of the product to make the partition more durable.

Where the partition meets the main walls, it is tied with pieces of reinforcement or large nails. To do this, holes are made in the walls, and reinforcement with glue is inserted there to a depth of at least 50 mm. You can make recesses in the blocks themselves, although it is preferable to place the products directly on the rods that stick out from the walls.

On a note! When the height of the partition reaches the top of the doorway, two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid in this place. The length of the rods must exceed the width of the opening by at least 10 cm. Blocks are laid on top of the reinforcement up to the ceiling.

Stage three. Plaster

For plastering, you can use the same adhesive solution that was used for laying. If necessary, channels are created for laying communications. After plastering is completed, the surface is dried, puttied, painted or tiled.

Plaster prices

plaster

In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), a partition made of foam blocks can be built directly on wooden floor. Although there are some nuances here.

  1. When purchasing blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The smoother the surfaces are, the better the finishing will be.
  2. The dimensions of the blocks depend on the installation location, while the density does not play any role.
  3. It is advisable to purchase blocks produced using cutting technology.
  4. If the foam blocks are moistened with water before work, this will increase the density of the masonry.
  5. The blocks of each new row must be shifted to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
  6. It is advisable to leave a small gap (about 100 mm) between the partition and the ceiling, which must be filled with polyurethane foam.

Video - Laying partitions from foam blocks

A bathhouse is a building in which a person relaxes. It may consist of several rooms (steam room, small room, wardrobe, bathroom, shower). If the bathhouse is being built anew, then all rooms are separated at once.

In the case when the bathhouse is made indoors, and you need to divide the room into a steam room and a room, then it is necessary to install partitions. The material for the partition can be processed timber.

Partitions in the bathhouse are made to separate the rooms according to their intended purpose. The steam room is separated from the main relaxation room, as well as a wardrobe and a bathroom. Partitions can be done from wooden beams, bricks, metal profiles.

The most reliable material for partitions is a brick. Such partitions have high strength, resistance to mechanical loads. The only difficulty when laying brick partitions is stirring the mortar, preparing the bricks, and plastering the surface.

So this way turns into labor-intensive work. In addition, after installing the partition, it takes time for the solution to set firmly until it dries completely.

The most common way to install a partition in a bathhouse is wooden beam . A frame made of timber will allow you to quickly mount the base of the partition. Frame jumpers are installed every 50 cm.

First, install the guide beam at the top and bottom, and then attach the jumpers. Space between beams filled with insulation(basalt wool, mineral wool), then lay a layer of foil reflector. After installing the insulation elements, the frame is sewn up wooden clapboard from deciduous wood (linden, aspen, cedar).

Insulation of bath walls is integral element designs of partitions and walls. Bath insulation necessary to maintain existing temperature regime in the steam room.

As insulation acts rolled mineral wool elements, basalt wool, polystyrene foam squares, polyurethane foam rectangular slabs.

The most reliable of insulation for internal partitions baths is polyurethane foam. It is, accordingly, the most expensive. It contains a two-component substance that allows maximum retention of heat in the room and prevents the entry of cold from the external environment.

The cheapest method of insulation The partition in the bathhouse is mineral wool. It is sold in rolls and fits tightly between the partitions. For rooms with high humidity mineral wool is not very suitable. More often they use ecowool with a special coating.

Also used for vapor barrier foil mineral wool, which is laid on the insulation and attached to the frame.

After the construction of the bathhouse, it becomes necessary to handle protective equipment . Temperature changes are always characteristic of a bathhouse. Especially if the bathhouse or steam room is located indoors at home.

This ideal conditions for the proliferation of fungi, the spread of mold and other processes of wood rotting. In this regard, all surfaces of the steam room and bathhouse in general need processing.

Treatment of bathhouse premises is carried out using antiseptic substances. In general, there are many means and substances that can be used to treat all surfaces, including shelves, sunbeds, and other sauna accessories made of wood.

When processing a bath can be used:

  • Acrylic protectants and coatings;
  • Before purchasing a lining or sun loungers, you need to inquire about the material. Ideal option for the bath it will be one that is dried in special chambers. It is less susceptible to various insects and wood bugs that spoil the tree;
  • Spirit wax solution. This processing method is considered the most environmentally friendly;
  • The most available funds processing: impregnation and oils on natural basis. Such substances completely eliminate damage to steam room materials due to exposure to temperature changes;
  • Indoor bathhouse is required there must be ventilation.

Also watch a useful video on how to make partitions in a bathhouse

The bath includes several separate rooms which are separated by partitions. Thus, the partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink can be made of different materials. The installation method directly depends on the selected building material. This article will discuss some options for arranging partitions, as well as technologies for their installation.


There are several types of baths that are considered wooden:

  • Made from rounded logs.

The partition in a log bath can be made using five-wall log technology. However, this will require a large amount of money and assistance. qualified specialists. If this is not possible, you can make a partition from brick, gas blocks, etc.

Although we will consider different technologies making a partition between the steam room and the washing room, the priority option in a wooden bath is a partition made of wood, but on the other hand, made of brick, it will be more durable and less susceptible to negative influence moisture.


A frame partition means a structure made of wooden frame, which is insulated with mineral wool and lined with clapboard. The partition is mounted on a concrete curb. Installation process frame partition consists of several stages. Next, each stage will be considered in detail.


The first step is to make a border. Its height should be 100 mm and width 125 mm. This border is needed to strengthen the structure, as well as to lay it along ceramic tiles. It will completely isolate the tree from water. The threshold is made when pouring the screed (if the floor is concrete). You can also do this work during the installation of the partition. To do this, install formwork from boards. It is important not to forget about the presence of a doorway, according to the standard 940 mm. The base is treated with a primer deep penetration for better grip. To ensure that the poured border is not damaged, before pouring, drill holes inside the formwork and hammer in small pieces of wire or screw in dowels 1/2. When the poured concrete has dried, it is necessary to lay two layers of roofing material on top.

At the beginning preparatory work take a chainsaw and cut a groove measuring 4x21.5 cm in the walls. The height will depend on the room, but usually it is 250 cm.


At this stage, blanks for the base of the frame are first made. The dimensions should be as follows:

  • 6x10x210 cm;
  • 6×10×176 cm.

Drill holes in the blanks for anchors and lay the bars on the curb. So, the base of the partition is fixed to the floor with anchors. On average, each workpiece will require 3 anchors. The side posts are mounted in longitudinal grooves made in the walls and screwed in with screws. After this, you need to make a supporting frame for the structure. Place the outer stands, the size of which is 6x10x235 cm, on the base and secure with screws. Be sure to place a washer under each screw!

It is better to make the grooves in the racks longitudinal and oval. Due to this, the frame will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house. The screws will slide along with the walls. As a result, there will be no interference during shrinkage of the log house. And the frame will also not be under load.

It's time to design the doorway. For the frame, place two vertical posts measuring 6x10x206 cm. Secure the frame frame with jumpers using self-tapping screws. As for the top beam of the frame, at the top it is necessary to leave a gap of 30 mm between the ceiling. Due to this, the expansion or settlement of the log house will be compensated. For this reason, the side grooves in the walls are made at full height.

The frame dimensions must be accurate. After all, the quality of the entire partition will depend on this. Therefore, before fixing this or that element, check the horizontal, vertical and dimensional conformity.


As for thermal insulation, you can use mineral wool 10 cm thick. Cells of 120×60 cm should be made in the frame. This size corresponds to the standard size of mineral wool slabs. The cotton wool is covered with polyethylene on both sides. It is secured with a stapler. These actions achieve several goals at once:

  • Protection against moisture penetration.
  • Thermal insulation.
  • Noise insulation.

At the final stage of manufacturing the frame partition, the lining is attached to the sheathing (the sheathing is made from 2.5x5 cm beams). The lathing can be secured on top of the film and secured with self-tapping screws to the frame.


If the resulting opening has a size of 82x206 cm, then the frame should be 80x205 cm. So, there will be a gap of 1 cm on each side. When the frame is installed, fill all the cracks with foam. Surplus frozen foam cut with a construction knife.

Considering the fact that the standard frame has a width of 11.5 cm, the open part of the opening should be closed planed board, size 60×30 mm. It is very important that the plane of the outer edge of the lining matches the outer edges of the boards.


When the partition frame is ready, the washing room should be tiled. Although this process can be performed after laying the lining. Installation of the lining is very simple using the tongue-and-groove technology. Bottom beam the sheathing from the sink side is attached to the curb, and from the steam room to the floor. It only needs to be attached to vertical posts. The lining is attached to the sheathing using clamps.

The gap between the ceiling and the frame partition is sealed with any thermal insulation material. At the end of the work, it is also recommended to close each screw with wooden pins of a suitable size.

Skirting boards, trim and final finishing


This is the technology used to install a frame partition between the steam room and the washing room. If you follow it step by step, you will succeed.


Another method of separating the steam room and the washing room is to build a brick partition. There are two ways to lay bricks:

  1. Spoon masonry in 1/2 brick.
  2. A whole brick.

Considering the weight of the brick, the partition will be very massive. Therefore, to reduce the weight of the structure, use hollow bricks.

Below will be given detailed instructions how to make a brick partition.

Preparation

The first step is to do all the preparatory work. You should start from the work surface. It is necessary to remove all plank elements from the floor, right down to the foundation. Sweep the base with a broom and wet it. It is also necessary to equip workroom good lighting. Excess items should be removed. At the end of the preparatory work, you outline the contours of the future structure.


To work with cement mortar, you will need:

  • Sander;
  • sieve;
  • shovel;
  • mixing container.

So, first you sift the sand from foreign objects. The mesh should have small cells. Next, place the container for mixing the solution so that it has a stable base. Mixing ratio 3:1. To prevent the solution from drying out, make a small batch, for example, two buckets of cement and six buckets of sand. It must be mixed with water. This volume of solution will be enough for you to work for an hour. The consistency of the mixture should resemble thick sour cream.

During work, the solution tends to shrink and harden. Don't rush to add water. It is enough to stir every 10–15 minutes.


For construction you will need the following set of tools:

  • level;
  • plumb line;
  • rule;
  • trowel;
  • pick.

The entire work process follows this scenario:

  1. Stretch the rope as a guide. Lay out the solution and use a trowel to level it. It takes some time for it to set.
  2. Place a second layer on top of it and begin laying the first row of bricks.
  3. Place the first brick against the wall. Apply the solution to its end part and press it against the wall. Align the brick along the stretched rope, lightly tapping it. Immediately remove excess solution.
  4. When laying brick, you immediately need to decide where the doorway will be. It must be installed immediately. It should be leveled and only then covered with bricks.
  5. The brick should be laid close to the box. For ligation with the frame, you can use metal plates or reinforcement. One end is screwed to the frame, and the other between the brick row.

When the first row is ready, the subsequent ones are laid according to this principle. Be sure to check each row for level.

The use of dressing is an important condition. In this case, the existing load will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will be quite strong. To further strengthen the masonry, place reinforcement or metal strips in the seam every five rows.

A similar connection must be made to the wall. A channel for reinforcement is installed on top of the door frame. Fill the gap between the ceiling and the last row of masonry with scrap bricks and mortar. As you can see, there are no special secrets when building a brick partition. All the work can be done with your own hands. The only thing you need to consider is a few important nuances:

  • If you do not plan to plaster the wall, then the quality of the masonry should be appropriate. If plaster is to be applied, it is important to only monitor vertical level walls.
  • If the wall is to be plastered, craftsmen often use used bricks. This reduces the financial costs of purchasing material several times.
  • If you plan to carry out certain communications through the partition, then you can install a small section of plastic pipe. Its diameter must correspond to the actual need. In this case, there is no need to cover the pipe with solution; you just need to blow it out with foam. This is important, because after a while something may change and thanks to this the structure of the wall will not be disturbed.


This one is very popular construction material like foam block or aerated concrete. A partition made of foam block is made much faster, unlike brick. Standard size one block is 300×600 mm. As for the thickness, here big choice. As a rule, blocks with a thickness of 75, 100 and 150 mm are chosen for the construction of partitions.

Depending on the thickness of the foam block, the price will vary. Therefore, to calculate your budget, think about this nuance in advance.

The process of manufacturing a partition from aerated concrete has several successive stages, compliance with which will help you complete all the work yourself.

Marking

Just as with brickwork, the floor and walls should be prepared. Next, mark the doorway and pull the cord. In accordance with the markings without mortar, lay out the first row and, if necessary, cut the block to size. Afterwards, you remove the blocks and waterproof the masonry site.

You can cut foam blocks with a grinder or a hacksaw. If these tools are not available, a regular hacksaw will do.


Special glue is used for laying gas blocks. The glue is mixed using an electric drill with a mixer attachment. Glue mixture Apply a layer of 3 mm to the blocks. Next, install the block and lightly tap it. Be sure to check the vertical/horizontal level. For better strength, move the block 1/2 and start the second row of masonry. When connecting the partition to the wall, perform the dressing, just as in the case of brickwork. To do this, make holes in the wall up to 5 cm, and place the blocks directly on them. This dressing can be done every 4-5 rows.

Before laying the last row, lay out reinforcement Ø1.6 cm along the entire length of the partition. On top of it is a layer of glue and the last row of blocks to the ceiling. This will serve as a kind of armored belt.


Before plastering, carry out all necessary communications. Next, install the beacons and perform plastering. As a solution, you can use the same mixture as for masonry. When the plaster has dried, the surface is puttied and painted or covered with decorative tiles.

By observing this simple diagram, you won't have any special problems. Please note the following useful tips:

  • When buying blocks, pay attention to the quality of the product. The smoother they are, the easier it will be to process them.
  • The density of the blocks does not matter. The size of the blocks depends on the specific room.
  • It is better to buy those blocks whose production is based on cutting.
  • To increase the density of the masonry, wet the blocks before laying.
  • To avoid a vertical seam, offset each row by 1/2 block.
  • Leave a small gap between the partition and the wall and fill it with foam.

Glass partition


For beginners, installation glass partition no easy task. If you decide to use glass blocks, then their installation is carried out using mortar or liquid nails. Glass partitions are also installed in modular cells.

If you decide to lay a glass partition according to the principle of bricklaying, then the work looks like this:

  1. Clean the base of the floor from dirt, dust and debris. Level the floor and, if necessary, perform a small screed.
  2. Lay out the first row of glass blocks strictly according to the level. To ensure that the seams are the same, place a plastic cross in each seam.
  3. Reinforce the masonry vertically and horizontally, every 2 rows, with iron rods Ø6 mm.

As for the method of installing a glass partition in cellular grilles, everything is much simpler here. Cells can be made of wood, MDF and plastic. They are attached to the ceiling, wall and floor. The blocks themselves are installed on a sealant, the base of which should be rubber.

So we've looked at possible options making a partition between the steam room and the washing room. If you have carried out such work, then share your experience with our readers by leaving comments at the end of this article.

Video

From the video provided, you can learn about some details of the finishing of the steam room: